120" Diagonal AT Screen - Spandex 16:9 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Forum Jump: 
 4Likes
  • 1 Post By Audiophile75
  • 1 Post By MississippiMan
  • 1 Post By MississippiMan
  • 1 Post By clckwrkorange
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 28 Old 12-11-2019, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
120" Diagonal AT Screen - Spandex 16:9

Light controlled basement room.

7',2" ceilings, 12' wide, 18' long. Screen along the 12' wall.

Projector - Viewsonic px727 4k
Ceiling Projector Distance - 14'
Viewer Distance - 12'

Questions:
  • Black and white or just white?
  • Milliskin Matte (Black) - Item ID#796
  • Milliskin Matte (White) - Item ID#795
  • Any coupon codes?

Would I want 3 or 3.5 yards for this?

Frame is built, unfortunately at 120" diag, so no room to for a black border later on the frame. The frames around this frame will be flush so I'll just need to be precise.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_2084.jpg
Views:	38
Size:	629.3 KB
ID:	2652608  

Last edited by clckwrkorange; 12-11-2019 at 01:21 PM.
clckwrkorange is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 28 Old 12-11-2019, 03:04 PM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 22,691
Mentioned: 320 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4021 Post(s)
Liked: 1892
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
Light controlled basement room.

7',2" ceilings, 12' wide, 18' long. Screen along the 12' wall.

Projector - Viewsonic px727 4k
Ceiling Projector Distance - 14'
Viewer Distance - 12'

Questions:
  • Black and white or just white?
  • Milliskin Matte (Black) - Item ID#796
  • Milliskin Matte (White) - Item ID#795
  • Any coupon codes?

Would I want 3 or 3.5 yards for this?

Frame is built, unfortunately at 120" diag, so no room to for a black border later on the frame. The frames around this frame will be flush so I'll just need to be precise.

3 yard of Black & White

Check the Spandex Code Thread for any Coupons. They are frequent leading up to the Holidays.

Trying to determine why, if your planning a 120" diag. screen that is 107" wide that you cannot accommodate a small border inside the space afforded by having a 12' wide screen wall?


If this is (...it seems obviously so...) to be an Acoustic Screen Wall with all Speakers behind Fabric, if the entire Wall is done in Black Spandex and the Screen set on top of that, you won't need any Border

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #3 of 28 Old 12-11-2019, 03:11 PM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 22,691
Mentioned: 320 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4021 Post(s)
Liked: 1892
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Looking closer, it seems your Frame is built "Flat", with the central supports flush to the outside edges of the frame. You will need to address that by adding a slight "stand off" around the edges...if you haven't already considered such. Quarter Round...the curved edge inward, is the usual method.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 28 Old 12-11-2019, 04:26 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I’ll be painting all parts of the frame black, but the screen will still need to stand-off a bit? I’m confident I’m missing something here. Is that because if might sag a little and show the edges or is it a screen opacity issue? Thank you for your advice!
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #5 of 28 Old 12-11-2019, 06:42 PM
Senior Member
 
Audiophile75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: The middle of Minnesota
Posts: 233
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 169 Post(s)
Liked: 93
The stand off keeps the screen away from the center support so you won’️t see any hard lines from the wood. I did not do any stand off on mine but I did my entire frame with felt and I do not have any problems. I have a similar size room and I just did a 135” AT with 3 1/2 yards to upgrade from my rather small 120 inch. Too bad you couldn’️t upgrade to 135 inch at the same 11 ft MLP as me, worth every penny. My wife even thought it might be too big, she loves it.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/index...3106112?page=1
xpostal likes this.
Audiophile75 is offline  
post #6 of 28 Old 12-11-2019, 07:56 PM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 22,691
Mentioned: 320 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4021 Post(s)
Liked: 1892
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
I’ll be painting all parts of the frame black, but the screen will still need to stand-off a bit? I’m confident I’m missing something here. Is that because if might sag a little and show the edges or is it a screen opacity issue? Thank you for your advice!



