Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 1192 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #35731 of 41367 Old 10-21-2018, 06:09 PM
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Now that you've released an awesome dual opposing 15" sub, when can we expect a dual opposing 18" model? I will be first in line for one.

By the way, the amp plate and heatsink on my G25HP look so nice I setup my sub so its facing the front of the room. Also makes it easy to adjust when necessary.
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post #35732 of 41367 Old 10-21-2018, 06:34 PM
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I might have solved the abnormal behaviour of the FV15HP.

I took out the woofer and found that the connection to the driver coil and servo coil is loose.
I crimp tight the clip to make sure the connection is now tight.
The problem seems to have gone away.

Thanks for all the advises.
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post #35733 of 41367 Old 10-21-2018, 07:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post

In terms of integrating subwoofers, my preference is not to let the front speakers play too low in frequency (specially for the floor-standing speakers).

I was very surprised when I experimented with different crossovers in my avr for sub integration.

100hz had best sound but i could localize subs(so not best lol)
40 and 60 hz just lost all my mid bass
so 80 hz it is...the subs I have totally outpower my fronts which arent too shabby alone which I attached how they work in my space.
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Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5, Magnepan LRS
Subs: Rythmik FV25HP, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #35734 of 41367 Old 10-21-2018, 11:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torii View Post
I was very surprised when I experimented with different crossovers in my avr for sub integration.

100hz had best sound but i could localize subs(so not best lol)
40 and 60 hz just lost all my mid bass
so 80 hz it is...the subs I have totally outpower my fronts which arent too shabby alone which I attached how they work in my space.
Yeah, it really depends where they are placed. If they are close, they are much easier to detect, which makes sense. What you can do is play with the slope switch - try switching between the 12dB and 24dB slope and see if you can go back to a 100Hz crossover. That's what worked at my last house. Just know that it means your mains will need more output above the crossover to prevent a dip there due to the sharper rolloff of the sub. Nothing that room correction can't handle.

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post #35735 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 01:41 AM
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Still contemplating which Rythmik sub to buy. As the spouse acceptance factor is quite important for me, it will probaby be one of these:

F12 or E15

Is there a big difference in performance between these two? Dimensions are fairly equal (the E15 being larger, but acceptable)

90% music; 10% movie..

Thanks.
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post #35736 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 08:22 AM
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Originally Posted by MattiasG View Post
F12 or E15

Is there a big difference in performance between these two? Dimensions are fairly equal (the E15 being larger, but acceptable)
Hello Mattias.

Yup, there is a significant difference. The E15 is +5db vs the F12, which is nearly twice as powerful. This primarily matters if your room is large.

What are the dimensions of your space?
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post #35737 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torii View Post
I was very surprised when I experimented with different crossovers in my avr for sub integration.

100hz had best sound but i could localize subs(so not best lol)
40 and 60 hz just lost all my mid bass
so 80 hz it is...the subs I have totally outpower my fronts which arent too shabby alone which I attached how they work in my space.
This is exactly what I found, but having my mains on top of my front subs allows me to run the 100hz xo point without worrying about localization issues. My side and back subs are crossed lower to avoid localization.

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post #35738 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Thanks, Brian! I appreciate the explanation and I understand your reasoning. I have compared the mid-bass efficiency of the FV25HP and the two versions of the Cap 2400, and I agree completely with what you are saying about the Rythmik sub. I think that the FV25HP is a terrific all-around performer.

I was actually thinking of something else when I asked the question. Several people really liked what was described as a slightly warmer sound signature and increased low-bass tactile response from the paper cone FV18. Since low-bass TR is a goal for some buyers, especially those on concrete floors, I was just curious as to whether that option were being considered.

Regards,
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Isn't that the purpose of the damping feature?
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post #35739 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by MattiasG View Post
Still contemplating which Rythmik sub to buy. As the spouse acceptance factor is quite important for me, it will probaby be one of these:

F12 or E15

Is there a big difference in performance between these two? Dimensions are fairly equal (the E15 being larger, but acceptable)

90% music; 10% movie..

Thanks.
From my experience, when you have to ask, you already know the answer: get the bigger one
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post #35740 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 09:28 AM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
From my experience, when you have to ask, you already know the answer: get the bigger one
+1. You will be SO glad that you went to the 15" subs when you have them in room. 15"s have basically 50% more cone area than a 12" driver. Headroom is a wonderful thing.

Last edited by Eric HA; 10-22-2018 at 09:49 AM.
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post #35741 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 09:36 AM
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^^ When I said get the bigger one, I meant the F18
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post #35742 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 11:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattiasG View Post
F12 or E15

Is there a big difference in performance between these two? Dimensions are fairly equal (the E15 being larger, but acceptable)
Hello Mattias.

Yup, there is a significant difference. The E15 is +5db vs the F12, which is nearly twice as powerful. This primarily matters if your room is large.

What are the dimensions of your space?
Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MattiasG View Post
Still contemplating which Rythmik sub to buy. As the spouse acceptance factor is quite important for me, it will probaby be one of these:

F12 or E15

Is there a big difference in performance between these two? Dimensions are fairly equal (the E15 being larger, but acceptable)

90% music; 10% movie..

