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post #1 of 86 Old 08-01-2018, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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AT Screen Help

Hey guys, I was instructed by MississippiMan to come over to DIY screens for more direction on my current room. Ignore the AC

Planning on getting a BenQ HT2050a soon and am trying to get a path forward for my room situation. Plan is to mount the projector around 106 - 130 inches away from the screen on the ceiling (still deciding on screen size, but thinking 110")

I mainly was reaching out here because I would love to use an AT screen to hide the front 3 speakers. However, I'm sitting roughly 9 feet or so away from where I was thinking the screen would go. So I'm not sure if I could hide them behind JUST the screen if it was something like a 110" 16:9 screen.

Now, if I was to MAKE the screen from Joann Fabrics or elsewhere online. How would I go about doing so for an AT screen? I noticed a 110" AT Silver Ticket is ~$400

Planning to just hang the screen from the ceiling (with perhaps some wire and toggle bolts) and figure out blocking the rest of the surrounding screen area. I think that the HSU subwoofer is most likely limited in sitting up front and sticking out from the bottom.

Chair, TV, Entertainment stand is all temporarily in there for now.

Current room situation (Ignore the chair and AC)


Projector layout



Thanks for your time, would appreciate any thoughts. Original post here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/23-sc...en-advice.html

Receiver: Yamaha RX-V675 7.2
Center Speaker: Chane A2.4
Front Left/Right: Chane A1.4
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Devices: Vizio M55-C2, Plex Media Server (i5, 8gb, Ubuntu), Fire Tv, Xbox One, PS3

Last edited by kentoe; 08-08-2018 at 11:02 AM.
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post #2 of 86 Old 08-01-2018, 02:11 PM
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Hello kentoe!



Despite your self admitted "almost non-existent DIY skills", building a Frame and stapling on 2 layers of Lightweight Milliskin Spandex is really a very easy project.


The acoustic benefits of Spandex (2 layers) are well documented and trial tested by many AVS DIY'ers, among them the same "skill challenged" individuals you are related to.


Visually, Spandex has one of the two smoothest Surfaces available. (...the other is Dreamscreen V6) This means having an impeccable image with no visible screen-induced artifacts. (...Weaves - Perforations ...)


At 110" diagonal, and if the PJ is set at a 10' Throw, the level of Foot Lambert reflected brightness on a White over Black spandex Screen would be 21' fl.


Here is a diagram of a Frame constructed with 1x3s & 1x4s





Helping to get you through the construction process is what we are here for, so don't fret none.


Mount recommendations, wiring, hanging the screen....any aspect of your build.....Just say the word and the information starts flowing.
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post #3 of 86 Old 08-02-2018, 11:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks MississippiMan! Appreciate the insight and layout of how it should go. Where would you recommend getting the fabric and which one in particular for an AT screen? I noticed a lot, like you said that laying down a white over black is always suggested for optimal picture quality.

Also, how do I figure out how much to order, to cover a certain screen size? I'm guessing that doing this will be vastly cheaper than $400 for a new AT screen from SilverTicket?

Receiver: Yamaha RX-V675 7.2
Center Speaker: Chane A2.4
Front Left/Right: Chane A1.4
Surround Left/Right: Fluance XLBP
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post #4 of 86 Old 08-02-2018, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentoe View Post
Thanks MississippiMan! Appreciate the insight and layout of how it should go. Where would you recommend getting the fabric and which one in particular for an AT screen? I noticed a lot, like you said that laying down a white over black is always suggested for optimal picture quality.

Also, how do I figure out how much to order, to cover a certain screen size? I'm guessing that doing this will be vastly cheaper than $400 for a new AT screen from SilverTicket?
Fabric is sold by the yard, not the square yard or square foot, but by the linear yard. So if a fabric is 58" wide or 60" wide, it will be that wide by 36" x however many yards you order. You will want 3 yards each of Matte White and Matte Black with a texture called "milliskin" that can be ordered from SpandexWorld

https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/795 https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/796


This will give you pieces that are 60"x108" that will be ample to cover a frame for a screen as large as 120" 16:9 diagonal. You should order it on a roll instead of folded -- to avoid creases.

