Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 1051 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #31501 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by rkj View Post
Would any of the other DS1510 driver based subs also benefit from a DS1520 + HX1000XLR3 option?

Is the F18 in any way amplifier limited? Could it benefit from a higher power amp option?

The reason we don't offer F15HP with HX1000XLR3 is it may cause the driver to be over-excursion.


F18 is not amplifier limited. At 20hz static, I can see more than 1.25" p-p excursion. That is already more than the linear range of the BL curve. Fortunately, the servo keeps the distortion low. So I am sure it is not amplifier limited.

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post #31502 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 04:55 AM
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Originally Posted by mark.hayes0338 View Post
Wow! That's crazy! I'll keep messing with mine and may up it a little bit, but so far I'm much happier! Thanks again!

If you'd like to hear the bass to be more prominent, you can also use 2port mode instead of 1port mode. The 2port mode has a more full bodied bass because its damping is lower.
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post #31503 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 05:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
Brian, the plot was simply posted to illustrate a point. We were discussing what Dynamic EQs and Loudness controls are attempting to do as well as why many of us prefer to run subs hot.

Here is the Wikipedia page on Equal Loudness Contours: https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equal-loudness_contour

I think perhaps things got a we bit overcomplicated for the original topic under discussion.

I also think it is overcomplicated. I wish I can follow the thread more closely. Dont let me spoil the fun Mike.
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post #31504 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 05:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post
If you'd like to hear the bass to be more prominent, you can also use 2port mode instead of 1port mode. The 2port mode has a more full bodied bass because its damping is lower.
Thanks! I have been trying that as well, going back and forth to see which is better for me. Last night we were listening to some bass heavy tracks and everything on the walls and the windows were rattling. It was quite insane!
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post #31505 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Since you didn't run Audyssey, I don't know how loud the sub was actually playing (50% gain and 0dB sw level don't really mean much taken in isolation of speaker efficiency and levels in room at MLP).

However, since you used Low-HT (engages rumble filter to protect low end from strong sub 20Hz content) and the limiter is always on for the L series models that have the compact amp (and F8/FM8 and FVX15 also have this amp design), I doubt the sub was harmed in any way (especially with no bad noise from sub heard).

However, I would run Audyssey (even if you just turn it off later to get your sub level/gain and distance calibrated) and I would switch the volume scale to relative so you can get an idea of how loud the sub is playing at any time.

If you normally listen well under that and don't run your sub extremely hot (like more than 10dB, for example), then the L12 should be well within its limits during normal listening.

How big is your room, BTW? And is it open to the rest of the house?


Once you get Audyssey done, you can get any idea of how loud the sub can play at a given master volume (MV) setting as follows:

0MV is 115dB for LFE channel
add 5dB for bass management
add whatever dB running sub hot


So, at -15MV it is (115-15)+5+x (x is dB sub running hot)... so in that case is 105dB plus x, meaning that the sub was playing at a minimum of 105dB assuming the movie has 0dBFS peaks (full scale peaks) and very deep bass content where the sub is most limited in max output.


My LV12R is capable of 101dB at 20Hz max output before room/boundary gain (room gain is based on room size and sealed vs open and boundary is 6dB for midwall placement and 9dB for corner placement approximately... only 3dB in middle of room). The L12 has 3.5dB less at 20Hz so 97.5dB at 20Hz.

So, your sub could start compressing at 97.5dB at 20Hz (depending on room acoustics and placement) and with 105dB+ content, it could be compressing quite a bit. Of course, the 97.5dB figure is at 20Hz, which is very low bass (it could play quite a bit louder at 30Hz and even more so at 80Hz, for example).

The only way to know for sure is to do compression sweeps in REW with a calibrated USB mic, but Audyssey plus an understanding of what the sub can do vs. what you demand of it can help you find a listening listen level that is within the sub's normal capabilities. Maxing out a sub regularly will cause it to fail much sooner. However, at your normal listening levels you would have to turn on Dynamic EQ and/or run things very hot for that to happen.
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Originally Posted by ballantyne View Post
Thanks for the info. I won't get a chance to run Audyssey until Sunday, but I shall return and report afterwards.
Okay, I ran Audyssey. It set my levels as follows:

FL: -4.5
FR: -3.5
C: -4.5
SL: -1
SR: +3.5
Sub: 0

The SR number is because that speaker is behind the couch. It sounds balanced from the MLP.

