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post #1 of 32 Old 07-11-2018, 05:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Screen Recomendations

I recently purchased an Epson 2150. It currently projects on my wall, which is Agreeable Grey and has what I believe is referred to as orange peel texture. Obviously this is not ideal.

The room is about a 15' box with 9' ceilings. It has three windows on one side with blinds. Currently it's all light grey with a white ceilings. I hope to paint it dark grey, but I'm having to work on the wife for that one. It is a game room, but not a dedicated theater. I clearly have some ambient light to deal with.

The Projector is about 14' from the wall and so is the couch. It currently shoots an image of around 114"x63" which I believe is just a touch over 120".

I'm open to painting the wall but don't love the idea of doing the work to get rid of the texture. I also don't have a spray gun and am already in hot water for buying the projector. Buying a gun for one use would probably not go over well. I could roll but realize that's not as ideal.

I would like a little better contrast so I think I want a grey screen. I also plan to keep the TV and will probably use it more than the projector. A roll down screen would likely work better for that but the cheapest I can find is about $300 and white. Besides, I've always been a DIY guy. The goal is to keep this on the cheaper side of things because like I said.. already in trouble for buying the projector. I'm open to ideas to have the TV slide behind the stand and center channel, but that problem is for another day. I currently lean towards making a fixed screen using Carl's Flexigray at around 120". Attached is a picture of where the screen would go. Right above the center channel on the wall behind the TV. Thanks for any input.
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post #2 of 32 Old 07-11-2018, 08:09 PM
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Originally Posted by audiosq View Post
I recently purchased an Epson 2150. It currently projects on my wall, which is Agreeable Grey and has what I believe is referred to as orange peel texture. Obviously this is not ideal.

The room is about a 15' box with 9' ceilings. It has three windows on one side with blinds. Currently it's all light grey with a white ceilings. I hope to paint it dark grey, but I'm having to work on the wife for that one. It is a game room, but not a dedicated theater. I clearly have some ambient light to deal with.

The Projector is about 14' from the wall and so is the couch. It currently shoots an image of around 114"x63" which I believe is just a touch over 120".

I'm open to painting the wall but don't love the idea of doing the work to get rid of the texture. I also don't have a spray gun and am already in hot water for buying the projector. Buying a gun for one use would probably not go over well. I could roll but realize that's not as ideal.

I would like a little better contrast so I think I want a grey screen. I also plan to keep the TV and will probably use it more than the projector. A roll down screen would likely work better for that but the cheapest I can find is about $300 and white. Besides, I've always been a DIY guy. The goal is to keep this on the cheaper side of things because like I said.. already in trouble for buying the projector. I'm open to ideas to have the TV slide behind the stand and center channel, but that problem is for another day. I currently lean towards making a fixed screen using Carl's Flexigray at around 120". Attached is a picture of where the screen would go. Right above the center channel on the wall behind the TV. Thanks for any input.
First, 120" from 14' viewing is going to seem small after a very short while if it doesn't already. Although based on your measurements it looks like you are actually projecting a 130" image right now. Just because a room is 15' deep does not mean the seats must be jammed against the wall. Rooms actually look bigger when furniture is not shoved against the walls. It is also better audio wise not to be sitting against a wall. So ... the 120" or 130" might be a fine size for seats at 10' - 12' but not 14'.


Second, I have been doing all my TV and movie watching on projectors for over 17 years now. I predict that TV in the room with the big screen will get less and less use in your room. If you just can't part with, I would move it onto a swing-arm mount attached to the left wall, so the glass faces the wall when not in use and it pulls out to fill the corner diagonally when in use. It is just too tall to allow a projection screen to sit above if it is on a stand under the screen. Ideally, the stand would not be on the front wall but on a side wall to make the shortest HDMI cable runs and get the equipment blinking lights away from the screen. Maybe then the TV could sit under the screen.