Audiophile has it nailed....


When a Frame is built Flat with interior Braces, the entire frame can bow out just 1/8 across 10' and each and every interior brace would standout like a welt from a belt across the back. Or let me tell you about what is the most common occurrence. Moe often it might just be one brace, because the Frame is flat, but a supposedly flat and straight piece turns out to have a very small twist. It's installed with each end flush with the right angled edge of the exterior Frame. What happen next is the torque inherent in the twist gets transferred to "both" horizontal Frames edges and springs the frame out of true.


Really...people usually build flat for just two reasons.

  • They think it's easier (...but it's not really, too many things can go south...)
  • They are looking for as Thin a Frame as possible (...can't fault them there...but there are things that must be done to be certain of "lasting true-ness" and they add cost, and potential Fabric installation woes...)
When a "On Edge" frame is built to exacting measurements, and the Butt ends of each piece are Pocket Screwed, if carefully picked wood it used, the assembly works to straighten out and small defect...and keep it straight.



Why all the fuss? Because there cannot be enough emphasis on avoiding ever having any area of the image have a distinct Vertical line running though a bright area. It's not a pleasant sight, and depressing if it happens 3-4-12 months after the Theater debuts.



In any case, when Flat is an absolute must, then one of the things that must be done is using a standoff. As opposed to a small 1/2" Quater Round, I've seen 1.5" Wood Lattice (1/4"thick) serve the purpose of the QR. It doesn't take much stretch to lift the material off a recessed surface...emphasis on "recessed". Only 1/4" is hugely good, 1/8" just fine if indeed. I couldn't vouch for the thickness of Felt being able to do the job...but I cannot disallow it's possibility.


I see the possibility of creating a virtual Wall Width Acoustic Screen (2.39:1) The Wall is 12' wide, so a 129" wide 2.39:1 Frame would fit in with 6.5" to spare on each side. Now I don't know why the Screen was determined to be so small, but from the rear space I see (3') have looked at , just about anything realistic for the size room can be easily accommodated at each end and in the center areas within the Screen's perimeter. It would be 140"s of epic



Of course with rear access you won't need the French Cleats.

The B&Ws your using up front will fit nicely and the Frame's layout at each end can be easily adjusted. I suppose the rear question would be if you want to bother, and or if going 1:1.2 screen width to viewing distance w/4K is something that is attractive. Your not too far along to consider replacing the design and going truly Cinema is aspect. And just think how much nicer 16:9 will be at 54" high instead of 48"?


'C'mon!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	140 Inch 2.39 to1 1x4 - 1x3 Frame.jpg
Views:	90
Size:	91.7 KB
ID:	2652760   Click image for larger version

Name:	128 inch 239 Frame front.jpg
Views:	99
Size:	402.7 KB
ID:	2652762  
xpostal likes this.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings

Last edited by MississippiMan; 12-11-2019 at 08:05 PM.
MississippiMan is online now  
post #7 of 28 Old 12-12-2019, 03:16 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Audiophile has it nailed....


When a Frame is built Flat with interior Braces, the entire frame can bow out just 1/8 across 10' and each and every interior brace would standout like a welt from a belt across the back. Or let me tell you about what is the most common occurrence. Moe often it might just be one brace, because the Frame is flat, but a supposedly flat and straight piece turns out to have a very small twist. It's installed with each end flush with the right angled edge of the exterior Frame. What happen next is the torque inherent in the twist gets transferred to "both" horizontal Frames edges and springs the frame out of true.


Really...people usually build flat for just two reasons.

  • They think it's easier (...but it's not really, too many things can go south...)
  • They are looking for as Thin a Frame as possible (...can't fault them there...but there are things that must be done to be certain of "lasting true-ness" and they add cost, and potential Fabric installation woes...)
When a "On Edge" frame is built to exacting measurements, and the Butt ends of each piece are Pocket Screwed, if carefully picked wood it used, the assembly works to straighten out and small defect...and keep it straight.



