Low gain removable screen options? - Page 2 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31 of 62 Old 06-02-2017, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Well I just got the projector today and have only have a short time to view it.... it's plenty bright that is for sure. Living Room ECO from 12.5' mounting is very bright at .9x gain with the lights on. Cinema ECO is pretty bright also... although this is a brand new bulb. Black levels are good, not quite JVC... which I would have expected. But this projector is brighter and the black levels seems pretty solid, lights off or just a touch on

I am having a focus uniformity issue however... seems the top and bottom are hard to focus at the same time. I might search the boards for this issue.

But from a screen perspective, I'm ready to go.... I think I could take it down a bit darker in gain with no problem, but MM, let me know what mix you suggest. Do you need more data from me?
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post #32 of 62 Old 06-02-2017, 05:24 PM
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I responded to your focus uniformity issue in your other thread.
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post #33 of 62 Old 06-03-2017, 07:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
I responded to your focus uniformity issue in your other thread.
The focus uniformity was improved by moving the projector from 12.5 to 18.5 feet .... I'll post photos from both... I don't think there is much of a brightness loss as less light gets reflected off my walls.... so I'm thinking 18,5 might be it's final mounting spot...

I'm using thx ECO and it's still nice and bright.... new bulb though. ....
O
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post #34 of 62 Old 06-03-2017, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave in Green View Post
My wife uses a small LED lamp to check her knitting while watching our front projection setup. One night she wore a pure white turtleneck that the little LED lamp lit up like a searchlight and I could see that the black levels on our screen were slightly washed out. I paused the movie and asked her to change to a dark top. When she did there was a visible improvement in black levels. So for anyone at all picky about black levels even the smallest things can make a difference.
Wait ... you don't require everyone in your projection room to wear these ?

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post #35 of 62 Old 06-04-2017, 06:26 AM
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The increase to 18.5' from 12.5' is huge.

It would be best to split the difference to 15.5'

That would still serve to decrease the amount of Zoom needed (..the root of your Focus issues...) while preserving lumen so that an effective Gray screen can be used.

Give that distance a shot, then extrapolate from your observations what you think is still needed as far as AL improvements.

Remember, Low Lamp for light controlled movies and Normal Lamp mode for TV/Sports means that there mist be a effective balance between the needs of both. Decreasing lumen delivered to the screen will make getting a dynamic image in AL conditions more problematical.

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post #36 of 62 Old 06-04-2017, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
The increase to 18.5' from 12.5' is huge.

It would be best to split the difference to 15.5'

That would still serve to decrease the amount of Zoom needed (..the root of your Focus issues...) while preserving lumen so that an effective Gray screen can be used.

Give that distance a shot, then extrapolate from your observations what you think is still needed as far as AL improvements.

Remember, Low Lamp for light controlled movies and Normal Lamp mode for TV/Sports means that there mist be a effective balance between the needs of both. Decreasing lumen delivered to the screen will make getting a dynamic image in AL conditions more problematical.

I'm not sure the difference is huge.

I tried the projector from 12.5' and 18.5' and there was not much difference in brightness.... but there was less light bouncing off the walls *and* the focus uniformity was much better.... . Here are the photos. I think the 12.5' is a touch brighter... but I also think the black levels are higher and therefore making the darker portions of the image appear brighter. PS, these images were taken with the same exact settings on my camera.

12.5' mount




18.5' mount

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post #37 of 62 Old 06-04-2017, 01:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcello View Post
I'm not sure the difference is huge.

I tried the projector from 12.5' and 18.5' and there was not much difference in brightness.... but there was less light bouncing off the walls *and* the focus uniformity was much better.... . Here are the photos. I think the 12.5' is a touch brighter... but I also think the black levels are higher and therefore making the darker portions of the image appear brighter. PS, these images were taken with the same exact settings on my camera.

12.5' mount




18.5' mount

PS. These images were on THX ECO with default settings.
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post #38 of 62 Old 06-04-2017, 01:27 PM
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I believe the brightness difference between 12.5ft and 18.5ft is only about 20percent. It's smaller than the difference between EcoLamp and FullLamp. Any extra brightness you can squeeze out by mounting a closer (without highlighting the focus uniformity problem too much) will be nice to have.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #39 of 62 Old 06-04-2017, 01:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
I believe the brightness difference between 12.5ft and 18.5ft is only about 20percent. It's smaller than the difference between EcoLamp and FullLamp. Any extra brightness you can squeeze out by mounting a closer (without highlighting the focus uniformity problem too much) will be nice to have.
Yes, but I saw focus “ghosting” at the bottom of my screen when mounted from 12.5’…. so the top of the image was good, but the bottom started to blur quite a bit. Table mounted from 18.5, and the focus is pretty much the same from top to bottom.
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post #40 of 62 Old 06-04-2017, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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PS... the auto iris, while still noticable, is more tolerable when 6' behind my head vs. pretty much right over my head
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post #41 of 62 Old 06-13-2017, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Update:

