Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 1265 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #37921 of 39069 Old 04-17-2019, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by BluesDaddy56 View Post
Is there are price sheet for these? What I see on the website regarding DIY is pretty sparse. What's the difference between the DS1510 and the DS1510CI? Honestly, I'm thinking the 18 would be overkill. This would be used in my living room with a pair of Magnepan MMGs and I rarely even play. Just wanting to have something to use the cabinet with and fill in the bass when I do.
Here is the pricing for the 15” kits. http://rythmikaudio.com/DS1500ci.html

The DS1510CI is the DS1510 driver with amp and all connections. If you aren’t needing higher output the DS1501CI kit should work fine I would think. FWIW I believe the actual driver of that kit would be the newer DS1502. I built one of the early Rythmik sealed 15” kits (basically the DS1501CI) and loved it (2007). It is still sounding great in my brothers sound system.
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post #37922 of 39069 Old 04-17-2019, 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by tvuong View Post
> = better, no?
Then maybe it should be 1502 > 1510?

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post #37923 of 39069 Old 04-17-2019, 09:02 PM
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Ds1520>ds1510>ds1502

Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio - Dialing In Rythmik Audio Subwoofers
Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | 92" Stewart ST100 | Sony VW295ES |
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post #37924 of 39069 Old 04-17-2019, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Ds1520>ds1510>ds1502
Okay, instead of these symbols that don't really tell us anything, how about some information regarding the differences between the drivers? No one has yet addressed the fact that the FVX15 page describes the DS1502 as an improvement over the DS1510. It specifically attributes improvements to the driver:

"We also develop a new DS1502 driver is two stacked 25mm magnets to improve excursion limit. Its physical dimension is exactly same as FV15HP. As a result, one can expect the full benefit of FV15HP design albeit with 2.5db less output."

Any information would be appreciated.

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Last edited by Soulburner; 04-17-2019 at 11:35 PM.
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post #37925 of 39069 Old 04-18-2019, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
Okay, instead of these symbols that don't really tell us anything, how about some information regarding the differences between the drivers? No one has yet addressed the fact that the FVX15 page describes the DS1502 as an improvement over the DS1510. It specifically attributes improvements to the driver:

"We also develop a new DS1502 driver is two stacked 25mm magnets to improve excursion limit. Its physical dimension is exactly same as FV15HP. As a result, one can expect the full benefit of FV15HP design albeit with 2.5db less output."

Any information would be appreciated.
Where in that sentence are you reading that the DS1502 driver is an improvement over the DS1510? The sentence you are quoting is talking about the difference between the FVX15 and the FV15HP and it clearly says that the FV15HP has 2.5dB more output than the FVX15.

The DS1502 is the same DS1501 but with an improved motor. DS1502 has the same power handling capabilities of DS1501 which is 500 watts while the DS1510 can handle up to 800 watts. The DS1501 has been discontinued and replaced by DS1502.
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Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | 92" Stewart ST100 | Sony VW295ES |
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post #37926 of 39069 Old 04-18-2019, 03:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Eric HA View Post
Here is the pricing for the 15” kits. http://rythmikaudio.com/DS1500ci.html

The DS1510CI is the DS1510 driver with amp and all connections. If you aren’t needing higher output the DS1501CI kit should work fine I would think. FWIW I believe the actual driver of that kit would be the newer DS1502. I built one of the early Rythmik sealed 15” kits (basically the DS1501CI) and loved it (2007). It is still sounding great in my brothers sound system.
Got it, thanks. I confess the page is a bit confusing on what is a "kit", etc., but I think I'm clear now. I'd probably go ahead and do the DS1510 just because of the "what if" buyer's remorse factor.

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post #37927 of 39069 Old 04-18-2019, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesDaddy56 View Post
Got it, thanks. I confess the page is a bit confusing on what is a "kit", etc., but I think I'm clear now. I'd probably go ahead and do the DS1510 just because of the "what if" buyer's remorse factor.

having both the fv15hp and fv25hp I wouldnt be worried about the drivers. both my subs perform albeit I have fv15hp in 2 port mode which I actually prefer over 1 port after lots of listening.
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post #37928 of 39069 Old 04-18-2019, 04:04 PM
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If you pay close attention to the drivers, the higher end one (1520/1510) has 1 piece cone where as the 1502/1501 has 2 piece cones connected close to the center of the 15” cone.
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post #37929 of 39069 Old 04-18-2019, 05:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Where in that sentence are you reading that the DS1502 driver is an improvement over the DS1510? The sentence you are quoting is talking about the difference between the FVX15 and the FV15HP and it clearly says that the FV15HP has 2.5dB more output than the FVX15.
That paragraph compares the FVX15 to the FV15HP. In that context, the sentence implies that the driver is new and improved (as compared the FV15HP mentioned). If that is not the case, maybe some tweaking is called for. Perhaps make it clear that it is an update to the DS1501 (not mentioned). One would not know this without discussion here on AVS or unless someone was already familiar with the drivers; but it wouldn't be clear to someone new.

Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
The DS1502 is the same DS1501 but with an improved motor. DS1502 has the same power handling capabilities of DS1501 which is 500 watts while the DS1510 can handle up to 800 watts. The DS1501 has been discontinued and replaced by DS1502.
Thanks. That is much more informative than ">"

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post #37930 of 39069 Old 04-18-2019, 06:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BluesDaddy56 View Post
Got it, thanks. I confess the page is a bit confusing on what is a "kit", etc., but I think I'm clear now. I'd probably go ahead and do the DS1510 just because of the "what if" buyer's remorse factor.
that's what i ended up doing... the default ds1510/H600PEQ3 servo amp, sealed, in about 3.4 cu.ft. old sonotube enclosure.

here is the rew plot, after audyssey, rythmik peq switch off, it goes plenty low in a smaller room, and the sound is clean... i was fighting a bad null at about 38hz, this was probably the best location in the room.
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post #37931 of 39069 Old 04-18-2019, 08:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
That paragraph compares the FVX15 to the FV15HP. In that context, the sentence implies that the driver is new and improved (as compared the FV15HP mentioned). If that is not the case, maybe some tweaking is called for. Perhaps make it clear that it is an update to the DS1501 (not mentioned). One would not know this without discussion here on AVS or unless someone was already familiar with the drivers; but it wouldn't be clear to someone new.
I jist read the exact same thing you did and didn't come away with that conclusion. The only comparators were to enclosure size and output. The former was identical and the latter favored the FV15HP.

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post #37932 of 39069 Old 04-18-2019, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Madmax67 View Post
I jist read the exact same thing you did and didn't come away with that conclusion. The only comparators were to enclosure size and output. The former was identical and the latter favored the FV15HP.
It's that it doesn't compare it to the 1501 driver. The only comparison is to the FV15HP. "New" and "Improved" are used. But compared to what?

The only way one is clear on that paragraph is if one already has knowledge of the drivers. The "back story", if you will. A new customer doesn't, so it's lacking context. Your knowledge filled in the context.

I didn't have knowledge about the drivers, but am trying to build on that.

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post #37933 of 39069 Old 04-18-2019, 09:08 PM
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Is is okay to place a sub on its side? Does it impact performance or durability in any way?

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post #37934 of 39069 Old 04-18-2019, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
It's that it doesn't compare it to the 1501 driver. The only comparison is to the FV15HP. "New" and "Improved" are used. But compared to what?
That was the implication with the "new" reference in the first sentence. Could the paragraph have used a bit better transition yes but its clear if you actually just read the words in it.


Quote:
The only way one is clear on that paragraph is if one already has knowledge of the drivers. The "back story", if you will. A new customer doesn't, so it's lacking context. Your knowledge filled in the context.
Respectfully I dont know jack ***t about any of those drivers. I just simply read it instead of reading into it too much. To be completely honest I love my Rythmik's but i don't follow this owners thread much on the nuts and bolts stuff anymore because their product line is mostly out of my budget nowadays and I'm less into chasing bass than I thought I was.


Quote:
I didn't have knowledge about the drivers, but am trying to build on that.
Then just ask Enrico or Brian either directly here or in PM about the drivers. No copy pasting of paragraphs required.





Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
Okay, instead of these symbols that don't really tell us anything, how about some information regarding the differences between the drivers? No one has yet addressed the fact that the FVX15 page describes the DS1502 as an improvement over the DS1510. It specifically attributes improvements to the driver:

"We also develop a new DS1502 driver is two stacked 25mm magnets to improve excursion limit. Its physical dimension is exactly same as FV15HP. As a result, one can expect the full benefit of FV15HP design albeit with 2.5db less output."
First things first , stating that what you perceived something to imply or mean as a fact is a bit of a stretch.

Secondly the driver improvements were stated to be new for that model in the first sentence. The period at the end and the start of a new sentence comparing the enclosure size and output relative to the FV15HP are seperate and apart from the first statement but fall in line with a similar controlling idea.