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post #5 of 86 Old 08-03-2018, 07:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentoe View Post
Hey guys, I was instructed by MississippiMan to come over to DIY screens for more direction on my current room. Ignore the AC

Planning on getting a BenQ HT2050a soon and am trying to get a path forward for my room situation. Plan is to mount the projector around 106 - 130 inches away from the screen on the ceiling (still deciding on screen size, but thinking 110")

I mainly was reaching out here because I would love to use an AT screen to hide the front 3 speakers. However, I'm sitting roughly 9 feet or so away from where I was thinking the screen would go. So I'm not sure if I could hide them behind JUST the screen if it was something like a 110" 16:9 screen.

Now, if I was to MAKE the screen from Joann Fabrics or elsewhere online. How would I go about doing so for an AT screen? I noticed a 110" AT Silver Ticket is ~$400

Planning to just hang the screen from the ceiling (with perhaps some wire and toggle bolts) and figure out blocking the rest of the surrounding screen area. I think that the HSU subwoofer is most likely limited in sitting up front and sticking out from the bottom.
For hanging it from the ceiling, were you thinking about rigidly mounting it (like 2x4 posts hanging from the ceiling) or were you going to do something with eye-bolts and hanging wire? The reason I ask is you need the screen to be perpendicular vertically and horizontally to your projector otherwise you will see distortion in the image. If you hang it with wire I am not sure how you would keep the whole screen from tilting forward until it balanced. So it would look like this \ from the side instead of |, which will not work well! You could just build two columns out of 3 1x4s or 1x6s that would go floor to ceiling. So from the top it would look like this:

|_|

Based on MississippiMan drawing you would have the two columns attach towards the outer edge of the "On Wall" portion of the french cleats.
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post #6 of 86 Old 08-03-2018, 11:02 AM
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Actually, it's all about the balanced placement of the Eyelets. No...not entirely intuitive, but certainly well within the ways and means of the Noob who bothers to ask for instructions.


I've hung screens ranging from 110" - 140" up to 200" from such Eyelets, so it can be done.

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post #7 of 86 Old 08-03-2018, 06:52 PM
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My first screen was a 5'x10' piece of Wilsonart Formica on a particle board substrate. I hung it from the ceiling with molly bolts and light, decorative chain. The molly bolts just went into the drywall, not the ceiling joists and it never pulled out from the drywall. My current screen is a much lighter aluminum frame, also hung from the ceiling, with inexpensive carabiners from HD. Installation and removal is a one person job and only takes about 5 minutes.


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post #8 of 86 Old 08-07-2018, 05:42 PM
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I just got my screen up with the help from MM ordering the screen material. White over black works like a charm! Keep it simple and don’t think about it too much. Take your time stretching and attaching the screen material and it’ll turn out great.

Thread with pictures is here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-ge...topics/2958434

I simplified the screen frame as much as possible.


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post #9 of 86 Old 08-08-2018, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dreamer View Post
Fabric is sold by the yard, not the square yard or square foot, but by the linear yard. So if a fabric is 58" wide or 60" wide, it will be that wide by 36" x however many yards you order. You will want 3 yards each of Matte White and Matte Black with a texture called "milliskin" that can be ordered from SpandexWorld

https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/795 https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/796