I'm still waiting for an acceptable Epson 5020UB hot swap from Epson to improve the focus uniformity issue, but from a brightness perspective (I'm sticking with 18.5" mount) currently using THX Eco with the lights off and either THX FULL or Living Room ECO with the lights on... but Living Room ECO with the new bulb is actually too bright : ).... so this tells me that I can lower the shade of gray and/or gain of my wall or screen and still have enough power .... I'm thinking .7 gain or higher. MM has sent me a proposed paint mix, which I'm considering. I'm also consider white over black spandex, which I'd make as removable and probably at touch smaller then my 112" 0.9 Scorpion wall, which I'd keep as a backup for 1) no lights 2) old bulb, etc.

My concern, as always, with paint, is how much shimmering there would be. I can actually see sparkles on the 0.9 gain Scorpion mix.... it's not quite annoying or bothersome... but it's *right on the edge* of being annoying to me with bright and white scenes.... so take that as a reference point... any mix suggestion should be at most as shimmery as Scorpion. Another refrence point is that I have an old sample of SF (“SF V2.0 #3”).... it has *way* to many sparkles.. like one of those old rear projection TVs that has a very high contrast black screen… which was good with the lights on, but every time I moved my head the sparkles would move with me. Anyway, you get the point.

Let me know if any one has any additional input. For now like I said, I’ll probably decide between MM’s suggested mix, or White over Black spandex…..
Thanks all.
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post #42 of 62 Old 06-13-2017, 09:04 AM
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Have you seen Carl's FlexiGrey? It's smooth, stretchy and easy to work with for not a lot more than a couple lengths of spandex, with a smooth grey surface that's noticeably darker-colored than N9, but only subtly gain-boosted up to around 0.7-0.8gain.
Its biggest advantage is that it doesn't suffer the contrast loss and softer focus that spandex can from sideways light-bleed through its fibers.. FlexiGrey is smoother and more opaque which gives it a slightly clearer and higher-contrast image.

If you aren't looking to go AcousticTransparent and would like a material that's similar to spandex for price and ease-of-use, Carl's FlexiGrey has a few advantages.
If you aren't in too much of a hurry, I recommend getting a sample from Carl's to check out along with the spandex and paints.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #43 of 62 Old 06-13-2017, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
... this Mix will indeed be Roll-able, and come in at .9 to 1.0 gain and be squarely with the N8 range. It's visual appearance will be 3x+ darker than Scorpion.
While re-reading to make sure I didn't already mention Carl's, I happened across this bit which I missed earlier.

How will your 0.9-1.0gain N8 grey appear 3X+ darker than the 0.9gain N8 Scorpion?

If this is a typo, do you mean it'll be 3 shades darker (N6) or 3X+darker (N5.5) a little darker than 1/3 as bright?

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 06-13-2017 at 09:34 AM.
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post #44 of 62 Old 06-13-2017, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
While re-reading to make sure I didn't already mention Carl's, I happened across this bit which I missed earlier.

How will your 0.9-1.0gain N8 grey appear 3X+ darker than the 0.9gain N8 Scorpion?

If this is a typo, do you mean it'll be 3 shades darker (N6) or 3X+darker (N5.5) a little darker than 1/3 as bright?
Not a Typo, and you should know (...even if you do not accept...) that the shades of SF / BF look darker than their actual Gain values.

3x "is" an approximation, but awfully close to reality, as well as how it is perceived by the onlooker in ambient or low light....especially next to the much lighter Scorpion.

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post #45 of 62 Old 06-13-2017, 11:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
Have you seen Carl's FlexiGrey? It's smooth, stretchy and easy to work with for not a lot more than a couple lengths of spandex, with a smooth grey surface that's noticeably darker-colored than N9, but only subtly gain-boosted up to around 0.7-0.8gain.
Its biggest advantage is that it doesn't suffer the contrast loss and softer focus that spandex can from sideways light-bleed through its fibers.. FlexiGrey is smoother and more opaque which gives it a slightly clearer and higher-contrast image.

If you aren't looking to go AcousticTransparent and would like a material that's similar to spandex for price and ease-of-use, Carl's FlexiGrey has a few advantages.
If you aren't in too much of a hurry, I recommend getting a sample from Carl's to check out along with the spandex and paints.
I have not... I'm checking out their options now... and.. frankly, it would a *big* advantage to get samples first like Carl's offers.... I'm assuming their ALR material is probably too shimmery? : )
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post #46 of 62 Old 06-13-2017, 11:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Not a Typo,
Spoiler!

