Conflicting Ideals a Sunroom/Home Theater! - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 8 Old 11-01-2010, 05:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey folks!

I'm smack dab in the middle of a very ambitious project that I've nicknamed "Quadomated" to build a passive solar smart automated home for me, a ski lift engineer who after breaking his neck in a skiing accident is paralyzed throughout the majority of my body. I've got a very cool house and room in construction that I have planned for all sorts of things, but am having a tough time figuring out how to put all the conflicting themes (i.e. a sunroom and home theater) together.

The centerpiece of this project and where I'll spend all my days is a sunroom/techno-home theater that is a wide open 24 x 24 foot room with cathedral ceilings and lots of windows. My plan is to have my computer outfitted with three 27 inch monitors, a few couches, poker tables, and a gigantic front projection screen. I've already purchased the projector, a Samsung SP-800B, for a steal off of eBay and am now trying to make heads or tails of where I'll place the projector screen and dangle the projector.

Now onto the extreme challenges. I live up in the supercold Northern Maine and due to my disability don't managed so well at regulating my body temperature. That's why all the windows to hopefully bring in lots of heat/light and make me feel like I'm not cooped up all winter long. But technology is my game and what makes me feel alive so I must make this room's setup kick the ole rear.

Initially my plan was to have my drywall/painter spray on a superclean 120+ inch silver fire mix onto the western wall between the two windows you see below,



but the more I thought about this the more foolish it seemed to have the couch and main sitting area facing away from the sunshine, all those windows, and the beautiful view. Then I started thinking about having a motorized screen drop down from the ceiling in front of the three big picture windows below.



I'm kind of stuck on this idea now, but can't handle how much the Da-lite high-power motorized screens cost, think I could probably do better with paint, and would really prefer keeping some sort of DIYing into the mix.

I've got a clean slate here guys, any idea on where I should place my projection screen and how I can get the best performance for the fewest bucks. I only paid $900 for my Sammy projector, so it's really tough to swallow spending much more than that on my screen. I'd love to have my couches facing the windows and yes, I've got motorized blinds, but it'll obviously be pretty tough to get rid of the ambient light with all of these windows.

To help you all orientate yourselves with the room/this project I've included a floorplan and a basic 3-D rendering of the room.





Thanks a bunch! I hope someone here has some incredible ideas because I'm definitely stuck in the mud!

http://www.quadomated.com/
I am the Quad in Quadomated.   Come read about life and technology through the eyes of a quadriplegic.

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post #2 of 8 Old 11-01-2010, 08:19 PM
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Well you've gone and done did what some are apt to wrongly do....purchase a PJ at what you determine to be a "steal" and by doing so you've stolen away all the potential to realize the project you desire. Ya bought a Pony to pull a Conestoga Wagon across the Plains. Well hang onto yer Scalp 'cause the Indians are plannin' an ambush!

Bluntly put...there just ain't no way possible that Sammy is going to do the job for you in your preferred location, the size screen you want...and under anything remotely like the light that will be present. It's far to week in the Lumen dept.

It won't matter one teeny bit if you go with a Dalite HP, that room, will destroy the image on that type of screen.

First off you had a better idea about locating the Screen between the smaller windows...that is if you mute the light coming into the opposite window wall. A 110" SF 3.0 with the sammy placed at it's closest possible throw (14') would deliver 17 ft Lamberts. A 129"er would top out at 14 fls...but that figure is only enough for controlled, sensible low level ambient light. Not a unrestrained vista to the outside world (...probably a "south facing window wall...right? .

If I sound a bit bitter, it because I lament the fact you jumped on what you thought was a good deal when it was wholly unsuitable for your purpose. Even had it been a dedicated theater, 'ain't no way that spending just $300.00 more for a new Epson 8350 w/2000 lumens (...that's 2x the sammy's...) and 50,000 :1 Dynamic Contrast (...to the sammy's 10,000:1 ...) would not have been worth every nickle extra spent. This is so crazily true because of the Room's own limitations it places on you...well that and your own design criteria. The differences between DLP and LCD perceived Contrast levels don't even enter into the "picture". It's all about Lumen Horsepower, Pardner......or is it Pilgrim?

By direct comparison, the 8350 would provide 27 Fls at 12' throw & 110" and
22 Fls at 13' throw & 120"

That's a huge disparity that when combined with the better contrast at brighter lumen output the 8350 has going for it...you should be weeping and gnashing your teeth in the Biblical sense. I'm talkin' Sack Cloth & Ashes lamentation.

