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post #1 of 28 Old 04-06-2019, 09:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Another best paint to use for dark theater room

Ok.. I am back updating the theater room.. Looking to improve with a quick paint. I will eventually do a carls screen or something better. But for now... need a quick answer.. theater room is dark. no issues with light walls dark brown .. dark carpet. Drywall is pretty smooth. projector is Sony vpl vw350es.

Thanks .. read a bunch of threads.. but frankly.. overwhelmed.
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post #2 of 28 Old 04-06-2019, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicago66 View Post
Ok.. I am back updating the theater room.. Looking to improve with a quick paint. I will eventually do a carls screen or something better. But for now... need a quick answer.. theater room is dark. no issues with light walls dark brown .. dark carpet. Drywall is pretty smooth. projector is Sony vpl vw350es.

Thanks .. read a bunch of threads.. but frankly.. overwhelmed.
I'm not a fan of the black ceiling but the ceiling height is pretty important. My room has a high ceiling and I went with a deep burgandy on the entire room. A deep grey would be my second choice. BEHR MARQUEE paint is just insane how easily it coats. Searching home theater google images is a great way to get inspiration.

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post #3 of 28 Old 04-06-2019, 03:08 PM
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Screen size is the deciding factor and you give no indication as to what that is / will be, or how it is placed in respect to the Screen wall height and the proximity of the adjoining side walls


However...Brown is not good. Brown reflects a preponderance of light in the Yellow spectrum....and that amounts to being really irritating. I'm glad your changin' up.


Stephen Dohring has it right.....use a very Dark Neutral Grey on the Ceiling.....2 shades lighter on the Walls..

Use a good paint...an Acrylic Interior Enamel (...and quality Primer / Paint combo qualifies ) and use a Matte for the Walls and a Flat for the Ceiling.
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post #4 of 28 Old 04-07-2019, 06:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Morning guys.. sorry I should have been more clear. the room is basically done. I am looking to upgrade the screen. We had our kitchen cabinets redone recently. Painted by professionals to white.. so I took an extra one and put it up to the screen.. WOW... much better.. more definition and blacks were darker and contrast was better.. so I posted. I am thinking of painting it again or Carls screen.

I noticed that the cabinet door is super smooth the wall is not.. infact the screen painted job is more rough than the old wall due to the many times I painted it.. silver, grey ect..

So now I am thinking ... one sand that wall and repaint .. or carls screen..

I notice on amazon product claiming to be leveling paint.. Snake oil? or does it work..

Thanks for all the imput.. screen is 81 x 154.. sony 350es seems to handle it fine actually..
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post #5 of 28 Old 04-07-2019, 09:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Interesting pics of the smooooth cabinet door. its in the center of the screen bottom center
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post #6 of 28 Old 04-07-2019, 11:21 AM
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Windy City Dude.....


Since you Room is done,and you've painted the screen with what is obviously a bright White, the Sony is just barely handling it "fine"...but only if you've absolutely minimized the necessary Throw distance to 18' and then...if the paint you have up is 1.1 gain, your only getting at most...very most...15 foot lambert. That's considered the bare minimum to have anything close to a vibrant image at that size.


Almost for certain your best choice on a budget is to make a Frame and stretch some Carl's Flexi-White across it (...it too is 1.1 Gain...) . No paint....because anything I might suggest that has more gain would most likely introduce graininess artifacts given that your currently enjoying the smoothness of SXRD 4K


I see the real issue as being what I see with some older Sony 4ks. Too low Lumen output to drive 150"er+

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post #7 of 28 Old 04-08-2019, 05:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info.. much appreciated.. I just started another thread.. too much paint dust.. in my head...
I smooth out the wall yesterday with some sanding. Not sure I should be using this paint the workers used on the cabinets.. I thought it might be a good idea.. but... now looking back not sure what is in it.
Might be too reflective. Was thinking of the Carls ultrawhite 4k ... throw is 16 feet from the projector.... not so much a budget.. just wondering what the options are.. thanks

Mississippi you helped me out years ago.. thanks again..
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post #8 of 28 Old 04-08-2019, 07:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Missii... man.. i have questions.

how does the following play into your recomendation..

The screen currently.. if the projector is set to lets say 90 percent bright.. its way to bright .. i lose all contrast.. I am currently watching it at around 53 percent brightness to get good contrast.. going higher and everything starts to washout.

