Originally Posted by soundwave_rider
Its seems like there are two schools of thought discussed and one being that blacker is better. What would you recommend for a more saturated color?
Yeah...there are a few cleverly named Threads that esspouse the use of Black, but.....................
Black ain't all that. It's ugly unless it has a very deep shade and a bit of mild sheen...and then of course it will reflect more light. Black is a hoary old Standard...a Old School myth fostered on many by those who simply believe that because it's Black it's gotta be best to use. Well, any Black that checks off all the boxes is gonna be expensive, and difficult to apply if one wants to avoid obvious application errors.
Truthfully...any Black that does not absorb and / or refract light will still reflect light...primarily the Blue part of the spectrum. This becomes apparent when someone trying to use Black Paint for a surface that is in close right angled proximity to a light source. Yes...it's certainly better than a lighter color as far as dampening ambient light, but as far as directed light, it's effectiveness doesn't outweigh it's ugliness.
A Very deep Charcoal Grey, both Flat or Matte and Neutral in color, will "suppress" reflections to the same degree as a supposedly "better Black", and look far more acceptably cosmetic when the lights are up. It will easily compliment a range of other colors, while a Black pretty much destroys every aspect of a Rooms decor.
Unless you want a Dismal tomb-like environment.
If I'm waxing overlong on the point, it's because I'm not just speaking about my own personal preference, but because of many MANY experiences and fielding some pretty effusive comments made by those who also saw Black for what it really is...a misjudgement.
In your case, dependent upon how high up the top corners of the screen come into each slope, you can expect reflections anyway no matter what you use, unless you sheath an area on each side with Black Velvet, that's the only "Black"that meets all three of the most important criteria. Dark. Absorptive. Classy looking.
[quoteI have already looked into moving the air return and it should be pretty simple to move over one or two studs because there is plenty of vent is a flexible pipe and I would be moving the return closer to the AC unit and not having to stretch the piping. [/QUOTE]
Like minds think alike....at least sometimes.
So I only have access to the side with the tiny door, no access to the other side unless I cut an access but I am not sure how much room I would have. I am not too familiar with sound proofing techniques like you mention so I will have to research that. I have a pair of sealed 18s up there now for messing around with and am finishing some ported 15s that will go back in my living room but will haul them up to test all together to get an idea on my sound leakage when I am done (hopefully I can get them finished within a couple weeks).
As far as access I thinking about having a panel of the false wall removable to get behind because I want to close up the wall and not have a door to get behind that knee wall (at least I thought that would be the best strategy for reducing sound leakage).
You cannot go too wrong with that idea.....but expect that removable Panel to essentially be at /across the Bottom. If you could supply two sets of measurements,,,,width across the Flat Ceiling and width at the top of the Knee wall I could be a bit more defining on my own suggestions as far as the Wall's design.
I will dive deeper into these comments later with some guys who actually know what they are talking about when it comes to some room construction, I am usually the guy who pays people to do work like this but I want to learn and this is a great opportunity. Thanks for the input and I am sure there will be more questions coming soon.
Gee...I'm hoping you meant your comments.