Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 1257 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #37681 of 44673 Old 03-28-2019, 12:57 PM
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My Velodyne F-1800R II after almost 21.5 years decided that the amp/servo would fail and make all sorts of random noises. It sounds worse than I do after Taco Tuesday with extra beans. Either way I picked up one G25HP. If it does everything I need I might get another. For those who have picked one up, what are the best settings to put it in for inital setup. This is my only sub in my system with my AV8805 preamp doing all the bass management/crossovers, etc. What settings should I try on my G25HP? Thanks!

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post #37682 of 44673 Old 03-28-2019, 01:20 PM
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Originally Posted by elusiveis View Post
Thinking about joining the Rythmik family. Need input... for my space (see attached pic), (2) 12's now or (1) 15 now and another one down the road? I currently have a budget 10" subwoofer and it does an ok job. I've installed doors in between basement and storage area. So basement area is somewhat isolated. Thanks in advance.
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Originally Posted by elusiveis View Post
This might be the direction I go. I'm going with ported.
If the basement also includes the word "concrete" than dual ported 15's is a wise move. Solid structures consume bass faster than @Gary Bechtold consumes tacos and beans.

 
If you take yourself too seriously expect me to do the exact opposite.

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post #37683 of 44673 Old 03-28-2019, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Gary Bechtold View Post
My Velodyne F-1800R II after almost 21.5 years decided that the amp/servo would fail and make all sorts of random noises. It sounds worse than I do after Taco Tuesday with extra beans. Either way I picked up one G25HP. If it does everything I need I might get another. For those who have picked one up, what are the best settings to put it in for inital setup. This is my only sub in my system with my AV8805 preamp doing all the bass management/crossovers, etc. What settings should I try on my G25HP? Thanks!
Where are you located? I have a G25HP in piano black I am selling. Anyone else interested? I’m in the SF Bay Area.
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post #37684 of 44673 Old 03-28-2019, 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by ianrozzano View Post
Where are you located? I have a G25HP in piano black I am selling. Anyone else interested? I’m in the SF Bay Area.

I'm in the Austin, Texas area. Not ready to buy another one just yet. This was an un-planned purchase. But wow, what a sub!
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PC Audio 5.1 Setup: Denon AVR-X3300W, Monitor Audio Gold GX100 Front/Rear, Monitor Audio Gold GXC 150 Center, Rythmik Audio F12SE
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post #37685 of 44673 Old 03-28-2019, 06:35 PM
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I am seriously thinking to get two of these, to replace my dual PB13;
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/FV18.html

While looking at the features, I saw this. Having some XLR options for the amp;
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/FV18_features.html
Kind of confuse of what amp to get
I would like to daisy chain.. One XLR from my AVP to the first one, then one more XLR cable to the other sub.
From there, daisy chain to other amps use for my TT.

Should I ask for the A370-XLR2 / A370-XLR3 or the standard amplifier is HX1000XLR3?
Also not sure what those option cost, since I could not find a price.

Any help and answers, will be greatly appreciated


Ray

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post #37686 of 44673 Old 03-28-2019, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
I am seriously thinking to get two of these, to replace my dual PB13;
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/FV18.html

While looking at the features, I saw this. Having some XLR options for the amp;
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/FV18_features.html
Kind of confuse of what amp to get
I would like to daisy chain two subs. One XLR from my AVP to the first one, then one more XLR cable from the first sub to the other sub.

Should I ask for the A370-XLR2 / A370-XLR3 or the standard amplifier is HX1000XLR3?
Also not sure what those option cost, since I could not find a price.