My room is 14x18x9, and is kinda-sorta-open on one side to the kitchen. I've attached a rough diagram of the room.

So, according to many here, that 0 number (+4.5 WRT the front channel) means I don't have enough sub. I still think it sounds awesome, though. And I'm looking at possibly moving in the next few months, to a smaller space, so that plus anticipated future WAF means the L12 is about the biggest (physical size) sub I can swing ATM.
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post #31506 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by ballantyne View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by PlasmaPZ80U View Post
Since you didn't run Audyssey, I don't know how loud the sub was actually playing (50% gain and 0dB sw level don't really mean much taken in isolation of speaker efficiency and levels in room at MLP).

However, since you used Low-HT (engages rumble filter to protect low end from strong sub 20Hz content) and the limiter is always on for the L series models that have the compact amp (and F8/FM8 and FVX15 also have this amp design), I doubt the sub was harmed in any way (especially with no bad noise from sub heard).

However, I would run Audyssey (even if you just turn it off later to get your sub level/gain and distance calibrated) and I would switch the volume scale to relative so you can get an idea of how loud the sub is playing at any time.

If you normally listen well under that and don't run your sub extremely hot (like more than 10dB, for example), then the L12 should be well within its limits during normal listening.

How big is your room, BTW? And is it open to the rest of the house?


Once you get Audyssey done, you can get any idea of how loud the sub can play at a given master volume (MV) setting as follows:

0MV is 115dB for LFE channel
add 5dB for bass management
add whatever dB running sub hot


So, at -15MV it is (115-15)+5+x (x is dB sub running hot)... so in that case is 105dB plus x, meaning that the sub was playing at a minimum of 105dB assuming the movie has 0dBFS peaks (full scale peaks) and very deep bass content where the sub is most limited in max output.


My LV12R is capable of 101dB at 20Hz max output before room/boundary gain (room gain is based on room size and sealed vs open and boundary is 6dB for midwall placement and 9dB for corner placement approximately... only 3dB in middle of room). The L12 has 3.5dB less at 20Hz so 97.5dB at 20Hz.

So, your sub could start compressing at 97.5dB at 20Hz (depending on room acoustics and placement) and with 105dB+ content, it could be compressing quite a bit. Of course, the 97.5dB figure is at 20Hz, which is very low bass (it could play quite a bit louder at 30Hz and even more so at 80Hz, for example).

The only way to know for sure is to do compression sweeps in REW with a calibrated USB mic, but Audyssey plus an understanding of what the sub can do vs. what you demand of it can help you find a listening listen level that is within the sub's normal capabilities. Maxing out a sub regularly will cause it to fail much sooner. However, at your normal listening levels you would have to turn on Dynamic EQ and/or run things very hot for that to happen.
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Originally Posted by ballantyne View Post
Thanks for the info. I won't get a chance to run Audyssey until Sunday, but I shall return and report afterwards.
Okay, I ran Audyssey. It set my levels as follows:

FL: -4.5
FR: -3.5
C: -4.5
SL: -1
SR: +3.5
Sub: 0

The SR number is because that speaker is behind the couch. It sounds balanced from the MLP.

My room is 14x18x9, and is kinda-sorta-open on one side to the kitchen. I've attached a rough diagram of the room.

So, according to many here, that 0 number (+4.5 WRT the front channel) means I don't have enough sub. I still think it sounds awesome, though. And I'm looking at possibly moving in the next few months, to a smaller space, so that plus anticipated future WAF means the L12 is about the biggest (physical size) sub I can swing ATM.
You want to set gain on the sub so that Audyssey sets the sw trim/level to -11 or -10 (not -12 as that is the limit and you don't know if it is really -12 or -15 or -20 or whatever). Then you can turn up as desired without going above 0.

However, I would leave dynamic EQ off if you turn up the sub after Audyssey to avoid overboosting the sw level. Also, when you crank up the master volume you don't want to crank the sw level much because that is when you are more likely to overdrive the sub.

So, the 0 value Audyssey currently used is not an indicator of how loud your sub can play. However, you have to be careful with running the sub hot and dynamic EQ because it can crank up the sub level too much which at higher master volume (MV) can cause you to exceed the output limits of the sub down low.

