Fixing my 130" DIY curved screen: going from DW Laminate to some painted/cloth screen - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 20 Old 05-31-2011, 01:10 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
mtbdudex's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked: 1479
My build thread 130" DIY Curved Screen with structural extruded aluminum metal framing documented my issue with humidity induced warpage from post#70 Jan-2010.
I tried countermeasure Jan-2011 by sealing the wood/lamiante, but did not work.

Now, this summer I'd like to "fix" the warpage/bow by going to some painted/cloth screen.
(it's a slight issue, but I want it gone)

I will salvage this metal/wood curved frame (and it's border and masking) via router the laminate away.

The metal/wood hybrid curved frame will still slightly "move" during humidity months of June-September here in Michigan, but with cloth under slight tension I'm hoping that will not be an issue.

So, MM/tiddler/others;
I'm open to your experience, advice, guidance.
My timeline for this is planning/discussion June, and possible over July 4 big (4) day weekend to do the actual work.

Summary of my thinking:
I'll take a router to the DW laminate as seen here, remove it,


And have this frame as basis for attaching whatever painted/cloth screen is best for my Sony VW60 in light controlled environment.
Will start from this:



Steps:
1) Remove screen from wall
2) remove border (un-screw), will re-use
3) take frame outside
4) router lamiane on inside edge of frame, throw away laminate
5) attach new screen material -in garage (exact material tbd, attach method tbd)
6) paint some formula - in garage (formula tbd, paint process/method based on experts here)
-paint trials to gain experience
-the "real" painting
7) re-attach border
8) re-hang screen to wall (actually 3-4" higher, tweaking height below my acoustic clouds but allowing the center speaker to come slightly higher as well)
9) turn on PJ - enjoy before calibration
10) re-calibrate PJ with new screen
11) give subjective DW Laminate to painted cloth screen change impressions
12) have a NEW SCREEN HT party!

Looking forward to getting the planning done correctly, buying materials and implementing it.
mtbdudex is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 20 Old 06-01-2011, 05:05 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
bud16415's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Erie Pa
Posts: 7,496
Mentioned: 102 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1988 Post(s)
Liked: 1004
I designed my screen system around all the concerns you mentioned and all the things you realized when putting yours into practice. Mine however is not curved. I saw no need for a curved screen in my application. Pulling a fabric tight while forcing it into a convex shape I'm afraid will be prone to problems with wrinkles. The only chance you might have is if the fabric is mounted to the backside of the frame thus forcing a concave stretch.

I live as far north in Pa as you can get on the shore of lake Erie with a 150 year old house and I get both temp and humidity changes seasonally to a large degree. I was made aware of the problems when building test screens, and based around that I did the self tension design I did. it has been working well now for 5 years and is still drum skin tight.

I may be a person that has a high sensitivity to visual changes across the screen surface and the slightest twist or change in texture I see. Everyone is different but for me canvas produced a uniform texture that was sub pixel size by a factor of something like eight. That helped to allow dispersion while allowing a paint with a higher luster / sheen than would not normally work on a dead flat surface. The canvas texture also I believe makes painting errors less a problem. Some of the bonus features are it shrinks as the paint dries and remains elastic so that the self tensioning feature can work. The frame I went with a laminating method of three layers of 1/2 inch 5 ply plywood this is the most rigid method I could think of without a lot of cost and still allowed to staple the fabric.
link to thread

https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=635968

Bud
bud16415 is offline  
post #3 of 20 Old 06-14-2011, 09:08 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Brad Horstkotte's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Torrance, CA
Posts: 5,128
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked: 77
I had the same thought re: easier to get a nice stretch if mounted to the convex side (back) - although maybe you could route a channel in the front, and use a spline (a la screen door) to get it to pull tight from the front, and then the frame covers the spline.
Brad Horstkotte is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 20 Old 06-14-2011, 09:40 AM
Senior Member
 
kthejoker20's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Kenosha, WI
Posts: 224
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 23 Post(s)
Liked: 17
I built a 145" screen.

I used foam and clear plastic vinyl. I think you should be able to curve that nicely, and not have warpage, as there is no wood.