I'll give you this. There's a lot that a good english major could do to help clean up the writing on Rythmik's website and I'm not talking spelling or grammar. There's a real art to converting complicated thoughts to print in an easy to understand manner.
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post #37935 of 39069 Old 04-19-2019, 07:31 AM
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For those of you who own a ported 15" rythmik sub (aka FVX15 or FV15HP), I'm curious what the exact width measurement is? The site lists 18" but I want to know if it's 18.00 or if it's slightly over/under. I've got a very tight spot to fit the sub between a counch and the wall (it's the best bass spot and also only place I can put a sub, so that's a lucky coincidence) and I'm going to build a mockup box to ensure I can fit one before I buy.

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post #37936 of 39069 Old 04-19-2019, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
It's that it doesn't compare it to the 1501 driver. The only comparison is to the FV15HP. "New" and "Improved" are used. But compared to what?

The only way one is clear on that paragraph is if one already has knowledge of the drivers. The "back story", if you will. A new customer doesn't, so it's lacking context. Your knowledge filled in the context.

I didn't have knowledge about the drivers, but am trying to build on that.
Sure I can make it clear by removing mentioning of DS1502 completely. Sometimes too much information can lead to further confusion. But it does say:

"As a result, one can expect the full benefit of FV15HP design albeit with 2.5db less output. " which means FVX15 still has less output than FV15HP.
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post #37937 of 39069 Old 04-19-2019, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GoZags13 View Post
For those of you who own a ported 15" rythmik sub (aka FVX15 or FV15HP), I'm curious what the exact width measurement is? The site lists 18" but I want to know if it's 18.00 or if it's slightly over/under. I've got a very tight spot to fit the sub between a counch and the wall (it's the best bass spot and also only place I can put a sub, so that's a lucky coincidence) and I'm going to build a mockup box to ensure I can fit one before I buy.
Both of my FV15HP's are 18" wide
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post #37938 of 39069 Old 04-20-2019, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Rythmik View Post
Sure I can make it clear by removing mentioning of DS1502 completely. Sometimes too much information can lead to further confusion. But it does say:

"As a result, one can expect the full benefit of FV15HP design albeit with 2.5db less output. " which means FVX15 still has less output than FV15HP.
Never disputed that - there are 200 fewer watts feeding the motor.

You make 2 things - drivers and amps. I think it's fine to mention the driver - in fact, that's where your business started, and it helps to relate the finished sub to the patented products going into them. Just a little bit of extra context would help.

Your products attract a lot of techie-types, and your site is a wealth of information for them. It is far better than most companies out there. You are right in that providing too much information can open the door to confusion. It's tricky to find the right balance, but don't just go removing stuff just yet

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post #37939 of 39069 Old 04-21-2019, 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by nonstopdoc1 View Post
Is is okay to place a sub on its side? Does it impact performance or durability in any way?
Placing a Rythmik sub on its side won't affect durability::longevity. It may impact performance, due to boundary conditions (driver getting really close to wall:floor).
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post #37940 of 39069 Old 04-22-2019, 02:40 PM
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@Rythmik @enricoclaudio Hi there. Love my F18, but considering planning for a DIY ported paper-cone sub.


Do you sell 18" paper cone / amp kits? And does it have to be ported?
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post #37941 of 39069 Old 04-22-2019, 04:17 PM
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Ok guys I have some questions ?
So hears the deal.

I have 3 criteria
1. use both L/R speakers and Sub
2. Use pure direct as it's sounds far better to me
3. I have to be able to stream all my content on spotify or tidal
4. Would like to add an amp to system

I would like to use pure direct and use the L12 sub for 80h and lower at the same time.
So my Pioneer vsx 831 in my new music room does use the sub when in pure direct "BUT" it does NOT have pre outs so I cant use and amp. And I would like to get an amp as I'm looking to get the most out of my Focal Aria 906 bookshelf speakers.
My denon x3400h that's in my theater room could be swamped out to the music room but does not do pure direct with sub but it has pre outs so I could use an amp with it.

It was suggested that I run my sub to my speakers using my denon so I could use pure direct on the denon but I dont' believe I have the proper connects on the L12 to be able to do this.

So Im trying to figure out my what my best options are based on my 4 point criteria above.