The N-grey scale is a color/shade designation.
When you say something is "N8" color, that means it's a specific color/shade regardless of whatever gain increase (or lack) you design for it.
I'm wondering why you said yours was planned to be a light-grey/N8 color with a slight gain-boost to 0.9-1.0 and then said it would instead be much darker colored than the Scorpion which is also N8 colored and slightly gain-boosted to 0.9gain.
Is it going to be in the N8-ish color region like you said earlier or is it going to be 3X darker-colored...around N5.5?


Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcello View Post
I have not... I'm checking out their options now... and.. frankly, it would a *big* advantage to get samples first like Carl's offers.... I'm assuming their ALR material is probably too shimmery? : )
I believe you'll likely find their ALR material to be too shimmery, yes...but I think a package of most/all their material samples is only $5, so it probably wouldn't hurt to get them all at once to check out.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 06-13-2017 at 12:15 PM.
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post #47 of 62 Old 06-13-2017, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
[/spoiler]
The N-grey scale isn't gain...it's color.
When you say something is "N8" color, that means it's a specific color/shade regardless of whatever gain increase (or lack) you design for it.
I'm wondering why you said yours was planned to be a light-grey/N8 color with a slight gain-boost to 0.9-1.0 and then said it would instead be much darker colored than the Scorpion which is also N8 colored and slightly gain-boosted to 0.9gain.
Is it going to be in the N8-ish color region like you said earlier or is it going to be 3X darker-colored...around N5.5?



I believe you'll likely find their ALR material to be too shimmery, yes...but I think a package of most/all their material samples is only $5, so it probably wouldn't hurt to get them all at once to check out.
Well, I just ordered the sample pack just for the heck of it... it was $3 so why not. I want to see how the ALR and Flexigray compare to my Scorpion....

The only thing that might help me is with hotspotting at my 18.5' mounting distance... correct?
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post #48 of 62 Old 06-13-2017, 12:19 PM
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Yes, your long throw-ratio should help to avoid hotspotting..even with an aggressive screen.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #49 of 62 Old 06-13-2017, 01:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
Yes, your long throw-ratio should help to avoid hotspotting..even with an aggressive screen.
Got it, thanks... so we'll see how the samples look. I'm hoping the Flexigray might be a viable option as the ALR is a bit pricey for me. I not ruling out painting just yet however : )
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post #50 of 62 Old 06-14-2017, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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So is my assumption correct that since my ambient light in my narrow, 10.5 x 21' room comes pretty much from the same direction as my projector, that the ALR screen(s) won't really have much additional benefit compared to either a custom paint mix or a flexigray type material? I guess I'll see when I get the Carl's sample pack.

To be more precise, the projector is probably a lock now at 18.5' from the 112" wall...almost exactly centered (a bit of lens shift is used), and the 2 60W recessed cans are 11' away from the screen, 3' right of center, and 16' away from the screen, 3' left of center. Again, walls, ceiling, all dark matte, and dark carpet , furniture, etc.
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post #51 of 62 Old 06-14-2017, 10:44 AM
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The more aggressive screens will fight that lighting a little bit and the less aggressive screens will fight it even less...but they'll all be performing so poorly compared to their full potential that they'll likely appear fairly similar regarding light fighting ability, yes.
The different screens WILL still have different gain/brightness to compare.

The closest light is still hitting the screen only a few degrees different than the projector's own light-angle, so you'll be relying about 95% on the projector's brute lumen output.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #52 of 62 Old 06-18-2017, 09:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Carl's Samples - My findings

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
The more aggressive screens will fight that lighting a little bit and the less aggressive screens will fight it even less...but they'll all be performing so poorly compared to their full potential that they'll likely appear fairly similar regarding light fighting ability, yes.
The different screens WILL still have different gain/brightness to compare.

The closest light is still hitting the screen only a few degrees different than the projector's own light-angle, so you'll be relying about 95% on the projector's brute lumen output.
So I got Carl's Sample pack and what I found was slightly surprising. I have attached 2 photos, very rough... all against my Scorpion N9 painted wall. ...one on axis, one if I sit to the side of the room.... ~30 degrees maybe?

