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post #1 of 23 Old 06-06-2019, 10:59 AM - Thread Starter
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DIY Spandex and JVC Projector

I posted this over in the screens section, so moving it over to DIY.

I think I have done enough research to post my assumptions and designs. My room is about 20 deep by 14 wide, it is light controlled, and I will have 2 rows of 3 seats with a 7 inch riser. I am planning on going with a JVC projector either the NX5 or 790, leaning towards the 790. At the projector end of the room I have a soffit and a post (see picture). I created an equal post section on the other side to add symmetry. Between the posts is about 120in wide and 80in high. My plan is to do a AT White on Black Spandex edgeless screen. There will be about 12 inches behind the screen for my HTM 12s. I will then build a bump out along the floor which be about 24 inches high for my 2 18 in subs. This will essentially create a shadow box of about 12 in deep. I plan on going with 2.39:1 screen with a width of 114in, which will create a 3 in trim behind my edgeless screen. I also plan on doing LED strips behind the screen, for when its off. I plan on using SY black velvet to surround the screen. The projector will be about 16.5 feet from the screen.

Any thought son my design. With the JVC 790 at 1900 lumen with my screen size and throw distance, it seems as thought it should be bright enough? Also wondering about masking for 16:9 curtain or panels using magnets?
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post #2 of 23 Old 06-06-2019, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Kowal View Post
I posted this over in the screens section, so moving it over to DIY.

I think I have done enough research to post my assumptions and designs. My room is about 20 deep by 14 wide, it is light controlled, and I will have 2 rows of 3 seats with a 7 inch riser. I am planning on going with a JVC projector either the NX5 or 790, leaning towards the 790.

Lean VERY far in that direction...and don't wait! They are in short supply and will be gone soon as JVC is closing them out (...the edict has already gone out to Distributors...so only product in the pipeline is still available...)



You want the higher Contrast and the marginally higher Lumen output of the 790r. Not just that, but the NX5 is simply overpriced for it's specs and feature set. The Native 4K isn't enough to outweigh the x790's attributes and the EShift5 is the best version that JVC developed.



Quote:
At the projector end of the room I have a soffit and a post (see picture). I created an equal post section on the other side to add symmetry. Between the posts is about 120in wide and 80in high. My plan is to do a AT White on Black Spandex edgeless screen. There will be about 12 inches behind the screen for my HTM 12s. I will then build a bump out along the floor which be about 24 inches high for my 2 18 in subs. This will essentially create a shadow box of about 12 in deep. I plan on going with 2.39:1 screen with a width of 114in, which will create a 3 in trim behind my edgeless screen. I also plan on doing LED strips behind the screen, for when its off. I plan on using SY black velvet to surround the screen. The projector will be about 16.5 feet from the screen.

Any thought son my design. With the JVC 790 at 1900 lumen with my screen size and throw distance, it seems as thought it should be bright enough? Also wondering about masking for 16:9 curtain or panels using magnets?

I like the plan....let me know if you want a edgeless Screen Frame plan to work with, including the necessary Wall Stand-offs

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post #3 of 23 Old 06-06-2019, 11:46 AM
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I knew you would get real responses here and quickly, I posted on his original thread to bring this here because I am going to be looking to do something very similar but I won't hijack the thread with my details and will wait to make my own post Looking forward to start planning very soon
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post #4 of 23 Old 06-06-2019, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Lean VERY far in that direction...and don't wait! They are in short supply and will be gone soon as JVC is closing them out (...the edict has already gone out to Distributors...so only product in the pipeline is still available...)



You want the higher Contrast and the marginally higher Lumen output of the 790r. Not just that, but the NX5 is simply overpriced for it's specs and feature set. The Native 4K isn't enough to outweigh the x790's attributes and the EShift5 is the best version that JVC developed.






I like the plan....let me know if you want a edgeless Screen Frame plan to work with, including the necessary Wall Stand-offs
I was wondering......why is everyone ignoring me. Thanks for pointing out I posted in the wrong thread.

@MississippiMan - yes please!

