Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 1230 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #36871 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by imureh View Post
I think ported would be a better choice in that space. The V1811 is the most compact 18 inch sub available but does not dig very deep. However the output from that sub is really good
Here is out everything is currently set up. Only moved into this space in November (and just got that couch last weekend). Another option I thought of, is putting 1 sub at each of the spots the TV trays are currently sitting at.

Unfortunately, I don't have a laptop or PC at home, so I can measure with REW to give exact FR.
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post #36872 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Kirkobangz View Post
Here is out everything is currently set up. Only moved into this space in November (and just got that couch last weekend). Another option I thought of, is putting 1 sub at each of the spots the TV trays are currently sitting at.

Unfortunately, I don't have a laptop or PC at home, so I can measure with REW to give exact FR.
Get two FV18 paper cones, and put the speakers on them.
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post #36873 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by drh3b View Post
Get two FV18 paper cones, and put the speakers on them.


That would be awesome. The move from s1510 to E15 to me is a little lateral move.


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Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik FV18s Rev2 with Paper cone, BOSS Platform mini riser, 2 BK LFE
Speakers: PSA MTM-210 L/C/R - Klipsch 250S Surrounds, PSA MT 110sr Rear Surrounds, 4 x SVS Prime Elevation for Atmos
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post #36874 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Kirkobangz View Post
Here is out everything is currently set up. Only moved into this space in November (and just got that couch last weekend). Another option I thought of, is putting 1 sub at each of the spots the TV trays are currently sitting at.

Unfortunately, I don't have a laptop or PC at home, so I can measure with REW to give exact FR.
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Originally Posted by drh3b View Post
Get two FV18 paper cones, and put the speakers on them.
Or FV15HP or FVX15 if you don't want to spend for FV18.
I believe you get a discount on two if you buy them together. Or, a discount on one if you buy it later as a returning customer.

Or even two more of the PSA, and stack em, two and two, if you are just looking for more output.

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post #36875 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Kirkobangz View Post
Here is out everything is currently set up. Only moved into this space in November (and just got that couch last weekend). Another option I thought of, is putting 1 sub at each of the spots the TV trays are currently sitting at.

Unfortunately, I don't have a laptop or PC at home, so I can measure with REW to give exact FR.
Hi,

I agree with the suggestion to get two FV18's, if you can swing it. You could try them under your speakers as suggested, or where your end tables are. Even without REW, you can find good locations for your subwoofers by trial-and-error, and you could test the locations flanking your sectional sofa with your existing subs.

A lot of people try to fit their subwoofer selections to specific spaces, and sometimes necessity really does compel that approach. A better approach, in my opinion, is to fit the subwoofers to our listening requirements and bass preferences, and to rely on our ingenuity to find workable locations for them.

Most of us end-up doing that, anyway. It just takes us more time to realize that we really want to have more powerful subs than the ones which fit in a particular location, and that we really can find alternative ways to accommodate them. I believe that if more people used that approach from the outset, there would be fewer people constantly upgrading subs on AVS. And, most of us have been there.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #36876 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I also enjoyed the discussion and appreciate the value of these sorts of analytical comparisons. But, having used the term "value" in the preceding sentence, I think that determining performance value, as a ratio to cost, is a very tricky exercise. Although I think that the 20Hz frequency you picked is a very logical one (that is still the Dolby/THX standard), we pay disproportionately more for frequencies below 20Hz. So, even leaving size, features, finishes, and intangibles out of the equation, the performance/cost ratio will still vary depending on the specific low-extension goals of the individual.
Agree. The reason for 20Hz is simple: that is the measure Rythmik uses and thus is the one point we have data for.

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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
It will be interesting to hear your reaction, if you move to ported subs. Everything is relative, but the Rythmik ported subs may sound more like sealed subwoofers, compared to some other ported subs. I will be interested to hear your observations in that respect. I thought it was interesting that Enrico added an FV25, and said it sounded like adding another sealed sub. That's pretty cool! (Well, apparently that's not quite what Enrico meant, but I still have a feeling these ported subs would sound a little smoother than most ported subs.)
I am very interested in the FVX15. I'm at the point where, after much reading and discussing from/with those who know a lot more about this than I do, including Floyd Toole, that with a quality sub like this, tuned really low, any difference in the impulse that would otherwise create a different sound, should be below the audible level. I know people in this thread have stated they can tell a difference in sound between sealed and ported Rythmik subs, though, so I can't be clear until I can hear it for myself. We'll see...

