The Official Silver Fire V.2 Thread. - Page 89 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #2641 of 2779 Old 01-25-2019, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay, I'll start off more aggressive with the Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 and dial it back with a respray if I feel the need.

No...you have it in reverse.....you can start out lighter and go darker....but going dark and having a darker base will result in no added gain.
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post #2642 of 2779 Old 02-21-2019, 02:08 PM
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Understood.

I'd like to save the leftover paint for future repairs if needed. Can the paint be stored after having been completely mixed?
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post #2643 of 2779 Old 02-21-2019, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Sealed...yes. For a very extended period.....although for really long periods it should be stored in a tightly closed Plastic container because of the water content.


All that needs be done after a year is slowly stir it up using a good Wand Stirring Tool.

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post #2644 of 2779 Old 02-24-2019, 11:49 AM
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I have the room wrapped and everything prepped and ready to go. Reading through the thread, I’ve found a lot of helpful information that isn’t contained in the first post.. Number of coats, spray distance, speed, and other helpful tips. Also fans and heat to decrease drying time between coats for flattening droplets while drying. But I could use some last minute confirmations.

I'm enlisting the help of someone with auto body experience using his trusty old Devilbiss FLG2 HPLV spray gun and compressed air. Of course would need between 1mm and 1.5mm needle. Would this gun be suitable or would you recommend getting an electric? If electric, are there any currently available models you'd recommend? The recommended guns in the first post are not available anymore and the most recent recommendation I could find in the thread is also no longer available.

I’ve also changed up the room a bit and seating distance is now reduced to 10ft, and 14ft projector distance on a 128” wide screen, fully darkened room with dark surfaces. Projector is RS540. Again, even with the fully darkened room, I’m wanting a darker base that the Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 would bring. And I’m okay with some minor screen irregularities. Before I begin, is there anything about this plan you’d recommend for or against?
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post #2645 of 2779 Old 02-24-2019, 02:33 PM - Thread Starter
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First off...when using a conventional Tank Fed HVLP it is imperative that the line going into the Gun (between the Tank & Gun) have both a Water & Rust Filter. Preferably, the outfit should have a Air Dryer, but that is something mostly found in Auto Body shops. You absolutely MUST avoid getting any condensation within the Tank or that builds up inside the Hose from exiting through the Gun as tiny droplets...those cause what it known as "Fish Eyes" in the paint. Small, prismatic bubbles.


The P.I.T.A. and costs involved in using conventional HVLP guns kept many a DIY from ever considering spraying for the 1st 4-5 years of the 2000s. It was only the advent of the Wagner Control Spray that changed things....and subsequent Electric HVLP Guns with smaller Needles / Nozzles made things all the more better.


The criteria for using a Tank Fed HVLP is thus:
  • Pressure Level at the Tank's outlet Valve is set to 120 psi minimum, with reset Pressure at 90 psi
  • Pressure at the Gun's Regulator is set at 40psi
  • Fluid Valve on the Gun set to almost wide Open. (...the exact setting takes some dialing in...)
  • A correct Vertical Fan Pattern using a 1.5 mm needle would be at least 10" tall
  • Row overlap should be at least 60%
  • Gun should be disassembled and rinsed with water after every 3rd coat (...assuming a rapid dry time between coats of 20 minutes max....)


Beyond all that....yeah...here is the best choice in a Multi-Purpose Electric HVLP currently available:


https://www.dipyourcar.com/collections/sprayers-and-spray-guns/products/dyc-dipsprayer




(note: This is for the OEM version of the Earlex 2901...should you be asked by the Rep at the contact number below)
Contact this Wagner/Earlex source for a 1.0 mm Needle Kit:
Part # OHVACGEM10 @ 800-328-8251 Ask for "Direct Sales"



Note: Recently the "Kit" was unavailable and you had to ask to order the parts separately. However they still amounted to the same total cost. (approx $26.00 + shipping)
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post #2646 of 2779 Old 02-24-2019, 02:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I’ve also changed up the room a bit and seating distance is now reduced to 10ft, and 14ft projector distance on a 128” wide screen, fully darkened room with dark surfaces. Projector is RS540. Again, even with the fully darkened room, I’m wanting a darker base that the Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 would bring. And I’m okay with some minor screen irregularities. Before I begin, is there anything about this plan you’d recommend for or against?

