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post #1 of 31 Old 05-03-2016, 04:42 PM - Thread Starter
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best DIY formula in place of Goo Systems

I am helping a friend with a project for building a DIY screen. The screen is 120" diagonal, and in a room with practically no ambient light, but with some large white walls so there might be some ambient light bouncing around from that. Projector is a Panasonic AE-8000.

He's seen Goo Systems high contrast +20 used in a similar environment and likes that, but, we're trying to shave some money off the budget. I've been reading about the various formulas like Silver Fire or MaxxMudd, but was wondering if someone had some experience and could chime in about which might be the best formula to go for if we're trying to approximate the Goo High Contrast +20?

I'd prefer something that can be rolled as opposed to sprayed, but spraying is an option too.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 31 Old 05-03-2016, 06:11 PM
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The goo highcontrast+20 appears to work out to about 0.6gain assuming their matte-white paints are around 1.0gain.
It's also not terribly dark-colored and should be around an N7.5shade of grey.

You can make a screen with slightly higher gain and a similar color with the current version of BlackWidow using AAA-fine and flat-"Veil" or a mix of a quart of RalphLauren tintable metallic (used untinted but shaken from HomeDepot) and 10oz of ColorPlace interior flat tinted-"Pebble Grey".

Both are rollable and cost way less than the Goo +20.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #3 of 31 Old 05-04-2016, 09:27 AM
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If your friend has seen Goo and knows that in it's case, Rolling is not a viable option, then he also knows that one needs to spray any such higher performance mix to get the absolute best results.

Using "Slightly Higher Gain" options than one that is 0.6 gain isn't going to satisfy, especially if one wants both improvements in both perceived contrast / Blacks as well as maintaining actual brightness.

To get to that level, Silver Fire or Black Flame are your only paint-able options, and those will in fact need to be sprayed.
RS-MaxxMudd is a good option, but the "roll-able" version (RS-MM-LL) is not going to be as effective as any High Contrast version you've seen.


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post #4 of 31 Old 05-04-2016, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
You can make a screen with slightly higher gain and a similar color with the current version of BlackWidow using AAA-fine and flat-"Veil" or a mix of a quart of RalphLauren tintable metallic (used untinted but shaken from HomeDepot) and 10oz of ColorPlace interior flat tinted-"Pebble Grey".
Thanks, just to clarify, is this the current BlackWidow mix? 1 quart "Veil" to 8 oz AAA fine?

And as per MississippiMan's comment, I know about the spraying.... was just being lazy.
Would spraying a mixture like BlackWidow change its performance at all? Oh, and just for reference the Goo painted screen my friend saw in action was rolled, not sprayed.
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post #5 of 31 Old 05-04-2016, 12:29 PM
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Spraying BW will serve only to avoid the dreaded rollermarks. It will do nothing to improve the performance, such as it is.

That said...it's not an impossible task to manage rolling the 2-stage GOO system, just more difficult than rolling normal Flat paints.

What really needs to be determined is if one wants both improvements in contrast and color without undue loss in brightness. While an argument can and often is made how a particular Projector is supposedly bright enough for a given task, almost always such brightness means lessor performance elsewhere that cannot be accommodated for.

My experience has shown that the presence if extra brightness at either / both the PJ / Screen can always be compensated / adjusted for. However the lack of such with either / both can make it be much harder if not impossible to do so.


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post #6 of 31 Old 05-04-2016, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Well, yes, I suppose the answer is that we are looking for an improved performance in contrast/colour without sacrificing too much brightness. The setup needs to accommodate active 3D as an option, so we don't want to lose too much brightness as the active glasses are already knocking it down some.
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post #7 of 31 Old 05-04-2016, 03:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablodo View Post
Well, yes, I suppose the answer is that we are looking for an improved performance in contrast/colour without sacrificing too much brightness. The setup needs to accommodate active 3D as an option, so we don't want to lose too much brightness as the active glasses are already knocking it down some.
Well then, the overall best route to take would be either Silver Fire (purely DIY) or Black Flame ( purchased Mix ) Both are over 1.0 gain, and both deliver great Contrast and Black levels.

But....................you must spray, so that must also be a consideration to take into account.


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post #8 of 31 Old 05-04-2016, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by pablodo View Post
Thanks, just to clarify, is this the current BlackWidow mix? 1 quart "Veil" to 8 oz AAA fine?