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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
There is one thing that I might point-out about your list of caveats. Acoustic coupling is a little more complicated than that. Subwoofers should couple acoustically at 1/4 wavelength of a particular frequency, and if they do, there will be a 6db gain. But, depending on room modes they might gain or lose SPL at a particular frequency, beyond that 1/4 wavelength distance. Identical subwoofers, in the same room, should average 6db more SPL, across their entire bandwidth. But, there will be peaks and dips in the SPL, depending on room modes. The 6db gain will only be theoretically 6db, at every frequency, when the subwoofers are very close together. I keep saying theoretically for a reason.
Of course, but that is a variable for each room that is beyond our control, so I'd rather just state the basics. People buying Rythmik should know that their room will affect their bass.

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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Still another complicating factor is dependent on the room's longest room dimension, in a room with four walls. The diagonal dimension from corner-to-corner, and from floor to ceiling, times two (because the wavelength has to make a return trip) determines the frequency at which pressure vessel gain (PVG) occurs. Below that frequency, room modes no longer cause peaks and dips, and the room only gives back acoustically. The reason I mention that is because, in many rooms, PVG would occur at or before 20Hz.
I am far from qualified to delve into room acoustics at this point so, I'll just stick to the purchase decision

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Given the complexity of the issue of what frequencies may mutually couple in a particular room, I would just leave caveats like that one out of your helpful analysis.
Here's where I disagree. I think it needed to be said because of the way price to performance was calculated. A couple of factors that went into it are 1) Rythmik compares their subs relatively, which is GREAT, but 2) Rythmik gives a multi-sub discount that is not the same for all models, which changes price/performance, and 3) to accurately compare price/performance with 2 subs, it was necessary to use +6dB as the change in performance but still benchmark it to 20Hz. Given this, I felt it was necessary to at least state the basics of why the +6dB when buying two, and at what point you would *not* see that gain. It would be worse if someone was led to think they would just get an automatic +6dB across the spectrum. So, caveats apply!

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Regards,
Mike
Appreciate the response.
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HT: Samsung PN64H5000 (recommended settings) | NAD T758 V3 | Buchardt S400 (2) | Emotiva E2 (2) | Rythmik Audio F12 (2)

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post #36877 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Get a FV25HP and you will have the best of both worlds. Dual driver ported subwoofer with high resolution tight bass for music and powerful bass with a lot of TR for movies. I just setup one in my living room which is running along with his two little brothers, the twins F12SEs
So basically you climb over the backs of the chairs to get in?

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post #36878 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 03:55 PM
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So basically you climb over the backs of the chairs to get in?
I get in through the kitchen
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Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio - Dialing In Rythmik Audio Subwoofers - REW for macOS
Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony 77A9G OLED |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |
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post #36879 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 05:01 PM
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Originally Posted by csprague View Post
I currently have a 25x20x8' room

Anyway, I'm trying to decide between dual F12s or a single F15. Possibly even dual L12s if that would cut it. With 4000cf and the associated data I gave, what is the general recommendation?
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Originally Posted by imureh View Post
Its really all about your goals. The F12s are good subs but in that size space they would struggle to fill it. But if you are not looking to fill that space with bass then they would work fine. Just depends what u are after and listening to music at moderate levels with those subs would be just fine. Don’t expect chest thumping bass though.
2xF12 in 25*21*8 room, not square, but L-shaped, so maybe 3400 ft³...but open to rest of house

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The subs were 11 feet in front and 10 feet behind, so not chest-thumping, but it was adequate. I scared the gf with the opening opening salvo of Live, Die, Repeat to the point that she got mad and asked me to do something about the sound.

HT: Samsung PN64H5000 (recommended settings) | NAD T758 V3 | Buchardt S400 (2) | Emotiva E2 (2) | Rythmik Audio F12 (2)

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post #36880 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 07:57 PM
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My 2 fv18 paper cones arrived today. Jesus Christ. These things are monsters.

Is there a TLDR list of settings? I’m a total noob and got these because I hate my neighbors and hate wasting money on things that are not the best. Got some subwoofer cable from Amazon and have a denon 4500 and PSA 220’s. House is being built but I want to test these in my shop. The guy who’s framing my house is a bass nut and when he saw them he said they will call the police on me.

