Home Theater Remodel - Input desired! - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 35 Old 05-04-2020, 11:31 AM - Thread Starter
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Home Theater Remodel - Input desired!

I have come over to this forum as I see a great deal of practical knowledge & experience. I will first spell out a little background information and then describe my current situation.



In 1996 we built our first home theater in a 'finished room over the garage. With a Pioneer 50” rear projection and five channel surround, we were way ahead of the curve! The room was roughly 22' wide (with the ceilings/walls dropping down on the sides under the eaves) and 17' deep. It worked well with 3 LazyBoy love seats, comfortable recling viewing for 6 people, plus ample floor space.

In 2000 we moved and designed our own house. We liked how the theater worked, but didn't like the long distance from the kitchen, upstairs to the other end of the house, to the theater. We decided to use a central “living room “ for normal people as a theater. The original dimensions were copied, although the depth lost about 8” to walls. At that time, a $10k projector was unwatchable, but we knew we would eventually do it. So I added conduit & power to the ceiling, ran 7 channels of speaker wire in the walls, and put a 65” HD 16x9 rear projection TV in the room. In 2007 we swapped over to a ceiling mounted Panasonic + 108” 16x9 screen, painted the room flat gray & black (yeah, I know … I've read, and will repaint AND put in new carpet along the way), and bought 'theater' recliners. 5 channels + subs = quite enjoyable.

Today, a few years after losing my bride to cancer, and having time on my hands, I had decided to upgrade again. At this stage I am going to turn the room sideways, allowing more depth for more sound channels and second row seating. Although I love the sound of my Mirage OMD 28s & C2, in a large room that is open to the rest of the downstairs, they don't produce quite the sound level I enjoy. I am almost done building 3 1099s & 4 HT10s from DIYSG. Atmos will be added in time. So … if anyone is still reading after all of that, let me get to my point!

I planned to move up in screen size (currently 120” 16x9) as my Epson 5040UB has plenty of output, and potentially 2.4:1. The proposed screen wall is the only solid wall in the room; the room has a 10' ceiling, and large openings on two sides. Although I ordered a horizontal center channel baffle for the 1099s, I am reconsidering. If I were to go with an AT screen, then running that baffle through the tablesaw before attaching is needed! So I have general AND specific questions.

General: I am curious if there are many who regret doing an AT screen. I realize that most are in a basement, mine is in the center of the house, but it is (barely!) workable. Sound & video quality are primary for me, although aesthetic concerns factor in somewhat.

Specifically, I would seek input about my particular situation and somewhat unique constraints/issues. Obviously that requires some more data, so I would need to sketch a layout to clarify the issues. At the moment, photos of the area I intend to mount the screen would be tricky, as I have other projects going on as well! I had begun doing some remodeling of the dining room, but given the 'lockdown' issues I jumped into ordering & building speakers. The living room/theater has dining room furniture jammed into that end!

I have written so much as the better discussions on this board involve laying out all considerations. I decided to start this while I have Duratex drying on my L/R speakers! So I shall now post this and get back to work ... And yes, in keeping with the title of this sub-forum, I intend to DIY the screen
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post #2 of 35 Old 05-04-2020, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by MTBDOC View Post
I have come over to this forum as I see a great deal of practical knowledge & experience. ... And yes, in keeping with the title of this sub-forum, I intend to DIY the screen

Well I'm glad. Anything less would be criminal hereabouts.
.....but I'm also willing and happy to advise you on all those other aspects of your project as well.


Acoustic Transparent Screens ae great... ut not the end all. With a 10' high screen wall, and if you actually painted the entire wall with the chosen Screen paint,you could go "Non Format Specific" and use the Lens Memory to put up ideally sized and positioned images. Better still....the screen paint would effectively mask out any Format Bars in 2.40:1


You have the width / room size to avail yourself of the 1099's/DIYSG speakers, and the height to properly place your Center Channel...so your original concept works! However you description of the current room's dimensions left out and actual measurements. Is there Attic access above? If a Room is above, is it Carpeted or Hardwood. (or Tile (Bathroom)


Lots of the various details all tie into the final end results, so choosing everything you do wisely and not impulsively can garner you both satisfaction and some pride...at have made out for less than you thought!



Who knows what the future holds, but you would certainly be able to move into AT territory if the itch caught up with you. But honestly....your situation seems far more suited for free standing / Wall Hung Speakers. What we need to do is narrow down choices and have them center around what you said is most important...Audio and Video performance.

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post #3 of 35 Old 05-05-2020, 10:16 AM - Thread Starter
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THANK YOU, for ALL that you give to this forum! I hadn't looked at any of this screen stuff in years, and am astonished at how much you give of yourself to members here. I have long said that the BEST part of the internet has been enthusiast forums. Unfortunately some are disappearing as people move to FAKEBOOK and related platforms. A forum dedicated to another of my interests (dirt bikes, specifically Husqvarna 4 strokes) largely shut down. Information is now provided on the "F-platform" and thus one must have an active account which I refuse to do (I value my own privacy and to not wish to give away my data, knowledge, etc to Zuckerberg for his enrichment).

Okay, with that out of the way, let me fill in the blanks a little further. As I noted, I used similar dimensions to my theater from 20 yrs ago. The actual measurements of this room are 16.29' by 21.79' (converted to decimal for easier scale drawing). On the back side of the future screen wall is the master bathroom, most of that wall being taken up by built in cabinets (another advantage of designing & building what you want!). The center of that cabinet is only counter height with a couple of wall sconce lights, a little rack of key hooks, etc. I do have some concern about how much vibration will be transmitted to that wall by subs, but not overly worried. Upstairs is a bedroom, bathroom, and hallway. The bath DOES have tile floor. A few years ago I purchased a few bales of roxul and OCF 703 for sound absorbers but never fab'd them. So ceiling mounted panels could be utilized as needed. Otherwise it is subfloor + carpet.

The room itself does have some challenges. The HVAC return exits on the wall to the left of the screen. I didn't note this on the original plans or I would have turned it 90deg and brought it off the entry foyer, which opens into the LR/theater. I am sketching a diagram to make the entire layout more clear.