For the JVC, my theater should be done in 2-3 months. Any thought on holding off until their next line of projects comes out? I see best buy has the 790 for 4k.
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post #5 of 23 Old 06-06-2019, 12:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keith Kowal View Post
I was wondering......why is everyone ignoring me. Thanks for pointing out I posted in the wrong thread.

@MississippiMan - yes please!

For the JVC, my theater should be done in 2-3 months. Any thought on holding off until their next line of projects comes out? I see best buy has the 790 for 4k.

You won't get one later...it's now or spend more for less later. I sent you a PM with a killer deal from a reputable dealer...under $4K too!



Better GRAB IT!!!!!


Frame design coming next.

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post #6 of 23 Old 06-06-2019, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundwave_rider View Post
I knew you would get real responses here and quickly, I posted on his original thread to bring this here because I am going to be looking to do something very similar but I won't hijack the thread with my details and will wait to make my own post Looking forward to start planning very soon

I don't think doubling up will be looked askance on here if the application is the same. Besides...it will save repeating myself!

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post #7 of 23 Old 06-06-2019, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
I don't think doubling up will be looked askance on here if the application is the same. Besides...it will save repeating myself!
Well I just bought my first house with a additional bedroom over the garage, space is approx 17'x14' (I have more than 17' technically but it goes down a hallway so I could mount the projector farther back if needed) and I was hoping to do a 140" 2.35:1 (DIY spandex screen obviously) but I was debating between a JVC like mentioned or the Epson 5050ub/6050ub (more lumens since the spandex is a lower gain screen). I only want one row of seats around 10' from the screen. I wanted the 140" 2.35:1 because 16:9 content will still be on a 110" screen with some masking. I asked in the Epson owners thread if anyone was using a spandex screen but nobody answered that they had so I was going to ask here.
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post #8 of 23 Old 06-06-2019, 12:50 PM
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It's a Frame up!

@Keith Kowal

This illustration should set you on your way. Later if need be we can go over your Lighting and 16:9 Masking plans.
(Simple Black Velvet Curtains on Travis Rods would be a great looking and affordable solution.)


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post #9 of 23 Old 06-13-2019, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
@Keith Kowal

This illustration should set you on your way. Later if need be we can go over your Lighting and 16:9 Masking plans.
(Simple Black Velvet Curtains on Travis Rods would be a great looking and affordable solution.)

Hey MississippiMan, I'm planning to a similar screen build. I'm looking at your diagram, and I understand the upper illustration, but I'm trying to visualize the lower illustration with the 2x4 section and the 3/4" plywood piece. Are those standoffs that attach to the rear wall? Can you explain in any more detail? thanks
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post #10 of 23 Old 06-13-2019, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Danonano View Post
Hey MississippiMan, I'm planning to a similar screen build. I'm looking at your diagram, and I understand the upper illustration, but I'm trying to visualize the lower illustration with the 2x4 section and the 3/4" plywood piece. Are those standoffs that attach to the rear wall? Can you explain in any more detail? thanks

They are indeed Stand Off supports that the Screen Frame rests upon. Their unspecified depth would be relative to the space needed behind the Screen.


Under most normal circumstances if In-Walls were being used, the Screen Frame would / could be mounted using a French Cleat method that would make the Frame fit flush against the Wall.


In this case, a 12" deep area is needed for the Speakers, as well as possibly behind the Frame, a Ambient Bias LED Light system, so a Collar along the inside Rear edges of the Frame would need to be made (not shown)

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post #11 of 23 Old 06-14-2019, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
They are indeed Stand Off supports that the Screen Frame rests upon. Their unspecified depth would be relative to the space needed behind the Screen.


Under most normal circumstances if In-Walls were being used, the Screen Frame would / could be mounted using a French Cleat method that would make the Frame fit flush against the Wall.


In this case, a 12" deep area is needed for the Speakers, as well as possibly behind the Frame, a Ambient Bias LED Light system, so a Collar along the inside Rear edges of the Frame would need to be made (not shown)
Ok thanks.
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post #12 of 23 Old 07-22-2019, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
@Keith Kowal

This illustration should set you on your way. Later if need be we can go over your Lighting and 16:9 Masking plans.
(Simple Black Velvet Curtains on Travis Rods would be a great looking and affordable solution.)


