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post #1 of 58 Old 07-05-2016, 07:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Building Screen frame or Border

Hello,

I was planning to paint my wall and I may still do that, but the wife is having an absolute fit about painting the wall. At the very least, I would have to build a border frame, there is no way she is going to go for the tape border that I was planning to do. At the worst case I will have to build a frame to hang on the wall.

I wanted to get some advice on how to do this either way. My problem is with the layout of the room, I need the screen as close to the left wall as possible because of the way the seating is. So I was going to buy a silver ticket screen, but the border is way too big.

I'm shooting for around 1 inch border if possible. So if I make a border and wrap with velvet, what do I use? The screen is 175 inches so ideally I need a piece of wood 14 feet long or so so I don't have to join two pieces. I've been looking at lowes and homedepot and not really sure what to get. I assume I can just screw it together with brackets and hang on the wall, but I"m not sure of the integrity with it being so big. Any advice on what wood to use?a

If the wife won't go for the border, I will need to build a frame. I'm thinking the Carls flexi grey material as its relatively cheap and they have 175 inch size. I looked on the website and they have a guide to build the frame. They are using 1x4 wood which I believe I can get at home depot and I believe its 3/4 inch actual thickness. I really don't want the screen off the wall as the seating area can't move but I guess that will be acceptable. They seem to staple to the front and use backband moulding around the frame. The problem is from what I can see, no one sells backband moulding at the store. Home depot seems to have it, but online only. Are there alternatives to this and anything that would come in 14 foot lengths? Still this creates the problem of they use backband and then 2 inch tape. I"m looking for a way to keep the border at 1 inch ideally with wrapped velvet so it looks nice.
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post #2 of 58 Old 07-05-2016, 08:28 AM
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Hey Rob,

I 'am new(1st post)here but I have been going through this thread here which has a ton of information.
**Tried posting a link to MississippiMan Thread from years ago, because it has a lot of information, however I can't bc you need at least 5 post =D **


What I think they do and I will keep an eye on this thread to see if I am correct is they attached the border to the side of the frame instead of on top. And they use finishing nails to attach it to the wall. I will be making my own screen as well but I am planning on using the cinegray 3d( I get a good amount of ambient light which I will try to reduce it as much as I can but this will be a multi-room) after reading a bunch of reviews from that versus the carl's.


And I will try to bundle it up into one project =D.

I have been wondering what most people here use to mount thei screen to the wall, since I really want mine as flush as I can.
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post #3 of 58 Old 07-05-2016, 12:21 PM
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robl45,

Recently, I used 1-1/4" x 3/8" Pine Lattice wrapped in Carls Tape to achieve a nearly Border-less look. It worked great.

You could also forgo using a screen material and focus on getting the wall well prepared and smoothed so that you could simply paint the entire wall.

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post #4 of 58 Old 07-05-2016, 12:30 PM
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mykebr,

You don't have to post the entire link....and/or if you paste / type it in the body of a Post, while it my not be an active link, it will show up as text that itself can be cut / pasted into the address bar and it will work then.

As far as your own project, give some additional details and let's make sumpthin' happen!

BTW, there are better choices than Cinegray 3D if you really want decent ambient light performance.

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post #5 of 58 Old 07-05-2016, 02:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
robl45,

Recently, I used 1-1/4" x 3/8" Pine Lattice wrapped in Carls Tape to achieve a nearly Border-less look. It worked great.

You could also forgo using a screen material and focus on getting the wall well prepared and smoothed so that you could simply paint the entire wall.
She is not down with painting the wall. I'm trying to get border over painted wall approved, but she is strange. Giant screen hanging on wall apparently okay. Painting wall to look like screen is a "marriage ender".