You could pre-tint the White Base Paint to "Universal Grey" (a Glidden/PPG color code# (00NN 62/000)


......and then add in however much additional Colorant you desire to reach the depth of Grey you want. My preference would be to stay entirely with the SF / BF Colorant though,as it willnever be anything but neutral in whatever amount you use.
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post #2647 of 2779 Old 02-25-2019, 05:40 AM
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Thank you so much MM. I put so much work in to this point, I want to be sure I have all ducks in a row. In an earlier post you said "With a 1.5 mm set-up, the ensuing viscosity might be sufficient", but I don't understand what this means. Assuming the viscosity instruction (milk-like steady flow through the nylon strainer) is for 1 mm, what kind of viscosity should we be looking for to suit 1.5 mm?
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post #2648 of 2779 Old 02-25-2019, 08:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you so much MM. I put so much work in to this point, I want to be sure I have all ducks in a row. In an earlier post you said "With a 1.5 mm set-up, the ensuing viscosity might be sufficient", but I don't understand what this means. Assuming the viscosity instruction (milk-like steady flow through the nylon strainer) is for 1 mm, what kind of viscosity should we be looking for to suit 1.5 mm?

What I meant was that at 1.5 mm, and using the proper spray technique, you can still get more-than acceptable results.


At 1.0 mm, things would go more slowly...and perhaps a bit less risky as far as putting up too much paint each coat, but that is what I was suggesting based on your having to use a 1.5 mm tip.

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post #2649 of 2779 Old 02-25-2019, 11:49 AM
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Great, got it. Ready to get started. Progress and pics to come!
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post #2650 of 2779 Old 02-27-2019, 02:56 AM
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It came out with light and dark patches all over, and the dark patches are bumpy. I'm not sure what happened. We did everything by the book. Is the process for spraying a white screen canvas different than Sintra or drywall? What's really interesting is the plastic sheeting that got the same spray surrounding the screen is absolutely flawless. The sprayed plastic actually looks amazing. I think I might strip the canvas and use plastic sheeting instead. It looks that good.

EDIT: Spraying plastic sheeting won't work. Doesn't stick.

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post #2651 of 2779 Old 02-28-2019, 08:35 PM
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Here's what I've realized after spraying the canvas as well as the plastic sheet, and also several large cardboard boxes, all in one go.. The substrate makes a big difference on the outcome. The cardboard and plastic turned out phenomenal while the canvas is absolutely horrid. After working with the canvas and finessing it for hours, I just don't want to use it anymore. Sanding takes forever because pressure can't be applied due to it flexing. And when it flexes, it hits the inner frame supports and causes additional problems. It's a huge PITA. I've read here that Sintra or extruded PVC comes in max 122" diagonal 16:9. Can two panels be merged together while filling in the seam for 140-148" diagonal? I'm sure it would be a deal of work to get the seam right, but anything would be better than working with this canvas.

BTW, I've lit the screen up with the projector, and aside from the aberrations, the overall effect is incredible. I went with 2.0 colorant. The black levels are much better than I ever anticipated, while also seeing a slight bit of gain in the highlights. I don't even see the need for black velvet border in the fully light-controlled room because I can't see the edge of the screen in almost every scene. And my biggest concern was completely addressed.. In mostly bright scenes with some very dark spots, the dark spots are not illuminated by the reflections on the walls from the overall screen brightness. When viewing those scenes on the matte white canvas, I could see that I was watching a screen and it took me out of the movie. Not any more. This puts me squarely in the movie just as I had the urge for. It completely fixes exactly what I felt was missing.

