Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 1303 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #39061 of 39462 Old 06-15-2019, 08:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjcinnamon View Post
On my LVX12’s is the gain knob an attenuator only or past 12 o’clock does it amplify/boost?
This has some good illustrations of how a potentiometer in an amp operates.
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post #39062 of 39462 Old 06-16-2019, 07:27 AM
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Originally Posted by tjcinnamon View Post
On my LVX12’s is the gain knob an attenuator only or past 12 o’clock does it amplify/boost?

Hi,

Both of the responses to your question offered good information. In case the explanation of a potentiometer that Jamie linked wasn't clear, the gain control on your subwoofer will continue to try to amplify the sub's volume all the way to the end of its travel. And, you can turn it up as much as you want to. At some point, however, the subwoofer will simply stop getting any louder due to the servo mechanism which limits the driver's excursion.

The driver in a subwoofer achieves its increases in volume by moving forward and backward, displacing air. The servo mechanism controls that excursion. Rythmik subwoofers are designed to be pretty bullet-proof. As long as your warning light isn't a constant red, and as long as you don't hear any audible distortion, you should be in no danger of over-driving your subwoofer.

As Darth suggested, you can use a combination of subwoofer gain and AVR trim to change the volume on your subwoofer. Some practical advice on the best ways to do that are included in the Guide linked below.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #39063 of 39462 Old 06-16-2019, 09:34 AM
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Maybe a picture will help in addition to the previous (very good) explanations. The volume control is a variable resistor that allows whatever signal level you desire from the AVR to be passed on to the subwoofer circuit. Note this is a very simplified look and different designs implement the control differently. In this circuit, the variable resistor (potentiometer) attenuates the signal except at full rotation, but the overall circuit has gain blocks (triangles representing amplifiers) before and after the control so the overall signal level depends on them as well as the level of the volume control. In other words, there is likely still a net gain when the volume control is at lower levels.

Note the AVR also has a volume control and usually a gain stage after it (second picture) so finding the actual gain from input to output can be a bit tricky to determine without comprehensive schematics or measurements.

In practice it is usually better for noise floor to have more gain early in the chain, and for distortion it is usually better to have the gain later in the chain, so it is up to us to find the right balance. With AVRs, adjust the sub's volume so the AVR's trims are at 0 dB or perhaps -3 to -6 dB if you like to boost the sub after running your room calibration, and that will generally provide a good trade between noise and distortion.

HTH - Don
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post #39064 of 39462 Old 06-16-2019, 03:30 PM
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My Rythmik F12G has a single LED on rear labeled as “Power Indicator”. I assume this model does not have the overload flashing LED ability?

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post #39065 of 39462 Old 06-17-2019, 05:30 AM
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I installed my two new FV25's last week and last night had a Father's Day family viewing of Spider Man, Into The Spider-Verse. Wow, those subs really rocked the room! They are installed behind the screen and when the bass hits hard, the image on the screen vibrates so much, it blurs the image! Right now, they are sitting at the front wall, 25% away from the side walls on each side. I was wondering if I could place them horizontally to avoid the screen vibration and still get the benefit of the 25% placement. I can't believe how much air these subs move! Even though my theater is a sealed room that concrete with rug, the whole room was shaking!!
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post #39066 of 39462 Old 06-17-2019, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mactavish View Post
My Rythmik F12G has a single LED on rear labeled as “Power Indicator”. I assume this model does not have the overload flashing LED ability?
I wouldn't assume that. It might be that the power light would flash. No need to have a separate LED.

I've never noticed it on mine but then it's not something that would be easy for me to see during normal listening

IF no one answers soon maybe I'll try cranking it up to see if I get flashing....
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post #39067 of 39462 Old 06-17-2019, 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt2026 View Post
I wouldn't assume that. It might be that the power light would flash. No need to have a separate LED.

I've never noticed it on mine but then it's not something that would be easy for me to see during normal listening

IF no one answers soon maybe I'll try cranking it up to see if I get flashing....
The flashing LED light codes (error codes) are only available on the Hypex based amps as it's a function of the Class D amp itself. The A370 and H600 series amps are Class A/B and Class H amps so there is not flashing light on those models as those are fully analog amps.
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post #39068 of 39462 Old 06-17-2019, 12:16 PM
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^^^ But I believe the power LED turns red when the limiter's threshold is reached...(?) If your amp has the limiter (the old base A370 did not IIRC, only the newer A370PEQ2 and A370PEQ3 models).

