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post #1051 of 1074 Old 06-02-2019, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by dbelon View Post
Right nowI’m thinking the S5 would be sufficient but the 212se would be endgame. Well, two 212se subs would really be the ultimate but that’s not in my budget right now.
Having upgraded from an S5 to a 212se I'd highly recommend stretching to the 212se if you can afford it. Endgame for me would also be a second 212se, but I don't actually have a spot to put it in my current house unfortunately... that and I could renovate my ensuite for the cost of the second 212 haha!
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post #1052 of 1074 Old 06-02-2019, 03:25 PM
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Originally Posted by graphicgoose View Post
Having upgraded from an S5 to a 212se I'd highly recommend stretching to the 212se if you can afford it. Endgame for me would also be a second 212se, but I don't actually have a spot to put it in my current house unfortunately... that and I could renovate my ensuite for the cost of the second 212 haha!
Yes, I’m definitely going for the 212se. Getting it placed and properly setup I’m sure it would have no problem filling the space of my medium sized room. My Focal 1028be mains should be a great match as well.
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post #1053 of 1074 Old 06-02-2019, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by dbelon View Post
Yes, I’m definitely going for the 212se. Getting it placed and properly setup I’m sure it would have no problem filling the space of my medium sized room. My Focal 1028be mains should be a great match as well.
Considering I also own a pair of 1028be's, I can definitely say they're a great match with the 212se! You'll love it!
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post #1054 of 1074 Old 06-02-2019, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by blackspider View Post
for sure both rel s3 can't have the same issue. I noticed this too with my S2 when connected only to lfe input & speakers on the avr set to small. The output was barely there so then tried high level input with it & was blown away.

Hope some other members can share some light on this?

Cheers.
Hope so. I think it’s not seeing the entire signal some how or maybe it’s a bad batch. I’m actually not that impressed with it via high level. My old t7i kills the pair of s3’s. Maybe just a better amp design on the t series.
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post #1055 of 1074 Old 06-03-2019, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryan Kern View Post
Hope so. I think it’s not seeing the entire signal some how or maybe it’s a bad batch. I’m actually not that impressed with it via high level. My old t7i kills the pair of s3’s. Maybe just a better amp design on the t series.
the thing is, everyone here who has the S3 has it hooked up by high level connection & lfe together. So no one can really tell u if its a bad batch you got or its suppose to be that way.

I ordered another S2 from my dealer & got it lying with me but my house in under renovation so can't compare them both with just LFE input. TBH if you bought a Rel subwoofer to just connect it with LFE then you were better of buying the HT series.


Cheers.
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post #1056 of 1074 Old 06-03-2019, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by blackspider View Post
the thing is, everyone here who has the S3 has it hooked up by high level connection & lfe together. So no one can really tell u if its a bad batch you got or its suppose to be that way.

I ordered another S2 from my dealer & got it lying with me but my house in under renovation so can't compare them both with just LFE input. TBH if you bought a Rel subwoofer to just connect it with LFE then you were better of buying the HT series.


Cheers.
I would do SVS or JL for just HT. I listen to primarily music.

I have the S3’s hooked up both ways, I just disconnected the high level to test the LFE by itself. My much older Rel T7i has probably 2-3x the output at the same settings using high level and LFE (and that’s an 8inch active driver). If Rel ever gets back to me, I’ll post their suggestions. It’s a bit of a disappointment given how good the T7i was (it just couldn’t handle frequencies much below 30hz). Rels are typically not boomy, however these barely do anything. Sounds muted, not getting adequate power or is missing frequencies. I have had them plugged into a high current Furman and directly to the wall. I even tested power at the wall and it’s all good. The s3’s are Probably going back though and I may go with a pair of t9i’s.
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post #1057 of 1074 Old 06-03-2019, 01:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryan Kern View Post
I would do SVS or JL for just HT. I listen to primarily music.

I have the S3’s hooked up both ways, I just disconnected the high level to test the LFE by itself. My much older Rel T7i has probably 2-3x the output at the same settings using high level and LFE (and that’s an 8inch active driver). If Rel ever gets back to me, I’ll post their suggestions. It’s a bit of a disappointment given how good the T7i was (it just couldn’t handle frequencies much below 30hz). Rels are typically not boomy, however these barely do anything. Sounds muted, not getting adequate power or is missing frequencies. I have had them plugged into a high current Furman and directly to the wall. I even tested power at the wall and it’s all good. The s3’s are Probably going back though and I may go with a pair of t9i’s.
If you use FB then i would suggest you to check the Rel Acoustic Fan Forum group. The group is created by REL itself.

Try posting your issues there as someone from REL will contact you over there immediately.