I saw your thing on velvet wrapping, that seems relatively easy enough and from the detail on Carl's site, making the frame seems easy enough, I'm just having trouble contemplating how the border will go on and how I can make it about an inch or less. Right now I'm at 172 inches on the wall and I'd like to get an extra inch on the left and go another 1 1/2 on the right to make the full 175. Plus as I said, the way the seating is, I can't push the seating any more to the right, I already snuck an extra 1/2 foot and the wife isnt really thrilled how the seating looks now.
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post #6 of 58 Old 07-05-2016, 05:19 PM
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You might consider wrapping a wider Trim Border material with Velvet, then insetting that Border behind the leading edge of whatever Screen Substrate on a Frame you choose*. You could get / gain up to 2" additional Screen surface and wind up with a 3/4" (...or even 1/2" ) Black surround.

* Personally I suggest / recommend Flexi-White if your going Gray, because painting on a higher gain, Neutral Gray that will give you the very best results both for color correctness & clarity and gain-wise. And at 175" your needing all the gain you can muster, and the Flexi-Grey is at very most 0.8 gain )




Sumpthin' to cornsider.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
You might consider wrapping a wider Trim Border material with Velvet, then insetting that Border behind the leading edge of whatever Screen Substrate on a Frame you choose*. You could get / gain up to 2" additional Screen surface and wind up with a 3/4" (...or even 1/2" ) Black surround.

* Personally I suggest / recommend Flexi-White if your going Gray, because painting on a higher gain, Neutral Gray that will give you the very best results both for color correctness & clarity and gain-wise. And at 175" your needing all the gain you can muster, and the Flexi-Grey is at very most 0.8 gain )




Sumpthin' to cornsider.
Not sure I understand. How would I inset the border behind the screen? The fabric staples to the front of the screen. I can't have the screen extend out more than quarter inch so I'm guessing border needs to go on top unless I'm not understanding.
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post #8 of 58 Old 07-05-2016, 06:04 PM
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Why does the material have to be stapled to the front? That's really not something seen done hardly "ever" except under the most extreme of extenuating circumstances

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post #9 of 58 Old 07-05-2016, 06:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Why does the material have to be stapled to the front? That's really not something seen done hardly "ever" except under the most extreme of extenuating circumstances
Carl's material is 86 x 153. No way to really wrap it and they show it stapled to the front. Even if I did manage to wrap it. If I put the border in back. The screen Will come out further and we are already pretty close to the screen. I'd guess currently we are about 14 to 14.5 feet from screen. I'd really prefer to build the frame out of thin aluminum bar or something but that doesn't seem feasible. I suppose I can just buy some back band online and wrap that. I suppose if I need to fit the 8 foot length together with a bracket, that would be fine since it's wrapped, but wrapping the back band probably out of my skill range.
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post #10 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 05:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
mykebr,

You don't have to post the entire link....and/or if you paste / type it in the body of a Post, while it my not be an active link, it will show up as text that itself can be cut / pasted into the address bar and it will work then.

As far as your own project, give some additional details and let's make sumpthin' happen!

BTW, there are better choices than Cinegray 3D if you really want decent ambient light performance.
I should've thought of just pasting the link.. was at work and kind just froze I guess...
Don't want to hijack someones post.. But I will definitely take you up on your offer...
Let me get some pictures together and upload them to another place until I get 5 posts here =D
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post #11 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 06:04 AM
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I've seen ppl calling you MM in previous post so I'll go ahead and do the same since that's heck of a long username =D

MM,

my living room is a little differently shaped then most that I've seen so the pictures are probably going to help the most. Keep in mind that behind me there's a slider door and a big windows which I have already ordered blinds for, which should help with the lighting. I know the setup on the windows to the left isn't the best but I am working on getting the wife to let's say "agree" with maybe darker ones. I attached a picture of the measurements and the epson setup program. My initial idea was making the screen 107" x 60" which would take up pretty much the whole wall, and placing the projector on the beam(the wall where the screen is mounted is much higher 3FT+ then where the beam is. So after doing some calculations and hoping I am right I will have to lower my screen about 3" on the wall which should make it fit perfectly with the Kanto mount that I want to use with the 2045 specially since it doesn't have vertical lens adjustment)that you can see on the ceiling. The beam is about 11' from the projector wall which is just about what I need to get the picture that size. But after seeing an older post I was thinking of using the velcro idea, reducing the screen to 105" x 59" and having a 2" border(already ordered the velvet from syfabrics) mounted around the frame to keep a flush look.
Let me list my initial list w/ the materials that I am planning to use and then please throw some knowledge on it.