1. Use my Pioneer and just do with no amp and just suck it up and accept this is the best sound I'm going to get. I just wanted the amp so I could get the most out of my speakers I dont really need the power I dont listen really loud.
2. Use the Denon and Figure out how to hook up my speakers to my sub so that I can use pure direct and be able to use the sub all at the same time and get an amp in the upcoming days.
3. Buy new equipment.
4. Send my current Rythmik sub back as Iv only had it 3 days and get a different Rythmik sub that has the proper speaker jacks so I can hook them up. I dont' want to trade the sub for a different model unless I have to because Im very happy with it's performance and price. But I will do what I have to.
I don't quite understand exactly what is needed to hook a sub up to speakers so I can bypass my avr so I can use pure direct and have the sub.

I hope I didn't confuse the crap out of everyone with all of that. I'm trying to understand and figure this all out..
I'm providing a photo of my sub on the left and the sub I think I may need to be able to do this on the right.........
Any advice or help would be appreciated. Thank you for all your help.
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post #37942 of 39069 Old 04-22-2019, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Captain Crunch View Post
Ok guys I have some questions ?
So hears the deal.

I have 3 criteria
1. use both L/R speakers and Sub
2. Use pure direct as it's sounds far better to me
3. I have to be able to stream all my content on spotify or tidal
4. Would like to add an amp to system

I would like to use pure direct and use the L12 sub for 80h and lower at the same time.
So my Pioneer vsx 831 in my new music room does use the sub when in pure direct "BUT" it does NOT have pre outs so I cant use and amp. And I would like to get an amp as I'm looking to get the most out of my Focal Aria 906 bookshelf speakers.
My denon x3400h that's in my theater room could be swamped out to the music room but does not do pure direct with sub but it has pre outs so I could use an amp with it.

It was suggested that I run my sub to my speakers using my denon so I could use pure direct on the denon but I dont' believe I have the proper connects on the L12 to be able to do this.

So Im trying to figure out my what my best options are based on my 4 point criteria above.

1. Use my Pioneer and just do with no amp and just suck it up and accept this is the best sound I'm going to get. I just wanted the amp so I could get the most out of my speakers I dont really need the power I dont listen really loud.
2. Use the Denon and Figure out how to hook up my speakers to my sub so that I can use pure direct and be able to use the sub all at the same time and get an amp in the upcoming days.
3. Buy new equipment.
4. Send my current Rythmik sub back as Iv only had it 3 days and get a different Rythmik sub that has the proper speaker jacks so I can hook them up. I dont' want to trade the sub for a different model unless I have to because Im very happy with it's performance and price. But I will do what I have to.
I don't quite understand exactly what is needed to hook a sub up to speakers so I can bypass my avr so I can use pure direct and have the sub.

I hope I didn't confuse the crap out of everyone with all of that. I'm trying to understand and figure this all out..
I'm providing a photo of my sub on the left and the sub I think I may need to be able to do this on the right.........
Any advice or help would be appreciated. Thank you for all your help.

I would research a new integrated amp or avr...thats just me tho.

Power: Marantz sr7008, NAD C 275Bee x 2, Video: Oppo 103, Samsung 75un6300
Speakers: Focal aria 948, Focal cc900, Klipsch synergy KSF 10.5 Subs: Rythmik FV25HP, Rythmik FV15HP
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post #37943 of 39069 Old 04-22-2019, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Captain Crunch View Post
Ok guys I have some questions ?
So hears the deal.

I have 3 criteria
1. use both L/R speakers and Sub
2. Use pure direct as it's sounds far better to me
3. I have to be able to stream all my content on spotify or tidal
4. Would like to add an amp to system

I would like to use pure direct and use the L12 sub for 80h and lower at the same time.
So my Pioneer vsx 831 in my new music room does use the sub when in pure direct "BUT" it does NOT have pre outs so I cant use and amp. And I would like to get an amp as I'm looking to get the most out of my Focal Aria 906 bookshelf speakers.
My denon x3400h that's in my theater room could be swamped out to the music room but does not do pure direct with sub but it has pre outs so I could use an amp with it.

It was suggested that I run my sub to my speakers using my denon so I could use pure direct on the denon but I dont' believe I have the proper connects on the L12 to be able to do this.

So Im trying to figure out my what my best options are based on my 4 point criteria above.

1. Use my Pioneer and just do with no amp and just suck it up and accept this is the best sound I'm going to get. I just wanted the amp so I could get the most out of my speakers I dont really need the power I dont listen really loud.
2. Use the Denon and Figure out how to hook up my speakers to my sub so that I can use pure direct and be able to use the sub all at the same time and get an amp in the upcoming days.
3. Buy new equipment.
4. Send my current Rythmik sub back as Iv only had it 3 days and get a different Rythmik sub that has the proper speaker jacks so I can hook them up. I dont' want to trade the sub for a different model unless I have to because Im very happy with it's performance and price. But I will do what I have to.
I don't quite understand exactly what is needed to hook a sub up to speakers so I can bypass my avr so I can use pure direct and have the sub.