Alright I guess it's time to fire this thread back up because I am actually starting a very similar design but will just be bumping the screen up to 130". I was able to score a RS-540 within the past month which I am very grateful for, when all else fails, call Papa . I like the idea of having a bumped out bottom portion like 30" to be able to hide my front subs (have not decided on what I am getting but I don't want to have to build some crazy narrow boxes to fit behind the wall) then after 30" from the floor the screen area will be recessed to only 12" off the wall (plus the depth of the screen) and I am not sure if the top will bump back out to match the bottom or just go right to the ceiling. A couple important details...

-My room is 17'x14'
-I am trying to keep my throw as short as possible to keep the lumen output as high as possible
-I have a Panamorph DC1 lens so I won't be watching much 16:9 content as long as my devices can accept the setting to stretch to CIH but some simple masking may be added
-I would like to add LED strip lights behind the screen for added coolness when friends come over and I get to show off so a little standoff would be good
-I would like to sit between 9'-10' from the screen, may be able to move closer later but coming from a 65" TV this picture look massive to me
-I will be building 3 HT12 for LRC and going with Volt 10s for all my surround and atmos to get to 7.4.4

I am going to be painting the ceiling black, the walls a dark charcoal, building acoustic panels, removing and putting up new drywall where that small door in the picture with the stairs because I don't need that space for storage and it is technically open to the outside by roof vents. I wish I could afford to re do the entire space and decouple for noise reduction but I will just have to test the neighbors hearing during normal hours and nothing too late.

Hopefully that gets things started back up. I can take some time and draw something up for my false wall layout in AutoCAD if my description was not very easy to follow, I am a engineer and don't do good with words somethings . Really looking forward to getting things rolling to maybe be finished by the end of August or early September.
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post #13 of 23 Old 07-22-2019, 01:50 PM
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OK....let's get started........

...........Again. I just lost about 35 minutes of new post to a power loss during a storm.

I'm gonna come back to this a bit later with an in-depth analysis and suggestion.
..........don't cry. I promise it won't hurt.


Meanwhile, here is your front area reposted so as to not make me so dizzy.


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post #14 of 23 Old 07-23-2019, 08:04 AM
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Here it is...a "bit later" but here nontheless.....

Quote:
Alright I guess it's time to fire this thread back up because I am actually starting a very similar design but will just be bumping the screen up to 130". I was able to score a RS-540 within the past month which I am very grateful for, when all else fails, call Papa .


Quote:
I like the idea of having a bumped out bottom portion like 30" to be able to hide my front subs (have not decided on what I am getting but I don't want to have to build some crazy narrow boxes to fit behind the wall) then after 30" from the floor the screen area will be recessed to only 12" off the wall (plus the depth of the screen) and I am not sure if the top will bump back out to match the bottom or just go right to the ceiling. A couple important details...
I would take a pass on creating a "Valance-like" Soffit. It will only serve to create another "close-in" reflective surface and so far your sloped ceilings are enough to deal with.