This will give you pieces that are 60"x108" that will be ample to cover a frame for a screen as large as 120" 16:9 diagonal. You should order it on a roll instead of folded -- to avoid creases.
Thank you very much, I will definitely be pursuing this soon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bitmap42 View Post
For hanging it from the ceiling, were you thinking about rigidly mounting it (like 2x4 posts hanging from the ceiling) or were you going to do something with eye-bolts and hanging wire?
Was originally thinking eyebolt style ish from my research. It seems people don't really run into much issues from what I've seen like mhutchins below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mhutchins View Post
My first screen was a 5'x10' piece of Wilsonart Formica on a particle board substrate. I hung it from the ceiling with molly bolts and light, decorative chain. The molly bolts just went into the drywall, not the ceiling joists and it never pulled out from the drywall. My current screen is a much lighter aluminum frame, also hung from the ceiling, with inexpensive carabiners from HD. Installation and removal is a one person job and only takes about 5 minutes.
Thanks for the details! Much appreciated! I will certainly be referencing some of this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bafflesteppe View Post
I just got my screen up with the help from MM ordering the screen material. White over black works like a charm! Keep it simple and don’t think about it too much. Take your time stretching and attaching the screen material and it’ll turn out great.

Thread with pictures is here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-ge...topics/2958434
Thanks for the info! Really appreciate it.


I was able to buy a bedsheet and hang it up to get a "feel" of what a 110" screen would feel like here cut to roughly the dimensions of what MM posted. My wife was thinking it may be a bit much... I measured the distance from her to the screen (or where I was thinking of putting it, to fit all the speakers behind it) and it was roughly 7ft 8inches. Which, the width of perception may be a bit too much... I might get the projector first and see how it actually is in person within the next few weeks -- may have to step down a bit.

Silly bedsheet here:

Receiver: Yamaha RX-V675 7.2
Center Speaker: Chane A2.4
Front Left/Right: Chane A1.4
Surround Left/Right: Fluance XLBP
Subwoofer: VTF-2 MK5
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Last edited by kentoe; 08-08-2018 at 10:56 AM.
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post #10 of 86 Old 08-14-2018, 08:53 AM - Thread Starter
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Finally picked up the HT2050a and got it in yesterday. Super excited. I am actually pretty blown away by the quality on the bedsheet alone! Even with all the creases and wrinkles.

Sadly I think that 110" will be FAR too big given our seating distance of roughly 8ft. The picture below is roughly 81" diagonal and it was a bit too much for the wife. I actually didn't mind it so much. I think I can get a good 6-10 inches back further to the wall while still fitting in the center speaker behind it. Hopefully this will help. I assume the first part to start with is getting a good sense of where the screen will go, and then trying to find a compromise of screen size. I wouldn't want guests to be uncomfortable either.



Receiver: Yamaha RX-V675 7.2
Center Speaker: Chane A2.4
Front Left/Right: Chane A1.4
Surround Left/Right: Fluance XLBP
Subwoofer: VTF-2 MK5
Devices: Vizio M55-C2, Plex Media Server (i5, 8gb, Ubuntu), Fire Tv, Xbox One, PS3
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post #11 of 86 Old 08-17-2018, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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So lemme know if this is a proposed good plan:

  1. Take the current bedsheet and move it back roughly 8 - 10 inches or so to leave roughly 1ft 6in - 1ft 8in to fit the speakers and subwoofer (sideways) behind the screen area. (Chane measures about 1ft while the subwoofer measures 1ft 3 inches)
  2. From there, adjust the projector to get a good approval of viewing size on the bedsheet so that it isn't strenuous viewing.
  3. Measure the projected image to get a size to make the AT screen to. (I.e. if the projected image we like is 85" diagonal, measure length width and make the screen out of those measurements)

Thoughts? I looked up the pocket screw jig and it looks fantastic! Definitely am going to try to make it.

Receiver: Yamaha RX-V675 7.2
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Front Left/Right: Chane A1.4
Surround Left/Right: Fluance XLBP
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post #12 of 86 Old 08-20-2018, 11:08 AM - Thread Starter
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So I was able to get a dimension range that we'd be comfortable with in terms of size and where we'd be seated. The wife was good with 80" considering the mix of movie (2.58:1?) and regular/ older movies at 16:9. I was seemingly fine with where we had it at currently which was 89/90". We didn't mind meeting at the middle and doing something like 85", however if I make the screen I need to make sure the aspect ratio of 16:9 is kept true to picture.

