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post #1 of 10 Old 04-05-2020, 04:17 PM - Thread Starter
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DIY Frame - possibly Silver Fire

Hello,

I've been lurking on this AVSForum and specifically the DIY screen section for quite some time. Last fall, I purchased a Epson 5050UB projector without giving much thought as to how I would display the image. My research has taken me to this forum and the desire to build my own screen. I'd appreciate some advice from MississippiMan.

Some more info:
Basement location with drop ceiling with 2 possible locations

1) 173" x 87" wall with a window that would be "covered up" with the frame
2) Even longer length wall, but only 173" throw distance.

My initial thoughts would be location 1 due to possible throw distance issues.

Walls are all light color paint with a white drop ceiling. Most likely the paint color will not be modify, but installing some curtains to run along the walls is a possibility if that will help.

I played around with some different screen sizes and have recently been stuck on 135". This is due to 2 factors - 1) my projector is sitting on a table and I've been viewing from a bean bag. 2) a larger image doesn't give much room for a center speaker and the bottom of the picture will be close to the floor.

I plan to purchase the FlexiWhite for a future paint job.

Thanks,
Matt
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post #2 of 10 Old 04-05-2020, 05:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homer999999 View Post
Hello,

I've been lurking on this AVSForum and specifically the DIY screen section for quite some time. Last fall, I purchased a Epson 5050UB projector without giving much thought as to how I would display the image. My research has taken me to this forum and the desire to build my own screen. I'd appreciate some advice from MississippiMan.
Hello Matt!

Welcome to open posting here on AVS's DIY Screen Forum! And thank you for asking for me personally. I'll do my best to not make you regret that.

Quote:
Some more info:
Basement location with drop ceiling with 2 possible locations

1) 173" x 87" wall with a window that would be "covered up" with the frame
2) Even longer length wall, but only 173" throw distance.

My initial thoughts would be location 1 due to possible throw distance issues.
I like No.1 as well, but what are the dimensions of the Window's Frame and where along the wall is it located?

Quote:
Walls are all light color paint with a white drop ceiling. Most likely the paint color will not be modify, but installing some curtains to run along the walls is a possibility if that will help.
The curtains will of course help, but the 5050 is such a bright beamer, your real issues will lie with those White Ceiling Tiles. Simple solution for that though...either make (spray paint) or purchase very Dark, Flat Grey Ceiling Tile inserts so you can change the gross reflectivity of that Drop Ceiling by replacing / painting the 1st 3 Rowsof Tile out from the Screen a Very Dark Grey.(...Black is not required...)

Quote:
I played around with some different screen sizes and have recently been stuck on 135". This is due to 2 factors - 1) my projector is sitting on a table and I've been viewing from a bean bag. 2) a larger image doesn't give much room for a center speaker and the bottom of the picture will be close to the floor.
How close?

Quote:
I plan to purchase the FlexiWhite for a future paint job.

Thanks,
Matt
The only consideration you must face is building a suitable frame. That's not really difficult, nor very time consuming or expensive. But you DO want to build it right the first time around....and this is the time to start making your plans. Using 135" diagonal as a "starting point",and your Wnidow & Center Channel issues, consider doing a 140" diagonal 2.39:1 Constant Image Height screen.




If your fortunate enough to have your window's casing measure at / under 54" tall, you can take full advantage of the 5050's feature set.

  • High Lumen Output
  • Motorized Lens Shift / Zoom / Focus
  • Lens Memory
  • Ultra High Resolution via excellent performing Pixel Shifting.
  • You should have enough space under the screen to correctly place the Center Channel
  • Spraying the Flexi-White with either Silver Fire / Black Flame will bump up perceived image quality into near "OlED" status. (...not quite, but very close...)

Just shout out for advice and assistance at each step....before you proceed, and you'll nail this effort down.
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Last edited by MississippiMan; 04-05-2020 at 05:07 PM.
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post #3 of 10 Old 04-06-2020, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick reply MississippiMan!



Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

I like No.1 as well, but what are the dimensions of the Window's Frame and where along the wall is it located?

The window is 36" x 26" and sits roughly in the center of the wall - 70" from the left and 66" from the right



Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
The curtains will of course help, but the 5050 is such a bright beamer, your real issues will lie with those White Ceiling Tiles. Simple solution for that though...either make (spray paint) or purchase very Dark, Flat Grey Ceiling Tile inserts so you can change the gross reflectivity of that Drop Ceiling by replacing / painting the 1st 3 Rowsof Tile out from the Screen a Very Dark Grey.(...Black is not required...)

I'll look into this. Thanks for the advice.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
How close?

I've been sitting about 14' from the wall, but plan to get some recliners once I mount the projector from the drop ceiling. I've just been waiting to finalize the plans.



Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
The only consideration you must face is building a suitable frame. That's not really difficult, nor very time consuming or expensive. But you DO want to build it right the first time around....and this is the time to start making your plans. Using 135" diagonal as a "starting point",and your Wnidow & Center Channel issues, consider doing a 140" diagonal 2.39:1 Constant Image Height screen.