Third, Flexigrey is surprisingly light colored. It may even be lighter grey than your walls currently are. So don't expect any more black improvement. Carl's ALR is considerably darker. Even grey spandex is darker. So if you won't be painting, get samples of material and tape it to the wall before deciding. On the other hand, a good drywall guy could finish that entire wall smooth in an hour and might charge you less than the difference between the cost of screen material and framing lumber vs. finishing and painting the wall. There are rollable mixes like Black Widow and Max Mud, but I have only seen pictures and I'm sure others will opine if they are dark enough to show improved blacks compared to your "Agreeable Grey" paint.

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post #3 of 32 Old 07-12-2018, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Can't side mount the TV, the wall to the left has windows and the wall to the right has a door.. Besides I'd rather have to manually move the TV every time than to watch it from an angle. Yuck.

The couch isn't all the way against the wall. I did build a small table to put behind it to hold drinks and remotes so it's out a little. I can't really pull it out further because there's a desk to the right of it so unless I want my son to sit in my lap while he plays Fortnight.. it is as far out as it can go. Unfortunately that leaves the distance fixed, and I'm ok with that.

I'm definitely interested in hearing more about those paints. I'll do some due diligence, but anybody with experience please chime in. Also still interested in other solutions. Thank you for your feedback, it is appreciated.
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post #4 of 32 Old 07-13-2018, 08:22 AM
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If you decide to have the wall area smoothed for a paintmix, it looks like anything around 0.6gain or higher with a color around N7 or darker will fight more of the off-axis lights and nearby light-colored surface reflections.
I believe BlackWidow is able to get a bit darker-colored while keeping around that gain while MaxxMudd should be higher-gain though slightly lighter-colored in its rollable version.
You could also mix together a couple of paints from HomeDepot or Lowe's to make your own darker-colored mix with 0.6gain or more. For example; a HomeDepot mix of 1quart of PPG tintable metallic silver and 12oz-15oz of Glidden or PPG flat interior paint tinted to "Seal Grey", or a Lowe's mix of 10oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents sterlingsilver and 1quart of Glidden or PPG interior flat paint tinted to "Granite Grey".

"Agreeable Gray" seems to be a slightly warm ~N8.2 shade of grey with around 0.6gain, so the mixes above should be able to look noticeably darker-grey by compare (except the similar or lighter-colored MaxxMuddLL) while keeping the image similarly bright (or noticeably brighter with MaxxMuddLL).

Carl's ALR screen-material (like dreamer already mentioned) would be both darker-colored AND higher-gain, more than any of the mixes mentioned..so it would fight off-axis lights and reflections even better while keeping a nicely bright image. Plus, it sounds like you have the projector mounted at a good distance for an aggressive screen like Carl's ALR to work well.

I think Carl's FlexiGrey should look a little darker-colored than your walls while keeping a brighter image, but like dreamer said, it is a pretty light-colored material so something like Carl's ALR would look a lot darker-colored while still providing a healthy image-brightness with its extra gain.

You may also want to check on the Elite CineGrey3D DesignerCutSeries and Elite CineGrey5D DesignerCutSeries which are often slightly cheaper than Carl's ALR from places like Amazon. These are bare material versions of Elite's CineGrey 3D/5D screens which can perform fairly similar to Carl's ALR for prices roughly around $100 in some cases.
With paints for mixing costing $30-$40 altogether plus the cost of getting the wall smoothed, an affordable screen-material and simple poplar 1x3 frame doesn't have to cost a lot more.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #5 of 32 Old 07-14-2018, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Toast, that was very informative.

Would you say a screen material is generally a better option than paint? I tend to lean towards painting, at least today, I change my mind often.

I YouTube certified myself as a wall mudder.. doesn't look that hard. I like the idea of paint because it will create an accent wall that will brighten up the room a bit decoratively. It also allows me to change the screen size. That being said I would want to paint the entire wall, it's 9x15. Unless there's a bad reason for that. I'm also a bit OCD and fear if I built a screen it wouldn't be perfect size wise and that would drive me bananas. Maybe that fear is unfounded and it's not that hard to get it right.