I didn't do this, but you could also put a think layer of crey paper glued to the top of the foam, then use locktite spray and glue the clear vinyl to the paper so it is off the foam, then use a heat gun to shrink up the plastic and make it nice and smooth with no humps or bubbles, and also it will melted and shaped to the curve of the plastic.
'
Just my 3 cents.
kthejoker20 is offline  
post #5 of 20 Old 06-14-2011, 12:00 PM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 21,553
Mentioned: 208 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3416 Post(s)
Liked: 1606
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Just use 6mm Sinta @ 5 x 10. It is white Signboad...made of Expanded PVC (NEVER WARP) and is perfect for assuming a radius. Paint it before mounting.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #6 of 20 Old 06-15-2011, 12:11 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
mtbdudex's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked: 1479
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Just use 6mm Sinta @ 5 x 10. It is white Signboad...made of Expanded PVC (NEVER WARP) and is perfect for assuming a radius. Paint it before mounting.

If doing this on existing frame I'd have to float the Sinta like LarryD did, or do you think the Sinta would not warp and "fight back" the alum/wood frame movement...This may be good solution to keep frame, and paint.

If starting out "new" or complete curved screen V2 I'd give up on this frame.
I could probably get 30x30 sq tubg alum frame curved at local shop, I did investigate that last summer but never did it.

Last ditch so save frame and use some cloth:
If after I router out the lamiante, how about if I mount the frame on the wall, with the cloth stapled to the top horizontal piece as shown, then also to a long/straight 2 x 4 in RED as shown.
I add weights (4 spaced equal) to put tension, staple the botton working from center > out both ways.
Would this work?
I'm going thru it in my mind and realize I'm not adding any tension side-side, just up/down. Heck, I'd play with the weights also to dial in tension w/o inducing "tension waves"...


I'd then take that into the garage, paint to tbd finish on the cloth (a mixture to be discussed at later date), let it dry, and re-mount in the basement.

The very mild warpage that affects the laminate>buckle IMO should NOT affect cloth under slight tension, it would...hopefully absorb it and not be noticable.

Thoughts to the above plan?

Using existing frame:
MM Sinta idea vs my cloth idea.

If I mount the Sinta via oversized holes and washers, it will then have a slip plane to let the frame flex w/o inducing stress, and I'd have to also consider mtg the screen border I already have made....with its embadded magnets and mask panels. I am trying "easiest" way here. (same way cars have for windshield cowl big plastic part, where thermal strain causes the part to grow more than the sheetmetal, so it is mounted on floating mount scheme to avoid buckle). Usually, what you do is pick 1 central point as a hard fixed point, then further outboard from that the move float to allow for is req'd. ie, bigger hole and washer the further from the center.
mtbdudex is offline  
post #7 of 20 Old 06-15-2011, 10:01 PM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 21,553
Mentioned: 208 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3416 Post(s)
Liked: 1606
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
You'll get it done best using Sintra. Easier too. I see no reason to.abandon the existing frame.

...and I'll repeat, Sintra al NOT warp.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #8 of 20 Old 06-16-2011, 02:30 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
mtbdudex's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked: 1479
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

You'll get it done best using Sintra. Easier too. I see no reason to.abandon the existing frame.

...and I'll repeat, Sintra al NOT warp.

I'm sold on using Sintra, doing some digging into my exact sizes - good thing I had a detailed build thread, Post#51 showed:
Quote:


Real end dimensions from inside the border with velvet/final attachment:
119.625 width
50.875 height
129.994 diag
2.351 laminate screen calc ratio

the 120" will "just fit" under my existing border side edge, and I can use the leftover 6mm board from cutting it down 57" high (51" screen + under the 3" border top/bottom), 3" strips as filler for the RH/LH sides under the border.
>>Tailor made!

This online store, http://www.artsupply.com/foamcore/sintraboard.htm, has 60" x 120" x 6mm White Sintra PVC Board for $143.00 + shipping charges.
I'll check local sign supply shops in Brighton/Howell Michigan area also before buying.
Ok, that decision is made!
Thanks MM for your feedback.

Now, we need to discuss paint mixture choices......
My PJ is 4 year old Sony Black Pearl - VW60, light controlled room, dark walls.
mtbdudex is offline  
post #9 of 20 Old 06-16-2011, 04:35 AM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 21,553
Mentioned: 208 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3416 Post(s)
Liked: 1606
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

I'm sold on using Sintra, doing some digging into my exact sizes - good thing I had a detailed build thread, Post#51 showed:


the 120" will "just fit" under my existing border side edge, and I can use the leftover 6mm board from cutting it down 57" high (51" screen + under the 3" border top/bottom), 3" strips as filler for the RH/LH sides under the border.
>>Tailor made!