Cheers.
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post #1058 of 1074 Old 06-04-2019, 01:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Can you connect your phone to the subwoofer directly and play some familiar music? I have a cable that adapts my iPhone to RCA that I use for testing equipment. It works great for quickly identifying issues.
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post #1059 of 1074 Old 06-05-2019, 06:11 AM
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Rel technical support feedback

I spoke to Rel regarding the limited LFE output on the S3’s and their response was that they internally limit the LFE to limit users from overdriving the sub. I asked some follow up questions and am awaiting reply. Thanks all for the responses.
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post #1060 of 1074 Old 06-05-2019, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Ryan Kern View Post
I spoke to Rel regarding the limited LFE output on the S3’s and their response was that they internally limit the LFE to limit users from overdriving the sub. I asked some follow up questions and am awaiting reply. Thanks all for the responses.
Interesting, could be the case with the S series? As i face the same issue with my S2. Will be installing my other S2 soon & will update then.
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post #1061 of 1074 Old 06-13-2019, 07:59 PM
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Hi All

OK, I have the option to get another REL to replace (or complement), my old storm 5 which has been awesome.
I have the option of a runout G2 for about the same price as a S/5 SHO, but can't stretch to the 212. (both new).
My problem is a few fold, but let me set up the room and gear:

room - 7m x 5 m, 2.4m stud, open ended both ends. Listen across short axis. Currently the Storm 5 sits in the LH back corner beside the sofa because that's the only place I can fit it. Any new one will probably be in the same place except for the G2 which may have to go RH rear room to RHS of sofa. This unfortunately also means that the subs need to run in 180deg phase to be right.
Gear - music and HT. 7.1 surround with B&W 804 D3 fronts, CMC2 center. Homemade 200W power amp. Preamp has HT passthough. Denon -4520 for HT duties (bypassed by preamp for music).
No space at front of room for subs.
Concrete floor with carpet.

My concerns:
1) being so close to the sofa at times I can localise the Storm. Prob means the xover is too high and I need to re-look at that, however it's a down firing sub and I'm concerned the G2 will be easy to localise as in that corner it will be directly facing the sofa. (in both corners in fact). The S5 would fit in corners better and it has that passive radiator.
2) do I need longbow in the future?? Currently I can reach all sub positions but this does mean cables running under the floor rugs which is slightly unsightly. This means NO g2.
3) class a/b vrs D?

THoughts?

Last edited by floatingkiwi; 06-14-2019 at 09:35 PM.
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post #1062 of 1074 Old 06-25-2019, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by dbelon View Post
Recently had the amp on my REL Storm III repaired and was reminded why I love REL subs for music.

Who did your repairs? I ask because a friend recently offered to sell me his REL Storm III. But I view subs and plate amps as wear and tear items and I worry that if I get a sub this old that one day soon I’ll be paying for repairs.

On the other hand everyone talks about how musical these subs are despite being down firing. And I want an accurate sub for music. I’m skeptical of RELs claims when they recommend using the high level inputs and simultaneously say that you’re not missing out if you have to use the dreaded low level inputs. I don’t want to use the high level inputs for two reasons: Dirac on my NAD C658 works via the low level subwoofer RCA outputs and I’ve read warnings about potential failures when high level inputs are used with monoblock power amps. So if I’m not going to use the high level inputs and proprietary mojo that gives the REL Storm III it’s magic sound then am I better off getting something else for the money? I keep coming back to their $2k MSRP and how I can get a used one for 20% of that cost today. Seems like a bargain. But only if it fits my use case w/ Dirac and monoblocks.
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post #1063 of 1074 Old 06-26-2019, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by freedomgli View Post
Who did your repairs? I ask because a friend recently offered to sell me his REL Storm III. But I view subs and plate amps as wear and tear items and I worry that if I get a sub this old that one day soon I’ll be paying for repairs.

On the other hand everyone talks about how musical these subs are despite being down firing. And I want an accurate sub for music. I’m skeptical of RELs claims when they recommend using the high level inputs and simultaneously say that you’re not missing out if you have to use the dreaded low level inputs. I don’t want to use the high level inputs for two reasons: Dirac on my NAD C658 works via the low level subwoofer RCA outputs and I’ve read warnings about potential failures when high level inputs are used with monoblock power amps. So if I’m not going to use the high level inputs and proprietary mojo that gives the REL Storm III it’s magic sound then am I better off getting something else for the money? I keep coming back to their $2k MSRP and how I can get a used one for 20% of that cost today. Seems like a bargain. But only if it fits my use case w/ Dirac and monoblocks.
Do a search on eBay for REL Storm III. It’s a bit pricey but the guy does good work. BTW-I’m using the HI Level Input with tube monoblocks with no issues whatsoever.
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post #1064 of 1074 Old 06-27-2019, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by dbelon View Post
Do a search on eBay for REL Storm III. It’s a bit pricey but the guy does good work. BTW-I’m using the HI Level Input with tube monoblocks with no issues whatsoever.

Thanks. Did you ground the Neutrik connector to your preamp’s phono ground or a chassis screw?
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post #1065 of 1074 Old 06-30-2019, 05:33 PM
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Thanks. Did you ground the Neutrik connector to your preamp’s phono ground or a chassis screw?
Makes no difference. Ground is ground. I used the phono screw.
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post #1066 of 1074 Old 07-01-2019, 06:11 PM
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Makes no difference. Ground is ground. I used the phono screw.
I ask because I read a lot of comments about REL subs and ground loops/ hum.
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post #1067 of 1074 Old 07-09-2019, 01:57 PM
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I have a pair of S5 SHO subs in my dedicated room. I went with these subs on the recommendation of the dealer from which I also bought my speakers. Right now they are connected with both high level and LFE input.