I have a variety of subwoofers that will be put to use in this room (I have posted a good bit over on the DIY sub forum). I have built 2 Mini-martys, 1 (with a second cut and waiting to be assembled) Quad JBL Devastator, and 1 (with a second cut and waiting to be assembled) HE-15 PR sub utilizing SLAPS-M12 PRs rather than the original Stryke PRs which didn't work well. A mini HD 2x4 dsp will be used to equilize, and a FP22000q to power it (overkill, no doubt). I even still have one of the original eDesign A7-900 subs, with one bad driver... I really need to sell some stuff, but a 400# sub the size of a coffin is tricky to deal with

Let me post this, and then add the scan (on another computer) of the floorplan.
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post #4 of 35 Old 05-05-2020, 11:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is a sketch of the room. The width dimension is shown (16'3.5") but the depth (~22') is not.

The walls are shown as solid areas, there are two large openings: (1) the foyer to the left, and (2) the 4' opening to the kitchen & family room in the rear. Both of the side windows (6' x 6') have double layer honeycomb material with mylar in the middle = NO light comes through, just a tiny bit around the edge that could easily be dealt with if it were ever a problem. Beyond those windows is a large screened porch so it is always shaded. As the screen (present location, on the wall between the windows) faces the glass front door through the foyer, I have light blocking drapes that pull across the front door. I have considered putting two sets of drapes over both of the large openings, but thus far has never been necessary... even when watching football on a SUNNY Saturday afternoon. Light control is not an issue. My late wife was as serious as I was about enjoying the theater (as evidenced by her agreeing with AND helping me paint the flat gray & charcoal paint when such was considered the best approach many years ago. Although I hope to remarry (if I EVER find a physically fit, non-crazy, Christian woman ) appreciation of the theater will be a requirement. Actually, people who had heard about it thought it sounded dark, dreary, too much, etc ... BUT when invited for a movie, superbowl party, etc, we never had ANYONE that didn't like it. With some lighting around the periphery of the room, the old Panasonic did a good job giving a bright enough picture and people were comfortable moving about

Too much blathering on, I realize. This "lockdown" stuff has gotten old. I am ready for more HUMAN FACE-TO-FACE interaction!!!
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post #5 of 35 Old 05-09-2020, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Hopefully after his professional gig, our resident expert can chime in soon. Although I have many things going on and don't have to figure it all out, the horizontal vs. vertical center channel orientation is something I hope to sort out fairly soon. But, having enough to keep me busy otherwise, it just pushes me to work on the things I am less inclined to do! You see, after working on things throughout the day, night is movie time and has been my major outlet (other than wasting far too much time perusing this forum, of course!).

As an aside, I think my calendar is broken! I know it SAYS May 9, but waking up to 40 deg weather in Alabama means Feb-Mar, NOT May Then I see what y'all are having further North, and am grateful. And far too soon, we will have sticky, humid weather that makes outdoors unpleasant far too many days.
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post #6 of 35 Old 05-09-2020, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by MTBDOC View Post
Hopefully after his professional gig, our resident expert can chime in soon. Although I have many things going on and don't have to figure it all out, the horizontal vs. vertical center channel orientation is something I hope to sort out fairly soon.

Well I've spent the last 3 days just setting up a Clean Paint area in the midst of a Metal Working shop...cleaning, sweeping, hanging Plastic from I-Beams...not a easy task give all the metal shavings lurking around. And all the while feeling "Dexter-ish" to the extreme! Building a Frame...stretching/stapling Flexi...prepping Sintra. Sheesh! But finally, tomorrow (...while the Machinists are at Home...) I will attempt to paint two screens at once...a 8' x 6' 4:3 Flexi-White and a 85" x 48"16:9 sheet of 1/2 thick Sintra. Once that is done, I can start hanging the 3 Projectors and installing 8 KEF In-Ceiling Speakers. I'm really kinda flagged out on this one....it's testing my mettle. (pics below)


Getting back to sorts.....it will be a great project of yours moving forward....but with any combination of those Subs, some serious consideration must be given to acoustics! Pretty much everything else will happen as it should....Center Channel included. Come along about Tuesday I might come up for more than a gasp of air on here...until them I'm workin' and sleepin' without dreaming about bad things...and grateful I can do both when so many others can't manage to do either.
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post #7 of 35 Old 05-10-2020, 11:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Well I've spent the last 3 days just setting up a Clean Paint area in the midst of a Metal Working shop...cleaning, sweeping, hanging Plastic from I-Beams...not a easy task give all the metal shavings lurking around. And all the while feeling "Dexter-ish" to the extreme! Building a Frame...stretching/stapling Flexi...prepping Sintra. Sheesh! But finally, tomorrow (...while the Machinists are at Home...) I will attempt to paint two screens at once...a 8' x 6' 4:3 Flexi-White and a 85" x 48"16:9 sheet of 1/2 thick Sintra. Once that is done, I can start hanging the 3 Projectors and installing 8 KEF In-Ceiling Speakers. I'm really kinda flagged out on this one....it's testing my mettle. (pics below)


Getting back to sorts.....it will be a great project of yours moving forward....but with any combination of those Subs, some serious consideration must be given to acoustics! Pretty much everything else will happen as it should....Center Channel included. Come along about Tuesday I might come up for more than a gasp of air on here...until them I'm workin' and sleepin' without dreaming about bad things...and grateful I can do both when so many others can't manage to do either.
I could see you were busy, but this sounds more like TOTALLY HECTIC! Yeah, no worries, I look forward to input whenever. Acoustic management, dialing things in properly will be central. REW, minidspHD, the multi-sub software, sound absorbers, whatever. What I need is a bit of elaboration on the whats & whys of your suggestion previously made (screen on the wall rather than AT). Part of it is that I haven't really read of doing a painted wall screen. When first going with a projector 13 yrs ago, my perception was that paint was a 'budget shortcut' that some folks used. Now seeing that there are specific paints and such, I have MUCH to learn!

Take 'er easy getting things finished!
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post #8 of 35 Old 05-11-2020, 08:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Having actually taken the time to read developments of screen paint, I now 'get it' and assembled the CC speaker for horizontal mode. Now I can begin to think about this all a little bit differently. It appears there are MANY advances I haven't considered (focusing far more on the audio than video side of things). I eagerly but patiently await the opportunity to sit at the feet of our resident master to learn all that I can. I am not good at 'halfway' approaches and as I am going to fully remodel the room (paint, carpet, etc) eventually, I am delighted that I can also learn more about various approaches.