And as per MississippiMan's comment, I know about the spraying.... was just being lazy.
Would spraying a mixture like BlacWidow change its performance at all? Oh, and just for reference the Goo painted screen my friend saw in action was rolled, not sprayed.
Yes, I believe that's the current BlackWidow mix. The hometheatershack forum tends to keep particularly current information on BlackWidow, and it's a good place for really specific information.
The sprayed and the rolled BW screens should give about the same performance, so applying it however you're most comfortable should work well.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #9 of 31 Old 05-04-2016, 08:31 PM
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I covered my BW screen with the DE Abyss fabric (which is very similar to the BFX coating) and can say that there is no comparing the two. I was happy with my BW for close to a decade - but I am ecstatic now.
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post #10 of 31 Old 05-05-2016, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by zora View Post
I covered my BW screen with the DE Abyss fabric (which is very similar to the BFX coating) and can say that there is no comparing the two. I was happy with my BW for close to a decade - but I am ecstatic now.
The DE Abyss and BFX coating have been recently compared and look nothing alike.
BFX was very close with the Elite CineGrey 3D and CarlsALR samples for color and gain (dimmer than the Cinegrey 5D), while DE Abyss has been shown to be MUCH darker-colored than those same samples and is a little lower gain in most versions besides the most recent.
For less money AND no spraying/painting, the CarlsALR material soundly beats BF while giving BFX a good amount of competition as well. For a lighter-colored screen, the original Cinegrey Designer Cut Series at around $65 is also an impressive value for less aggressive light-fighting but less edge-dimming.

I might try to grab a couple pictures, but the difference is huge.
Considering how BF is said to be lighter-colored than BFX, the difference between BF and DE Abyss should be even larger..DE can fight a lot more light and puts less reflections on the surrounding walls/ceiling but will also have the narrower viewing-cone to go with those traits.
BlackWidow will fight less light than BF but it'll give a wider viewing-cone than BF for those seated toward the sides..and BW should look more like the Goo screen because of its more similar shade and gain.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #11 of 31 Old 05-05-2016, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks everyone! I'm trying to source out which formula is going to give me the least amount of headache with buying materials (I'm in Canada) but this has all been really useful!
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post #12 of 31 Old 05-06-2016, 06:24 AM
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Ftoast,

Almost everything you posted is wrong.

Black Flame is an adjustable mix, using Colorant to deepen the shade of Grey to the need at hand. If you were referring to Black Flame N/C (No Colorant) then you should specifically say so, not go on to make a statement that is at best misinformation.

Also, Black Flame X1I, a mix you have no personal experience with, is much darker than BF-N/C. And it is of a higher gain.

And to state that the Carls ALR material "soundly" beats Black Flame (...let alone BFX1I...) is completely false, notwithstanding any lack of real personal observance between the two, or your failing to make note that you were perhaps referring to BF-N/C.
Carls ALR has had more comments alluding to hot spotting, viewing cone limitations, and screen artifacts than it has has glowing accolades. You seem to be willing to grab onto a few posts by a few individuals and use them to make definitive statements while ignoring the posts that are less than receptive, and yet again all while you do not have any degree of personal experience doing some testing of all the referred to applications...you only say you'll "grab" some photos...photos that only come from the previously mentioned few.

Despite how you felt the need to interpret things, Zora simply said the two (DEA- BFX1I) were very similar, he did not say they were exactly alike in shade. Besides that, unless you yourself have viewed both side to side as Zora has, you again should refrain from disputing his opinion and making such defining statements when you really don't know enough about anything concerning either to be able to make such statements.

Lastly, although I cannot be absolutely certain what is was about Zora's post that prompted your response, I suspect it had something to do with his personal "ecstatic" judgement that his current DEA screen was beyond even being compared to his older BW. You have seemed overly quick to refer to a application that is both limited in performance and general acceptance. In truth, only those who do not know of any other choice, or who are convinced by others that BW is somehow worth their consideration based on cost alone, choose it out of hand. Those who have enough knowledge acquired by their own study, or supplied to them by other actual users of SF/BF, seldom settle for such a lessor performing application.

Actual facts...not supposition or conjecture (opinions)

  • Neither SF / BF BFX1I have a narrow/er viewing cone than BW, certainly not enough to matter to anyone who is seated within the confining walls of any room.
  • None of the (directly) above have the reputed "edge dimming" you continually allude to them having. That trait is reserved for the applications that do not share the formulations the aforementioned have.




