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post #1 of 13 Old 09-11-2019, 09:06 PM - Thread Starter
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AT Screen top & bottom filler?

Apologies if this isn't the right section -- please point me elsewhere if so!

In the planning phases right now. As you can see in this image, I have a recessed area to place the LCR speakers (don't worry, they'll be on stands). My intent was to then cover them with a 130" spandex screen. The question I really have, is what do people then do with the open space above and below the screen? Anyone have pictures or suggestions? Certainly framing it and putting drywall across it would work but to be honest, was hoping that someone had ideas for something less permanent. It's quite likely that there will be some subwoofers being built and placed back there too, so not dealing with framing would be a plus.



At this point I'm really open to all sorts of suggestions. Bigger screen? The throw distance from a ceiling mount PJ will be ~12'. (And yes, I realize the colors of everything are totally wrong...but it's a battle I'm waiting to fight at a later date.)

Thank you!
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post #2 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 04:58 AM
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Since the primary focus is going to be centered around a DIY Screen, your in 'xactly the right place.



The standard and most practical design is to make a upper and lower Panel of Black or very dark Grey Spandex on a Frame. Such a removable lower Frame would easily accommodate the eventual Sub Woofer. The upper Panel can be more permanently fixed in place, yet still be removable by detaching screws from behind.

The Screen itself can be screwed into place...and removable from behind as well. I do suggest that the Top Panel' slower edge be flush with the bottom edge of the left side Fur Down.

To me the bigger concern is those white room surfaces. Dey gotta go....!
(...the Carpet looks brand new....so I guess we have to live with that. )


Would you like a diagrammed proposal?

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post #3 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 09:12 AM - Thread Starter
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This is new basement construction and my wife was insistent on bright white everything so that it didn't feel like a dungeon. I'm hopeful that once things start coming together, that we can find a reasonable compromise. There have been some deep, rich navy blues that have caught my eye.

Good idea to just make two panels that slot into those openings. That would be simple enough. I'm also considering putting the subs on the bottom and using them for speaker stands, then just leaving it exposed and not covered up. Like this:



Is the 130" size choice OK? Seating (sofa) would be ~9 ft'. Using your instructions for making the frames, I was thinking of just attaching it at the four corners since it'll span that opening. Would it need any additional support?
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post #4 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 09:33 AM
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The above image is close....but there will have to be at least a 3" spacing between the Top surface of the Sub and the Bottom edge of those DIY-SGs


I will review preview your previous image & measurements and the Speaker specifications and produce a diagram specific to those parameters. Expect it by late afternoon / early evening.


I'll also make a couple color suggestions you can run by the Wife.

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post #5 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 09:50 AM - Thread Starter
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No rush at all on a diagram. I appreciate the help, at whatever speed!


The Benjamin Moore blue note is the one specifically that caught my eye.
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post #6 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 09:56 AM
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The reflections are going to be horrible if you keep it that white. Try to talk her into a black rug in front of the screen and painting the ceiling black or a really dark color at least a few feet from the screen.
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 11:50 AM
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Like above, you'll get many who will implore you to go ultra dark...even Black.


We both know dat's not' a'gonna happin'......


Deep Green & Blues are the colors to chose (Sweet Baby...) or at least a Light Grey for walls and a slightly darker Blue/Grey for the ceiling.


ANYTHING even slightly darker and done in a Matte or Flat finish will be a drastic improvement. Perhaps not up to many standards some will attest to as being minimally allowable, but absolutely better than a pure White.

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post #8 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 01:59 PM
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Honestly if your wife is set on keeping the room that light I would look at using an ALR screen to deal with the reflections. I have a smaller room like you and even with my ceiling being black and my carpet being dark brown I had a lot of reflections that washed out my image.
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post #9 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 02:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddylee123 View Post
Honestly if your wife is set on keeping the room that light I would look at using an ALR screen to deal with the reflections. I have a smaller room like you and even with my ceiling being black and my carpet being dark brown I had a lot of reflections that washed out my image.



*chuckle*
I just realized some "cardinal rule" questions haven't even been posed, nor the info supplied as of yet. Just got a bit focused on the buildpart, and a bit depressed about the "Paint" part.


Moving on.....:



What with the Size screen he's doing, and if he's going with White /Black Spandex....and if he's using an appropriately powered PJ (...again, those unknowns...) then the Spandex will do nicely in what would be called "Controlled Lighting"...appropriately directed and muted Room lighting, (incl. Windows) and at least a bit of damped Ambient Light Reflections. Why so? Because of it's Low Gain, the screen itself does not output much more light than it's surface reflections that are left after light absorption. It has a modicum of ALR properties....but only in and of the reasoning it does better than a solid Matte White.



Considering the fact that the top of the screen will be down at least about 10-11" from the Ceiling, and the Side Walls look to be at least 24" on the right and 30" on the left, screen induced reflections will be minimal.