Any help and answers, will be greatly appreciated


Ray
Sometimes Rythmik's website can be confusing. As I understand it, there is only one amplifier option, and it has two XLR inputs. You won't be able to daisy chain two subwoofers, you'll have to split it and run two cables. It will be worth it.
Looking at the back of the amp(Which I am using Audioholics picture instead of getting up and looking at the back of my F18) there doesn't seem to be any way to daisy chain an FV18. All inputs, XLR and RCA.
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post #37687 of 44673 Old 03-29-2019, 06:15 AM
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^^^

If you only have one XLR output from your AVR, it is best to use spliter at the output of AVR in order to maintain strong drive on both both branches. Amps like A370XLR2 or H600XLR2 is available for lower power models where it provides a master control function. But for 18" and dual 15", it is not offered as we already have too many SKUs.
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post #37688 of 44673 Old 03-29-2019, 02:37 PM
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Is there any CEA 2010 measurements for the FVX15 available? I haven't been able to find many reviews of it, however there seem to be several for its bigger brother the FV15HP.
Mostly looking at comparing the FVX15 to the Hsu VTF-15H MK2 as it is comparable in price.
Any issues with the amp only being 400 watts?
Any port noise?
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post #37689 of 44673 Old 03-29-2019, 05:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drh3b View Post
Sometimes Rythmik's website can be confusing. As I understand it, there is only one amplifier option, and it has two XLR inputs. You won't be able to daisy chain two subwoofers, you'll have to split it and run two cables. It will be worth it.
Looking at the back of the amp(Which I am using Audioholics picture instead of getting up and looking at the back of my F18) there doesn't seem to be any way to daisy chain an FV18. All inputs, XLR and RCA.

Appreciated, you took the time to include a picture

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post
^^^

If you only have one XLR output from your AVR, it is best to use spliter at the output of AVR in order to maintain strong drive on both both branches. Amps like A370XLR2 or H600XLR2 is available for lower power models where it provides a master control function. But for 18" and dual 15", it is not offered as we already have too many SKUs.
Thank You both for the quick answer, very much appreciated

My Marantz AVP do have two output. The daisy chain was only for the second sub, to the Amps of my TT.
Using a Y-splitter will not be a big deal, to order and to use.


Ray


P.S. I have edited my original post. Since I said, it was from sub one to sub two
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post #37690 of 44673 Old 03-29-2019, 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Starfury View Post
Is there any CEA 2010 measurements for the FVX15 available? I haven't been able to find many reviews of it, however there seem to be several for its bigger brother the FV15HP.

Mostly looking at comparing the FVX15 to the Hsu VTF-15H MK2 as it is comparable in price.

Any issues with the amp only being 400 watts?

Any port noise?

It’s bigger in the sense of more power. Size is the same between the two. Sound characteristics will be the same so what you hear about the fv15hp is true for the lower powered version. The rythmik amp power ratings are under rated. You can make any ported sub make port noise if you push it hard enough especially below its port tune.



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post #37691 of 44673 Old 03-29-2019, 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Starfury View Post
Is there any CEA 2010 measurements for the FVX15 available? I haven't been able to find many reviews of it, however there seem to be several for its bigger brother the FV15HP.
Mostly looking at comparing the FVX15 to the Hsu VTF-15H MK2 as it is comparable in price.
Any issues with the amp only being 400 watts?
Any port noise?
I don't believe there are official 3rd party measurements, but Rythmik's info is pretty accurate: this model would be -3dB from the FV15HP, except it uses a newer, more efficient driver, so only -2.5dB across the spectrum. You can refer to my posts above to get a better idea of how they compare in output and cost. Otherwise, they are the same. Amp power tends to be less with Rythmik amps because they use more efficient drivers and don't need crazy amps to reach the same SPL.

I've actually considered using this new driver in a DIY FV15-type sub. I haven't done the cost breakdown to see what kind of savings could be had, but it's an interesting thought. Could be some serious bang for the buck.

