Easy FolkArt ALR Paintmix - Page 11 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #301 of 350 Old 03-04-2020, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naps1saps View Post
I'm trying to find the cheapest "try it out" option other than folkart and comparable paints.


Has anyone tried to use Rustoleum petroleum based metallic? It's half the cost at $10 a quart.


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Ole...4100/202097796

If any component in a given "Mix" is Oil Based, they all must be Oil Based.


Oil Based Metallic Paint can be sprayed for it best effect, but at best it is not a DIY friendly application. Toxic Flammable Vapors, extensive glean-up w/Solvents, unforgiving of any mistake.



Trying to use Petroleum based is not new. Car Paints in particular. A semi-popular proponent back last mid-decade was DDogg, but the expense and application considerations were too great to justify the end results. Such Screens had a opaque, highly reflective surface. Unless the application was done to mimic a multi-layered Car finish that has a Matte Clear coat, and the Projected image was presented angular, it was a Hot Spotting mess. Absolutely it had gain and great color...at a time when a few Screens could really make a Projector look better than it should. It just wasn't a balanced approach. Expensive...hard to work with....hard to nail down....and it came with some very real risks involved.



If such a thing would be attempted today, to be truly "cutting edge" it would have to consist of a Clear Matte Lacquer Base, Tinted to a specific shade by the addition of Pearlecent and Silver ground Mica, it would be applied in 6-8 very light layers onto a solid, non-Permeable material, each dried thoroughly between coats, and a Final 2 coats Clear Matte Lacquer


Essentially just like a Custom Car finish...only in a Matte. It was not new, let alone unheard-of. So even being such a PITA, it attracted a relative few but adamant followers.



But don't get any dust on it! Sealed Paint area required.

Commercial Grade Filtration Masks

...........with Forced Flow Filtered space Ventilation.
No Smoking (ie: No Electrical spark potential)

Don't get any moisture in the Spray!
Don't rush! Expect "between coats" dry times of 2-3 hours w/Heat. 6 hours Ambient.


It doesn't stop there. But why keep on making a point?



Nope....once it was shown that Water based Paints could be blended and made semi-translucent, trying to emulate a Car Finish using Petroleum Based Paints became.


......extinct.

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post #302 of 350 Old 03-04-2020, 05:19 PM
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So the Rust-Oleum polyurethane goes by Varathane now at least here in the US. Water based matte is $16.98/qt and $50.98/gal

Oil based is $11.48 and $35.48 respectively.

Seems like water based should be cheaper to me.

Everyone knows 1+1=10
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post #303 of 350 Old 03-05-2020, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by naps1saps View Post
So the Rust-Oleum polyurethane goes by Varathane now at least here in the US. Water based matte is $16.98/qt and $50.98/gal

Oil based is $11.48 and $35.48 respectively.

Seems like water based should be cheaper to me.

Cheaper and more easily used to best effect. But the RustOleum can be found here.....just not in the regular locations it used to be.


You might however want to start a new Thread to post up on. This Thread is dedicated to Ftoast's application and doing so will prevent a hijack. I'm sure it would be appreciated.

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post #304 of 350 Old 03-16-2020, 08:58 PM
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This used:
$14 worth of matte poly
$10 worth of FolkArt GunmetalGrey metallic
A little water
These were mixed in a 1:1:1 ratio (about 10oz FolkArt metallic, 10oz matte poly and 10oz water)
A $40-$50 paint sprayer (Wagner Opti-Stain)

Hi, I'm going to use your mix for my 140" screen, Can I use this paint?
Thanks.
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post #305 of 350 Old 03-16-2020, 08:59 PM
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This used:
$14 worth of matte poly
$10 worth of FolkArt GunmetalGrey metallic
A little water
These were mixed in a 1:1:1 ratio (about 10oz FolkArt metallic, 10oz matte poly and 10oz water)
A $40-$50 paint sprayer (Wagner Opti-Stain)


Hi, I'm going to use your mix for my 140" screen, Can I use this paint?
Thanks.
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post #306 of 350 Old 03-17-2020, 07:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunaa V View Post
This used:
$14 worth of matte poly
$10 worth of FolkArt GunmetalGrey metallic
A little water
These were mixed in a 1:1:1 ratio (about 10oz FolkArt metallic, 10oz matte poly and 10oz water)
A $40-$50 paint sprayer (Wagner Opti-Stain)


Hi, I'm going to use your mix for my 140" screen, Can I use this paint?
Thanks.

