Originally Posted by robl45
I know how it should be done, but on edge isn't happening in my situation. My only concern with flat using 1x4 is wouldn't the whole frame flex as the material is tensioned or is the tension not that strong? As I said before, I could go up in the width of the wood to 1x6, but I don't know if that improves the situation or just makes it really heavy.
Please take no offense, but I gotta wonder if you really do know the best way to get it done. There is no other way but the "best" way. Anything else will be a twisty, bendy, saggy mess. We/you don't want that!
The wider material you use, the less likely it will NOT have issues, as such material is intended for Facing, where the majority of it gets nailed into place. A well constructed Frame does not need to be overdone.
The Flexi is a lightweight material that does not need to be stretched tight UNLESS
you neglect to specifically ask for it to come on a Roll. You must call the order in to be certain...and make note who takes the order so if it comes folded in a Box anyway you won't have any questions about who pays for return / replacement shipping.
Another thought I had this morning was to use 2x2 or 2x4 on edge and staple to the back. Then the screen goes almost flat against the wall. I could use the little rubber feet or whatever to stand it off a slight bit from the wall so the fabric isn't resting right on the wall, Velvet the 2x4 or 4x4 and done. Assuming I use kreg joints at the corners, will the frame be strong enough?
I cannot understand why you would say a on-edge 1x 3 or 1x4 Frame is "not happening" yet then state your thinking about using 2x2s or 2x4s (2x3s?) Your 2x4 Frame will extend out as far as a 1x4 Frame would, yet be over 2x as heavy
. Also, any 2x2s at the length you want ...in Pine, will be almost impossible to find straight, and really good Kiln Dried Lumber will cost enough more to matter, and even then still finding perfectly straight pieces will be at best...unlikely.
..........and they do need to be perfectly straight, no bends or twists.
Also, every single Frame I construct of whatever lumber always fits flush against the wall.
Also for joining, my understanding is dowels glued in are as tough or tougher than the wood itself, but that requires a jig, I don't know what the strength is of the kreg screws to join two long pieces but that seems the best method if you already have a jig.
The Kreg joints are extremely strong....more so than a Doweled joint. They are also infinitely easier to get the pieces accurately lined up.
With such a large screen, if it is built "on the Flat" it will take at minimum 2 sizable French Cleats to hold it firm and flat to the wall. The best way to do that would be to "Kreg in" two ripped 1 x 8s just under the top Framing Pieces, one part each out toward each end. The other 1/2 of the ripped 1 x 8 s would go on the wall, and be cut to be 6" to 8" shorter, and centered in position so that you can adjust the Frame side-to-side.
Below are two different diagrams, one on "The Flat", and both show designs that will prevent each end from sagging downward. Don't discount that as being a serious issue with any screen, sectional or complete, if the ends are not supported.
On The Flat ( w/Joined Center )
That's about all I can do / offer, ways that I know work when extremely large Screens are being considered. It's your choice of course, to try what you might think is best for your circumstances, skill set, work ethic, and budget.