150"-160" AT Screen Build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 61 Old 09-04-2019, 05:58 PM - Thread Starter
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150"-160" AT Screen Build

Hello All, Thanks for this forum and help you relay. I am in process of doing my home theater room and have a need to build an AT screen which will be 150"-160" 16:9 (likely 150"). The projector is Epson 5040UB. Some things below would be very helpful. Any insight is appreciated. I am reading some of the other threads and doing best to learn.

1) Since I have not built the wall that will hold the screen, I need something temporary to use to fine tune seating, projector location, etc. I read some folks used fabric from JoAnn. Any recommendations on what I can use temporarily?

2) I hear Spandex is the way to go for AT screen. In my case, the wall I am building that will hold the screen will have ~4ft of space behind it to house some equipment. Reason 4ft because there is an exit door behind screen. I would need to ensure we can lift the screen up to access equipment and door behind.

3) What specific material do I need? I am reading I need White over Black.

4) Any thread out there that shows the frame build? I am new to some of this and am a visual learner.

5) In terms of equipment, I have a miter saw and circular but no table. I can get the wood cut to measurement at local HD so shouldn't be an issue. I assume I need a stapler as well. Any recommendations? Any other equipment?

Thanks again for this forum. Please let me know if any other questions.

Atlmax
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post #2 of 61 Old 09-04-2019, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlmaximus View Post
Hello All, Thanks for this forum and help you relay. I am in process of doing my home theater room and have a need to build an AT screen which will be 150"-160" 16:9 (likely 150"). The projector is Epson 5040UB. Some things below would be very helpful. Any insight is appreciated. I am reading some of the other threads and doing best to learn.

Steel yur wul....here it comes...........



Quote:
1) Since I have not built the wall that will hold the screen, I need something temporary to use to fine tune seating, projector location, etc. I read some folks used fabric from JoAnn. Any recommendations on what I can use temporarily?
Actually I strongly suggest you build the Screen your going to use and use that for all your "zero'ing" in. You need to have it be the same size anyway to make your ad-judgements so....................


Quote:
2) I hear Spandex is the way to go for AT screen. In my case, the wall I am building that will hold the screen will have ~4ft of space behind it to house some equipment. Reason 4ft because there is an exit door behind screen. I would need to ensure we can lift the screen up to access equipment and door behind.
Spandex is extremely popular as of late, becuase of it's excellent audio performance and ultra smooth surface.....oh yeah,it also costs a dime to a dollar compared to almost every other AT Material that can even come close to it's performance...and very few do anyway.


Quote:
3) What specific material do I need? I am reading I need White over Black.
You have that correct. White & Black Milliskin Spandex
White: https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/795

Black: https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/796



For a 150" Screen, and using the 5040, I gotta suggest that you consider a 2.39:1 Screen and use the 5040's excellent Lens Memory feature to have what is called a Constant Image Height" screen. That is pretty much a prerequisite unless you move into using different Spandex that comes in 120" widths



Quote:
4) Any thread out there that shows the frame build? I am new to some of this and am a visual learner.
Why go searchin' ?


However...you must also be advised that the construction of any 150" diagonal Frame, either 2.39:1 or 16:9 requires finding 1x3 or 1x4 Lumber in 12' lengths...."straight" 12' lengths. Otherwise the Frame must be constructed of 2x4s & 2x3s....also carefully selected for straightness...no bends, twistesor curves.


The two Diagrams below are based on using 1x lumber. If using 2x Lumber becomes necessary, then the measurements will be / must be adjusted accordingly.












Quote:
5) In terms of equipment, I have a miter saw and circular but no table. I can get the wood cut to measurement at local HD so shouldn't be an issue. I assume I need a stapler as well. Any recommendations? Any other equipment?

Thanks again for this forum. Please let me know if any other questions.

Atlmax
It is well advised to make the purchase of a Kreg Pocket Screw Jig Kit.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-K4-...-K4H/202074960



The Stapler I suggest is the Arrow Overhand Stapler (using 1/4" or 1/2" Staples )
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Arrow-Fa...A-_-100049752-





Just so you know.....the 5040 will produce the following Foot Lambert brightness on the 0.7 Gain spandex Screens your wanting.

