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post #1 of 45 Old 12-01-2019, 06:02 PM - Thread Starter
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What type of lumber for diy screen?

I've read that you should use 5/4 finger jointed boards for the screen but I can't seem to find any in my area or I don't know what I'm looking for.



I'm in southern Indiana, can any provide a link to what I need to look for? Feel kinda dumb for asking but I can't image it's not available where I'm at. Or can I use something else that isn't prone to warping?



Thanks!
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post #2 of 45 Old 12-01-2019, 08:34 PM
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It is not either necessary or Correct. I'd be interested (...really just curious...) as to where you read that recommendation?


The "Standard" for Frame construction wherever the longest Horizontal piece is no more than 144" is White Poplar 1x3 or 1x4 lumber. Some locations are limited to 120" lengths.


Of course in truth you can use almost any straight, true Lumber whose length can match your needs...but weight, work-ability and cost all factor in on such decisions.


Please don't embarrass a fellow Hoosier (Indy born) by sayin' yur feelin' dumb for askin'. Dumb would "not be askin' " and going on to make a bad choice. If you have a Home Depot in your area, they should sell at least 120" long 1x / 1x4 Poplar. Lowes is usually restricted to 96"ers.


The real deal is to hand pick every piece for straightness. No bows...no twists...no bends.


Poplar is both a hard enough wood to be very rigid, yet soft enough to allow for easy screwing / assembly / Stapling...and it's lighter than a comparable piece of Pine or Fir or Spruce.


So...how big is your proposed Screen Frame? What material is going onto it? Fill in the gaps here and you'll get all the answers you need, not just "Got Wood?"
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post #3 of 45 Old 12-02-2019, 05:20 PM
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In my area, I've had much better luck finding quality poplar at Menards so give them a try if they are in your area.

MississippiMan, I think the reference to the 5/4 FJP wood is from the mega-thread awhile back in one of the first threads using the "goal-post" design to build a false "wall" to hang the screen from. The recommendation there was to use the 5/4 FJP boards for the goal-post part. But you are right, the standard recommendation for the screen frame itself has always been poplar as far as I can tell.
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post #4 of 45 Old 12-02-2019, 10:30 PM - Thread Starter
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Home Depot is local and Menard's is just a 20 minute drive from here.



I assume this is what I'm looking for? https://www.menards.com/main/buildin...4445134648.htm


I'm thinking 110" 16x9 screen. The wall is 125" wide and I need to leave room for speakers. Haven't decided on material yet. I used plain blackout cloth years ago and most recently painted (rolled) a 4x8 board behr ceiling white. All temporary solutions.



This is going in a family room that I have total light control over but the ceiling, carpet and walls are light colors. I can paint the wall behind the screen dark gray but that's it.



Been running myself in circles trying to decide on which projector to get. I want to stay under $1500 for the projector and preferably less but there doesn't seem to be a lot of options in that price range for decent pixel shift 4k projectors. I have a throw distance of 12.5ft. Cables are ran and the projector mount is up. Just need to decide on screen and projector.


Didn't have a choice on where to put the projector mount, that's why I went ahead and hung it.
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post #5 of 45 Old 12-02-2019, 10:42 PM
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Tom,


The best "Budget Choice" is the Epson 3800


After that the Epson 4010


Gosh darn it...the Screen wall is the least important to paint as far as actual performance. The Ceiling directly above the Screen is the worst offender, followed by the Wall at each side if they are closer than 5' from thr Screen's edges.


Painting the Screen Wall a dark Grey makes it look great, and compliments the Projected image. But that's it.

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post #6 of 45 Old 12-02-2019, 10:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I might be able to get by with painting the wall to the right of the screen the dark gray color. There is no wall to the left. Any suggestions on ceiling color that the wife might approve of that's better than ceiling white? I know that's a loaded question. LOL


This is my main room for watching TV but not my home theater. That room is gutted down to the studs right now waiting on the spray foam guy to do his thing then i'll be starting on that project.
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post #7 of 45 Old 12-08-2019, 03:50 PM - Thread Starter
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I was able to paint the entire room Glidden Granite Gray. Looks good and with the lights off it appears fairly dark. The ceiling looks "Hospital White" compared to the walls now. Not sure I like the look of that.
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post #8 of 45 Old 12-08-2019, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom J. Davis View Post
I was able to paint the entire room Glidden Granite Gray. Looks good and with the lights off it appears fairly dark. The ceiling looks "Hospital White" compared to the walls now. Not sure I like the look of that.