The amount you listed will almost assuredly not be enough to adequately cover a 140" diagonal screen. The amounts you listed were suggested in the past for doing a 120" diagonal surface....and for any beginner who does not have enough extra to accommodate a small amount of testing and a practice spray trial, I feel your setting yourself up for a disappointment.

Your certainly not talking about much expense to double the amounts.....and you should.

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post #307 of 350 Old 03-17-2020, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
The amount you listed will almost assuredly not be enough to adequately cover a 140" diagonal screen. The amounts you listed were suggested in the past for doing a 120" diagonal surface....and for any beginner who does not have enough extra to accommodate a small amount of testing and a practice spray trial, I feel your setting yourself up for a disappointment.

Your certainly not talking about much expense to double the amounts.....and you should.
Thank you MississippiMan! Can I use this paint from Home depot? Or is there any paint from home depot.
I only have access to home depot.
Thanks.
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post #308 of 350 Old 03-17-2020, 05:44 PM
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Of course you can! It's the more generally accepted Silver Metallic. Just not for the application listed within this Thread.


What is surprising is that you found it at Home Depot. In most it has been discontinued. When I go looking for it I usually have to resort to getting it from Menards On-line.

Hey....do they have the same Brand in White Pearl?



I will send you a PM with an adjusted mix to consider....hang on, it will be in there soon.

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post #309 of 350 Old 03-17-2020, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Of course you can! It's the more generally accepted Silver Metallic. Just not for the application listed within this Thread.


What is surprising is that you found it at Home Depot. In most it has been discontinued. When I go looking for it I usually have to resort to getting it from Menards On-line.

Hey....do they have the same Brand in White Pearl?



I will send you a PM with an adjusted mix to consider....hang on, it will be in there soon.
Yes Sir! They have it.
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post #310 of 350 Old 03-17-2020, 08:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunaa V View Post
Yes Sir! They have it.

Zounds!


Where do you hail from, anyway?


PM waiting in 5 minutes.

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post #311 of 350 Old 03-17-2020, 08:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gunaa V View Post
Yes Sir! They have it.

Zounds!


Where do you hail from, anyway?


PM waiting in 5 minutes.
Thanks. I’m from Montreal Canada.
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post #312 of 350 Old 03-17-2020, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Gunaa V View Post
Thanks. I’m from Montreal Canada.

Gee....and so many Canucks talk about the RustOleum's unavailability up in the Great White North.


Leave to the French to know a good thing.

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post #313 of 350 Old 04-23-2020, 09:43 AM
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Hello ,

My name is Bill and I am from Greece.

I have read your posts regarding Folkart ALR paint mix and I am at the status of sourcing all the materials.

My setup is a 108" white motorized small textures screen with white color and my projector an ht1075 benq at 3,3 meter away on the ceiling and above from the couch where is the sitting position. Viewing angle is about 15 degrees .

I am driven to use the method and mix as i have ambient light from the projection screen itself not much light around but many reflections to white walls thus blacks are crushed.
I cannot find a way to attach to my setup e.g. Carls ALR screen and keep the motorized screen.

Do you find that painting will produce the desired outcome with my setup ?
My measures now are about 1:1600 contrast from projector and screen gained measured (white) at 1,5 gain.

I am thinking of going with 1:1:1 mix with Folkart gunmetal acrylic paint .
I have found the 667 code in my region - Greece , i am not sure it is the same mentioned in the post as it seems another version 667E exists as well and the bottle says metalic while 667 just says acrylic paint. But it mentions as colour the Metalic Gunmetal Grey . So far it seems the same paint .

For the polyurethane mix i will use this clear matte poly :

which is water based and polyurethane included with a clear colour.

For my screen I seem to calculate about 27oz or 900 ml of mixture just to be safe when testing.
I will not be using white pearl as i cannot seem to find it and i seem to tend towards more black levels.