Thanks
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post #9 of 28 Old 04-08-2019, 07:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicago66 View Post
Thanks for the info.. much appreciated.. I just started another thread.. too much paint dust.. in my head...
I smooth out the wall yesterday with some sanding. Not sure I should be using this paint the workers used on the cabinets.. I thought it might be a good idea.. but... now looking back not sure what is in it.
Might be too reflective. Was thinking of the Carls ultrawhite 4k ... throw is 16 feet from the projector.... not so much a budget.. just wondering what the options are.. thanks

Mississippi you helped me out years ago.. thanks again..

You were welcome then, and even more so for considering a return into the breach.


Yes...without even knowing for sure what sheen your cabinet paint is, being that it's something applied to Cabinets I would be fairly safe to say it's probably a Oil Based Eggshell, and that would be too glossy. It would however explain your getting a bright image at the size your shooting onto. If indeed that is the size because................


...............if your 350es is set at 16', according to my number crunchin' the absolute largest size at 16:9 that Throw will allow is 144" diagonal (67" x 128") and at that size at 1.0 gain will be 19 fls......significantly better than 15 fl as before.


I chose that size and gain because you cannot get / use a screen of 174" diagonal with a 16' throw (...as stated in my last post...) as well as that size being a stock size (and gain) for Carls UltraWhite. A few things about the UltraWhite.
  • It has NO stretch. It is strictly intended to be hung "directly" onto a Frame "as is" or onto a perfectly flat surface.
  • It cannot be folded or wrapped around a Frame's edges or it will be irreparably creased...so it must come shipped on a Roll, which adds an additional cost.
  • It is more difficult to work with all around.
  • It's best to order a next-size-up, attach the material to a Frame or Wall using Washer Head Screws so that the hung size is sightly oversized to allow for a overlapping Frame.
  • It's not what you want unless you understand the caveats and are prepared to deal with it's idiosyncrasies.



Other that the above issues,it does have a much smoother surface than does the ProWhite...the latter being a more stiff, easier to hang straight material. Here's the reality check about framing a screen over 144" wide. There is no affordable and/or easily worked framing material over 12' long....and the choice over 10' is limited. You'd have to resort to Aluminum Channel sections, and that would require even more difficult working with.



My goodness...if my opinion matters here, I'd suggest taking the pains to try to smooth the wall...and paint. For such a large screen, and having to deal with variable Formatting, just having the freedom to shoot whatever size suits the occasion is a priceless advantage.


Also, there are paint options available that will give you up to 1.3 gain without undue viewing cone issues, and present a virtually glass smooth image that does not have any sheen.


Consider this....a 144"diagonal 16:9 screen that is 1.3 gain , and hit from 16' will provide fully 25 fl ! Now that is getting up into "Wall Sized TV" image brightness. Heck...even a 154" diagonal (72" x 137") still keeps you at 22 fl.


Yessir....spending whatever time and effort it takes to get at least the proposed Screen area smoothed to near perfection is well worth it because you can then enjoy a "no compromise" levelof enjoyment.


I can help you do any/either of the proposed options, but if you choose to work under the stated parameters you must accept and work with the required instructions. So that would mean that if building a Screen is necessary because the Wall is just "too too", then you should use Flexi-White as the Base material, and paint on a 1.3 gain paint.

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post #10 of 28 Old 04-08-2019, 08:41 AM - Thread Starter
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Missii... your the man.. and think like I do... I actually bought yesterday the Wagner... spray gun 2000. Electric... I did the a painting on the walls and colum myself years ago I am sure I can do the wall screen.. I saw a post that his today on the forum for silver? Those pics of Meg look great..

so tell me your suggestions on the correct paint to get me where you describe above...

Should I spray on some leveling primer I saw advertised on Amazon from paint screen?

going to plastic up the room tonight..

thanks
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post #11 of 28 Old 04-08-2019, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by chicago66 View Post
Missii... your the man.. and think like I do... I actually bought yesterday the Wagner... spray gun 2000. Electric... I did the a painting on the walls and colum myself years ago I am sure I can do the wall screen.. I saw a post that his today on the forum for silver? Those pics of Meg look great..

so tell me your suggestions on the correct paint to get me where you describe above...