If it was such a steal, hang it out on the Forum Classifieds and find another Buyer. Get the Epson 8350...and then we can talk some serious business that has the potential to please you. If finding that old Girl a new Lover is not possible or to be considered, scale back your screen size (100"), go with a Silver Fire 2.0 screen (...no retractable that will come close exists for under $1600.00....) or if you want a retractable screen over the Window area, get a "El Cheapo" and spray it with SF 2.0

The PJ MUST absolutely be mounted within 6" of it's closest possible Throw distance for the size screen selected. Your rendering does not show the Decor Beams, but they themselves will also have something to say about whatever plans there are to consider. Too bad they could not have been placed 1/2 the way up to the Ceiling's peak. At thier current locations evenly spaced at 6' apart, any Ceiling Mount option will have to place the PJ below the bottom Beam level by at least the height of the Lens assembly. That will restrict the top of any screen to that same height, and believe me when I tell ya, your gonna need to have the screen up as high as possible.

To that effect....mount the Screen as high on that Window wall as possible. That's a Big Room and sitting back far enough to see it without undue head tilting should be easy enough.

It will be interesting to read your response to all the "Balloon Popping" and sobering "reality-speak" above. Will your Hair ever grow back? Who can say? Just remember...it's in both our best interest to make whatever you attempt work "Mo Bedder" the first time around that you really can expect. You'll be happiest...and I'll not feel like I'm helplessly hoping that things could have been so much different.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
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post #3 of 8 Old 11-02-2010, 06:19 AM - Thread Starter
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I must profess to having my feelings a bit hurt, and coming back to your message like a dog with its tail between its legs, but then starting to wonder oh what do you have against my beautiful new friend the Sammy and where do you come up with your numbers that make it so week.

I realize I may have put the cart (or Conestoga wagon) in front of the horse, but getting a $10,000 projector (that seems strongly reviewed) for just a small fraction seems like a great idea, not a bad one. So how is it other than lumens that the Epson will kick it all over the court? I mean there must be some reason for the extra price tag and humongous optics? And the very low ft lambert numbers, where do these come from? When I multiply the 1000 lumen output of the Samsung by a 1.3 gain and then divide this by the 42.5 ft.² of a 120 inch screen I get 30 ft lamberts not under 16. What am I missing here?

Do I dare even asking these questions from the DIY Granddaddy MM… not sure if my feelings can handle another bout!

But I do appreciate your help, experience, and thoughtful consideration. I am a complete newbie, going after the dream room trying to make it right, but obviously stumbling like a drunk sailor along the way. I want a room with two very conflicting ideals and understand that some sacrifices will obviously be made along the way. Does this mean the Samsung I'm so enjoying projected on my bedroom wall must go to some other welcome hands… well I hope not! But if there is no way to satisfactorily deal with its lower light output and a very bright room, well maybe I can deal with this.

How does it change things if I told you I'd only be watching movies late in the night, when the southern sun is beneath the horizon? This room is all about making a beautiful shiny place that will rise my spirits throughout the day/night. If that means I have to limit my movie viewing to the nighttime hours that should be easy with a midsized LCD placed on one of the other walls to take care of daytime duties.

I'm still preoccupied with wanting my screen to drop down in front of the big windows. Would an el-cheapo Monoprice recessed ceiling screen coated with SF 2.0/3.0 possibly fit the bill?

I'm willing to work with you here, but also not ready (yet) to throw in the towel on what I’ve already got. As for the decorative wood beams… they're not structural and my builders are quite accomplished with the saws all if you know what I mean. They can be hacked/moved to wherever we'd like.

I appreciate all your help and wisdom and my hair grows back quickly.
-Mike

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post #4 of 8 Old 11-02-2010, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Chassmain View Post

I must profess to having my feelings a bit hurt, and coming back to your message like a dog with its tail between its legs, but then starting to wonder oh what do you have against my beautiful new friend the Sammy and where do you come up with your numbers that make it so week.

Ya misspelled "weak". Then again...so did I

I have some small degree of experience in such matters that I'll not elaborate on...but my figures come from readily accessible Tables and Graphic assists that incorporate the specifications of virtually every PJ on the Planet, and extrapolate that data with the variables one inserts to come up with real figures that are mostly quite accurate and help determine to a very close and real extent what one can...and should not expect....