Edit: oh and they came with a cable that has no ground. Is this cool or should I get a proper cable with ground? I’m doing the electric work on my new house and have a dedicated circuit for the subs so I’m thinking of running them at 220v.
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post #36881 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by RichardPryor View Post
My 2 fv18 paper cones arrived today. Jesus Christ. These things are monsters.



Is there a TLDR list of settings? I’m a total noob and got these because I hate my neighbors and hate wasting money on things that are not the best. Got some subwoofer cable from Amazon and have a denon 4500 and PSA 220’s. House is being built but I want to test these in my shop. The guy who’s framing my house is a bass nut and when he saw them he said they will call the police on me.


Congrats! And welcome my FV18 paper cone amigo. There should be a paper that has the amp settings. Connect the sub cable to line in and to your sub out on AVR. Make sure limiter is on and rumble filter. You then try different frequencies and damping settings to see which one you like. I would try 16hz high damping with all ports open first and then try the port plugged ones. You can also try playing with peq to add a bit more mid bass.


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Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik FV18s Rev2 with Paper cone, BOSS Platform mini riser, 2 BK LFE
Speakers: PSA MTM-210 L/C/R - Klipsch 250S Surrounds, PSA MT 110sr Rear Surrounds, 4 x SVS Prime Elevation for Atmos
Video: Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 6500 UB; Room: 2100 cuft sealed on suspended floor
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post #36882 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 08:40 PM
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Any reason why the cable that came with them doesn’t provide for ground? Will having the subs grounded mess with something? I will need to get a new cable to run them at 220v so might have to improvise something if I don’t want them to be grounded.
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post #36883 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 08:42 PM
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Oh and my subs came with just 1 of the things that you close the ports with. Not on all 3.
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post #36884 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 09:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichardPryor View Post
My 2 fv18 paper cones arrived today. Jesus Christ. These things are monsters.

Is there a TLDR list of settings? I’m a total noob and got these because I hate my neighbors and hate wasting money on things that are not the best. Got some subwoofer cable from Amazon and have a denon 4500 and PSA 220’s. House is being built but I want to test these in my shop. The guy who’s framing my house is a bass nut and when he saw them he said they will call the police on me.

Edit: oh and they came with a cable that has no ground. Is this cool or should I get a proper cable with ground? I’m doing the electric work on my new house and have a dedicated circuit for the subs so I’m thinking of running them at 220v.
That's awesome news mate!!!!
Can't wait to see pictures!


Edit* make sure you hit @imureh up with settings etc, you guys will be basically running the exact same system
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TV: Panasonic P65ST60 AVR: Denon X4000 Speakers: PSA MTM-210C (Centre), PSA MTM-210 (Left & Right), PSA MT-110 (Surrounds) Subwoofers: Dual Seaton SubMersives

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post #36885 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RichardPryor View Post
Oh and my subs came with just 1 of the things that you close the ports with. Not on all 3.
I think the FV18 is only recommended to be used in either all ports open or 1 port plugged, not sealed (or 2 ports plugged as this drops the tuning too low)

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
TV: Panasonic P65ST60 AVR: Denon X4000 Speakers: PSA MTM-210C (Centre), PSA MTM-210 (Left & Right), PSA MT-110 (Surrounds) Subwoofers: Dual Seaton SubMersives
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post #36886 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 09:17 PM
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Any reason why the cable that came with them doesn’t provide for ground? Will having the subs grounded mess with something? I will need to get a new cable to run them at 220v so might have to improvise something if I don’t want them to be grounded.
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Oh and my subs came with just 1 of the things that you close the ports with. Not on all 3.
OK let me clear this up. The HX1000XLR3 and HX2000XLR3 amps have no ground prong because they are grounded internally (double insulated). You can clearly see that in the power socket that there is no ground prong. Also, our subwoofers are 120V-240V Single Phase Power Voltage rated and in the USA only 120V is single phase (2 wires) 1 Hot (120V) + 1 Neutral. In the USA, 240V is 2 x Hot (120V each) + 1 x Neutral (3 wires) or 240V 3 Phase Delta. If you plug our subwoofers to any 240V outlet in the USA, you will blow out instantly the amplifier. The 240V that our subwoofers can handle is the European power voltage which is 240V single phase (2 wires) with 1 x Hot (240V) + 1 Neutral.

Regarding the port plugs, the FV18 only comes with one port plug as you can use it with 3 ports open (no plug) or two ports open (1 port plugged).
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Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony 77A9G OLED |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |

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post #36887 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 09:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Kirkobangz View Post
Here is out everything is currently set up. Only moved into this space in November (and just got that couch last weekend). Another option I thought of, is putting 1 sub at each of the spots the TV trays are currently sitting at.