If you paint the Ceiling with a Neutral Grey that is even 1/2 as dark as the Granite Grey you will notice a BIG improvement as far as unwanted reflections.

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post #9 of 45 Old 12-08-2019, 09:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
If you paint the Ceiling with a Neutral Grey that is even 1/2 as dark as the Granite Grey you will notice a BIG improvement as far as unwanted reflections.

  • 00NN 31/000 M . . . . "Icon Grey" (~N6)
  • 00NN 37/000 W/B . . "Granite Gray" (~N6.5)
  • 00NN 45/000 ??? . . . "Dover Grey"
  • 00NN 53/000 W/B . . "Veil" (~N7.5)
  • 00NN 62/000 W/B . . "Universal Gray" (~N8)
  • 00NN 72/000 W/B . . "Snow Field" (~N8.5)


I could probably get away with the Universal Gray. Would that be worthwhile? I assume anything would be better than white.
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post #10 of 45 Old 12-09-2019, 03:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom J. Davis View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
If you paint the Ceiling with a Neutral Grey that is even 1/2 as dark as the Granite Grey you will notice a BIG improvement as far as unwanted reflections.

  • 00NN 31/000 M . . . . "Icon Grey" (~N6)
  • 00NN 37/000 W/B . . "Granite Gray" (~N6.5)
  • 00NN 45/000 ??? . . . "Dover Grey"
  • 00NN 53/000 W/B . . "Veil" (~N7.5)
  • 00NN 62/000 W/B . . "Universal Gray" (~N8)
  • 00NN 72/000 W/B . . "Snow Field" (~N8.5)


I could probably get away with the Universal Gray. Would that be worthwhile? I assume anything would be better than white.
Is it recommended to use flat on all the walls?
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post #11 of 45 Old 12-09-2019, 04:13 PM - Thread Starter
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I used eggshell since this is a family room and flat paint scuffs so easily.
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post #12 of 45 Old 12-09-2019, 10:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Anybody know the difference in screen gain between JoAnn blackout cloth, a wall painted with Behr ceiling white and spandex? I know the spandex is considered to be .7 Not sure about the others. I need to post a picture of my wall as it's a very strange layout and in order to have anything other than very thin onwall speakers I would need to use an AT screen.



Starting to think I should have just hung a flat panel on the wall and been done with it. This was supposed to be a small side project. Was going to spend around $1600 on a 75" tv, figured i could do a projection setup for that but it's turned into somewhat of a struggle.
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post #13 of 45 Old 12-13-2019, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Tom,


The best "Budget Choice" is the Epson 3800


After that the Epson 4010


Gosh darn it...the Screen wall is the least important to paint as far as actual performance. The Ceiling directly above the Screen is the worst offender, followed by the Wall at each side if they are closer than 5' from thr Screen's edges.


Painting the Screen Wall a dark Grey makes it look great, and compliments the Projected image. But that's it.
I second that. Epson 3800 is pretty good but $100 over your price range. I would still do it if I were you.

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post #14 of 45 Old 12-13-2019, 06:36 AM
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For lumber I used 1x3 poplar and it was good. You may have a challenge getting straight pieces though. I had to go to 4 different home depots.

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post #15 of 45 Old 12-13-2019, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom J. Davis View Post
Anybody know the difference in screen gain between JoAnn blackout cloth, a wall painted with Behr ceiling white and spandex? I know the spandex is considered to be .7 Not sure about the others. I need to post a picture of my wall as it's a very strange layout and in order to have anything other than very thin onwall speakers I would need to use an AT screen.
Black Out Cloth averages 0.9 gain (Shiny Coated Side) and slightly less on the side where the Cloth Weave is plainly apparent.

A Wall painted with PPG Diamond Brilliant White Matte is just over 1.1 gain.

Quote:
Starting to think I should have just hung a flat panel on the wall and been done with it. This was supposed to be a small side project. Was going to spend around $1600 on a 75" tv, figured i could do a projection setup for that but it's turned into somewhat of a struggle.
Hey...I just bought that $1600.00 75" Samsung QLED 6-series myself for a Family room*....but iffin' I could'a put up 120" on the Wall for even $2k you bet I would'a.

*My living room has 5' Knee Walls and the only high Wall has 3 windows across it....so a big TV is all I got...but it's way better than the hoary old Samsung 55"er it replaced though...