Epson 2045 (Want to be able to game and from reviews I think this will be able to do well/Lumens seem to be decent as well)
Kanto - Ceiling Mount - P101W
1 x 4 x 10(Pine) - for the horizontal structure
1 x 3 x 6(Pine) - for the vertical structure
1 x 2 x 8(HD -Store SKU # 1000018463) - for the frame/ hopefully they have something longer so I can just have them cut to size at HD/Lowe's for the horizontal part)
Black Velvet from Syfabrics
French Cleat(HD -Store SKU # 180969) - I was going to use heavy duty picture frame holders but I thought I might like the cleats best from what I've read
Cinegrey 3D screen
amazon.com/Elite-Screens-Designer-135-inch-ZRM-135H-CINEGREY3D/dp/B01CX3AILC/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467805627&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=cinegray+3d

Pictures are on the link below

drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B7FIWgixVvVvdDN3dzR2UzlKb1U&usp=sha ring
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post #12 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 06:13 AM
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I forgot to mention to hold the frame I am planning on using L brackets to hold the mitered edges and T brackets for the middle vertical pieces.
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post #13 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 08:37 AM
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Hi,
A few things to consider.

I used to Miter all my "Frame" corners (...still do all Wrapped Trim that way...) but after I tried using a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig I haven't resorted to doing so, and using Simpson Strong-Tie Braces anymore. Besides, when your using 1x3 or 1x4 lumber, you cannot use short enough screws (3/4" that have coarse Threads).

Mitered Corners must be "exactly" correct, and that can take some doing for many, even those with powered Miter Saws. Making accurate length "Straight" cuts and joining overlapping ends suddenly makes good sense if a Kreg is employed.

The Kreg shown below costs $99.00 at Home Depot.
Here is a picture example below, and a link to the same Kit on Amazon too.
https://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K4-Pocket-Hole-System/dp/B001DYFISG/








Also, using Pine instead of Poplar for the Frame is risky, as it's not just hard to find straight enough pieces, the Pine splinters / splits too easily, won't hold Staples as securely, and worst of all, is subject to warping and twisting over time...braces or no. Will it work? Yeah...but to me it's worth the price difference to make potential issues go away, just as using a Kreg to assure having a perfectly "diagonally" squared Frame is worth that rice of admission.


No need to use a Store Bought French Cleat. Apply that money to the Poplar / Kreg and use 1 x 8 Poplar cut in 1/2 diagonally instead. It will allow the Frame to sit completely flush against the wall if applied as in the diagram below.






The last diagram above is for a larger sized screen. You can get along with just two upright 1 x 2s set apart 40" from center and the French Cleat attached between them. The other half of the French Cleat on the wall is only 34" wide...but that is much wider than any store-bought version.
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post #14 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 09:52 AM - Thread Starter
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http://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-Jig-...m-R3/202269070 I was planning on using a basic one like this. Will that not do the job? and using 1x4 wood like they recommend on carl's site, will there be a problem with the supports in the middle of the screen or is the material thick enough that it won't be an issue? As for the metal cleats, the ones I seem to have found seem like they will sit flush as they appear to mount inward. I'm still at a loss of what to do for a border as backband seems to be the best but covering it with velvet appears challenging. I like the idea of the backband for the border as unlike flat covered velvet, it just sits on the ends and no measuring to make sure its sitting correctly.

