Originally Posted by ohcello
Here are some more data points
Screen/Wall size - 112" diagonal
Throw distance - 12.5'... I could move it one more stud to 11', which would be *right on the edge* of the 5020UB's limits, but give it the max brightness. Either way, i will have it at or very close to max brightness. So if I use Projector Central mid-zoom numbers (to allow for aging), I get the following (Normal / Eco)
Dynamic - 1890 lumens / 1323
Living Room - 1473 lumens / 1030
Cine/Nat/ThX - 804 lumens / 562
Based on these, I think it comes down to using 0.6 gain screen with Living Room vs. using a 0.9/1.0 gain screen in Cinema....
Well as I said, if the ambient light in the living room is of a higher level of foot candles in proportion to the foot lambert of brightness of reflected projected light...especially to digital Blacks, the end results will be significantly noticeable loss of image quality.
Considering the current Scorpion (N)9 surface you have, one thing you've been lacking there are really satisfying blacks. And it's a primary reasoning behind why you know you'd need something to help with image quality in Ambient.
Well I can say with conviction that Lumen output + Screen Gain is what gives one great performance in ambient light. And since "Gain w/o Gray" won't work, "Gain w/Gray certainly will.
But by "Gain"....that means a mix that a .9 - 1.1 Gain that "can significantly" enhance Blacks, keep whites and colors vibrant, and not have any degree of Graininess....well, the stronger the foot lambert of reflected light off the screen is, the more resistant every aspect of the Image will be.
You cannot conjure up, or create a brighter image if the screen's gain (lack thereof) has already suppressed reflection.
For the ridiculous times when light exceeds common sense, all the same applies. Now if your lighting in "Living Room Situations" is even "moderate, non directed" Ambient light needs that Lumen horse power.
So that brings up the Epson. Your putting too much dependence on how much brighter you think the 5020 is than the older JVC. Certainly it's brighter....but it has nowhere near the depth of projected Black levels of the JVC. The difference, seemingly or otherwise...between the Blackest black and the Whitest white is what creates Image Quality in ambient light. And if Blacks start out "less black", they will deteriorate all the more quickly than projected Black that is projected....blacker.
I just finished a 157" 2.39:1 "On a fully painted 18' x 11' "Wall"...dedicated Theater, JVC x970r. Also two other Theaters with x570r s. And a last one with a x770r
Each one a painted wall, each one a Silver Fire 1.0 (Black Flame N/C actually) with 10 oz Matte White added (20 oz total). Those Theaters certainly are very effectively light controlled, but the ability to turn up the Cans is a plus they neither expected nor felt necessary. But now that such is in hand...they all are even more happy.
But on to Image Quality. Those JVC owners w/LyCos tech certainly would not tolerate any "speckles or grain". They also determined, to a man, that if ambient light watching was going to happen, they didn't want any serious decrease in overall image quality...and absolutely as little hit on those excellent JVC Blacks. And something important to all of them...enhanced Image Quality in 3D modes.
All those Screens are at the 1.1 gain level. And while they look miraculous, they too can only work their miracles if given the right balance of Depth of Gray + Gain
There really is no question why the highest performing ALR (resistant & rejection) applications, DIY & Mfg, all have both Gain and Black Level Enhancement properties. Some more, some less...some completely over the top. But the common denominator is to "combat" ambient light, so one must know what kind of application will deliver Black & Gray Scale image quality and brilliant Colors while resisting ambient light levels present.
That is simply not done by turning down reflected image brightness. ANY SCREEN THAT IS .4/+ UNDER UNITY GAIN WILL SUPRESS TOO MUCH LIGHT.
All said, now knowing your screen size / throw, the 5020 should show a bright image.....on Standard. When ambient light is truly low, Eco should be fine. So if you can match up the correct Shade of Gray with something close to +/- 1.0gain, you'll be there. And in truth, the right paint choice would let you just redo the wall, (squash that Bug
) and use one screen shooting in 2 different Light Output modes. You can calibrate each Mode so really, that's where you should go. You'll find the cost of building a Frame alone is something that offsets specialized Pain costs.
The only time when screen attenuation alone works, in the .5 - .6 gain area, is when a truly high lumen level of incoming projected light can actually "drive through the Gray" and produce bight colors, and whites that can be perceived as whites. (they are really a light Gray...but so bright as to appear white...)
Under those conditions, the quality of the projected Blacks will rest squarely on the Projector's ability. The Screen will enhance whatever it receives, but it can only do so much with whatever it does receive.
So again, my advice is to retain as much gain as possible. There are paint mixes that are more capable than the Scorpion, BW, C&S Ultra....right here, but you do have to choose & use the best one suited for your situation. Or be steered to it and run with that selection.
But hey...a White over Black Spandex Screen still seems a best choice for you IMO. Ir even Light Silver over Black. There would be NO screen artifacts, and as stated earlier, you'd still have that "bug on you wall" to watch.