EDIT: After reading through the forum and this thread, I'm going with FlexiWhite. I think the smooth PVC surface will do the trick as opposed to the slightly patterned surface of the matte white screen. The paint in this condition seems to build up and exacerbate texture rather than fill in. I'm confident this will solve the issue.

Also will reduce viscosity and do away with the fan, as high viscosity and overly quick drying contribute to orange peel, which was the issue. In this freezing weather, the heated indoor air is already pretty much completely dry, plus I had the room at 85F with an industrial fan (albeit on low). Come to think of it, the sprayed cardboard tests and the plastic sheeting that turned out so well, happened to not have the fan on them. Also the surface of the screen was fabric, which absorbed the water faster than the other materials, contributing to the overly fast drying. The coats were drying in well under 5 minutes, which at the time I thought was a good thing for the goal of flattening droplets. But drying too fast is much worse.

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post #2652 of 2779 Old 03-01-2019, 07:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Here's what I've realized after spraying the canvas as well as the plastic sheet, and also several large cardboard boxes, all in one go.. The substrate makes a big difference on the outcome. The cardboard and plastic turned out phenomenal while the canvas is absolutely horrid.

Also will reduce viscosity and do away with the fan, as high viscosity and overly quick drying contribute to orange peel, which was the issue. In this freezing weather, the heated indoor air is already pretty much completely dry, plus I had the room at 85F with an industrial fan (albeit on low). Come to think of it, the sprayed cardboard tests and the plastic sheeting that turned out so well, happened to not have the fan on them. Also the surface of the screen was fabric, which absorbed the water faster than the other materials, contributing to the overly fast drying. The coats were drying in well under 5 minutes, which at the time I thought was a good thing for the goal of flattening droplets. But drying too fast is much worse.

You are right about how the paint will tend to exaggerate any texture, and Canvass has never been a suggested substrate, unless it was skimmed with something like Artist's Gesso, the same thing Artists use to smooth out their own Canvasses.

And your right about Flexi-White. It is a superb substrate for painting on...IF you use the Duster technique.
BUT....you are completely wrong about the drying issue. "Decreased Viscosity" (thinner paint) is exactly what is needed, and when Dusted, each coat delivers very small droplets that wil absolutely shrink and flatten, with each subsequent coat filling in the spaces between. The object being to get complete, even coverage using a minimum amount of paint. Bluntly put, there is no way rapid drying can create Orange Peel. That happenes in the opposite, when there is uneven drying (especially prolonged) and the absorbancy factor of the canvas combined with the looseness of the thinned paint helped create that. You might have thought the screen was dry in under 5 minutes, but that was ONLY because of the absorbancy factor of the Cloth. Beleive me when I sat that the moisture was there...just soaked in while the surface dried more quickly.

The use of a Box or Pole Fan set at 8' from the center of the Screen and set on Medium or High can ONLY help speed drying to the point that 15 minutes of such is equal to over 1 hour of the paint just setting. Now yes, the 1st 2-3 coats do dry more quickly because there is more "edge" around each droplet to let the moisture gass out. But once those droplets start piling on top of each other, the hastened drying becomes essential in getting a "Baby Butt Smooth" surface.

Here's the truth of it. As someone who often must paint screens in Homes that are unheated during construction, I use a Forced Air Propane Heater directed at the screen from as far away as I can set it. I pre-heat the Room to a point I could paint naked if I wanted to.....turn off the Heater....paint my coat, the turn on the Heater. With drying the screen in such a way, I can spray every 15 minutes. I could rush it...but that makes no sense when waiting just a little longer assures me that the surface is dry enough that the next coat will not add to any preexisting dampness.