Yes, I do want to do it right the first time around. I've read you "preach" it many times. I have noticed certain movies in the 2.39:1 aspect while football is in 16:9. I haven't done enough research to understand the different mechanism to resolve these. Ideally, I'd paint the whole wall, but the window messes that up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

If your fortunate enough to have your window's casing measure at / under 54" tall, you can take full advantage of the 5050's feature set.

My window is 59" off the ground. I believe I understand your reasoning at the 2:39:1 aspect ratio to have a shorter screen height which leaves me with more room for the center speaker. If I understand that correctly, I like this idea.


One other thing I should mention is that I have some duct work I'll need to work around on the upper left corner of the screen. If I remember correctly, it sticks out about 4" from the wall. I'll get some exact measurements along with how it fits with your proposed 140" frame.


Could you please help with the throw distance? If I get the projector mounted this weekend, the better half will get off my back.


Thanks!
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post #4 of 10 Old 04-06-2020, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homer999999 View Post
Thanks for the quick reply MississippiMan!


The window is 36" x 26" and sits roughly in the center of the wall - 70" from the left and 66" from the right.
Well that's great! At last...a Window that doesn't create any more issue than just being there presents.

Quote:
I'll look into this. Thanks for the advice.

This is an excellent dark Grey. Neutral in Color....highly suppressive, and lloks immensely better than a Matte Black.





[quote]I've been sitting about 14' from the wall, but plan to get some recliners once I mount the projector from the drop ceiling. I've just been waiting to finalize the plans.

For the 140" 2.39:1 sized screen, you have a extremely wide Throw distance (14'-6" to 30'-7") so the very best Throw to go with is at the closest end of the available Throw. That would be 15'-6" to 16"-6"


Have you worked out a good method of mounting the 5050 on/through a Drop Ceiling? Need any help there?



Quote:
Yes, I do want to do it right the first time around. I've read you "preach" it many times. I have noticed certain movies in the 2.39:1 aspect while football is in 16:9. I haven't done enough research to understand the different mechanism to resolve these. Ideally, I'd paint the whole wall, but the window messes that up.

Yeah...I can get a little "preachy".....or adamant as I would prefer to say. But Hey...it's only because I know other members want and deserve the best results....they just don't always know what it take to get there,,,especially for less cash outlay. So I gotta be me.....I gotta be me......


I'll say this though...I have helped many a Member "Faux Out" a Window and create a smooth Wall. In your case you could easily enough create a Screen Wall large enough to be Non-Format Specific...just as if it was a painted Wall with no Window. Been there...done that....and it's a really cool application.


Quote:
My window is 59" off the ground. I believe I understand your reasoning at the 2:39:1 aspect ratio to have a shorter screen height which leaves me with more room for the center speaker. If I understand that correctly, I like this idea.

You've got it......... and that is still probably the best idea.


Quote:
One other thing I should mention is that I have some duct work I'll need to work around on the upper left corner of the screen. If I remember correctly, it sticks out about 4" from the wall. I'll get some exact measurements along with how it fits with your proposed 140" frame.
Yeah...OK.....I hope it isn't a Buzz Kill. Breaking that sort of news is usually in my corner....and it's never fun. I will keep fingers crossed it's just not gonna present any issue (smaller sized screen)


Quote:
Could you please help with the throw distance? If I get the projector mounted this weekend, the better half will get off my back.

Thanks!

It's all up above. Remember...there are relatively easy methods to mont a PJ on a Drop Ceiling and hide all wiring, so that all that comes down through a Tile is a 1.5" PVC Pipe into the Mount.....that is if your not using a Mount of Flea-Bay. The Chief RPA 357 or RPMA 357 mounts are Da Bomb when combined with a Peerless ACC-570 Ceiling Plate correctly positioned and mounted up inside the Drop Plenum.


If you have any chance of doing what I suggest, then do so. Yes, this weekend would be great...but next week with a absolute drop dead gorgeous Ceiling Mount will make the Wife forget about the extra wait, and be commending you on you cleverness. I won't tell...you can take all the credit.


Let me know what's up. If you need any help getting things in by Friday....who ya gonna call?
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post #5 of 10 Old 04-08-2020, 05:12 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
This is an excellent dark Grey. Neutral in Color....highly suppressive, and lloks immensely better than a Matte Black.

I'll take a look at this option. Thanks!


Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
For the 140" 2.39:1 sized screen, you have a extremely wide Throw distance (14'-6" to 30'-7") so the very best Throw to go with is at the closest end of the available Throw. That would be 15'-6" to 16"-6"

Sounds good.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Have you worked out a good method of mounting the 5050 on/through a Drop Ceiling? Need any help there?
Sure - I've never been a person not to listen to advice from others. I already have an RPA 357, but need to refresh my thoughts on what my plan was.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
I'll say this though...I have helped many a Member "Faux Out" a Window and create a smooth Wall. In your case you could easily enough create a Screen Wall large enough to be Non-Format Specific...just as if it was a painted Wall with no Window. Been there...done that....and it's a really cool application.
This has me intrigued. Could you explain more on this would work?
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post #6 of 10 Old 04-08-2020, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan
This is an excellent dark Grey. Neutral in Color....highly suppressive, and looks immensely better than a Matte Black.


