Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 935 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #28021 of 28035 Old 04-16-2020, 05:23 AM
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One problem with such devices is the sources and brands and models seem to change every several months, so by the time anyone finds and announces a model that works well and is reasonably priced, it is no longer available.

Genuine HD via ATSC and BUD satellite DVB.
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post #28022 of 28035 Old 04-16-2020, 03:03 PM
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While you could purchase an HDMI to composite/S-video converter and use your Maggy, the quality would be quite poor and you'd have to mess around with the HDMI switcher. I tried such an arrangement for a short while but ultimately decided on an AverMedia HDMI recorder, HDMI splitter and a USB HDD. The AverMedia 130 was around $100 new(currently $130 off Amazon) but I purchased an open box for about $60. The 4x HDMI splitter ran me about $20 and I already had a USB HDD, otherwise they start around $60 for a 2TB model, enough to record hours and hours of HD. So while you could purchase an HDMI to S-video/composite converter(around $30) and an HDMI switcher(around $20) or better yet an HDMI splitter(again around $20) the picture quality will be nothing like you see on your screen. The AverMedia recorder is full HD and what you record is basically what you see.

So what I do to both watch and record HD is:
HDMI output of what I want to record to the 4x HDMI splitter input.
Then take one of the HDMI outputs to my Avermedia 130 and the other to my TV(although this may not be needed if your running short on HDMI inputs on your TV).
Then take the HDMI output of the AverMedia to my TV. The AverMedia has a "live" setting that again the input is the same quality as the output, also the Avermedia doesn't have to be ON to watch, when OFF the input and output are linked, of course the AverMedia has to be ON to watch recordings.
The AverMedia has 3 quality (compression) settings, I use the lowest quality or highest compression and it looks just fine to me. The Avermedia records in either 720p or 1080i, I set my output device to 720p to get more hours on the HDD(smaller file size) and again the picture quality is just fine, worlds better than a DVDR.
You can edit on the AverMedia but it's quite slow and somewhat tedious, I don't really do it. It's remote is quite tiny but has all the functions you'd probably need. One thing I don't like is while recording you don't have any OSDs and as the 130 also doesn't have a display, your kind of recording in the blind, you just have to know how long you've recorded for if you care but when playing back you have full OSDs. Note the AverMedia does have a red LED that flashes when recording or solid when not recording, amber when plugged in but off. Playback is best with the AverMedia but you can also unplug the USB HDD and hook it directly to your PC and use a program such as VLC or better yet a media box, I have a WD TV Live box that plays the HDD just fine and actually has a nicer(larger) remote than the AverMedia.
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post #28023 of 28035 Old 04-17-2020, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post
While you could purchase an HDMI to composite/S-video converter and use your Maggy, the quality would be quite poor and you'd have to mess around with the HDMI switcher. I tried such an arrangement for a short while but ultimately decided on an AverMedia HDMI recorder, HDMI splitter and a USB HDD. The AverMedia 130 was around $100 new(currently $130 off Amazon) but I purchased an open box for about $60. The 4x HDMI splitter ran me about $20 and I already had a USB HDD, otherwise they start around $60 for a 2TB model, enough to record hours and hours of HD. So while you could purchase an HDMI to S-video/composite converter(around $30) and an HDMI switcher(around $20) or better yet an HDMI splitter(again around $20) the picture quality will be nothing like you see on your screen. The AverMedia recorder is full HD and what you record is basically what you see.