You continually seem determined to dress down both the potential and performance of SF / BF / BFX1I, choosing either cost, imagined lack of performance differences with other applications, of simplicity of build, when in fact each of those concerns and considerations have been addressed, and anyone who has an interest receives far more help and assistance in dealing with all such things of that nature than they do from any other source.


It's time you started refraining from using the "price" club to try to sway people away from well proven, higher performing applications. It is one thing to state that one cost more than another. It is entirely different when one uses language that purports to say that the price difference is not worth it. If someone ventures to say they do not / cannot afford anything more than a Roller and a can of tinted paint, then yes...they need to be shown what is available. However you do not find anyone, let alone myself trying to persuade them otherwise.



..unless they are getting poor advice that is leading them down a road where they are bound to be disappointed. Only then do I speak up. And it is to be noted that as far as disappointment goes, that seldom..if indeed hardly ever applies to those who do choose SF / BF / BFX1I. And DEA-Flex has been striving to create a product that goes so far as to eliminate every caveat all other such screens exhibit, so in that regard, it to is a cut above the rest and well worth the additional effort and expense.






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Last edited by MississippiMan; 05-09-2016 at 09:00 PM.
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post #13 of 31 Old 05-06-2016, 05:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok. After much hunting around for formulas and ingredients and reading some more, I think I may bite the bullet and opt for spraying. I have a sprayer, so really have no excuse to not use it. MississippiMan, given the parameters I outlined above, which of the RS-MaxxMudd formulas would be the way to go? Sounds like not the LL, so just the standard basic v2.5 formula or the retro?
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post #14 of 31 Old 05-06-2016, 10:26 PM
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I would suggest Silver Fire N/C, since essentially they are almost the same, except the current components do effect a darker shade of Grey.

As an alternative to the older RS-MaxxMudd LL & Retro formulas, below is a version hereafter called Silver Fire v2.5 N/C

Rustoleum Metallic Accents – White Pearl 24 oz.
Rustoleum Metallic Accents – Sterling Silver 16oz.
Behr 1850 UPW Flat 16 oz.
Rustoleum's Ultimate Polyurethane Matte Finish (water based) 16 oz.
Distilled Water 32 oz.

The "N/C" designation means that "No Colorant" is added.



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post #15 of 31 Old 05-07-2016, 06:56 AM
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Dora simply said the two (DEA- BFX1I) were very similar, he did not say they were exactly alike in shade. Besides that, unless you yourself have viewed both side to side as Zora has, you again should refrain from disputing his opinion.
Zora viewed SF/BlackFlame and his DE-flex side by side? This I didn't know. I was thought he's only compared DE-flex and BW.
Spoiler!

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

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Not to say SilverFireNC would be a terrible choice..it's a fine choice for keeping brightness high in 3D compared to a lower-gain mix and it's also able to keep a brighter far off-axis image than the darker and more aggressive screens. Plus it costs less than any of the premade screens for anyone who already owns an appropriate sprayer which appears to be the case here.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #17 of 31 Old 05-07-2016, 07:35 AM
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...BW has a considerbly more narrow viewing cone than SF. It's not even close.

The one person who mentioned he had a SF...we are nearly 100 percent now that he never made one. It appears he made a silverscreen screen instead.

...so yes carls alr beats behrs silverscreen is the correct statement.
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Originally Posted by pb_maxxx View Post
...BW has a considerbly more narrow viewing cone than SF. It's not even close.

The one person who mentioned he had a SF...we are nearly 100 percent now that he never made one. It appears he made a silverscreen screen instead.

...so yes carls alr beats behrs silverscreen is the correct statement.
If you want to completely discount the actual measurements taken showing that BW has a significantly wider viewing-cone than SilverFire as well as the side-by-side comparison results which back that up, I guess you could say that. The evidence is against your statement though.

As for the only person so far who mentioned using both SF and CarlsALR, you'll probably want to discuss that with them if you're nearly 100% sure they were mistaken or lying. That sounds like quite the accusation.

Nonetheless SilverFireNC should perform quite well here since a 1.0gain or higher grey screen won't have a problem keeping the ae8000 above 20ftL on a ~43ftSquare or 120"-diagonal screen while also fighting the room's reflections from surrounding surfaces..this should translate to excellent 3D brightness and an overall good-looking picture.