My trouble with this is that the L x W of something like an 86" screen would be something like 75 inches wide by 42.2 inches tall (according to the BenQ projector calculator). How specific do I need to be to make sure the aspect ratio is fine and the picture is fine from the projector? The non-consistent measurement to an inch makes me nervous about putting this together mis-aligned/mis-measured by a tenth of an inch...


This is about what I had in mind, roughly 12 inches off the ceiling using the lens shift to get it down to around 28" off the floor and around 100 inches back:

@MississippiMan


Receiver: Yamaha RX-V675 7.2
Center Speaker: Chane A2.4
Front Left/Right: Chane A1.4
Surround Left/Right: Fluance XLBP
Subwoofer: VTF-2 MK5
Devices: Vizio M55-C2, Plex Media Server (i5, 8gb, Ubuntu), Fire Tv, Xbox One, PS3

Last edited by kentoe; 08-21-2018 at 11:23 AM.
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post #13 of 86 Old 08-21-2018, 02:36 AM
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Being as accurate as possible with your measurements and cuts will certainly help, but if you're able to add a narrow black border around the screen's edge to absorb any small mistakes/over-spill, that can pretty easily make it look like your image and screen are perfectly matched and fit.
I stapled a 1" (might be 3/4") strip of fuzzy black cloth both for the same reasons and to hide the screen's rough edges, and it helped make fitting the image onto the screen become a lot less picky...which was particularly nice with the projector being mobile and needing to be re-setup for practically every use.

If that isn't an option (or you really want the borderless look) I think you'll be in good shape with the mounted projector and careful measurements and taking a bit of extra time during the initial setup/fitting. From seating-distance you're unlikely to notice or be bothered by a few millimeters of bare screen if your ratio (and the projector's budget optics) aren't completely perfect..you'll just want to make sure any tiny amounts of left/right or top/bottom space are equal while you're fitting the image onto the screen. During a movie the tiny bit of blank screen at the edges will blend in with the similarly colored wall a ways behind the screen, so it shouldn't be a problem for viewing either.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #14 of 86 Old 08-21-2018, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the insight. How would I go about adding a black felt border? More wood on the outside? Just can't think of how to wrap another section of wood and attach that to the frame that would need to or already have the spandex stapled over.

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Surround Left/Right: Fluance XLBP
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post #15 of 86 Old 08-22-2018, 02:09 AM
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If you want to avoid stapling/nailing a velvet-wrapped wood border through the front of your spandex, you might be able to fix magnets into the frame's front edge as well as the back of your border...or (If possible) even attach black material directly onto/around 4 long magnetic strips which can be held to the magnets in your frame behind the spandex.

Otherwise, the usual method is wrapping velvet around narrow strips of trim (attaching at the back) and then using small finishing nails right through the front to attach the border to the frame.

In my case I used long strips of black Velcro, fuzzy side forward, and gently tapped stapled through them and into the front of the frame..no wood/trim strips used. However, this isn't quite as good at absorbing overspill as velvet, and it isn't as perfectly straight and crisp as fabric-wrapped wood/trim (anything thin and straight and somewhat stiff, really) can be.

Easy $25 DIY black (or any color) ALR paint +$40-$50sprayer screen mix smooth/clean and very easy to learn spraying with little/no mess.
Simple $25-40 DIY black/dark-grey ambient-light rejecting screen, grab two things from a local store..mix..roll..done.
Quick <$250 dedicated black-fabric theater room "A store that sells blinds can help your picture more than a store that sells projectors many times." -bud16415
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post #16 of 86 Old 08-22-2018, 04:55 PM
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@kentoe, Congrats on the 2050a. I am about to pull the trigger on the same model.





