Easy Ambient Light Rejecting Screen Paint - Page 28 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #811 of 1446 Old 01-31-2016, 05:23 PM
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Hey Ftoast, remember me? I was the one who asked about the ratio in mixes and I was the one who asked you about the 18:1 white mix ratio. Well if you don't, let me tell you what I have been doing.

I tried the black onyx mix but that failed. I put it on a spread of Carl's blackout cloth and all I saw was paint lines. It lit up pretty well but my painting was horrible. I believe I was too anxious. Plus I needed a flatter surface to roll paint on. Therefore I started thinking and devised something new.

I came up with the idea of having a black vinyl canvas second surface (600 Denier pvc fabric black) and white stretchable mesh first surface. I wondered if it would work. I figured it would but had to experiment.

Here are some pictures of how it looks, How it looks with an image in the daytime, with an image at night with the lights on and with them off. I have a Sanyo PLV-Z5 projector with 1100 lumens and a 10,000:1 contrast ratio. The blacks are BLACK but almost too much at night. I may add another level of white mesh or get another projector with more lumens; which I leaning toward anyway. What do you think?

I'm doing this in between painting. I think I may spray paint next.
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post #812 of 1446 Old 02-01-2016, 05:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Lebryant91 View Post
Hey Ftoast, remember me? I was the one who asked about the ratio in mixes and I was the one who asked you about the 18:1 white mix ratio. Well if you don't, let me tell you what I have been doing.

I tried the black onyx mix but that failed. I put it on a spread of Carl's blackout cloth and all I saw was paint lines. It lit up pretty well but my painting was horrible. I believe I was too anxious. Plus I needed a flatter surface to roll paint on. Therefore I started thinking and devised something new.

I came up with the idea of having a black vinyl canvas second surface (600 Denier pvc fabric black) and white stretchable mesh first surface. I wondered if it would work. I figured it would but had to experiment.

Here are some pictures of how it looks, How it looks with an image in the daytime, with an image at night with the lights on and with them off. I have a Sanyo PLV-Z5 projector with 1100 lumens and a 10,000:1 contrast ratio. The blacks are BLACK but almost too much at night. I may add another level of white mesh or get another projector with more lumens; which I leaning toward anyway. What do you think?

I'm doing this in between painting. I think I may spray paint next.
Does the black fabric have a bit of gloss/shine to it which adds some brightness to the picture along with the white mesh?

The second daytime picture looks kinda dim but the screen looks nicely dark-colored and the last two pictures look much brighter..the last one turned out particularly nice.
If the second layer of mesh doesn't make the screen too light-colored for your needs and gets the extra brightness you need that'll be a pretty cool combination.
If you're really liking the black vinyl and white mesh, post it and details of what you used and how you held it all together in the Non-Painted Black Screen thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-di...-tests-40.html
so folks there can follow along (they likely won't be looking in here if they're trying to find a non-paint screen).

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #813 of 1446 Old 02-01-2016, 08:14 AM
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Yes by the way. The Denier fabric that I used did have a reflectivenside that almost behaved like reflective tape. The other side was a light absorbing layer of fabric.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to share my idea as soon as I get time. I'll keep ya posted when I do the extra layer of mesh.
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post #814 of 1446 Old 02-01-2016, 08:15 AM
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Yes by the way. The Denier fabric that I used did have a reflectivenside that almost behaved like reflective tape. The other side was a light absorbing layer of fabric.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to share my idea as soon as I get time. I'll keep ya posted when I do the extra layer of mesh.
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post #815 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 02:28 AM
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Originally Posted by grersonpagan View Post
I am so very happy/pleased with the results of this paint mix. I now, actually, want it darker because the projector has more capacity still and also I messed up THIS screen and it came folded. I'll spray the paint on the next screen material instead of rolling it.
There is so much light reflecting on eco mode it's not even funny.
Curious what projector you are using?
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post #816 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 02:42 AM
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Found the whiteboard ya'll were mentioning!! http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-...TW48/205995949

spent the last 7+ hours reading from page one and am now up to speed. looks like i may end up selling my brand new 100" white 1.0 gain screen