So what I do to both watch and record HD is:
HDMI output of what I want to record to the 4x HDMI splitter input.
Then take one of the HDMI outputs to my Avermedia 130 and the other to my TV(although this may not be needed if your running short on HDMI inputs on your TV).
Then take the HDMI output of the AverMedia to my TV. The AverMedia has a "live" setting that again the input is the same quality as the output, also the Avermedia doesn't have to be ON to watch, when OFF the input and output are linked, of course the AverMedia has to be ON to watch recordings.
The AverMedia has 3 quality (compression) settings, I use the lowest quality or highest compression and it looks just fine to me. The Avermedia records in either 720p or 1080i, I set my output device to 720p to get more hours on the HDD(smaller file size) and again the picture quality is just fine, worlds better than a DVDR.
You can edit on the AverMedia but it's quite slow and somewhat tedious, I don't really do it. It's remote is quite tiny but has all the functions you'd probably need. One thing I don't like is while recording you don't have any OSDs and as the 130 also doesn't have a display, your kind of recording in the blind, you just have to know how long you've recorded for if you care but when playing back you have full OSDs. Note the AverMedia does have a red LED that flashes when recording or solid when not recording, amber when plugged in but off. Playback is best with the AverMedia but you can also unplug the USB HDD and hook it directly to your PC and use a program such as VLC or better yet a media box, I have a WD TV Live box that plays the HDD just fine and actually has a nicer(larger) remote than the AverMedia.

Thanks jjeff for the very thorough and helpful answer. It looks like I have some work to do!
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post #28024 of 28035 Old 04-17-2020, 06:30 AM
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Originally Posted by abfantom View Post
Thanks jjeff for the very thorough and helpful answer. It looks like I have some work to do!
I hope what I said wasn't too confusing or seem difficult. Basically the AverMedia(and USB HDD) replaces the Magnavox and the HDMI splitter is used to allow you to record whatever you want, CP'd or not
If using your Maggy and HDMI to composite converter, the converter will also allow you to record whatever you want, CP'd or not. Note some converters and HDMI splitters for that matter, won't do what you want so make sure to read the description and avoid ones that say H-D-C-P compliant.
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post #28025 of 28035 Old 04-21-2020, 07:23 PM
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For a while just now, I either was, or still am, getting WFSU (38%) better than WFLA (0), WTSP (0), WCLF (0), WTOG (0), WFTT (0), WXPX (0).

Genuine HD via ATSC and BUD satellite DVB.
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post #28026 of 28035 Old 05-02-2020, 10:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jjeff View Post
While you could purchase an HDMI to composite/S-video converter and use your Maggy, the quality would be quite poor and you'd have to mess around with the HDMI switcher. I tried such an arrangement for a short while but ultimately decided on an AverMedia HDMI recorder, HDMI splitter and a USB HDD. The AverMedia 130 was around $100 new(currently $130 off Amazon) but I purchased an open box for about $60. The 4x HDMI splitter ran me about $20 and I already had a USB HDD, otherwise they start around $60 for a 2TB model, enough to record hours and hours of HD. So while you could purchase an HDMI to S-video/composite converter(around $30) and an HDMI switcher(around $20) or better yet an HDMI splitter(again around $20) the picture quality will be nothing like you see on your screen. The AverMedia recorder is full HD and what you record is basically what you see.

So what I do to both watch and record HD is:
HDMI output of what I want to record to the 4x HDMI splitter input.
Then take one of the HDMI outputs to my Avermedia 130 and the other to my TV(although this may not be needed if your running short on HDMI inputs on your TV).
Then take the HDMI output of the AverMedia to my TV. The AverMedia has a "live" setting that again the input is the same quality as the output, also the Avermedia doesn't have to be ON to watch, when OFF the input and output are linked, of course the AverMedia has to be ON to watch recordings.
The AverMedia has 3 quality (compression) settings, I use the lowest quality or highest compression and it looks just fine to me. The Avermedia records in either 720p or 1080i, I set my output device to 720p to get more hours on the HDD(smaller file size) and again the picture quality is just fine, worlds better than a DVDR.
You can edit on the AverMedia but it's quite slow and somewhat tedious, I don't really do it. It's remote is quite tiny but has all the functions you'd probably need. One thing I don't like is while recording you don't have any OSDs and as the 130 also doesn't have a display, your kind of recording in the blind, you just have to know how long you've recorded for if you care but when playing back you have full OSDs. Note the AverMedia does have a red LED that flashes when recording or solid when not recording, amber when plugged in but off. Playback is best with the AverMedia but you can also unplug the USB HDD and hook it directly to your PC and use a program such as VLC or better yet a media box, I have a WD TV Live box that plays the HDD just fine and actually has a nicer(larger) remote than the AverMedia.
Would this apply to HDMI out of a Blue Ray player?
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post #28027 of 28035 Old 05-08-2020, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
These are to enable your TV to have more HDMI inputs than the number of inputs on the TV itself. Some switch automatically to whichever source is turned on. Examples of various switches:With a two-way HDMI splitter, the FIOS could feed the TV and the Mag at the same time. The Mag wouldn't need to be operational to just watch FIOS TV, but would be available for recording programs that don't have an anti-record component incorporated.