Should I spray on some leveling primer I saw advertised on Amazon from paint screen?

going to plastic up the room tonight..

thanks

Leveling Primer is meant to be rolled on....and intruth, any wall defects that need fixing should be done with Lightweight Drywall compound. L-Primer has to be put on pretty heavily to smooth out anything deeper than a 1/64" depression...and a "rise"...? Furgetabowdit.


Wishin' ya had asked first. I seldom suggest people go down the Wagner road anymore. There are much better options slightly above the price point I have linked to here:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wagner-F...-302752649-_-N


.....but if a Wagster it's gotta be....the one above (w/Finish Head) is much preferred.


Real Men use this:
https://www.dipyourcar.com/collectio...dyc-dipsprayer
......along with this Needle Conversion Kit.
Wagner / Earlex sells the 1.0 mm Needle Conversion Kit Part # OHVACGEM10 @ 800-328-8251 Ask for "Direct Sales"



That is a quality Rig....able to paint your House or your Screen.


I'm not following which Thread you looked at....can you grab up a link for me?

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post #12 of 28 Old 04-10-2019, 05:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Thank you for the info..

Suggestions for paint to achieve the 1.3 gain.
Also.. we talk about brightness and LFS...

here is a question I asked on other thread but did not see an answer.. Right now in order to avoid a washout look on colors and achieve good contrast my projector is set at 53% brightness.
What relevance does that have to our calculations above for brightness.. I mean.... We are saying the 1500 lumens.. is lacking but yet I watch at 53%... I might sound confusing .. but I am sure you understand what I am asking..

thanks again..
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post #13 of 28 Old 04-10-2019, 09:10 AM
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...you had to ask, didn'cha?

Quote:
Originally Posted by chicago66 View Post
Thank you for the info..

Suggestions for paint to achieve the 1.3 gain.
Also.. we talk about brightness and LFS...

here is a question I asked on other thread but did not see an answer.. Right now in order to avoid a washout look on colors and achieve good contrast my projector is set at 53% brightness.
What relevance does that have to our calculations above for brightness.. I mean.... We are saying the 1500 lumens.. is lacking but yet I watch at 53%... I might sound confusing .. but I am sure you understand what I am asking..

thanks again..

I do....your reducing the lumen output of your PJ's output so that the dimmer image will make Blacks "look" darker and Colors will look deeper (more saturated) but in doing so you lose the punch and vibrancy you deserve to enjoy. Such is usually accomplished via calibration and the selection of specific viewing Modes (ie: Cinema ) as well as employing Isis settings (...or engaging Auto Iris...)



Both amount to being a "Robbing Peter to Pay Paul" approach, but in some if not all cases necessary for PJ Mfg to hit their specified performance specs. Basically (...and this was almost always ignored...) it was always accepted that a PJ's image would always have to fall far under the brightness levels of a direct view monitor to accomplish such. Also, if a PJ was exceptionally bright,it became much harder to prevent the PJ's Lamp light from intruding onto the Imaging Panels. Everything seemed to work at odds with each other.



To that extent, and because many more individuals do not have the benefit of ideally set up Rooms, Screen Mfg often designed in Contrast enhancement features (darker surfaces) and then sometimes attempted to compensate for the resulting attenuation by adding in Gain increasing features.


Any guesses as to why I and others were driven to counter all those counter productive approaches?


As screen sizes get bigger, too much brightness usually gives way to too little of the same. The advent of HDR also created a demand for brighter PJs and/or higher gain screens.


All the back in 2003-4 I worked with my previous version of MississippiMud (1:1:1 ratio of UPW- Pearl- Deep Base) to include very small amounts of Silver Metallic paint instead of using any Grey Tint. Doing so maintained gain while adding in the contrast and detail enhancing attributes of Silver....but not too much of the latter. That was called MMud-SE (Silver Edition)



Then I started using MMud-SE on Mirrors. That was a World Class application (...it also created a world of controversy )


In early 2004 came RS-MaxxMudd


1qt Behr Ultra Pure White Flat Exterior (HD)
12 oz. Behr Deep Base Flat Exterior (HD)
3 (8oz) bottles - Delta Ceramcoat Metallic Silver #02603 (Michaels)
1 (8oz) bottle - Delta Ceramcoat Pearl #02601 (Michaels)
16 oz. Minwax Polycrylic Satin Finish (HD)
12 oz. Distilled Water


.....and the increase in Silver ramped up the Ambient Light and Contrast improvements to levels heretofore unseen. RS-MaxxMudd pretty much started all the efforts to create / produce better performance in Ambient Light. Not to say it was exclusive in that....just the best at doing it with readily available components.