Reading a 'point blank' statement that an AT screen cannot BEGIN to approach the image quality available from a good mix & application of paint is a revelation to me. Again, I haven't even looked into such things in a great many years! SIlver Fire looks to be a rather impressive mixture, so this should be fun! Although I am not a fan of drywall work, I've been remodeling my dining room as well and have done a bit of repair of drywall ... and then looking CAREFULLY I can see how much it could benefit from sanding & skim coating. Once I committed to buying a vacuum drywall sanding attachment and went to work, the current thought of doing this for my theater screen is not intimidating. Now, buying & learning to use a sprayer ... different story as I have rolled/brushed everything I've done before.

Fun, fun, fun!
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post #9 of 35 Old 05-11-2020, 05:38 PM
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Let me make something clear.....


While there are no Acoustic Screens that exhibit the properties of Silver Fire / Black Flame, or for that matter even aspire to using shades of Grey for Contrast Enhancement (...weaves and perforations stand out...) there are a few ...very few Mfg. AT Screens that have managed to make their surfaces extremely smooth. And while keeping audio transfer extremely close to actual sonic transparency.


But they are also very expensive....so without the additional visual benefits, they still remain the choice of those who have ultra high Native Contrast projectors being used in dedicated, wholly light controlled environments. A primary emphasis of course on hiding Speakers ...that would wind up being invisible in total darkness anyway. That secondary emphasis being cosmetic appeal when the lights are up.



The Hot News Flash.......In any room where speaker positioning can also allow for the use of the desired size / format of a solid screen surface....then absolutely....advanced Screen paint can win hands down.



But the real clincher is this....a excellent Painted Screen can make a $1500-$2000.00 PJ look as good (...or better...) than a $7000.00 PJ using a Matte White. Cooler still.....it's breathtaking what happens when a PJ like a JVC x790r or a NX7 splashes light on a Black Flame. It just keeps getting better and better....never worse.


It's all part & parcel of why I've enjoyed what I've been doing since 2001. It's always a uplifting experience to personally see looks of amazement....or read about a DIY'er's "OMG" moments.



I kinda count on 'em actually.
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post #10 of 35 Old 05-14-2020, 08:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Laying down some Duratex on the CC and the surround HT10s today, FINALLY after the stuff I really hate messing with (filler/bondo + sanding ... and STILL detecting a little bit of a seam in places ... rinse & repeat).

Moving forward on this, I discovered that the recommended sprayer (Earlex 2901) is out of production, and when I went back to Amazon the $90 went to $130 to 'none available' in a couple of hours. The used one at the warehouse disappeared. So I decided I would take a runner on this Tacklife SGP-17AC sprayer. It has 3 different metal nozzle sizes and 2 different brass needles including a 1.0mm combo. It seems to have worked well for some, and in Australia I noted a very similar product that hadj good reviews. I confess I like the gray color of the Aussie version a bit better. The ability to add pain by pouring it in from the top rather than removing the cup is cool. Even includes a cleaning kit. Hard to beat for $91 if it does a decent job. I have enough outdoor painting to do that I can make good use of a sprayer but never had quite "jumped in" before.

I think I will get some experience using the sprayer before attempting the screen. I want to REALLY have a sense of what very light 'dusting' is like.

I do look forward to further input from our fearless leader (when he recovers from his current project!) as to other ideas with the room. Painting the walls & ceiling can be done, and as I intend to replace carpet in the next few months, it makes painting a bit less of a bother! The room becomes more of a 'blank slate' as far as where to place the equipment rack, etc. Guess a ceiling fan may have to go (or get a shorter downrod) as the pair straddle the projector in current 'wide' configuration, but would be sitting directly in front & behind the PJ when I reorient the room.

All of which tells me i REALLY need to get some work done to get the dining room furniture OUT OF THERE!
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post #11 of 35 Old 05-17-2020, 11:16 AM - Thread Starter
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As I have been reading the recent postings, I wanted to say "thank you" to MM for the very detailed painting directions just posted in another thread. Most helpful, I am printing out a copy for my 'HT' file.


Moving forward, I need some further input in sorting out which 'blend' of paint might be best for my projector and room/situation. Also, what sort of image size should my 5040UB be capable of and what would be the optimal throw distance Because I am completely redoing this theater, I want to take all factors possible into account. Using a 16+ foot wide, 10' tall wall does allow whatever image size would work best. I am definitely a fan of being more 'overwhelmed' and appreciate the effect of a more full visual field. Image size will also dictate speaker layout surrounding the screen, for example subs paired in the front corners vs. a mini-marty sideways on either side of the 1099 center channel, with the L/R speakers further outside. This relates to screen width, to make sure the L/R speakers aren't impinging on the image area.


Thanks for input, and I will continue following other threads that are teaching me a lot!


BTW, I got the little cyclone paint mixer from Amazon yesterday. Interesting, I've never seen one of this style before. I like it!
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post #12 of 35 Old 05-17-2020, 01:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MTBDOC View Post
As I have been reading the recent postings, I wanted to say "thank you" to MM for the very detailed painting directions just posted in another thread. Most helpful, I am printing out a copy for my 'HT' file.

Thank you...........I'm glad to help,especially if it leads to more successfully completedprojects.



Quote:
Moving forward, I need some further input in sorting out which 'blend' of paint might be best for my projector and room/situation. Also, what sort of image size should my 5040UB be capable of and what would be the optimal throw distance Because I am completely redoing this theater, I want to take all factors possible into account. Using a 16+ foot wide, 10' tall wall does allow whatever image size would work best. I am definitely a fan of being more 'overwhelmed' and appreciate the effect of a more full visual field. Image size will also dictate speaker layout surrounding the screen, for example subs paired in the front corners vs. a mini-marty sideways on either side of the 1099 center channel, with the L/R speakers further outside. This relates to screen width, to make sure the L/R speakers aren't impinging on the image area.

Taking all that in, look for my response later this evening.



Quote:
Thanks for input, and I will continue following other threads that are teaching me a lot!


BTW, I got the little cyclone paint mixer from Amazon yesterday. Interesting, I've never seen one of this style before. I like it!

Yep....it's the best.

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post #13 of 35 Old 05-19-2020, 12:04 PM
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I remember seeing this thread and I thought I had responded, but I guess not. MMan is just too fast and has tons of good advice anyways. I went through the same dilemma on horizontal vs vertical center for the 1099s as well, and I decided on the horizontal. The vertical is technically better, but as long as you aren’t really far off axis, I doubt you could tell a difference. But as you are seeing, the biggest benefit is flexibility for different setups.