Why all the fuss? Because there cannot be enough emphasis on avoiding ever having any area of the image have a distinct Vertical line running though a bright area. It's not a pleasant sight, and depressing if it happens 3-4-12 months after the Theater debuts.



In any case, when Flat is an absolute must, then one of the things that must be done is using a standoff. As opposed to a small 1/2" Quater Round, I've seen 1.5" Wood Lattice (1/4"thick) serve the purpose of the QR. It doesn't take much stretch to lift the material off a recessed surface...emphasis on "recessed". Only 1/4" is hugely good, 1/8" just fine if indeed. I couldn't vouch for the thickness of Felt being able to do the job...but I cannot disallow it's possibility.


I see the possibility of creating a virtual Wall Width Acoustic Screen (2.39:1) The Wall is 12' wide, so a 129" wide 2.39:1 Frame would fit in with 6.5" to spare on each side. Now I don't know why the Screen was determined to be so small, but from the rear space I see (3') have looked at , just about anything realistic for the size room can be easily accommodated at each end and in the center areas within the Screen's perimeter. It would be 140"s of epic



Of course with rear access you won't need the French Cleats.

The B&Ws your using up front will fit nicely and the Frame's layout at each end can be easily adjusted. I suppose the rear question would be if you want to bother, and or if going 1:1.2 screen width to viewing distance w/4K is something that is attractive. Your not too far along to consider replacing the design and going truly Cinema is aspect. And just think how much nicer 16:9 will be at 54" high instead of 48"?


'C'mon!
OK - That has definitely given me something more to think about!

I picked the 120" screen due to 12' being the best physical position for couch due to the length of the space before it "L's" (I've added the picture to this thread you have been looking at). I followed an article I found on projectorcentral recommending the 120" as ideal for this distance. Also, the rear speakers would push back a bit further than I would like into the "play" space for my kids. NOW this isn't to say I couldn't change things up in the future. All of the side and top frames I've made which you can see leaning in the back will be removable and redoable.

I'm wondering if I'm better off replacing the center braces with longer, offset one or perhaps even a metal U channel. I wasn't trying to cut corners, just followed something I found on Youtube (Youtube, I know, I know).

Again, love the input! I was brainstorming different masking solutions with panels which could be changed out and hung with neodym magnets. When summer rolls around and I have the opportunity to borrow some tools and have a place to cut again, you might see screen 2.0 take shape!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	HT - Front Top (1).JPG
Views:	24
Size:	611.2 KB
ID:	2652844  

Last edited by clckwrkorange; 12-12-2019 at 04:11 AM.
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #8 of 28 Old 12-12-2019, 08:14 AM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 22,691
Mentioned: 320 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4021 Post(s)
Liked: 1892
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Well....you don't want to take PC's advice for much...they are often way off in left field. Basically,the advice you took has created a far less effective set-up. Sheesh....suggesting a 85" wide screen for a 12' viewing distance. That ratio is decidedly "Old School" thinking and does not begin to represent the possibilities inherent in 4K viewing. No...that's more akin to you having a 65" TV viewed from 8 and calling it "home Theater. ' It's a sorrowful thing to come into a situation late, but just the same, your circumstances seem entirely re-adjustable.


I would not advise going forward at this juncture with such a under-whelming design. Not when a revamped approach can be done so easily.


If you want front access, the keeping the French Cleat mounting method would serve you well. I could whip up a redesign in a heartbeat. The larger screen coming down would provide an enormously large access. Too bad you framed for a 3' depth....with complete access from the Front you could have saved another 12" depth at minimum. Ok...that's a "sour grapes" observation...I know, but it's hard not to make note of.