I feel a different, updated version of RS-MaxxMudd is called for in your case. (...it is also essentially a very close clone of the Silver Fire N/C mix...)



16 oz PPG Diamond Pure White (Home Depot)
12 oz RustOleum Sterling Silver (Lowes or Online) * whatever slight amount of "Greying-up" is needed is provided by the Tint of the Silver
32 oz RustOleum White Pearl (Lowes or Online)
16 oz.RustOleum Ultimate Matte Polyurethane (Lowes or Online)
16 oz. Distilled Water (...add more Water (up to 20 oz.) as is needed to thin paint for spraying.

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post #14 of 28 Old 04-10-2019, 10:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the explanation.. totally get it..
on a side note.. today the sample packs of the carl's screens showed.. I put them on the wall. good and bad.. Bad things.. None of them improved over what I already had.. the Flexiwhite and other white literally are had to see on the wall.. they blend right in with what I have already have..

the good news... in fact my wall painted with some sheen to it looks better.. just my opinion.. i recall doing the wall with sherwin williams and I think some ralph lauren metallic? in fact the wall was rolled and not even sprayed....

So I am thinking... I will repaint per your guidelines above..

Some.. painting is the way to go... really appreciate your input.. and help.. thank you so much...

you stated....

12 oz RustOleum Sterling Silver (Lowes or Online) * whatever slight amount of "Greying-up" is needed is provided by the Tint of the Silver

Question... Do you mean... add the 12 oz.. to the mix... or just a half oz or so... i found it on amazon but only 2 oz.

I assume this is the ppg diamond... flat... yes https://www.homedepot.com/p/PPG-Diam...0-01/304343522



just double checking..

Last edited by chicago66; 04-10-2019 at 11:14 AM.
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post #15 of 28 Old 04-10-2019, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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One other question...

If I wanted to try roling is that doable?

Last edited by chicago66; 04-10-2019 at 11:15 AM.
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post #16 of 28 Old 04-10-2019, 11:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicago66 View Post
Thanks for the explanation.. totally get it..
on a side note.. today the sample packs of the carl's screens showed.. I put them on the wall. good and bad.. Bad things.. None of them improved over what I already had.. the Flexiwhite and other white literally are had to see on the wall.. they blend right in with what I have already ... regardless that my wall is not perfectly flat..
in fact my wall painted with some sheen to it looks better.. just my opinion.. i recall doing the wall with sherwin williams and I think some ralph lauren metallic? in fact the wall was rolled and not even sprayed....

A very, very slight sheen provides a bit of image punch, but also can also and usually does create blooming and/or hot spotting. Sheen is almost universally considered a "bad monkey".


Quote:
So I am thinking... I will repaint per your guidelines above..

Some.. painting is the way to go... really appreciate your input.. and help.. thank you so much...

on this line

12 oz RustOleum Sterling Silver (Lowes or Online) * whatever slight amount of "Greying-up" is needed is provided by the Tint of the Silver

Do you mean... add the 12 oz.. to the mix... or just a half oz or so...
12 oz means exactly that....12 oz. Not at all sure where that "half oz" business comes from?


Quote:
just double checking..
Ok.........

Quote:
Originally Posted by chicago66 View Post
ok... two more quetions.. MM>.

ppg Diamond.. is that eggshell.. ?

NEVER.....unless otherwise stated, no Base is ever a sheen greater than Matte. You will note that the PPG Diamond is stated to be "Flat"...and that means "Flat.
Between the Diamond Flat and the Poly Matte, both help dampen down the Sheen that would otherwise be present when using the Metallic Paints.


Quote:
and rustolem Matte is what color...???
thanks
The Polyurethane is a Clear Matte. That means transparent with only a Matte level sheen when dried....which is next to having No Sheen at all.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rust-Oleum-Ultimate-32-fl-oz-Matte-Water-Based-Polyurethane/
or..........
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Varathane-1-qt-Clear-Matte-Water-Based-Interior-Polyurethane-262074/305587650

Both of the above are made by RustOleum



Will you be spraying (I sincerely hope...) and if so let's make sure you do it correctly.