It looks like you are going painted screen, but if you do go with AT, be aware that the width of the horizontal 1099 makes the screen frame design a bit more challenging since your vertical braces are so far apart. I overbraced the snot out of mine to compensate.

As far as your screen size and placement, the higher gain from painted screens opens up your options a lot. My guess is you will be more limited by your viewing angles than what the projector can do. The lower gain AT screens requires a more delicate balance between image brightness (closer projector) and image size (further projector). Did you have an idea approximately how big you want to go? How far away is your seating?
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post #14 of 35 Old 05-19-2020, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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As the dimensions of the room are roughly 16.3' x 22', I have great flexibility of placement. I like a LARGE image, so that is a determining factor. 120" at present, I would likely shoot for around 150" or so, and I like the ability to optimize both 16x9 as well as 2.4:1.


I have temporarily put the CC on my old stand (built for my Audax CC) and it puts the speaker perfectly oriented towards the viewer's head (the top of the speaker appears as a line). With a minimarty flanking on each side (40") it pushes the L/R speakers a bit wider than Dolby specs. I haven't watched/listened enough yet to decide if it is a real issue or not. But the other option would be to push the subs out to the room corners and bring the L/R closer... as long as they don't fall into the image.


Experimentation ... and figuring out viewing distance/location, projector location, etc are things to determine going forward. I am quite pleased with the 1099s and am sold on the image capabilities of well designed & properly applied paint.
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post #15 of 35 Old 05-20-2020, 11:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Thank you...........I'm glad to help,especially if it leads to more successfully completedprojects.






Taking all that in, look for my response later this evening.






Yep....it's the best.

Still patiently await your input . I realize you have a life outside of this board and get tugged in many directions! I've moved some stuff out of the end of the room, so I can get an "up close & personal" examination of the wall for flatness & smoothness. Even though I likely won't be ready to paint for a few weeks, I want to get as much prep work done and other plans/materials assembled so that when I can repaint the entire room, I can blast off!
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post #16 of 35 Old 05-20-2020, 01:52 PM
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The 5040 is rated for 2500 lumens, but has been measured around 3500 in dynamic mode. A 150” diagonal 16:9 screen is about 130.75” wide x 73.5” tall, and using 2500 lumens and a 0.7 screen gain gives about 26 FL. This is very conservative and would be plenty of light for all but HDR (which many people don’t like on the 5040 anyways). This would be at the widest angle/shortest throw of about 14’-8.5”. You could place it almost 30’ back at the widest point, but you lose ~33% lumens doing that, so I wouldn’t recommend it.

Keeping the same width (and brightness) would give you a 143” diagonal for 2.39:1. If you want a bigger image, then 2.39 would be your limiting case. Constant image height would make a 2.39:1 about 175.75” wide with a 190” diagonal, but would require 19’-9” of throw and only give 15 FL, which may not be enough. That’s a huge screen though, and some of the paint mixes may have higher gain than 0.7 ( I can’t help with paint).

I still think you will mostly be limited by how big you want your 2.39 screen. Start with a 1:1 of screen width to seating distance and see how big it is. I don’t know that you would want to go much bigger than that.
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post #17 of 35 Old 05-20-2020, 05:20 PM
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Still patiently await your input . I realize you have a life outside of this board and get tugged in many directions! I've moved some stuff out of the end of the room, so I can get an "up close & personal" examination of the wall for flatness & smoothness. Even though I likely won't be ready to paint for a few weeks, I want to get as much prep work done and other plans/materials assembled so that when I can repaint the entire room, I can blast off!

Sorry....not my intent to neglect. Out and about with only a phone to dictate to, and that sucks for more than a paragraph or two.



Response coming to a Forum near you soon!



Really!

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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Sorry....not my intent to neglect. Out and about with only a phone to dictate to, and that sucks for more than a paragraph or two.



Response coming to a Forum near you soon!



Really!

No worries, just wanted to make sure this didn't fall off of the radar. Your input is highly desired, but no IMMEDIATE need. You already moved me towards painting the wall so I built the 1099 center channel in horizontal mode, just received my Tacklife HVLP sprayer. Given that it comes with a 1mm nozzle & needle, it should do the trick. It looks to be an impressive bargain for $90. Obviously I will know more when I actually put it to use!


Let me add this: last night I cranked up a newly purchased copy of Dire Straits 'Brothers in Arms', this time as SACD. 5 channel + capable subs ... UNBELIEVABLE! I am now sold on the 1099s & HT-10s for music as well as movies. The sound was captivating! I have watched a couple of bluray concert vids the previous two nights, but threw this on last night when I was fixing dinner. I had to go back and listen to most of it sitting in the optimal seat. Absolutely magical!
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As the dimensions of the room are roughly 16.3' x 22', I have great flexibility of placement. I like a LARGE image, so that is a determining factor. 120" at present, I would likely shoot for around 150" or so, and I like the ability to optimize both 16x9 as well as 2.4:1.

Painting a non-formatted Screen Wall basically lets you decide whatever size, whatever format, wherever you want to place the bottom of the screen..............determining what projector and it's placement location comes next, based upon the maximum size of 150" diagonal @ 2.39:1.Any set up that will accommodate the width needed for a given sized 2.39:1 will allow all the decision-making leeway you'll need in regard to the 16:9


Quote:
I have temporarily put the CC on my old stand (built for my Audax CC) and it puts the speaker perfectly oriented towards the viewer's head (the top of the speaker appears as a line). With a mini-marty flanking on each side (40") it pushes the L/R speakers a bit wider than Dolby specs. I haven't watched/listened enough yet to decide if it is a real issue or not. But the other option would be to push the subs out to the room corners and bring the L/R closer... as long as they don't fall into the image.

Yeah but.......how's about a measurement from the Floor to the top of the CC? That would be helpful. Also (...I may be asking repetitiously...) Ceiling height....supposed Seating distance, and maximum allowable width between the R&L Speakers. Are you considering stacking the HT-10s?



Don't get fixated on the "Dolby Specs". They are essentially guidelines based on specific rooms, so there is room to adjust accordingly to your specific application.


Quote:
Experimentation ... and figuring out viewing distance/location, projector location, etc are things to determine going forward. I am quite pleased with the 1099s and am sold on the image capabilities of well designed & properly applied paint.