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post #31507 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post
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Originally Posted by mark.hayes0338 View Post
Wow! That's crazy! I'll keep messing with mine and may up it a little bit, but so far I'm much happier! Thanks again! [IMG class=inlineimg]https://www.avsforum.com//forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

If you'd like to hear the bass to be more prominent, you can also use 2port mode instead of 1port mode. The 2port mode has a more full bodied bass because its damping is lower.
Does my LV12R have more full bodied bass than the LVX12 in 1 port HT mode for the same reason?

(Port tune around 20Hz)

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post #31508 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 08:34 PM
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i know i've asked this before, but i think i need to again as the variables have changed a bit. i have a buyer willing to pay me a fair price for my pair of 15's. if i do this, my plan is to reinvest the money (plus some) and upgrade to a pair of vented 18's. obviously the output will immediately increase moving from 15" to 18" drivers (and reduced port noise at low frequencies), but is my money better spent by adding an additional pair of vented 15's to run 4 in total?

i think my 15's are incredible, but the 18's simply play louder at lower frequencies and that's what i'm after. i think selling & upgrading makes the most sense for me, but i'm open to hearing other opinions.


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post #31509 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 08:43 PM
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my 15hp had me at 117db in my space...adding fv25 made it easy 121 with in certain spots 127db...cant answer your exact question, but 4x15hp sounds good to me.
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post #31510 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 09:19 PM
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i know i've asked this before, but i think i need to again as the variables have changed a bit. i have a buyer willing to pay me a fair price for my pair of 15's. if i do this, my plan is to reinvest the money (plus some) and upgrade to a pair of vented 18's. obviously the output will immediately increase moving from 15" to 18" drivers (and reduced port noise at low frequencies), but is my money better spent by adding an additional pair of vented 15's to run 4 in total?

i think my 15's are incredible, but the 18's simply play louder at lower frequencies and that's what i'm after. i think selling & upgrading makes the most sense for me, but i'm open to hearing other opinions.
If you tuned them the same at 12hz, the 2 FV18's would be 2-3db better 20hz and below. The 4 FV15's would be 2-3db more output at 40hz and above and would most likely have even output at every possible listening position if have enough room and power to put one on each wall of your space.

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post #31511 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 09:34 PM
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If you tuned them the same at 12hz, the 2 FV18's would be 2-3db better 20hz and below. The 4 FV15's would be 2-3db more output at 40hz and above and would most likely have even output at every possible listening position if have enough room and power to put one on each wall of your space.
sadly i can't put one on each wall of the room as i didn't design the room that way and it would look very awkward (the room is 12x22x7). i'm quite happy with how the seat-to-seat response is with the subs in each back corner of the room though--the left & right seats on the couch are about 80%, and the middle is 110%.

i just took some updated pictures tonight after adding some acoustical foam treatments to the room to reduce the reverb that you can see here: https://imgur.com/a/Z1MxQ (yes, i know the couch is hideous, i'm still looking for the right furniture for the room).

if i get another pair of 15's, i'll just stack them on top of the existing ones. if i get 18's, they'll replace the 15's where they are now.


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post #31512 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 10:24 PM
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If I get another pair of 15s, I'll just stack them on top of the existing ones. if I get 18s, they'll replace the 15s where they are now.
Allow me to be the first to suggest that you replace your 15s with a pair of FV25HPs -- it's only $4,498.00 and, after all, what good is money if you don't spend it on the ultimate bass experience?
(Somebody had to say it, so I figured it would be me...)
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post #31513 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 10:36 PM
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Allow me to be the first to suggest that you replace your 15s with a pair of FV25HPs -- it's only $4,498.00 and, after all, what good is money if you don't spend it on the ultimate bass experience?
(Somebody had to say it, so I figured it would be me...)
fv25 is essentially a dual fv15 though.


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post #31514 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by serith View Post
i just took some updated pictures tonight after adding some acoustical foam treatments to the room to reduce the reverb that you can see here: https://imgur.com/a/Z1MxQ (yes, i know the couch is hideous, i'm still looking for the right furniture for the room).
if i get another pair of 15's, i'll just stack them on top of the existing ones. if i get 18's, they'll replace the 15's where they are now.
I saw your for sale ad in the classifieds too. I'm curious did you experiment and find that pointing the drivers at the corners/walls sounded noticeably better than having them pointing away from the back wall toward the sofa and projector screen?