Compared to other brands, I am not sure. The VTF-15H MK2 is a good comparison though, and according to their ratings, actually slightly beat the Rythmik for value. It would be a good matchup.
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post #37692 of 44673 Old 03-29-2019, 09:12 PM
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Hi Folks…thinking about joining the Rhythmik family. Looking for a pair of sealed subs for an upcoming media room for a house under construction. Specifically, sealed subs with high SQ (with an emphasis on clarity, fast decay of sound, and ultra low distortion) and low/no TR. Critical point to address is that while my wife loves to hear well-define bass, she is very sensitive to hearing any distortion of sound at bass frequencies and hates chest punch. Either of those and she will walk out and not come back until the problem is fixed (although I would hear about it on a very, very frequent basis, lol). Over the last 20+ years our basic solution has usually ended up by focusing on mid bass, buying pairs of very expensive sealed subs ($3k+ each) (...Yes, DonH50, I know exactly what you mean when you talk about your previous sub searches ) and to have the audio professionally calibrated.

A technical advisor strongly recommended Seaton SubMersive subs, but after reading the forums I became somewhat concerned about their recent after-sales service. My follow-on research ultimately led to Rhythmik subs.

The new media room will be about 2300 cu ft, sealed. It will be on a suspended wood floor (2nd floor of a wood-frame house). It will be acoustically treated. The media mix will probably be about 50% music, 30% movies and 20% TV. We typically play at lower volumes, around 65-70 dBs with a bump up of +5 dB for bass with our current subs (although when by myself I will often raise the SPL to ~75 dBs, +10 dBs for subs).

From what I can tell I have four basic options with a goal of best SQ at ~70 dB SPL (with peaks of 90-95+ dB) and minimal/no TR. I personally like more weight to the bass than what we currently have (two REL G-2 Gibraltars, single 10”, sealed), but not to the extent of sacrificing other critical elements.

1. Insurance approach: Buy G25s, call it a day. Albeit at a price premium, which may not be the best value to us if we can’t hear an audible improvement in SQ as compared to the other options at the SPLs we normally listen to.
2. Planar approach: Buy F8s, which have planar-like speaker characteristics (we are big fans of Maggies!). However, it probably carries less weight in sound and probably has more potential of an occasional audible THD than the G25s, even at our normal SPLs (my experience says the F8’s THD will probably not be audible at our normal SPL to my wife…particularly if I keep the bass to =< +5 dB...but I’ve been surprised before).
3. Mid-weight approach: Buy F12s, a step up in weight of sound over the F8s, but may not have similar planar-like sound characteristics of the F8s, nor the ultra low THD of the G25s. Also, may have unacceptable level of TR on a suspended wood-frame floor even at our lower SPL (probably not, but???).
4. A Weightier approach: Buy something between the G25s and the F8s/12s, as best compromise for SQ, low THD, min TR and weight at our listening levels. Same concerns as the F12s, just more so.

I apologize for the wordiness. I’d appreciate the thoughts of folks experienced with these subs, particularly on a suspended wood floor. I’ve learned a lot from reading everyone’s comments, which was very informative for framing my knowledge of 20+ years of trial and error on why some things worked well for us under certain circumstances, while others did not. Thanks a bunch!

To DonH50 and Jim Wilson…I have read your comments and reviews with great interest. At what SPL do you normally listening to? Thx.
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post #37693 of 44673 Old 03-29-2019, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by AudioFan810 View Post
Hi Folks…thinking about joining the Rhythmik family. Looking for a pair of sealed subs for an upcoming media room for a house under construction. Specifically, sealed subs with high SQ (with an emphasis on clarity, fast decay of sound, and ultra low distortion) and low/no TR. Critical point to address is that while my wife loves to hear well-define bass, she is very sensitive to hearing any distortion of sound at bass frequencies and hates chest punch. Either of those and she will walk out and not come back until the problem is fixed (although I would hear about it on a very, very frequent basis, lol). Over the last 20+ years our basic solution has usually ended up by focusing on mid bass, buying pairs of very expensive sealed subs ($3k+ each) (...Yes, DonH50, I know exactly what you mean when you talk about your previous sub searches ) and to have the audio professionally calibrated.

A technical advisor strongly recommended Seaton SubMersive subs, but after reading the forums I became somewhat concerned about their recent after-sales service. My follow-on research ultimately led to Rhythmik subs.