Quote:
-My room is 17'x14'
-I am trying to keep my throw as short as possible to keep the lumen output as high as possible
Well...the PJ is 18.5" deep, and you'll want as much distance from the Rear Wall as possible. It does not seem feasible to have two Rows of seats, so a 120" wide x 50" Screen will do nicely. HOWEVER....I like the idea of your having a 14' - 10" Throw and achieving a 52" x 124" 135" diagonal. (20 fl at those measurements)
Quote:
-I have a Panamorph DC1 lens so I won't be watching much 16:9 content as long as my devices can accept the setting to stretch to CIH but some simple masking may be added
An Oldie but Goodie...your PJ is Anamorphic Ready....so you should have little issue with your 16:9 content
Quote:
-I would like to add LED strip lights behind the screen for added coolness when friends come over and I get to show off so a little standoff would be good
That will require a "L" shaped Light Guard that will direct the light sideways and prevent light from rebounding off the Wall behind the Screen
Quote:
-I would like to sit between 9'-10' from the screen, may be able to move closer later but coming from a 65" TV this picture look massive to me
At 120" to 124" "wide, sitting 10' away from such a screen will be spectacular 2.39:1 viewing. For greater immersion you'll just have to move a seat forward until the image starts to become unwatchable in the periphery unless you rotate your eyes or turn your head...which is not a nice thing. Learning to watch such screens involves practicing...you look straight ahead and teach yourself to let the periphery vision take it all in by itself
Quote:
-I will be building 3 HT12 for LRC and going with Volt 10s for all my surround and atmos to get to 7.4.4
In that room, in order to be placed correctly and maintain a accurate imaging of Object Based effects, the Volts will have to have a Angular adjustment built into the area between the Ceiling Joists.

Quote:
I am going to be painting the ceiling black, the walls a dark charcoal,
Pullleeease...consider a more saturated version of the Wall Paint. And also, screen size as relates to position (height) will be limited by the slopes of the Ceiling. At least the slope is not too severe, and I'm jammin' on the high Knee Walls.
Quote:
building acoustic panels, removing and putting up new drywall where that small door in the picture with the stairs because I don't need that space for storage and it is technically open to the outside by roof vents. I wish I could afford to re do the entire space and decouple for noise reduction but I will just have to test the neighbors hearing during normal hours and nothing too late.
Poooh on that! You do need to investigate the degree of sound leakage you'll get via the Roof Soffits at each side. I'd hope you'd have access behind the Knee walls...and if you do, installing some Fibrous Sheathing across the Attic side of the Soffits can make a tremendous difference. Beyond that, Fauxing out that Widow and placing a dampening cover of Insulation between it and the Screen will go far as to inhibiting the transmission of the room's aural energy.

Quote:
Hopefully that gets things started back up. I can take some time and draw something up for my false wall layout in AutoCAD if my description was not very easy to follow, I am a engineer and don't do good with words somethings . Really looking forward to getting things rolling to maybe be finished by the end of August or early September.
I'd say it's a really good start.....but as stated...the design of the Screen Wall, and how it will relate to potentially having access behind via the Knee Walls, will make this Build be both a great read as well as a instructional Tutorial for those to come.


Edit: Just noted that Cold Air Return on the Left. That will have to be moved....probably, but that is really a minor adjustment if the Plenum is a Flexible type.

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post #15 of 23 Old 07-23-2019, 08:52 AM
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Pullleeease...consider a more saturated version of the Wall Paint.
Its seems like there are two schools of thought discussed and one being that blacker is better. What would you recommend for a more saturated color?

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Just noted that Cold Air Return on the Left. That will have to be moved....probably, but that is really a minor adjustment if the Plenum is a Flexible type.
I have already looked into moving the air return and it should be pretty simple to move over one or two studs because there is plenty of vent is a flexible pipe and I would be moving the return closer to the AC unit and not having to stretch the piping.

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Poooh on that! You do need to investigate the degree of sound leakage you'll get via the Roof Soffits at each side. I'd hope you'd have access behind the Knee walls...and if you do, installing some Fibrous Sheathing across the Attic side of the Soffits can make a tremendous difference. Beyond that, Fauxing out that Widow and placing a dampening cover of Insulation between it and the Screen will go far as to inhibiting the transmission of the room's aural energy.
So I only have access to the side with the tiny door, no access to the other side unless I cut an access but I am not sure how much room I would have. I am not too familiar with sound proofing techniques like you mention so I will have to research that. I have a pair of sealed 18s up there now for messing around with and am finishing some ported 15s that will go back in my livingroom but will haul them up to test all together to get an idea on my sound leakage when I am done (hopefully I can get them finished within a couple weeks).

As far as access I thinking about having a panel of the false wall removable to get behind because I want to close up the wall and not have a door to get behind that knee wall (at least I thought that would be the best strategy for reducing sound leakage).