If you added two more FV15s would you stack them on the existing or put them in the front corners? (*edit: missed you answering this above already) I don't know your financial situation, but wouldn't it be more fun to replace with two FV18s and then have the option down the road of getting another pair? If the question comes down to dollars vs. output there are others here more qualified to answer that, but I personally like the idea of having two big bad 18s like you want and having my options open for the future. This is especially true if someone local will come pick up your existing subs for a good price (which isn't always easy to come by with mini-fridge sized subs).
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post #31515 of 40443 Old 11-20-2017, 11:03 PM
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I saw your for sale ad in the classifieds too. I'm curious did you experiment and find that pointing the drivers at the corners/walls sounded noticeably better than having them pointing away from the back wall toward the sofa and projector screen?

If you added two more FV15s would you stack them on the existing or put them in the front corners? I don't know your financial situation, but wouldn't it be more fun to replace with two FV18s and then have the option down the road of getting another pair? If the question comes down to dollars vs. output there are others here more qualified to answer that, but I personally like the idea of having two big bad 18s like you want and having my options open for the future. This is especially true if someone local will come pick up your existing subs for a good price (which isn't always easy to come by with mini-fridge sized subs).
1 - yes, the way they are positioned now firing into the corners of the back of the room has yielded the best results so far. given the dimensions & room layout i don't really have a ton of options for placement. having them fire nearfield into the back of the couch was terrible (i couldn't even tell they were turned on), and having them fire towards the couch but in the back corners was also not good.

2 - yes, if i purchased 2 more i would stack them on top of the 2 i already have.

3 - yes, i would prefer to replace the dual 15's that i have with dual 18's as they simply will move more air at lower frequencies--and then yes, adding another pair gives me even more overhead in the future.

4 - i posted the question here because i was curious what others would do in my situation, and yes lol @ the mini-fridge comment. they definitely aren't small or light-weight.


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post #31516 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 06:01 AM
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fv25 is essentially a dual fv15 though.
Yes, with an extra port for the 12hz tuned at higher spl down low.
To answer your question, It really depends on your finance and how much of a basshead you are. I would get the biggest if i have the money and room. Most folk would say 2 FV15hps are already crazy in the room that small (<1900ft^3) but I have also seen folks here at AVS with 12 to 16 18” subs in similar size room . From reading your posts, I believe you are on the ‘extreme’ basshead side, so a pair of FV25hps upfront and then move your FV15hp pair near field sound reasonable or you can do 4 sealed F18’s.
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post #31517 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 06:19 AM
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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread

@serith I would also recommend the 18s as it gives you an immediate upgrade and gives you the option to get 2 more of those in the future. If budget isn’t a huge concern, seeing as how you’re a basshead like many of us, I would recommend upgrading to 2 FV25HPs for the same reason (leaves door open for 2 more of THOSE in the future). Some of the best advice dispensed here (which I’m just recycling now) is to get the best sub(s) you can afford to leave the door open for a better upgrade later.
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post #31518 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 08:35 AM
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@serith I would also recommend the 18s as it gives you an immediate upgrade and gives you the option to get 2 more of those in the future. If budget isn’t a huge concern, seeing as how you’re a basshead like many of us, I would recommend upgrading to 2 FV25HPs for the same reason (leaves door open for 2 more of THOSE in the future). Some of the best advice dispensed here (which I’m just recycling now) is to get the best sub(s) you can afford to leave the door open for a better upgrade later.
okay, now i'm really considering moving from the pair of 15's that i have to a pair of the fv25's. if this sale goes through for my 15's, plus the multi-sub discount on the new pair, it's not as much as i thought it would be.
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post #31519 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 08:47 AM
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okay, now i'm really considering moving from the pair of 15's that i have to a pair of the fv25's. if this sale goes through for my 15's, plus the multi-sub discount on the new pair, it's not as much as i thought it would be.
I started with a single LV12R with intentions to get a second soon after. I did this against the same advice I gave you and wound up returning it not long after. I realized that I would eventually like to have 2 FV15HPs, but i was OK with 1 for a while. I did eventually get my second FV15HP and don't think I will ever upgrade to a larger sub (at least now for WAY down the road - identical twin girls on the way!). This forum has a way of making people spend more money than they were expecting to (and I realize I'm contributing to that haha), but just make sure you take a look at your budget and desired output and that they weigh well against one another.
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| AVR/Amps: Marantz SR-6011 9C | Audio Source AMP-100VS | iNuke 1000DSP; TTs: 4x AuraSound Pro |
| Center: B&W CM Center 2 S2 Ed | Fronts: 2x B&W 684 S1s | Side Surrounds: 2x B&W 685 S1 |
| Front/Rear Heights: 4x Polk T15 | In-Ceiling: 2x Micca M-8C | Subs: 2x Rythmik FV15HP |
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post #31520 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 12:56 PM
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I started with a single LV12R with intentions to get a second soon after. I did this against the same advice I gave you and wound up returning it not long after. I realized that I would eventually like to have 2 FV15HPs, but i was OK with 1 for a while. I did eventually get my second FV15HP and don't think I will ever upgrade to a larger sub (at least now for WAY down the road - identical twin girls on the way!). This forum has a way of making people spend more money than they were expecting to (and I realize I'm contributing to that haha), but just make sure you take a look at your budget and desired output and that they weigh well against one another.
congrats on the twins! and yes i totally agree that this hobby of ours can get a little out of hand financially. i think like most people here it's not a matter of just having the funds for this recreation, but being able to comfortably afford the purchase(s) and enjoy what your money bought you.

oh and being single helps too


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post #31521 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 01:52 PM
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identical twin girls on the way!
Congrats! You're going to have your hands full, but you should have a lot of fun!
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post #31522 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 02:42 PM
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okay, now i'm really considering moving from the pair of 15's that i have to a pair of the fv25's. if this sale goes through for my 15's, plus the multi-sub discount on the new pair, it's not as much as i thought it would be.
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fv25 is essentially a dual fv15 though.
If you are running all ports open I would stack FV15s. If you are going to run in 12Hz mode I would move to FV18s or FV25s.

The FV18 and FV25 both have the same footprint. The FV25 is taller. Both are f'ing heavy!
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FV18 uses 900WRMS amp and FV25 uses 1800RMS amp.


FV18 will be 3db (updated) higher output than FV15HP. More improvement is from below 18hz where port output is significant. The improvement is via port compression reduction in the following way. In data-bass test data, our compression is the lowest because the servo feedback adjust the amp output so the output of woofer cone always maintain the consistent frequency response. The only exception is below 18hz where port output becomes significant. Since there is no sensor on ports, compression data show the loss of output even after we maintain correct woofer cone movement. Our observation from the data is 1db additional compression loss for every 5db SPL increase until eventually the port wind noise takes over. So I expect to gain 1db more output just from lower port compression. So overall, it is 3db (updated value) more output.


For FV25, we expect 6db more output above 30hz. The enclosure size is reduced by 30% per driver, but we have 50% more power from amp. So in the end each driver in FV25 has approximately same output as FV15HP in the baseline comparison. But the number of ports (and port area) increases from 1 to 1.5 (per driver), therefore it cuts down the compression loss slightly.


One interesting information of FV15HP by data-bass is the 12.5hz max output from FV15HP in 1 port mode is not limited by the 2nd order or 3rd order harmonic distortion like in other tests. This means the amp output is not the limiting factor. Instead it is the upper band noise which is caused by port noise. So how can be reduce that upper band noise and allow for a higher output number with 2nd or 3rd order distortion becoming the limiting factor? First, 50% more port area per driver does help and second, we will use a bit more internal sound absorbing material. So that can give us up to 3db output improvement (or up to 9db total output as I referred early in this thread) at 12.5hz point.
In 12.5Hz mode the FV18 has twice the port area as the FV15 and the FV25 three times (1.5x per driver). Because of this, the FV18 is my personal widget of choice out of Rythmik's ported catalog.
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post #31523 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 03:05 PM
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If you are running all ports open I would stack FV15s. If you are going to run in 12Hz mode I would move to FV18s or FV25s.

The FV18 and FV25 both have the same footprint. The FV25 is taller. Both are f'ing heavy!