The new media room will be about 2300 cu ft, sealed. It will be on a suspended wood floor (2nd floor of a wood-frame house). It will be acoustically treated. The media mix will probably be about 50% music, 30% movies and 20% TV. We typically play at lower volumes, around 65-70 dBs with a bump up of +5 dB for bass with our current subs (although when by myself I will often raise the SPL to ~75 dBs, +10 dBs for subs).

From what I can tell I have four basic options with a goal of best SQ at ~70 dB SPL (with peaks of 90-95+ dB) and minimal/no TR. I personally like more weight to the bass than what we currently have (two REL G-2 Gibraltars, single 10”, sealed), but not to the extent of sacrificing other critical elements.

1. Insurance approach: Buy G25s, call it a day. Albeit at a price premium, which may not be the best value to us if we can’t hear an audible improvement in SQ as compared to the other options at the SPLs we normally listen to.
2. Planar approach: Buy F8s, which have planar-like speaker characteristics (we are big fans of Maggies!). However, it probably carries less weight in sound and probably has more potential of an occasional audible THD than the G25s, even at our normal SPLs (my experience says the F8’s THD will probably not be audible at our normal SPL to my wife…particularly if I keep the bass to =< +5 dB...but I’ve been surprised before).
3. Mid-weight approach: Buy F12s, a step up in weight of sound over the F8s, but may not have similar planar-like sound characteristics of the F8s, nor the ultra low THD of the G25s. Also, may have unacceptable level of TR on a suspended wood-frame floor even at our lower SPL (probably not, but???).
4. A Weightier approach: Buy something between the G25s and the F8s/12s, as best compromise for SQ, low THD, min TR and weight at our listening levels. Same concerns as the F12s, just more so.

I apologize for the wordiness. I’d appreciate the thoughts of folks experienced with these subs, particularly on a suspended wood floor. I’ve learned a lot from reading everyone’s comments, which was very informative for framing my knowledge of 20+ years of trial and error on why some things worked well for us under certain circumstances, while others did not. Thanks a bunch!

To DonH50 and Jim Wilson…I have read your comments and reviews with great interest. At what SPL do you normally listening to? Thx.
If you are afraid the G25HP would be too much, then go with a pair of F18s and call it a day. The F18 is one of the sealed subwoofers with less THD% measured by data-bass.com to date. I have lot of customers running Magico and Magnepan speakers with F18s and all of them talk wonders about it. Looks like you are in San Antonio, just a couple of hours from Austin. Feel, free to come by, check on the subwoofers and bring the F18 home. You have 45 days to try it. If you feel you need/want more output, then return the F18 and get the G25HP instead

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Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik G22 (x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony 77A9G OLED |
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post #37694 of 44673 Old 03-29-2019, 10:20 PM
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Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
If you are afraid the G25HP would be too much, then go with a pair of F18s and call it a day. The F18 is one of the sealed subwoofers with less THD% measured by data-bass.com to date. I have lot of customers running Magico and Magnepan speakers with F18s and all of them talk wonders about it. Looks like you are in San Antonio, just a couple of hours from Austin. Feel, free to come by, check on the subwoofers and bring the F18 home. You have 45 days to try it. If you feel you need/want more output, then return the F18 and get the G25HP instead


I have been following this thread for a short while as I want to know what to get before I need it rather than have buyers remorse when I do. My thought reading the OP was multiple F12s (like Don H), a pair of sealed 18” certainly did not come to mind. I have not heard Magnepan for a long time but have heard Magico recently so know they have to be musical to mesh.


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I have 2*F12s in a 1400 cubic foot, suspended wood floor room and I play at 75-85dB with very detailed, tight bass. When cranked, they can pressurize the room, shake the floor, and make the walls flex. Even for 2300 cubic feet I would suggest those, or two F15s for a little insurance. Just note you'll never use their true capability of reaching 107dB at 20Hz paired together. At least, not without divorce papers
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post #37696 of 44673 Old 03-29-2019, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by jima4a View Post
I have been following this thread for a short while as I want to know what to get before I need it rather than have buyers remorse when I do. My thought reading the OP was multiple F12s (like Don H), a pair of sealed 18” certainly did not come to mind. I have not heard Magnepan for a long time but have heard Magico recently so know they have to be musical to mesh.