I will dive deeper into these comments later with some guys who actually know what they are talking about when it comes to some room construction, I am usually the guy who pays people to do work like this but I want to learn and this is a great opportunity. Thanks for the input and I am sure there will be more questions coming soon.
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post #16 of 23 Old 07-23-2019, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by soundwave_rider View Post
Its seems like there are two schools of thought discussed and one being that blacker is better. What would you recommend for a more saturated color?

Yeah...there are a few cleverly named Threads that esspouse the use of Black, but.....................



Black ain't all that. It's ugly unless it has a very deep shade and a bit of mild sheen...and then of course it will reflect more light. Black is a hoary old Standard...a Old School myth fostered on many by those who simply believe that because it's Black it's gotta be best to use. Well, any Black that checks off all the boxes is gonna be expensive, and difficult to apply if one wants to avoid obvious application errors.



Truthfully...any Black that does not absorb and / or refract light will still reflect light...primarily the Blue part of the spectrum. This becomes apparent when someone trying to use Black Paint for a surface that is in close right angled proximity to a light source. Yes...it's certainly better than a lighter color as far as dampening ambient light, but as far as directed light, it's effectiveness doesn't outweigh it's ugliness.



A Very deep Charcoal Grey, both Flat or Matte and Neutral in color, will "suppress" reflections to the same degree as a supposedly "better Black", and look far more acceptably cosmetic when the lights are up. It will easily compliment a range of other colors, while a Black pretty much destroys every aspect of a Rooms decor.



Unless you want a Dismal tomb-like environment.


If I'm waxing overlong on the point, it's because I'm not just speaking about my own personal preference, but because of many MANY experiences and fielding some pretty effusive comments made by those who also saw Black for what it really is...a misjudgement.


In your case, dependent upon how high up the top corners of the screen come into each slope, you can expect reflections anyway no matter what you use, unless you sheath an area on each side with Black Velvet, that's the only "Black"that meets all three of the most important criteria. Dark. Absorptive. Classy looking.


[quoteI have already looked into moving the air return and it should be pretty simple to move over one or two studs because there is plenty of vent is a flexible pipe and I would be moving the return closer to the AC unit and not having to stretch the piping. [/QUOTE]

Like minds think alike....at least sometimes.

Quote:
So I only have access to the side with the tiny door, no access to the other side unless I cut an access but I am not sure how much room I would have. I am not too familiar with sound proofing techniques like you mention so I will have to research that. I have a pair of sealed 18s up there now for messing around with and am finishing some ported 15s that will go back in my living room but will haul them up to test all together to get an idea on my sound leakage when I am done (hopefully I can get them finished within a couple weeks).

As far as access I thinking about having a panel of the false wall removable to get behind because I want to close up the wall and not have a door to get behind that knee wall (at least I thought that would be the best strategy for reducing sound leakage).

You cannot go too wrong with that idea.....but expect that removable Panel to essentially be at /across the Bottom. If you could supply two sets of measurements,,,,width across the Flat Ceiling and width at the top of the Knee wall I could be a bit more defining on my own suggestions as far as the Wall's design.


Quote:
I will dive deeper into these comments later with some guys who actually know what they are talking about when it comes to some room construction, I am usually the guy who pays people to do work like this but I want to learn and this is a great opportunity. Thanks for the input and I am sure there will be more questions coming soon.

Gee...I'm hoping you meant your comments.

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post #17 of 23 Old 07-25-2019, 11:45 AM
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[quote
If you could supply two sets of measurements,,,,width across the Flat Ceiling and width at the top of the Knee wall I could be a bit more defining on my own suggestions as far as the Wall's design.

Gee...I'm hoping you meant your comments.
I'll just start with that I didn't know what a knee wall was until you said it and I had to Google it, haha.

The knee wall is 7' tall, and is 3'3" to the main ceiling (height is 8'10"). So width of flat ceiling is only 7' 6" roughly. I took a picture behind the knee wall but can't get it to post without being sideways but it looks like it would be a real struggle to do work back there.