As for the stapling to the front, the problem is the Carl's flexi stuff only comes in 86 inch width and the screen is 85.75. From talking to carls I understand there is a little stretch so I can probably get another inch out of it. So if I staple it right near the edges, I should be able to cover it with some type of border and end up with the 85.75 height. Apparently they also bigger width but then it gets significantly more expensive for the fabric and ridiculously expensive to have it shipped on a roll.
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post #15 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 01:30 PM
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Oh crap.

The Flexi has WAY more stretch-ability than 1" More like 3-4" in every direction from a given point.

You do need to reconsider the build design. Use 1x3s on edge for the main perimeter Frame, 2x2s for the centralized Uprights.

The issue with any Metal French Cleat is that they only come in a maximum size of 16", and it is neither easy nor very applicable to try to adjust the screen right or left of center.


And ya know, you could wrap 1 x 2s with Velvet and then attach to the sides of the Frame, covering the material / staples and leave yourself with just a 3/4" Edged Trim.

Lastly, that version of the Kreg can work, but that "Round thing" you see....that is for using a C-Clamp to hold it in place while you drill. The Clamp does NOT come with it.

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post #16 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 01:49 PM - Thread Starter
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That would be great. Carl himself said 87 inches max on 86 inch x 153 flexi.

It has to be 1x3 or 1x4. Trust me we are already too close to the screen, but I ain't going smaller. I'd kind of like to go bigger but the seating screws that up and as it is, I have one projector that can hit the screen size from the distance. I see they sell 1x2 in 16 feet. So if I could wrap this around the side, that would work. How the heck I'm getting 16 feet of wood home is another story. But it seems that this could work okay. One other question, maybe wrong thread, but I'm looking at the projectors and I see the lenses seem to be inset a bit in the projector like on the HT2050. Is the throw distance from the lense inside? I'm going for the Viewsonic 7835 which will easily hit the 175 screen from my throw distance, but the HT2050 is right on the edge and that would be my backup. I could hit the distance from wall to wall but the extra lets call it 1 inch from the wall puts me right at the edge. according to the specs I need 14'7 for the ht2050 and I have 15,7 from the wall. 15'6 if you count the screen. that leaves 11 inches and the projector is 11 inches deep from what I can tell. I'll need at least an inch for the plug so if it goes from where the lenses is recessed in the body I could just about hit the mark.

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Oh crap.

The Flexi has WAY more stretch-ability than 1" More like 3-4" in every direction from a given point.

You do need to reconsider the build design. Use 1x3s on edge for the main perimeter Frame, 2x2s for the centralized Uprights.

The issue with any Metal French Cleat is that they only come in a maximum size of 16", and it is neither easy nor very applicable to try to adjust the screen right or left of center.


And ya know, you could wrap 1 x 2s with Velvet and then attach to the sides of the Frame, covering the material / staples and leave yourself with just a 3/4" Edged Trim.

Lastly, that version of the Kreg can work, but that "Round thing" you see....that is for using a C-Clamp to hold it in place while you drill. The Clamp does NOT come with it.
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post #17 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 01:55 PM
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I used metal french cleats because i have 2 small children and didnt want the screen to fall if it got bumped. Yes they bind more when you are getting the screen initially put in place but are a heck of a lot more secure than just wood resting on wood essentially. It takes a decent love tap to move the screen i even did all 4 corners for extra measure but had to release one bottom corner because the wall wasnt true which was forcing the screen to bow out and thus distorting the image.
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post #18 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 03:36 PM - Thread Starter
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So went to home depot to look at wood. No way 14 feet is getting my car or on my car, so I would have to join the boards which makes it easier as I could get 8 foot pieces. Is Poplar the best choice? Can I join them with the Kreg Jig or is doweling better? Should I use like 1x6 instead of 1x4 for strength? Would it get ridiculously heavy at that point?
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MM,

thank you for all the info.
To clarify a few things I have some questions
Are the pictures of the wood after using the Kreg on the wood of a previous frame you have made or just an example of how the kreg works? I have a friend that has one so I wouldn't have to buy it. The reason I ask is that it seems the way it was screwed my screen would actually be 3"/4" from the wall and if I do that I wouldn't get the size that I want.