Lastly...if you approach this right, screen "2.0" will be wholly unnecessary. I'm hoping you can see the way clear to make the necessary changes happen. It seems pretty crazy to go to the extent you must to complete the Front facade when in actuality, the change-over is as easy as it is / can be.
xpostal likes this.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings

Last edited by MississippiMan; 12-12-2019 at 08:17 AM.
MississippiMan is online now  
post #9 of 28 Old 12-12-2019, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Well....you don't want to take PC's advice for much...they are often way off in left field. Basically,the advice you took has created a far less effective set-up. Sheesh....suggesting a 85" wide screen for a 12' viewing distance. That ratio is decidedly "Old School" thinking and does not begin to represent the possibilities inherent in 4K viewing. No...that's more akin to you having a 65" TV viewed from 8 and calling it "home Theater. ' It's a sorrowful thing to come into a situation late, but just the same, your circumstances seem entirely re-adjustable.


I would not advise going forward at this juncture with such a under-whelming design. Not when a revamped approach can be done so easily.


If you want front access, the keeping the French Cleat mounting method would serve you well. I could whip up a redesign in a heartbeat. The larger screen coming down would provide an enormously large access. Too bad you framed for a 3' depth....with complete access from the Front you could have saved another 12" depth at minimum. Ok...that's a "sour grapes" observation...I know, but it's hard not to make note of.

Lastly...if you approach this right, screen "2.0" will be wholly unnecessary. I'm hoping you can see the way clear to make the necessary changes happen. It seems pretty crazy to go to the extent you must to complete the Front facade when in actuality, the change-over is as easy as it is / can be.
A 120" Diagonal at 16:9 is 105" wide not 85". Are you thinking 4:3 or 100" screen?

Last edited by clckwrkorange; 12-12-2019 at 11:25 AM.
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #10 of 28 Old 12-12-2019, 12:58 PM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 22,691
Mentioned: 320 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4021 Post(s)
Liked: 1892
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
A 120" Diagonal at 16:9 is 105" wide not 85". Are you thinking 4:3 or 100" screen?



Oops...that is what comes from working 3 Threads at once. There was a 100"er elsewhere.


Anyway...everything else stated still is applicable. Go big....or get small.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #11 of 28 Old 12-12-2019, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Oops...that is what comes from working 3 Threads at once. There was a 100"er elsewhere.


Anyway...everything else stated still is applicable. Go big....or get small.
Or... sit closer
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #12 of 28 Old 12-12-2019, 02:37 PM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 22,691
Mentioned: 320 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4021 Post(s)
Liked: 1892
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
Or... sit closer

That is a valid premise....up to a point. However that also demands that the re-positioning of the Side & Rear Surrounds as well as Atmos adjusted to suit.


Seems 16:9 is an irrefutable Law of Nature here, so I guess C.I.H. isn't going to fly.



Gitter dun.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #13 of 28 Old 12-13-2019, 06:32 AM
AVS Forum Special Member
 
genaccmiller's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,494
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 791 Post(s)
Liked: 186
I just built my theater and a 1:1 distance of screen width to seating distance is comfortable. In my case I have a 120 inch diagonal 16:9 which is about 105 inches wide and I sit at 9 feet with a 4k projector Epson 3800 and it's comfortable. For spandex, when you call them ask for a discount. I did and they gave me a 10pct off.

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk

Step by Step Theater Build - http://imgur.com/gallery/2tpaSru
My Theater Build Youtube Channel - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCs_..._as=subscriber
My Theater Build Thread - https://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...ld-thread.html
genaccmiller is online now  
post #14 of 28 Old 12-13-2019, 07:47 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Ordered! I called and asked, but they said none were available at this time. I'm rushing to get this done for the kids by Christmas so I just went ahead.

MississippiMan - You can't be blamed for your lack of trying and did put up a great argument for 2.39:1! Right now we're more Netflix and Amazon Prime, but in the future it doesn't seem like it would be more than making some more frames and spandex. I could always store the 120" and associated side frames in the cavity behind. The more I've been thinking about it, the more I might do this. At worst I lose the $80 I just paid for the spandex as the rest was already built.