If a material is definitely the way to go though then I'll do that. I'm trying to keep the project under $150. My son broke his arm and it's set me back $2,200.. second time this year &#x1f644;.
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post #6 of 32 Old 07-14-2018, 07:34 PM
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A decent screen material should be able to look nicely smooth like a perfectly sprayed paintjob on a perfectly smooth surface, which may be difficult or practically impossible with some situations by painting. Some of the more aggressive light-fighting screens (Carl's ALR and Elite's CineGrey 3D and 5D are fairly aggressive) can be difficult to match with paint because the more aggressive your paintmix is, the more unforgiving it'll be as well (dark-colored yet higher-gain paint really highlights every little imperfection in the paintjob and surface)..so screen material can be a helpful way to get an otherwise tricky job nailed with the first try.

Paint can do a nice job of matching or nearly matching many screens' performances, but the more aggressive ones can start to basically require spraying instead of rolling to get a nice-looking result.

Just to make sure, you're still aiming for the screen/wall to be darker-colored than the surrounding walls?..or did you manage to get a darker-colored room scheme approved?

Painting the entire 9x15 wall has a few advantages and disadvantages. Some people like the look of the whole wall accent wall, and it does make fittingvthe image to the "screen" extra easy. But having a darker-colored screen rectangle on a lighter-colored wall can help the screen appear a little darker-colored and higher-contrast while requiring far less paint and less difficult reaching during painting.

With a light-fighting screen/paint and projector that's about 14ft back I wouldn't recommend going much larger than 112"-116" wide with your image because a throw-ratio shorter than 1.5:1 can make screen brightness-uniformity become noticeably uneven..particularly the more dark-colored yet gain-boosted your screen/paint is.
That means you would still have room to go a little larger if you want, and of course zooming smaller is always an option whenever needed.
The 2150's more generous than most at this price amount of shift and zoom helps make it easier to fit to a screen..so that's nice to have.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #7 of 32 Old 07-14-2018, 08:11 PM - Thread Starter
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I'll be painting the other walls a darker color.. leaning towards Benjamin Moore Artic Seal. The room has a trey ceiling so the plan is to also paint the lower ceiling the darker color but leave the raised portion white. Hopefully that will work well enough. I don't think I could get away with dark paint all the way around. I spend a lot of time in the room and don't want it to feel depressing. Truthfully, I like natural light and even seeing the green plants outside, which is why I will keep the TV. That and I don't really like gaming on the projector. Thanks again for your feedback.
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post #8 of 32 Old 07-15-2018, 07:36 AM
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Arctic Seal should be a pretty good choice for the other walls if you're able to get away with it. That'll leave most screen materials/paints lighter-colored by compare, so a lighter-colored accent wall as the screen could work pretty nicely AND brighten the room a bit like you mentioned.
Depending on how much light sneaks through your window coverings, the darker-colored surroundings should take care of reflections which would otherwise bounce onto the screen (both lights and the projected image itself) by a good amount..likely enough that you could get pretty solid results from the screen-wall as-is (or even better, after some smoothing with your newly learned skills).
Flat/matte-finish will help the walls/ceiling be less shiny/reflective while flat/matte for the screen-wall helps it give very uniform brightness and makes it look a bit more smooth and perfect even if it still has some small flaws.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #9 of 32 Old 07-15-2018, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Should I use MaxxMudd V 2.5? Will that roll on? Or should I use something else? If I do, would the below be the formula to use? Would I still add water if not spraying? Would this be enough to paint the whole wall or should I double it?

16 oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents - Silver 16 oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
12 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat
14 oz. Rustoleum Ultimate Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
20 oz. distilled/tap water**
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post #10 of 32 Old 07-16-2018, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiosq View Post
Should I use MaxxMudd V 2.5? Will that roll on? Or should I use something else? If I do, would the below be the formula to use? Would I still add water if not spraying? Would this be enough to paint the whole wall or should I double it?