Quote:


I realize I may have put the cart (or Conestoga wagon) in front of the horse, but getting a $10,000 projector (that seems strongly reviewed) for just a small fraction seems like a great idea, not a bad one. So how is it other than lumens that the Epson will kick it all over the court? I mean there must be some reason for the extra price tag and humongous optics? And the very low ft lambert numbers, where do these come from? When I multiply the 1000 lumen output of the Samsung by a 1.3 gain and then divide this by the 42.5 ft.² of a 120 inch screen I get 30 ft lamberts not under 16. What am I missing here?

Projector Central has this Screen calculator:
http://www.projectorcentral.com/Sams...ulator-pro.htm

The link provided will take you directly to a listing for the Sammy's specifications.....and limitations.

You figures do not include the attenuation that placing the PJ any further back that it's absolute closest throw can / will provide.

Also, a Screen that is not capable of maintaining decent contrast will...even at 1.3 gain, reflect all other ambient/directional light just as well as...or better than the PJ's own light production, depending upon the intensity of such extraneous lighting.

Quote:


Do I dare even asking these questions from the DIY Granddaddy MM… not sure if my feelings can handle another bout!

Shur ya can ! After all, it's not intended to chase ya away...but to help you improve your end results...if possible. Things are already lookin "Mo Bedder" from what I read below.

Quote:


But I do appreciate your help, experience, and thoughtful consideration. I am a complete newbie, going after the dream room trying to make it right, but obviously stumbling like a drunk sailor along the way. I want a room with two very conflicting ideals and understand that some sacrifices will obviously be made along the way. Does this mean the Samsung I'm so enjoying projected on my bedroom wall must go to some other welcome hands… well I hope not! But if there is no way to satisfactorily deal with its lower light output and a very bright room, well maybe I can deal with this.

You can make it work under the right conditions...it's a good machine. It simply isn't suited for a Sun Room environment if loads of Ambient Light....especially of the wavelength that Sun light consists of...is present.

Quote:


How does it change things if I told you I'd only be watching movies late in the night, when the southern sun is beneath the horizon? This room is all about making a beautiful shiny place that will rise my spirits throughout the day/night. If that means I have to limit my movie viewing to the nighttime hours that should be easy with a midsized LCD placed on one of the other walls to take care of daytime duties.

That make all the difference in the world! And had that been related earlier...much of my previous posting would have never saw the light. (...that's so bad....)

Quote:


I'm still preoccupied with wanting my screen to drop down in front of the big windows. Would an el-cheapo Monoprice recessed ceiling screen coated with SF 2.0/3.0 possibly fit the bill?

Absolutely...and the 3.0 version would allow you to have a fair amount of properly directed Lighting on as well.

I might suggest however that a recessed enclosure be build for a normal Screen casing, as you might not have a recessed Screen available before you must drywall the Ceiling.

Doing a search for "Monoprice Recessed Projection Screen" turned up info on Monoprice's Web Site about a 120"er, but it's currently not available. Only a "Notify Me" thingee to click on.

If you can do so, frame out an area at least 120" x 10" and out 6" from the Window wall to allow for the depth of any Curtain Treatments. Then, even if Drywall must be hung prior to the Screen's arrival, you still will have a recess you can mount the Screen into, then piece in drywall and finish everything out to spec. Hey...don't forget to wire up a 110ac outlet on the Left side top of any such enclosure.

But I gotta ask...your rendering and photos don't show there being a Flat Ceiling...only a Roof-line Ceiling w/Beams? You'd have to construct at least a 12" deep Soffit over those windows to contain any retractable enclosure.

Ya know though....that might not be so bad an idea because the Build Out could also contain your Drapery Mechanisms....if such will exist.

Quote:


I'm willing to work with you here, but also not ready (yet) to throw in the towel on what I’ve already got. As for the decorative wood beams… they're not structural and my builders are quite accomplished with the saws all if you know what I mean. They can be hacked/moved to wherever we'd like.

Well...creating a adjusted Rise on the beam closest to the Screen would help...but still only allow you a 12' throw and that can only provide you a 98" diagonal image. What really needs to be done is to create a small "Coffer" in the center of the room...something that will raise the center span of the Beams...from say 4' to 6' out from the walls...about 2'. This can be as simple a a continuation of the Beams sloping upward at 45 or less degrees into the center up to a 2' higher area, creating a broad "raised beam area" down the center of the room. Actually, that will increase the perception of space in that big room...and give you more surface area that is not looming overhead by the intrusion of those horizontal beams.