(Throw distance is shown as being at the optimal distance )



150" 16:9 @ 15'-6" throw 25 fl



150" 2.39.1 @ 16'-3" throw 23 fl


A 150" 2.39:1 C.H.I. Screen will provide a 58" x 103" 118" diagonal screen w/34 fl.
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post #3 of 61 Old 09-05-2019, 09:59 AM - Thread Starter
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MississippiMan: Thanks for helping. I have seen that you have helped so many. Truly an honor to have you chime in on my thread. I will get working per your advice.

A few follow-ups:

1) For 150-160" screen, just confirming 4 yards of each spandex? (I just placed order of 4 Yards each of the two mentioned spandex's - $87 delivered)
2) I steered clear of 2.39:1 because I am mostly into watching sports. Currently, I am maxing out screen size on 16:9 (~150") with 1 foot left for columns on each side of the wall. I am new to this so I am attaching my calculations. I am building the wall right infront of exit door and window.
3) I checked the Homedepot links you relayed but could not pull up the products. Please let me know if below are the tools you are referencing.


https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kreg-Pocket-Hole-Jig/1072743

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GBWRZVZ...dDbGljaz10cnVl

4) New to some of this so not sure if this is good or bad or just FYI ("the 5040 will produce the following Foot Lambert brightness on the 0.7 Gain spandex Screens your wanting'). I checked out projectorcentral website and 150" requires ~15' from screen and I do have that space.

Thanks again for the designs you relayed. I will follow up shortly as I digest them.

-Atlmax


Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Steel yur wul....here it comes...........

White: https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/795
Black: https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/796

For a 150" Screen, and using the 5040, I gotta suggest that you consider a 2.39:1 Screen and use the 5040's excellent Lens Memory feature to have what is called a Constant Image Height" screen. That is pretty much a prerequisite unless you move into using different Spandex that comes in 120" widths

However...you must also be advised that the construction of any 150" diagonal Frame, either 2.39:1 or 16:9 requires finding 1x3 or 1x4 Lumber in 12' lengths...."straight" 12' lengths. Otherwise the Frame must be constructed of 2x4s & 2x3s....also carefully selected for straightness...no bends, twistesor curves.

It is well advised to make the purchase of a Kreg Pocket Screw Jig Kit.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-K4-...-K4H/202074960

The Stapler I suggest is the Arrow Overhand Stapler (using 1/4" or 1/2" Staples )
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Arrow-Fa...A-_-100049752-

Just so you know.....the 5040 will produce the following Foot Lambert brightness on the 0.7 Gain spandex Screens your wanting.

(Throw distance is shown as being at the optimal distance )

150" 16:9 @ 15'-6" throw 25 fl
150" 2.39.1 @ 16'-3" throw 23 fl
A 150" 2.39:1 C.H.I. Screen will provide a 58" x 103" 118" diagonal screen w/34 fl.
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post #4 of 61 Old 09-05-2019, 01:16 PM - Thread Starter
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MississippiMan: I am taking the 16:9 150" layout you relayed and just confirming the numbers but having trouble with things adding up. I am sure I am misstating something. Here is what i did:

1) Took the layout you relayed and translated from nominal to actual values (See attached). I am unable to get to 131" in width when I add up all the measurements left to right. Guidance here would be great.
2) 131" x 74" gives me 150.5" diagonal. Let me know if any issues here or its simply rounding.
3) For French Cleat, if I am understanding it correctly, I will take 36" 1x8 and halfway point run a 45 degree cut.
4) From reading various threads, seems like Poplar wood is the type I should get for the screen build.

-Atlmax
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post #5 of 61 Old 09-05-2019, 06:28 PM
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You cannot use the two Spandex materials I 1st mentioned for a 150" diagonal 16:9 screen! I went on to state that you would have to do a C.H.I. 2.39:1 to reach those figures, or instead switch to using the 120" wide Spandex.