Ftoast i dont know what keeps you motivated, but i greatly appreciate everything (even the random madness that is your method)

I havent decided how dark i want to go. i have likely settled on getting a BenQ W1070 to replace a prefect working order 1080 60" LG plasma. I do have ambient light (diffused through diffusing blinds on the right entering from nearly 90 degrees and at about 25' away" and low ambient light from the left about 5' away but much more controlled with blinds and dark curtains. I will want the best night time viewing experience and daytime experience so i suppose the best comprimise at rejecting ambient light while maintaining good whites and color vibrancy. Considering doing that led method it seems to help the eyes adjust for even greater contrast. (staring at this forum for 7 hours makes you realize what the color blue does to whites) every time i looked at my email it looked almost orange so the high blue outline of the led may trick the eyes a bit into seeing the whites as whiter when they are blackened (blueish) definitely food for thought.

i will not be purchasing anything until after the superbowl (hoping it drops pj prices, ya'll would know better than i if this has any bearing)

anyway any suggestions is great i put pictures of my ambient light in this thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...tor-700-a.html

any tips and tricks would be great. i was also thinking of "renting" a sprayer how well does that work with this application? i believe i read that it actually applies better when using a roller?

Also any tips suggestions for a flawless smooth joining of multiple pieces of mdf? how to smooth joints and not notice any blemishes?

I ask a lot i know, thanks for any attempts at fueling my curiosity.

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post #817 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 04:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NU_FTW View Post
Found the whiteboard ya'll were mentioning!! http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-...TW48/205995949

spent the last 7+ hours reading from page one and am now up to speed. looks like i may end up selling my brand new 100" white 1.0 gain screen

i will not be purchasing anything until after the superbowl (hoping it drops pj prices, ya'll would know better than i if this has any bearing)

anyway any suggestions is great i put pictures of my ambient light in this thread https://www.avsforum.com/forum/68-dig...tor-700-a.html

any tips and tricks would be great. i was also thinking of "renting" a sprayer how well does that work with this application? i believe i read that it actually applies better when using a roller?

Also any tips suggestions for a flawless smooth joining of multiple pieces of mdf? how to smooth joints and not notice any blemishes?

I ask a lot i know, thanks for any attempts at fueling my curiosity.
Looks like the same panel..I wish they still sold the other one I originally used just because it was more hardy and difficult to break. The thrifty-white can be snapped over your knee if you use enough force (not bad, but the stronger stuff was even nicer).

You're crazy for reading this whole thing. Your eyes must be ready to bleed from all that straight monitor reading.

A lot of the sales on the budget models have been running on and off like they're ignoring events, but some might be specifically ending after the superbowl so keep an eye out.
I don't think any of the good Benq models have been on sale too recently. The ht2050 (quieter running w1070) seems to be holding steady at $750-800, but I was happy to see it's available at both Bestbuy and Walmart for the standard $799. I love places which allow hassle-free returns to a physical store, so BB and Wally appeal to me.

With that left window decently curtained/blinded and the other window at such a 90degree angle, I didn't realize at first look how well-off your room is.
Are there any major lights beside or behind the seats that you'll have to worry about?

The main benefit to rolling (besides the price) is that it's much faster..my main problems with spraying have been my own lack of patience where I try to lay down too much paint and end up getting runs just like MississippiMan/PBmaxx warns. If you aren't trying to go ridiculous black/dark and you can take the time needed to make several light duster coats rather than trying to do it all in one or two coats, spraying works great. It also lets you avoid any chance of roller-marks..which is nice though minimized with some techniques and a more subtle mix.
If you can actually rent or borrow an electric (not air-compressor tank) HVLP sprayer that's made for thinner paint rather than unthinned latex for a pretty low price, that might be a neat way to go.