I am planning on using a spread air pistol from my brother in law with an air pump. I will try to learn how to use it firstly

1) What tips are you recommending for the pistol ? 1,5 mm or 1,0 mm would suffice ?
2) I am attaching my setup and my screen material close-up. Can this material be painted over? It seems that it has many texture.
3) Would the paint have issues when rolled with this mixture ?

drive.google.com/file/d/11Y8kZ-WtTCMoJkAqfma6sVGyzr88YOO1/view?usp=sharing

I would like to thank all of you for your contribution and your time for my questions.

P.S. I hope you like my hanging method its a patent from an friend engineer

Please feel free for any comments and suggestions ,
Thank you very much again ,
Vasilis
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post #314 of 350 Old 04-24-2020, 03:21 AM
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Sorry this is the link to poly seems to some has disappeared while posting -vitex.gr/Product/103/44/en/DIAXYL-PLUS/
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post #315 of 350 Old 05-20-2020, 12:40 AM
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Screen Panel

a newbie here...
From the original post in this thread, what sort of board/panel is it?
- A 4X8 Drywall cutout?
- or a PVC panel?
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post #316 of 350 Old 05-20-2020, 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by abhayms View Post
a newbie here...
From the original post in this thread, what sort of board/panel is it?
- A 4X8 Drywall cutout?
- or a PVC panel?

Neither.


It was a 4'x 8' sheet of Thrifty White, a Melamine coated Hardboard Panel found at Home Depot for approx.$10-12.00 average.

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post #317 of 350 Old 05-20-2020, 01:50 AM
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Originally Posted by abhayms View Post
a newbie here...
From the original post in this thread, what sort of board/panel is it?
- A 4X8 Drywall cutout?
- or a PVC panel?
To be more specific on my requirement

Room Setup:
Just starting to form some sort of Home Theater/ media room.
Room size is length wise ~16 feet from the screen(wall) and width is ~12 to 13 feet. Right opposite to the projecting wall there are windows (currently have blackout curtains on them)
  • - based on my measurement the wall can fit only a max of 100" screen (as wall length is 94" want some space for the border frame as well).
  • - Currently have a low end projector Ragu Z720 that projects at a distance of ~10 feet to a white painted Drywall. Mainly used by Kids to watch (for now)

Idea is to get a proper screen setup and then eventually buy a good projector.

Options for screen:
  • Paint on the drywall. Add black velvet over a 1X4 wood panel and use as a border framework
  • Use the 4X8 thrifyboard panel, paint and screw it to drywall (like the possibility of thin frame border look here)
  • Use a 4x8 Drywall itself, paint and screw it to existing drywall (to achieve the framework border look and possibility of adding the LED's)
  • Buy a Aluminum Frame with PVC screen. But can i paint on this PVC screen? (like this frame as i can add LED's for the border/backlight). Probably more elegant look on the wall.
  • Buy a Electric roll down PVC screen and paint.

What would be my best option here?
i am a super noob with DIY stuff and never have tried roll painting or spray painting a wall. This will be the first!

Basically, i like the fixed frame look (with gray screen) and backlight LED lighting, so not sure which of the above would be easy to do and budget friendly while giving a good enough screen to watch movies.
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post #318 of 350 Old 05-20-2020, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by abhayms View Post
To be more specific on my requirement

Basically, i like the fixed frame look (with gray screen) and backlight LED lighting, so not sure which of the above would be easy to do and budget friendly while giving a good enough screen to watch movies.

Ok...I suggest you start up a dedicated Thread of your own. Your bullet list delves into several aspects that are not dedicated to this Thread.


After you receive a detailed response, you can choose to frequent whichever thread is best for your purpose....your own or any one of the few that specifically address the need at hand.


I will offer up this though.....the desire to have a "Grey Based" screen will generally mean you will need sufficient lumen output to produce a decently vibrant image. Your "projected" screen size of 100" diagonal is something that makes it a little easier...the wish to perhaps have LED bias lighting surrounding a frame.....somewhat harder and more expensive. The PJ you currently have is not the one you should be concentrating on as far as making a screen to optimize it's performance....unless the Theater/Media Room will be one that exists for viewing in near complete darkness.