At any rate, pablodo, you'll want to do a bit of reading (or talking to MississippiMan or PBmaxx) about the proper "duster" coat method of spraying paint if you aren't already familiar with it. This and then a bit of practice with your sprayer (along with buying or creating a suitably smooth surface) will be important for your upcoming screen.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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...one singular site with a couple of people who have proven to say and improperly make a so call silver fire screen then measure it to misconstrue the results and even if the results were different have been known to redo such tests until they show a different result do not make bw a wider viewing cone. These same people will do and say anything to bad mouth MM. The facts absolutely do not exist.

Even your poorly improperly done sf, carls comparison easily showed the castrated sf with greater on axis gain AND greater viewing cone than carls arl...and yet you would blatantly state otherwise. BW, your mixes, and carls alr fall off a very rapid rate off axis and far greater than Sf. BW is on par as your mixes which I do agree is a step above Carl's alr.

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Spoiler!

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

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post #21 of 31 Old 05-07-2016, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
The DE Abyss and BFX coating have been recently compared and look nothing alike.
BFX was very close with the Elite CineGrey 3D and CarlsALR samples for color and gain (dimmer than the Cinegrey 5D), while DE Abyss has been shown to be MUCH darker-colored than those same samples and is a little lower gain in most versions besides the most recent.
For less money AND no spraying/painting, the CarlsALR material soundly beats BF while giving BFX a good amount of competition as well. For a lighter-colored screen, the original Cinegrey Designer Cut Series at around $65 is also an impressive value for less aggressive light-fighting but less edge-dimming.

I might try to grab a couple pictures, but the difference is huge.
Considering how BF is said to be lighter-colored than BFX, the difference between BF and DE Abyss should be even larger..DE can fight a lot more light and puts less reflections on the surrounding walls/ceiling but will also have the narrower viewing-cone to go with those traits.
BlackWidow will fight less light than BF but it'll give a wider viewing-cone than BF for those seated toward the sides..and BW should look more like the Goo screen because of its more similar shade and gain.
You are sooooooo SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO wrong. Carls ALR and ES Cinegrey 5D are HORRIBLE options not even in the same class as BF X1i. Color with no projection is similar but color clarity brightness screen uniformity BF X1i wins HANDS DOWN even if say the color quality were as off as Carls ALR or ES Cinegrey's the viewing cone still sucks for both of those two where BF X1i owns being able to be viewed from anywhere without horrible screen dimming. Corner dimming (if you dont want to call it hot spotting since iknow your mixes ftoast are very similar to carls alr and ES alr screens, but it is hot spotting) BF X1i wins
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post #22 of 31 Old 05-08-2016, 06:24 AM
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NU_FTW, did you get some pictures of any of those samples centered on your BFX1 like the other poster who painted two (first wrong and then right) and showed the samples looking very similar to the paint?
The centered samples shown from the side would give a nice comparison of the off-axis performance you're talking about regardless of the person's throw-ratio.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #23 of 31 Old 05-10-2016, 10:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
The goo highcontrast+20 appears to work out to about 0.6gain assuming their matte-white paints are around 1.0gain.
It's also not terribly dark-colored and should be around an N7.5shade of grey.

You can make a screen with slightly higher gain and a similar color with the current version of BlackWidow using AAA-fine and flat-"Veil" or a mix of a quart of RalphLauren tintable metallic (used untinted but shaken from HomeDepot) and 10oz of ColorPlace interior flat tinted-"Pebble Grey".

Both are rollable and cost way less than the Goo +20.
Hey Ftoast

In this suggestion, you mentioned ColorPlace "Pebble Grey", which i can't seem to get here in Canada. Would using Dulux "Veil" be fine here too? Or "Icon Grey" which is suggested in this post? I'm assuming that's the basic formula from which your suggestion in this thread came from. Or do you have any Sherwin Williams equivalent suggestions for grey shades (they are closest to me )
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post #24 of 31 Old 05-10-2016, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pablodo View Post
Hey Ftoast

In this suggestion, you mentioned ColorPlace "Pebble Grey", which i can't seem to get here in Canada. Would using Dulux "Veil" be fine here too? Or "Icon Grey" which is suggested in this post? I'm assuming that's the basic formula from which your suggestion in this thread came from. Or do you have any Sherwin Williams equivalent suggestions for grey shades (they are closest to me )
Glidden "Veil" and "Pebble Grey" are actually the exact same color..it took me a little while to notice this despite having the color cards and tint formulas in a pile together. I think a forum member pointed it out to me.

If you're looking for a Veil-like Sherwin Williams color, SW-7649 "Silverplate" is quite close. It's a little warmer, but that's a good thing since mixing with the metallic often gives the results a cooler tint and the two balance out.

