Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 1336 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #40051 of 40466 Old 09-13-2019, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
Will an FV18 (still in the box) fit into the side door of a standard size mini van if the seats are removed? Opted to pick my FV18 up from the UPS terminal when it arrives (only 15mins away)
I'm not certain there's such a thing as a "standard size mini van" these days but if you're referring to the sliding door it should fit. It's a big boy all boxed up, but most of those doors open pretty wide.
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post #40052 of 40466 Old 09-13-2019, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by BigCoolJesus View Post
Regarding the XLR, this is what the Rythmik guide says:
"Amplifier accepts two XLR inputs. The left XLR (for right channel) can be used as a 2 channel input or LFE input, controlled by the MODE switch. In NORMAL mode, the amplifier accepts up to two XLR regular signals with full phase/crossover/Lowpass controls. In DUAL mode, the left XLR is for an LFE signal whilst the right XLR is for a 2 channel source input"

Based on that, I would assume I should set the Mode to Dual. But just wanted to make sure
Thanks for taking the time to post those instruction
As I mention yesterday, I did read them at work during lunch time. But left my copy at work.

Good thing that @enricoclaudio did reply to you, since I find those instruction confusing
Since I was under the assumption, the XLR should be plug on the left side. And the switch set to normal, with a home theater only without a two channel only.


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post #40053 of 40466 Old 09-13-2019, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by darrob104 View Post
Thanks for your help with this... my system is sounding much better after, and gives me hope that there's a light at the end of the tunnel....

and thanks to all who gave me feedback! Much appreciated! I'll be out of town for a couple of days for a concert, so it'll be a 'REW Free' weekend....

Thanks again!
Just want to mention, make sure to wear some Ear Plugs. Since most concert play extremely loud, and you want to save your hearing. To be able, to enjoy your subs and the rest of your system for many years to come


Darth
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post #40054 of 40466 Old 09-14-2019, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
Good lord, here I am reading through the Rythmik thread for the past 6 months (I'm almost caught up to current-day, having read many thousands of posts to educate myself on their subs), and I see this reference to my ultra-cheapo TV risers. haha. Thanks for remembering and sharing my elegant setup.

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post #40055 of 40466 Old 09-14-2019, 11:57 AM
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Hi all! I'm new to Rythmik subs and I've scheduled pick up for two FV18 Rev 2 Paper Cones next Saturday from Austin to demo in my room.

I have a 2000ft^3 sealed & suspended wood floor HT and love TR and chest slam. My HT is used for 99% movies and video games.

I know FV18s have ton of configuration options between the amp settings and plugging ports so what do you suggest I start with first given my room and preferences?



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post #40056 of 40466 Old 09-14-2019, 12:07 PM
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^^ See Enrico‘s signature on setting up Rythmik sub. @imureh can provide his input on the knobs and switches to start. Once you have them properly dialed in, please give us your review whether you decide to keep or return.
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post #40057 of 40466 Old 09-14-2019, 06:33 PM
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Originally Posted by jwskud View Post
Good lord, here I am reading through the Rythmik thread for the past 6 months (I'm almost caught up to current-day, having read many thousands of posts to educate myself on their subs), and I see this reference to my ultra-cheapo TV risers. haha. Thanks for remembering and sharing my elegant setup.
The way I look at it, it is a very practical solution

And might do same with my center stand, with an 3" block. Since my stand is 18" tall with some outrigger, and the FV18 measure 21" on it's side. And been experimenting with locations, in anticipation of my future FV18. Having one on the left front side, and one in the right back corner of the room. Due to the FV18 size, my center speaker will need to sit partly on the FV18 (left side) and the right side on a speaker stand. And most admit, that I am looking for Custom made Stand since my current stand would stick too much behind the speaker.


Darth

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post #40058 of 40466 Old 09-15-2019, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by zambine View Post
Hi all! I'm new to Rythmik subs and I've scheduled pick up for two FV18 Rev 2 Paper Cones next Saturday from Austin to demo in my room.