Any screen designed for a brighter PJ will leave you with a much dimmer image at present. So absolutely...if you want LEDs sometime in the not so far off future, selecting a "stand off" frame design that will allow for such is essential, while also keeping the Screen gain as high as possible....both of the former also being combined with the screen have contrast enhancement capability.


........and then there is the "budget friendly" desire to cater to. Nothing listed is impossible...but prudent decision making will be critical and will range further afield than what is normally addressed and discussed on this Thread. However as I stated, that might change and if so, you can get yourself back here to avail yourself of what this Thread has to offer.



I'll look forward to seeing your own thread popup soon. Just cut/paste your bullets above on the new Thread and off we'll go!

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post #319 of 350 Old 05-20-2020, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Ok...I suggest you start up a dedicated Thread of your own. Your bullet list delves into several aspects that are not dedicated to this Thread.


After you receive a detailed response, you can choose to frequent whichever thread is best for your purpose....your own or any one of the few that specifically address the need at hand.


I will offer up this though.....the desire to have a "Grey Based" screen will generally mean you will need sufficient lumen output to produce a decently vibrant image. Your "projected" screen size of 100" diagonal is something that makes it a little easier...the wish to perhaps have LED bias lighting surrounding a frame.....somewhat harder and more expensive. The PJ you currently have is not the one you should be concentrating on as far as making a screen to optimize it's performance....unless the Theater/Media Room will be one that exists for viewing in near complete darkness.


Any screen designed for a brighter PJ will leave you with a much dimmer image at present. So absolutely...if you want LEDs sometime in the not so far off future, selecting a "stand off" frame design that will allow for such is essential, while also keeping the Screen gain as high as possible....both of the former also being combined with the screen have contrast enhancement capability.


........and then there is the "budget friendly" desire to cater to. Nothing listed is impossible...but prudent decision making will be critical and will range further afield than what is normally addressed and discussed on this Thread. However as I stated, that might change and if so, you can get yourself back here to avail yourself of what this Thread has to offer.



I'll look forward to seeing your own thread popup soon. Just cut/paste your bullets above on the new Thread and off we'll go!
Thanks a lot for you reply MississippiMan. I have started a new thread.
Sorry if my option and requirements were ambiguous. I am just starting off into this setup, so was wondering if i can be pushed in the right direction.

Yes, 99% of the time, this media room will be used in complete darkness. Also LED is option, it is something good to have as i so many example images of it and seemed to look very good.
On why the Grey screen; for a movie experience i personally prefer to see more blacks (for example:like what we see in OLED's)

Yes, i understand my current PJ is very low on lumens. Plan is to change it to a higher lumen 1080p PJ's like the Epson HC series.
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post #320 of 350 Old 06-23-2020, 06:13 AM
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Question to all with knowledge


I am reading in this forum about Projector screens.
Maybe you can answer me some questions?

I live in germany and the paint in here is not the same as in US or Canada as you might know.

Right now I am considering 2 options:
1.) 100 Inch Screen with the 1:1:1
FolkArt Gunmettal Grey, Poly and Water mix (maybe a bit Black Onyx (color code #353839 ? possible?)

or

2.) Modern Master (amout ?!?) with Black onyx (#353839 ) and Poly. (What mix would be good?)


I want to use the screen as TV in the living room and want the screen to be darker (darker than the 1:1:1 mix)
The Projector does 3500 Ansi Lumen (real Ansi Lumen)



Thank you for your help.

Cheers,
Victor
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post #321 of 350 Old 06-23-2020, 07:19 PM
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Hi, new to this forum but always pass by for the valuable information so thank you.

I live in UK so most of the of the paints aren't available or ingredients aren't available. I managed to order some folkart gunmetal gray 5 bottles and 1 sterling silver (they had a buy 5 get 1 free offer) on ebay and and a water Matt polyurethane is hard to get.

What are the purpose of each of the ingredients how can they be substituted. The one water based polyurethane I can get is Vajello water based Matt polyurethane 200ml that comes at £8. Theres also a Vajello 500ml acrylic varnish at £12 can this be a substitute for the poly.