16 oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents - Silver 16 oz Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
12 oz Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat
14 oz. Rustoleum Ultimate Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
20 oz. distilled/tap water**

Hello....,

Been on a brief weekend stint in Indy on a Theater consultation, so I'm a bit late to this one.

MaxxMudd v2.5 LL will indeed provide you with the modest but easily noticed boost in perceived Contrast and a deepening of the Black floor of your projected images, and yes...it can be Rolled with a modicum of care and the use pf good Roller Covers / Wands.


The Formula listed above is heavy in the proportion of Silver Metallic to Pearl, and not what you need / want. Besides, it would absolutely require that it be sprayed. Even if you can and would prefer Spraying, I would provide you with an adjusted Mix that would be more ideally suited.
BTW, the amount the formula above would make would not be enough to effectively spray a wall, and certainly even less apt to suffice if Rolling was chosen.



If you are to paint the Entire Screen Wall, instead of leaving the inset area of the Ceiling "White", paint it with a Flat Base that is Color-matched to the Screen Paint. Whichever formula is chosen, it's not going to be so dark a hue that it won't look very attractive when the lights are up, yet still tend to suppress reflections in a darkened room, as well as in low level indirect light.

You seem aware enough of some important aspects of room design that need to be considered to make the entire room work together. That makes many potential issues fall away.

If you want to continue on in this vein, let me know.

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post #11 of 32 Old 07-16-2018, 06:09 PM - Thread Starter
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I've been asking around to see if anybody I know has a spray gun, but so far no luck. Is the below the formula I would use? I think I read that Behr 1850 had been discontinued.. what should I use instead? I imagine I would need to double the amounts to cover the whole wall.

20 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
10 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - Silver
12 oz. Behr 1850 Ultra Pure White - Flat
14 oz. Rustoleum Ultimate Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
20 oz. distilled/tap water**
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post #12 of 32 Old 07-16-2018, 08:01 PM
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instead of Behr 1850 you'll typically want to use Glidden/PPG interior Flat Enamel White/Base1 (some HomeDepot locations are replacing Glidden with PPG, but either one can do an excellent job).

Doubling the amounts you have listed should give just enough to spray the entire smooth and uniformly light-colored wall, but I wouldn't expect significant extra if you want to practice first. Luckily, doubling should only raise the price roughly $25-$30 (for an additional quart of Rustoleum Metallic Accents pearl) because most of those ingredients already come in amounts that are double or more.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #13 of 32 Old 07-17-2018, 07:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the feedback. It doesn't look like I'll get my hands on a spray gun. If the results will be much better than I could probably buy one, but if only a little better I think I'll stick with rolling. When rolling should I do a coat of just the plain white first, or just start with the mix?
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post #14 of 32 Old 07-17-2018, 11:31 AM
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I think the mix you're looking at is the light-colored rollable version of MaxxMudd, so it should be okay either rolled or sprayed while following its instructions. I'm not sure you'll see a huge visible distance, though spraying tends to make it easier to get a smooth paintjob which can be pretty helpful.

If the wall looks a little patchy colored after the smoothing or has areas with filler showing, I like to first give it a coat with some cheap $10/gallon flat interior paint (Wal-Mart ColorPlace or the similar priced version of HomeDepot Glidden/PPG) which will help even out the color and give everything the same nice flat-finish paint to grab onto.
If your smoothed wall is already back to a uniformly colored light-grey (the old light-grey..not the darker ArcticSeal), I think you can safely paint over that because it's fairly light.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #15 of 32 Old 07-17-2018, 11:39 AM - Thread Starter
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I would skim it with mud to get rid of the texture so I guess it will start as the color of mud.. is there a spray gun that would work for around $50? Now I'm worried about roller marks. My last project ended up with them despite my best efforts, although it was a completely different applicant.. Duratex. Thanks again!
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post #16 of 32 Old 07-17-2018, 11:51 AM
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Mississippiman might have some good online shopping suggestions around $50-$60.
If you're in too much of a hurry for that, I've been using the Wagner Opti-Stain which was $50 (ironically had to buy it from WalMart because HomeDepot only sold the larger versions which pour paint like a firehose)..I've also heard the $50 Wagner ControlSpray can work in a pinch..just not the bigger (and I think slightly more expensive) version.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #17 of 32 Old 07-17-2018, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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If that the one in the link below? Appears to be in stock at my local Lowe's.