The roughly shade darker Sherwin Williams SW-7650 "Ellie Gray" should give a slightly darker-colored mix than the Goo HighContrast+20 without losing much of the off-axis brightness.

All of these would dim the image a lot if used without metallic mixed in, so I hope you weren't planning to use the grey alone.

I've been using super cheapo ColorPlace flat-grey mixed into RalphLauren tintable metallic, so the Delux or Sherwin might end up thicker and work better with a higher ratio of metallic:flat-grey than the 3:1 that works well with the ColorPlace paints...particularly if you'll be spraying which should cut down on little paintjob flaws and let you get away with something like a 4:1 or 5:1 metallic:flat-grey ratio to keep gain higher for 3D.

If you prefer to roll, going with a ratio above 3:1 or 4:1 can become pretty tricky for keeping little flaws under control.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 05-10-2016 at 05:58 PM.
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post #25 of 31 Old 05-10-2016, 06:41 PM
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pablodo,

You'll be going backwards with any of the Greys you recently mentioned, had refered to you. All will lose gain, some appreciably, and all with to a greater / lessor extent crush colors and result in a loss of a dynamic image.



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post #26 of 31 Old 05-10-2016, 08:36 PM - Thread Starter
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If i go this route it would be with a metallic added, not the plain grey paint.
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post #27 of 31 Old 05-11-2016, 05:56 AM
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Because it is a poor substitute. Will is provide a result you can possibly live with. Probably...if your expectations are low enough. But if you want the best possible performance you must step up into more advanced mixes.

These more simple mixes are simply efforts to achieve parity at less expense and effort, and while that's a commendable thing to aspire to, too often no credit or mention is given to the real differences performance-wise...or is misstated or ignored for personal reasons. And they do not achieve the level of performance in comparison. As I said...you might be satisfied with a simpler mix...and/or you might be forced to consider those mixes for whatever reasons, logistical, expense...whatever. But none of that will change the fact that there is a better solution.

There is a DIY version and a pre-made version, and both are readily available so no crass comments about promotion need be proffered by anyone trying to swing that club about.

You yourself asked for something comparable to GOO...a "BEST" substitution as it were. You didn't say you wanted anything instead of....and believe me, the simpler mixes are exactly that...just something "instead of".

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post #28 of 31 Old 05-11-2016, 10:24 AM
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Spoiler!

MississippiMan, have you actually used any of my tintable-metallic:flat-grey combinations or James_of_AZs BlackPearl/GreyPearl/SilverPearlST, or even CarlsALR material?

You've got a lot of negativity towards these simpler metallic mixes when their simplicity and lower price stems from sensible things like using a single can of tintable metallic rather than trying to make a can of silver+pearl+a tube of gold balance out in a similar fashion.

The simpler mixes jump straight to whichever shade is desired by having the store tint the paint or by grabbing a pair of paints to mix at home instead of mixing white with the silver+pearl+gold and sometimes separate tubes of red+yellow+green+blue and then spraying just the precise amount where it's not too patchy but not too thick where it becomes too dark-colored.
With the simple mix you don't have to sweat about the number of coats as long as coverage is achieved and the result is smooth since the color is already the one chosen rather than starting a bit darker and aiming to keep the result lighter by making a precisely thin coating over a required white or light-grey surface.

Before I had a HVLP paint-gun, I carefully rolled thin coatings of SilverFire over smooth, white panels..several different versions on multiple panels..then posted pictures and videos of those panels side-by-side simple mixes of a similar shade and gain.
Their performance was virtually identical, but the simpler mix took less time to mix, less stores to shop and cost less than half as much money to put together.
Now that I have a HVLP paint-gun I might eventually repeat some of those comparisons using sprayed samples, but I'm hesitant to spend the money on the SilverFire ingredients all over again simply to see it likely perform the same as a much simpler and cheaper solution once again.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #29 of 31 Old 05-11-2016, 10:40 AM
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^^Now, despite all that, I DID already say I agree that SilverFire NC should work well for this application.

I think it's a little expensive for what it offers, but not enough to be world-ending, and it should work well for 3D.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #30 of 31 Old 05-16-2016, 12:12 PM
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Quick and easy solution would be Movie Night Projection Screen paint. I ordered mine online from their store and while I ordered the white, they have a gray that could be used in rooms with ambient light. The price was wayyyyy cheaper than screen goo and it went on easy with a brush and roller. Can't overthink something that is that easy.
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