If your determined to do 16:9 at 150" you'd better cancel that order 1st thing in the AM !!!

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post #6 of 61 Old 09-06-2019, 05:23 AM - Thread Starter
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I will try to cancel this am because would like to do 150" 16:9. Which spandex and how much would I need for 150" 16:9?

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
You cannot use the two Spandex materials I 1st mentioned for a 150" diagonal 16:9 screen! I went on to state that you would have to do a C.H.I. 2.39:1 to reach those figures, or instead switch to using the 120" wide Spandex.


If your determined to do 16:9 at 150" you'd better cancel that order 1st thing in the AM !!!
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post #7 of 61 Old 09-06-2019, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlmaximus View Post
I will try to cancel this am because would like to do 150" 16:9. Which spandex and how much would I need for 150" 16:9?

Select Black and White: 4 Yards of each


https://www.rosebrand.com/shop/product.aspx?id=2220
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post #8 of 61 Old 09-06-2019, 10:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, I will get the order placed at Rosebrand for 4 yards each of Black and white 120" spandex (~$185). Also, plan is to pickup wood, jig and screws this weekend. If you get a chance pls let me know on frame design measurements from earlier post. Having some trouble tying out to the numbers. Thanks very much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
@atlmaximus

Select Black and White: 4 Yards of each


https://www.rosebrand.com/shop/product.aspx?id=2220

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post #9 of 61 Old 09-07-2019, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by atlmaximus View Post
Ok, I will get the order placed at Rosebrand for 4 yards each of Black and white 120" spandex (~$185). Also, plan is to pickup wood, jig and screws this weekend. If you get a chance pls let me know on frame design measurements from earlier post. Having some trouble tying out to the numbers. Thanks very much.

Hmmmm..............I thought I responded to that request.






I hope you can find the Poplar in lengths long enough to accommodate the 131" Top and Bottom frame piece.


If not, you would have to switch to using 2x4s for the exterior Frame, reducing the lengths of each end piece and the interior 1x3 Bracing supports to 71".


Also, the Interior Braces would then be set on edge.
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post #10 of 61 Old 09-07-2019, 07:02 AM - Thread Starter
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MississippiMan: Yes, did receive the layout earlier but like an idiot I posted some follow-up without quoting you on the thread and you likely didn't see it. Here are some things where I can use some guidance:

1) Took the layout and translated to actual inches values (See attached). I am unable to get to 131" in width when I add up all the measurements left to right. I assume I just adjust the in between spacing?

2) Is it better to lay interior bracing on edge for stability? Not sure it makes sense when external frame is 1x3. Also, i assume horizontal spacers are needed since we are laying down vertical braces flat?

3) For 1x3 joins with Krig, looks like only 1" screws are only option? In terms of staplers, I assume 1/4" will be fine given 1x3 frame?

4) Any guidance on stretch/staple would be appreciated? Reading some threads, I noticed you may have some updated instructions.

-Atlmax

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Hmmmm..............I thought I responded to that request.

I hope you can find the Poplar in lengths long enough to accommodate the 131" Top and Bottom frame piece.


If not, you would have to switch to using 2x4s for the exterior Frame, reducing the lengths of each end piece and the interior 1x3 Bracing supports to 71".


Also, the Interior Braces would then be set on edge.
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post #11 of 61 Old 09-09-2019, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlmaximus View Post
MississippiMan: Yes, did receive the layout earlier but like an idiot I posted some follow-up without quoting you on the thread and you likely didn't see it. Here are some things where I can use some guidance:

1) Took the layout and translated to actual inches values (See attached). I am unable to get to 131" in width when I add up all the measurements left to right. I assume I just adjust the in between spacing?

Yes......if you just make sure the perimeter measurements are correct, then space the Interior Braces evenly, everything takes care of itself.


Quote:
2) Is it better to lay interior bracing on edge for stability? Not sure it makes sense when external frame is 1x3. Also, i assume horizontal spacers are needed since we are laying down vertical braces flat?
All that is somewhat confusing. The only time Interior Bracing is installed "On Edge" is when the Exterior Frame is made of 1x4s. The forward edge of the 1x3 Interior Braces must be recessed from the front edge of the Exterior Frame.