This online store, http://www.artsupply.com/foamcore/sintraboard.htm, has 60" x 120" x 6mm White Sintra PVC Board for $143.00 + shipping charges.
I'll check local sign supply shops in Brighton/Howell Michigan area also before buying.

Oh yes...do that. The average price of 6mm 5' x 10' Sintra at most every Supply house is $92.00 w/NO Shipping. And they will almost always do one cut for free too.


Quote:


Now, we need to discuss paint mixture choices......
My PJ is 4 year old Sony Black Pearl - VW60, light controlled room, dark walls.

RS-MaxxMudd LL v.2.1 for the easiest, most assured results. Why...you can even roll it onto the unmounted 6mm Sintra. Spraying would however provide the absolute best finish.

For the very best Black Level improvement plus gain increase, Silver Fire 1.5 v.2.1 Sprayed only. With your having a dedicated room with dark surfaces and light control, the darker versions are not needed, nor really advisable with the lumen challenged Sony shooting such a large image.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #10 of 20 Old 06-16-2011, 05:38 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
mtbdudex's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked: 1479
Thx MM, I'll go with silver fire and read those threads for spraying techniques. I don't have a sprayer, but I do have a air compressor in the garage - I buy a spray can for it.
(I'm surfing AVS via iPhone sitting in seat 16a waiting to takeoff for Nashville in 15 minutes).

This will be fun!
It will be interesting to subjective compare dw laminate to silver fire also. I can paint the sintra board, view image on the dw laminate, then clamp the Sinta painted board over it and view again for quick a vs b. (before I router out the dw laminate)

Flight taking off now.....
mtbdudex is offline  
post #11 of 20 Old 06-17-2011, 09:55 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
mtbdudex's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked: 1479
Doing a search, there are a lot of HVLP spray guns I could use with my garage air compressor.

This search in amazon reveals lots to choose from, http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...hvlp+spray+gun .

Doing some reading, its important to manage the air pressure into these.
The one with the gage mounted on the gun....seems good solution...but I don't know anything about these.
Then, there are 1.3mm, 1.5mm, 1.7mm sizes ....which size to choose? and why? I don't know so asking.
(I looked in the beginners guide but did not see anything there....)

So, how about this 1.7mm one?
http://www.amazon.com/Professional-G...bxgy_hi_text_c

Quote:
Professional Grade 1.7mm HVLP Air Spray Gun with Gun Metal Finish

Technical Details
Professional-quality high-volume, low-pressure spray gun kit for professional results
1.7mm spray nozzle; 600cc aluminum cup
Operating pressure: < 40 PSI, average air consumption: 4.5 CFM; spray pattern control knobs
Finished with Gun Metal Nickel for long-life durability
Includes air-adjusting valve, gauge, aluminum cup, nozzle
and price seems right, $33 delivered to my home!
Quote:
List Price: $129.00
Price: $32.83
You Save: $96.17 (75%)
mtbdudex is offline  
post #12 of 20 Old 06-17-2011, 11:58 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
pb_maxxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: chicago
Posts: 2,564
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked: 58
@mtbdudex;

if that's the direction you intend to go... then you'll want to make sure to practice with it and get comfortable with each of the pressure adjustments before going with an actual screen.

as for size... prefer the 1.5mm tip.
pb_maxxx is offline  
post #13 of 20 Old 06-17-2011, 05:54 PM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 21,553
Mentioned: 208 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3416 Post(s)
Liked: 1606
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
WHOA there!!!

Using a Conventional HVLP Gun isn't as easy as simply hooking it up, doing a few adjustments, and squirting away.

Nope.

You need a good Water/ Rust Filter. Your Compressor MUST be able to maintain a constant pressure of at least 70 psi at the Tank, even if your holding the Gin's trigger wide open for 2 minutes or more.

That means it had better be at least a 32 gallon / 5.5 HP rig or you WILL have to pause repeatedly or risk getting a very uneven coating in spots.

Bubba, I have a 32 Gallon rig....and since I started using the 'Wagster', It is only used to pump up Tires and run Impact Wrenches.