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #39069 of 39462 Old 06-17-2019, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchlampert View Post
I installed my two new FV25's last week and last night had a Father's Day family viewing of Spider Man, Into The Spider-Verse. Wow, those subs really rocked the room! They are installed behind the screen and when the bass hits hard, the image on the screen vibrates so much, it blurs the image! Right now, they are sitting at the front wall, 25% away from the side walls on each side. I was wondering if I could place them horizontally to avoid the screen vibration and still get the benefit of the 25% placement. I can't believe how much air these subs move! Even though my theater is a sealed room that concrete with rug, the whole room was shaking!!
While I don't think if it will remove, the vibration from the screen. Since sub frequencies, are omnidirectional. And do not care how they face the room, and only there physical location within your room. I see no problem of the sub been place horizontally, and intend to same with one of FV18 when I purchase them. For my first try for two locations.

That said, since you seem Happy with your results, other than vibrations problem from your screen.
You can always chase down/pinpoint, where it is coming from. Felt pads can remedy lots of them.
Chase many in my room, and no doubt will chase many more. Once I get those new subs

Darth

Last edited by darthray; 06-17-2019 at 05:09 PM.
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post #39070 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
While I don't think if it will remove, the vibration from the screen. Since sub frequencies, are omnidirectional. And do not care how they face the room, and only there physical location within your room. I see no problem of the sub been place horizontally, and intend to same with one of FV18 when I purchase them. For my first try for two locations.

That said, since you seem Happy with your results, other than vibrations problem from your screen.
You can always chase down/pinpoint, where it is coming from. Felt pads can remedy lots of them.
Chase many in my room, and no doubt will chase many more. Once I get those new subs

Darth
I should have been clearer. The top driver of the sub is about 2" from the screen and pointed directly at it so just the air movement is causing the vibration. I going to play with the orientation until I figure it out!
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post #39071 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by mitchlampert View Post
I should have been clearer. The top driver of the sub is about 2" from the screen and pointed directly at it so just the air movement is causing the vibration. I going to play with the orientation until I figure it out!
I can't find the link but I believe @muscles actually laid his FV25s on their side. He loved it until his HOA made him give them up .
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post #39072 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 11:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchlampert View Post
I installed my two new FV25's last week and last night had a Father's Day family viewing of Spider Man, Into The Spider-Verse. Wow, those subs really rocked the room! They are installed behind the screen and when the bass hits hard, the image on the screen vibrates so much, it blurs the image! Right now, they are sitting at the front wall, 25% away from the side walls on each side. I was wondering if I could place them horizontally to avoid the screen vibration and still get the benefit of the 25% placement. I can't believe how much air these subs move! Even though my theater is a sealed room that concrete with rug, the whole room was shaking!!
You can totally run the FV25HPs laying on their sides. In fact, you would get a bit more of TR doing that way.

Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio - Dialing In Rythmik Audio Subwoofers - REW for macOS
Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | 92" Stewart ST100 | Sony VW295ES |
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post #39073 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 11:37 AM
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I can't find the link but I believe @muscles actually laid his FV25s on their side. He loved it until his HOA made him give them up .
Of course @enricoclaudio will be able to answer this more definitively, but I'm pretty sure this has been addressed earlier in this thread that the HX2000XLR3 amp can be laid on its side as well as the other HX amps. However, there are other amps Rythmik used that should not be use in a side standing orientation for various reasons.


IRRC, there was a good deal of conversation around this topic when @serith was playing around with his three FV25's orientation. No?