There is no room for disputing the above. It's well proven over literally many hundreds of similar projects. Your bad experience with Canvas (Black Out Cloth can be almost as bad) is what is biasing your opinion / belief. Don't change up what is one of the defining aspects of getting a good finish. Reconsider the smooth Cardboard & Plastic areas. They DO NOT let much of any moisture soak in, and just because the plastic was around the perimeter, it was still getting plenty of air circulation across it's surface. Yet...it came out much smoother. There is your real expected result.
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post #2653 of 2779 Old 03-02-2019, 01:37 AM
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Excellent thank you! Flexi-White on the way. Can't wait to begin.
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post #2654 of 2779 Old 03-04-2019, 05:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Excellent thank you! Flexi-White on the way. Can't wait to begin.

OK and all-righty then.

Let's stay connected on this next step and make certain everything goes as it should. Questions should be asked before....never after.

If you ordered the Flexi to come on a Roll, then that will be a best case. If not, then that means stretching correctly and letting the material rest on the Frame will be best.

Here's a bit of spray technique refresher.

Spraying remains a study in the Dusting technique, and it is ALWAYS better to put up less with each coat than more...and this is especially true for the 1st 2-3 coats. Those coats might look awfully speckled, but that's a good thing since those freckles serve as "tack points" that help keep future wet freckles in place. What is also extremely important is maintaining a full 60-70% row overlap so that there is no opportunity for any area to get an uneven amount of the spray. Again, the sparse spray that is applied needs that overlap. but that overlap cannot wind up putting down a heavier coating.

You always must consider getting the top-bottom and side edges evenly coated. This means when you start at the top, fully 1/2 the height of your vertical spray pattern is above the leading edge of the top of the Frame / Flexi material. At the bottom, you finish exactly the same way.

Also,you always start each row approximately 6-8" off the side edge, and at the other end you run off the edge...drop about the height of your Fist (4-5") and then start back the other direction, Never stop, and absolutely never hesitate let alone stop and resume while your within the screen area.

Invariably, your probably going to waver a bit going across, and notice a slightly sparser area. Resist the temptation to go back and even it up. Let the next and subsequent coats even things out.

Drying......


Well you said you elevated the room temp....that's a great start, something more than most can manage to do. The Fan you use MUST be clean and free of dust bunnies.....and should be placed so that the Fan itself is at the center of the screen...top to bottom and side to side. Usually, setting the Fan at a distance equal to 1.5x the width of the screen is best, and Medium speed is best. Time-wise, if you don't have to rush things, here is a time chart to follow:


Times are from Fan-On to Fan -Off in a heated above average environment.

  • 1st coat - 10 minutes
  • 2nd coat - 10 minutes
  • 3rd -4th -5th coats - 15 minutes
  • 6th -7th -8th+ coats - 20 minutes.


Don't second guess the above timing. A fully dried coating will not absorb paint moisture enough to offset the rapid drying.

As a side note about paint texture....Orange Peel is the result of the top of applied paint drying and getting a skim before the underlying paint is fully dried, and then when more paint is applied, the underlying wet paint leeches the surface moisture through the dried surface, and the surface swells upwards. This happens in both Rolling & Spraying, and is the bane of those trying to get a smooth surface...and always it is a case where the paint was either reapplied too soon...or in some instances where in a too-cool environment the paint takes too long to dry and the surface get's the aforementioned skim but underneath it remains damp.

Just go by the mantra "Less is More" and don't rush. Follow those dictates and success is virtually assured.

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post #2655 of 2779 Old 03-04-2019, 11:38 PM
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I'm not sure exactly it's orange peel. For sure it's a rough surface pretty much like 40 grit sandpaper. And it's as hard as concrete and doesn't lend itself to sanding.

Before getting started on the Flexi-White, I'm going to cut a section of the extra material and do a test run.
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post #2656 of 2779 Old 03-05-2019, 08:39 PM
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What is the maximum water thinning percent by volume before adhesion problems become a factor?
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post #2657 of 2779 Old 03-06-2019, 07:54 AM - Thread Starter
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What is the maximum water thinning percent by volume before adhesion problems become a factor?