I was also thinking, since I need at least 1/8 inch of a gap behind the screen and the center supports, since I used brackets, I could put a 1/8"+ spacer under the frame bracket which would make the centers offset by 1/8"+

One question I can't seem to find the answer to searching the forum is how taut to pull the Spandex. Perhaps once I receive it, it will become more apparent. I ordered 3yrds of both the white and black, paid extra to have them come in a roll -vs- folded. Do you just pull it until it's snug? Is there a fine line between stretching and overstretching?
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #15 of 28 Old 12-13-2019, 08:21 AM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 22,691
Mentioned: 320 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4021 Post(s)
Liked: 1892
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
Ordered! I called and asked, but they said none were available at this time. I'm rushing to get this done for the kids by Christmas so I just went ahead.

MississippiMan - You can't be blamed for your lack of trying and did put up a great argument for 2.39:1! Right now we're more Netflix and Amazon Prime, but in the future it doesn't seem like it would be more than making some more frames and spandex. I could always store the 120" and associated side frames in the cavity behind. The more I've been thinking about it, the more I might do this. At worst I lose the $80 I just paid for the spandex as the rest was already built.

You'll be a Daisy when ya do!


Quote:
I was also thinking, since I need at least 1/8 inch of a gap behind the screen and the center supports, since I used brackets, I could put a 1/8"+ spacer under the frame bracket which would make the centers offset by 1/8"+
Just Gluing on some simple 1.5" Wood Lattice strips around the perimeter will get the job done. 1/8" is perhaps just a bit too short.....but then again it promises to be much better than risking any flush lay on top of centrally located lumber. You could also put the Lattice on the outside edge of the Frame so that the thinnest edge is facing outward.

Here's something. A short while back another member was faced with the same issue, and to solve it he used Lattice, but at my suggestion he made the outside edges overlap the 1x4s he used (1/2") and pulled over and around the Lattice. He then installed LED Light Strips on the Frame and had himself a Zero Edged Screen w/LED Bias Lighting. For just Nickles and a few Dimes.

Quote:
One question I can't seem to find the answer to searching the forum is how taut to pull the Spandex. Perhaps once I receive it, it will become more apparent. I ordered 3yrds of both the white and black, paid extra to have them come in a roll -vs- folded. Do you just pull it until it's snug? Is there a fine line between stretching and overstretching?
The 3 yards you ordered will just barely lay out so that the "length" edges are right at the edges of the Frame. If you start at one end and pull the spandex around the Frame (...at the center point...)and then staple to the Rear of the frame (...just pull enough to get your Staple in...) and then do likewise at the other end, the Spandex will be pulled equally and sufficiently taunt. Duplicate the same procedure on the 58" side.

Work around the frame from the 1st 4 attachment points in a "Cylinder Head" pattern....but when you get closer to each Corner, jump ahead and tug the material out and over the corner so that it forms around the corner, that helps minimize the need to Fold the material at those corners, making for a smooth looking edge. You can pull those corners a bit further out to really make the fabric "form fit".

A really important step not to overlook.....lightly sand all edges so that the material won't snag on any splinters, and especially all corners of the Frame so that you do not rip the material.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #16 of 28 Old 12-13-2019, 08:39 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
You'll be a Daisy when ya do!



Just Gluing on some simple 1.5" Wood Lattice strips around the perimeter will get the job done. 1/8" is perhaps just a bit too short.....but then again it promises to be much better than risking any flush lay on top of centrally located lumber. You could also put the Lattice on the outside edge of the Frame so that the thinnest edge is facing outward.

Here's something. A short while back another member was faced with the same issue, and to solve it he used Lattice, but at my suggestion he made the outside edges overlap the 1x4s he used (1/2") and pulled over and around the Lattice. He then installed LED Light Strips on the Frame and had himself a Zero Edged Screen w/LED Bias Lighting. For just Nickles and a few Dimes.