Thanks.
From my experience, when you have to ask, you already know the answer: get the bigger one [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
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Originally Posted by Eric HA View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
From my experience, when you have to ask, you already know the answer: get the bigger one [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
+1. You will be SO glad that you went to the 15" subs when you have them in room. 15"s have basically 50% more cone area than a 12" driver. Headroom is a wonderful thing. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]
Thanks guys. It's a bit of a pricedifference between the two. As I'm importing them (customs etc) to Europe.

The room is 27ft by 14ft - 8ft 7inch high.
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post #35743 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by MattiasG View Post

The room is 27ft by 14ft - 8ft 7inch high.
Definitely an E/F15 at the minimum. Then there is a hp2 version also.
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post #35744 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattiasG View Post

The room is 27ft by 14ft - 8ft 7inch high.
Definitely an E/F15 at the minimum. Then there is a hp2 version also.
I need to connect via speakerlevel, I believe the HP2 doesnt have those?
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post #35745 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
Definitely an E/F15 at the minimum. Then there is a hp2 version also.
I'm sorry...? HP2 version? It is not mentioned on the F15 web page. Is there more information available?

Thanks.
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post #35746 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 11:47 AM
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Thanks for the insight. There was no interruption in sound, so I'm assuming the subs never actually turned off. I was just curious what the change in light color might have meant. I assumed there was some explanation.
It means you should be turning down the gain/trim/volume a bit...

When the light turns red you have run into the limiter, and in essence that means there is more to the soundtrack than the sub was able to produce because it was pushed to its max and had nothing left to give. The occasional flicker might not seem bad, but how high was the peak you missed because the amp had to clip the signal in order to protect itself? For me, dynamic transients like that are worth everything. Without those very distinct shifts some of the experience gets lost. Also, depending upon the content you could be running the sub hard more frequently than the indicator suggests; if you are hitting the limiter, how much of the other material is just below that threshold? If it's a lot than you are likely generating a good amount of heat in the amp, voice coil, etc. Long periods of heat soak are probably not going to be good for either.

I know Brian already responded and he didn't seem too worried, so I doubt you should be either. Even if the hardware won't suffer from being pushed to that extent, what you ultimately hear may not be as detailed as it could (should?) be. You may want to consider turning it down 1 click to stay off the limiter, but that's totally your call. It's kinda like dealing with your spouse; keep pushing until you find their limit then back it down just a touch.

 
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post #35747 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 11:47 AM
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I'm sorry...? HP2 version? It is not mentioned on the F15 web page. Is there more information available?

Thanks.
The E15HP2 is the E15HP with DS1520 driver + HX1000XLR3 amp. It's in the E15HP weblink.
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Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony 77A9G OLED |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |
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post #35748 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post
It means you should be turning down the gain/trim/volume a bit...

When the light turns red you have run into the limiter, and in essence that means there is more to the soundtrack than the sub was able to produce because it was pushed to its max and had nothing left to give. The occasional flicker might not seem bad, but how high was the peak you missed because the amp had to clip the signal in order to protect itself? For me, dynamic transients like that are worth everything. Without those very distinct shifts some of the experience gets lost. Also, depending upon the content you could be running the sub hard more frequently than the indicator suggests; if you are hitting the limiter, how much of the other material is just below that threshold? If it's a lot than you are likely generating a good amount of heat in the amp, voice coil, etc. Long periods of heat soak are not going to be good for either.

I know Brian already responded and he didn't seem too worried, so I doubt you should be either. Even if the hardware won't suffer from being pushed to that extent, what you ultimately hear may not be as detailed as it could (should?) be. You may want to consider turning it down 1 click to stay off the limiter, but that's totally your call. It's kinda like dealing with your spouse; keep pushing until you find their limit then back it down just a touch.
Red blink during operation means Limiter kicked in. The Limiter, as any limiter plugin in pro audio, acts in the input gain stage, meaning it works when the input signal is too hot and reach the threshold established. Like Jim said, to avoid Limiter to trigger you have to bring the subwoofer level in the receiver a couple of dBs down or the main volume on the receiver down, your call.

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post #35749 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
The E15HP2 is the E15HP with DS1520 driver + HX1000XLR3 amp. It's in the E15HP weblink.

The HX1000XLR3 doesn't have the high level inputs (speaker level), that the H600PEQ3 does have which comes on the normal E15HP, am I correct?
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post #35750 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 12:15 PM
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The HX1000XLR3 doesn't have the high level inputs (speaker level), that the H600PEQ3 does have which comes on the normal E15HP, am I correct?
Yes, correct. You can always use one of these:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_543ADP...l-Adapter.html
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post #35751 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 12:17 PM
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Like Jim said, to avoid Limiter to trigger you have to bring the subwoofer level in the receiver a couple of dBs down or the main volume on the receiver down, your call.
Nah, what’s the fun of that? . A better option is to add another F18 - problem solved
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post #35752 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattiasG View Post
The HX1000XLR3 doesn't have the high level inputs (speaker level), that the H600PEQ3 does have which comes on the normal E15HP, am I correct?
Yes, correct. You can always use one of these:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_543ADP...l-Adapter.html
Wow, I didn't even know this was possible. Is there a significant loss of quality or increase in distortion involved of anything like that?