You should follow the directions laid out in my most recent Thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...tructions.html



The Top & Bottom Horizontal Frame pieces get a additional "Stiffening 1x3 Piece" along the rear inside edge. The Vertical Supports are then laid Flat against the Stiffening 1x3s This not only creates a stiffer Frame that resists any / all bows or twists, it also serves to help actually Straighten small aberrations in the Frame materials. Of course you must still make accurate Cuts, and all butting edges of wood must be straight right angled cuts.


Quote:
3) For 1x3 joins with Krig, looks like only 1" screws are only option? In terms of staplers, I assume 1/4" will be fine given 1x3 frame?
That is not correct. You should use 1.25" Washer Head Pocket Screws....either Fine or Coarse Threaded. Just make sure you set the depth of the Drill bit to the 1.25" - 1.5" setting,and tighten the Stop Collar as tight as possible to prevent slippage.


Quote:
4) Any guidance on stretch/staple would be appreciated? Reading some threads, I noticed you may have some updated instructions.
-Atlmax
You have my Diagram below to follow that shows the sequence of Stapling, it is the same as for a 16:9 screen...as is the designated build techniques, and the images on my recent Thread shows the progression of the build...so you should have more than enough information at hand to proceed with assurance.




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post #12 of 61 Old 09-09-2019, 04:40 PM - Thread Starter
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The URL you shared is extremely helpful. Thank you! Seeing it makes it alot easier for me. Looks like I will need to buy two more 12 ft Poplars for stiffening. I will get to building very soon. A question on Spandex:

I know I need 4 yards of 120" spandex for white, but can I get by with 4 Yards #796 for black by just stretch to cover 150"? Saves some $'s but wanted to check as I don't want to jeopardize the screen build in any way.

-Atlmax

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Yes......if you just make sure the perimeter measurements are correct, then space the Interior Braces evenly, everything takes care of itself.



All that is somewhat confusing. The only time Interior Bracing is installed "On Edge" is when the Exterior Frame is made of 1x4s. The forward edge of the 1x3 Interior Braces must be recessed from the front edge of the Exterior Frame.


You should follow the directions laid out in my most recent Thread:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-d...tructions.html



The Top & Bottom Horizontal Frame pieces get a additional "Stiffening 1x3 Piece" along the rear inside edge. The Vertical Supports are then laid Flat against the Stiffening 1x3s This not only creates a stiffer Frame that resists any / all bows or twists, it also serves to help actually Straighten small aberrations in the Frame materials. Of course you must still make accurate Cuts, and all butting edges of wood must be straight right angled cuts.



That is not correct. You should use 1.25" Washer Head Pocket Screws....either Fine or Coarse Threaded. Just make sure you set the depth of the Drill bit to the 1.25" - 1.5" setting,and tighten the Stop Collar as tight as possible to prevent slippage.



You have my Diagram below to follow that shows the sequence of Stapling, it is the same as for a 16:9 screen...as is the designated build techniques, and the images on my recent Thread shows the progression of the build...so you should have more than enough information at hand to proceed with assurance.


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post #13 of 61 Old 09-10-2019, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlmaximus View Post
The URL you shared is extremely helpful. Thank you! Seeing it makes it alot easier for me. Looks like I will need to buy two more 12 ft Poplars for stiffening. I will get to building very soon. A question on Spandex:

I know I need 4 yards of 120" spandex for white, but can I get by with 4 Yards #796 for black by just stretch to cover 150"? Saves some $'s but wanted to check as I don't want to jeopardize the screen build in any way.

-Atlmax
\\


Yes...overstretching the Black is pretty much a harmless endeavor, and actually somewhat beneficial since overstretching opens up the weave more and thereby improves Aural pass-through/transparency. The 120" Spandex has not be vetted through extensive AT testing like the Milliskin, so it might well be a bit less proficient. Reducing the added effect of the Black by over stretching can only compensate for any such variable.