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Magico S5 MKIIs + F12s:



Magico Q3s + F18s:

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Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik G22 (x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony 77A9G OLED |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |
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post #37697 of 44673 Old 03-30-2019, 06:26 AM
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[quote=enricoclaudio;57826732]Magico S5 MKIIs + F12s:


Magico Q3s + F18s:


Enrioclaudio...thanks. The questions I have of F18s (or any other sub) vs G25s is there a difference in sound quality between the two and is there a difference in THD?

Thanks!
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post #37698 of 44673 Old 03-30-2019, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioFan810 View Post
Hi Folks…thinking about joining the Rhythmik family. Looking for a pair of sealed subs for an upcoming media room for a house under construction. Specifically, sealed subs with high SQ (with an emphasis on clarity, fast decay of sound, and ultra low distortion) and low/no TR. Critical point to address is that while my wife loves to hear well-define bass, she is very sensitive to hearing any distortion of sound at bass frequencies and hates chest punch. Either of those and she will walk out and not come back until the problem is fixed (although I would hear about it on a very, very frequent basis, lol). Over the last 20+ years our basic solution has usually ended up by focusing on mid bass, buying pairs of very expensive sealed subs ($3k+ each) (...Yes, DonH50, I know exactly what you mean when you talk about your previous sub searches ) and to have the audio professionally calibrated.

The new media room will be about 2300 cu ft, sealed. It will be on a suspended wood floor (2nd floor of a wood-frame house). It will be acoustically treated. The media mix will probably be about 50% music, 30% movies and 20% TV. We typically play at lower volumes, around 65-70 dBs with a bump up of +5 dB for bass with our current subs (although when by myself I will often raise the SPL to ~75 dBs, +10 dBs for subs).

Hi,

I will let some of the other folks advise you on the specific Rythmik model to get, but I want to make some observations about the overall problem you are outlining. First, there are two major types of tactile response: mid-bass chest punch, and low-bass rumbling, thudding sensations. Chest punch requires two components, working in combination.

First, there must be some sudden percussive content, such as the strike of a kick drum, or a bass guitar or upright bass chord, in about the 50Hz to 120Hz range. That range is where most people feel chest punch sensations most strongly, and both subwoofers and competent speakers can contribute to those sensations. There is some research to indicate that most people feel the chest punch sensation most strongly in about the 60Hz to 70Hz range. (Some subwoofer makers add pre-programmed PEQ, centered on 63Hz, for that reason.)

Second, in addition to sudden percussive content, there must be sufficient SPL to convey the sensation. That SPL can be the product of either total SPL, or subwoofer boost, or of both in combination. Where I am going with this is, that if your wife hates chest punch, you simply won't be able to use as much master volume or subwoofer boost, irrespective of the subwoofer model you choose, because all of the subwoofers you are considering will be able to produce perfectly adequate mid-bass volumes in a 2300^3 room.

What you may need to do, if this is a real problem for you, is to try to define where in the frequency range your wife feels that sensation most strongly (60Hz to 70Hz; 70Hz to 80Hz, or whatever) and then implement some PEQ to be able to pull down the SPL in that specific range, when you are listening to the right content. Gunshot scenes in the John Wick movies would be an excellent example of where most people would be feeling strong chest punch sensations.

Implementing some independent PEQ might involve obtaining REW, to measure your frequency response, and a miniDSP to tailor it a little, if you were serious about doing this. But, I wanted to be sure you understand that chest punch is a mid-bass phenomenon caused by the combination of percussive content and mid-bass SPL.

