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post #31 of 64 Old 09-10-2019, 01:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
It depends of course on the length of the Roller Bar. But if you have the Bar Length right (...and you should...), 104" will do nicely
The roller bar is 106". This leaves some room if it doesn't roll up perfectly. I will paint it or line with black velvet so it doesn't show. The roller bar is silver in color. Thanks. SJ
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post #32 of 64 Old 09-11-2019, 04:09 AM
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The roller bar is 106". This leaves some room if it doesn't roll up perfectly.

Don't say that! If the Material is placed straight across the roller's Adhesive Tape, and the Roller itself is placed Level, you should get no "Barber Pole" wrapping at all. A 1/8"difference at one end from another across 104" of length will multiply quickly with every full rotation of the Roller.


It's no different from hanging a Electric Retractable Screen so that it's level. It simply MUST be done.


It doesn't take being much off to cause a real issue....but you have one thing going for you....the length of the Drop is small, so there won't be that much material to Roll up.

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I will paint it or line with black velvet so it doesn't show. The roller bar is silver in color. Thanks. SJ
You should have at least 1.5-2 turns of Fabric still wrapped around the Roller when the material is extended to the Format Stop Point. Just like a regular Roller Blind, you don't roll it all the way out or you will risk detaching the material off the adhesive tape. If your concerned that the unwrapped Aluminum ends might show (must be a fairly shallow enclosure for that to be a concern...) then applying a Flat Black paint to the ends would be best. Any Fabric covering might cause inadvertent bunching along the edge if the Fabric isn't rolling up absolutely straight.

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post #33 of 64 Old 09-11-2019, 06:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Yeah I intend to have it all level! . Could cut the roller to 104”, but really shouldn’t matter. I’m just going to paint the ends black if needed. SJ
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post #34 of 64 Old 09-11-2019, 08:18 AM
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How I did mine ,This a standard Roll down shade bought the parts and added my own fabric from the fabric store. Not motorized ,Manual which is ok . Don't think you really need Velvet as it thick and heavy. This is fairly thin but blacks out just fine. Hardest part was getting the fabric perfectly level ..Glued it to the roller bar and added a rod on the bottom to weigh it down. that's a 120 inch screen
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post #35 of 64 Old 09-11-2019, 01:06 PM - Thread Starter
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How I did mine ,This a standard Roll down shade bought the parts and added my own fabric from the fabric store. Not motorized ,Manual which is ok . Don't think you really need Velvet as it thick and heavy. This is fairly thin but blacks out just fine. Hardest part was getting the fabric perfectly level ..Glued it to the roller bar and added a rod on the bottom to weigh it down. that's a 120 inch screen
Looks great. Per previous comments, the velvet material is not suppose to be thick or heavy. It is arriving today. SJ
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post #36 of 64 Old 09-11-2019, 03:23 PM
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Looks great. Per previous comments, the velvet material is not suppose to be thick or heavy. It is arriving today. SJ

It won't be.....heavy that is. In fact it would almost assuredly be as light as any other cloth that was opaque enough to block / swallow light.

@ZIRO

Not to say your solution isn't a commendable one.....in fact it looks highly professionally done.

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post #37 of 64 Old 09-11-2019, 05:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
It won't be.....heavy that is. In fact it would almost assuredly be as light as any other cloth that was opaque enough to block / swallow light.

@ZIRO

Not to say your solution isn't a commendable one.....in fact it looks highly professionally done.
The material showed up. Wow, that’s dark and it is not heavy as you mentioned. SJ
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post #38 of 64 Old 09-11-2019, 06:58 PM
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The material showed up. Wow, that’s dark and it is not heavy as you mentioned. SJ

I never said it was heavy...just the opposite.

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post #39 of 64 Old 09-11-2019, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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I never said it was heavy...just the opposite.
That’s what I meant. Just not a good sentence.
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post #40 of 64 Old 09-12-2019, 04:43 AM
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B+ ain't bad.

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That’s what I meant. Just not a good sentence.

Don't sweat it...it's not like I'm the epitome of sentence structure correctness. Now that I've read it again, I see it.


It certainly does gobble up light though! So much so that unless someone actually possesses some to observe it directly, they really cannot have a clue.

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post #41 of 64 Old 09-12-2019, 06:28 AM
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Now that my current pj, JVC RS420, has motorized lens shift and lens position memories, I can simply program the Harmony to set the bottom of the screen black margin border to the bottom of the image, then control the projector to shift the lens so the top of a 2.35 image is flush with a top fixed mask.

Funny it took ~20ys to get motorized lens shift/focus again like my first pj- a Mits X100 XGA
https://www.projectorcentral.com/Mitsubishi-X100.htm
https://www.hcinema.de/pdf/mitsubishilvpx100-en.pdf

Ahh, those were the days- $12K retail new for 200:1 contrast (On a good day), 600 lumens (Less after a week of use) and 1300hr bulb life (more like 600hrs if you wanted your lumens back)

And I was happy to pay $3K for a refurb in 1999!