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post #14 of 61 Old 09-10-2019, 08:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok, will place order with spandex world of 120" Wide Stretch poly spandex-(White #15949 ) and Milliskin (Black #796 ) 4 Yards each and hope for the best.


Pasting Link incase someone needs links later:
https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/15949 (120" white #15949 )
https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/796 (796 Milliskin Black)


Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
\\


Yes...overstretching the Black is pretty much a harmless endeavor, and actually somewhat beneficial since overstretching opens up the weave more and thereby improves Aural pass-through/transparency. The 120" Spandex has not be vetted through extensive AT testing like the Milliskin, so it might well be a bit less proficient. Reducing the added effect of the Black by over stretching can only compensate for any such variable.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
You cannot use the two Spandex materials I 1st mentioned for a 150" diagonal 16:9 screen! I went on to state that you would have to do a C.H.I. 2.39:1 to reach those figures, or instead switch to using the 120" wide Spandex.


If your determined to do 16:9 at 150" you'd better cancel that order 1st thing in the AM !!!
Not trying to hi-jack this thread, but I have looked and looked for what's the most you can stretch miliskin. I'm leaning toward building my screen 2.35 and doing 60x141 (153.25 diag), I'll be sitting roughly 12 feet from the screen. I'm wondering could I use the milliskin for this or would I have to go to 120" roll. Current projector is Christie LHD700 probably going to an Epson 5040 or 5050.

TIA
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post #16 of 61 Old 09-11-2019, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by ColoradoJKUR View Post
Not trying to hi-jack this thread, but I have looked and looked for what's the most you can stretch miliskin. I'm leaning toward building my screen 2.35 and doing 60x141 (153.25 diag), I'll be sitting roughly 12 feet from the screen. I'm wondering could I use the milliskin for this or would I have to go to 120" roll. Current projector is Christie LHD700 probably going to an Epson 5040 or 5050.

TIA

Yes....you can.
3 yards of the Black. 3.5 yards of the white


There...that was easy.

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post #17 of 61 Old 09-11-2019, 10:32 AM
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With the 120” width spandex the black layer is sort of useless because the white is so thick.

Also DO NOT overstretch the 120” the long way or you will have stretch marks on your screen.

I know because I do.


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post #18 of 61 Old 09-11-2019, 12:01 PM
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I want to add that though the 80-20 blend that Milliskin has suggests that one can stretch the Spandex 20% of a given length in each direction, prudence (...as in better safe than sorry...) has led me to advise that stretching should not go beyond 15%. This because so many who want larger (taller) 16:9 formatted Screens (65"-70"+)were sorely tempted to try to stretch Milliskin well out and beyond the 20% Threshold, and the Height aspect is critical since it's total allowance is based upon the width the Spandex comes in (typically 58")



20% of 58" being 11.6" total, that equates to being 5.8" in each direct from the center of the Fabric.
(20% of Length is never an issue)



So.....a Spandex Screen in 16:9 format "could technically" be safely made to be 66" high based on the figures above, still leaving just a hair over 3" (1.5" each direction) for wrapping the material over the outside edge of the constructed Frame. I myself have used that as the benchmark for all advise I have provided, finding that to be the furthest I wanted to chance things.



Now as mentioned above, many want to try to go considerably further, and the concern about that being not that the fabric would not allow that amount of stretch, but that by doing so the Fabric's weave would be opened and distorted, ruining the fabric's ability to provide a artifact-free image.


OK......so the primary reason for all the above is to state that recent use by a few doing exactly that has resulted in postings stating they had not experienced any noticeable deleterious effects even stretch 4-way Milliskin out to 73" (15"- 7.5" each way )


This updated info is not intended to validate or endorse those stated results....but merely to state that one"might consider going as far as 70" Screen height and not be overly concerned. But as is often stated on the Forum.....YRMV. So do so with that in mind.

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post #19 of 61 Old 09-11-2019, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
With the 120” width spandex the black layer is sort of useless because the white is so thick.
Hardly so !!!!! There is still substantial light passage through the 120" White, more than enough to warrant having the Black both block any further such passage as well as improve on-screen contrast / Blacks / and image sharpness.