For joining panels the most important part is you'll want both joining edges sanded a little lower so your seams don't bulge out anywhere. Feather outward from the filled gap and sand it smooth by hand. Because the panel is so smooth and the compound so easy to sand, a really light/fine paper on the block can still work really well while not accidentally taking any gouges out. Even a gentle touch removes layers of compound pretty fast. Checking it with a sideways angled light may be a little harder than normal with part of the material being shiny and the filled area being matte, but you'll still need to check it for final mistakes that need filling or sanding before you paint.

I think I ended up with more texture from the first coat of plain flat-grey than I had from the sanded compound..so that's why I suggest thinning that first coat (which will likely run but at least dry much smoother) since sanding paint goes a LOT slower than sanding lightweight drywall compound.

Of course this paint texture can also be less of a problem if you decide to spray.

What screen-size are you aiming for?
Are you a big 3D fan or casual/occasional user at best?

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #818 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 10:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
Looks like the same panel..I wish they still sold the other one I originally used just because it was more hardy and difficult to break. The thrifty-white can be snapped over your knee if you use enough force (not bad, but the stronger stuff was even nicer).

You're crazy for reading this whole thing. Your eyes must be ready to bleed from all that straight monitor reading.
OCD gets the best of me sometimes. And due to my dyslexia it takes me longer to read but much faster to read on a computer with a mouse to keep my eyes on the right line My poor eyes wish i had gone to beed sooner. (6am) and kids woke me up at 10

Quote:
A lot of the sales on the budget models have been running on and off like they're ignoring events, but some might be specifically ending after the superbowl so keep an eye out.
I don't think any of the good Benq models have been on sale too recently. The ht2050 (quieter running w1070) seems to be holding steady at $750-800, but I was happy to see it's available at both Bestbuy and Walmart for the standard $799. I love places which allow hassle-free returns to a physical store, so BB and Wally appeal to me.

With that left window decently curtained/blinded and the other window at such a 90degree angle, I didn't realize at first look how well-off your room is.
Are there any major lights beside or behind the seats that you'll have to worry about?
The only lighting from directly behind the viewing position is controlled with the flip of a switch or two or three
Quote:
The main benefit to rolling (besides the price) is that it's much faster..my main problems with spraying have been my own lack of patience where I try to lay down too much paint and end up getting runs just like MississippiMan/PBmaxx warns. If you aren't trying to go ridiculous black/dark and you can take the time needed to make several light duster coats rather than trying to do it all in one or two coats, spraying works great. It also lets you avoid any chance of roller-marks..which is nice though minimized with some techniques and a more subtle mix.
If you can actually rent or borrow an electric (not air-compressor tank) HVLP sprayer that's made for thinner paint rather than unthinned latex for a pretty low price, that might be a neat way to go.
With so many places offering returns for just "meh didnt work for my uses" *cough*walmart* "renting" is easier to accomplish.
Quote:
For joining panels the most important part is you'll want both joining edges sanded a little lower so your seams don't bulge out anywhere. Feather outward from the filled gap and sand it smooth by hand. Because the panel is so smooth and the compound so easy to sand, a really light/fine paper on the block can still work really well while not accidentally taking any gouges out. Even a gentle touch removes layers of compound pretty fast. Checking it with a sideways angled light may be a little harder than normal with part of the material being shiny and the filled area being matte, but you'll still need to check it for final mistakes that need filling or sanding before you paint.

I think I ended up with more texture from the first coat of plain flat-grey than I had from the sanded compound..so that's why I suggest thinning that first coat (which will likely run but at least dry much smoother) since sanding paint goes a LOT slower than sanding lightweight drywall compound.