Low-bass TR (typically under about 30 or 35Hz) is caused by a combination of several factors, including low-bass SPL. Sealed subs won't inherently produce quite as much low-bass TR as equivalent ported subs will, for several reasons. But, the suspended wood floor will enhance the low-bass tactile sensations, such as the rumble of an earthquake or a train, or the thudding sensation of the footfall of a T-Rex. (The floor won't affect chest punch. That is strictly an airborne sensation.)

If your wife is also highly aware of, and uncomfortable with, low-bass tactile sensations, then this is one of those times that I might recommend going with less powerful rather than more powerful subwoofers. I always like the idea of having more low-bass SPL on tap than someone can ever actually use. But, this might be an exception to that general rule, if you are deliberately trying to avoid having much low-bass TR.

The better Rythmik models might have sufficient user-adjustablity to allow you to back-off some of the more overt low-bass for those listening sessions where your wife wants to have less low-bass TR. If so, getting larger subwoofers would still be a good idea for those times when you are alone and really want to open them up a little. You might also consider putting something, such as an Auralex SubDude, under the subwoofers you ultimately select. Some people find that decoupling the subwoofer cabinet from a suspended wood floor helps a bit.

I think that Rythmik sealed subwoofers will be an excellent choice from both a quality and a service standpoint. But, even with low-distortion sealed subwoofers, the TR issue is a little different from the way that you might have been thinking of it initially. I hope that this explanation helps!

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 03-30-2019 at 08:17 AM.
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post #37699 of 44673 Old 03-30-2019, 11:16 AM
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[quote=AudioFan810;57827536]
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Magico S5 MKIIs + F12s:


Magico Q3s + F18s:


Enrioclaudio...thanks. The questions I have of F18s (or any other sub) vs G25s is there a difference in sound quality between the two and is there a difference in THD?

Thanks!
Been following along here and would just like to comment on the F18 and why I choose it to mate with my existing subs. I care about distortion and clean articulate bass above all and that reason is simple "you will hear and perceive more bass" and that's regardless of the frequency its asked to play, yes tympani strikes , bass guitar etc.. are what most focus on regarding music but resonance, harmonic structure and decay from piano hammer strikes and the blat from brass are all with in the realm a sub must perform and in my book not hair less than the main speakers it (one sub) or they (two subs) augment. I never feel the need to comment on the movie side of things regarding bass as the same requirements I place on music is the same for movies and man oh man does the F18 deliver in spades its just that good

Good luck on your search
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Agreed. When it came out I took the opportunity to upgrade my copy of the original to 4k Blu ray. Watching both back to back is, well, exhilarating. Extraordinary movie making.
Ha! I just flat out stop denying and lying to myself after watching it over the weekend that nothing touches BR2049 ![/QUOTE]

Decided to watch 2049 again. Granted I run my subs 3 db hot after running Audyssey, but I just can't imagine what the higher end subs would do in my room, approx 3000 cuft. Scary enough with my two L22s. Listening at only -12 mv.
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post #37701 of 44673 Old 03-30-2019, 06:25 PM
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Magico Q3s + F18s:


Love this picture, with the two bombs in each corner.
Must be from a present or ex-Air Force Armor


Ray
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I will let some of the other folks advise you on the specific Rythmik model to get, but I want to make some observations about the overall problem you are outlining. First, there are two major types of tactile response: mid-bass chest punch, and low-bass rumbling, thudding sensations. Chest punch requires two components, working in combination.


Regards,
Mike

Hi Mike...thanks a bunch! Good info and excellent points! I had actually written a more extensive response back to you, but when I hit the submit button it went somewhere into the never, never land . Bottomline, you gave me a lot of good info to digest and I really appreciate it!