I hope I didn't confuse the crap out of everyone with all of that. I'm trying to understand and figure this all out..
I'm providing a photo of my sub on the left and the sub I think I may need to be able to do this on the right.........
Any advice or help would be appreciated. Thank you for all your help.
Just use stereo mode and turn audyssey off. Doubt you could/can hear a difference.
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post #37944 of 39069 Old 04-23-2019, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by kdaq View Post
@Rythmik @enricoclaudio Hi there. Love my F18, but considering planning for a DIY ported paper-cone sub.
Do you sell 18" paper cone / amp kits? And does it have to be ported?
For sealed subs, we do recommend metal cone. The paper cone is best with ported configuration. Ported subs have less stress to the cone.

We do sell 18" kits. Please email us for pricing.
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post #37945 of 39069 Old 04-23-2019, 12:11 PM
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I'm interested in the F15HP with H600PEQ3 and using the high level inputs together
with the RCA line ins to allow the option of running my speakers on full-range and then low passing the subwoofer to blend for 2-channel applications and lowering/raising the subwoofer/LFE output level on my receiver feeding the F15HP RCA lines ins to blend for multichannel applications (ex 5.1 music and movies).

To be clear I would want to run my front speakers as usual from my Denon receiver using banana plugs and then also use the bare wire holes to get the simultaneous feed from those receiver speaker terminals to the F15HP high level inputs.

Does this sound like a reasonable expectation and/or use case scenario?

Will the F15HP high level inputs present a very high impedance to the receiver speaker terminals so the load from both feeds presented to the receiver isn't undesirable?

Last edited by dabl; 04-23-2019 at 01:07 PM.
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post #37946 of 39069 Old 04-23-2019, 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dabl View Post
I'm interested in the F15HP with H600PEQ3 and using the high level inputs together
with the RCA line ins to allow the option of running my speakers on full-range and then low passing the subwoofer to blend for 2-channel applications and lowering/raising the subwoofer/LFE output level on my receiver feeding the F15HP RCA lines ins to blend for multichannel applications (ex 5.1 music and movies).

To be clear I would want to run my front speakers as usual from my Denon receiver using banana plugs and then also use the bare wire holes to get the simultaneous feed from those receiver speaker terminals to the F15HP high level inputs.

Does this sound like a reasonable expectation and/or use case scenario?

Will the F15HP high level inputs present a very high impedance to the receiver speaker terminals so the load from both feeds presented to the receiver isn't undesirable?
To me, you are making your life and connections. Difficult for no reason.
I would just use the banana plug connections, as usual from your AVR to your speakers.
And from your AVR Sub Out, use an RCA connection to the Sub Input.

From your AVR settings choices, you still can run your Speaker full range.
And choose what ever frequency point cut off you decide, and achieve your end goal.
Same for the LFE output.

I got towers speakers, and still cross them at 80Hz.
I prefer letting the sub/s do what they were design do, same as my towers. Since crossover are not a brick wall, and sound better that way to me using the subs for low end. After trying 40-60Hz cut off point, on the speakers.
And use the AVP to do all the settings and crossover point for the speakers and subs. After all, this what it is design to do and the same can be said for an AVR


Ray

Last edited by darthray; 04-23-2019 at 06:48 PM.
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post #37947 of 39069 Old 04-24-2019, 05:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
To me, you are making your life and connections. Difficult for no reason.
I would just use the banana plug connections, as usual from your AVR to your speakers.
And from your AVR Sub Out, use an RCA connection to the Sub Input.

From your AVR settings choices, you still can run your Speaker full range.
And choose what ever frequency point cut off you decide, and achieve your end goal.
Same for the LFE output.

I got towers speakers, and still cross them at 80Hz.
I prefer letting the sub/s do what they were design do, same as my towers. Since crossover are not a brick wall, and sound better that way to me using the subs for low end. After trying 40-60Hz cut off point, on the speakers.
And use the AVP to do all the settings and crossover point for the speakers and subs. After all, this what it is design to do and the same can be said for an AVR
Ray
Thanks. I get that you don't get what I'm after. I agree that it's a non-traditional approach and/or more complicated.

I'm familiar with the usual methods you're suggesting and why.

