Originally Posted by rustypep
Ok, spent part of the day yesterday mapping things out to more detail. Finalized the new room center, rear wall position, retapped the screen on front wall, laid out pillars, etc. So the new room is 6” smaller. It moves in 5” on right and 1” on the left. 5” gives me a 2x4 frame with a 2x2” poplar frame laid over that to hold the wall fabric panels. Lots of space behind for various types of acoustic treatments and speaker positions. I am ditching the chair rail between pillars and going with full vertical panels between the columns to help make the room seem taller. Right now I have 14” columns. Front row side surround speakers will be in the columns and the 2nd row side surrounds will be behind the wall panels.
I will space crown 2” down from the ceiling on side and rear walls so I have a raceway for wiring and can slip in ceiling treatments. I am taking 2” ceiling treatments 1-2’ in from walls around perimeter to form a soffit and then center of ceiling can have up to a 1” treatment. Gives the illusion of a soffit while breaking up the ceiling.
The new screen actually falls about 4 inches in on each side from opposing studs. So I can bump the wall out if I wanted pretty easily. I will go with blackout up to the first pillar and outside edge of fake soffit. So that’s 4’4” of blackout into the room on walls and ceiling.
As far as a riser for the third row, it won’t work. The bar ends a few inches before an outside wall corner that leads into a 12x12 bump out space. I am building pillars but that would only give me a riser depth of 18” inches unless I block the entrance to that area. So that won’t work but I think it will be ok. Some of the time it will be just me sitting at the bar anyway while the kids watch movies/play games and I work on the laptop. I am not going fret about optimizing the view from there based on the first row.
Makes a lot of frettin'go away.
So right now my seat distances are based on a screen 4” in front of the front wall. So I can give up an inch or two more if I need to.
I also confirmed I can move the projector up a foot to 16’ and maybe another 3” beyond that if I deepen the screen frame. At 16’, that gives me 39 FL and 24 FL. 15’9” gives me a little more.
As far as foot lambert levels...less is more as relates to distance (Throw) and Screen size.
I reviewed that thread link and think I have seen it before. That is definitely along the lines of what I am thinking so thanks for sharing. Bottom line, I am going frameless with 150” screen. I can handle it. Here is a picture of a dining room that I did the casework on at the last house. I ripped and redid 100% of the casework. The doorway was all drywall before that. Used and own a Kreg jig to do the recessed panels in the doorway. The only difference is I will be using cherry trim this time around.
That too is some very good news. I don't / won't have to wonder nearly as much about upcoming posts.
It was a lot of math for a Sunday but I feel much better about the design and layout. I am going to recess the screen behind the framing for the side panels. Mainly so it is ready when I retrofit the masking system. I can put a basic angle profile on the inside edge of the outer frames next to the screen. Will probably use poplar lumber in a few places to make sure the frames stay straight.
Skin that Cat anyway that seems to fit your thinking.
A few questions:
1) How much and type screen material do I need to do the screen?
For 150" diagonal @ 2.39:1 you'll need 4 yds White Milliskin & 4 yds Black Milliskin
2) What kind of AT blackout material will I use on the panels flanking the screen?
Well....the Black Spandex in a single or dual layer configuration will probably be the best as far as performance as relates to cost and ease of use. Others use various materials, but YRMV with them
3) What type and make of black velvet material is a good match to the above?
Always...and only: https://syfabrics.com/collections/plush-triple-velvet/products/plush-triple-velvet1
4) Is the Chief projector mount that comes with the 6050 the one you mentioned above?
I'm fairly certain that the Chief Mount supplied is the CHIRPMA357 Model Specific ELITE LOCKABLE........and if so.....your good.
5). Is it ok to come into the screen side with panels that are angled from the side wall? Or am I better off coming in at an angle and straitening the wall out before I get to the screen?
Yeah....I've done several Screens with the top and side walls angled in to the edge. I personally love the look, and when I have had such be shown at various Home Show installations, the "Oooo-Ahaaa" factor of that design made it clearly a Attendee favorite. Also, if the slanted in edges are in either Black Spandex or Black Velvet, the degree of edge masking ability is further enhanced by that angle.
I am sure I will have more questions but appreciate all your help and guidance thus far. What do you think of above? Turning into more of a build thread now
Yes...it certainly is. And that's just fine! Many are the projects we handle on this DIY Screen Forum and they can expand well beyond Screen Making itself. I dabble a bit on the Dedicated Theater Design & Construction
Forum, helping where and when I can, but over there exists an abundance of opinions and advice that comes primarily from other Owners, with only a few of us Design Installers spending the real effort to actually explain build procedures. All the other input amounts to being "too many cooks" offering their favorite takes on matters....which is understandable and amounts to being what a Forum is/should be about. The cryin' shame part is that too much input is almost always confusing...even off putting to the Noob, requiring a LOT of comparative reading and vetting.
We don't experience that degree of interaction on this Forum, with more "testimonials" than anything else. Beyond that, it's all a "Get'ter Dun!" mentality....as it's not difficult to help slide someone into a ideally suited Screen/PJ match-up.