Also I'm planning on painting a 100 inch screen on one of those cheap ebay reflective projector screens which is nice and bright but only when your directly near the projector so it doesn't work when the projector is ceiling mount. Will the paint be enough to cover it. Will this paint work for ceiling mounted projector optoma hd144x. And will the paint stick to that kind of surface
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post #322 of 350 Old 06-25-2020, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by naviddabest View Post
Hi, new to this forum but always pass by for the valuable information so thank you.

I live in UK so most of the of the paints aren't available or ingredients aren't available. I managed to order some folkart gunmetal gray 5 bottles and 1 sterling silver (they had a buy 5 get 1 free offer) on ebay and and a water Matt polyurethane is hard to get.

What are the purpose of each of the ingredients how can they be substituted. The one water based polyurethane I can get is Vajello water based Matt polyurethane 200ml that comes at £8.
Hi @naviddabest


Welome to AVS's DIY Screen Forum...the World's Largest and Best source for advice and help!



Get the Vajello. The Poly both thins and conditions the Paint, while it also helps retain gain and creates some additional light diffusion.

After you have mixed everything, be absolutely certain to strain the paint to remove and clumps and/or Debri.

Quote:
Also I'm planning on painting a 100 inch screen on one of those cheap ebay reflective projector screens which is nice and bright but only when your directly near the projector so it doesn't work when the projector is ceiling mount. Will the paint be enough to cover it. Will this paint work for ceiling mounted projector optoma hd144x. And will the paint stick to that kind of surface
In order:
Yes
Yes
Yes......if sprayed on with successive very light dusting coats where each horizontally applied row laid down overlaps the prior row by at least 60%. A Duster Coating is applied from a distance of 14" off the surface, while moving across the surface at 3' per second. That is a steady motion sideways at a minimum of a normal walking pace. Always start and finish each row off the actual surface.....never stop or go slower in the middle of the surface....never try to go back to add paint in an area you dipped too low on, the next pass will compensate.

With a 100" sized Screen it should take you about 30 seconds to fully apply each coat. Each coat needs to be fully dried before applying the next coat.If you use a "CLEAN" Box or Pole Fan set on high and placed about8' away, drying time between each Coating should be approximately 20 minutes. So even 6 coats will go up in about 2 hours.

The 1st & 2nd Duster Coats should look very spotty / speckle-y...like Freckles. But like sun-induced Freckles on a Red Head, after 4-5 coats they all start to blend together.

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post #323 of 350 Old 06-28-2020, 12:39 AM
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Can the FolkArt 1:1:1 be darken by for example SEQUIN BLACK without damagin the colors?
How "dark" can it be done?

Cheers,
Victor
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post #324 of 350 Old 06-28-2020, 04:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Victor Sanchez View Post
Can the FolkArt 1:1:1 be darken by for example SEQUIN BLACK without damagin the colors?
How "dark" can it be done?

Cheers,
Victor

No....everything will go downhill as far as Gain and color dynamics.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
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post #325 of 350 Old 06-28-2020, 11:54 PM
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Hi ,

Has anyone had experience with painting over motorized screen cloth and how does the rolling of the screen affect the paint with this mix?

Vasilis
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post #326 of 350 Old 06-29-2020, 01:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vasilios Lagos View Post
Hi ,

Has anyone had experience with painting over motorized screen cloth and how does the rolling of the screen affect the paint with this mix?

Vasilis
Lots....here is a prime example.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...2-5-4-0-a.html



If you use the correct Paint Mix and spray it according to directions, you'll have nothing to worry about.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
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post #327 of 350 Old 06-29-2020, 03:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Lots....here is a prime example.


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...2-5-4-0-a.html



If you use the correct Paint Mix and spray it according to directions, you'll have nothing to worry about.
Many thanks ,

I have actually gone ahead and painted my 108" shown above screen and am i now waiting for it to dry but i am reluctant to roll it up yet . How many days do you estimate for the paint to fully dry ?

I seem to have run out of mixing paint (lol) in the process and there are some noticeable lines or areas like waves with more or less painting when viewed from an angle.
I have painted pretty much 8-10 times in total layers before running out of mix.
Mix is 5x bottles of Gunmetal gray (about 330 ml ) to 1:1:1 ratio with varnish and water for the 108" screen.