Not to ThreadJack...I have a question for you @MississippiMan .


My seating is about 14ft from the screen. My current Planar PD7060 is right at 13ft projecting on to a DIY Wilsonart screen (approx. 1.1 gain) for a modest 111" diagonal picture. Even though it is a 720p projector, it has been a fantastic introduction to FP, and I have been very happy.

I have a little over 7 foot ceilings. Room is approximately 90% light-controlled basement theater. I will have to move the projector placement forward roughly a foot to have decent future-proof placement if I want to go a little bigger with the screen. (as well as optimal lumen as near as I can tell from Jack's calculator.)
I am thinking, if I can upgrade the projector at this time...I'd like to step up to a 120 or 125". This will not be AT, as I don't have the room. (although I'd love to...The clean look of an AT screen wall is my ultimate goal.)

I have seen you suggest going with the Flexi-White if AT is not utilized. Here's the question: Can you elaborate? Why is this? Is the process the same? White over black? What options, if any are there for a grey screen? Paint is not an option. Walls are painted paneling.



I was fully vested in Spandex, until I had read your comment here, and in another older thread.



Thank you in advance...

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post #17 of 86 Old 08-23-2018, 05:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin g. View Post
@kentoe, Congrats on the 2050a. I am about to pull the trigger on the same model.





Not to ThreadJack...I have a question for you @MississippiMan .


My seating is about 14ft from the screen. My current Planar PD7060 is right at 13ft projecting on to a DIY Wilsonart screen (approx. 1.1 gain) for a modest 111" diagonal picture. Even though it is a 720p projector, it has been a fantastic introduction to FP, and I have been very happy.

I have a little over 7 foot ceilings. Room is approximately 90% light-controlled basement theater. I will have to move the projector placement forward roughly a foot to have decent future-proof placement if I want to go a little bigger with the screen. (as well as optimal lumen as near as I can tell from Jack's calculator.)
I am thinking, if I can upgrade the projector at this time...I'd like to step up to a 120 or 125". This will not be AT, as I don't have the room. (although I'd love to...The clean look of an AT screen wall is my ultimate goal.)

I have seen you suggest going with the Flexi-White if AT is not utilized. Here's the question: Can you elaborate? Why is this? Is the process the same? White over black? What options, if any are there for a grey screen? Paint is not an option. Walls are painted paneling.



I was fully vested in Spandex, until I had read your comment here, and in another older thread.



Thank you in advance...
MM is talking about Carl's Flexiwhite. Here is the link https://www.carlofet.com/flexiwhite-...-material.html. The procedure is the same as for spandex but you only need a single layer. The advantage of the flexiwhite is it has a 1.1 gain as opposed to spandex that is 0.7 at best. Spandex is usually only when needed for acoustical transparency for having your speakers behind your screen.
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post #18 of 86 Old 08-23-2018, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ahajr143 View Post
MM is talking about Carl's Flexiwhite. Here is the link https://www.carlofet.com/flexiwhite-...-material.html. The procedure is the same as for spandex but you only need a single layer. The advantage of the flexiwhite is it has a 1.1 gain as opposed to spandex that is 0.7 at best. Spandex is usually only when needed for acoustical transparency for having your speakers behind your screen.



Thanks...I am familiar with the product (have seen it mentioned several times, even researched it before). But I was not clear on why he makes the recommendation. I was also not clear on the install, hence the question if it's still two layers...thank you for clarifying. And I am also familiar with AT screens, as mentioned...I have been aspiring to that look for my theater for a long time. I jut know that I won't be able to achieve it, unless I do some major renovations..




Also, @kentoe...I had not seen if it was mentioned, sorry if it was addressed, but what are you doing with the AC unit behind the screen? If you are covering it, will you not have difficulty cooling the room? Just something that hit me when I looked at the initial post.