Thanks,
Ralph
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[quote=audiofan1;57828756]
Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioFan810 View Post

Been following along here and would just like to comment on the F18 and why I choose it to mate with my existing subs. I care about distortion and clean articulate bass above all and that reason is simple "you will hear and perceive more bass" and that's regardless of the frequency its asked to play, yes tympani strikes , bass guitar etc.. are what most focus on regarding music but resonance, harmonic structure and decay from piano hammer strikes and the blat from brass are all with in the realm a sub must perform and in my book not hair less than the main speakers it (one sub) or they (two subs) augment. I never feel the need to comment on the movie side of things regarding bass as the same requirements I place on music is the same for movies and man oh man does the F18 deliver in spades its just that good

Good luck on your search

Hi Audiofan1...thanks a bunch for your thoughts. We also like to follow that same concept, the subs need to work well for us in music. The sound from there will naturally follow to meet our needs in movies.

May I ask what SPL do you normally listen to for music or movies, including your subs? If I remember right from the Triad forum I believe you have or had Platinum LCRs?

Thanks,
Ralph
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post #37704 of 44673 Old 03-30-2019, 07:22 PM
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Love this picture, with the two bombs in each corner.
Must be from a present or ex-Air Force Armor


Ray
Did you see what are the stands for the bombs? A pair of JL Audio E112s Those are the subwoofers he replaced with the F18s but he kept them as a bombs stands

Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio - Dialing In Rythmik Audio Subwoofers - REW for macOS
Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik G22 (x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony 77A9G OLED |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |
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post #37705 of 44673 Old 03-30-2019, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Did you see what are the stands for the bombs? A pair of JL Audio E112s Those are the subwoofers he replaced with the F18s but he kept them as a bombs stands

Cannot think of a better stands


Ray
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post #37706 of 44673 Old 03-31-2019, 05:41 AM
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Hi folks, first I want to apologize for my english... I'm french, nobody's perfect !
I would like to ask you to help me for choosing a subwoofer. I'm about to order a Rythmik sub. I tried to ordered a PSA first (S3611) but the British importer for Europe took my money for 2 months and after said his email order has been lost and he was waiting for Brexit... After a complete refund I decided to go for a brand more concerned by their costumer (even if they are French )

Rythmik is famous for accuracy and quality and always answering costumers (congrats Enrico)

I think buying a G25HP (or FV25HP if you help me with my decision). I have B&W 802D3, HTM1D3 and in wall B&W speakers for surround and atmos. Anthem AVM60 and Classe monoblocks (CTM600). I sold my dual velodyne DD+12 today. My room is 4 X 10 (dining room + home cinema) and the listening zone 4 X 5 and sitting at 3 m from the speakers. Sloping Ceiling 2,7 m to 4m.

I have 1 zone there the bass is clean and flat from 15 Hz to 80Hz, so I used to stack the Velodynes.

50% Home Cinema 50 % music

I want to improve my last setup particularly in Home cinema but still want accurate bass for music (hate sound when phase is not aligned), would you go for G25HP or FV25HP ?

Thank you for your help

B&W 802 D3 Classe CTM600 ANTHEM AVM60 Rythmik FV25HP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOSOSA View Post
Hi folks, first I want to apologize for my english... I'm french, nobody's perfect !
I would like to ask you to help me for choosing a subwoofer. I'm about to order a Rythmik sub. I tried to ordered a PSA first (S3611) but the British importer for Europe took my money for 2 months and after said his email order has been lost and he was waiting for Brexit... After a complete refund I decided to go for a brand more concerned by their costumer (even if they are French )

Rythmik is famous for accuracy and quality and always answering costumers (congrats Enrico)

I think buying a G25HP (or FV25HP if you help me with my decision). I have B&W 802D3, HTM1D3 and in wall B&W speakers for surround and atmos. Anthem AVM60 and Classe monoblocks (CTM600). I sold my dual velodyne DD+12 today. My room is 4 X 10 (dining room + home cinema) and the listening zone 4 X 5 and sitting at 3 m from the speakers. Sloping Ceiling 2,7 m to 4m.

I have 1 zone there the bass is clean and flat from 15 Hz to 80Hz, so I used to stack the Velodynes.

50% Home Cinema 50 % music

I want to improve my last setup particularly in Home cinema but still want accurate bass for music (hate sound when phase is not aligned), would you go for G25HP or FV25HP ?