There are many ways to wire up multiple components. Yours is somewhat unusual in that cable company boxes typically disable analog video output (RCA plugs) whenever an HDMI TV is connected. You're lucky to have FIOS as an option. Most people don't.

If your TV is like most recently made TVs, it only has one composite input for use with RCA plugs, then this type of device would enable more than one, like an HDMI switch above, e.g. for your Go-DVD and a VHS VCR and a Betamax VCR: https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16815196042

Without an exhaustive list of your needs, it's not easy to be too specific.
Thanks for the info. The hubster and I agree that we are not smart enough to handle this, so we are shelving the project for now. But I'm saving the info in your messages for future reference, in case we're feeling reckless.
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post #28028 of 28035 Old 05-22-2020, 02:20 PM
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Not much recent activity in this thread of late, so here is some (unhappy) news -- the Magnavox support website no longer carries any webpages for their DVRs, and the main support page (where you input the model # to search) simply has the search box and the following statement:


Please be advised that this page provides only support for products purchased AFTER 2008.


Guess us regular users of this thread are even more reliant than ever on the wizards here, particularly as the Maggie support folks were pitiful anyway.
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post #28029 of 28035 Old 05-22-2020, 02:50 PM
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Not much recent activity in this thread of late, so here is some (unhappy) news -- the Magnavox support website no longer carries any webpages for their DVRs, and the main support page (where you input the model # to search) simply has the search box and the following statement:


Please be advised that this page provides only support for products purchased AFTER 2008.


Guess us regular users of this thread are even more reliant than ever on the wizards here, particularly as the Maggie support folks were pitiful anyway.
Well I moved on to a HD HomeRun Prime, Plex, and soon I'm getting a HD HomeRun Quattro with 4k OTA support just to cover all the options. Everything gets edited down and saved on big drives on the network and pc. Plex plays everything and if I need a disk I can burn one as a blu ray or full ULHD 4K disk.
I had a lot of fun dealing with the early versions and adding bigger drives and things keep moving on.
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post #28030 of 28035 Old 05-22-2020, 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jhvance View Post
Not much recent activity in this thread of late, so here is some (unhappy) news -- the Magnavox support website no longer carries any webpages for their DVRs, and the main support page (where you input the model # to search) simply has the search box and the following statement:


Please be advised that this page provides only support for products purchased AFTER 2008.


Guess us regular users of this thread are even more reliant than ever on the wizards here, particularly as the Maggie support folks were pitiful anyway.

I was about to post to say, hey! My Philips/Maggies are newer than that! Then I checked out my join date here, and what do you know - 2007. But on the other hand, I don't think I realized Magnavox had a support website. I got all my support here. Knock on wood they are still going strong. Works for me.
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post #28031 of 28035 Old 05-22-2020, 02:59 PM
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Mine's still chugging along, too. I've never even visited the Philips / Magnavox site.
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post #28032 of 28035 Old 05-23-2020, 10:58 AM
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I was about to post to say, hey! My Philips/Maggies are newer than that! Then I checked out my join date here, and what do you know - 2007. But on the other hand, I don't think I realized Magnavox had a support website. I got all my support here. Knock on wood they are still going strong. Works for me.
I've downloaded firmware through the Maggie site for both of my DVR units, the 537 model and an 867, that generally was linked to a Funai website source. I hadn't gone to the Maggie site for quite awhile as it was pretty useless otherwise, but am at wit's end on a problem so tried to go there for potential assistance.