Also you said you would probably recommend something better then the 3D screen after seeing the pictures of my living room what would be your recommendation for a screen?

As far as the french cleat I thought about making it as well but like I said i would want to lay it on the 1" side and the cleats are about $8 ea. so I'll have to deal.

As far as the border should I make the screen a bit smaller and mount it around the frame with finished nails or the velcro idea that I mentioned would work?
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post #20 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mykebr View Post
MM,

thank you for all the info.
To clarify a few things I have some questions
Are the pictures of the wood after using the Kreg on the wood of a previous frame you have made or just an example of how the kreg works? I have a friend that has one so I wouldn't have to buy it. The reason I ask is that it seems the way it was screwed my screen would actually be 3"/4" from the wall and if I do that I wouldn't get the size that I want.
Everything I post is something I made.
The screen is usually made of 1 x 3 *2.5"*(1 image was 1 x 4 *3.5"*) and always "on edge", so yes, the surface of the screen is standing off the wall by whatever depth of Wood is used.

However of a proper French Cleat is employed, the Frame itself is always flush against the wall, top & Bottom

Quote:
Also you said you would probably recommend something better then the 3D screen after seeing the pictures of my living room what would be your recommendation for a screen?
I would, and can, but it would not be appropriate to do so. You can ask me privately though

Quote:
As far as the french cleat I thought about making it as well but like I said i would want to lay it on the 1" side and the cleats are about $8 ea. so I'll have to deal.
I'm not sure you "get" the idea. The wood French Cleat will work great...IF the Frame is made "on edge".

If you want to make the Frame "Flat" then you need a different diagram to work from. It will entail the use of Quarter Round to stand off the screen material from the Frame, and complicate the installation of screen Trim.

But it can be done so.....

Quote:
As far as the border should I make the screen a bit smaller and mount it around the frame with finished nails or the velcro idea that I mentioned would work?
We / you gotta decide exactly how the Frame will be built (On Edge or Flat) and then we can address the Screen Trim.

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post #21 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
So went to home depot to look at wood. No way 14 feet is getting my car or on my car, so I would have to join the boards which makes it easier as I could get 8 foot pieces. Is Poplar the best choice? Can I join them with the Kreg Jig or is doweling better? Should I use like 1x6 instead of 1x4 for strength? Would it get ridiculously heavy at that point?

I'll make up a diagram of how to do it right and post it here late this evening.
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post #22 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 09:59 PM
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MM,

I believe for my liking the flat frame would be better. I think of it as a cleaner look, and would be easier to convince the Mrs.
Also, I am limited to where I can put the projector(on the beam) that being said if the frame pops out the wall 3" - 4" it would probably make my image size smaller. If it's not to much work please help me with the flat mount. I am attaching a couple of pics of how I was thinking.

This is the original video I watched to get some of my idea. I have decided to go with the wood you mentioned and the velvet you also mentioned on other posts.
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post #23 of 58 Old 07-06-2016, 11:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
I'll make up a diagram of how to do it right and post it here late this evening.
Would appreciate that @MississippiMan since in my quest to find >8' poplar at Home Depot has completely failed in my area, I have some quotes from various local lumbar suppliers but they are ~1.5x the cost per foot.

So it's either that or join two smaller pieces that are available at Home Depot togther.
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post #24 of 58 Old 07-07-2016, 04:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
So went to home depot to look at wood. No way 14 feet is getting my car or on my car, so I would have to join the boards which makes it easier as I could get 8 foot pieces. Is Poplar the best choice? Can I join them with the Kreg Jig or is doweling better? Should I use like 1x6 instead of 1x4 for strength? Would it get ridiculously heavy at that point?
Your Frame really needs to be made "On Edge". The 1st coming illustration is that project.