Of course this paint texture can also be less of a problem if you decide to spray.
food for thought
Quote:
What screen-size are you aiming for?
Are you a big 3D fan or casual/occasional user at best?
I have not attempted 3D in quite some time and when i did it was not the theatres it was a buddies 55" not sure what tv. At the time when i tried it out the glasses made my head hurt and it was a bit disorienting, not to mention i do not wear glasses, EVER, it was uncomfortable. I had thought about giving 3D a go.

I have not settled on Screen Size i may start with (if i can find it a 5x10 cut to 16:9 with a 1" border for some black felt) before i build i will watch a few movies on my current 100" screen then i will roll screen up and cast on the wall as big as possible from test possible locations. i will be ceiling mounting it and can mount as far away as ~14 feet perhaps more just guestimating. I will go for mounting dead on the optimum position as to not cut lumens using zoom for whatever size i go with. So much to read about!

Thank you for the response.
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post #819 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 11:11 AM
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AH HAH i just remembered what i was going to ask. I dont like the idea personally of doing a base coat of "grey" for instance then using a single top coat as the silver.... is that for your personal reasons or performance? I am OCD and know how to paint with brush/sponge/roller/sprayer/air brush is there adverse reasons to not do it all in solid 2:1 Grey instead of doing 1/2 coats grey and then doing only 1 top coat of 2:1? I would prefer uniformity which i would think would be greater achieved with multiple coats of the metalic top paint.. and just prime the bottom with a good sticky primer.
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Thanks in advance

Edit: i havent settled on a color on the N scale just yet was just using 2:1 grey as an example in the previous post

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post #821 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 12:22 PM
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Ok shoot me now, but i am curious have you ever tried layered spray paint? if you know what you are doing when spraying you can get amazing results just wondering how this might work since you cant mix ahead of time was thinking like matt black base with silver metal over then matt black again then silver metal again then perhaps a matt poly could prolly do a test for under 15 bucks. I dont currently have a projector, tried a cheapo LED and i didnt like the results even having manually calibrating (not very easy on the chinese model i had) so i sent it back. would perhaps need some fine wetsanding inbetween applications depending on the quality of paint you buy (some has a better mist while others can spray blobs within the mist)
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post #822 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 01:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NU_FTW View Post
Edit: i havent settled on a color on the N scale just yet was just using 2:1 grey as an example in the previous post
thanks for the pre-warning.

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Originally Posted by NU_FTW View Post
AH HAH i just remembered what i was going to ask. I dont like the idea personally of doing a base coat of "grey" for instance then using a single top coat as the silver.... is that for your personal reasons or performance? I am OCD and know how to paint with brush/sponge/roller/sprayer/air brush is there adverse reasons to not do it all in solid 2:1 Grey instead of doing 1/2 coats grey and then doing only 1 top coat of 2:1? I would prefer uniformity which i would think would be greater achieved with multiple coats of the metalic top paint.. and just prime the bottom with a good sticky primer.
I suggest the base coat of plain grey because almost anything will need two coats (smooth panels need a first coat for the second coat to have something decent to stick to, drywall compound and bare wood need a first coat so the next one doesn't soak in too, lighter/darker/patterned surfaces need a first coat to get the color closer) and after trying it both ways I realized the plain grey VS a first coat of mix didn't seem to make a performance difference BUT the plain grey would be something you already had on hand for the mix and using it would mean using half as much metallic overall...cutting costs almost in half.
The plain grey is also a little darker-colored before it's mixed which makes seeing bare spots as you're painting the second coat easier sometimes.

Otherwise, if you prefer to use mix for all the coats and are okay with the increased cost of needing more metallic to do it, that works too.