Quote:
Also DO NOT overstretch the 120” the long way or you will have stretch marks on your screen.

I know because I do.
At least in respect to the latter...your post is a good addendum to mine above. The 120" Spandex is only 2-Way Stretch.....and that is not applicable for the 120" "width....only across the "Length".....which is "length" as in the amount of Yards ordered. If you are planning a Ginormous screen where the length (yards) measurement exceeds 140-150"...it is very wise advise to make a mark on the 120" edges so you do not get the Height and Length mixed up.

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Last edited by MississippiMan; 09-11-2019 at 12:22 PM.
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post #20 of 61 Old 09-11-2019, 12:12 PM
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Mississippi man your opinion carries more weight than mine but I still maintain that black layer isn’t needed. That white layer is insanely thick especially compared to the 60” width.


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post #21 of 61 Old 09-11-2019, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
Mississippi man your opinion carries more weight than mine but I still maintain that black layer isn’t needed. That white layer is insanely thick especially compared to the 60” width.

Well I won't verify or deny that first statement....but if the last actually held true / holds true, then the Gain factor of the 120" should be considerably higher....on the order of 0.9 at least if there is virtually no light being absorbed...and if true, certainly there would also be a decrease in Acoustic Transparency as well. Yay for the first part.....Boo for the last.



I'd say that some definitive measurements need to be taken to ascertain as to if your observation merits suggesting that the 120" Spandex be used in and by itself......especially as relates to advising others of such.

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post #22 of 61 Old 09-11-2019, 12:22 PM
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Fair enough. I certainly have not done any measurements.


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post #23 of 61 Old 09-11-2019, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by JRock3x8 View Post
Fair enough. I certainly have not done any measurements.

Awww...Jason. Your too easy!

You've brought forward something that might be of importance to many who are in fact aspiring to massively sized AT Screen Walls. If they posses JVCs or even Epson 5050s both having abundant Native Contrast and robust Blacks, then the purpose / reasons behind the need for a Black underlay may well /would become redundant. After all it is the porosity of the Milliskin that makes the need for the Black so essential.

And....such a lack of gross porosity might mean that applying Duster Coats of Paint may well be in the realm of feasibility.

All said, it at least is worth pursuing whatever facts can be determined.



Interject anytime...............helps keep the Pot stirred.

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post #24 of 61 Old 09-11-2019, 01:05 PM
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I’m running a budget 4k projector in a perfectly dark room at a relatively short throw.

I’m probably not representative of the use case being presented.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Yes......if you just make sure the perimeter measurements are correct, then space the Interior Braces evenly, everything takes care of itself.



All that is somewhat confusing. The only time Interior Bracing is installed "On Edge" is when the Exterior Frame is made of 1x4s. The forward edge of the 1x3 Interior Braces must be recessed from the front edge of the Exterior Frame.


The Top & Bottom Horizontal Frame pieces get a additional "Stiffening 1x3 Piece" along the rear inside edge. The Vertical Supports are then laid Flat against the Stiffening 1x3s This not only creates a stiffer Frame that resists any / all bows or twists, it also serves to help actually Straighten small aberrations in the Frame materials. Of course you must still make accurate Cuts, and all butting edges of wood must be straight right angled cuts.



That is not correct. You should use 1.25" Washer Head Pocket Screws....either Fine or Coarse Threaded. Just make sure you set the depth of the Drill bit to the 1.25" - 1.5" setting,and tighten the Stop Collar as tight as possible to prevent slippage.



You have my Diagram below to follow that shows the sequence of Stapling, it is the same as for a 16:9 screen...as is the designated build techniques, and the images on my recent Thread shows the progression of the build...so you should have more than enough information at hand to proceed with assurance.
MM, with the roughly 4" bracing how do you recommend placing the bottom portion of the screen to not interfere with the woofers on a tower? For instance my front 3 speakers are going to be Revel F208 towers, with that the brace on the bottom edge what's recommended for height of the screen to not interfere with the audio?
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post #26 of 61 Old 09-11-2019, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ColoradoJKUR View Post
MM, with the roughly 4" bracing how do you recommend placing the bottom portion of the screen to not interfere with the woofers on a tower? For instance my front 3 speakers are going to be Revel F208 towers, with that the brace on the bottom edge what's recommended for height of the screen to not interfere with the audio?

