DIY Screen Woes - Help Please. - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 31 Old 02-15-2016, 11:50 PM - Thread Starter
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DIY Screen Woes - Help Please.

So I recently purchased a BenQ W1070, the day prior my carls sample pack came, The ALR is making everything way too dark, the Silver Screen is too sparkly (see sparkles of light refracting in rainbows almost) I sat at my left most seating position put the carls alr at the top right part of the screen, not really testing the ALR part of the screen but in the dark it looks like poop, Carls would be 170 for the screen and then cost of making the frame.... I am worried about spending the money on paint and having it turn out similarly/the same. If i stand pretty much dead on back far enough the ALR looks fantastic, but nobody will enjoy the entire screen at this point. Righ tnow i have it projecting on a wall at 120.7168690186" diagonal. I have looked into the painting methods, worried about not being satisfied after painting. i ma seated roughtly 10-11' away from screen the couch is ~90" widethe pj is mounted to ceiling about 6" drop no extension on the mounting bracket. Lense to wall "screen" is 11.5" PJ is exactly dead center on middle of couch. If i can feel more assured of another possibility i would gladly go that route. Flexi Grey looks ok doesnt wash whites out too much If silverscreen wasnt so dagon sparkly it would look better.

SF i can get the metalics for $25 and have a michaels here to get the pigments, I do not own a paint gun/sprayer and would prefer something i could return after i am finished.

I do not want to really mess around with "maybe" this or that. Suggestions on ALR that doesnt dim when not viewing dead on from that particular point on the screen as the screen is longer than the couch i estimate the angle from my head to the top right corner is at least 45 degrees.

Any All Help is appreciated, and welcome even if those who suggest do not agree with one another i would very much appreciate help. I want to go the DIY for budget reasons and i have seen great results with not spending a boat load on everything. Assume 170 for screen materials/paint/application and lumber etc i can cover but that is essentially the "top" of my budget.


Thanks for the help.
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post #2 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 12:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Example Pics
Screen is an off white wall, flat, samples are in top right corner
Left is Flexi Grey Right is ALR bottom/mid is Silver Screen all Carls Place.
Apologies for the horrible pics, using an S4 by hand. When i get more clarification ill switch to a more professional camera and tri pod.
oh and i turned lights on in the kitchen just to compare
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post #3 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 12:30 AM
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I tried the painting method with White latex paint and a touch of black to make a light gray color, i just completed it yesterday and the effect of the flexigray is similar to what got with light gray paint.
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post #4 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 04:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NU_FTW View Post
Example Pics
Screen is an off white wall, flat, samples are in top right corner
Left is Flexi Grey Right is ALR bottom/mid is Silver Screen all Carls Place.
Apologies for the horrible pics, using an S4 by hand. When i get more clarification ill switch to a more professional camera and tri pod.
oh and i turned lights on in the kitchen just to compare
How's it look from your different seating positions with the sample/s near the center of the screen?

All light-rejecting screens will dim to some extent at the corners, but it's often much less noticeable on a whole screen instead of a sample near the edge of a flat/matte screen/paint.
The darker the screen's color appears, the more ambient light it can fight BUT the more it will dim toward the edges/corners.

Your seating being about 90inches wide on a 120" screen doesn't sound like a problem at all, but the projector is fairly close-mounted for an aggressive light-rejection screen..although others have been happily using the CarlsALR with similar setups which are equally close-mounted.

The most important part will be how bright the screen looks at the center when you're seated at the edges of the couch..as well as if the material looks sparkly from your distance and positions.
The edges of the screen will be dimmer than the center, but as long as the image isn't half on a screen and half on the wall, this dimming should be nearly invisible during most viewing..your eyes will typically end up being tricked into believing the brightness near the center is how bright the whole thing is.

That all said, some people ARE more sensitive to the side-dimming and will naturally prefer a lighter screen/material that will dim less toward the sides. It's a compromise, but not a bad one for many.
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Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 02-16-2016 at 04:57 AM.
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post #5 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 05:27 AM
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Black Flame X1I would eliminate every concern and consideration your facing...but your budget limitation shoots that down.

Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 w/6 oz additional UPW "sprayed" would be the next best choice. Shopping carefully, a HVLP sprayer can be had for under $60.00 so you could come in at your stated budget. As far as the act of spraying itself...that's really far easier than most begin to imagine. Lots of help and advice on here to get you through any hiccups too.


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post #6 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Black Flame X1I would eliminate every concern and consideration your facing...but your budget limitation shoots that down.
Could you or PB take a similar example shot as the pictures above showing BF or a similarly dark SF in the far corner of a flat/matte-white wall using a projector with a fairly short throw-distance?

I imagine NU_FTW would probably like to see about how much corner-dimming will take place before making any large-ish purchases that can't easily be returned.

I do agree that a lighter version of SF with extra UPW or SF-NC with maybe a touch of additional UPW should dim less significantly than the Carl's ALR in the corners..but it will still dim to some extent.

Edit: here's an example of the corner dimming that can be expected with SilverFire-NC (right, which should have the least dimming) and SilverFire-12 (left, a dark and high-gain version which should perform similarly to BlackFlameX1).


Keep in mind that, like the Carl's ALR and other ALR screens, most/all of this dimming becomes invisible on a full screen without a visual reference-point (the plain white) to break it up for the eyes.
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Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 02-16-2016 at 09:42 AM.
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post #7 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 09:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

Silver Fire v2.5 3.0 w/6 oz additional UPW "sprayed" would be the next best choice. Shopping carefully, a HVLP sprayer can be had for under $60.00 so you could come in at your stated budget. As far as the act of spraying itself...that's really far easier than most begin to imagine. Lots of help and advice on here to get you through any hiccups too.


[/COLOR][/COLOR]
What Material would be best served to spray onto? I am confident in my spraying abilities, i just read so much about the silver making imperfections stand out heck the wall im shooting on has holes in it screws from pictures (holes are from screws/nails) and bulging where screws are under to fasten the drywall to the outside wall, and it all looks "decent" i wouldnt call it perfect.

Regardless of screen material/paint/color choice i have decided that i want the screen to stand off withthe option of adding led lights behind it.

Carls BOC is not vinyl backed but would more than likely be the cheapest medium to paint onto (that i have found)

I am so torn, i had thought for sure i found the easiest solution to my problem, now i am not so sure.

The WAF plays a huge role as well. My wife is in the Army and wont be home for a few more months, but when she gets home i need to impress. I also need it to be on budget. She gave me hell for spending as much as i did, i told her it would be like when we went from a 42" LCD (CFL backlit) to a 60" Plasma as far as wow factor goes. So im doing my best to achieve that. It has to be some sort of ALR because it is in the livingroom and dont want to have to pause when the kitchen or dining room lights need to be on for making food or kids eating or what have ya.

How do most people compensate for the Carls ALR White balance?? I would rather not take the PJ out of ECO mode for numerous reasons (bulb life, power draw, heat output, fan noise)
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post #8 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NU_FTW View Post
Example Pics
Screen is an off white wall, flat, samples are in top right corner
Left is Flexi Grey Right is ALR bottom/mid is Silver Screen all Carls Place.
Apologies for the horrible pics, using an S4 by hand. When i get more clarification ill switch to a more professional camera and tri pod.
oh and i turned lights on in the kitchen just to compare
I totally understand why you put the sample at that extreme angle, (you want to make sure you're making the right decision) but that is not real world and it's not a good representation of how the screen will perform. Like Ftoast said and I agree, I don't see screen dimming on my full size Carls ALR screen.

I never got as good of compliments on my Flexiwhite screen like I do with my ALR screen from friends and neighbors. But I'm not trying to sell you on it. I still prefer a white screen with no ambient light. But if you are saying you are going to have ambient light in the room I believe the Carls ALR is the best choice.

Everything is a trade-off. You may be a person that prefers the nice bright whites over the inky blacks. (I am that person) In which case, you may be better off mediating the light situation and going with white.