Quote:


I appreciate all your help and wisdom and my hair grows back quickly.
-Mike

Good to know! I do like the premise behind your Room. One of the abiding reasons I created ambient light Screens was so they could offer "The BIG Picture Show" in rooms not usually...if ever...considered appropriate for such.

In your case, the limitations of the Sammy can indeed be mitigated by effective room design and obviously, some judicious Light control.

Next up....lighting placement and directionality. Use 4" Spot Cans w/Eyeball" covers for any Ceiling lights that are anywhere near the Screen wall.

Wash the side walls with light using "Eyelid" type covers. Do those things and you'll have the ability to up your lighting levels without drastically affecting your image quality. Put 'em all on Dimmers, with the Forward Most lights on a separate Dimmer circuit and you'll have it goin' on.

Check again on PC's Calculator. a 120" screen w/PJ set at 15' 2" distance "lens to screen" will generate 15 fls. You need at least 2"-4" leeway from the closest possible throw distance. You'll also need a Drop Pole oriented Ceiling Mount. I'd suggest framing in a 12" x 12" x 6" deep at center Box at the appropriate "Centered" ceiling location to accommodate the ceiling Mounting Plate. You cannot place the Sammy off center even a couple inches because it does not have Horizontal Lens Shift. Thank your Stars it does have Vertical Lens Shift...a rarity for most DLPs and something that does at least reflect well on the Sammy's design criteria.

When / if you decide on using a Retractable, and it comes to painting it...we can easily enough get you through that part with no problems. meanwhile, crack down on the decision making as far as the other suggestions provided that can allow you the use of the Sammy.

I'm pullin' fer ya....not pushin' ya toward the edge of a Cliff. If you fall after I help...I fall just as far...but hit the bottom with an even bigger "SPAT". .


BTW, a way back in 1980 I installed a 14 room A/V system in the Worlds first wholly Passive / Active Solar Home...the Solarius II, in Tampa, FL. It was built without any connection at all to "The Grid". What was funny though was that with all the battery operated DC appliances, and the Hyper Efficient A/C system, everything worked great, and the Amperage Use meters acted perfectly normal....that is until we switched on the Audio system (Harmon Kardon Rack System) and the Needles on the Analog Meters went berserk! Eventually they wised up and put the Home on "The Grid" to sell back surplus power, but the disparity between the power use of the Audio System and the rest of the Home always remained a sticky issue.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
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post #5 of 8 Old 11-02-2010, 05:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Aww shucks! My hair didn't get whacked down so wickedly with the last post.

I thought my quick back of the envelope calculation of the ft. lamberts seemed a bit too simplistic, but without the tables and graphics you speak of I had to stick with what I knew and could do with a calculator. Thank you for sending me to Projector Central. Never knew about the place and have already found their slide rule calculator extremely handy. Looks like as my decorative trusses sit the ideal position for my projector is almost smack dab in the middle of where the existing trusses lie.

Hmm Looks like we may have to do some cutting and moving after all! I'll talk to my builders and see how much they whine about your suggestions to raise the center span of the beams and create a broad beam area running down the center of the room. I like the thought of how this would look in my mind, and if only I could figure out how to draw it in Chief Architect I would redo the renderings with the decorative beams in place. That is after all why they're not there. I tried, and tried, but couldn't figure out how to draw in those foolish wood trusses.

Any who, met with the contractor's this afternoon and they're very on board with building an 8-12" soffit right above the window headers. What they have in mind is to frame out and extend this wall above the windows an additional 12" so that the drywall for this section of the gable extends out and like you said leaves a place for the screen to drop down and any window treatments to slide.

The 120" monoprice recessed ceiling screen you mentioned is the one I have in mind, but yes it's not exactly ready. These guys that are building for me are really quite handy. Would it make sense to use a regular old electric screen (that's also a lot cheaper) and let them blend it in with the drywall. Or even better, could I save myself a few extra bucks by using one of my Somfy roller shade motors.

I've got the six below just ready for action.