Mixing into a Clean Container goes as follows:


Using Marshall Town Turbine Mixing Tool: https://www.amazon.com/Marshalltown-.../dp/B00NJYB3SM


Add Water to Poly and mix slowly
Add Silver and Pearl and mix slowly
Add Diamond and mix slowly
Add any additional Water to desired viscosity dependent upon method of application


Do not Whip air into the paint by stirring fast!
Always strain the mixed paint into another clean container...whether your spraying or rolling. You don't want debris or curds to fudge up an otherwise smooth surface.Use 1 Gallon Nylon Strainer Bags.https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-1-ga...36WF/202061359


If you have ANY questions as to where to locate anything or how to apply, post up / PM beforehand.

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Last edited by MississippiMan; 04-10-2019 at 11:29 AM.
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post #17 of 28 Old 04-10-2019, 11:37 AM - Thread Starter
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ok got it... i need 12 OZ.. amazon was selling trial sizes of it 2 oz.. I was thinking by what you said.. just a little bit to grey it up to my taste.. but i understand.. the full 12 OZ.. thanks..
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post #18 of 28 Old 04-11-2019, 05:28 AM - Thread Starter
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mm... i am back with another question... Thanks again for all your help... so as you know I have jumped in and will be repainting my wall. You proposed the above mix that i have order and will do over the weekend.. some additional information...
I got my carl sample pack yesterday and have been messing around with it. came to the following conclusions..

In my dark controlled theater.. no need for any grey screen...
Viewing angles change drasticly with some of the grey screen material.

The three whites are very similar.. frankly my white wall is much better with the whites... and really no difference I see with my paint current wall compared to the three white carl screen samples.. I guess the back and forth posts and read of threads here worked years ago for me...


Can you tell me will this mix be darker.. grey ... than Carls flexiwhite?


Thanks...
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post #19 of 28 Old 04-11-2019, 07:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chicago66 View Post
...

Can you tell me will this mix be darker.. grey ... than Carls flexiwhite?

Thanks...

Hi...,


I wouldn't call Flexi-White as being Grey by any stretch.


The nature of the paint you have on the wall could indeed make it appear brighter than Flexi-White...but that would have to mean it had a gain factor in excess of Flexi's 1.1. That's possible....but as I mentioned before, I'm certain it is the slight amount of Sheen it has that gives it that property and that appearance.



The suggested Mix will indeed be ever so slightly darker than Flexi-white...but will be a very nice, Pearlescent White with a vague undertone of Silver. But it also should be 1.3 gain yet have virtually no viewing cone to be concerned about (60-70 degrees off-Axis )



Your gonna be blissfully happy. But if you have any real concern, go grab up a $15.00 4x8 sheet of Thrifty White Hardboard at Home Depot and have them slice it down to 4x4 and use that for both spraying practice and a test platform. Put it up against the White Wall and observe the differences and then proceed as you feel is right.

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post #20 of 28 Old 04-11-2019, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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thanks for the input..
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post #21 of 28 Old 04-12-2019, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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sanding done.. getting ready to mix it up.. side question.. might sound stupid but here goes.. poloy in old days for flooring turned yellow.. any issues with color shift on these screens given use of polyurethane
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post #22 of 28 Old 04-12-2019, 04:15 PM
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sanding done.. getting ready to mix it up.. side question.. might sound stupid but here goes.. poloy in old days for flooring turned yellow.. any issues with color shift on these screens given use of polyurethane

Not if your using the RustOleum Ultimate.



Back some time ago, before RustOleum Matte was the standard, people were using MinWax Satin, and that stuff did in fact yellow......but my goodness that took over 3-4 years, and then the effect was so slight,only those who used it with extremely White hued screen ever noticed any difference at all.


So in briefer words.......


NO. You'll be cool.

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post #23 of 28 Old 04-12-2019, 05:16 PM - Thread Starter
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So I am thinking this is way to grey.. 12 OZ of Sterling Silver.. was too much... Thinking I will get a gallon of the PPG added in to mellow out... My theater does not need grey.. in my opinion as fully dark and light controlled..

mm ... give me a good mix that is closer to the flexi white... this is tooo grey my man...
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post #24 of 28 Old 04-12-2019, 05:31 PM
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So I am thinking this is way to grey.. 12 OZ of Sterling Silver.. was too much... Thinking I will get a gallon of the PPG added in to mellow out... My theater does not need grey.. in my opinion as fully dark and light controlled..

mm ... give me a good mix that is closer to the flexi white... this is tooo grey my man...