In no manner or way should you spend for a HVLP Gun when you can cop a Wagner DD for $60.00 or a Graco 2800 (Gleem No-Name Special) for $50.00. (No need for any Water Rust Filter...so easy to use almost a Cave Man can do it. )

The Water/Rust Filter is at least an additional $20.00 by itself, and you can't spend anything to improve insufficient Pressure delivery short of getting a larger Compressor.

Lastly, the conventional HVLP will take longer to squirt the screen, and won't deliver as broad a Pattern.

Now if you do have a big Rig, already have a decent Filtration system, your Compressor's Tank isn't full of rusty Cruddy moisture, your Hoses are rubber, not Vinyl (no tendency to produce condensation in the line...), you get real used to the thingee before you try to paint the screen...and nothing undue happens (...it will, ya know....) you could do OK.

Myself...I consider myself anj expert at using those kind if Rigs....and I hate 'em with a passion because even with care...too often ugly things happen. Fish Eyes. Rust Spots. Weakly coated areas. Splatters from pressure changes.

Be advised...forewarned...and do what you think is best to achieve the best possible results as easily and dependably as possible.

I know you will.

Like get and use this...............
http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #14 of 20 Old 06-17-2011, 06:04 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
pb_maxxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: chicago
Posts: 2,564
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked: 58
he seemed determined.
you seem to turn 'em around much better than i.
last i checked menards had the wagner cs for $69 and a $20 rebate... to go with it.
pb_maxxx is offline  
post #15 of 20 Old 06-17-2011, 06:11 PM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 21,553
Mentioned: 208 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3416 Post(s)
Liked: 1606
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post

he seemed determined.
you seem to turn 'em around much better than i.
last i checked menards had the wagner cs for $69 and a $20 rebate... to go with it.

Yeah...I know about that deal....but the Gleem unit is a better choice because the older Wagner needed to have the paint thinned an awful lot, and it is anemic in power compared to the "No-Name" unit.

Turn 'em..? Naw....I just try ta "learn 'em".

Sometimes they heed...sometimes they bleed.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #16 of 20 Old 06-17-2011, 06:36 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
pb_maxxx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: chicago
Posts: 2,564
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 122 Post(s)
Liked: 58
true. i modified my cs so the head attachment is now between the size of the CS and DD.

i've also got a DD.
now if only they made the power of the DD with the head unit of the CS... without having to buy both...
pb_maxxx is offline  
post #17 of 20 Old 06-17-2011, 07:45 PM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
Blasst's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: So.California
Posts: 3,607
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 87 Post(s)
Liked: 86
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Yeah...I know about that deal....but the Gleem unit is a better choice because the older Wagner needed to have the paint thinned an awful lot, and it is anemic in power compared to the "No-Name" unit.

Turn 'em..? Naw....I just try ta "learn 'em".

Sometimes they heed...sometimes they bleed.

Quotes from the Master!
Blasst is offline  
post #18 of 20 Old 06-18-2011, 03:47 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
mtbdudex's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked: 1479
MM - I'm not set at all about using my garage equipment - and the issues associated with that.
If a "Gleem No-Name Special" is the better "tool" for the task, then I'll procure that, and learn how to use it, Thx for your help.
Before I place my order, are there any more "tools" or paint stuff I should add to my cart from that site?
Possible a few extra plastic cans? Back-up tips? (I'm guessing here).

Quote:


HV2900 Spray Station HVLP (Reconditioned)



pb_maxxx - I do plan on developing my skill painting test stuff in the garage before painting the actual sintra board.
That's what I like about this whole HT DIY stuff, I've learned so many skills that have been useful in other areas of life, so learning how to paint with a HVLP would be neat also.

I did read thru Beginner's Guide To Simple DIY Painted Screens and watch MM's videos Application Techniques , but somewhere I must have missed the "suggested equipment for spray painting" post.


Off topic for HT screen but sorta related to spraying - log home re-staining, and possible to help me with that project.
MM/others;
My builder used a HVLP sprayer to stain my log home exterior originally in 2002, at least I thought it was, he could suck up the stain from the 5 gallon stain jugs with his set-up, not sure if that's HVLP or traditional hi-pressure gear.
I re-stained it in 2005/2006 via simple garden pump sprayer and back brushing, but many trips up/down ladder - and below boom crane.
Is there a up to $250-ish HVLP system that I could buy that would serve both purposes? Suck stain from the 5 gallon jugs for re-staining our home and do good quality job for the HT screen?