I have one additional Folkart gunmetal bottle 2oz but i am worried that the mix will not be precisely 1:1 as the previous one used ,maybe have some offset in coloring or darkened , so i am thinking calling it a day for the first attempt with a air gun .

If i may add for someone who is considering this method , take your time with the air gun , smooth lines as well as you can and do not persist on one spot .Also the blow dryer really helps . Mix more paint that you are calculating you will be using!

Vasilis
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post #328 of 350 Old 06-29-2020, 11:11 AM
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Mixing enough is always critical.......too often one mix will vary just enough to make a 2nd attempt be a different shade. You did not make enough paint....and that is what I have never liked or agreed with on this Thread...one based on individuals trying to limit their expense and the complexity of the process. Candidly speaking, the chance offailue,or at least mundane results is the usual outcome, and that is why you just do not see many re-posts (virtually zero) by Members who have used the E-FA-ALR methodin comparison to those who aspire to something much higher in peformance..

Overlapping each row by 60% is critical. And getting ONLY the amount onto a Retractable that is needed to effect even coverage is the absolute most critical because a too-thick coating can...and almost always peel or smudge through repeated roll-ups

8-10 coats were applied? But in what manner? The biggest issues crop up when someone goes ahead on the assumption that "Hey! It sounds easy enough..." and then proceeds to leave out or reconfigure the needed approach based on assumptive reasoning. The aforementioned Row overlapping is probably where you erred.


At this point, if your not going to try to correct your horizontal lines / weak areas, you need to let the Screen dry for at least 48 hours. And after it is completely dry to the touch (6-8 hours) you should put a Fan in front of it...on high...and blast it with air so that you can get about a weeks worth of drying done in 1 day's time.

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post #329 of 350 Old 06-29-2020, 10:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Mixing enough is always critical.......too often one mix will vary just enough to make a 2nd attempt be a different shade. You did not make enough paint....and that is what I have never liked or agreed with on this Thread...one based on individuals trying to limit their expense and the complexity of the process. Candidly speaking, the chance offailue,or at least mundane results is the usual outcome, and that is why you just do not see many re-posts (virtually zero) by Members who have used the E-FA-ALR methodin comparison to those who aspire to something much higher in peformance..

Overlapping each row by 60% is critical. And getting ONLY the amount onto a Retractable that is needed to effect even coverage is the absolute most critical because a too-thick coating can...and almost always peel or smudge through repeated roll-ups

8-10 coats were applied? But in what manner? The biggest issues crop up when someone goes ahead on the assumption that "Hey! It sounds easy enough..." and then proceeds to leave out or reconfigure the needed approach based on assumptive reasoning. The aforementioned Row overlapping is probably where you erred.


At this point, if your not going to try to correct your horizontal lines / weak areas, you need to let the Screen dry for at least 48 hours. And after it is completely dry to the touch (6-8 hours) you should put a Fan in front of it...on high...and blast it with air so that you can get about a weeks worth of drying done in 1 day's time.
Hi Maurice ,

Firstly thank you for your guidance and all the useful comments.

I have tried following all the guidelines mentioned in this post but as not being a professional painter nor have experience with mixing in general has resulted in the outcome attached.It just happens that i am into lots of DIY stuff and like learning new things getting my hands to do the actual work instead of buying something of the shelve. It was not cost cutting that led me bying 6 bottles for 110" screen but previous posts.

I am overall happy with the outcome considering that this is not a tab-tensioned screen. I passed another coat with what paint i had left (about half a bottle) yesterday.

I should say that this is far from perfect, but not too bad to the point the the screen is not usable.

Sharing my experience is just a way of contributing to this community and highlighting some errors or misconceptions about this process hopefully learning something for the next attempt and helping some other who are considering this method.

Do not misunderstand me, your comments are exactly what should be avoided or looked into as one undergoes same kind of DIY projects.

Thanks,
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post #330 of 350 Old 07-01-2020, 08:28 AM
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@Vasilios Lagos


You may well find that as the paint cures more that the screen surface will flatten out a bit. Leave the Screen down in place and drying as long as possible.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
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