......but not non existent.


But if he shields that window and controls room lighting, he's going to be happy with that AT Screen.






PS...the only worthy AT Screen that is truly ALR in nature costs $1000s, so unless I've read @SccttS and the Wifey wrong, that's not a plausible consideration.

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post #10 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SccttS View Post
No rush at all on a diagram. I appreciate the help, at whatever speed!


The Benjamin Moore blue note is the one specifically that caught my eye.

Jumping ahead of the diagram...I looked at the BM -BN


That is a dark Blue.


So now comes the psychology.....show that Dark Blue to the Wife, and say, "Honey Bunny...I know you don't want the room that dark overall, but what if..." and then suggest that the Ceiling* be painted in that Blue Shade (Matte), the Base Trim and Door/Trim in a Ultra Dark Satin Grey...and the Walls at a half tone of the Ceiling Color. You could even make the Top & Bottom Spandex Masking Panels Blue.

That would be an attractive Room.....one that would smack of "Theater" but not be "Tomb-Like" in shading.....and just maybe if presented right, she'll take all the credit.

*the Ceiling will be / is your biggest liability....it is the largest reflective surface in the room, and is positioned closer to the Screen than anything else.

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post #11 of 13 Old 09-12-2019, 10:10 PM
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Slight reduction of Screen size to allow for the Flush insertion of Screen Frame between side walls of Recessed opening


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Last edited by MississippiMan; 09-12-2019 at 10:14 PM.
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post #12 of 13 Old Yesterday, 07:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Wow, that's a great diagram! Thank you for putting that together!


First a quick comment - they're actually HT-12s, so 18"W x 25"H, x 9.5"D.

Now silly questions time:
  1. Is it typical to elevate the center slightly compared to L&R? Thought I wanted all tweeters to be level.
  2. Once the screen is wrapped, am I screwing it in from the sides? This means I need to be in the cavity behind it to do this. Maybe a hangar solution instead? Or am I not understanding where the screws would go?
  3. Dual fabric screen correct? Using these: White: https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/795 & Black: https://spandexworld.com/c3/catalog/product/796

Love the diagram and ideas!
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post #13 of 13 Old Yesterday, 09:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SccttS View Post
Wow, that's a great diagram! Thank you for putting that together!


First a quick comment - they're actually HT-12s, so 18"W x 25"H, x 9.5"D.

I had to guess, and the cabinets didn't look all that big.


Quote:
Now silly questions time:

I like to say, the only silly questions are the ones you should have asked...but didn't.


Quote:
Is it typical to elevate the center slightly compared to L&R? Thought I wanted all tweeters to be level.
The Right & Left must be elevated so as to fall behind the Screen. They don't need to be positioned centered in the Screen area, but Center Channel always is best Centered. I made the diagram to the ideals that I feel are valid....and while some might take umbrage, they'd have a hard time making a case that there would be anything less than an ideal placement for the Center. Just the same, your raising the Right & Left wouldn't do any harm either.


Quote:
Once the screen is wrapped, am I screwing it in from the sides? This means I need to be in the cavity behind it to do this. Maybe a hangar solution instead? Or am I not understanding where the screws would go?

Access to the Rear would be through the Bottom Panel (Sub opening at center). Right & Left speakers are shallow in depth, so any Shelf/Cradle that is built would allow for the Speakers to be pushed back and access to the sides of the Screen could be from behind had for attaching those areas with Screws. Top edge as well. The Bottom of the Screen Frame is a "bridge"between both sides, and receives it's support via the inserted Lower Panel.


My Diagram creates a Flush assembly across the opening. That would look the best.....



There are variation on the theme to consider. A Wood French Cleat suspended between the two Central uprights, but set forward to a point where the Screen Frame is slightly larger than the opening and does something similar to your original Image/Sketch is workable, but the Bottom panel still needs to be removable unless you plan on lowering down a very heavy Sub Woofer (Mini Marty?) behind it.



Another consideration being that the outside edges of the Screen must be very neatly stretched over the Frame and around to the back where it is stapled. A 64"High Viewing surface Screen will require you pulling the maximum allowable amount of stretch across the Top & Bottom. Recently I have done that myself with no issue, but you must be exacting in you equalizing the amount of stretch each direction out from center. That is why I took the liberty of slightly reducing the Screen size so that it would fit between the Walls.



Quote:

Yes.....3 yards of each



Quote:
Love the diagram and ideas!

Well thank you..... I don't use CAD or Sketch-up. My diagrams are hand made in MS-Pub. I think they are easier for the Layman to comprehend...not so intimidating. I do my best work under pressure, and the clock was ticking on my commitment to get it to you before today...and I almost made it but at 11:57 pm I had to go back and redraw a few things and change measurements and so I missed my self-imposed 12 am. deadline



I went to bed then....disgusted with myself.

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