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post #19 of 86 Old 08-23-2018, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevin g. View Post
Thanks...I am familiar with the product (have seen it mentioned several times, even researched it before). But I was not clear on why he makes the recommendation. I was also not clear on the install, hence the question if it's still two layers...thank you for clarifying. And I am also familiar with AT screens, as mentioned...I have been aspiring to that look for my theater for a long time. I jut know that I won't be able to achieve it, unless I do some major renovations..

Sorry for the delayed answer....Thread & PM Notifications are lagging or non-existent right now.


ahajr143 has it right. The Flexi is considerably brighter. Also Flexi comes in a Gray shade if one has the Lumen output for it and the desire for more Contrast in their Imagery.


It is a single layer installation...completely opaque. Stretches over a Wood or Aluminum* Frame and attaches using Staples or Screen Tite* channels.

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HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
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post #20 of 86 Old 08-24-2018, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Sorry for the delayed answer....Thread & PM Notifications are lagging or non-existent right now.


ahajr143 has it right. The Flexi is considerably brighter. Also Flexi comes in a Gray shade if one has the Lumen output for it and the desire for more Contrast in their Imagery.


It is a single layer installation...completely opaque. Stretches over a Wood or Aluminum* Frame and attaches using Staples or Screen Tite* channels.
Thanks MM


Does the 2050a have the necessary output to deliver on the gray?

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post #21 of 86 Old 08-25-2018, 01:59 AM
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Yes...at 120" it does.

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HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
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post #22 of 86 Old 08-25-2018, 07:42 AM
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Have you tested the gray? If so...can you point me to your review? (so I don't continue to steal the OP's Thread)

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post #23 of 86 Old 09-02-2018, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by kentoe View Post
Thanks for the insight. How would I go about adding a black felt border? More wood on the outside? Just can't think of how to wrap another section of wood and attach that to the frame that would need to or already have the spandex stapled over.

You could use adhesive Black felt tape or gaffer tape 2 inches wide

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post #24 of 86 Old 09-04-2018, 12:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the idea of the tape.

@kevin g. yes please make your own thread

I'm hopefully planning on buying the Kreg Pocket screw in the next week or two. I finally got the projector up on the ceiling and most of my equipment situated in a closet in the basement. Gotta run speaker cable / subwoofer cable / usb up from there. No sound at the moment, just video / content! The center of the lens is probably within 1/4" of the center of the room. Hopefully I can compensate where the screen is and can work it all out lining up the projection.

Moving forward, when I get around to buying the lumber, spandex, staple gun, and kreg pocket screw... How do I appropriately stretch the spandex so it's not overstretched and stretched enough. Is there any video anyone suggests or any advice on this front? I've read that everyone usually has someone help them with this step.

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post #25 of 86 Old 09-04-2018, 04:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentoe View Post
Thanks for the idea of the tape.

@kevin g. yes please make your own thread

I'm hopefully planning on buying the Kreg Pocket screw in the next week or two. I finally got the projector up on the ceiling and most of my equipment situated in a closet in the basement. Gotta run speaker cable / subwoofer cable / usb up from there. No sound at the moment, just video / content! The center of the lens is probably within 1/4" of the center of the room. Hopefully I can compensate where the screen is and can work it all out lining up the projection.

Moving forward, when I get around to buying the lumber, spandex, staple gun, and kreg pocket screw... How do I appropriately stretch the spandex so it's not overstretched and stretched enough. Is there any video anyone suggests or any advice on this front? I've read that everyone usually has someone help them with this step.

Just about every thread about Spandex I have posted in or Authored has all the Frame Building - Stretching - Set-Up instructions you'll need.


But you can start at the link below to address the question you have just posed.

Go here: X

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HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
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post #26 of 86 Old 09-04-2018, 06:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Just about every thread about Spandex I have posted in or Authored has all the Frame Building - Stretching - Set-Up instructions you'll need.


But you can start at the link below to address the question you have just posed.