The 3 yards you ordered will just barely lay out so that the "length" edges are right at the edges of the Frame. If you start at one end and pull the spandex around the Frame (...at the center point...)and then staple to the Rear of the frame (...just pull enough to get your Staple in...) and then do likewise at the other end, the Spandex will be pulled equally and sufficiently taunt. Duplicate the same procedure on the 58" side.

Work around the frame from the 1st 4 attachment points in a "Cylinder Head" pattern....but when you get closer to each Corner, jump ahead and tug the material out and over the corner so that it forms around the corner, that helps minimize the need to Fold the material at those corners, making for a smooth looking edge. You can pull those corners a bit further out to really make the fabric "form fit".

A really important step not to overlook.....lightly sand all edges so that the material won't snag on any splinters, and especially all corners of the Frame so that you do not rip the material.
OK, cool. I've run some Romex from a switch for perimeter LED strips so this might be another great addition! Should I of gone for 3.5 yards? I could possibly call and change, I just ordered it before the previous post.

So a zero edge frame. I've created frames for the sides, top and bottom, would I just drywall and paint black instead, or even simpler, just directly attach velvet to the studs?
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #17 of 28 Old 12-13-2019, 09:02 AM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 22,691
Mentioned: 320 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4021 Post(s)
Liked: 1892
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
OK, cool. I've run some Romex from a switch for perimeter LED strips so this might be another great addition! Should I of gone for 3.5 yards? I could possibly call and change, I just ordered it before the previous post.

It's better to have more than less.....3.5 yards would be more than adequate. better call them to change the order though....online is not dependable.


Quote:
So a zero edge frame. I've created frames for the sides, top and bottom, would I just drywall and paint black instead, or even simpler, just directly attach velvet to the studs?

Is the Screen Frame up to stay or can it be taken down to wrap the material onto? If not, the wrapping instructions must be altered a bit....and wrapping will be somewhat more difficult...if just a bit.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #18 of 28 Old 12-13-2019, 09:07 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I called, they're checking. *Changed to 3.5yds

It's removable. I used 2 "Hangman Z-Hanger Heavy Duty" hangers for this.

Last edited by clckwrkorange; 12-13-2019 at 09:24 AM.
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #19 of 28 Old 12-13-2019, 10:31 AM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 22,691
Mentioned: 320 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4021 Post(s)
Liked: 1892
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
I called, they're checking. *Changed to 3.5yds

It's removable. I used 2 "Hangman Z-Hanger Heavy Duty" hangers for this.

Take it down and shoot a pic of the rear side. I wanna see.



Wow though....you could'a saved an appreciable amount by using Ripped Wood pieces for the French Cleats. Even incorporated it into the frame itself.


A little more sourness from the DIY Bad apple.


NEXT TIME...ask first, build later.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #20 of 28 Old 12-13-2019, 12:24 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
I hear you, man. So many firsts with this project- Atmos ceiling placement, taping and mudding, projector purchase, reflection points, sound isolation, sconces (that don't rattle). I have more excuses...
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #21 of 28 Old 12-13-2019, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
The frame is 1x4 pine with the pictured brackets, basically the biggest ones they had with those mentioned hangers.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	T.jpg
Views:	13
Size:	73.4 KB
ID:	2653476   Click image for larger version

Name:	L.jpg
Views:	13
Size:	24.0 KB
ID:	2653478  
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #22 of 28 Old 12-13-2019, 05:56 PM
DIY Granddad (w/help)
 
MississippiMan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Byhalia, Mississippi. Waaaay down in the Bottoms
Posts: 22,691
Mentioned: 320 Post(s)
Tagged: 6 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4021 Post(s)
Liked: 1892
Send a message via Skype™ to MississippiMan
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
The frame is 1x4 pine with the pictured brackets, basically the biggest ones they had with those mentioned hangers.