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post #39074 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by derekmoore View Post
Of course @enricoclaudio IRRC, there was a good deal of conversation around this topic when @serith was playing around with his three FV25's orientation. No?
TR was by far the best with the cabinets on their sides as the drivers were closest to the floor. standing them all upright i lost TR but gained a huge amount of room pressurization at higher frequencies which i didn't enjoy nearly as much. whatever i end up doing in the room i know that i want the drivers & vent slots closest to the floor for maximum TR & so i can feel the port wind rush over my ankles again


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post #39075 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 12:50 PM
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TR was by far the best with the cabinets on their sides as the drivers were closest to the floor. standing them all upright i lost TR but gained a huge amount of room pressurization at higher frequencies which i didn't enjoy nearly as much. whatever i end up doing in the room i know that i want the drivers & vent slots closest to the floor for maximum TR & so i can feel the port wind rush over my ankles again
So should the ports be towards the middle or towards the side walls?
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post #39076 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 12:54 PM
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So should the ports be towards the middle or towards the side walls?
in my room there was no way to make the 3 rows of ports mirrored. as for how it felt & sound it didn't seem to matter which way i configured them, if that's what you're asking.


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post #39077 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by serith View Post
in my room there was no way to make the 3 rows of ports mirrored. as for how it felt & sound it didn't seem to matter which way i configured them, if that's what you're asking.
From your Avatar, you have your three subs in the back. And will assume, you like the way it sound.

Got any more pictures, showing how far they are from your seating area?
Could you also post the length of your room, and how far the subs are from the back to your MLP?


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post #39078 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
From your Avatar, you have your three subs in the back. And will assume, you like the way it sound.

Got any more pictures, showing how far they are from your seating area?
Could you also post the length of your room, and how far the subs are from the back to your MLP?


Darth
yes, the subs were at the rear of the room. i no longer have them though as i sold them back in december 2018. i loved how they felt & sound, i just want more and i found their limits is all. here are a few pictures that might help show how far away the subs were from the seating (it's about 6' from the seating to the front of the cabinets, never-mind the first picture as i had pulled them out a ways to play around with the TR). you can also see the difference between dark grey/light black painted drywall & black velvet on the walls







you can also get a sense for how far away i had the subs from the furniture (granted in this video it was a very ugly couch i had in the room...), but the distance was about the same:
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Distance from wall?

Still tinkering w/ my G25. I have it along the side wall, with one woofer facing toward the wall. How far away should I move it? I have it pretty close, but the grill is covering that side and there is still a little room. Or, Should I turn it sideways so it’s not bouncing into the wall? I’m sure my ears will help tell me what to do, I guess I’m more curious if there’s a recommendation for wall distance w/ a dual opposed design
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post #39080 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
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yes, the subs were at the rear of the room. i no longer have them though as i sold them back in december 2018. i loved how they felt & sound, i just want more and i found their limits is all. here are a few pictures that might help show how far away the subs were from the seating (it's about 6' from the seating to the front of the cabinets, never-mind the first picture as i had pulled them out a ways to play around with the TR). you can also see the difference between dark grey/light black painted drywall & black velvet on the walls















you can also get a sense for how far away i had the subs from the furniture (granted in this video it was a very ugly couch i had in the room...), but the distance was about the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmFvH1gMs1Y
Those 3 look awesome but sadly you dont have them anymore how long did it take you to sell them?

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post #39081 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 10:51 PM
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Does anyone know the thread size for the feet holes on the bottom of the FV18? Interested in trying custom brass feet.

Speakers: Ascend Acoustics Sierra RAAL Towers & Horizon w/ Mapleshade 4" Maple Platforms & Brass Heavyfeet ・ Ascend Sierra Luna satellitesRythmik FV18 subwoofer x2 ・ JBL GX-1200 subwoofer x5 direct mounted to seats
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post #39082 of 39462 Old 06-18-2019, 11:08 PM
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Those 3 look awesome but sadly you dont have them anymore how long did it take you to sell them?
sold a pair to a guy in buffalo a few hours west of me, and the last to a friend over in massachusetts back in december. it only took a couple of weeks after listing them here on the avsforum classified section to part with all of them. i recouped $5000 of the $6000 i had into the trio. i had them for about 1 year collectively, and if you do the math they effectively cost me $83/month for a 12 month lease. it was worth every penny! i've kept busy since selling them back in december and i'm now trying to make the room whole again. i have a number of options i'm exploring to make that happen soon!
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in my room there was no way to make the 3 rows of ports mirrored. as for how it felt & sound it didn't seem to matter which way i configured them, if that's what you're asking.
Thanks. I had to put the vents towards the walls just because the area to work in is so tight and that was the easiest way to orient them. Wow, they sound great, I can't imagine three subs in your room! I have a 5300 cubic foot room and can't imagine more bass!!

