My 103" Spandex Screen Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 16 Old 08-30-2018, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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My 103" Spandex Screen Build



To begin, I’d like to thank member Ftoast for his kind assistance and patience in helping me figure out which screen type to use, and tips on the build process. I also received a great deal of help from previous build write-ups, and other members here on AVS to whom I’m grateful.

Prelude
1. Apartment Living room – 25’ wall.
2. The room is light controlled to a degree, but mostly just a dimly lit - mellow atmosphere.
3. The Benq HT2150ST (short throw) projector will be used for all TV and movies, Blu-ray player, PC, HDTV tuner, and a Roku. It will be on quite a bit.
4. Screen Size: 103” diagonal – 95” x 55” outside dimensions.

I chose the Spandex White and Black layer build because of Acoustic Transparency, Low Gain, and it was highly recommended.
In order to get the largest screen possible on this wall (103”), I needed to completely cover my front (3) Rodgers Sound speakers. Anything smaller would not be an upgrade over my previous 70” Sharp HDTV. Go big or not at all! To have an acoustically transparent screen for under $ 300.00 in materials is pretty darn good. In addition, the low gain light properties of the matt Spandex naturally prevents “hot spotting” due to the nature of a “short throw” of the projector – Bright and Close is not such a great thing on a higher gain screen, or so I’m told.

Meat and Potatoes
3 yards Millsikin Matt White Spandex
3 yards Millsikin Matt Black Spandex - Both from Spandex World in NY
2-1/2” x ½” Pine
Half round trim – to elevate the screen off the front of frame
Screen Tight - 1-1/2 x 8’, and 1/16”
Spline cut into 4” pieces
Misc. screws and hardware for corners and center braces
3” - Projector Felt Tape Border - Vibrancy Enhancing by ConClarity

Again, this is a 103” diagonal screen. I made an initial mistake by ordering only 2 yards of each. That would not have worked. The idea is to pull the Spandex tight enough to get rid of the sags and get it taught -not wavy. But, not too tight as to open up the “pores” and ruin the screen surfaces. 3 yards was the right size for this screen.


Using the Screen Tight and 1/16” Spline worked wonders for me and am very happy I didn’t go the staple gun route. This method makes it is easy to start, move around the perimeter, make adjustments, remove, tighten, etc. Not too pricey either. Don’t forget, you have (2) layers of Spandex to stretch over your frame. It’s interesting because my good buddy, who is a carpenter by trade, suggested this method right off the bat without any knowledge of projector screen builds. Hat’s off to CoolLarr!


Pine Select Wood – I admit to not being a wood project guy and will tell you some of this stuff is pricey. What the heck is this, Titanium? Pine select seemed to hit a budget sweet spot for me. But, be aware to check each piece you buy for straightness, if no good - grab another one.

Epilog
The finished product surpassed my expectations in every way. The result was well worth the effort and expense, with no regrets choosing this screen and build. The picture quality is stunning, especially at night, and my speakers are behind it for a cleaner look.


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Last edited by ace5000; 09-10-2018 at 04:45 PM.
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post #2 of 16 Old 08-30-2018, 08:58 PM
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can you show how you put the trim on and what the best way to stretch both fabrics into the screen tite?

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HOveys Media Lounge Build Thread: https://www.avsforum.com/forum/15-ge...ld-thread.html
IMGUR album of build: https://imgur.com/a/4w74FYj
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post #3 of 16 Old 09-01-2018, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=Hossien Oveys;56727182]can you show how you put the trim on and what the best way to stretch both fabrics into the screen tite?



Unfortunately, I don't have any close-ups of the trim, but I used brad nails about every foot.

Stretching the fabric layers was a *itch as I has to do it with the frame standing up. First putting in the spline on the top middle then sides to "tack" it in. I then turned the frame and stretched the fabric just enough to be taught, not too tight, on the bottom. Then the sides, rotating the frame and adjusting as I went. I did it this way because I didn't want to lay the fabric on the carpeted floor afraid I may get fibers in it. There has to be a a better way - like on a large table or flat clean floor.
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post #4 of 16 Old 09-01-2018, 02:57 PM
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I also used Brad nails for the trim...I decided to use the following screen moulding as trim instead of half/quarter round as it was easier to hold it in place than the quarter round.
www.menards.com/main/p-1462879489016.htm

I put a heavy duty tarp down on the concrete floor...then the black spandex...then the frame face down
www.menards.com/main/p-1501136948794.htm

Followed the sequence in page 10 of this guide for spline and stretch...
http://www.seymourav.com/articles/DIYFixedFrame.pdf

Repeated the above steps for the white spandex

Hope it helps!