Primer, especially if you can get it tinted grey, will totally work in place of the plain grey coat..I've just been using plain flat-grey instead of actual primer since I haven't run into any problems and it costs less <-really inspiring stuff, I know.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #823 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 02:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok shoot me now, but i am curious have you ever tried layered spray paint? if you know what you are doing when spraying you can get amazing results just wondering how this might work since you cant mix ahead of time was thinking like matt black base with silver metal over then matt black again then silver metal again then perhaps a matt poly could prolly do a test for under 15 bucks. I dont currently have a projector, tried a cheapo LED and i didnt like the results even having manually calibrating (not very easy on the chinese model i had) so i sent it back. would perhaps need some fine wetsanding inbetween applications depending on the quality of paint you buy (some has a better mist while others can spray blobs within the mist)
I've tried messing around a little with layers but not while spraying and I totally admit having no real idea/education on what I'm doing.

I tend to think of layering for an ALR screen working like tank armor..the juicy stuff is underneath a layer of protection where something hitting it at an angle needs to go through a larger amount of armor to get through while a straight shot has less armor to pass through..in this case the juicy insides being a light or particularly reflective base-coat and the armor being a darker thicker layer that may or may not also have some reflective bits to add some extra gain.
Lots of things from ancient manufacturer screens and frosts/poly's over mirrors on up to the older Mississippi Mudd painted screens used variations of this kind of layering.

Not sure if that helps you with your plan/theory of layering or just adds more things beside it..but, yeah.

I really like the idea of making a painted screen that's overly reflective initially and then tamed down with a top-layer of poly or something similarly protective. I'd love to have a screen that can be scrubbed clean.
..even though I've never had any reason to clean a screen besides a light dusting, the idea still appeals to my "just in case" side.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #824 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 02:19 PM
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I've tried messing around a little with layers but not while spraying and I totally admit having no real idea/education on what I'm doing.

I tend to think of layering for an ALR screen working like tank armor..the juicy stuff is underneath a layer of protection where something hitting it at an angle needs to go through a larger amount of armor to get through while a straight shot has less armor to pass through..in this case the juicy insides being a light or particularly reflective base-coat and the armor being a darker thicker layer that may or may not also have some reflective bits to add some extra gain.
Lots of things from ancient manufacturer screens and frosts/poly's over mirrors on up to the older Mississippi Mudd painted screens used variations of this kind of layering.

Not sure if that helps you with your plan/theory of layering or just adds more things beside it..but, yeah.

I really like the idea of making a painted screen that's overly reflective initially and then tamed down with a top-layer of poly or something similarly protective. I'd love to have a screen that can be scrubbed clean.
..even though I've never had any reason to clean a screen besides a light dusting, the idea still appeals to my "just in case" side.

Havent gone through the MUDD thread yet. And i wasnt planning per say to spray paint, just wondering if in all your mad science of trial and error if you had attempted it. spraying is thinner similar to a polarization coating to reflect certain wave lengths by using varying thicknesses. So with spray you cn get some of the stuff to seep through. i would be interested in trying it if i had a projector and doing step by step testing primer then silver then test then add black then test then add silver then test then black then test then matte poly then test all in same lighting so couldnt really have ambient light being a huge factor for a standardized test but still good to do a side by side. i think i may test it when i pull the trigger. i wont be building/testing screens for at least a month. I was just curious it is also how some cars do sparkle paints and pearl paints is by layering
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post #825 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 03:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I remember trying to layer that same sparkle/metalflake look onto a speaker-cab...it didn't turn out bad in the ugly sense, but I definitely failed to properly nail the really bold 3Dimensional effect you get from properly spacing the metallic from the base (also chose colors that were too similar to create a really noticeable effect). Then again many of those same things can make a screen too visible and distracting..so maybe I should try hitting that box with a projected image. !

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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So I've pretty much got everything together for my DIY screen project but wondering, do you paint the material before or after you attach it to the frame? Thinking it would be easier before but would like to know the exact best steps.

Thanks.
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Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
I remember trying to layer that same sparkle/metalflake look onto a speaker-cab...it didn't turn out bad in the ugly sense, but I definitely failed to properly nail the really bold 3Dimensional effect you get from properly spacing the metallic from the base (also chose colors that were too similar to create a really noticeable effect). Then again many of those same things can make a screen too visible and distracting..so maybe I should try hitting that box with a projected image. !
i would be interested seeing how that looks
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post #828 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 08:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by farr3ll View Post
So I've pretty much got everything together for my DIY screen project but wondering, do you paint the material before or after you attach it to the frame? Thinking it would be easier before but would like to know the exact best steps.