Unfortunately your comments don't answer any of my questions nor do your suggestions provide the stated end goal which is the option to run the speakers full range in 2 channel mode and then low passing the subwoofer to blend. For what it's worth this particular suggestion came from Ed Mullen at SVS.

The main thing I'm looking for here is input from Enrico or anyone else familiar with my suggested setup and whether there are any gotchas attempting to use the high level inputs together with the RCA line ins on the F15HP per the PEQ3 Sealed Version Quick Guide.

In lieu of using speaker inputs on the sub (ex if not available) I was also thinking of using a simple 2 input 1 output switch to feed the line ins on the sub from either the pre-outs on the receiver for 2 channel mode or the sub outs on the receiver for 5.1 channel mode to accomplish the same goal.

Last edited by dabl; 04-24-2019 at 05:52 AM.
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post #37948 of 39069 Old 04-24-2019, 05:27 AM
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@Rythmik

I was wondering if there is a reason the rumble filter on all subs other than LV12F are 18dB per octave. Is there something about this slope that is well matched to Rythmiks?

I ask because I have been using the MiniDSP 2x4 HD as my rumble filter (in addition to sub PEQ) for my L12, which is left in Low-Music. So far tried 20Hz 18dB per octave and 17Hz 18dB per octave and the latter sounds more like rumble filter off, which is a good thing.

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post #37949 of 39069 Old 04-24-2019, 07:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darthray View Post
To me, you are making your life and connections. Difficult for no reason.
I would just use the banana plug connections, as usual from your AVR to your speakers.
And from your AVR Sub Out, use an RCA connection to the Sub Input.

From your AVR settings choices, you still can run your Speaker full range.
And choose what ever frequency point cut off you decide, and achieve your end goal.
Same for the LFE output.

I got towers speakers, and still cross them at 80Hz.
I prefer letting the sub/s do what they were design do, same as my towers. Since crossover are not a brick wall, and sound better that way to me using the subs for low end. After trying 40-60Hz cut off point, on the speakers.
And use the AVP to do all the settings and crossover point for the speakers and subs. After all, this what it is design to do and the same can be said for an AVR


Ray
Quote:
Originally Posted by dabl View Post
Thanks. I get that you don't get what I'm after. I agree that it's a non-traditional approach and/or more complicated.

I'm familiar with the usual methods you're suggesting and why.

Unfortunately your comments don't answer any of my questions nor do your suggestions provide the stated end goal which is the option to run the speakers full range in 2 channel mode and then low passing the subwoofer to blend. For what it's worth this particular suggestion came from Ed Mullen at SVS.

The main thing I'm looking for here is input from Enrico or anyone else familiar with my suggested setup and whether there are any gotchas attempting to use the high level inputs together with the RCA line ins on the F15HP per the PEQ3 Sealed Version Quick Guide.

In lieu of using speaker inputs on the sub (ex if not available) I was also thinking of using a simple 2 input 1 output switch to feed the line ins on the sub from either the pre-outs on the receiver for 2 channel mode or the sub outs on the receiver for 5.1 channel mode to accomplish the same goal.
Totally agree with Ray. I would also add that using speaker level inputs from the receiver + LFE IN would cause another issues related to delay/phase integration. Sending the same signal to speakers and subwoofer, a signal that has been phase/delay corrected by the receiver only for the speaker + at the same time use the signal that has been phase/delay corrected by the receiver only for the subwoofer can cause phase issues and possible cancelation at the crossover point. Not to mention that you lose the ability to make level adjustments for the subwoofer on the receiver.
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Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio - Dialing In Rythmik Audio Subwoofers
Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | 92" Stewart ST100 | Sony VW295ES |
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post #37950 of 39069 Old 04-24-2019, 09:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Totally agree with Ray. I would also add that using speaker level inputs from the receiver + LFE IN would cause another issues related to delay/phase integration. Sending the same signal to speakers and subwoofer, a signal that has been phase/delay corrected by the receiver only for the speaker + at the same time use the signal that has been phase/delay corrected by the receiver only for the subwoofer can cause phase issues and possible cancelation at the crossover point. Not to mention that you lose the ability to make level adjustments for the subwoofer on the receiver.
Ok thanks.

Can you say why then in the PEQ3 Sealed Version Quick Guide it says "High level inputs can be used together with RCA"?

What applications/use cases would this apply to?

I don't follow your argument that I'd lose the ability to make level adjustments for the subwoofer on the receiver.

As I said I'd lower/raise the LFE output level on my receiver feeding the F15HP RCA line ins.

Last edited by dabl; 04-24-2019 at 09:31 AM.
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