In 12.5Hz mode the FV18 has twice the port area as the FV15 and the FV25 three times (1.5x per driver). Because of this, the FV18 is my personal widget of choice out of Rythmik's ported catalog.
yeah i only run my pair in 12.5hz mode, 2 port open means nothing down low. so if i'm understanding what you said right, you'd recommend that i grab a pair of vented 18's?


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post #31524 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 03:23 PM
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yeah i only run my pair in 12.5hz mode, 2 port open means nothing down low. so if i'm understanding what you said right, you'd recommend that i grab a pair of vented 18's?
I recommend 3 FV18s or dual FV25s. Whichever option fits your room the best.

I give the FV18s a slight edge due the variable tune, size & weight. I have back problems though.
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post #31525 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 03:33 PM
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I recommend 3 FV18s or dual FV25s. Whichever option fits your room the best.

I give the FV18s a slight edge due the variable tune, size & weight. I have back problems though.
right now i'm heavily leaning towards dual fv25 as i can easily stick them in the back corners of the room where my 15's are now. as far as moving them, that's what friends & alcohol are for! i've been comparing numbers & graphs between the fv15, 18, and 25 on databass today as well as reading reviews & thoughts from people online. it would appear that the only thing that really outclasses the fv25 is jeff's cap 4000. not quite a fair fight though with the cap using the larger 18" drivers. it's going to cost me about 2.5k to sell & upgrade to the pair of dual 15's--moving to dual cap 4k's would be twice that

rythmik, please make a fv28 in the future <3


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post #31526 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 03:42 PM
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fv25 is essentially a dual fv15 though.
From outward appearances we might guess this to be the case, but the larger enclosure size of the FV25HP enables it to produce greater sound pressure levels at the lowest frequencies with less distortion than a pair of FV15HP subs would be able to achieve, so they aren't quite the same. It's just a matter of physics. The FV25HP also has more powerful amperage than a pair of FV15HP subs.

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post #31527 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 03:49 PM
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2 x FV25HPs is $4498 and 3 x FV18s is $4677... That's a very tough call because both options are great but if is me, I would go with 3 x FV18 because I have the chance later of adding a 4th one. But again, if I go with 2 x FV25HPs then I can add 2 more down the road Like I said, very tough call
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post #31528 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 04:00 PM
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Congrats! You're going to have your hands full, but you should have a lot of fun!

Thanks!

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2 x FV25HPs is $4498 and 3 x FV18s is $4677... That's a very tough call because both options are great but if is me, I would go with 3 x FV18 because I have the chance later of adding a 4th one. But again, if I go with 2 x FV25HPs then I can add 2 more down the road Like I said, very tough call

4x FV25HP
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| 7.2.4 Photos (Updated Photos 1/5) | Frequency Response | Visual: LG 65” B7A OLED | Elite VMAX-2 Electric 120" | Optoma GT1080 Proj |
| AVR/Amps: Marantz SR-6011 9C | Audio Source AMP-100VS | iNuke 1000DSP; TTs: 4x AuraSound Pro |
| Center: B&W CM Center 2 S2 Ed | Fronts: 2x B&W 684 S1s | Side Surrounds: 2x B&W 685 S1 |
| Front/Rear Heights: 4x Polk T15 | In-Ceiling: 2x Micca M-8C | Subs: 2x Rythmik FV15HP |
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post #31529 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 04:01 PM
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Right now I'm heavily leaning towards dual fv25 subs...
Wow, I am definitely impressed by your dedication to subwoofage! When I first offered the encouragement to buy a pair of FV25HPs, I was thinking that my suggestion probably wouldn't be taken seriously.
You have built a beautiful home theater, and dual FV25HPs will be a worthy addition. As you have said, you would need to spend much more money to achieve any better results. Rythmik subs provide bass enthusiasts with a great value-for-dollar ratio.
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Routinely stumbling down rabbit holes...

Last edited by hhowards; 11-21-2017 at 10:09 PM.
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post #31530 of 40443 Old 11-21-2017, 04:28 PM
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it would really be cool to see someone with 4x fv25hp...some sort of stacked config

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5, Magnepan LRS
Subs: Rythmik FV25HP, Rythmik FV15HP
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