https://m.lowes.com/pd/Wagner-Opti-S...BoCOrMQAvD_BwE
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post #18 of 32 Old 07-17-2018, 04:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Would I change the formula if I sprayed vs rolled? Can I get the poly at Walmart? I didn't see it at Home Depot. They just had Varathane. I did go ahead and pick up the metallics. They had sterling silver which I assume is the same as silver?
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I have the regular (non-"Plus") Opti-Stain, but the specs in that link list a nice ~0.75mm tip and the gun looks like mine and costs about the same..so it sounds good for screen duty.

With the Opti-Stain I like the mixes thinned till they're about 33% water and 67% other ingredients..for example:
46 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
23 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - Sterling Silver
27 oz. Glidden/PPG interior Base1 or White - Flat
32 oz. Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
64 oz. water
(Amounts adjusted to keep the same ratios with maximum amounts except using a 33% amount of water)
However, I'm not the biggest fan of how the Rustoleum Metallic Accents sprays because it seems to get a bit of added texture compared to other metallics I've tried spraying. I somewhat prefer using HomeDepot's PPG tintable silver metallic (left untinted) which is around $50/gallon (a bit cheaper than the Rustoleum, but weaker so it needs a different ratio).

I've seen some WalMarts selling matte, water-based polyurethane or matte polycrylic, but if your HomeDepot sells matte, water-based Varathane polyurethane for around $12/quart it's likely a slightly better option than WalMart which generally costs a little more.
The Varathane brand is part of Rustoleum if that makes you feel any better, and I personally like the Varathane poly I've been using quite a lot.
The main parts are for it to be matte-finish (to avoid adding a glossy/shiny look) and water-based or soap+water cleanup (because oil-base doesn't mix well with the other water-based ingredients and is harder to clean up after).

The Rustoleum full name is Rustoleum Metallic Accents sterlingsilver..so you picked up the correct one.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #20 of 32 Old 07-18-2018, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Should I take the metallics back and get your suggestion? Does that only replace one of the metallics, or both?
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post #21 of 32 Old 07-18-2018, 09:58 AM
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Should I take the metallics back and get your suggestion?

I would not do so.



Quote:
Does that only replace one of the metallics, or both?

First off,in the Mix listed above the quoted ratio of Pearl to Silver is far too heavy on the Silver. 12 oz to no more than 14 oz is the maximum I would recommend. If you want a darker shade of Gray, have the White Base tinted Universal Gray. More Silver will darken the mix, and allow for more AL capability, but you risk having some degree of noticeable Graininess in your Whites and lighter Pastels.



The Wagner you linked to is the less expensive one. It will work if used correctly with properly thinned paint. But I can assure you the Tip is NOT under 1mm. More like 1.6 mm


Cannot fathom where .75 mm came from. Gotta be a misprint error on Lowe's site........because I know the Wagner line, and as a ad-hoc Dealer, I'm aware of what the construction of the applicable guns are. A .75 mm plastic needle would have a extremely sharp point, and would wear down tremendously fast. 1.0 mm needles must be made from metal to have any degree of durability. The ONLY Spray Guns I know of with under-1.0 Needles are Air Brushes.