Go here: X
Thanks man! Will be sure to give this a look through, I'm assuming this is yet another thing I'm probably overthinking

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post #27 of 86 Old 09-05-2018, 01:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentoe View Post
Thanks man! Will be sure to give this a look through, I'm assuming this is yet another thing I'm probably overthinking

One can worry overmuch because they don't know how to do a thing....but thinking about it is required to bring clarity and the hoped for ot expected results.


On this, the DIY Screen Forum, it's no shame to have others help you with the "thinking", it's just a requirement that you ask for said help.

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post #28 of 86 Old 10-05-2018, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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So I'm definitely making progress, I'm getting the Kreg Jig in today and looking forward to trying to build this projector screen. I decided to pursue the idea of what this guy had done here: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...ensioning.html





Was a bit PITA though getting this equidistantly aligned with the rear wall and having it be close to "straight" and "even" since the room itself is not perfectly even from end to end. I'm hoping they are good where they are now, will try to mount them to the side walls with some 2x4 / other wood through the double drywall (ugh) into the studs. Then will run the two 2x4's across the span of them to put the french cleats on them to mount the projector screen too.

However, I found out last night when adjusting the image size to around ~89" to 86" (what I was planning on building the screen for) that the bottom of the screen went from roughly 29" up to 32" from the floor UGH. I forgot that shrinking the screen would move this as well. I may just live with it, other than that I'd have to get another longer pipe for the projector to accommodate and have to go back to using my longer power cable because my 1ft one JUST fits.

And now, I'm wondering if I should be placing the FL / FR speakers within the boxes I made (is that too wide?) or behind the Projector screen where the center is (is that too narrow?). I feel like I'm blocking the optimal area for them to sit with how wide I built the boxes.

Receiver: Yamaha RX-V675 7.2
Center Speaker: Chane A2.4
Front Left/Right: Chane A1.4
Surround Left/Right: Fluance XLBP
Subwoofer: VTF-2 MK5
Devices: Vizio M55-C2, Plex Media Server (i5, 8gb, Ubuntu), Fire Tv, Xbox One, PS3
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post #29 of 86 Old 10-05-2018, 03:51 PM
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[QUOTE=
This will give you pieces that are 60"x108" that will be ample to cover a frame for a screen as large as 120" 16:9 diagonal. You should order it on a roll instead of folded -- to avoid creases.[/QUOTE]
Literally did just that from spandex world on Monday. Today it showed up, folded, in a bag.
It costs extra to get it on a roll. Needless to say, I called them for a refund. Luckily, no wrinkles..
Carry on...

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post #30 of 86 Old 10-08-2018, 08:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Started making the screen, pretty sweet using the Kreg Jig! I ran into a few frustrating silly mistakes (wrong depth setting, drilling the holes in the wrong sides...) things I hope to not make the same mistake again -- haha. My bottom 1x3 is currently slightly "bowed" inward but I'm hoping putting the inner slats in will help alleviate and straighten it out.

Questions though:

1. Where should I place my FL / FR speakers? Should they be in the left and right frames toed into the MLP? Or should they be on the outside of the inner framed area behind the screen where the center speaker will be? I think the frame is blocking the optimal position for the FL FR but I don't know if the other options are too wide or two narrow.

2. I am trying my BEST to try to cut precisely, however I've notice that one side of my frame is just SLIGHTLY longer than the other. Have others ran into this stuff? Am I actually going to notice at all? I assume it's not going to matter -- I measured diagonally and I get 86" with the current frame.

Attached my dimensions and measurements that I'm talking about below. Paging @MississippiMan




Receiver: Yamaha RX-V675 7.2
Center Speaker: Chane A2.4
Front Left/Right: Chane A1.4
Surround Left/Right: Fluance XLBP
Subwoofer: VTF-2 MK5
Devices: Vizio M55-C2, Plex Media Server (i5, 8gb, Ubuntu), Fire Tv, Xbox One, PS3
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