By my reasoning if one has a 3 quart Mix of components, 16 oz of water is the most that should be tried before actually doing a Filter drainage test and then a spray test.


Some white Base Paints such as SW or Dulux are almost "sludge-like" in viscosity, and they need to be thinned proportionately to a point the paint at least slides easily off a wooden stir stick...not "plops". and that is done BEFORE they are mixed into the overall compilation. The Metallic paints are not really viscous, and the Polyurethane goes some ways toward thinning them out in the mix. The Colorant should be pretty thin as well...almost watery...but there isn't enough of that added to make a difference in viscosity in a 3 quart mix.



Over the ensuing years, many have tried to judge low viscosity by using the Drain-Through Tool that most Electric HVLP tools come with.


Don't.


The Nylon Mesh Bag Drain-through method has been / is always the best bellwether benchmark to use.



If a 1.0 mm Needle is being used, and the Gun is set to full Pressure / full Fluid output, then the drainage through the Filter should be almost as fast as you pour it through the Filter after a slight back-up.


1.5 mm Needles can handle a slightly heavier mix....but it's not required if the Gun has adequate pressure and the Duster technique is followed. As stated before...less is more, and you can always add more water if the spray pattern is weak. But once a mix is too thin, removing excess water means doing so via open container evaporation and that takes time.


The ideal consistency should be that of thick Tomato Soup.



PM me a email address and I'll send you some videos of straining and spraying. I'd post them up but my Photo/Video Server isn't working too good....very pixlated playback.

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post #2658 of 2779 Old 03-10-2019, 07:57 PM
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PM Sent.

I need to confirm pressure at the gun should be 40 PSI. HVLP guns call for 22-29 PSI. Is the higher pressure of 40 PSI required because this application is unique?
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post #2659 of 2779 Old 03-11-2019, 07:39 AM - Thread Starter
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PM Sent.

I need to confirm pressure at the gun should be 40 PSI. HVLP guns call for 22-29 PSI. Is the higher pressure of 40 PSI required because this application is unique?

To a degree, yes. The object being to get a fine mist through the restricted Needle size of 1 mm that still allows for a vertical spray pattern of 10" - 12" tall.


The standard procedure is to set the "Kick-IN" Regulator that is located at the Pressure Tank outlet at 90-100 psi and use a Regulator at the Gun set at 40 psi.


Then you give the thinned Mix a trial spray, holding the Gun at approx.14" from the surface. You observe the pattern height and the amount of paint being sprayed out and then adjust accordingly. Obviously, if you must use a slightly larger Needle (1.5 mm) the paint can be just a wee bit heavier bodied, but you still maintain a higher pressure.



Pressure-fed HVLP Guns are in no way "automatic". They require set-up and adjustments that are not required with Electric models. You have separate knobs on the Gun itself for Fluid Feed control.....and for Air Pressure Control. Then there are the necessary Filters (Water & Rust ) and the need to use a good Hose (Rubber...not Vinyl) because the later will condense moisture, and if that occurs after the Water Filter...your back to getting Fish Eyes.


Can it be any wonder that I so readily embraced Electric HVLP guns after 2 years of hauling around a 35 gal Tank, and dealing with all the periphery items? Yeah...a big PITA...but even more so, it was extremely more difficult to justify the expense and PITA-factor to DIY'ers just to accomplish the use of thinned, advanced formula Paint mixes. Electric HVLPs made for a quantum difference in acceptance.
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post #2660 of 2779 Old 03-12-2019, 03:26 PM
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Project completed! Here's the post.
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post #2661 of 2779 Old 04-07-2019, 06:14 PM
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Hey MississippiMan, havent posted in a while, you miss me..lol..just kidding. Need some quick advise. Wanting to paint a new screen on a TWH, preferably one of a light silver shade that will give a little contrast improviement while maintaining whites.I was thinking maybe silver fire NC might be a good choice with some added upw to help reduce sparklies and maybe lightening it a bit.
It will be in a light Controled room. Would silver fire nc be okay for this or something diff? I still have my grace 3900 turbine..love that thing.
Also, I noticed the switch from the rustoleum silver back to the liquitex silver. What was the reason for this? Thanks in advance.
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post #2662 of 2779 Old 04-07-2019, 06:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by narhic_fd View Post
Hey MississippiMan, havent posted in a while, you miss me..lol..just kidding.