Thanks.
Attaching to the frame first can help make sure the panel doesn't warp/curl as the paint dries or cures (which happened to both of my large panels while I thought I could just attach them to a frame later).

If you're rolling it can be tricky starting and ending your rows off the edge of the screen once the frame is attached, so it might be best if rolling to attach as soon as the paint is dry while being mindful not to damage the surface.

If you're spraying it should be overall easier/safer to attach the frame first..especially since it lets you hang the screen up somewhere rather than leaning it precariously.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #829 of 1446 Old 02-05-2016, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
Attaching to the frame first can help make sure the panel doesn't warp/curl as the paint dries or cures (which happened to both of my large panels while I thought I could just attach them to a frame later).

If you're rolling it can be tricky starting and ending your rows off the edge of the screen once the frame is attached, so it might be best if rolling to attach as soon as the paint is dry while being mindful not to damage the surface.

If you're spraying it should be overall easier/safer to attach the frame first..especially since it lets you hang the screen up somewhere rather than leaning it precariously.
Thanks mate.

I'll have a play around. I might try and extend the panels with some lengths of wood and extra cloth to give me an overlapped area, you get what I mean.

Wish me luck...
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post #830 of 1446 Old 02-07-2016, 11:21 AM
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finally

so ive been reading this thread for a few weeks. i got a small portable projector for christmas. Its an SPro2 led projector with a 5 inch screen with android built in. I have Kodi on every piece of tech i own and figured this lil guy would be perfect for on the go stuff. I even got a lil portable table top roll out white screen to go with it. THEN i found this thread! This lil projector is only capable of 200 lumens max, and all the walls in my house are a Tan'ish color. When i first projected an image to this tan colored wall, both myself and the wife were like WOW that looks pretty good! So we had been doing that for about a month.

After finding this thread a couple weeks ago i was like HEY, i can do this! So i started pricing stuff out on amazon, lowes, home depot, ace true value and every other hardware store that came to mind. I figure i need to test before going with what i will put up as a final piece, so starting from NO materials at all i spent around $320 to get going I bought everything from 4 28x48 mdf whiteboards, 2 quarts of flat white, a gallon of RL metallic (mica), 1 quart of grey tabby(4 8oz testers), 1 gallon of universal grey, and 1 gallon of granite grey. i also had to by rollers and roller covers. disposable drop cloths, paint mixer cups, stir sticks, disposable paint liners, frog tape ect ect ect. i bought enough to be able to do 8 test and starting from nothing. so thats why it cost so much. im fine with that.

I initially did flat white v the unpainted shine of the whiteboard. the first thing we noticed is wow how this tan wall is stealing the color lol. a week later i did flat white v 3:1 metallic/grey tabby. probably wasnt a good idea comparing it to flat white on the same board, but overall it was too dark. it turned the whites to grey, and the sparklies were very annoying. So i did some more reading up and thinking for my next test. I decided to do 2:1 granite grey/metallic v 2:1 metallic/granite grey. i think i have found my winner.

The Granite grey is noticably lighter than the grey tabby, and i see NO sparklies on this board at all. i put all the boards up together to compare the white levels, and the grey tabby turned the white grey straight up. The white was white of course, but the 2:1 mixes fell to a very respectable white level with the 2:1 metallic being a little whiter than the 2:1 granite grey. at nite in pitch black they all look great. with the lights on theres almost no picture on the flat white(as expected). With the lights on i get a very watchable picture from the granite grey, since the 2:1 granite is a half shade darker than the 2:1 metallic it gives me a deeper black and the color pops better and it seems to fight the light just a tiny bit better.

