Originally Posted by Sonnyblu42
Thank you so much MississippiMan! Former Hoosier here also... I have enjoyed studying this Forum very much thus far.
I look forward to experimenting with the help of all the combined knowledge contained here.
Updating my PJ and screens as time goes by... built around a nice 5.2.2 ATMOS sound rig.
I started reading the posts here just a couple of weeks ago... and the more I read, the more confused I got! LOL
So... I'm going to start with just a simple 2 ingredient mix... Glidden Flat White Base (w/Primer) and Rust-O'leum Silver or Pearl
To take advantage of what can be possible, you need to compile what is a simple but effective DIY Mix that contains the following components. While it my create more mix than needed, it does use the appropriate amounts to produce what is called the Silver Fire v2.5 N/C (no colorant)
Reflective & Viscosity mix.:
32 oz. Rust-O'leum White Pearl
12 oz. Rust-O'leum Sterling Silver Metallic
16 oz. Rust-O'leum Ultimate Matte Polyurethane
16-20 oz Filtered or Distilled Water
Here is an explanation of the properties inherent in Silver Fire v2.5 N/C
- The Pearl can be used in such higher amounts because it does not contain the darker element of "Black" within it's reflective Mica Particles
- The Silver adds both a Grey Tint and a degree of Reflectivity that a simple Grey cannot. But it must be held in check to prevent a speckled appearance on screen.
- The Polyurethane creates a bulk translucency that allows both of the reflective components to be evenly dispersed within the mix as well as their reflectivity to be correctly attenuated to a point where there is no excessive "sparkling".
- The Water is a thinning agent that allows for the smoother flow of the paint through the suggested smaller Needle/Nozzles on Electric HVLP Guns.
So lets go on to your original request prefaced with some history tha explain the mechanics behind using the Silvers and Pearls...their advantages and their caveats.
Some years back (2003), my own first attempts at experimentation led me to combine Behr Ultra Pure White Flat Latex with an equal amount of Behr Premium Plus White Pearl and Behr Deep Base. Basically increasing the gain of the Behr White to 1.2-1.3
It was a real hit with DIY'ers...and became known as MississippiMud...(MMud)because it was a ooey, gooey sludge of a mix that was in the least difficult to Roll. (...yeah, there was I time when I rolled screens...
However once that pinnacle was reached, it was ventured that improving Contrast would be nice. That is when the first attempt (...at least a success one...) was made by adding just a smidgen of Behr Premium Plus Silver Metallic (...only 2-4 oz.) The small amount was used because it was plain to see that using any more would create a grainy look with excessive sparklies. The Behr Silver also had a very dark Grey Base, so that too would tend to darken a mix too much, making all the Mica particles all the more apparent. That new, Silver Metallic-infused mix was labeled MMud-SM
It was not until Polyurethane was introduced to the MM-SM
mix that a new label was added...RS-MaxxMud
(Radiant Silver MM)
So things progress between 2003-2005. Through it all the primary goal was a brighter yet Contrast enhancing painted surface. But along the way it was discovered that Ambient Light "resistance" was gained...far more than any basic Grey surface could offer.
The final step up was Silver Fire
. Existing components were substituted (Rust-O'Leum for Behr) and for the most aggressive ALR results, a RGBY ultra Dark Colorant was created, added in increments of ounces to make Silver Fire be anything from a light Whitish Silver to a very dark Pearlescent Grey. But through it all, the Silver Metallic was always the lessor percentage in any variation of the Mix, for the previously stated reasons and concerns.
It's not made a lot of sense to regress since that time. Adjustments to the percentages of combined components allow for the Mix's use in anything from a darkend Theater environment to brightly lit Family Rooms.
Sooooooo.......experiment all you want...but be advised to start out being conservative with the percentage of Silver you use. Adding too much Silver makes for a very difficult re-adjustment. A overriding reason I continue to advise and help fellow Members is to both streamline their route to completing a successful project, and to avoid the torment that comes with abject failure. And I've see too much of the latter...usually after the fact, and it's not a pretty sight.
Good luck....I hope at least some of the above helps you on your way. And should you want to jump ahead, just shout out and we'll "get'ter dun!"