The sample I have are top to bottom left to right:
• Carl’s ALR
• Carl’s Flexigray
• Carl’s White
• Scorpion N8
• Silver Fire 2.5 #3

1) The Carl’s white is very white…. And smooth…. Not really a surprise… nice surface. Obviously the black floor is higher than any other surface testing and the worst in ambient light, etc.
2) The Carl’s Flexigray is a very smooth surface, and appears about as dark as the Scorpion N8, but… here it is… with a lot more sparklies on axis… quite noticeable to my eye… and signficiantly more than my Scorpion N9 full wall, or the Scorpion N8 sample. This was pretty disappointing, but I guess they are boosting the gain quite a bit..
3) The Carls ALR had, to my eye… much less sparklies than the Flexigray! Very surprised by this. It is not totally grain free, but not overly objectionable to me. Based on the feedback I have rec’d, I would not have expected this at all. I really like the ALR….. *but*… my concern is off axis…. When I move to the end of my couch, just about 4 feet from center from 11.5’ viewing distance onto 112” inch wall…. The image on the ALR gets significantly darker to my eye…. See the photos… I’m sure this is the off-axis ambient light rejection at work …. But I’m thinking this will provide a pretty noticeable light to dark viewing cone if I had a full ALR screen no? Ugh, too bad if I’m right as everything else about the ALR is really nice… the light fighting, the contrast, the decent white levels (on axis)….
4) The Scorpion N8 sample is just like my current N9, just a touch darker…. Some very minor sparkles, but smooth overall… both on and off axis.
5) The Silver Fire sample I have is very, very sparkly, but does produce a image full of pop….

Bottom line is for a minute, I was really excited about the ALR…. Until I moved to the side or moved the sample to the side while sitting in the center…. Any thoughts? Is my assumption about viewing cone being a noticeable issue the correct one for the ALR? Thanks!
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post #53 of 62 Old 06-18-2017, 11:38 AM
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Well given the ease of which the Silver Fire (3.0?) can be adjusted to greatly diminish the reported "Sparklies" without sacrificing "Pop", give you very good "On Axis" viewing, and maintain a higher degree of gain, I'd say you should have a viable route to take ahead.

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post #54 of 62 Old 06-18-2017, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Well given the ease of which the Silver Fire (3.0?) can be adjusted to greatly diminish the reported "Sparklies" without sacrificing "Pop", give you very good "On Axis" viewing, and maintain a higher degree of gain, I'd say you should have a viable route to take ahead.
I'm sorry, I thought you suggested a pb-maxx mudd variant vs. silver fire??.... keep in mind I cannot spray my wall... roll only.

Also, the Silver Fire 2.5 sample I had has the most sparkles of any other sample I have at this point....
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post #55 of 62 Old 06-18-2017, 04:19 PM
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Quote:
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Bottom line is for a minute, I was really excited about the ALR…. Until I moved to the side or moved the sample to the side while sitting in the center…. Any thoughts? Is my assumption about viewing cone being a noticeable issue the correct one for the ALR? Thanks!
The narrower viewing-cone is natural for any screen that's aggressive against sideways incoming ambient light.
The brightness falloff will be a lot less visible/noticeable using a full screen without that direct comparison against a surface that stays brighter off-axis. Without the brighter samples (and backing N9 screen) making the off-axis dimming super obvious, it's usually one of the artifacts the human eyes are most forgiving of.
The dimming will still all be there, but it'll appear incredibly subtle compared to how blatant it looks right now..but it's still important to make sure the image isn't dimming lower than you want near the middle of the screen when you're seated at the side seats you use. Even though it'll appear much more subtle overall, if the image gets dimmer than you like that will still be a problem.
Probably the easiest way to tell is by either putting the sample against a dark surface so nothing is brighter than it while projecting OR projecting a still image that you've cropped so it only fills that sample while the rest of the surrounding area is projecting only black content.
With only the sample being lit (or with the sample being easily the brighter material even off-axis) try moving around to other seats to see what you think of its brightness falloff.

I'm glad to hear you saying Carl's ALR looks surprisingly smooth to you as well. I love how Carl's ALR looks but I'm not as sensitive to sparkling as some members. Another very sensitive person was noting how visible Carl's ALR sparkle was, and I incorrectly figured it would be the same for you.

(I'm assuming, 'yes') Is the FlexiGrey sparkle something you still see easily from your seats?


Probably the most important question; is Carl's ALR providing something you really like that the Scorpion N8 isn't?..and is it worth the trade?

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
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Last edited by Ftoast; 06-18-2017 at 05:09 PM.
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post #56 of 62 Old 06-18-2017, 08:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcello View Post
I'm sorry, I thought you suggested a pb-maxx mudd variant vs. silver fire??.... keep in mind I cannot spray my wall... roll only.