Quote:
Need some quick advise.





Quote:
Wanting to paint a new screen on a TWH, preferably one of a light silver shade that will give a little contrast improviement while maintaining whites.I was thinking maybe silver fire NC might be a good choice with some added upw to help reduce sparklies and maybe lightening it a bit.
It will be in a light Controled room. Would silver fire nc be okay for this or something diff? I still have my grace 3900 turbine..love that thing.
Also, I noticed the switch from the rustoleum silver back to the liquitex silver. What was the reason for this? Thanks in advance.

JKA


Kinda sorta. I do cringe a bit at all the upcoming rehash of already known / stated criteria. But in a resigned, good natured way...of course!



Listen.....SF-NC would be great. Add 15% more UPW to make yourself feel safe. Spray VERY light dusters.....VERY LIGHT only...until coverage is reached. That's it.



I don't know what your speaking of about any switch to Liquitex Sliver. You must be speaking of some one-off mix someone else went with due to expense / availability of the RustOleum.

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post #2663 of 2779 Old 04-08-2019, 02:24 PM
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Heya MississippiMan,

I last ordered a custom mix from you back in Mar '17 and the results were great. Looking to do the same this time around in a new house.
Looking to paint a living room wall that I use for projection. All other walls are white, want to have SilverFire (light silver) on this wall.
I see the formulation has probably changed since I last did this in '17, are there any updated pictures of the color of Silverfire now?
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post #2664 of 2779 Old 04-17-2019, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Janhaus View Post
Heya MississippiMan,

I last ordered a custom mix from you back in Mar '17 and the results were great. Looking to do the same this time around in a new house.
Looking to paint a living room wall that I use for projection. All other walls are white, want to have SilverFire (light silver) on this wall.
I see the formulation has probably changed since I last did this in '17, are there any updated pictures of the color of Silverfire now?

If you use the "Colorant" version, the choice of the shade of Grey is infinite....and can be entirely based upon you PJ / Room needs.


For your example, Silver Fire or Black Flame ...both with the N/C designation, would be more likely to match into your existing Decor.

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post #2665 of 2779 Old 04-23-2019, 03:47 PM
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Hi,

I have read the full thread, I am coming back to Home Theater after about 6 years out because my kids kept poking my speakers!!! So I gave up... Now they are older and I have setup my room...

I have an Epson 8350 and a budget retractable 120" white matte screen that I want to paint, I mostly watch movies, netflix & HBO... I would like to watch movies with a dimly lit room..

I have 2 questions:

1) What Silver Fire do you recommend? (I think it should be 3.0 or 4.0) I want inky blacks and good definition/resolution.

2) Is there a way to get the mix done?

Can you help me MississippiMan?

Thanks.
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post #2666 of 2779 Old 05-11-2019, 12:13 AM
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I wanted to do something similar, but the issue is I'm in Europe. Can all the paint be ordered online and sent to an FPO? I don't necessarily want to reinvent the wheel here. I went to their version of HD and obviously it's all brands of paint I've never seen before.

Lastly, is it imperative to use the sprayer? I wanted to paint the full 18' x 10' wall so I don't have to worry about aspect ratios.


This would be for a HT3550 mounted 11' away, and hopefully going for a 135" screen. The room has one large window with shutters, that can be made pitch dark. Marble on the floor...so I will need a large rug.