I spent all day yesterday watching this 2:1 board. lights on its a watchable picture, lights off it looks awesome. I put it up over my window in the garage, so during the day the light comes thru the opening from behind and it makes it look like one of those screens with the led lights behind them. This coupled with the lights off actually made the picture contrast a lot better, the black seemed blacker. So with that being said, i will add the led light to my final build.

In thie end.....long winded first post lol......i will go with the 2:1 granite grey/metallic mix with a piece of 4x8 mdf whiteboard with led ambiant light backing cut to size. Oh and i will roll on, i used to be a painter by profession so im not bad with a roller and yes STAY FAR AWAY FROM FOAM ROLLERS!!! lol get the shortest nap u can find, and on your finishing strokes make sure the open end is trailing the roller end and u should come out with a smooth wall with no roll marks. Ill post some pics from my phone in a lil bit
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post #831 of 1446 Old 02-07-2016, 02:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gstyle40 View Post
In thie end.....long winded first post lol......i will go with the 2:1 granite grey/metallic mix with a piece of 4x8 mdf whiteboard with led ambiant light backing cut to size. Oh and i will roll on, i used to be a painter by profession so im not bad with a roller and yes STAY FAR AWAY FROM FOAM ROLLERS!!! lol get the shortest nap u can find, and on your finishing strokes make sure the open end is trailing the roller end and u should come out with a smooth wall with no roll marks. Ill post some pics from my phone in a lil bit
If you mean the one you like best so far is 2parts granite and 1part metallic, you might want to try 2metallic +1granite if you've still got a panel you can paint on or over. The granite grey seemed to be light enough to go higher than most without as much trouble (I ended up with a 3metallic 1granite rolled with a 3/8nap I needed to use up and it still turned out surprisingly well).

For future notice to anyone looking to experiment like this:
-Buy and break/cut apart a 4x8 panel which will only be $10-15 instead of buying many small ones.
-Buy a gallon of tintable flat Light-Base and a gallon of flat "Deep Onyx" both in the brand you'll end up using and write down the ratios you use which you can later just get color-matched once you find your perfect grey for about $25 total.
-The RalphLauren $50 gallon is one of the cheapest ways to get a lot of metallic.
-Walmart sells 1/4"nap roller pads in ~$6 3packs while most hardware/paint stores only sell 1/4" and smaller as singles for about the same price.
-A couple trash bags cut/split open the long way can be an inexpensive drop-cloth alternative.

I love the dedication AND the information you shared, gstyle40, but I feel bad that you've probably invested more into this than I have at this point...feels very wrong.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 02-09-2016 at 07:48 AM.
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post #832 of 1446 Old 02-09-2016, 05:37 AM
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Hello everyone. I'm new here. I live in Czech Republic. My projector is LG PA70G and I tested the mix paint ( Gray Tabby + silver metallic ). On the firs picture is right 2/1 and left 3/1. Believe me pictures deceiving. In reality the picture is darker than the pictures in photo. And sorry my english google translator
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Last edited by don007; 02-09-2016 at 06:06 AM.
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post #833 of 1446 Old 02-09-2016, 08:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don007 View Post
Hello everyone. I'm new here. I live in Czech Republic. My projector is LG PA70G and I tested the mix paint ( Gray Tabby + silver metallic ). On the firs picture is right 2/1 and left 3/1. Believe me pictures deceiving. In reality the picture is darker than the pictures in photo. And sorry my english google translator
Labelling the painted halves and adding white paper near the center was very helpful. Thank you for the excellent and thorough pictures.

Was the pa70g set closer to the bottom of the screen or closer to the top?

It looks like your 2/1 and 3/1 mixes used 2 or 3parts metallic and 1part Grey Tabby, but please correct me if I'm backwards.
Did either half look glittery or textured, or do you think adding more metallic for more brightness would be possible without too many problems?

Do you want a brighter image or do you prefer how it looks right now?