Round these parts we be more inclined to use a Kreg Jig w/ Pocket Hole Screws. They are on an order of magnitude a better faster system....ridiculously more sturdy and stable than Corner or T-Brackets. They bind the wood together "at the joint"...not simply try to hold a joint together. Look at the Frame image I posted several steps back. Every intersection is Pocket Screwed. No Metal anywhere to make stapling (...especially at the corners....) a more difficult task. That large Frame is so "true" that even at 129" x 54" it stands by itself, if you sight down it's length it's as straight as an arrow, and you could grab hold of the Top and hoist yourself off your feet. Well....momentarily at least.



All 1x3 Poplar


You do seem to have that frame pretty flat and true w/ Braces, so while the pieces are held in place, you could go back and make/insert Pocket Screws, and then remove those things...take 'em back...they ain't cheap...but they are decidedly "Old School". I still see 99% of the On-Line Tutorials specify the things. Shoot...I used to Miter Cut my Frames and use 'em as they are intended....NOT for Right Angled Butt Joints. And Dude....you had to use 3/4" screws....that is not much purchase.



Now is where you tell me the corners are Mitered?


Again....I'm a day late and good advice short, but anyone reading these lamentations can still learn from them.


We'll have to see what fits all those Braces give you come Material Wrapping and Stapling time.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
MississippiMan is online now  
post #23 of 28 Old 12-14-2019, 03:04 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Frame picture attached.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	1AB8B5F9-FA44-44EA-9A62-F5F89877767A_1576361020740.jpg
Views:	38
Size:	76.2 KB
ID:	2654118  
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #24 of 28 Old 12-18-2019, 06:44 PM
Member
 
xp0z3d's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 135
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
Frame picture attached.
I have built exact same frame with 1x3 poplar boards. My diagonal is around 146". I was wondering how did you end up mounting it? What did you do for LEDs? And when you stretched material over the frame, did you build any stand off to offset material from the frame?
xp0z3d is offline  
post #25 of 28 Old 12-18-2019, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by xp0z3d View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
Frame picture attached.
I have built exact same frame with 1x3 poplar boards. My diagonal is around 146". I was wondering how did you end up mounting it? What did you do for LEDs? And when you stretched material over the frame, did you build any stand off to offset material from the frame?
I just received the fabric yesterday. Hope to wrap it this weekend. In lieu of standing-off around the edges, I think I’m just going to offset the two inner supports so they sit back a little. If they twist something awful I’ll use that as my cue to build a wider screen.
xpostal likes this.
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #26 of 28 Old 12-18-2019, 07:57 PM
Member
 
xp0z3d's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 135
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 77 Post(s)
Liked: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
I just received the fabric yesterday. Hope to wrap it this weekend. In lieu of standing-off around the edges, I think I’m just going to offset the two inner supports so they sit back a little. If they twist something awful I’ll use that as my cue to build a wider screen.
Good luck!
xp0z3d is offline  
post #27 of 28 Old 12-25-2019, 12:48 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by xp0z3d View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by clckwrkorange View Post
I just received the fabric yesterday. Hope to wrap it this weekend. In lieu of standing-off around the edges, I think I’️m just going to offset the two inner supports so they sit back a little. If they twist something awful I’️ll use that as my cue to build a wider screen.
Good luck!
Finally got around to it. It wasn’t too bad and looks amazing!
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	FA303B1F-C982-4AA4-B5C6-C6B940071053_1577303269212.jpg
Views:	31
Size:	71.0 KB
ID:	2658764  
clckwrkorange is offline  
post #28 of 28 Old 12-25-2019, 12:49 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
clckwrkorange's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Vermont
Posts: 28
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked: 11
A couple more
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	F77CD089-37C1-4E08-A0E2-A50BA1CA23C7_1577303365747.jpg
Views:	31
Size:	71.0 KB
ID:	2658766   Click image for larger version

Name:	469712F6-9D2D-474D-B3AD-111B85D645CC_1577303381451.jpg
Views:	33
Size:	94.1 KB
ID:	2658768  
clckwrkorange is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply DIY Screen Section

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off