I did have a scare though. I use the opening of Blade Runner to test out the subs every time I move them and noticed a sound from one of the subs that sounded like the voice coil hitting. I thought I toasted it! Turns out, it was the grill! Thank god! I didn't want to send them back!!
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does anyone know the thread size for the feet holes on the bottom of the fv18? Interested in trying custom brass feet.
m-10
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Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | 92" Stewart ST100 | Sony VW295ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serith View Post
sold a pair to a guy in buffalo a few hours west of me, and the last to a friend over in massachusetts back in december. it only took a couple of weeks after listing them here on the avsforum classified section to part with all of them. i recouped $5000 of the $6000 i had into the trio. i had them for about 1 year collectively, and if you do the math they effectively cost me $83/month for a 12 month lease. it was worth every penny! i've kept busy since selling them back in december and i'm now trying to make the room whole again. i have a number of options i'm exploring to make that happen soon!
That's definitely worth it a month I am still trying to see if I can remotely take these but next week I'll be testing it with my fv15hp. If that sub makes my neighbors complain then that will suck lol I'll be in a second floor with wood floors too which I've read resonate the lower frequency more so having 4 15" I wouldn't want to go through the floor I just put them up 2 weeks ago and so it's a waiting game now for me. I've had 2 people now since I post it but just wanted to listen to it which I had no problem with

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post #39086 of 39462 Old 06-19-2019, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by serith View Post
yes, the subs were at the rear of the room. i no longer have them though as i sold them back in december 2018. i loved how they felt & sound, i just want more and i found their limits is all. here are a few pictures that might help show how far away the subs were from the seating (it's about 6' from the seating to the front of the cabinets, never-mind the first picture as i had pulled them out a ways to play around with the TR). you can also see the difference between dark grey/light black painted drywall & black velvet on the walls







you can also get a sense for how far away i had the subs from the furniture (granted in this video it was a very ugly couch i had in the room...), but the distance was about the same: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmFvH1gMs1Y

Thanks for the pictures and the video
Love your room, nicely done!!!
From memory, I cannot remember what you replace them with!?


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post #39087 of 39462 Old 06-19-2019, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
m-10
m10, sound like a standard size

Quote:
Originally Posted by pink soda View Post
Does anyone know the thread size for the feet holes on the bottom of the FV18? Interested in trying custom brass feet.
I believe m-10 is a standard size for speaker treads. From the reply you got, from @enricoclaudio.
Here's a link, where I got my Custom Made Outriggers;
https://soundocity.com/product-category/tips/

The man is on retirement, and do custom work as a side hobby and small business.
His craftsmanship is Outstanding, and many choices to choose from.
For the tips, I went with two different colors. One color for the Tip, one other one for the main body of the brass cone (see my Theater page, attach to my signature. For pictures).
And since all is work, is custom made. You can request a m-10 tread.


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Last edited by darthray; 06-19-2019 at 06:51 PM.
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post #39088 of 39462 Old 06-19-2019, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
m10, sound like a standard size



I believe m-10 is a standard size for speaker treads. From the reply you got, from @enricoclaudio.
Here's a link, where I got my Custom Made Outriggers;
https://soundocity.com/product-category/tips/


The man is on retirement, and do custom work as a side hobby and small business.
His craftsmanship is Outstanding, and many choices to choose from.
For the tips, I went with two different colors. One color for the Tip, one other one for the main body of the brass cone.
We uses M-10 for 15" and 18" subwoofers and M-6 for 12" subwoofers.
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Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | 92" Stewart ST100 | Sony VW295ES |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |
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post #39089 of 39462 Old 06-19-2019, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
Thanks for the pictures and the video
Love your room, nicely done!!!
From memory, I cannot remember what you replace them with!?


Darth
nothing.




yet
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post #39090 of 39462 Old 06-19-2019, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serith View Post
nothing.









yet
"yet"

You have a idea of what route you are going with?

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