Quote:
Originally Posted by homer999999 View Post
I'll take a look at this option. Thanks!
You'll be glad you did!


Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan
For the 140" 2.39:1 sized screen, you have a extremely wide Throw distance (14'-6" to 30'-7") so the very best Throw to go with is at the closest end of the available Throw. That would be 15'-6" to 16"-6"

Quote:
Originally Posted by homer999999 View Post
Sure - I've never been a person not to listen to advice from others. I already have an RPA 357, but need to refresh my thoughts on what my plan was.





Quote:
Originally Posted by homer999999 View Post
This has me intrigued. Could you explain more on this would work?

There are a few approaches to consider.
  • Furring out the Wall with 2x2s @ 12" O.C. and overlaying 3/8" Drywall (...if the 1-1/2" spacing of the 2x2s clears the Window Framing...)
  • Removing the Window Trim, cutting back the Drywall to create a inset perimeter, then overlaying 1/2" Drywall over the opening and refinishing.
Both applications would need decent Drywall finishing skills. Both would require the installation of Blinds (Slat or Cellular) to create a finished functional look on the outside.


Both do require some effort. The latter suggestion is the least labor intensive overall. However both will provide a completely smooth, Format Free surface that will compliment the Theater immensely.


Now as for me, I consider doing such things somewhat elemental, as I do them quite often. I realize that a Theater that has a Drop Ceiling isn't usually considered a "serious" Home Theater,but that does NOT have to be the case. Just a little bit of forethought and some extra effort can create a Theater-Like environment to rival other dedicated Theaters.


Where you go and how far is your decision to make. Whatever you decide you will find all the help you need right here.
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post #7 of 10 Old 04-15-2020, 03:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post

There are a few approaches to consider.
  • Furring out the Wall with 2x2s @ 12" O.C. and overlaying 3/8" Drywall (...if the 1-1/2" spacing of the 2x2s clears the Window Framing...)
  • Removing the Window Trim, cutting back the Drywall to create a inset perimeter, then overlaying 1/2" Drywall over the opening and refinishing.
Both applications would need decent Drywall finishing skills. Both would require the installation of Blinds (Slat or Cellular) to create a finished functional look on the outside.


Both do require some effort. The latter suggestion is the least labor intensive overall. However both will provide a completely smooth, Format Free surface that will compliment the Theater immensely.


Now as for me, I consider doing such things somewhat elemental, as I do them quite often. I realize that a Theater that has a Drop Ceiling isn't usually considered a "serious" Home Theater,but that does NOT have to be the case. Just a little bit of forethought and some extra effort can create a Theater-Like environment to rival other dedicated Theaters.


Where you go and how far is your decision to make. Whatever you decide you will find all the help you need right here.

Thanks for the info on how to cover up the window. At this point, I'm not interested in permanent (or mostly permanent) covering of the window. I was curious as to whether you might have some options to temporarily cover the window and then allow it to resurface easily.

I got the projector mounted this past weekend so on to the frame.

I need to take some measurements on my duct work which sticks out, but would you have concerns if my exterior frame was 1x5 or 1x6 instead of 1x4. The larger width would allow my to notch out the corner. Finally, would FlexiWhite 136" from Carl's work on the 129" frame?



Thanks!
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post #8 of 10 Old 05-23-2020, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homer999999 View Post
Thanks for the info on how to cover up the window. At this point, I'm not interested in permanent (or mostly permanent) covering of the window. I was curious as to whether you might have some options to temporarily cover the window and then allow it to resurface easily.

I got the projector mounted this past weekend so on to the frame.

I need to take some measurements on my duct work which sticks out, but would you have concerns if my exterior frame was 1x5 or 1x6 instead of 1x4. The larger width would allow my to notch out the corner. Finally, would FlexiWhite 136" from Carl's work on the 129" frame?



Thanks!
How much overlap of Carl's is needed? I wondering if I should downsize to just under Carl's 136" 2.139:1 to avoid doubling the cost for the 140" screen.



Thanks!
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post #9 of 10 Old 05-23-2020, 12:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by homer999999 View Post
How much overlap of Carl's is needed? I wondering if I should downsize to just under Carl's 136" 2.139:1 to avoid doubling the cost for the 140" screen.

Thanks!

Not a lot...4" to 6" on a side is plenty. If the sizes available for your screen size and format demands enough material in one direction but lacks it going another...or has an excessive amount....sometime it is best to drop down 4-6" in diagonal size as that can make a big difference.

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post #10 of 10 Old 05-24-2020, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Not a lot...4" to 6" on a side is plenty. If the sizes available for your screen size and format demands enough material in one direction but lacks it going another...or has an excessive amount....sometime it is best to drop down 4-6" in diagonal size as that can make a big difference.

Thanks - It looks like Carl's is out of stock right now so I need to wait to get the exact measurements and make a decision.
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