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post #16 of 45 Old 12-15-2019, 04:39 AM
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Side question. I'm in the process of building a 150'' 2.39 screen, which needs approx 12ft lumber in length. But My local home depot doesn't carry poplar board longer than 8ft. Is it feasible to buy 2 pieces of 6ft 1x3 board and stitch them together with screws? Thanks.
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post #17 of 45 Old 12-15-2019, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonBa View Post
Side question. I'm in the process of building a 150'' 2.39 screen, which needs approx 12ft lumber in length. But My local home depot doesn't carry poplar board longer than 8ft. Is it feasible to buy 2 pieces of 6ft 1x3 board and stitch them together with screws? Thanks.
Yes...but they must have sufficient lateral support. By using the 8' sections positioned coming different directions from each side, and making each connection be doubly braced, you can accomplish the task.

Here is an example:




It may be well advised to put Vertical 1x3 Braces at each end of the 1x2 Horizontal Brace
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150" Diagonal 2.39:1 Frame Diagram

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post #19 of 45 Old 12-16-2019, 01:00 AM
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Thanks a lot for this diagram! I ended up going to a HD a little farther from my place to get a longer 11'' one, which by itself is not sufficiently long enough for 150'' 2.39 build. But I figure I could just use the 3'' face of the lumber as the horizontal frame rather than 1'' face shown in the diagram, and add 2x 4'' vertical lumber on the side, making it 140'' in total horizontally, which results in a slightly larger diag size about 151.7'' for 2.40:1 screen.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonBa View Post
Thanks a lot for this diagram! I ended up going to a HD a little farther from my place to get a longer 11'' one, which by itself is not sufficiently long enough for 150'' 2.39 build. But I figure I could just use the 3'' face of the lumber as the horizontal frame rather than 1'' face shown in the diagram, and add 2x 4'' vertical lumber on the side, making it 140'' in total horizontally, which results in a slightly larger diag size about 151.7'' for 2.40:1 screen.
That would be a hodgepodge of construction, and likely than not liable to be out of True. Also heavier, and more difficult to stretch the material onto.

I strongly suggest you consider the "joining method" outlined in this link:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/3106360-what-type-lumber-diy-screen.html#post58960338

You have 11'ers, so you can easily extend the sides by trimming them back just a bit, offsetting them at the Top & Bottom, and adding two extension pieces....as shown in the red circles

The method outlined is so much simpler and does not involve trying to interface on-edge and Flat 1x3s with 2x4 lumber. I've used it on 200" plus screens so it's a proven method.


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post #21 of 45 Old 12-16-2019, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonBa View Post
Thanks a lot for this diagram! I ended up going to a HD a little farther from my place to get a longer 11'' one, which by itself is not sufficiently long enough for 150'' 2.39 build. But I figure I could just use the 3'' face of the lumber as the horizontal frame rather than 1'' face shown in the diagram, and add 2x 4'' vertical lumber on the side, making it 140'' in total horizontally, which results in a slightly larger diag size about 151.7'' for 2.40:1 screen.
That would be a hodgepodge of construction, and likely than not liable to be out of True. Also heavier, and more difficult to stretch the material onto.

I strongly suggest you consider the "joining method" outlined in this link:
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/110-diy-screen-section/3106360-what-type-lumber-diy-screen.html#post58960338

You have 11'ers, so you can easily extend the sides by trimming them back just a bit, offsetting them at the Top & Bottom, and adding two extension pieces....as shown in the red circles

The method outlined is so much simpler and does not involve trying to interface on-edge and Flat 1x3s with 2x4 lumber. I've used it on 200" plus screens so it's a proven method.



I agree. You need to do them like the attached on edge. The last picture shows the cutting to size.
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I agree. You need to do them like the attached on edge. The last picture shows the cutting to size.

Bear in mind that the examples above are of a 120" screen and that frame is supported / toed in on all sides within a framed opening.


The Horizontal 1x3 Braces are essential to prevent the ends of the Screen from bowing, but even more critical if there is to be a joint. Just remember to also offset the Horizontal 1x3 braces....usually best done at the junction of a Vertical Brace


It should look like this:
Front Side.............................................. .................................................. ..................Rear Side



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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Bear in mind that the examples above are of a 120" screen and that frame is supported / toed in on all sides within a framed opening.


The Horizontal 1x3 Braces are essential to prevent the ends of the Screen from bowing, but even more critical if there is to be a joint. Just remember to also offset the Horizontal 1x3 braces....usually best done at the junction of a Vertical Brace


It should look like this:
Front Side.............................................. .................................................. ..................Rear Side



Is the need for horizontal 1x3 on top and bottom because his screen is larger than 120 inches? I did not have those on my 120 inch screen.