My only concern with using these is the unsightly waves and ripples that a non-manufactured solution might make. Could I just ensure that I use a large enough tube and the right material that this isn't a concern? Also, what happens to the SF 2.0/3.0 paint treatment when it is rolled up on a tube. Are there any issues with it flaking and coming apart.

I'm very intrigued by these lighting suggestions. So far all the lighting is planned to be on UPB dimmers controllable by my home automation system, the keypads/touchscreens throughout the house, and my trustee web-enabled cell phone. I'm planning on a couple scenes like let the light in, block out the glare, bright overhead, and movie time.

Any ideas on precisely which 4" eyeballs really fit the bill?

Like I said, this is really an almost blank sheet with lots of love and passion going into the project. Everything you've already provided is so appreciated Honestly I almost got giddy when I read through your suggestions and felt my mind racing with the possibilities.

The rest of the windows and a giant 8 ft sliding door were installed today. I'll take lots of pictures tomorrow so that everyone can really get a feeling for the space.

Again, this is getting so exciting and making me realize what a tremendous group frequent the AVS forums.

Thank you!

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post #6 of 8 Old 11-03-2010, 10:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chassmain View Post

Aww shucks! My hair didn't get whacked down so wickedly with the last post.

I tried hard to be more of a creative Hair Stylist than a Scalp-crazed Injun.

Quote:


I thought my quick back of the envelope calculation of the ft. lamberts seemed a bit too simplistic, but without the tables and graphics you speak of I had to stick with what I knew and could do with a calculator. Thank you for sending me to Projector Central. Never knew about the place and have already found their slide rule calculator extremely handy

It can make a veritable Expert out of a seemingly "no nothing NOOB" if one just studies it. Some don't and so being still don't ever get the hang of it.

Quote:


. Looks like as my decorative trusses sit the ideal position for my projector is almost smack dab in the middle of where the existing trusses lie.

Well of course they are...silly. Had they not have been everything would have been easier, and left open for something even more intractable to pop up to have to deal with. Steel your wool....it ain't over 'till it's over and the Movie is playing. There's the Audio for that room to consider as well.

Quote:


Hmm Looks like we may have to do some cutting and moving after all! I'll talk to my builders and see how much they whine about your suggestions to raise the center span of the beams and create a broad beam area running down the center of the room. I like the thought of how this would look in my mind, and if only I could figure out how to draw it in Chief Architect I would redo the renderings with the decorative beams in place. That is after all why they're not there. I tried, and tried, but couldn't figure out how to draw in those foolish wood trusses.

That design will give the room a lot more of a unique decorative flair, and help maintain both the look of a less confining space, and a degree of intricate Wood Beam Framing that the more simplistic Trusses do not. In fact, one could say that the original framing was a bit "Barn-ish". No offense intended of course since I myself live in a re-converted Barn Home.

Quote:


Any who, met with the contractor's this afternoon and they're very on board with building an 8-12" Soffit right above the window headers. What they have in mind is to frame out and extend this wall above the windows an additional 12" so that the drywall for this section of the gable extends out and like you said leaves a place for the screen to drop down and any window treatments to slide.

That's actually what I meant to suggest as well, although a Ledge Soffit would also allow for placing various Decor-related items at that level...either way providing what you want / need.... but the extended wall option will be the easiest to build in actuality.

Quote:


The 120" monoprice recessed ceiling screen you mentioned is the one I have in mind, but yes it's not exactly ready. These guys that are building for me are really quite handy. Would it make sense to use a regular old electric screen (that's also a lot cheaper) and let them blend it in with the drywall. Or even better, could I save myself a few extra bucks by using one of my Somfy roller shade motors.

As far as them simply building a recess for the Screen...you betcha! Then you could spend the extra on a better variety of screen called "Tab Tensioned".....a type that used a semi-rigid expandable lattice framework that stretches the Screen fabric out more tautly to eliminate edge Roll & Curling. You'd still want to paint it, but even that would become an easier do with a more firm surface to work with.

Quote:


I've got the six below just ready for action.
My only concern with using these is the unsightly waves and ripples that a non-manufactured solution might make. Could I just ensure that I use a large enough tube and the right material that this isn't a concern?

By the time all said and done is over, the effort and expense combined with a degree of uncertainty makes such a decision an iffy...if not indeed a unwise one. It certainly DOES reflect a truly ambitious DIY ideal....but from my own experience building both Manual & Motorized Horizontal Roller masking systems...it's not just difficult...it can be a Hair-pullin' experience. Let's not go back down that Road. We're so past that stage...right?