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Originally Posted by LondonBenji View Post
Would appreciate that @MississippiMan since in my quest to find >8' poplar at Home Depot has completely failed in my area, I have some quotes from various local lumbar suppliers but they are ~1.5x the cost per foot.

So it's either that or join two smaller pieces that are available at Home Depot together.
OK....joining must be done in sections for the best results, but each section must be framed "square" and aligned with the other.




mykebar,

Even made Flat, it is more than just advisable that the Screen Material be stood-off the surface of the Frame.

BTW, not really dissin' the Video "too" much when I say the Frame's construction was pretty poor. The choice of Braces showed almost not real understanding of lateral strength needs.I cannot fathom wh they would use tiny Corner Brackets like they did...except due to cost. And "bending" wire Brads over to secure a Brace? Sheesh..........

If only the same effort went into the Frame Build as went into the production of the video.....

Here are a couple diagrams for you to ponder.



The Corners need not be Mitered if your using a Kreg, nor would T-Brackets or Corner Brackets be really required. In the illustration above, a Screen Material "stand off" method is shown on the right.

Below is yet another way of doing it, although it will increase depth by slightly more.

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post #25 of 58 Old 07-07-2016, 05:59 AM - Thread Starter
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I know how it should be done, but on edge isn't happening in my situation. My only concern with flat using 1x4 is wouldn't the whole frame flex as the material is tensioned or is the tension not that strong? As I said before, I could go up in the width of the wood to 1x6, but I don't know if that improves the situation or just makes it really heavy.

Another thought I had this morning was to use 2x2 or 2x4 on edge and staple to the back. Then the screen goes almost flat against the wall. I could use the little rubber feet or whatever to stand it off a slight bit from the wall so the fabric isn't resting right on the wall, Velvet the 2x4 or 4x4 and done. Assuming I use kreg joints at the corners, will the frame be strong enough?

Also for joining, my understanding is dowels glued in are as tough or tougher than the wood itself, but that requires a jig, I don't know what the strength is of the kreg screws to join two long pieces but that seems the best method if you already have a jig.
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post #26 of 58 Old 07-07-2016, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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So Carl's mentioned the progray material that doesn't need stretching that you can staple to the wall. Since the wife is never going to allow stapling to her precious wall and the progray doesn't need tension, could I build a 1x2 on edge frame covered in velvet, staple the progray to the back and hang? Maybe 2x2 for the top and bottom and 1x2 for the sides for added strength? Makes building relatively simple, keeps the wife happy and doesn't require the drywall repair mentioned in my other thread which I'd rather not do because I'd rather not permanently cover the speaker location in case new owners want it, I want it in the future etc.
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post #27 of 58 Old 07-07-2016, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
I know how it should be done, but on edge isn't happening in my situation. My only concern with flat using 1x4 is wouldn't the whole frame flex as the material is tensioned or is the tension not that strong? As I said before, I could go up in the width of the wood to 1x6, but I don't know if that improves the situation or just makes it really heavy.
Please take no offense, but I gotta wonder if you really do know the best way to get it done. There is no other way but the "best" way. Anything else will be a twisty, bendy, saggy mess. We/you don't want that!

The wider material you use, the less likely it will NOT have issues, as such material is intended for Facing, where the majority of it gets nailed into place. A well constructed Frame does not need to be overdone.

The Flexi is a lightweight material that does not need to be stretched tight UNLESS you neglect to specifically ask for it to come on a Roll. You must call the order in to be certain...and make note who takes the order so if it comes folded in a Box anyway you won't have any questions about who pays for return / replacement shipping.


