Here is a quote I found that explains the power draw better for those with questions.......
I just went to my breaker panel and I have 20 amp rated breakers but all of the outlets are 15 amp style. I am going to go pull one of the outlets and see if I have 12 gauge wire just to verify. So assuming I have 20 amp in the room, I should be ok with 2 1400s?
The only thing you have to worry about is what else is on the circuit being used. Also, it depends how hard you are pushing the amps. But I wouldn't worry about it. Tell your wife or girlfriend not to be using the hair dryer while you are watching a movie.
Im installing a 20 amp dedicated circuit for 2 - 2400 watt subs just in case. But for now I am running them on 15 amp circuit. Seems to be working so far but I just got the subs. But I don't listed at ear bleeding levels. Subs are not a constant load. And a 15 amp breaker will handle quite a bit for a short burst. Funk Audio has a sub (18.2) 9600 watts (20k peak) that will run on a 20 amp breaker. Most of these D class amps are very efficient. Now if you was running a Class A/B amp, that might be a different story.
Quote from Funk Audio: T Electrical systems are rated at full duty cycle, and for anything less than 100% duty cycle will allow up to 10 times the rated current (for very short bursts). As I am sure you know, audio signals are never 100% duty cycle sine waves, so the amp can draw up to 4800 watts continuous from the wall, and put out nearly as much fully continuous, and much higher semi-continuous peaks, even for a few seconds at a time. Normal material and even tone bursts are quite low actual duty cycle, even a single 20A "220V" circuit will power two amps (power level two) to full power with most material. NOTE: Nathans Power Level 2 amps are 9600 watts each. So that is about 20k watts off a 20A breaker.
AVR-Integra DTR 70.4
1-Acoustec PL-28, 2-Acoustec PL-66's, 4-Bic America FH6-LCR'S, 1-JTR 1400 V2 for some thump!
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