Originally Posted by morepowerTV
Its a pretty natural grey wall maybe ill see how the viva bright does. I have some generic 1024X768 resolution projector my new one is supposed to be here tomorrow. So moving to 1280X800 should help
Id love to move to a full 1080P but they are all out of my budget right now.
-Id prefer the image to be a little light forgiving right now its not at all. Mainly so if im eating watching a movie I can have some basic light just not on the screen while I eat.
Id like to see better color representation and a better contrast between colors
Id like to use the board as I dont own this so id rather not paint the wall.
Id love to just paint on the wall but it just seems like a hassle to repaint over in a year.
I figure a screen that is smooth would also give better pic the wall has a rough surface one of those new where they add just a little so its not just flat.
Problem I guess with a board is that my screen size is pretty big so I would likely have to put several together as I doubt they come in the size I have projected. IM not even sure how bit it is.
I've heard good things about the ViewSonic pjd7827 which is bright, accurate, flexible and full 1080p at around $500, but I don't think you can find 1080p at much under that price-range.
Your plain grey wall is naturally decent at taming reflections and about as good as it gets against lights coming from near the projector/seats since lights in those places can't be fought effectively by a screen without it also fighting the projector at the same time by dimming the image.
A light-fighting/ALR screen (one that isn't just plain flat/matte grey) is mostly good at fighting lights hitting it at angles such as lights coming in from the sides and steeply above/below..so you might need to keep low expectations for what a screen can do for a low-lumen projector with lights near the seats/projector.
It can still help, but likely less than you'd like or expect it to.
Because your wall/screen is already pretty neutral and dark-colored, you'll mostly get improvements in color accuracy and contrast from a more accurate and higher-contrast projector (usually easiest with an RGB DLP because non-RGB DLPs are less accurate and affordable LCDs are lower-contrast).
It's harder and more expensive finding panels over larger than 48inch x 96inch (about as tall as a 100"-diagonal 16:9 screen or wide as a 110"-diagonal 16:9)..so painting the wall may be something to consider if you want to go larger than that for very little money. Usually the next cheapest option is either 5x8 or 5x10 drywall (which is pretty heavy and brittle) or a wooden/poplar frame and BlackOutCloth..but BlackOutCloth is often only available at only 54inches-tall unless you pay a lot extra for a specialty size.
A very non-shiny/flat-finish paint can make a textured wall/surface look surprisingly smooth, but you're right that a smooth surface can be even sharper, AND you'll need a smooth surface (and smooth paintjob) if you decide to use a mix that helps against off-axis lights (like a metallic or metallic and poly mix with paint).
For metallic paints, I'm familiar with Rustoleum Metallic Accents(sterlingsilver and pearl, etc), RalphLauren and PPG tintable silver metallic and FolkArt..but the FolkArt which works great sprayed, I haven't had much luck rolling it on..and I'm guessing you're rolling instead of spraying.
Let me know if you find your new projector to be brighter or dimmer than your old one (brighter will definitely help when watching with lights near the seats), and try to measure your image-size...and see if any of those metallics I listed above are available at a liveable price or if you'll need to use something random and more local if you decide to make the screen more aggressive against off-axis lights (lights farther from the projector/seats).