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post #61 of 72 Old 07-16-2019, 01:34 PM
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What Wood? Poplar...Clear Poplar(White)....ALWAYS Poplar.

For really large, wide Screens, I use 1 x 4s on-edge for the perimeter and 1 x 3s on edge and flush to the rear for the Interior Supports.

Using 1 x 3s for the Perimeter Frame just requires making the necessary adjustments.

1 x 3s used throughout require that 1 x 2s on-edge become the Interior Supports. But it can be more difficult to find longish pieces in 1 x 3 that are straight. I have seen more and more 120"ers use of 1 x 3s throughout, and several 110" and smaller size Screens that used 1 x 2s throughout (...the 1x2s used for interior supports are laid Flat...)

Now before you get the idea of ripping a 1 x 3 lengthwise to allow you to set the front edge back of a on-edge Interior Support just a 1/4", be advised that ripping such thin lumber will often spring the grain and allow what was a straight piece to become twisted or bowed. It happens more with 1 x 3s and 1 x 2s...and a lot more often when ripping down 2 x 4s....a popular compromise material when one is stretching some heavier Fabric over really large frames. It's frustrating to hold a long straight piece in your hand, rip off 1/2" and then see it get "twisty".

Anyway....with 1 x Lumber size is the determining factor....that and the depth allowance one will tolerate. Low tolerance levels have caused many to resort to the "Flat Frame" approach, and absolutely there are examples of such shown that look pretty incredible. But usually such a design stops at 115" - 120" diagonal.


A bit of extra advice:


It is not a bad idea to brace a corner from 2 directions when using a Kreg Tool. The torque you deliver can sometimes make the wood shift and leave you with a less than Flush joint.

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post #62 of 72 Old 07-21-2019, 06:16 AM
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In the plans that you made earlier, I cut my vertical supports to be 55 1/4, as per the plans.

As it turns out, the 1x3's don't make a frame that's 57 7/8, and the frame is now 1 inch too short, clocking in at 56.75 x 138.5.

Is there a good way to add the 1 inch of height that I need?

Thanks!
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post #63 of 72 Old 07-21-2019, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle Bartels View Post
In the plans that you made earlier, I cut my vertical supports to be 55 1/4, as per the plans.

As it turns out, the 1x3's don't make a frame that's 57 7/8, and the frame is now 1 inch too short, clocking in at 56.75 x 138.5.

Is there a good way to add the 1 inch of height that I need?

Thanks!

There exists a variable in the dimensions that constitute a given Format, and at your size in a 2.39:1 Format it's almost 2.5" on the short side.


I usually quote the lower average because as in your case, 1/2" over-spill on each side is easier to deal with than a longish line across the screen surface because the edges fit perfectly.


Anyway, you can get "close enough for Rock & Roll" by adding one long piece across the Top or Bottom, with several spacers of 1/4" Plywood between the existing Frame and the to-be-added" 1x.

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post #64 of 72 Old 07-21-2019, 12:24 PM
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How am I almost 2.5 inches off vertically?

For a 150 diagonal in 2.39:1, I calculate that the dims should be:

Height: 57.875
Width: 138.375

Now my width is 138.5, so my height should be 58 inches. My actual height is 56.75, so I calculate it as being 1.25 inches off - where are you getting 2.5?

Let me know, thanks!
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post #65 of 72 Old 07-21-2019, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Kyle Bartels View Post
How am I almost 2.5 inches off vertically?

For a 150 diagonal in 2.39:1, I calculate that the dims should be:

Height: 57.875
Width: 138.375

Now my width is 138.5, so my height should be 58 inches. My actual height is 56.75, so I calculate it as being 1.25 inches off - where are you getting 2.5?

Let me know, thanks!
?What I said (...or meant to say...) was that there is a variable that allows for a 2.5" variance each way from "center". Total. It can be anywhere between that and Zero. While you might not have experienced it, across the gamut of different PJs and Screens, many see instances where the projected image doesn't square with the screen's dimensions on both axis...width & height. It's getting to be more universal....but there is still a common reasoning for having either a Black background behind the Screen, or a Black Border. The latter because uing zoom to make up the difference was always and still is what most turn to.

Hey...it's great...even advisable to exactly meet the calculated dimensions. It will always in the least put you close. I myself have done dozens of 110" 16:9s at 54" x 96" and 122"ers at 107" x 60. Mostly everything always works out. But things get a bit trickier with ultra wide screen formats like 2.39:1. My suggestion was based on the fact that any error in height creates less a variance than does an error in width when 2.39:1 is involved. In your case...to correct to "almost" exact, you can place two additional 1x 3s @ 138.5", on at the top and one at the bottom and gain 1.5" on the current 56.75". That will give you 58.25.......a 1/4" off. 1/8" top & bottom.