Well Gee Whiz.....with the info asked for above supplied, (...and some exact room measurements / opening locations...) it will take me less than 5 minutes to give you an optimum choice


Quote:
Originally Posted by MTBDOC View Post
No worries, just wanted to make sure this didn't fall off of the radar. Your input is highly desired, but no IMMEDIATE need. You already moved me towards painting the wall so I built the 1099 center channel in horizontal mode, just received my Tacklife HVLP sprayer. Given that it comes with a 1mm nozzle & needle, it should do the trick. It looks to be an impressive bargain for $90. Obviously I will know more when I actually put it to use!
It will be tough on us both if you must necessarily procrastinate. One such as myself, who knows well what the future holds in store for you, can hardly brook any delay.



Quote:
Let me add this: last night I cranked up a newly purchased copy of Dire Straits 'Brothers in Arms', this time as SACD. 5 channel + capable subs ... UNBELIEVABLE! I am now sold on the 1099s & HT-10s for music as well as movies. The sound was captivating! I have watched a couple of bluray concert vids the previous two nights, but threw this on last night when I was fixing dinner. I had to go back and listen to most of it sitting in the optimal seat. Absolutely magical!

It will be wonderful for you to realize an image that will be worthy of your audio. Ab-sew-lootlee.


Now besides what I asked for and what you have already mentioned..........:
  • Room Colors...A very dark Grey Ceiling is all that is needed....and if the Ceiling is currently Black, that will serve as a good primer for a dark grey...which works just as well but looks soooooo much better when the lights go up. I'm a big Fan of painting Walls a very Deep saturated Dark Red, and then complimenting the Ceiling by painting all the Trim the same shade of Grey only in a Oil Based Eggshell Enamel ---Classy! ---
  • I can suggest some excellent Speakers for Atmos you could slide into easily AND extremely affordable. My goodness...I would NOT haul up short on installing at least 2 Atmos.
  • Amplification: I have it on good account that very soon there will be some 9 Channel Denon 4500 receivers available...New, not refurb...for around $999.00

If there is anything else you want to address (Acoustic Panel Contruction...????) just post again.


I can address a few other things for you over the next few days because I'll be taking a break over this 3-day Holiday Weekend, and after Tuesday I will have wound down all the work that piled on me after the recent relaxing of Covig-19 dictates, and I'm gonna just kick back and enjoy life for a month or2...or3. I will turn 67 in mid-August, and one of my favorite Birthday presents to my self each year is a 8-10 day hideaway on Maui out toward Hana. Ain't no nuthin' gonna happen once I get there...'cept eatin' a whole lot of Fish!

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Originally Posted by MississippiMan View Post
Painting a non-formatted Screen Wall basically lets you decide whatever size, whatever format, wherever you want to place the bottom of the screen..............determining what projector and it's placement location comes next, based upon the maximum size of 150" diagonal @ 2.39:1.Any set up that will accommodate the width needed for a given sized 2.39:1 will allow all the decision-making leeway you'll need in regard to the 16:9

Okay, that already changes things a little. I was just now laying out a 144" wide, 60" high area. Weather got stormy so I quickly ran to Lowes & bought some fresh mud. I dismantled and moved the dining room furniture away from the screen wall area (the foyer is ... uh, CHALLENGING to navigate). I have a 6' level & another 6' straightedge, there are areas that are 1/8-3/16 low, so besides a skim coat there is a bit more work to do. It is just fidgity ...


What is the basis of the screen limitation? Output from the 5040? A quick calc shows my proposed numbers are 156" diagonal, so it really isn't so much difference. So a 58 vertical height (as opposed to 60) gets me in the proximity. No worries, but I am curious about the 150 limit (I always want to UNDERSTAND stuff!)



Quote:
Yeah but.......how's about a measurement from the Floor to the top of the CC? That would be helpful. Also (...I may be asking repetitiously...) Ceiling height....supposed Seating distance, and maximum allowable width between the R&L Speakers. Are you considering stacking the HT-10s?
The HT-10s will be the 4 surround channels. At present (using the stand I built years ago) the top of the CC is 29" on the front edge, 27.5" as it backs to the screen... which puts it perfectly aligned. I am quite comfortable building a new stand as needed.


Ceiling is 10' so there is plenty of flexibility. As the wall is just over 16' wide, as I played around with it, they could be just outside of an image 144" wide and still have enough room from the side wall. And, of course, that's also why God gives us acoustical absorbers!



Seating distance is entirely discretionary. I'm about 10-11 feet screen-to-eyeball at present depending on recline, etc.


Quote:
Don't get fixated on the "Dolby Specs". They are essentially guidelines based on specific rooms, so there is room to adjust accordingly to your specific application.
Yep, and toe-in adjustment helps with optimization.


Quote:
Well Gee Whiz.....with the info asked for above supplied, (...and some exact room measurements / opening locations...) it will take me less than 5 minutes to give you an optimum choice
I can update my initial drawing to make it a little bit more clear, and throw in a few pictures as well. With the reorientation of the room, there will be a large opening to the left of the seating area (into the entrance foyer... as I said when I designed the house I used the location of the typical 'formal living room' for the theater), there are two windows with honeycomb blinds (mylar lined ... they are BLACKOUT!) to the right, and to the rear is another opening that goes to the kitchen/family room space.


Quote:
It will be tough on us both if you must necessarily procrastinate. One such as myself, who knows well what the future holds in store for you, can hardly brook any delay.
As you likely have gathered, I am moving forward, my concern about the dining room furniture was made easier when I did more dismantling of things (doors off china cabinet, huge amount of glass and HEAVY ... so I could move it myself) and even taking the legs off the table (seats 8 comfortably with both leaves in) and I moved it out as well.


Quote:
It will be wonderful for you to realize an image that will be worthy of your audio. Ab-sew-lootlee.

Now besides what I asked for and what you have already mentioned..........:
  • Room Colors...A very dark Grey Ceiling is all that is needed....and if the Ceiling is currently Black, that will serve as a good primer for a dark grey...which works just as well but looks soooooo much better when the lights go up. I'm a big Fan of painting Walls a very Deep saturated Dark Red, and then complimenting the Ceiling by painting all the Trim the same shade of Grey only in a Oil Based Eggshell Enamel ---Classy! ---
  • I can suggest some excellent Speakers for Atmos you could slide into easily AND extremely affordable. My goodness...I would NOT haul up short on installing at least 2 Atmos.
  • Amplification: I have it on good account that very soon there will be some 9 Channel Denon 4500 receivers available...New, not refurb...for around $999.00
I will do 4 ceiling mounted atmos, never fear. I have planned 11 channels. Both the 4500 & 3600 process 11. I already have a 200x3 amp for LCR that I have been using for 15 yrs... nice old Acurus that never gets shut off. Caps are still good, although I need to tweek the bias voltage a little, actually I intend to replace the trim pots (a common upgrade on these). So that allows the receiver to do the other channels just fine. Once they start shipping again, I am inclined to go with the 3600 ... although they are going for full retail now, once they are shipping again and the economic crash gets serious, prices will come further down.