Also, getting your projector as far away from the screen as you can is beneficial with the ALR.
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post #9 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 11:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Oddly I was in the kitchen at the microwave and noticed it looks better at that angle about 15 feet to the right and 20ish feet back why do it look better at that seemingly more extreme angle
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post #10 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 01:30 PM
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@NU_FTW

much of what you are experiencing has to do with perception and because of small samples not being a full representation of how a full screen performs... ...what you're mind often gives you is a deception of that perception.

in order to get a true gauge of two samples and their performance... you really have to compare them in a totally controlled theater... ie a theater more perfect than most of us have access to. in this pristine condition the color, hue, and saturation of the alr sample and the white sample should be barely unrecognizable... with the exception that the higher gain screen will have a higher upper level white... and vise versa the darkest colored screen visually (when unprojected) will have a deeper bottom end black during bright scenes. the only other really noticeable difference will be when flashes of light are projected such as explosions and puffs of smoke, etc, which are often hard to pick up in a screenshot. the real reason for this is simple... when light is present... the screen color itself is also picked up the eyes and invades/becomes a part of the perceived image. it's in this respect that we are often deceived... when we are drawn to what we perceive to the better brightness sample and in the reverse better black levels sample.

here's an example of two samples side by side... the color you see here is the unprojected color.


but when projected on in controlled lighting...they should be virtually unrecognizable in color, hue, and saturation...which is the mark of a good alr screen.



*notice the silverscreen sample behind the one on the left which is darker but completed wrong.

however, in ambient light... the differences are dramatically different and you might question the darker sample...which it has to be to combat ambient light and preserve color saturation...so long as it top end white level does not take a dramatic hit because the grey from the alr screen is absorbing much more than it's capable of reflecting.

for example... you decided to give us images (basically one scene) that you captured in ambient with a white screen and several alr samples for carl's arl. i don't have a controlled lighting image to go by so i can't make a relative gain comparison...nor do i have an image that let's me see what the color of the control white screen wall is vs the color of the alr samples unprojected on.

the first thing you have to recognize is that in ambient your eyes will pick on the color of the screen itself... therefore your eyes will often be drawn to the "whiter" image...even when that image is completely wrong. in other words... if you project some that should be a "grey" (ie a small amount of light) on the white screen... what your eyes see is the white of the screen punctuated by that additional small amount of light... thereby making the image that should be visually grey essentially more white,

now back to the 3rd image posted... if i am looking at the right hand side with the bottom sample covering the wall... i have to wonder what the color of the wall 'really' should be. is it supposed to nearly white (as influenced by the eyes picking up on the white wall) or is it supposed to be a medium gray (as influence by the eyes picking up on the greyness of the alr sample)... or is the truth really somewhere in between.

ideally you'd want to post several different types of screenshots to determine and rule out many of the tricks your eyes will play on you...such as gravitating to the brighter sample which may be totally wrong or gravitating the darker sample for black levels which may also be wrong because while it may be darker, it may also have a LOSS of black level detail.
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post #11 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Spoiler!


Appreciating the feedback thus far. I took some more pictures for a better frame of reference.

The ones with 3 pannels left to right is silverscreen, grey, alr the ones with 2 panels are silverscreen, alr
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post #12 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 02:04 PM
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now i'm getting a much more rounded view of the three samples.

for starters... you do NOT want the middle sample... leave it out of the next round of screenshots you post.
it is considerly darker both on axis and off axis and does not appear to produce sufficient white levels for your setup.

which leaves us with the two outside samples... both of which have a higher gain than your off-white wall on axis... and both of which seem to dramatically lose their gain advantages from as little as 15-20% off axis.

so unless you plan on sitting in the center seats or design your theater for a tunnel layout... i'd rule out the other two samples as well.

with respect to the ambient light dark scenes... even though they are both clearly darker... they both appear to be lacking in black level detail. but then again, it's hard to judge that with such small samples.

...just to be sure... how about a couple more images to compare (you can leave out the middle sample for these).