Do you want to purchase a HVLP that you can use for various projects going forward, or just the least expensive one for a one-off DIY Screen project? There are Wagner units that sport interchangeable Spray Heads and have separate Turbines, and some can be had for only $25-30.00 more than the Opti-Spray you linked to.



But .......Crikey! DO NOT thin the mix with the proportionate amount of water listed above....outright. Start out with 32 oz at very most...matching the Poly amount. The Poly itself is a thinning agent. The paint must be strained anyway so use the rate of drainage through the Bag Filter to judge the viscosity level the Gun needs.

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post #22 of 32 Old 07-18-2018, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter
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I can't think of another project that I would use the gun on, but that doesn't mean one wouldn't come up. It certainly won't get heavy use.

Now I'm not sure what ratios to use.. I've got to filter the paint too?
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post #23 of 32 Old 07-18-2018, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiosq View Post
I can't think of another project that I would use the gun on, but that doesn't mean one wouldn't come up. It certainly won't get heavy use.

Painting can actually be fun...and you'd be surprised as to what projects will come up once you have the Tools.


Quote:
Now I'm not sure what ratios to use.. I've got to filter the paint too?

Ratios we can deal with.....
Whenever you use any HVLP Sprayer that purports to lay down ultra smooth coats,you cannot afford to have is spit out a bunch of junk that is not paint...and all paint can have some solids within, and those solids can...and will plug up the small orifice of a HVLP Gun's Nozzle. That applies to Guns with huge 'ol 2.2mm needles, let alone ones that sport 1.2-1.0 mm ones.


Straining is easy....if at least a bit messy if you clumsy, but it keeps the paint a'flowin'...and nothing is better to use as a judge og getting your paint to the correct viscosity than observing how fast (...or slow...) it passes through a Bag Filter. There are even Videos on here that show you how fast it should drain. Feel that love a pourin'?



All of that and more are simply things you gotta do...and they are not much...considering the excellent results you get if you even halfway try to observe such dictates. Best of all...your not alone in this. Helpful advice and assistance anywhere along the way is usually readily available with just a Post or PM

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post #24 of 32 Old 07-18-2018, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by audiosq View Post
Should I take the metallics back and get your suggestion? Does that only replace one of the metallics, or both?
The tintable PPG metallic silver could replace both metallics and the polyurethane, but would need a higher ratio to keep up (around 1gal can of PPG metallic and 26oz-30oz flat-grey "Granite Grey" plus the appropriate amount of water for your sprayer).
BUT these lighter-colored mixes (including Mississippi's suggestion to use even less Rustoleum MA silver to lighten the mix and lower its gain a little) can help make the Rustoleum's slight texturing much less visible, combined with your farther seating-distance (which also helps a bit) I am likely worrying over nothing.
The Rustoleum should be okay.


I do wonder if Mississippi and I could figure out a way to skip the Rustoleum Metallic Accents sterlingsilver entirely after he mentioned it being better to use so little even inside the overall larger mix...that could simplify things a little and save you $25-$30 if you're able to return it.
That would adjust Mississippi's most current recommendation of:
46 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
12 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - Sterling Silver
27 oz. Glidden/PPG interior Base1 or White - Flat
32 oz. Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
32 oz. water (to start..adding more in small increments of needed)

To something more like:
64 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
20 oz. Glidden/PPG interior Flat- "Pebble Grey" (or "Granite Grey" if a slightly more grey screen is desired)
32 oz. Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
32 oz. water (to start..adding more in small increments of needed)

Mississippi, what do you think about leaving those last 12oz Rustoleum silver behind and adjusting the mix for the difference like above?

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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This is getting complicated and I think more expensive than if I built a screen.. which is fine if the results will be better. I just want to make sure that they will before I go mudding, buying a paint gun and playing chemist. I guess I'm worried that I'll screw it up and spent more time and money only to have it look worse.
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post #26 of 32 Old 07-18-2018, 10:11 PM
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Originally Posted by audiosq View Post
This is getting complicated and I think more expensive than if I built a screen.. which is fine if the results will be better. I just want to make sure that they will before I go mudding, buying a paint gun and playing chemist. I guess I'm worried that I'll screw it up and spent more time and money only to have it look worse.
It likely sounds more complicated than it is.