The stairs are not centered in the room but I was hoping to be able to mount the projector at the top of the stairs to give me that extra throw if the false wall had to be built out farther. Not sure if this would be an issue and was not really thought of when getting the DC1.

When I was referring to what you called "Valance-like" Soffit off the false wall I would not be building any real walls for it if that matters. It would just be a skeleton frame covered in a dual layer of black spandex. This would just be hide my subwoofer boxes to give a more dedicated look. I thought the false walls were all build with just 2x4s covered in a AT material.
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post #18 of 23 Old 07-25-2019, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundwave_rider View Post
I'll just start with that I didn't know what a knee wall was until you said it and I had to Google it, haha.

The knee wall is 7' tall, and is 3'3" to the main ceiling (height is 8'10"). So width of flat ceiling is only 7' 6" roughly. I took a picture behind the knee wall but can't get it to post without being sideways but it looks like it would be a real struggle to do work back there.

A 7' Knee Wall !!! That's more like a Shaquille Shoulder Wall! But that's good!!! More on why below....


Quote:
The stairs are not centered in the room but I was hoping to be able to mount the projector at the top of the stairs to give me that extra throw if the false wall had to be built out farther. Not sure if this would be an issue and was not really thought of when getting the DC1.

I would not build the Screen Wall out any further than absolutely required. And...although the JVC has a LOT of Lens Shift in either direction, setting it very far off centered will directly limit the shift travel of the opposite axis. In your Room you will need Vertical Lens Shift to be optimal, so the Lens really needs to be as close to "Screen Center" (7' in from each side of the Knee Walls) as you possibly can make it.


With the 135" diagonal 2.39:1 C.H.I. layout I have provided below, your Throw can be as short as 15'...and I recommend that is exactly where you place it...and with a Drop of only 6" to the PJ. So up there it can be Centered on the Screen .....so let's keep it that way!


Quote:
When I was referring to what you called "Valance-like" Soffit off the false wall I would not be building any real walls for it if that matters. It would just be a skeleton frame covered in a dual layer of black spandex. This would just be hide my subwoofer boxes to give a more dedicated look. I thought the false walls were all build with just 2x4s covered in a AT material.

Don't run screaming from my Drawing.....all it really represents is some 2x4Lumber screwed into the Walls / Ceilings around the perimeter to act as support Blocking. The rest of the enclosure is all separate Spandex wrapped Panels.....the Bottom Three removable(velcro) ...the rest "temporary" screw-affixed to strategically placed supports. Ditto the Screen Frame itself.






The Faux Wall must still out of need be solidly put up
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post #19 of 23 Old 07-25-2019, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
A 7' Knee Wall !!! That's more like a Shaquille Shoulder Wall! But that's good!!! More on why below....





I would not build the Screen Wall out any further than absolutely required. And...although the JVC has a LOT of Lens Shift in either direction, setting it very far off centered will directly limit the shift travel of the opposite axis. In your Room you will need Vertical Lens Shift to be optimal, so the Lens really needs to be as close to "Screen Center" (7' in from each side of the Knee Walls) as you possibly can make it.


With the 135" diagonal 2.39:1 C.H.I. layout I have provided below, your Throw can be as short as 15'...and I recommend that is exactly where you place it...and with a Drop of only 6" to the PJ. So up there it can be Centered on the Screen .....so let's keep it that way!





Don't run screaming from my Drawing.....all it really represents is some 2x4Lumber screwed into the Walls / Ceilings around the perimeter to act as support Blocking. The rest of the enclosure is all separate Spandex wrapped Panels.....the Bottom Three removable(velcro) ...the rest "temporary" screw-affixed to strategically placed supports. Ditto the Screen Frame itself.

Overall I love the design but have a couple concerns cause some of the numbers don’t make sense to me. If I center the projector I will only have a max of 15’ (18.5” JVC + 6” from wall) but that doesn’t leave any space for the false wall to be atleast 10” for my HT12s to fit behind.

Knowing you I assume you had a plan for this. That is the reason I thought I had to offset the projector which I know wasn’t ideal or I have to go with a smaller screen. Based on projector central I could get a 125” with a 14’ throw in order to keep it perfectly centered.