For atmos I am considering several different possibilities. I don't think that the expense of the DIYSG Volts are needed, there just isn't that much info in those. A decent set of in-ceiling speakers, WITH PROPER ORIENTATION towards the seating area, will do fine.


Quote:
If there is anything else you want to address (Acoustic Panel Contruction...????) just post again.
Absolutely! As noted, I have several 'bales' of material I bought years ago ... I get a little repetitive when talking of my situation, but ... Apr 27, 2011 was Tornado Day as you well remember. Although AL got the brunt of it, MS, TN, & GA also had some. 6 weeks later my wife was diagnosed with cancer on a routine evaluation ...


... and the last 9 yrs have been a tangled mess. 5.5 yrs since her death and I still am not sure which side is up some days! Projects have been keeping me sane at times. I did a large (10kw) solar design & install at my place in the mountains, a massive undertaking that gave me focus.



Last fall I revisited this forum, actually looking at possibilities for replacement drivers for my 17 yr old A7-900 sub ... and have fallen back into this insanity since It's weird ordering 7 speakers and building them without ever hearing them, but after watching enough of Ryan's videos I knew HE KNEW what he was doing. All the positive reports of the 1099s are justified. For $400ea in parts, they are exceptional, ESPECIALLY for those of us who tend to like MORE volume. It was a revelation listening to the SACD of Dire Straits the other night. No fatigue at high levels (I need to actually measure and see how loud I was listening!) and such clarity & dynamics ... wow. I have now watched Alien, Aliens, & Alien3 the past 3 nights as well. Pleased, 'nuf said!


Quote:
I can address a few other things for you over the next few days because I'll be taking a break over this 3-day Holiday Weekend, and after Tuesday I will have wound down all the work that piled on me after the recent relaxing of Covig-19 dictates, and I'm gonna just kick back and enjoy life for a month or2...or3. I will turn 67 in mid-August, and one of my favorite Birthday presents to my self each year is a 8-10 day hideaway on Maui out toward Hana. Ain't no nuthin' gonna happen once I get there...'cept eatin' a whole lot of Fish!
You have 4 yrs on me ... where DID the time go?! I have an appt to see a specialist for my arthritic ankle. I know it needs a fusion, something I cannot figure out how I will handle on my own (8-12 weeks non-weight bearing post-op) but I decided I might as well mess around with the screen wall while I am able.


Q: when redoing the wall for screen, how flat should I shoot for. Obviously I hope to get it "perfectly" whatever that means, and that's on the agenda, but I was wondering what sort of tolerance we are looking for. I love having the 6' level & 6' straightedge, they really help with things like this.


Okay, time to walk the dog as it sounds like the storm has let up...
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post #21 of 35 Old 05-22-2020, 06:24 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a pic of the screen wall. The tape is the 'border' for a 144" wide screen, just over 2' either side. The ceiling fan will likely interfere with the projected image, but we shall see. A shorter down rod will work, but the two fans were set up flanking the PJ area for the room operating in 'wide' mode.



The old eDesign A7-900 is sitting in the corner, with the 1099 visible in the edge... and of course the bottom side of the DR table!


More pics & specs tomorrow!
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Given that this paint is a very flat paint, I am not planning to prime BEFORE hitting it with mud, maybe a very light bit of sanding. I will plan to prime after doing all of the leveling work, but I would appreciate any input as my experience has been with repaired areas (prime drywall first) and my dining room, where I stripped all of the wallpaper and primed (in fact, it has been in that state for ... a while. I'll leave it at that!).



The wall looks fine until I put the straightedge against it. I'm sure it is low in the middle of sheets & between studs. It really isn't bad, but as long as I have to put mud on it, I'll do the best I can.
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Arrgghhh ... hit a wrong key & message disappeared. Oh well, starting again:


Earth to @MississippiMan , come in please!


Or, perhaps 'Sir, please step AWAY from the beer & BBQ for a moment!' When you get a minute, I would appreciate some input based on the info I provided in the posts above. I think I am going to run to Lowes for some 'hot mud' rather than the 'lite premix mud' I have used before. I like the idea of this stuff setting up more quickly. There is a big enough area to build up, and the better bonding will help as well.
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One more quick addition: here is a temp picture of unfinished subs (ugly but operational!) showing the LCR speakers + the 2 mini-martys turned sideways. The screen is 120" 16x9, the width from the edges of the subs across the center (the distance which the L/R speakers would sit outside of, did I not have other stuff in the way at the moment) is 9' 10" (118") so that gives some sense of the size issues.


EDIT: it also shows the wall that will be to the RIGHT of the seating area once the room is reoriented. Given it is broad daylight outside, the blinds can be seen as incredibly effective. I have never regretted the expense of custom honeycomb blinds WITH mylar inside. They block EVERYTHING, and on cold winter days, it is astonishing how much insulation they provide as well.

Okay, onward to Lowes! I just recognized that the screen wall is going to be MORE challenging. Besides the side-side highs & lows, there is a bit of up-down variation as well. I think I may put a temp board across the bottom of the screen area, rather than starting 2+' below at the floor... which will serve as a rest for the straightedge to get me some better reference points. Everything is harder by myself (speaking as a man who had an incredible helpmate as a wife!).
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Originally Posted by MTBDOC View Post
Given that this paint is a very flat paint, I am not planning to prime BEFORE hitting it with mud, maybe a very light bit of sanding. I will plan to prime after doing all of the leveling work, but I would appreciate any input as my experience has been with repaired areas (prime drywall first) and my dining room, where I stripped all of the wallpaper and primed (in fact, it has been in that state for ... a while. I'll leave it at that!).
The wall looks fine until I put the straightedge against it. I'm sure it is low in the middle of sheets & between studs. It really isn't bad, but as long as I have to put mud on it, I'll do the best I can.

Very small variations that show 1/8" gap between a Straight edge across a 16" O.C. area are not going to be visible from any viewing orientation that from the extreme side...your ear against the Screen Wall. 1/4"? Yeah...that's getting bad enough to warrant going with another route.