Quote:
Another thought I had this morning was to use 2x2 or 2x4 on edge and staple to the back. Then the screen goes almost flat against the wall. I could use the little rubber feet or whatever to stand it off a slight bit from the wall so the fabric isn't resting right on the wall, Velvet the 2x4 or 4x4 and done. Assuming I use kreg joints at the corners, will the frame be strong enough?
I cannot understand why you would say a on-edge 1x 3 or 1x4 Frame is "not happening" yet then state your thinking about using 2x2s or 2x4s (2x3s?) Your 2x4 Frame will extend out as far as a 1x4 Frame would, yet be over 2x as heavy. Also, any 2x2s at the length you want ...in Pine, will be almost impossible to find straight, and really good Kiln Dried Lumber will cost enough more to matter, and even then still finding perfectly straight pieces will be at best...unlikely.

..........and they do need to be perfectly straight, no bends or twists.

Also, every single Frame I construct of whatever lumber always fits flush against the wall.

Quote:
Also for joining, my understanding is dowels glued in are as tough or tougher than the wood itself, but that requires a jig, I don't know what the strength is of the kreg screws to join two long pieces but that seems the best method if you already have a jig.
The Kreg joints are extremely strong....more so than a Doweled joint. They are also infinitely easier to get the pieces accurately lined up.

With such a large screen, if it is built "on the Flat" it will take at minimum 2 sizable French Cleats to hold it firm and flat to the wall. The best way to do that would be to "Kreg in" two ripped 1 x 8s just under the top Framing Pieces, one part each out toward each end. The other 1/2 of the ripped 1 x 8 s would go on the wall, and be cut to be 6" to 8" shorter, and centered in position so that you can adjust the Frame side-to-side.

Below are two different diagrams, one on "The Flat", and both show designs that will prevent each end from sagging downward. Don't discount that as being a serious issue with any screen, sectional or complete, if the ends are not supported.


On Edge


On The Flat ( w/Joined Center )



That's about all I can do / offer, ways that I know work when extremely large Screens are being considered. It's your choice of course, to try what you might think is best for your circumstances, skill set, work ethic, and budget.
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post #28 of 58 Old 07-07-2016, 11:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robl45 View Post
So Carl's mentioned the progray material that doesn't need stretching that you can staple to the wall. Since the wife is never going to allow stapling to her precious wall and the progray doesn't need tension, could I build a 1x2 on edge frame covered in velvet, staple the progray to the back and hang? Maybe 2x2 for the top and bottom and 1x2 for the sides for added strength? Makes building relatively simple, keeps the wife happy and doesn't require the drywall repair mentioned in my other thread which I'd rather not do because I'd rather not permanently cover the speaker location in case new owners want it, I want it in the future etc.
All that would be fine excepting for the sheer size of what your planning. "ANY" Frame large enough to accommodate the screen size you want, and that is not well fixed on every corner and at Center top & bottom had better be made of extremely straight lumber, perfectly joined or made from continuous stock, and employ a hanging system that will not allow the bottom to pitch out.

I'll tell ya...be it the Wife or yourself, if you place too many roadblocks up or potholes to avoid, you'll never get to where you want to go, or you'll bust a axle getting there. You think the Wife is intractable now, just wait until you get 1/2 way through the process and need to rethink or start all over.

I've seen it happen, and read the Obits. It's never a pretty sight.

BTW, the Pro Gray has a texture that is plainly visible since the surface itself is a high contrast.

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post #29 of 58 Old 07-07-2016, 12:31 PM - Thread Starter
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When I said 2x4 I was talking about doing it on edge and stapling the material to the back so the material would be almost flat on the wall. That way I can actually get a different projector if for some reason I hate the Viewsonic 7835. I don't know if a 2x4 frame with no bracing at 175 inches diagonal would be strong enough. I have never worked with this fabric and have no idea the tension that it has.

For the 1x4 or whatever lying flat, would that not start to curve from the tension? Obviously with center braces it won't move vertically.
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post #30 of 58 Old 07-07-2016, 03:07 PM
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The Flexi (...if bought at the proper size...) only needs just enough tension to come away from the underlying wood supports ( w/a standoff ). Properly braced at top and bottom with both Kreg Joints and T Bracing, and screws all down the double Spine at center as shown, it should hold true and straight.

BTW, none of the Corners are Mitered.

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