Was that metallic okay to work with or really troublesome?
Would you recommend it to others if the color and brightness of the mix was able to be good?

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #834 of 1446 Old 02-09-2016, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
Labelling the painted halves and adding white paper near the center was very helpful. Thank you for the excellent and thorough pictures.

Was the pa70g set closer to the bottom of the screen or closer to the top?

It looks like your 2/1 and 3/1 mixes used 2 or 3parts metallic and 1part Grey Tabby, but please correct me if I'm backwards.
Did either half look glittery or textured, or do you think adding more metallic for more brightness would be possible without too many problems?

Do you want a brighter image or do you prefer how it looks right now?

Was that metallic okay to work with or really troublesome?
Would you recommend it to others if the color and brightness of the mix was able to be good?
Projector was closer to the bottom of the screen.
Mix- 2xmetallic and 1xGrey Tabby, 3xmetallic and 1xGrey Tabby.
It does not look glittery. The pictures is little bit dark in real, but is ok when you are watching movie at the dark. The black is black. But in the day ( i tested in my work and I dont have here window I have here light from fluorescent lamps ) is little bit bright picture
But I like this picture 3/1 is ok but is not perfect like your screen.
It was great to work with metalic paint, absolutely no problems with it.
I would definitely recommend it.
Please du you have a skype because talking to me goes better and and I can show to you a live


I have another TEST. This is when I playing in 16mm projector ( lamp 24v 250w about 5000 lumens ) on paint screen 3xGrey Tabby and 0,5xmetallic. Then the image is like on TV.
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post #835 of 1446 Old 02-09-2016, 08:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by don007 View Post
But in the day ( i tested in my work and I dont have here window I have here light from fluorescent lamps ) is little bit bright picture
But I like this picture 3/1 is ok but is not perfect like your screen.
It was great to work with metalic paint, absolutely no problems with it.
I would definitely recommend it.
Please du you have a skype because talking to me goes better and and I can show to you a live
If you have enough of both paints leftover, would a brighter mix like 6/1 metallic/Grey Tabby still look smooth while giving a brighter image? I'm sure part of the dimmer image is from the projector being positioned closer to the screen's bottom, but it sounds like the metallic should work well in higher amounts.

I don't Skype but would enjoy if you want to post video or video-links showing what you're doing.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #836 of 1446 Old 02-09-2016, 09:00 PM
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Red face

Hi I'm sorry seems like I'm really late in this game I just got my first projector and I have gone though the whole thread I wanna ask openly I'm a bit tight on budget and the paints you guys are naming I can't find them (I just moved to india) so is there a color code or something I can say these guys cause they don't get it (I'm searching for them in Asian paints just a heads up) and please do tell me the safest bet among all the combinations you guys are going through and I may require a little bit of guiding through this whole process .
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post #837 of 1446 Old 02-09-2016, 09:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Omar Rashid View Post
Hi I'm sorry seems like I'm really late in this game I just got my first projector and I have gone though the whole thread I wanna ask openly I'm a bit tight on budget and the paints you guys are naming I can't find them (I just moved to india) so is there a color code or something I can say these guys cause they don't get it (I'm searching for them in Asian paints just a heads up) and please do tell me the safest bet among all the combinations you guys are going through and I may require a little bit of guiding through this whole process .
Have you had any luck finding a tintable, water-based metallic?
That's usually the hardest part by far, even though brand isn't very important.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #838 of 1446 Old 02-09-2016, 09:11 PM
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Hey Ftoast, have you ever tried using some pearl (like SF) mixed with the metallic? Just curious
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post #839 of 1446 Old 02-09-2016, 09:12 PM
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Have you had any luck finding a tintable, water-based metallic?
That's usually the hardest part by far, even though brand isn't very important.
I'll ask and be back )))
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Have you had any luck finding a tintable, water-based metallic?
That's usually the hardest part by far, even though brand isn't very important.
I'll ask and be back )))
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