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Originally Posted by MTBDOC View Post
Arrgghhh ... hit a wrong key & message disappeared. Oh well, starting again:

Earth to @MississippiMan , come in please!

Or, perhaps 'Sir, please step AWAY from the beer & BBQ for a moment!'

Say's to the Wife, "Hold my Beer.........", and she dumps it into the sink. NOT they type of sacrifices on Memorial Day I'm thinking of.......



Quote:
When you get a minute, I would appreciate some input based on the info I provided in the posts above. I think I am going to run to Lowes for some 'hot mud' rather than the 'lite premix mud' I have used before. I like the idea of this stuff setting up more quickly. There is a big enough area to build up, and the better bonding will help as well.

Oh Hell No.......DO NOT use Quick Set Mud to level out depressions. It's rapid drying can cause cracking as it shrinks, when it is applied too thickly, and because it does dry harder it does not sand down well at the edges (Feathering). Dry Wall Techs who use it are very sure to scrape it down to almost nothing along the edges to make such sanding easier and more likely to blend.


When correcting such deviations in Wall surface, nothing is more assured and better than to TAKE IT SLOWLY and gradually build up an area using Lightweight Compound.


Quote:
Originally Posted by MTBDOC View Post
One more quick addition: here is a temp picture of unfinished subs (ugly but operational!) showing the LCR speakers + the 2 mini-martys turned sideways. The screen is 120" 16x9, the width from the edges of the subs across the center (the distance which the L/R speakers would sit outside of, did I not have other stuff in the way at the moment) is 9' 10" (118") so that gives some sense of the size issues.

EDIT: it also shows the wall that will be to the RIGHT of the seating area once the room is reoriented. Given it is broad daylight outside, the blinds can be seen as incredibly effective. I have never regretted the expense of custom honeycomb blinds WITH mylar inside. They block EVERYTHING, and on cold winter days, it is astonishing how much insulation they provide as well.

Okay, onward to Lowes! I just recognized that the screen wall is going to be MORE challenging. Besides the side-side highs & lows, there is a bit of up-down variation as well. I think I may put a temp board across the bottom of the screen area, rather than starting 2+' below at the floor... which will serve as a rest for the straightedge to get me some better reference points. Everything is harder by myself (speaking as a man who had an incredible helpmate as a wife!).

You keep making things seem more crazed with each post! I've dealt with some pretty wavy walls....and it takes focusing on each specific area...one at a time. There are / is a trick that involves using a good straight edge as a Loooong scraper....a 18" Metal Level is good for this step. A 4'r is a bit unwieldy unless absolutely required because the "Dip" spans two 16" O.C. plenums....and if it spans 3 - 16" O.C. areas and is less that 1/8"...it ain't a'gonna show enough to matter!



First thing you must do is pick a location on the Wall and use the Straight edge to find the exact location at each side the Wall dips inward between a given 1 or two 16" O.C. areas and using a pencil, mark those "exact" places.


Move the Straight edge up & down to determine how Tall that area is.


Apply a medium heavy coat of Mud to the depression...but stay at least 2" away from the Pencil marks. Taking the Straight edge's most sharpest edge, and scrape down the wall "Once" and then leave it alone to dry. Move to the next location...and repeat.


These areas MUST be completely dry...and then sanded smooth...especially the edges. Take the Straight edge again and repeat the "sliding scraper" routine to deterime where you need more Mud and repeat the previous instructions.


I hope my stint with Ribs and Beer (...which went on well after dark yesterday...) didn't allow you to go nuts with Quick Set. That stuff is good for use when speed is essential and the user's skill set and the size of the area involved allows for such. Anything else is much worse than problematical...it's hell waiting to happen....and sanding down ridges and edges can easily mean sanding the very edges down into the Drywall paper. Then...you have a whole 'nother issue to correct.


Damn....Beer has gotten hot.

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First: I do believe it is within the rules of this forum to keep a cold beer in hand when reading & posting


Next: your cautions about hot mud are all things that I am aware of, I was simply thinking of time and areas that need a decent bit of build up. My plan was to use that in the 'deepest' parts and use regular lightweight mud for the final layer(s). But, I decided I wasn't going to get it done in a day anyway, so I have begun with the regular stuff. I ended up working on a couple of other things, and washed the wall down thoroughly with my EVIL old TSP. It is funny, much like refrigerants, someone gets on a kick about the environmental consequences of A & then requires move to B which generally costs more, is less effective, and brings its own individual environmental impact! The scam of REQUIRING corn => ethanol => gasoline substitute is one of the worst! Okay, with the rant over, TSP is really great for stuff like this.


I began with mud today. As I noted there is a little bit of top-to-bottom slope, so I am trying to figure out how best to deal with it. The key is creating a flat plane out of the wall. It doesn't have to be PERFECTLY plumb, the projector can easily accommodate that. But to get it all in one plane does require more than just looking at 16" segments as variance between studs certainly exists that's why the 6' level and 6' straightedge are called into use! I already have identified an area where the wall dips a little across multiple segments/studs.. Anyway, I will gradually get this whipped into shape.

I would like clarification about what I asked before: you stated that 150" was the max size I would want to go, and I want to understand the basis for that. Once I figure out the outer limits of the screen area, it will be easier to hone in on the specific area that needs to be in a flat plane. When you get a chance, have a look back at the post of 5/22 @ 8:13 and we can follow up some of your earlier questions. This entire room will ultimately be 'done over' including some new carpet. For now, the screen & overall design is my focus.


Enjoy the remainder of this holiday weekend!
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There is nothing limiting you to 150”, you had just said you were originally looking at 150” as a target size, but I think you meant that for 16:9. 144” wide (your current choice) is about 156” diagonal for 2.39 and that’s exactly what I have so I know it works fine. You can certainly go a decent amount bigger than that, but I wouldn’t recommend it for your seating distance. I think I’m around 13’ away and I wouldn’t want to sit any closer or any movie with motion would make me nauseous.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MDJones View Post
There is nothing limiting you to 150”, you had just said you were originally looking at 150” as a target size, but I think you meant that for 16:9. 144” wide (your current choice) is about 156” diagonal for 2.39 and that’s exactly what I have so I know it works fine. You can certainly go a decent amount bigger than that, but I wouldn’t recommend it for your seating distance. I think I’m around 13’ away and I wouldn’t want to sit any closer or any movie with motion would make me nauseous.