Unfortunately, I don't have a laptop or PC at home, so I can measure with REW to give exact FR.
I'll go against the grain and recommend trading the 2 x S1510s in on a pair of PSA S3010s (used as stands for the Kefs)
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. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
TV: Panasonic P65ST60 AVR: Denon X4000 Speakers: PSA MTM-210C (Centre), PSA MTM-210 (Left & Right), PSA MT-110 (Surrounds) Subwoofers: Dual Seaton SubMersives
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post #36888 of 40432 Old 01-30-2019, 10:10 PM
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Hello just wanted to drop in and say i got my fv18 paper cone and i have been testing this beast all day! Wow i must say i have never been blown away by the sheer sound quality of a subwoofer like this! Not only is this thing an earthquake beast but it sounds so clean and accurate i legit was smiling all day that my face hurt. Im one happy customer [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

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post #36889 of 40432 Old 01-31-2019, 05:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Ssj3Gokulegend! View Post
Hello just wanted to drop in and say i got my fv18 paper cone and i have been testing this beast all day! Wow i must say i have never been blown away by the sheer sound quality of a subwoofer like this! Not only is this thing an earthquake beast but it sounds so clean and accurate i legit was smiling all day that my face hurt. Im one happy customer [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]


Congrats man. It’s great to see more of the paper cones in the wild now. It is indeed a super sub.


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Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik FV18s Rev2 with Paper cone, BOSS Platform mini riser, 2 BK LFE
Speakers: PSA MTM-210 L/C/R - Klipsch 250S Surrounds, PSA MT 110sr Rear Surrounds, 4 x SVS Prime Elevation for Atmos
Video: Epson PowerLite Home Cinema 6500 UB; Room: 2100 cuft sealed on suspended floor
Receiver & Players: Denon X4400H, Oppo UDP-203, Roku Ultra. Apple TV, Minidsp 2X4 HD
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post #36890 of 40432 Old 01-31-2019, 02:02 PM
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NOOB question. What is the difference between connecting to LFE versus Line In when PEQ is set to off?
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post #36891 of 40432 Old 02-01-2019, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by wongikmg View Post
NOOB question. What is the difference between connecting to LFE versus Line In when PEQ is set to off?
LFE bypasses all low pass filtering (sometimes labeled crossover) and also bypasses the variable phase/delay control.

Line In has all of that active and usable.

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NOOB question. What is the difference between connecting to LFE versus Line In when PEQ is set to off?
LFE bypasses all low pass filtering (sometimes labeled crossover) and also bypasses the variable phase/delay control.

Line In has all of that active and usable.
And the bandwidth is different - look at the model page on Rythmik's site for that info.

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post #36893 of 40432 Old 02-01-2019, 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I have several thoughts on this. First, the mid-point of opposing walls can be a good solution for a rectangular room, but so can 1/4 length walls, diagonal corners, and other placements. Bear's point about getting the subwoofers you want and experimenting with placement is a good one, in my opinion. If I were you, I would put my CC on a speaker stand at the height you want, and try the subwoofer you want next to it, or somewhere else on the front wall. I don't think it will mind if it isn't precisely at the center of the wall, anyway.

I wouldn't be keen on mixing subwoofers with different tuning points and different frequency responses, if I were you. That would be inviting some cancellation problems, and some level-matching issues, especially if the stronger sub were actually closer to the listening position. Personally, I would get dual FV18's, with the paper cones. With the room gain you would be getting, I think that you would have all of the low-frequency SPL you could ever want. And, I think that the paper cone FV18's would definitely be helpful with respect to low-frequency TR on concrete.

Regards,
Mike
I don't know. I have a hard time convincing myself to go with the placement of two subs that is not as optimal, when I can make the optimal placement work. Diagonally opposite corners, for example, will be about halfway between one sub optimally located and two subs at midpoint of opposing walls, in terms of minimizing the seat to seat variation. Same goes for the other placement option that was suggested. My perspective is that I buy the first subwoofer to give me the output that I need in the room and the second one is only for getting more even response from seat to seat. With the suboptimal placement, it is almost as if I am paying full price for the second sub, but only getting half of the sub in terms of reducing the standing waves.