Quote:


Also, what happens to the SF 2.0/3.0 paint treatment when it is rolled up on a tube. Are there any issues with it flaking and coming apart.

Nope. The make-up of the paint, and the thinness of the coating....combined with a correct application provides a very durable surface. One that is actually more forgiving of accidents than the raw Mfg Screen material is / was. It does require that the Screen be left in a Down position for at least 2-3 days (...a week or more if the paint is roller applied but we won't go there either! ) so it can dry to a truly non-sticky, more cured state.

Quote:


I'm very intrigued by these lighting suggestions. So far all the lighting is planned to be on UPB dimmers controllable by my home automation system, the keypads/touchscreens throughout the house, and my trustee web-enabled cell phone. I'm planning on a couple scenes like let the light in, block out the glare, bright overhead, and movie time.

Any ideas on precisely which 4" eyeballs really fit the bill?

Well...being cost conscious and doing the majority of my own work in the "After Market", I use the "Old Work" variety of 4" Can Light Kit Assemblies w/Eyeball Shields that can be found at Home Depot for just $19.95 ea. They come in White or Nickle (...my favorite...) but they are as stated a "after-market build" type with no option to pre-hang during the construction Phase.

Sadly, any Pre-hang Casing never comes with the Shield, cost about 100% more, and there is the Labor involved with their being additional steps. (Electrician installs- Drywaller routs out - Electrician Finishes) Personally, I'd have them stub out the Romex at precise locations between the Framing positioned by attachment to/through a elevated-recessed Wood Bridge, and then come back and precisely cut the small holes and slip the less expensive ones into place. It's so easy, even a Caveman can do it. Hence...that's why I use 'em.

Quote:


Like I said, this is really an almost blank sheet with lots of love and passion going into the project. Everything you've already provided is so appreciated Honestly I almost got giddy when I read through your suggestions and felt my mind racing with the possibilities.

Well ya gotta know I'm glad your feeling the growth of all that new hair!
Doing this sort of thing in real life is what makes for a degree of assurance no adverse design works against the end results I hope to accomplish for someone. All too often, both on the Forum and out-n-about, the die is already cast...and things must be compensated for....not ideally designed to accommodate "The Best Possible" results. Your having an open mind and a relatively congenial schedule as far as construction...and of course an open-minded Contractor who is not a Premadonna who tosses a hissy fit at a work change order all helps thing gel out with much greater ease and assurance of a future "WOW" factor.

But.....iffin' I was you I'd just install that Sammy in a cool manner in the Bedroom (...you KNOW you want it in there anyway...) and get the Epson 8350 or the Pro 9350 and make all the more better of what is at best....even with the changes....a difficult situation. The differences in performance under Room Lighting and/or curtain masked daylight will spell the true difference as to just how much usage and livability you'll really get out of all the effort expended.

Quote:


The rest of the windows and a giant 8 ft sliding door were installed today. I'll take lots of pictures tomorrow so that everyone can really get a feeling for the space.

Again, this is getting so exciting and making me realize what a tremendous group frequent the AVS forums.

Thank you!

You got it....there is always gonna be people on AVS willing to help more than most can imagine. Such an attitude heledp shape my own, and made me consider doing what I could whenever I can. It's catching....more than a bit habit forming (ie: addictive) but it comes with a high degree of personal satisfaction to know that people can get things accomplished in a manner that goes beyond their expectations.

Yeah...I'm usin' ya for my own personal "Woopie Cushion". Live with it!

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
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post #7 of 8 Old 11-04-2010, 11:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay, okay Little bit nervous to even mention my latest epiphany, because I don't want you to be overwhelmed or sumthin, but here goes!

I've never really been so good at getting my balloon popped, especially after I've done extensive research on something (i.e. the Samsung projector) and pretty much thought you were off your rocker when you told me I should trade in my $10,000 DLP for what I thought was an el-cheapo Epson. My, what a few days of research and staring at the ole computer screen will make. I'm still giving myself a pat on the back for the super sweet deal I got on the Samsung SP-800B, but like you said, it is entirely unsuited for my project, room, and needs. What I want is lots of lumens, and from the incredible reviews, awards, yada yada it looks like the Epson projector is exactly what would fill the bill.