I thought initially I may use the room for music and and movies/games, but have found my music usage is zero. I'm debating reconnecting the system to use LFE only for HT purposes and thinking I overbought based on the defunct music use case.

I came back to the thread to see what people were saying about REL and was considering reconnecting my system for LFE input only (wish the S5 has XLR inputs), but I'm seeing the comments about reduced LFE only output. Is this a systematic concern?

I really like the audio results for HT in the room. These subs rock and I don't feel I'm missing out on anything. Going LFE only though, I could position the subs away from the mains for potentially more optimal HT use as well as not second-guess myself that I have the dual high/low level configuration done properly.

Even have it in the back of my mind perhaps to flip the S5 for a pair for HT/1508 Predators. I like extension, but I also like the feel of fast, tight, accurate bass and that's kind of the selling point of this brand. The HT has XLR inputs, so I can more easily move things around the room than with RCA cables.

Video: JVC NX7, Stewart Cima Neve 135"
Audio: Marantz AV7704, Emotiva XPA-11 Gen 3
Speakers: Focal Electra 1038 Be x 2, Electra CC 1008 Be, Aria 906 x 8, REL S5 SHO x 2
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post #1068 of 1074 Old 07-09-2019, 03:46 PM
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Even have it in the back of my mind perhaps to flip the S5 for a pair for HT/1508 Predators. I like extension, but I also like the feel of fast, tight, accurate bass and that's kind of the selling point of this brand. The HT has XLR inputs, so I can more easily move things around the room than with RCA cables.
You could just buy a couple of Longbow wireless units and then you can move your S5's anywhere in the room you like while still being connected to XLR and LFE. I've got a Longbow connecting my 212SE as it allowed me to put my sub in a corner away from my entertainment cabinet without having to run a cable through the roof (which is notoriously difficult in my house).
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post #1069 of 1074 Old 07-19-2019, 12:54 PM
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Question Rel Q150E Has Quit Working

Hey, everyone.

Glad I stumbled on this dedicated Rel thread. I inherited a Q150E from a family member, it's easily 20-25 years old I'd say. It worked fine up until recently when it won't even power on. I've used the included fuses to see if that was the problem, but no luck. There's a possible chance the fuses are bad, so I haven't ruled that out yet.

My real question for the forum here is, would you pay to have it repaired or just replace it? I admit I have no knowledge of the Rel line or their value so I'm not sure whether it's worth it or not. My gut says replace it, but I wanted to get your opinions first. It's been a great sub up until recently and am fine with a cheap repair to keep the whole system I inherited in tact: Apt Holman Pre-Amp, Carver PM900 Amp, & Magneplanar MG-I speakers.

Cheers!
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post #1070 of 1074 Old 07-19-2019, 10:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I have one of those for my office/ desk system and from what Ive seen on the used market, they're worth about $100-$125 or so. Basically, they're probably cost-prohibitive to repair, unless you can do it, yourself.
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post #1071 of 1074 Old 07-20-2019, 01:15 PM
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Thanks for that. That was my guess. I’ll look for a proper replacement.

Cheers!
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post #1072 of 1074 Old 08-03-2019, 08:43 AM
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Dear all. Having not used a subwoofer in my setup for about 7-8 years I have a couple of questions about how to properly set up a REL T9/i I should be getting in about a weeks time

My AVR is a Yamaha RX-A2080, and it has a setting for subwoofer phase for it's subwoofer output. My first question is simply, if I find that I have to set the REL to 180 degrees when using the high level input in conjunction with my speakers, do I then set the Yamaha's setting to 'reverse' as well?

This is what the manual says:

Quote:
Reverse:
Select this option when a subwoofer is connected to the SUBWOOFER 1 or SUBWOOFER 2 jack (phase reversed). The subwoofer will produce LFE (low-frequency effect) channel audio and low-frequency components from other channels.
I guess I'm just a little bit confused if the two settings would cancel each other out?

Second question: I saw somewhere a while ago that REL recommends that you disconnect the High Level input when doing automatic room calibration on your AVR (YPAO in this instance). Why is this? I will definitely have the High Level input connected at all times, so for me it makes more sense that the calibration is done with this enabled, so the receiver has a better grasp of the entire range of the fronts + REL.

Hopefully someone can help me out here

Last edited by Konsolkongen; 08-03-2019 at 08:51 AM.
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post #1073 of 1074 Old 09-05-2019, 09:07 AM
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Hi all, I currently have the Rel T5 and I am planning on purchasing another sub to go in my 7.2.4 setup. I was thinking of getting the Rel T7i, would it pair well with the T5 or should I just go for two T5's?
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post #1074 of 1074 Old 09-10-2019, 02:34 PM
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New S series!! Or Serie....
https://rel.net/product-category/serie-s/
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