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post #13 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 02:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Took some more, right now there is a large amount of ambient light the silver screen blends in the most looking almost unable to distinguish it in the pictures at times

My biggest problem with the silverscreen is it looks really grainy at times in certain darks and certain very brights. any suggested picture i can put on here i can load pic to it via my laptop
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post #14 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Took some more pictures. What i can say is if i could get something between the silverscreen on the left and the alr on the right it would be perfect. The Silverscreen is TOO sparkly and the ALR is too dim by comparison unless at the proper position/angle to the screen. Here are some of the other pictures i took hopefully this is enough body to have others help me with potential solutions.

Took one of a pure white screen, the photo doesnt do it justice for how pure white it is. Still taking these with my S4 got one with both on flesh found some super high MP pictures with vibrant colors too.

also lots less ambient light in the room now, just a over sink pot light and a tv in the kitchen but nothign directly facing toward the screen at all now


Again thanks for ALL advice.
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post #15 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 04:59 PM
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Too bad you don't have some Black Flame or Silver Fire there. All the caveats your describing are addressed with those paint apps.

If one was to compare something, the Silver Screen looks like RS-MaxxMudd or Silver Fire N/C, but the latter two don't exhibit all that grain if adjusted for such.

The Carl's just isn't worthy as a ALR screen at all as I see it.

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post #16 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Too bad you don't have some Black Flame or Silver Fire there. All the caveats your describing are addressed with those paint apps.

If one was to compare something, the Silver Screen looks like RS-MaxxMudd or Silver Fire N/C, but the latter two don't exhibit all that grain if adjusted for such.

The Carl's just isn't worthy as a ALR screen at all as I see it.
I wish i had sf to try and compare, its a large leap to even make a "test" as it would require all the same amount to make the full screen. You never did answer me as to what material for the screen would be best, as i understand it SF is translucent so would Carls standar black out cloth (the just cloth) work well? the sample i have has no vinyl to it.
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post #17 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NU_FTW View Post
I wish i had sf to try and compare, its a large leap to even make a "test" as it would require all the same amount to make the full screen. You never did answer me as to what material for the screen would be best, as i understand it SF is translucent so would Carls standar black out cloth (the just cloth) work well? the sample i have has no vinyl to it.
Carl's Flexi-White is best, being totally opaque and possessing a extremely smooth surface.

BOC needs to be primed and sanded first.

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post #18 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 06:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Carl's Flexi-White is best, being totally opaque and possessing a extremely smooth surface.

BOC needs to be primed and sanded first.
don't exhibit all that grain if adjusted for

What do you mean by this. If adjusted for?
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post #19 of 31 Old 02-16-2016, 06:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NU_FTW View Post
don't exhibit all that grain if adjusted for

What do you mean by this. If adjusted for?
As I stated earlier (...but less verbosely...) in your Thread, for those who want as much ALR performance as possible, yet whose vision is sensitive to the "Graininess" effect that metallic content can introduce, adding a small additional amount of UPW (paint) can eliminate the graininess with almost no real reduction of consequence in ALR performance.

That applies to Silver Fire, Black Flame X1I has no such graininess...at all. Nada.

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As I stated earlier (...but less verbosely...) in your Thread, for those who want as much ALR performance as possible, yet whose vision is sensitive to the "Graininess" effect that metallic content can introduce, adding a small additional amount of UPW (paint) can eliminate the graininess with almost no real reduction of consequence in ALR performance.

That applies to Silver Fire, Black Flame X1I has no such graininess...at all. Nada.
Ha, any military discount on that paint! X1I? Ideal world i would just do that, but then i have to spend 90 on screen and 60+ on spray and 20+ on hardware/lumber That is a significant increase in cost. SF i can source for ~100 less likely. Thats the real kicker. Its not that i dont WANT better, but i want the best within my limited budget the max total cost of ALL materials etc is in the 250 range not 350 range.
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depending on the brightness of your projector...you may need to adjust the rs-maxxmudd or silver fire mix by 4-6oz of additional UPW to remove any visible grain...that is, should you decide you want to watch movies from 2 ft away from the screen.

Black Flame X1I does not need to be adjusted for today's brighter pj's...nor does it contain titanium white. It is an entirely different animal altogether. No other ALR screen has as wide of a viewing cone as X1I.
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Except the cost of the sprayer itself, you might be able to get ingredients which give a very similar performance as SilverFire along with a smooth panel up to 98"-diagonal for a combined total of $35-$40.