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post #5 of 16 Old 09-03-2018, 11:08 AM
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Lightbulb Stretching the Truth.........Tru Dat.

Actually, time and many cases of repetition has shown that with either stapling or Screen Tight has shown that Spandex is best stretchd equally at equally spaced locations, starting at the Top-Bottom-Sides-Corners.

As shown below.






The "Seymour" diagram linked to is one specifically intended for their Perforated material that has "no stretch" and that is cut diagonally to try to prevent Morie.


Stretching Spandex in the manner shown eliminates the bunching at the Corners that occurs when someone pulls the Cloth unevenly. Done as above it is much easier to get an equal pull in every direction.
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post #6 of 16 Old 09-04-2018, 04:13 PM
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Just to clarify......


The remaining areas also get pulled from the center to each side.


The method above was first used in a case where there was too much Frame and almost too little Spandex.


When your having to stretch Spandex out to close the maximum allowable, no other sequence works better to assure that the Spandex is stretched equally.
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post #7 of 16 Old 09-10-2018, 04:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Finished room pic added.
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post #8 of 16 Old 09-10-2018, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hossien Oveys View Post
can you show how you put the trim on and what the best way to stretch both fabrics into the screen tite?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
The trim in the OP's picture appears to be installed the opposite of the standard method, which gives a soft edge instead of a square edge. The round side toward the interior of the frame creates a sharp edge and smooth roll off so the screen material does not touch anything within the viewing area. If you are putting black edging around it for masking, then the quarter round is unnecessary.
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post #9 of 16 Old 09-11-2018, 05:32 AM - Thread Starter
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I wanted the Spandex to have a smooth roll-off around the back of the screen. But, I guess if I could have eliminated the trim all together with the addition of a boarder, I would have. No regrets here however as the end result is specatular. The only thing I may redo is the boarder tape along the right side is not perfect, but I'm sure only I would notice.


PS The addition of the Black boarder made a world of difference in the over-all look and presentation.
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Last edited by ace5000; 09-11-2018 at 05:39 AM.
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post #10 of 16 Old 10-04-2018, 04:23 AM
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hi everybody
I am making a 123 inch spandex screen
how muchshould I strech the cloth?
Should I stretch the the black cloth in the back and the white cloth in the front in the same amount?
should the black cloth be visible when the white cloth is stretched?
how should I do :Şaşkın:

thanks for answers

equipment ptoma 143x
matte white and matte black %85 nylon %15 spandex fabric

distance : 13'

size : 123 inch
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post #11 of 16 Old 10-04-2018, 06:06 AM - Thread Starter
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"The idea is to pull the Spandex tight enough to get rid of the sags and get it taught -not wavy. But, not too tight as to open up the “pores” and ruin the screen surfaces."


There are a couple threads on this, but as I said, you do not want to over-stretch. Pull just enough to be taught. Too much and the "pores" in the material will open up and let too much light through. Black first - secure, then White - secure.

Last edited by ace5000; 10-04-2018 at 06:14 AM.
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post #12 of 16 Old 10-04-2018, 08:15 AM
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Any moire?
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post #13 of 16 Old 10-09-2018, 06:44 AM
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did your felt tape stick to the spandex?

I tried to apply some to my screen and it didn't stick very well at all. Is there something i am missing?

Do What?
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post #14 of 16 Old 10-24-2018, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post
Any moire?
I'm using Spandex and have seen absolutely no moire.

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post #15 of 16 Old 10-24-2018, 03:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skylinestar View Post
Any moire?
Quote:
Originally Posted by brazensol View Post
I'm using Spandex and have seen absolutely no moire.

100x that.... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^



Of all the many Spandex Screens owners I have helped personally, as well as everyone else whose has done one, none have ever spoken of seeing a trace of texture from 1/2 a normal viewing distance, let alone Morie caused by any degree of a noticeable Weave.
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post #16 of 16 Old 11-19-2018, 09:56 AM
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How does the screen look with that curved front edges? Seems like the picture would get distorted.
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