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Last edited by MississippiMan; 07-21-2019 at 04:15 PM.
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post #66 of 72 Old 07-21-2019, 04:50 PM
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Talking

I see what you mean now. I thought you meant my height was 2.5 inches off. I am going to add another 1x4 on the top with some .5 inch plywood spacers to get me there. I need to get a table saw to rip the plywood though.

A throw of 17' will work for the 5050ub for a 150 inch diagonal, correct? I ran the calculator and it said I could go as low as 15'6", but I need to leave some room to zoom in for 16:9 content. As the room stands right now, there is 17' between the projector LENS and the front of the screen.

I should be able to start a new build thread for the masses of AVS forum tomorrow with the pictures I took yesterday. I will still use this thread for advise though. The electrician hasn't done his work, but it's coming along...
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post #67 of 72 Old 07-21-2019, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Kyle Bartels View Post

I should be able to start a new build thread for the masses of AVS forum tomorrow with the pictures I took yesterday. I will still use this thread for advise though. The electrician hasn't done his work, but it's coming along...

Going to open the AVS version of Pandora's Box, eh? Steal yur Wul......expect a 1/2 dozen + different takes. Contradictory responses. Expensive advice.



Might be best to advise you to, "Duck & Cover!".


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post #68 of 72 Old 07-21-2019, 07:36 PM
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A throw of 17' will work for the 5050ub for a 150 inch diagonal, correct? I ran the calculator and it said I could go as low as 15'6", but I need to leave some room to zoom in for 16:9 content. As the room stands right now, there is 17' between the projector LENS and the front of the screen.
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post #69 of 72 Old 07-22-2019, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle Bartels View Post
A throw of 17' will work for the 5050ub for a 150 inch diagonal, correct? I ran the calculator and it said I could go as low as 15'6", but I need to leave some room to zoom in for 16:9 content. As the room stands right now, there is 17' between the projector LENS and the front of the screen.

17' is just fine............but you should already be aware of the Epson's Lens memory feature. When doing "Constant Image Height" you set the PJ's memory to have the image on-Screen to produce a 2.39:1 image, you then put up a 16:9 image and "Zoom down" (reduce image height by 20") and use Lens Shift (reposition the image) so that the 16:9 image will fit inside the top & bottom edges of the screen. Then you set the Lens Memory for that specific parameter. After that, the size correction becomes automatic via selection of the given Format.


You'd only have to be concerned if the 16:9 image was to be "taller" than the 2.39:1, and with a 20" advantage already built into the 16:9 format,that would never be a concern at all.

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post #70 of 72 Old 07-22-2019, 08:09 AM
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Awesome - I will save this comment for when the projector + screen are up and running.

If I use this -> https://syfabrics.com/collections/pl...triple-velvet1 for a layer at the bottom of the screen (stapled/pinned to the false wall that I create), can I place ported subs (FV15HP) directly behind it? The sub enclosure would be 3" or so back from the material and the woofer would be slightly behind the bottom of the screen frame.

The sub is 24" tall and the screen will be 20" off the floor, will this cause issues? Would it be advised to build a 20" stand for the subs so that the whole box is behind the AT material?
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post #71 of 72 Old 07-22-2019, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Kyle Bartels View Post
Awesome - I will save this comment for when the projector + screen are up and running.

If I use this -> https://syfabrics.com/collections/pl...triple-velvet1 for a layer at the bottom of the screen (stapled/pinned to the false wall that I create), can I place ported subs (FV15HP) directly behind it? The sub enclosure would be 3" or so back from the material and the woofer would be slightly behind the bottom of the screen frame.

The sub is 24" tall and the screen will be 20" off the floor, will this cause issues? Would it be advised to build a 20" stand for the subs so that the whole box is behind the AT material?

LFE frequencies are not nearly as subject to frequency Combing or gross attenuation when a Fabric "Wall" stands between them and the room. PTV is not a dense fabric either.

However there would be some effect...how adverse I cannot say.

Usually people continue to surface a False Wall with one or two layers of Milliskin, as that material is quite a good Matte Black, and is of course an excellent AT material.
If the rearward area is fairly well light controlled (dark painted surfaces (Framing and the like...)one can usually get by with a single layer across the Framing.


......and, please....Post those Gol' Durn Images up on your own new Thread on this Forum, will ya?

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post #72 of 72 Old 07-22-2019, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post


......and, please....Post those Gol' Durn Images up on your own new Thread on this Forum, will ya?
I am pulling them off my phone now - NO way am I starting a new thread on mobile!
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