Don't laugh- the original Panamorph lens was developed using the Chisholm branded version of this projector here in SE MI!


My 2nd pj also had motorized lens- PLV60, but neither had memories for position/focus. AE700 and subsequent Epsons all manual

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post #42 of 64 Old 09-12-2019, 06:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
It won't be.....heavy that is. In fact it would almost assuredly be as light as any other cloth that was opaque enough to block / swallow light.

@ZIRO

Not to say your solution isn't a commendable one.....in fact it looks highly professionally done.
Thanks and FYI behind the Projector screen is a 65inch 3D 4K for casual viewing
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post #43 of 64 Old 09-12-2019, 07:26 AM
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@Rgb


Yes'sir!


I've watched as PJ mfg deleted convenience features to make units more acceptably affordable (since 1998). Just about everyone's PJs (...except the lofty 3-Gun CRTs...) catered to the Business sect, and the trickle down into Residential came about because so many of those Office /Boardroom PJs wound up being taken home for use.

While it may be hard for people today to relate to, absolutely there was a time when the gulf between having those who had a true Home Theater and those who use PJs for everyday entertainment was vast indeed. Lamp replacement was exorbitant. Lumen output minuscule. Resolution.....abysmally low. And that was the $10K+ units.

Just about everything else amounted to being in the realm of a Kenner Easy Show projectors.......

But for those of you who can claim hoary old status, the (Advent) Kloss Video Beam 1000 (circa '72) was the first Projection System primarily for TV viewing, (& BetaMax) and it's "huge" 60" wide "Silver Screen" was always a hit with the "kids".



Children too....



.
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post #44 of 64 Old 09-12-2019, 07:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Don't sweat it...it's not like I'm the epitome of sentence structure correctness. Now that I've read it again, I see it.


It certainly does gobble up light though! So much so that unless someone actually possesses some to observe it directly, they really cannot have a clue.
Does binding the sides create any issue with the roller since the ends will be double thickness? I can see why they need binding. Not sure there is a choice and maybe doesn’t matter. SJ
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post #45 of 64 Old 09-12-2019, 07:32 AM
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I can also see why the side need hemming. Has some binding material or something. You can see it in the fabric link you sent me. Assume the seamstress should fold this behind or cut off? Does hemming the sides interfere at all with proper roll up? Since the ends will be double material in thickness. Thanks. SJ

Yes....the Border Strip can / should be cut, and the edges hemmed when folded "once" over. The Fabric will roll up just fine if set straight on the Roller and the Carriage is level.

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post #46 of 64 Old 09-12-2019, 07:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Changed my post because I realized the border is not on the sides, but rather top/bottom. The sides are just straight cut fabric. The top won’t show and the bottom will be hemmed for the bar. Guess in theory you could just leave the border as it won’t show?
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post #47 of 64 Old 09-12-2019, 07:51 AM
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Changed my post because I realized the border is not on the sides, but rather top/bottom. The sides are just straight cut fabric. The top won’t show and the bottom will be hemmed for the bar. Guess in theory you could just leave the border as it won’t show?

Yeah...your right, and actually the Boarder end of the Fabric will adhere to adhesive strip on the roller better that will the fabric itself. But as to the Weight Bar, I would suppose that would be something for the Seamstress to judge.

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post #48 of 64 Old 09-12-2019, 10:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Dropped off the material with the seamstress. Had to explain what I’m trying to do. Lol. I think she got it. She had the fabric spread out over a large table. Wow that is REALLY black. SJ
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post #49 of 64 Old 09-13-2019, 09:44 AM
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Dropped off the material with the seamstress. Had to explain what I’m trying to do. Lol. I think she got it. She had the fabric spread out over a large table. Wow that is REALLY black. SJ

I know......and that is why if someone is really crowding a surface that is at right angle to a screen, nuthin'........ not nuthin' will absorb that light better than the Black Triple Velvet.


2nd best is ProtoStar material (Flocking for the Interior insides of Telescopes ) but that wondrous stuff isn't even as good when the light gets intense. It's meant to absorb low light that leaks inside a 'Scope.



Black paints....even the most saturated expensive types are still a distant 3rd


There is a Black Nano-Tube coating available that absorbs everything but you'd have to sell a vital Organ...(or 1st Born...) to afford it.

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post #50 of 64 Old 09-13-2019, 02:54 PM - Thread Starter
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So I can mount so the material rolls off of the back of the roller or the front. The advantage of the back is that the material will be closer to the screen. The advantage of dropping from the front, is that the rolled up material which might slightly show will be the fabric backing vs. the velvet. I’m thinking rolling off the back is better and the fabric back is black anyway. Just not as black as the velvet front. Thanks for any suggestions. SJ
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post #51 of 64 Old 09-13-2019, 04:29 PM
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So I can mount so the material rolls off of the back of the roller or the front. The advantage of the back is that the material will be closer to the screen. The advantage of dropping from the front, is that the rolled up material which might slightly show will be the fabric backing vs. the velvet. I’m thinking rolling off the back is better and the fabric back is black anyway. Just not as black as the velvet front. Thanks for any suggestions. SJ

The Velvet should roll down /up from the rear of the roller. I've never built such a Roller Mask where the Roller assembly would be visible...it was always tucked up inside a Wood Casing (Valance) and set higher than the the Screen's casing. In fact...I've almost always used such a Mask with a Fixed Screen so the Valance's sole purpose was to hide the Roller Mask Bar.