Well.............if the Towers are going behind the Screen...and they can, with all being elevated so that all the Drivers are behind the Screen area....you should be able to get by nicely.


Those Revels are just under 47" high, so they can easily fit between the Top & Bottom of the Screen's horizontal Braces. Of course they weigh a ton....80 lbs, so you can't slack off on the construction of your pedestal / cradles. But............shoot, if that is your biggest issue your getting off easy!

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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Well.............if the Towers are going behind the Screen...and they can, with all being elevated so that all the Drivers are behind the Screen area....you should be able to get by nicely.


Those Revels are just under 47" high, so they can easily fit between the Top & Bottom of the Screen's horizontal Braces. Of course they weigh a ton....80 lbs, so you can't slack off on the construction of your pedestal / cradles. But............shoot, if that is your biggest issue your getting off easy!
Hey MM, just had another question come up. If you want the speaker to be within an 1" of the screen how do you do that the with towers and the frame of the screen being 3" thick?
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post #28 of 61 Old 09-12-2019, 12:44 PM
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The Top of whatever pedestal is made to raise the Speakers to a correct height must have a 3" overhang that would allow the face of the Tower to jut further forward to within a 1" of the Spandex.

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post #29 of 61 Old 09-14-2019, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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MM: Just wanted to share some pictures with you of the frame build. Things went exactly as planned and I have built out the frame that is sturdy and leveled. Screen_Rear_Full pic is of the frame standing with leveler on the top. Perfectly leveled! Only thing I haven't done is put in a screw to attach exterior side frame with the stiffener (see pick Screen_Rear_Top Left). Not sure if its needed. I would need a countersink bit to take care of that.

Spandex should arrive Monday (4 Yds Black Milliskin, 4 Yds 120" White). Still thinking through how I will attach the screen to the wall. I will think through the wall build this weekend. What software do you use to draw up designs?

Thanks for all your guidance.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
\\
Yes...overstretching the Black is pretty much a harmless endeavor, and actually somewhat beneficial since overstretching opens up the weave more and thereby improves Aural pass-through/transparency. The 120" Spandex has not be vetted through extensive AT testing like the Milliskin, so it might well be a bit less proficient. Reducing the added effect of the Black by over stretching can only compensate for any such variable.
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Last edited by atlmaximus; 09-14-2019 at 12:31 PM.
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post #30 of 61 Old 09-14-2019, 01:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by atlmaximus View Post
MM: Just wanted to share some pictures with you of the frame build. Things went exactly as planned and I have built out the frame that is sturdy and leveled. Screen_Rear_Full pic is of the frame standing with leveler on the top. Perfectly leveled! Only thing I haven't done is put in a screw to attach exterior side frame with the stiffener (see pick Screen_Rear_Top Left). Not sure if its needed. I would need a countersink bit to take care of that.
That looks excellent and straight! I didn't have a Countersink Bit, so I just used a large enough Twist Bit that the Screw Head would recess into the hole it makes, and carefully drilled in about a 1/8".

Quote:
Spandex should arrive Monday (4 Yds Black Milliskin, 4 Yds 120" White). Still thinking through how I will attach the screen to the wall. I will think through the wall build this weekend. What software do you use to draw up designs?

Thanks for all your guidance.
Your welcome! Thanks for providing us all an update!

With that Frame design, and the Vertical Supports set back from the Rear 3/4", a French Cleat that spans between two Verticals (laid on top) would be the method to employ.



Software? I don't use no stinkin' software! Unless making Line Drawings and pasting images into MS-Publisher counts.
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Last edited by MississippiMan; 09-14-2019 at 02:19 PM.
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