Currently the walls are a smooth light blue plaster...I am not sure I need to smooth it out much more, but I'll try to take a high resolution photo.
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post #2667 of 2779 Old 05-11-2019, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by big_k View Post
I wanted to do something similar, but the issue is I'm in Europe. Can all the paint be ordered online and sent to an FPO? I don't necessarily want to reinvent the wheel here. I went to their version of HD and obviously it's all brands of paint I've never seen before.

Where exactly in the EU are you? It might be easier to source the paints you need than you think between local outlets and the EU Web. The items that cannot be found can of course be shipped from Stateside jobbers, (Metallics) but the White Paint---Polyurethanes....even the Tints should be available closer to home.


Quote:
Lastly, is it imperative to use the sprayer? I wanted to paint the full 18' x 10' wall so I don't have to worry about aspect ratios.

It is required if the Formula is to be the most effective, and render the most assured results. Lots of inexpensive Electric HVLP choices over there if you know where / how to search. Otherwise, the alteration of the Formula to the point that Rolling (...carefully and with skill...) can be effected. I can help you with that, but your own results will be at least problematical.


Quote:
This would be for a HT3550 mounted 11' away, and hopefully going for a 135" screen. The room has one large window with shutters, that can be made pitch dark. Marble on the floor...so I will need a large rug.

Currently the walls are a smooth light blue plaster...I am not sure I need to smooth it out much more, but I'll try to take a high resolution photo.

With that large a screen, those light blue walls (...you didn't mention the Ceiling...) can be a discerning a factor as ambient light from a poorly shuttered Window or Doorway.


How high above the screen will the Ceiling be (room height) and how far removed off the sides are the side walls? If either or both are fairly close in, then a more agressive formula should be considered so as to suppress the deleterious effects of reflected projected light.

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post #2668 of 2779 Old 05-23-2019, 07:45 PM
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I hate to say it, this thread is too long to process however open to suggestions. I read the first page and can't make heads and tails out of it. May I ask some simple questions without spending an eternity reading this?

1. I have an HT3550, basement, light is controlled, white ceiling, mostly movies but PC browsing along with some TV watching is possible. Do I need 2.5? The projector is classified as a ST projector, it's about 13' away and my screen size (desirable) is 125-130".
2. Is most of this available at Home Depot? I also have a Michaels nearby. Where do I get this colorant stuff? Is it needed? I see a chart on the first page but not sure I understand the whole 1.0, 2.0 etc. and how it correlates to various quantities below.

Sorry guys, flame me but I am totally lost.
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post #2669 of 2779 Old 05-24-2019, 01:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by home4sale2 View Post
I hate to say it, this thread is too long to process however open to suggestions. I read the first page and can't make heads and tails out of it. May I ask some simple questions without spending an eternity reading this?

1. I have an HT3550, basement, light is controlled, white ceiling, mostly movies but PC browsing along with some TV watching is possible. Do I need 2.5? The projector is classified as a ST projector, it's about 13' away and my screen size (desirable) is 125-130".
2. Is most of this available at Home Depot? I also have a Michaels nearby. Where do I get this colorant stuff? Is it needed? I see a chart on the first page but not sure I understand the whole 1.0, 2.0 etc. and how it correlates to various quantities below.

Sorry guys, flame me but I am totally lost.



Hey! Asking questions totally validates one as having the intent and desire to learn.


The 2.5 designation is a "Version". ex: v1.0 - v1.5 - v2.0 - v2.5...........the higher the number, the newer the Formula version.



Since Silver Fire has it's basic premise in providing Ambient Light performance, and with the addition of Colorant becomes virtually infinitely adjustable in that regard, with the higher the numerical designation, the darker Grey the mix becomes, that means the more enhanced Ambient Light performance becomes. The Number represents "Ounces" Colorant designation is always listed inRed font.


A Mix with 1.0 Colorant has 1.oz Colorant added to the prescribed Reflective / Viscosity Mix (...usually approx 3 quarts) A 4.0 Mix has 4 oz Colorant to 3 quarts


OK...now to address your specific situation.