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Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
Is the need for horizontal 1x3 on top and bottom because his screen is larger than 120 inches? I did not have those on my 120 inch screen.

Your Screen does not hang on the wall, it is built-in with support on all 4 sides. It is also a 16:9 format, so it is not as comparatively as long (wide) on it's horizontal axis.

The added length vs height of a 2.39:1 screen equals added weight at each end....and as you already know, it is critical that a screen frame be level across it's length.

It's a simple example of gravity at work and how it puts stresses on lengthy objects. To resist downward bowing at each end, there needs to be a Brace...a spine if you will...along the horizontal axis.

Another advantage of adding Horizontal bracing is that the toeing in of such Braces work to pull such a longish Frame into "true" and assure one of having equal dimensions across the diagonal as measured from opposite corners.

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post #25 of 45 Old 12-16-2019, 07:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Your Screen does not hang on the wall, it is built-in with support on all 4 sides. It is also a 16:9 format, so it is not as comparatively as long on it's horizontal axis.



The added length vs height of a 2.39:1 screen equals added weight at each end....and as you already know, it is critical that a screen frame be level across it's length.


It's a simple example of gravity at work and how it puts stresses on lengthy objects.


Another advantage of adding Horizontal bracing is that the toeing in of such Braces work to pull such a longish Frame into "true" and assure one of having equal dimensions across the diagonal as measured from opposite corners.
Got it. Thank you. Just got a bit worried if I missed something out on my core build.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
Got it. Thank you. Just got a bit worried if I missed something out on my core build.

Aww...no you just gotta know THAT wasn't a'gonna happen!


In fact, although you had a lot to manage and get done, in the all in all and looking back, the build was pretty straightforward. I know it seemed almost an insurmountable challenge for someone with no real prior experience using unfamiliar tools, and constructing such precise framing... but you managed it, so in reality your tale is one that should empower other Noobs to take up their own projects with at least some higher degree of confidence.


Put another way:

"If you could do it...almost anyone else can."

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
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post #27 of 45 Old 12-16-2019, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Aww...no you just gotta know THAT wasn't a'gonna happen!


In fact, although you had a lot to manage and get done, in the all in all and looking back, the build was pretty straightforward. I know it seemed almost an insurmountable challenge for someone with no real prior experience using unfamiliar tools, and constructing such precise framing... but you managed it, so in reality your tale is one that should empower other Noobs to take up their own projects with at least some higher degree of confidence.


Put another way:

"If you could do it...almost anyone else can."
Yes the build itself was straightforward. The obstacles that came up (flooring for example) were the things that complicated it.

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Step by Step Theater Build - http://imgur.com/gallery/2tpaSru
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post #28 of 45 Old 12-22-2019, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
Yes the build itself was straightforward. The obstacles that came up (flooring for example) were the things that complicated it.

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Did you get the issues sorted out with your Epson 3800? Noticed in one of the other threads you weren't super happy with the picture quality.
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post #29 of 45 Old 12-22-2019, 09:51 AM
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Step by Step Theater Build - http://imgur.com/gallery/2tpaSru
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post #30 of 45 Old 12-22-2019, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom J. Davis View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by genaccmiller View Post
Yes the build itself was straightforward. The obstacles that came up (flooring for example) were the things that complicated it.

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Did you get the issues sorted out with your Epson 3800? Noticed in one of the other threads you weren't super happy with the picture quality.
Yes the build turned out great but I was not top happy with picture quality. I am slowly isolating the areas. For instance my HDMI cable from uhd player to receiver was a normal one. So I got the 4k monoprice ones and replaced. Now I do see that programming on Netflix and Amazon which are designated 4k are showing up as hdr10 when I check the hdr button on the projector remote as opposed to sdr which was showing up earlier. I haven't had a chance to actually play a uhd or Blu Ray disc (ironically my library seems to have gotten rid of the Blu Ray discs). So I am still playing regular 480p DVDs and they don't look super good on a big screen. But the fact that the 4k content on Amazon and Netflix looks good probably means the DVDs will be good too. Also I still haven't fully tweaked my uhd player or projector settings yet. Slowly getting used to it. But theater build turned out amazing

Step by Step Theater Build - http://imgur.com/gallery/2tpaSru
My Theater Build Youtube Channel - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCs_..._as=subscriber
My Theater Build Thread - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...ld-thread.html
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