So yeah, I'm pretty much 98% there on listing my Samsung projector in the classifieds and back on eBay, and will hopefully take the proceeds to buy one of the new Epson LCD projectors. Now which one is the question?

I've never really been so keen on buying one of the cheaper models of anything. So here's what I venture to you Should I/is it worth the extra money to possibly step up and by the Epson 8500 UB. I also notice that along with this step up is a drop-down in lumen output from the 8350 (1600 vs 2000). What would make me happiest?

Yup, you can tell me I told you so!

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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Well of course they are...silly. Had they not have been everything would have been easier, and left open for something even more intractable to pop up to have to deal with. Steel your wool....it ain't over 'till it's over and the Movie is playing. There's the Audio for that room to consider as well.

As for the audio Hopefully you won't pop my bubble so badly on this, because I've been building up a system over the last few years and think I have it dialed in pretty well But who knows!

My audio components:

Emotiva UMC-1 Processor
Emotiva XPA-5 Amplifier (200 W RMS x 5 for Front LCR and Back Surround
Emotiva UPA-5 Amplifier (125 W RMS x 5 for Side LR and Zone 2 Output)
HTPC w/ blu-ray, ceton quad cable tuner card, etc.
JBL L890 Four-Way Floorstanding Speakers with Dual 8" (Front LR)
JBL LC1 Three-Way Center Channel with Dual 5-1/4" (Center)
JBL L830 Three-Way Bookshelf Speaker with 6" (Back LR)
Subwoofer to be determined/purchased

One thing I could definitely say is I like loud, immersive audio that pegs the SPL meter on occasion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

That design will give the room a lot more of a unique decorative flair, and help maintain both the look of a less confining space, and a degree of intricate Wood Beam Framing that the more simplistic Trusses do not. In fact, one could say that the original framing was a bit "Barn-ish". No offense intended of course since I myself live in a re-converted Barn Home.

Hey, hey, hey now! You can't forget that I'm way up in the sticks of northern Maine. I most certainly put those trusses in there because I like the looks/wanted to give it that barn perception. Mix in a little bit of modern flooring (6 x 24 inch tile) and a freeform/organic paint design from my buddy the artist and it'll hopefully be one very cool/modern looking do it all sunroom theater (is that an oxymoron!).

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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

As far as them simply building a recess for the Screen...you betcha! Then you could spend the extra on a better variety of screen called "Tab Tensioned".....a type that used a semi-rigid expandable lattice framework that stretches the Screen fabric out more tautly to eliminate edge Roll & Curling. You'd still want to paint it, but even that would become an easier do with a more firm surface to work with.

Do you think something like the Evanesce Tension or Cinetension from Elite Screens seem like the best bang for your buck tab tensioned screens? I'm wondering if I jump up to the Epson and its 2000 lumens if I can go bigger than 120 inches. Or is that indeed the sweet spot?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Nope. The make-up of the paint, and the thinness of the coating....combined with a correct application provides a very durable surface. One that is actually more forgiving of accidents than the raw Mfg Screen material is / was. It does require that the Screen be left in a Down position for at least 2-3 days (...a week or more if the paint is roller applied but we won't go there either! ) so it can dry to a truly non-sticky, more cured state.

Okay Very good, and this shouldn't be a problem at all since I won't be living in the house for at least a few months. What about performance? Is a painted tab-tensioned retractable screen provide almost as good a performance as a fixed screen?

Already my friend, all this voice-recognition talk has left me out of breath. I so appreciate all your input and the time you've taken to help educate me!

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Yeah...I'm usin' ya for my own personal "Woopie Cushion". Live with it!

You're going to start making farting noises because of me. Don't know if I should be disturbed or flattered!

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post #8 of 8 Old 11-04-2010, 12:01 PM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
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Originally Posted by Chassmain View Post


You're going to start making farting noises because of me. Don't know if I should be disturbed or flattered!

How can one appreciate something that doesn't make one percolate?

I've employed the Elite Tab Tensioned screens for exactly this same purpose. They represent the best value in such screens. They still cost appreciably more than non-tensioned screens, but as Retractable Screen sizes go up, the need for them does as well.

Size-wise, if you want bigger, that's a "Can Do" since your now able to optimally locate an appropriate Projector.

Send me detailed info on your address and such. I'll see what can be shook out as far as getting you the absolute best price for the Sammy. Ebay ain't always so good at doing that.....

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
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