First off, the HT3550 is not a "ST" PJ (Short Throw) 13' isn't considered "short" by anyone's approximation. That would be your ideal Throw distance for a 130" diagonal screen.



2nd. You can easily create a 130" diagonal Screen with enough ambient light resistance to offset the projected image's light that would collect and rebound off that White surface. To not have that ability would consign your screen image to being muted...washed out to some degree...certainly the depth of the Blacks as well as the vibrancy of colors would take hits respectfully.


In your case, a Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 would be both advised and sufficient.


Component Availability:


All Liquitex Colorant Ingredients available at Michael's or Online at Dick Blick Art Supplies



Varathane Clear Matte Polyurethane @ Home Depot Online https://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathan...2074/305587650


RustOleum White Pearl @ Home Depot Online https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-1-qt-White-Pearl-Metallic-Interior-Paint-320731/301788083

RustOleum Sterling Silver @ Lowes Online https://www.lowes.com/pd/rust-oleum-...ents-32-fl-oz/
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post #2670 of 2779 Old 05-24-2019, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Hey! Asking questions totally validates one as having the intent and desire to learn.


The 2.5 designation is a "Version". ex: v1.0 - v1.5 - v2.0 - v2.5...........the higher the number, the newer the Formula version.



Since Silver Fire has it's basic premise in providing Ambient Light performance, and with the addition of Colorant becomes virtually infinitely adjustable in that regard, with the higher the numerical designation, the darker Grey the mix becomes, that means the more enhanced Ambient Light performance becomes. The Number represents "Ounces" Colorant designation is always listed inRed font.


A Mix with 1.0 Colorant has 1.oz Colorant added to the prescribed Reflective / Viscosity Mix (...usually approx 3 quarts) A 4.0 Mix has 4 oz Colorant to 3 quarts


OK...now to address your specific situation.


First off, the HT3550 is not a "ST" PJ (Short Throw) 13' isn't considered "short" by anyone's approximation. That would be your ideal Throw distance for a 130" diagonal screen.



2nd. You can easily create a 130" diagonal Screen with enough ambient light resistance to offset the projected image's light that would collect and rebound off that White surface. To not have that ability would consign your screen image to being muted...washed out to some degree...certainly the depth of the Blacks as well as the vibrancy of colors would take hits respectfully.


In your case, a Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 would be both advised and sufficient.


Component Availability:


All Liquitex Colorant Ingredients available at Michael's or Online at Dick Blick Art Supplies



Varathane Clear Matte Polyurethane @ Home Depot Online https://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathan...2074/305587650


RustOleum White Pearl @ Home Depot Online https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-1-qt-White-Pearl-Metallic-Interior-Paint-320731/301788083

RustOleum Sterling Silver @ Lowes Online https://www.lowes.com/pd/rust-oleum-...ents-32-fl-oz/
Thanks Mississippiman, this is very helpful. A few more questions:

1. Do I also need 10oz of PPG Diamond Flat from HD as well in addition to Varathane Clear Matte Poly, White pearl and Sterling Silver?
2. In terms of colorant, I would need 3 ounces (which is 88 ml) so use this chart and get the appropriate amounts (ex. 88% of 50ml of crimson red and so on)? 88ml of distilled water

100ml - filtered/distilled water for rinsing color components from utensils
50ml - Liquitex Basics - Napthol Crimson Red
25ml - Liquitex Basics - Phthalocyanine Green
14ml - Liquitex Basics - UltraMarine Blue
10ml - Liquitex Basics - Cadmium Yellow - Deep Hue

3. For viscosity? Do I also need 24-36 oz of distilled water? Or is this not needed for this mix?
4. Lowes must not carry it or the link is not valid. I found this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...-304774684-_-N
Would this do?
4. I am assuming I mix the appropriate components (don't whip it up, take it slow etc) and paint away (saw notes on application techniques and have no questions on that yet).

Thank you.

Last edited by home4sale2; 05-24-2019 at 07:55 AM.
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