Thank you for your help

The FV25HP would be a big improvement for Home Cinema from what you had before.
The G25HP would be an improvement, but a more subtle one.
From what you're saying I go with the FV25HP. Your overall space is large enough for ported.
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post #37708 of 44673 Old 03-31-2019, 08:06 AM
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I finally took the plunge and bought a calibrated umik and learned how to run REW at a beginners level.

I went through and checked the levels to see how close my Yamaha got to the 75db mark. It got the speakers right on, but the sub (FV18)....let’s just say a little hot.....18db hot. On top of that I was boosting it 6db as I was thinking it was calibrated correctly.

No wonder my house felt like it was going to implode when watching movies. Lol. I generally don’t go louder than -13.

After trial and error, and my personal preference, I am now running it 13db hot for movies(10db through the gain on the sub and 3db through the sub trim in avr) and limit the volume knob to -13 and it sounds perfect. It now sounds much more controlled, but I admit I do miss the insane house trembling bass. Lol. The sub never once made any funny sounds or seemed stressed when I was running super hot.

Gonna be ordering a second FV18 in a few months. That’s when things will get crazy. I’ve got a MiniDSP 2x4hd and a WI-Dg now and it needs to be put to work. Lol

Moral of the story, if your in the fence about it, just get a mic and download REW. It is an eye opener for sure. It really isn’t as difficult as it sounds when you read about it.
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post #37709 of 44673 Old 03-31-2019, 08:32 AM
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[quote=AudioFan810;57830514]
Quote:
Originally Posted by audiofan1 View Post


Hi Audiofan1...thanks a bunch for your thoughts. We also like to follow that same concept, the subs need to work well for us in music. The sound from there will naturally follow to meet our needs in movies.

May I ask what SPL do you normally listen to for music or movies, including your subs? If I remember right from the Triad forum I believe you have or had Platinum LCRs?

Thanks,
Ralph
Hi Ralph, I use Boston Acoustics and the listing levels primarily are about the same ball park as you but movie nights and a few disc I have will prompt me to raise levels as high as reference (0 on the volume scale) with an 3-4.5 db sub bump to the subs. i find every recording has a sweet spot on the volume dial but late night listing will be around -28 on the volume scale.

Jeff
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post #37710 of 44673 Old 03-31-2019, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsc79 View Post
I finally took the plunge and bought a calibrated umik and learned how to run REW at a beginners level.

I went through and checked the levels to see how close my Yamaha got to the 75db mark. It got the speakers right on, but the sub (FV18)....let’s just say a little hot.....18db hot. On top of that I was boosting it 6db as I was thinking it was calibrated correctly.

No wonder my house felt like it was going to implode when watching movies. Lol. I generally don’t go louder than -13.

After trial and error, and my personal preference, I am now running it 13db hot for movies(10db through the gain on the sub and 3db through the sub trim in avr) and limit the volume knob to -13 and it sounds perfect. It now sounds much more controlled, but I admit I do miss the insane house trembling bass. Lol. The sub never once made any funny sounds or seemed stressed when I was running super hot.

Gonna be ordering a second FV18 in a few months. That’s when things will get crazy. I’ve got a MiniDSP 2x4hd and a WI-Dg now and it needs to be put to work. Lol

Moral of the story, if your in the fence about it, just get a mic and download REW. It is an eye opener for sure. It really isn’t as difficult as it sounds when you read about it.
YPAO has set the sub somewhat hot in the past for me, but definitely not 18dB. I would make sure you turn off YPAO volume, Adaptive DRC, extra bass, etc. Check for any other settings in the AVR that could boost bass and remember that measuring the LFE channel (ch 4 HDMI) in REW will be 10dB higher than the other channels.

I haven't had YPAO run things more than 3-6dB hot when measuring in REW. I have a strong feeling that you have some settings on that boost bass in the Yamaha AVR and also should double check your measurement technique in REW.

Hope this helps, just my 2 cents.

BTW, congrats on an awesome sub that can handle such high output effortlessly.
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