I have a 2000ft^3 sealed & suspended wood floor HT and love TR and chest slam. My HT is used for 99% movies and video games.

I know FV18s have ton of configuration options between the amp settings and plugging ports so what do you suggest I start with first given my room and preferences?



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I don’t have the paper cones but the way mine are set is: LFE input, 12hz port tune (1 port plugged), 12hz extension, high damping. If you want more TR, try the mid and low damping. Your room is small enough that going for more output in the 16hz port tune would be a moot point imo. If you have a mic and REW you can see what each looks like in your room. I’m in a 10k cubic foot open first floor and my duals are still very impressive in this big space. And by that I mean they can flex my windows.

Just a note, since your new to Rythmik the high damping might sound a little “thin”. Once you get used to the accuracy of this setting it’s hard to go away from it. Everything sounds that much more real. It is different though from the sound of most other subs.

That being said, I do like the mid damping as well. Gives the bass a touch more “meat” and still sounds great.
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post #40059 of 40466 Old 09-15-2019, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by darthray View Post
Just want to mention, make sure to wear some Ear Plugs. Since most concert play extremely loud, and you want to save your hearing. To be able, to enjoy your subs and the rest of your system for many years to come


Darth
Definitely... took my 16 year old son and didn't want him to have hearing damage, so I had picked up ear plugs for both of us... I find indoor concerts just sound better with earplugs in... the noise & distortion makes it sound terrible, otherwise...
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post #40060 of 40466 Old 09-15-2019, 08:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jsc79 View Post
I don’t have the paper cones but the way mine are set is: LFE input, 12hz port tune (1 port plugged), 12hz extension, high damping. If you want more TR, try the mid and low damping. Your room is small enough that going for more output in the 16hz port tune would be a moot point imo. If you have a mic and REW you can see what each looks like in your room. I’m in a 10k cubic foot open first floor and my duals are still very impressive in this big space. And by that I mean they can flex my windows.



Just a note, since your new to Rythmik the high damping might sound a little “thin”. Once you get used to the accuracy of this setting it’s hard to go away from it. Everything sounds that much more real. It is different though from the sound of most other subs.



That being said, I do like the mid damping as well. Gives the bass a touch more “meat” and still sounds great.
Thanks for the pointers man! I'm looking forward to getting them in my space and playing around with all the settings. I do have REW and a UMIK-1 so I will be running some sweeps to see what kind of response I'm getting.

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post #40061 of 40466 Old 09-15-2019, 09:37 PM
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Originally Posted by zambine View Post
Thanks for the pointers man! I'm looking forward to getting them in my space and playing around with all the settings. I do have REW and a UMIK-1 so I will be running some sweeps to see what kind of response I'm getting.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk

Look forward to hearing your impressions on the dual FV18's. What other subs have you had in your room?

Ross

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post #40062 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by zambine View Post
Thanks for the pointers man! I'm looking forward to getting them in my space and playing around with all the settings. I do have REW and a UMIK-1 so I will be running some sweeps to see what kind of response I'm getting.

Sent from my SM-G965U1 using Tapatalk
Excellent! I think you will really like them, I know they put a smile on my face every time they get used.

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post #40063 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 07:34 AM
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Need some advice between FV15HP vs FV18. I have dedicated media room on the second floor of the house and its 15' x 17' x 9'. Watch movies 90+% of times. Have SVS Ultra bookself for LCR, 4 x EMPTek R5bi for Rear and Side and 4 x Micca Reference R-8C for atmos.

I'm going to buy 2. Would like to know which one should be good for the room size?

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post #40064 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 08:10 AM
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Originally Posted by imsatasia View Post
Need some advice between FV15HP vs FV18. I have dedicated media room on the second floor of the house and its 15' x 17' x 9'. Watch movies 90+% of times. Have SVS Ultra bookself for LCR, 4 x EMPTek R5bi for Rear and Side and 4 x Micca Reference R-8C for atmos.

I'm going to buy 2. Would like to know which one should be good for the room size?