Painting a 120"-135" screen using 2 different Rustoleum Metallic colors plus poly and paint costs around $80 plus the cost of a sprayer.
Painting a whole wall using those ingredients should cost around $80-$105 plus sprayer.
Using something different for spraying a 120" screen could cost less..around $30 plus a sprayer.
Painting the whole wall using a different mix could cost as little as $60 plus the sprayer.

With a $50-$60 sprayer, painting can cost anywhere from $80-$165.
Building a poplar frame and covering it with CineGrey3D/5D or Carl's ALR should cost roughly $135-$200.
Using a lighter-grey and slightly lower-gain screen material like CineGreyClassic or Carl's FlexiGrey could be ~$100-$120.

Smoothing the wall and using a sprayer after a bit of instruction and a little practice gives really high odds of success..so does stretching one of those materials over a frame. You should be in good shape either way as long as you're able to go comfortably slow.


Painting does let you fill the whole wall if that's what you'd prefer (trying that with screen material costs a small fortune), in addition to saving some money.
Plus, it sounds like your room will be nicely dark-colored, which will improve the image-quality all by itself.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #27 of 32 Old 07-20-2018, 02:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Alright, let's nail down the paint mixture. I'm painting the other walls this weekend. Hopefully paint the screen next weekend. Also, any recommendations on which compound to skim the wall with?
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post #28 of 32 Old 07-20-2018, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by audiosq View Post
Alright, let's nail down the paint mixture. I'm painting the other walls this weekend. Hopefully paint the screen next weekend. Also, any recommendations on which compound to skim the wall with?
I know you've already answered these, but just to be thorough and make sure:
Is the rest of the room getting painted like you described in post#7 (ArticSeal walls and even darker ceiling on its lower sections)?

Are you going to paint the entire 15'x9' screen-wall as a lighter accent-wall using the mix instead of having a darker/ArcticSeal surrounding a lighter 120"-130" rectangle?


Then we need Mississippi's attention to doublecheck that he's still okay with his latest suggestion and see if he's open to a tweak that can help simplify this a little and lower the cost a little while giving similar color, gain, mix amount and performance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
First off, in the Mix listed above the quoted ratio of Pearl to Silver is far too heavy on the Silver. 12 oz to no more than 14 oz is the maximum I would recommend. If you want a darker shade of Gray, have the White Base tinted Universal Gray.

DO NOT thin the mix with the proportionate amount of water listed above....outright. Start out with 32 oz at very most..
That would make Mississippi's most current recommendation:
46 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
12-14 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - Sterling Silver
27 oz. Glidden/PPG interior Base1 or White - Flat (UniversalGrey instead of white if a darker color is desired)
32 oz. Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
32 oz. water (to start..adding more in small increments of needed)


Mississippi, what do you think about leaving those last 12oz Rustoleum silver behind and adjusting the mix for the difference like above?
After you mentioned it being better to use so little even inside the overall larger mix...that could simplify things a little and save $25-$30.

Something more like:
64 oz. Rustoleum Metallic Accents - White Pearl
20 oz. Glidden/PPG interior Flat- "Pebble Grey" (or "Granite Grey" if a darker grey screen is desired)
32 oz. Polyurethane - Matte Finish (water based)
32 oz. water (to start..adding more in small increments of needed)

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415

Last edited by Ftoast; 07-20-2018 at 03:59 PM.
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post #29 of 32 Old 07-22-2018, 12:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Painted the walls and the lower ceiling dark gray today.. much improvement. Will paint the whole wall with the mix.
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post #30 of 32 Old 07-28-2018, 12:12 PM
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I'm kinda of interested in seeing how this story ended.

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