I have not gotten a response from anyone on a question I posed in the 867 thread regarding specific function/outcome of pushing the "reset" button located on the back of that unit. I'm in a type of 'Catch-22' situation with a new/replacement remote, so I thought I'd try to initiate a technical chat and see if they could provide an answer on what type of "reset" toggling that button would produce. There's not even a "chat" option any longer, it seems -- you must input the model # first for the website to offer the option, and since it no longer recognizes even the later-year model, I'm S.O.L.

Last edited by jhvance; 05-23-2020 at 11:00 AM. Reason: punctuation/clarity
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post #28033 of 28035 Old 05-23-2020, 12:41 PM
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I think the reset button is just a circuit breaker.
Are you looking to do a soft or hard reset, instructions are here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/106-d...01.html#Replug
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post #28034 of 28035 Old 05-24-2020, 03:44 PM
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2160 hdd to dvd

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Moved from separate thread.
Quote:Originally Posted by eddyq

Is there a way to divide a title using the normal playback screen? What I want to do is to input the time offset of where to split. The "Title Dividing" menu method does not seem to allow that.


No, you have to use the Edit > Divide menu.
First time trying to record jvc camcorder recordings onto the 2160 Hard drive onto DVD's
Because I don't know where I am at with what I have recorded from same mini cassetes over time, I just plan to record the jvc camcorder tapes all over again (they are out of date order), and then title them/(dates and subject) first and then determine the chronological order after playing them out using pencil and paper.


Then since they are all in different segments on the HDD, am I able to burn the first segment"A" to DVD, leave the DVD "open", move over to another title, burn that next chronologically ordered segment "B", revert back to previous title, burn out segment "C" and continue in that process.

Problem began when I recorded some of the tapes onto VCR cassettes, (2009) , and then re-used the cassette for the part that I already saved to VCR cassettes (Those VCR recordings are all on the HDD, and I am yet to title those).
I could begin here and paper and pencil everything I have, and then when I record the missing pieces that I've never taken off the mini cassettes.
or plan A is just to record EVERYTHING that is on all the mini tapes, and slice in the parts that were written over on the mini tapes (the stuff on the VCR recorded to HDD on other titles)

Long story short is can you burn from 1 title part of it, then burn from another title, and continue rotating until complete.
I know I will need to use the right kind of media and never finalize the dvd until the process is completely done
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post #28035 of 28035 Old 05-25-2020, 02:34 PM
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Quote:
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I think the reset button is just a circuit breaker.
Are you looking to do a soft or hard reset, instructions are here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/106-d...01.html#Replug
Thanks -- I'm actually looking for information in association with an 867 -- my 537 is working just fine. The 867 and its remote (a replacement of the original) were set to use channel 2 (so as not to conflict with the 537 remote on channel 1), but had suffered another water spill which farkled it (like the same failure had for the original) -- got another exact replacement (proper p/n and Magnavox-branded) from the same online vendor and simply cannot get the two in sync as the unit insists the remote is sending its signal in channel 1. So, given that there is no way to reach the UI through front-panel buttons, that rear-panel "reset" button might be an option -- but only if it's a "soft" one that won't reformat the HDD but will reset all of the UI settings to default.
There was a reply today on the 867 forum from one of its wizards with a link to its support page in which he confirmed the Maggie site's search function appears not to be working properly, so when I have time to wrestle with the official online chat service I'll see if they can provide a definitive answer.
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