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post #52 of 64 Old 09-13-2019, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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The difference with my setup is that the valence is hiding the screen housing which is large as this is a drop down electric. I can easily hide the masking if I place in front of the housing but if I want to get close to the screen it has to be positioned under the screen housing which makes it more visible. Think I will play around and see what works best. Thanks. SJ
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post #53 of 64 Old 09-13-2019, 06:34 PM
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The difference with my setup is that the valence is hiding the screen housing which is large as this is a drop down electric. I can easily hide the masking if I place in front of the housing but if I want to get close to the screen it has to be positioned under the screen housing which makes it more visible. Think I will play around and see what works best. Thanks. SJ

What about mounting the Roller Assembly to the inside Top of the Valence, above the Screen Housing?

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post #54 of 64 Old 09-13-2019, 06:49 PM - Thread Starter
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What about mounting the Roller Assembly to the inside Top of the Valence, above the Screen Housing?
That’s one option but it will put the mask further from the screen. I’m starting to think it won’t matter or even be noticeable. I will look when I get the hardware. Thanks. SJ
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post #55 of 64 Old 09-20-2019, 08:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Seamstress is finishing up the material. So, assuming the roller is installed level, how best to get the fabric straight on the roller? Just place perfectly on the tape that was preinstalled on the roller? The hem bar has a bit of weight to it (1.8 lbs). Will that tape hold the material and hem bar assuming I never roll down all the way. I did purchase extra tape and could add more. Also, I plan on manually rolling up the material before placing in the installation. Plan on getting everything working prior to installing the fabric. Thanks for any suggestions. SJ
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post #56 of 64 Old 09-20-2019, 08:47 AM
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The Tape is pretty strong, and if you have at least 3 full revolutions remaining when full extracted, you should never have any issue.


I don't think you can find any double sided tape of a similar thickness anyway, so use what is provided and use it properly. If you do use a overlay of Fabric Tape for security, do so ONLY over the Border. (I think I remember my doing likewise) One advantage you have is that Cloth Border being so precisely straight, so that should make lining up the Fabric fairly easy. Also the material it is made from will adhere better than the Velvet Fabric itself would. Finally,because the Border is so much thinner than the Velvet, the material will roll up onto the Roller Bar virtually perfectly Flat.


It's all good!



I'm anxious to see the final results, complete with appropriately masked Screen shots.






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post #57 of 64 Old 09-20-2019, 08:58 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. The extra tape I have is the same that came preinstalled on the roller. But won’t use if it is secure. Purchased if I made an error in attaching the fabric and needed more. Lol. SJ
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post #58 of 64 Old 09-20-2019, 10:31 AM - Thread Starter
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The Tape is pretty strong, and if you have at least 3 full revolutions remaining when full extracted, you should never have any issue.


I don't think you can find any double sided tape of a similar thickness anyway, so use what is provided and use it properly. If you do use a overlay of Fabric Tape for security, do so ONLY over the Border. (I think I remember my doing likewise) One advantage you have is that Cloth Border being so precisely straight, so that should make lining up the Fabric fairly easy. Also the material it is made from will adhere better than the Velvet Fabric itself would. Finally,because the Border is so much thinner than the Velvet, the material will roll up onto the Roller Bar virtually perfectly Flat.


It's all good!



I'm anxious to see the final results, complete with appropriately masked Screen shots.






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In re-reading, not understanding where you apply fabric tape for security purposes. Over the border? To have the fabric drop behind the roller, the velvet part of the material will be rolled up inside. The outside of the roller will be the black backing of the material. So, where would I be applying the fabric tape? Thanks! SJ
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post #59 of 64 Old 09-20-2019, 02:31 PM
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In re-reading, not understanding where you apply fabric tape for security purposes. Over the border? To have the fabric drop behind the roller, the velvet part of the material will be rolled up inside. The outside of the roller will be the black backing of the material. So, where would I be applying the fabric tape? Thanks! SJ

Covering the outside of the Border, overlapping onto the Roller.


Ergo....adhesive on both sides.

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post #60 of 64 Old 09-21-2019, 06:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Picked up the fabric and looks good. The people who sold me the roller told me that side hems are generally a big no no as it makes rolling up straight very difficult. I only have 40” to roll up and 1” of extra roller on each end if there are issues. As far as alignment to the roller, the top of the fabric with the border is straight. I’m thinking of aligning to one of the straight canals on the roller. Since they are machine done, it should be exactly straight across the entire length of the roller. Time to start messing with it all... SJ
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