I should re-stain every 4-5 years, so it will get use.
If not, then I'll buy the HV2900 Spray Station for the HT screen and just grunt thru the whole log home re-staining manual method....

Here's me in 2005 re-stain having "fun" operating 36' boom crane:
mtbdudex is offline  
post #19 of 20 Old 06-21-2011, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
mtbdudex's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked: 1479
Doing some research on HVLP solution that can handle both my DIY painting needs (this screen + future usage), and my every 4 years staining needs
(ie suck up from 5 gallon jug).

Lunch time run today:

a) @ Lowes I see they carry Graco spray station 3900 can also handle 1 gallon via backpack mounted supply.
That in itself would make the log re-staining task easier and paint the screen.
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
Quote:


Spray Station

Maximum Control - ensures precise application
1 gallon spray pack designed to fit your back
3 spray patterns for horizontal, vertical and detail spraying
On Board storage for 13' hose and spray gun
How To DVD
Minimal Overspray - less material wasted
Ideal for small to medium projects where precision and control are required
Spray a 6' x 6' area in 4 minutes
Quick and effortless clean up
Precision Spray Gun for ultimate control
1.5mm Fine Finish tip
2.0mm Stain/Latex tip
1 Qt. wide-mouth paint container



b) I called Gleem paint customer service and explaind my situtation, after we talked he felt it best to have a 2 tool approach:
...b1) their 2900 refurb unit for the DIY screen http://www.gleempaint.com/noname.html
...b2) Wagner Hvlp Conversion Gun w/ 2.5 gallon Pressure Pot, using my existing home air compressor for air pressure for log home re-staining $389.00.
To use it the 25 foot hose is too short, I need at least 40', 50' would be best.
http://www.gleempaint.com/waghvcongunw.html


That's a lot of coin, close to $500 when all done and said for 50' twin hose + shipping, etc.

Therefore I'm leaning towards the spray station 3900 - $150, unless you experts have some value priced hidden gem....

I'm renting a 50' boom crane (Chets rent-all had issues with the 36' model) over July 4 weekend, so I'll be re-staining the home 1st, then painting the screen now Mid July-ish.
mtbdudex is offline  
post #20 of 20 Old 06-24-2011, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Forum Special Member
 
mtbdudex's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 6,763
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 83 Post(s)
Liked: 1479
I just ordered the No-Name from Gleem, thx MMan, should have it next week Wednesday.

I should add there was email and phone discussion with the maker of that unit tech support, "Sam".
After discussion with him I concluded the HVLP unit MMan suggested is best $ for my HT screen project, and I'll stain the log home with the low tech method I've done already, 1 gal garden sprayer and back-brush.

Sam was concerned running 20-25 gallons stain thru the 500 watt HVLP would really push it from a durability viewpoint.....for most people that's a whole lifetime of usage.....he did say it comes with 2 year warranty from Lowes so if stopped working to return, but still, the other issue is HVLP with backpack unit cannot work above the gravity datum of the hose, so I'd have to use the cup for all the overhead work anyway.
Just seemed like to many issues for using the "low cost" 3900 for staining the home.

This is email he sent me before I called him:
Quote:


From: Sam H [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Wednesday, June 22, 2011 3:12 PM
To: R, Mike
Subject: HVLP

Hi Mike,

Thanks for contacting us with your questions, although it looks like you took a long way around. I'm glad you found me.

The two projects you describe are very different and while the HVLP could spray the sealer for the log home it isn't really set up to do such a large job. I would recommend two different tools that together won't set you back too much.

#1 project - the log home. For this I would think that an airless system such as http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
Graco Sprayer Hose added to this http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1
Project Painter air less paint sprayer.

#2 project - cabinetry. For this I would say the Spray Station 3900 which comes with a fine finish needle in addition to the painting needle. HVLP is all about control. You'll have much less overspray and be able to use paints, stains, lacquers, polys, sealers, etc.

Please feel free to contact me directly with any other questions.
Good luck with your projects!
Sam H
Technical Support US

mtbdudex is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Screen Section

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off