Now, if the FV18 is going to feel significantly more tactile than the FV15HP, if I were to A/B both playing at -15dB, then I can convince myself that it is worth it to get the bigger, more expensive sub just for that, even though I would be giving up some of the reduction in standing waves.






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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
It's good that you are basing placement on where they should perform well. As far as capability, -15 MV for 100 dB, 5 hot puts you at 105, a little hotter with redirected bass puts you up to 110, so I think your estimates make sense. In my experience, in a room that is small enough to offer some room gain, you should be flat below 20 Hz until the sub starts to roll off quickly below tune. So a single FV15HP, with even a small amount of boundary and room gain, should be good for 110 dB at 20 Hz. A pair should be good for 115+, and this should put you solid into the low teens and close to 10 Hz. I think you'll be covered.

You are in a similar situation to me....typically not louder than -15 and I want 115 dB capability into the low teens to cover any scenario.

Not trying to dissuade you from considering FV18's, and I think Mike's suggestion of the paper cone version makes sense for TR for movies. It's never a mistake imo to buy a little more sub than you think you need. How likely is it that -15Mv will be the loudest you will listen, ever? Room treatment and high efficiency speakers, if you ever go that route, can make listening closer to reference more and more tolerable. I've been in theaters where reference level was easier on the ears than -10 MV in my room.
It is so easy to just want bigger and bigger, rather than getting the proper sized sub for the needs dictated by the room and listening preferences. It's nice to hear that you too think the FV15HP will be enough for my room and how loud I tend to listen. I think I am leaning that way, unless the FV18 will be significantly more tactile than the FV15HP, if I were to A/B them both playing at -15dB.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schrodinger23 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I have several thoughts on this. First, the mid-point of opposing walls can be a good solution for a rectangular room, but so can 1/4 length walls, diagonal corners, and other placements. Bear's point about getting the subwoofers you want and experimenting with placement is a good one, in my opinion. If I were you, I would put my CC on a speaker stand at the height you want, and try the subwoofer you want next to it, or somewhere else on the front wall. I don't think it will mind if it isn't precisely at the center of the wall, anyway. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/wink.gif[/IMG]

I wouldn't be keen on mixing subwoofers with different tuning points and different frequency responses, if I were you. That would be inviting some cancellation problems, and some level-matching issues, especially if the stronger sub were actually closer to the listening position. Personally, I would get dual FV18's, with the paper cones. With the room gain you would be getting, I think that you would have all of the low-frequency SPL you could ever want. And, I think that the paper cone FV18's would definitely be helpful with respect to low-frequency TR on concrete.

Regards,
Mike
I don't know. I have a hard time convincing myself to go with the placement of two subs that is not as optimal, when I can make the optimal placement work. Diagonally opposite corners, for example, will be about halfway between one sub optimally located and two subs at midpoint of opposing walls, in terms of minimizing the seat to seat variation. Same goes for the other placement option that was suggested. My perspective is that I buy the first subwoofer to give me the output that I need in the room and the second one is only for getting more even response from seat to seat. With the suboptimal placement, it is almost as if I am paying full price for the second sub, but only getting half of the sub in terms of reducing the standing waves.

Now, if the FV18 is going to feel significantly more tactile than the FV15HP, if I were to A/B both playing at -15dB, then I can convince myself that it is worth it to get the bigger, more expensive sub just for that, even though I would be giving up some of the reduction in standing waves.






Quote:
Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
It's good that you are basing placement on where they should perform well. As far as capability, -15 MV for 100 dB, 5 hot puts you at 105, a little hotter with redirected bass puts you up to 110, so I think your estimates make sense. In my experience, in a room that is small enough to offer some room gain, you should be flat below 20 Hz until the sub starts to roll off quickly below tune. So a single FV15HP, with even a small amount of boundary and room gain, should be good for 110 dB at 20 Hz. A pair should be good for 115+, and this should put you solid into the low teens and close to 10 Hz. I think you'll be covered.

You are in a similar situation to me....typically not louder than -15 and I want 115 dB capability into the low teens to cover any scenario.