Also, the Silver Fire 2.5 sample I had has the most sparkles of any other sample I have at this point....
You did say that, and if it was a 3.0 and rolled, well then there is your answer. No SF mixat 3.0 was ever intended to be rolled. So what you see might well be only something you'd NEVER see if it was sprayed.

But I also said it could be adjusted / altered to go far toward eliminating those sparkles, yet retain most all of it's other qualities.And...the mix when adjusted would in fact be close to being a RS-MaxxMudd variant, but with enough difference built in to allow for some of Silver Fire's end results to manifest themselves too.

How much SF Mix do you currently have?

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post #57 of 62 Old 06-18-2017, 08:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ftoast View Post
The narrower viewing-cone is natural for any screen that's aggressive against sideways incoming ambient light.
The brightness falloff will be a lot less visible/noticeable using a full screen without that direct comparison against a surface that stays brighter off-axis. Without the brighter samples (and backing N9 screen) making the off-axis dimming super obvious, it's usually one of the artifacts the human eyes are most forgiving of.
The dimming will still all be there, but it'll appear incredibly subtle compared to how blatant it looks right now..but it's still important to make sure the image isn't dimming lower than you want near the middle of the screen when you're seated at the side seats you use. Even though it'll appear much more subtle overall, if the image gets dimmer than you like that will still be a problem.
Probably the easiest way to tell is by either putting the sample against a dark surface so nothing is brighter than it while projecting OR projecting a still image that you've cropped so it only fills that sample while the rest of the surrounding area is projecting only black content.
With only the sample being lit (or with the sample being easily the brighter material even off-axis) try moving around to other seats to see what you think of its brightness falloff.

I'm glad to hear you saying Carl's ALR looks surprisingly smooth to you as well. I love how Carl's ALR looks but I'm not as sensitive to sparkling as some members. Another very sensitive person was noting how visible Carl's ALR sparkle was, and I incorrectly figured it would be the same for you.

(I'm assuming, 'yes') Is the FlexiGrey sparkle something you still see easily from your seats?


Probably the most important question; is Carl's ALR providing something you really like that the Scorpion N8 isn't?..and is it worth the trade?
I hear your point about viewing cone without comparing to another surface and I tend to agree. I might do the test you suggested. In the meantime, I did project a very small image into the both the ALR and flexigray fro about 2 feet from the projector and the viewing cone does not look nearly as severe with this test FWIW...

I have attached first ALR then flexigray from straight on and then from an angle. pretty similar.

As for if I like the ALR overall assuming the viewing cone would not be an issue?.... I think I do.... it's very punchy, pretty smooth, and with my moderate lighting ... it fights it off pretty good. I'm going to test a bit more.... this material is actually a bit over my original price preference, so we'll see. If this does not work out... I'll try some sort of paint attempt....
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Last edited by ohcello; 06-18-2017 at 08:22 PM.
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post #58 of 62 Old 06-18-2017, 08:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
You did say that, and if it was a 3.0 and rolled, well then there is your answer. No SF mixat 3.0 was ever intended to be rolled. So what you see might well be only something you'd NEVER see if it was sprayed.

But I also said it could be adjusted / altered to go far toward eliminating those sparkles, yet retain most all of it's other qualities.And...the mix when adjusted would in fact be close to being a RS-MaxxMudd variant, but with enough difference built in to allow for some of Silver Fire's end results to manifest themselves too.

How much SF Mix do you currently have?
I see... ok thanks. I have NO mix... I got this SF 2.5 #3 sample years ago... cannot remember who sent it to me.... I also have that Scorpion N8 sample.... but that's all I have.
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post #59 of 62 Old 06-18-2017, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcello View Post
I see... ok thanks. I have NO mix... I got this SF 2.5 #3 sample years ago... cannot remember who sent it to me.... I also have that Scorpion N8 sample.... but that's all I have.
Well really then, the entire comparison is skewered badly. Who knows who put it together, if it was rolled or sprayed... and what materials it consists of? In any case, if you PM me or email me your address, I'll see if I can send you something asap you can try, and if usable, then duplicate. I'd send enough for a "sizable" sample ( 2'x3' )

BTW, the ALR shows excessive hot spotting...the Flexi's gain is much more evenly distributed.

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post #60 of 62 Old 06-19-2017, 01:33 AM
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Yes I will certainly try it out first, but I fully expect it will be bright enough for lower gain. ... yeah I'm expecting a paint based solution....just a matter of what mix.......
I am new here but not TOTALLY new to home theater. Why would you or anyone else not just turn down your lamp brightness? Wouldn't that save lamp life, with it not working as hard?

Is the brightness adjustment on my PJ Not actually lowering the lamp but only letting less light trough?
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