Thoughts?



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post #20 of 23 Old 07-25-2019, 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by soundwave_rider View Post
Overall I love the design but have a couple concerns cause some of the numbers don’t make sense to me. If I center the projector I will only have a max of 15’ (18.5” JVC + 6” from wall) but that doesn’t leave any space for the false wall to be atleast 10” for my HT12s to fit behind.

Knowing you I assume you had a plan for this. That is the reason I thought I had to offset the projector which I know wasn’t ideal or I have to go with a smaller screen. Based on projector central I could get a 125” with a 14’ throw in order to keep it perfectly centered.

Thoughts?

You must be thinking of 125" diagonal because you could not do that (14' throw) at 125" wide.


Now if you increase the Drop distance to 12" Ceiling to Lens Center, the offset to one side could be 12",and if that works then yeah....the recess would be a great solution.


One measurement I lack is the location measurement of the Rear entry. How wide is the Entry, and where do the Sides start out from the Knee Wall?



The JVC has no image offset, so when you invert it, the Top of the image is even with the Top of the Lens when the PJ's Lens is a mid-point in it's vertical Travel. The lower it's placed, the more Horizontal Shift can be accommodated. Usually, 7'-6" is the lowest you would want, so you could match that and get'ter dun.


I have nothing against offsetting the PJ......but we/you gotta be able to center the image after you shift it downward.



Do something...anything...whatever....just don't go smaller.

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post #21 of 23 Old 07-29-2019, 10:21 AM
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You must be thinking of 125" diagonal because you could not do that (14' throw) at 125" wide.


One measurement I lack is the location measurement of the Rear entry. How wide is the Entry, and where do the Sides start out from the Knee Wall?

Yes I was referring to a 125” diagonal but I am trying to stick with this larger screen option for now, why not plan for 135” right?

I will have to measure the entry width but looking at the entry way the left wall is 3.5” from the rooms center if that helps. I am a bit confused on what measurement you are looking for when you ask for the “where do sides start out from the knee wall?”

Had to take the Mrs away for a little anniversary trip this weekend but was able to get home early enough on Sunday move that air return to the next stud to get clearance for the false wall. Still need to finish sealing up the wall but I could only dedicate so much time last night.

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I have come up with a plan to cut out some of the corner wall at the left entry side we were just talking about and extending in into the adjoining room (bathroom) to give the projector a housing location and it just needs to be high enough that I can’t walk into it, I’m a tall guy but the projector will end up sticking out 5” or so if it ends up dead center. I can illustrate with a photo or two later on.



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post #22 of 23 Old 08-09-2019, 07:32 AM
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I haven't made much progress since moving the air return but I am hoping to get my cut out and drywall patch made for the projector final location done this weekend. I am looking to put a order in for spandex and just wanted to make sure 3.5 yards would be right for both (58" tall by 126" long so there will be some extra which is good) and I am also buying the run of black for the bottom removable panels which adds on an extra 4.5 yards but i will just order 6, i like to have extra and not need another order.

I was reading up on velvet when I saw your post in another thread on the SY stuff and think I am going to use that for the middle and top tiers of my wall since it is basically the same price as the black spandex, good looking out without even being asked

I would also like to start building the screen frame now so it will be ready when the spandex shows up, should I follow some of the other designs as far as spacing the support braces just being sure a brace does not fall where my speakers will be? I have a 2D layout drawn up with my final design so I know where the LRC speakers will be placed.
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post #23 of 23 Old 08-09-2019, 09:19 AM
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I would go ahead and get 4 yards if the cost is the same because they charge you for a full yard for the amount past 3 yds. You can always trim excess....but if they short you....?

3.5 yrds amounts to being 126", so yeah...that's still enough given the stretching to be done. You have at least 9"of stretch each direction from dead center (width-wise).


And of course you can make any necessary adjustments to the Framing to accommodate speaker placement, but be advised to at least keep the framing position for the placement of the Screen's framed area as is.

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