Not trying to dissuade you from considering FV18's, and I think Mike's suggestion of the paper cone version makes sense for TR for movies. It's never a mistake imo to buy a little more sub than you think you need. How likely is it that -15Mv will be the loudest you will listen, ever? Room treatment and high efficiency speakers, if you ever go that route, can make listening closer to reference more and more tolerable. I've been in theaters where reference level was easier on the ears than -10 MV in my room.
It is so easy to just want bigger and bigger, rather than getting the proper sized sub for the needs dictated by the room and listening preferences. It's nice to hear that you too think the FV15HP will be enough for my room and how loud I tend to listen. I think I am leaning that way, unless the FV18 will be significantly more tactile than the FV15HP, if I were to A/B them both playing at -15dB.
Getting advice from the experts here is very useful but ultimately it's up to you to decide what is best for you both in performance/aesthetics and practical considerations.

For example, I went from LV12R to L12 and while I lost a bit of output 19Hz and up, I gained much better SQ, more placement flexibility, and seamless integration with the speakers. Yes, I lost quite a bit of tactile response but for me it was just causing headaches more easily and limiting how loud I could play the sub without it becoming overwhelming.

Ditto with comparing Philharmonic AA+s with ports open to KEF Q150s with ports plugged.

(More size/power/output is not always better, at least with practical considerations... YMMV)

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post #36895 of 40432 Old 02-01-2019, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Schrodinger23 View Post
I think I am leaning that way, unless the FV18 will be significantly more tactile than the FV15HP, if I were to A/B them both playing at -15dB.
I have been very happy with my FV15 pairs for years. They have crazy amount of TR and deep clean bass in my suspended floor theater. With that said, if you can accommodate the FV18 size, I would opt for it as it just costs a bit more than the fv15. Having 2 ports at 12hz is better than just one port plus the FV15 is a ? 8 years old product.
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post #36896 of 40432 Old 02-01-2019, 10:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
I have been very happy with my FV15 pairs for years. They have crazy amount of TR and deep clean bass in my suspended floor theater. With that said, if you can accommodate the FV18 size, I would opt for it as it just costs a bit more than the fv15. Having 2 ports at 12hz is better than just one port plus the FV15 is a ? 8 years old product.
Remember that the FV15HP got a new cabinet with 4" port caps last year and it has less port noise already.
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Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony 77A9G OLED |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |
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Audio is an interesting hobby... In the same place you can find people complaining something a few years old is outdated and no good, and yet vintage gear is worth a premium and sounds better than the new stuff... There may be a good reason I still like and recommend my Rythmik F12's, superhet radios, vintage muscle cars... Somehow I do not feel the need for a $200k sports car to drive to work, nor need a diesel semi to haul groceries home, but no room no matter how small is complete without two 18" subs in the corners. Crazy world.

Video standards change and all that jazz but basic speaker technology evolves much more slowly. We are using a lot of designs that were originally conceived in the 1930's more or less and yet they are still valid and SOTA as implemented today.

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post #36898 of 40432 Old 02-01-2019, 02:43 PM
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Warning to those receiving subwoofers on the East Coast!!

Today we got a phone call and email from a customer who received a L12 DOA. The subwoofer shut down right after the first power ON. The fuse blown and he used the spare fuse and the spare fuse blown again. Brian is 99% sure this is due to condensation. If you live on the East Coast, make sure you put the subwoofer inside the house and wait at least 24 hours for the subwoofer to acclimate before power it ON. This rule applies to any electronics shipped during winter time and mostly when temperatures reach below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not attempt to power ON any electronics right after delivery. Just be patient and wait for the product to get room temperature. This would avoid condensation and failure of the amp.

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Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony 77A9G OLED |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |

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Originally Posted by Schrodinger23 View Post
I don't know. I have a hard time convincing myself to go with the placement of two subs that is not as optimal, when I can make the optimal placement work.
Don't worry too much about there being "rules" to follow with the placement of 2 subs. The way to approach it is to put your first sub in the absolute best location. Then, sub 2 goes in the second best location. It has to be guided by measurement, though. Done right, the second one can only help.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Today we got a phone call and email from a customer who received a L12 DOA. The subwoofer shut down right after the first power ON. The fuse blown and he used the spare fuse and the spare fuse blown again. Brian is 99% sure this is due to condensation. If you live on the East Coast, make sure you put the subwoofer inside the house and wait at least 24 hours for the subwoofer to acclimate before power it ON. This rule applies to any electronics shipped during winter time and mostly when temperatures reach below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Do not attempt to power ON any electronics right after delivery. Just be patient and wait for the product to get room temperature. This would avoid condensation and failure of the amp.
I live in NJ and when I went to work this morning at 7:00am it was -2. With the wind chill it was about -15. There is no way I would take a piece of electronics from that environment into my house and power it up. That's just asking for trouble.
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