A panel of Thrifty White up to 4'x8' is around $10-15 from HomeDepot and other hardware stores.
At Walmart's hardware department you can find a $15 quart of DisneyGlidden magnificent metallic (have it shaken but left untinted) which can be mixed with 4oz of ColorPlace flat interior latex which is around $8/quart.

This mix can be thinned with water and strained appropriately according to the SilverFire instructions and sprayed accordingly as directed.

If a similarly inexpensive yet full-sized sample is wanted, I've heard of at least one AVSer having good results attaching a large ~$30 flooring vinyl-like material (smooth side forward) to a wood backing/frame and painting it.
This could also potentially work as the paintable screen surface itself rather than a large sample.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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Except the cost of the sprayer itself, you might be able to get ingredients which give a very similar performance as SilverFire along with a smooth panel up to 98"-diagonal for a combined total of $35-$40.

A panel of Thrifty White up to 4'x8' is around $10-15 from HomeDepot and other hardware stores.
At Walmart's hardware department you can find a $15 quart of DisneyGlidden magnificent metallic (have it shaken but left untinted) which can be mixed with 4oz of ColorPlace flat interior latex which is around $8/quart.

This mix can be thinned with water and strained appropriately according to the SilverFire instructions and sprayed accordingly as directed.

If a similarly inexpensive yet full-sized sample is wanted, I've heard of at least one AVSer having good results attaching a large ~$30 flooring vinyl-like material (smooth side forward) to a wood backing/frame and painting it.
This could also potentially work as the paintable screen surface itself rather than a large sample.
Ill be sticking to 120" + i have a 100" pull down 16:9 white elite screen but after testing on 120 its kinda like once i went this big im not going that small.. appreciate the info, i originally was looking at this as it made a 98" diagonal but once i had my PJ up and mounted and centered and leveled i wanted to just see it on the wall and it looks great this big that i will not be going smaller so didnt even bother mounting in this room (its in the bedroom where i did initial testing)
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Ill be sticking to 120" + i have a 100" pull down 16:9 white elite screen but after testing on 120 its kinda like once i went this big im not going that small.. appreciate the info, i originally was looking at this as it made a 98" diagonal but once i had my PJ up and mounted and centered and leveled i wanted to just see it on the wall and it looks great this big that i will not be going smaller so didnt even bother mounting in this room (its in the bedroom where i did initial testing)
I agree going to a smaller screen-size wouldn't be much fun at your seating-distance. I meant the ThriftyWhite can make a great tester panel for painting to see if it looks how you'd want it to without spending much in-case even that small amount of corner-dimming is more than you'd like.

If you like it enough, then spending the $30-70 for flooring or flexi-white plus ~$35 lumber would be easier. If you don't like how the paint looks, the TW surface was only $10-15 instead of $65-100.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

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@NU_FTW

much of what you are experiencing has to do with perception and because of small samples not being a full representation of how a full screen performs... ...what you're mind often gives you is a deception of that perception.

in order to get a true gauge of two samples and their performance... you really have to compare them in a totally controlled theater... ie a theater more perfect than most of us have access to. in this pristine condition the color, hue, and saturation of the alr sample and the white sample should be barely unrecognizable... with the exception that the higher gain screen will have a higher upper level white... and vise versa the darkest colored screen visually (when unprojected) will have a deeper bottom end black during bright scenes.
Deception of Perception I like that.

There is no mysterious mental thing that happens causing us to suffer from the deception of perception and no need to test samples in a perfect room when the sample is supposed to work with ambient light. Likewise the idea is to see the reflected light not the color of the underlying screen that should have no color. All the neutral grays ranging from black to white are devoid of colors and the reason we use them for screens. They are used for their reflective and absorptive qualities. The reflective properties have a component of dispersion. The only other ingredient a screen can have as to how it works is texture.