Add 1/2 Gallon of the PPG to the existing mix amount. Any more and you'll have to compensate with more Pearl and Poly to keep the Mix balanced, reflectivity-wise.

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post #25 of 28 Old 04-13-2019, 06:12 AM - Thread Starter
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so I would need to add more poly and pearl.. to keep gain ? is Gain part of reflective parameters .. I have been having some fun this morning playing picaso.. Thanks
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post #26 of 28 Old 04-13-2019, 06:55 AM
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so I would need to add more poly and pearl.. to keep gain ? is Gain part of reflective parameters .. I have been having some fun this morning playing picaso.. Thanks

Absewlootlee! Gain has everything to do with the degree / amount of reflectivity...as well as how and in what direction such reflections are directed (...in the case of truly high gain surfaces...)


When a "Too Dark" mix needs adjusting, if the adjustment is over a certain amount using White, other components not related to the "Greying factor" must also follow suit proportionate to the increase in the additional White. That often means a doubling of everything else....in the least.


The thing that worries you is that you feel you do not need much Grey in a Screen surface. Well....the right kind of Grey...one that does not make Whites and Colors suffer, nor reduces Gain to any noticeable degree can only make a Image look better...more saturated and dynamic. I've redone white Screens with Mixes similar to yours whose owners had expensive, uber-contrast projectors (100,000:1 "Native" Contrast and more) and in every single case, only improvements in perceived Image Quality was obtained.


Too many people listen to the "old guard" opinion that only a White Screen is needed in a Dark environment. Certainly one does not need a DARK Grey that is intended to offset or combat Ambient or Directed light, but a light to medium Grey that contains reflective elements and is essentially translucent over a White Base can appreciably improve both the dynamics as well as the perceived "depth" of a reflected image.(...think multi-coat Clear Coat Colored Car Finish...)


Until we have projectors that deliver a true, 2,000,000:1 Native Contrast at 3K+ Lumen, there will always be room to improve Contrast. Yet even then, if the surface is fully opaque and not a multi-layered approach, the image will always appear "Flatter". Huge contrast, High Resolution and vibrant Color certainly allows for a better looking image on a opaque surface, one that has more appearance of depth and 3-D'ism....but even that won't match up against the applications I espouse.


In short, this Forum has always had Members who needed to / had to make a choice based upon believing...or not, in the properties inherent in advanced Mixes. It should speak volumes that there are no Posts or Threads that state otherwise...except the ones that say Simple works OK enough.

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post #27 of 28 Old 04-14-2019, 06:54 AM - Thread Starter
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mm.... man of man... right on.. thank you for that long reply.. I'm understanding now.. yesterday. spent hours painting different tones as I played artist... daughter comes down and says.. like the right side.. thank god... i could have been there all day painting different shades.. She liked the grey side so much better.. I misconception was that grey reduces gain.. or stated another way you cannot achieve a gain with a grey screen..

this all went down before you post last night..

so yesterday..i ended up taking the mix you have above.. I added like half a gallon of the PPG to lighten up the grey.. I would like to boost that a bit... i have 2 oz of the silver and I have 32 oz of the poly matte at the house... i have some white pearl on the way from amazon.. ( I did a reorder on friday to start over) ..

so my question is..

can I just add in some of the matte? Does the pearl add reflective gain..( i have some ralph lauren metalic for years ago still) ?? I would have to wait on that..
I guess I am asking.. what is used to do color.. and what is added to add reflective ect.

once I added the half gallon to the mix of PPG... i now have a full gallon full of this screen paint..

I reread the posts up there.. i do see you mentioned adding in more pearl and poly... i have the poly... what amount would you recommend... can I use the RL Metallic.. or do I wait for the Amazon delivery.. (could not find rustoleum white pearl anywhere local.. no depot or lowes carries it now)



Thanks
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post #28 of 28 Old 04-14-2019, 03:56 PM
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If the RLM is untinted, it can be used as a additive to the additional White. I would NOT add in anymore Silver.


How much RLM do you have?


In any case, adding the White should have brought you up to speed "Lightening-wise" to a lighter shade of Grey.....and the addition of 20 oz more Poly will improve translucency. I'm almost in favor of holding out at the current Metallic level, but in truth, adding about 16 oz Un-tinted Metallic would do noting detrimental..

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