Thanks.
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post #35753 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 12:32 PM
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Wow, I didn't even know this was possible. Is there a significant loss of quality or increase in distortion involved of anything like that?

Thanks.
I have a few customers using those without any problems and zero degradation in the input signal. In fact, something like that is what Jim Salk does to get the signal from speaker level inputs into the HX580 amp on the Exotica 3 speakers.

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post #35754 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 12:40 PM
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I have a few customers using those without any problems and zero degradation in the input signal. In fact, something like that is what Jim Salk does to get the signal from speaker level inputs into the HX580 amp on the Exotica 3 speakers.
My main concern would be if it uses a common ground on the speaker side? That could short a bridged amplifier output... If not, good to go (and good to go for every amp with a common ground, which is most of them).

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My main concern would be if it uses a common ground on the speaker side? That could short a bridged amplifier output... If not, good to go (and good to go for every amp with a common ground, which is most of them).
That's correct. However, like you said, most amps these days have common ground.

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Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony 77A9G OLED |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |
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The amp I'm using is the Pioneer A-70, from 2013, I assume that's good to go then. Next step is to convince my SO and then it's time to get an order in


I will probably settle for a E15HP. That will be more than enough power for my needs, you Americans are quite the bassheads ;-)



Thanks for the info again guys.
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post #35757 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 05:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimWilson View Post
It means you should be turning down the gain/trim/volume a bit...

When the light turns red you have run into the limiter, and in essence that means there is more to the soundtrack than the sub was able to produce because it was pushed to its max and had nothing left to give. The occasional flicker might not seem bad, but how high was the peak you missed because the amp had to clip the signal in order to protect itself? For me, dynamic transients like that are worth everything. Without those very distinct shifts some of the experience gets lost. Also, depending upon the content you could be running the sub hard more frequently than the indicator suggests; if you are hitting the limiter, how much of the other material is just below that threshold? If it's a lot than you are likely generating a good amount of heat in the amp, voice coil, etc. Long periods of heat soak are probably not going to be good for either.

I know Brian already responded and he didn't seem too worried, so I doubt you should be either. Even if the hardware won't suffer from being pushed to that extent, what you ultimately hear may not be as detailed as it could (should?) be. You may want to consider turning it down 1 click to stay off the limiter, but that's totally your call. It's kinda like dealing with your spouse; keep pushing until you find their limit then back it down just a touch.
It was much louder than I would typically listen and I did turn the volume down. The gain on each of my two F18s is around 1pm. I think the AVR trim, or whatever it's called, is -3db for each sub and the master volume was at -5. I'm not sure if you've ever seen that movie, Rogue One, but I think the first time it happened was when the death star test fired on that planet to destroy Jedha city. I guess it was like a Tsunami except that it was "earth" instead of water. It felt like something was about to blow up or explode, perhaps my house. It was a pretty dynamic scene. Maybe I need a couple more F18s.
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post #35758 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 06:06 PM
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It felt like something was about to blow up or explode, perhaps my house.

Maybe I need a couple more F18s.



HT: Samsung PN64H5000 (recommended settings) | NAD T758 V3 | Buchardt S400 (2) | Polk LSiM 702 F/X (2) | Infinity RS152 (4) | Subs TBD (2)
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post #35759 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
The E15HP2 is the E15HP with DS1520 driver + HX1000XLR3 amp. It's in the E15HP weblink.
Thanks, Enrico.

I have follow-up question: What is the difference between the DS1510 driver and the DS1520 driver? I looked on the Rythmic site for information and found this:

"DS1510 features anodized aluminum cone, a 3" voice coil, and 200 oz magnet. Its linear excursion range has increased to +/- 20mm (from +/-15mm of DS1501)."

"DS1520 features anodized aluminum cone, a 3" voice coil, and 200 oz magnet. Its linear excursion range has increased to +/- 20mm."

Are they essentially the same driver? Thanks!
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post #35760 of 41367 Old 10-22-2018, 08:19 PM
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Went and picked up my FV25HP and got her 'installed'! Lol

Haven't went through Audesseyy yet, but played with it a bit and definitely love what I'm hearing so far. Put er' in a back corner and that is where she'll stay until UMIK gets here..

Anyways, I have it plugged into the LFE and not Line In. All default settings besides the volume..

Will be reading more, running EQ and asking questions ad the days go on. Thank you again to all those who gave advice and all the amazing dudes and ladies at Rythmik!!
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65" 900E Tee Vee | Denon 6300H AVR | PSA MTM-210s | PSA MTM-210c | PSA MTM-110s | Canton 880 InCeilings | Rythmik FV25HP
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f12g subwoofer , integra dtc 9.8 , lv12r , Rythmik , Rythmik Audio , Rythmik Audio F12 Direct Servo Subwoofer , Rythmik Audio F15 Subwoofer , servo sub

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