Thanks, you are absolutely correct. I had previously thrown out a number, but when I read his reply somehow I was seeing it as a limit that he had imposed! I appreciate your inpute...


Yesterday was busy so I didn't get to mess with it. I still have a section across 4' or so side-to-side where there is a consistent dip slightly more than 1/8" ... So that area will need a bit more building up. The good news is that as I have walked a vertical 6' level across a stringer nailed along the wall 26" above the floor although the wall is slightly out of plumb, it is consistent from side to side. So there is no need to build up the top of the wall. Projector setup will easily accommodate that with the tiniest hint of tilt in the mount itself. In the past I always seek to get everything as square as possible rather than using lens shift & keystone correction.



Screen size & distance has always been a peculiar topic. Back in the old days, screen resolution required a minimum distance with large screens. What I found nuts was in the early days of good, moderate priced 1080 projectors they were using the same model. So WHY put up a larger screen ONLY to move further away?! People have significant variation in how they do with motion issues, image size, etc. I have always tilted towards the "closer/larger" end of the spectrum, and have rarely had a guest that wanted to be a bit further back. But for the most part, people generally LOVE the large image. This is why I HATED when they switched to tiny screen multiplexes. What go to the theater to watch a TV?


Given the forced waiting (basically for these heavier layers of mud, I only do one coat/day. Then fully dry & sand. Skim coats are different, but I am not there yet. Well, actually I always start smearing a the little bit of leftover mud in other places and scraping it down before washing off the tools. It allows even more obsessive smoothness in those areas
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post #29 of 35 Old 05-29-2020, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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I hadn't heard back and see you are posting so perhaps you missed this post from a few days ago. We did get distracted in discussing various approaches to drywall mud. It is coming into form, slowly but sure. SO, to get back to my other info, I will paste this, with your questions in Italics and my responses following in normal font:

Quote:
Yeah but.......how's about a measurement from the Floor to the top of the CC? That would be helpful. Also (...I may be asking repetitiously...) Ceiling height....supposed Seating distance, and maximum allowable width between the R&L Speakers. Are you considering stacking the HT-10s?

The HT-10s will be the 4 surround channels. At present (using the stand I built years ago) the top of the CC is 29" on the front edge, 27.5" as it backs to the screen... which puts it perfectly aligned. I am quite comfortable building a new stand as needed.


Ceiling is 10' so there is plenty of flexibility. As the wall is just over 16' wide, as I played around with it, they could be just outside of an image 144" wide and still have enough room from the side wall. And, of course, that's also why God gives us acoustical absorbers!



Seating distance is entirely discretionary. I'm about 10-11 feet screen-to-eyeball at present depending on recline, etc.


Quote:
Don't get fixated on the "Dolby Specs". They are essentially guidelines based on specific rooms, so there is room to adjust accordingly to your specific application.

Yep, and toe-in adjustment helps with optimization.


Quote:
Well Gee Whiz.....with the info asked for above supplied, (...and some exact room measurements / opening locations...) it will take me less than 5 minutes to give you an optimum choice

I can update my initial drawing to make it a little bit more clear, and throw in a few pictures as well. With the reorientation of the room, there will be a large opening to the left of the seating area (into the entrance foyer... as I said when I designed the house I used the location of the typical 'formal living room' for the theater), there are two windows with honeycomb blinds (mylar lined ... they are BLACKOUT!) to the right, and to the rear is another opening that goes to the kitchen/family room space.


Quote:
It will be tough on us both if you must necessarily procrastinate. One such as myself, who knows well what the future holds in store for you, can hardly brook any delay.

As you likely have gathered, I am moving forward, my concern about the dining room furniture was made easier when I did more dismantling of things (doors off china cabinet, huge amount of glass and HEAVY ... so I could move it myself) and even taking the legs off the table (seats 8 comfortably with both leaves in) and I moved it out as well.


Quote:
It will be wonderful for you to realize an image that will be worthy of your audio. Ab-sew-lootlee.

Now besides what I asked for and what you have already mentioned..........:
  • Room Colors...A very dark Grey Ceiling is all that is needed....and if the Ceiling is currently Black, that will serve as a good primer for a dark grey...which works just as well but looks soooooo much better when the lights go up. I'm a big Fan of painting Walls a very Deep saturated Dark Red, and then complimenting the Ceiling by painting all the Trim the same shade of Grey only in a Oil Based Eggshell Enamel ---Classy! ---
  • I can suggest some excellent Speakers for Atmos you could slide into easily AND extremely affordable. My goodness...I would NOT haul up short on installing at least 2 Atmos.
  • Amplification: I have it on good account that very soon there will be some 9 Channel Denon 4500 receivers available...New, not refurb...for around $999.00


I will do 4 ceiling mounted atmos, never fear. I have planned 11 channels. Both the 4500 & 3600 process 11. I already have a 200x3 amp for LCR that I have been using for 15 yrs... nice old Acurus that never gets shut off. Caps are still good, although I need to tweek the bias voltage a little, actually I intend to replace the trim pots (a common upgrade on these). So that allows the receiver to do the other channels just fine. Once they start shipping again, I am inclined to go with the 3600 ... although they are going for full retail now, once they are shipping again and the economic crash gets serious, prices will come further down.


For atmos I am considering several different possibilities. I don't think that the expense of the DIYSG Volts are needed, there just isn't that much info in those. A decent set of in-ceiling speakers, WITH PROPER ORIENTATION towards the seating area, will do fine.


Quote:
If there is anything else you want to address (Acoustic Panel Contruction...????) just post again.
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post #30 of 35 Old 05-29-2020, 07:43 PM
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What happened to my posted response? I did reply to your post about the 150"s (25th) and did so in length right after MDJones , and watched it post and show up...but now it's gone!

Things are getting weird. And a bit disconcerting. Could be that I tried to post up using my Phone and thought it was completed.

And / or it's probably me....sometimes I do get members' Posts crossed, thinking I'm addressing one person when actually it is someone else.

I might have an idea what happened...as one member wanted to know why I was suggesting a JVC Laser DLP over a Espon 5050...and he worded his request almost exactly as you did when you asked for an explanation about why I was supposedly saying the 150" diagonal was the best option.

I don't know.....I feel fractured.


I will come back a bit later and go through your most recent post...in detail....and respond accordingly. But for now...I gotta get some rest for once.

"They said it couldn't be done. Well, we sure showed 'em otherwise!"
HAS Advanced Audio and Imaging Solutions...Audio Transducers & Projection Screen Coatings
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