Perception happens within a screen image in a movie and it can also happen when you put a small sample of a darker screen on top of a brighter screen. Our eyes adjust (pupil size) (Iris) (Aperture) to the overall brightness they are taking in. our eyes don’t have little boxes like the iPhone has that finds the face in the picture and adjusts the light to be perfect for the face in the photo. Our eyes have one big box that takes in all of our vision and adjusts accordingly. If 95% of the screen is the bright white wall image and 5% is the dark sample the eyes adjust mostly to suit the brighter and bigger light source. When you close an aperture you limit light coming in to the eye with less light coming in from an image the overall image is adjusted to be correct leaving the small sample looking dark.

Likewise when you have a bright image on your screen with a small area of darkness the area of darkness looks darker and that is perceived contrast. If you go up to the screen with a light meter and measure black or white the meter has no iris and always measures the brightness the same and will give you the true contrast ratio of the image. That means little in a bright image as our perception of contrast caused by our eyes correcting relays dark blacks to the brain.

As soon as we start talking about ambient lighting the idea of perception of contrast has to come into the conversation and actual contrast plays a different role. With darker screens trying to deal with ambient light having the extra lumens to overcome the loss in the screen is just part of it the other part is to have still more lumens to overtake perception. It is really no different than the bright flat screen TV’s with lots of FL’s overcoming our perception.

What the screen is will be what true black is and it will actually be a little less than what the screen is because all projectors spill some light into the black. What we see that screen level of black as will be caused by how wide open our eyes are the wider they are open the less black we will see.

Think about this, the night stars don’t go away during the daytime. They are still up there sending down dots of light. We see them at night because our eyes are wide open and can detect such small amount of light against the lack of light in the black sky.
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backs me up in many respects and factually wrong in many others... ...but never the less, a fun read.
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backs me up in many respects and factually wrong in many others... ...but never the less, a fun read.
I know your belief is that projectors project colored matter or even black matter against the screen and that is what we see. The darker the matter the darker the black looks. If that is still your belief and you work under those assumptions still, you have been successful in making screens with paints that are made from matter. In actuality matter does not contain colors it only contains the property of absorption or reflection of light. A piece of matter that is blue is blue because it absorbs all the spectrum of visible light except blue and reflects blue thus looking blue in our eyes. I know it must be blue because if you cut into it there is blue inside even where there was no light to start with. You see matter as possessing color as its physical properties rather than the illuminates properties being reflected in part.

Please take the time to point out the factually wrong parts I will be happy to correct them.

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again you are wrong on all counts of what you THINK I know.
and your description of blue is ACTUALLY is it should be and certainly what I KNOW and more about then you have any idea. of.

I find great pride in that you follow me around JUST so you can pick certain things I convey only to twist them around to your own way of thinking, interject what you think I know, and then write a book of your own personal opinions and experience with no actual facts to back it up.

but i'll let you have the last word... as always.
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Fact is fact, regardless of white back drop there is a clear difference in the material at various angles when at a proper angle it performs just great but im not going to move my screen into the dining room sot hat i can view at an angle from the couch in the living room (that be silly) And clearly nobody is suggesting that


At this point before i go spending large sums of money on non refundable products im trying to weigh all my options. I know there will be a difference when the entire screen is built but i wanted to mostly figure out what kind of viewing would be possible with the screen samples. SilverScreen from carls passes 95% of the test, all but the grainy look of it. I may give SF a go.


That said, what is the best primer for BOC to "knock" the hairs off and provide the proper backing for the translucent SF paint? something like a Kilz? or something that dries a bit less tacky to make sanding hairs off easier?


Cant see the stars because of light pollution, competing light of a brighter closer nature. This has no effect on the angle of viewing of Carls ALR.

Military discount on X1I? (yup asking again, squeaky wheel gets the grease)
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post #30 of 31 Old 02-17-2016, 10:29 AM
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now that you've pretty much nailed down what you'd like to see in a screen visually...you have a frame of reference to compare or go back to.

with respect to the primer. personally, i'd get a gallon of a quality primer/paint in one. use that to prime your carls or boc (rubber side) with.

as for your other request
for that you'll have to pm MM.
and if he does...well...you know what they say about vegas...
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