Hi,

I think your question is a little more complicated than it sounds. In my opinion, room size may not be the most important factor in determining how much subwoofer to buy. The room does amplify the lowest frequencies, although it is still important for a subwoofer to produce enough meaningful SPL at those frequencies to achieve the total amount of low-bass that someone wants. I think that the difference between a 1500^3 room and a 3000^3 room may not really be all that significant, compared to the low-bass preferences of a particular individual.

For instance, in a 2300^3 room, many people would be content with dual 12" ported subwoofers; or dual 12" sealed subwoofers; or even a single 12" sealed subwoofer. But, you already have dual 12" ported subs and are trying to decide between dual 15" ported and dual 18" ported.

To me, that suggests that you enjoy having a lot of low-frequency output and LF tactile response, even on your suspended wood floor. The fact that your listening involves 90% movies is also important. Given all of that, I would recommend that you buy the dual FV18's, with the paper cones. They won't have a lot more low-frequency output and TR than the FV15HP's, but they will have at least a couple of decibels more, and they extend a little bit deeper. They have a somewhat flatter overall frequency response, with a more gradual roll-off, that I think will suit your room size and low-bass preferences.

They are a little better subwoofer for your application, in my opinion, especially with the paper cone. And they will take any uncertainty out of the equation. Personally, I think it is always better to spend a little more to get slightly more subwoofage than we think we may need, in order to avoid future episodes of upgradeitis. You have already experienced that with your SVS subs.

Regards,
Mike


Edit: I decided to edit this to add that you can always control how much output your subwoofers produce, if you ever feel that it is disproportionate to what your speakers can produce. In other words, you can always turn down the subwoofer volume. But, you never know when you might also decide to upgrade speakers. Having just a little more undistorted/uncompressed bass output than you absolutely need is a good thing, in my opinion.
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
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post #40065 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 11:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by imsatasia View Post
Need some advice between FV15HP vs FV18. I have dedicated media room on the second floor of the house and its 15' x 17' x 9'. Watch movies 90+% of times. Have SVS Ultra bookself for LCR, 4 x EMPTek R5bi for Rear and Side and 4 x Micca Reference R-8C for atmos.

I'm going to buy 2. Would like to know which one should be good for the room size? [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/confused.gif[/IMG]

Hi,

I think your question is a little more complicated than it sounds. In my opinion, room size may not be the most important factor in determining how much subwoofer to buy. The room does amplify the lowest frequencies, although it is still important for a subwoofer to produce enough meaningful SPL at those frequencies to achieve the total amount of low-bass that someone wants. I think that the difference between a 1500^3 room and a 3000^3 room may not really be all that significant, compared to the low-bass preferences of a particular individual.

For instance, in a 2300^3 room, many people would be content with dual 12" ported subwoofers; or dual 12" sealed subwoofers; or even a single 12" sealed subwoofer. But, you already have dual 12" ported subs and are trying to decide between dual 15" ported and dual 18" ported.

To me, that suggests that you enjoy having a lot of low-frequency output and LF tactile response, even on your suspended wood floor. The fact that your listening involves 90% movies is also important. Given all of that, I would recommend that you buy the dual FV18's, with the paper cones. They won't have a lot more low-frequency output and TR than the FV15HP's, but they will have at least a couple of decibels more, and they extend a little bit deeper. They have a somewhat flatter overall frequency response, with a more gradual roll-off, that I think will suit your room size and low-bass preferences.

They are a little better subwoofer for your application, in my opinion, especially with the paper cone. And they will take any uncertainty out of the equation. Personally, I think it is always better to spend a little more to get slightly more subwoofage than we think we may need, in order to avoid future episodes of upgradeitis. You have already experienced that with your SVS subs. [IMG class=inlineimg]/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif[/IMG]

Regards,
Mike
Thanks Mike for detailed response.

Yup I do love low frequency effects but was worried about bass taking over my SVS Ultra Bookself in small room. I talked to Brian yesterday and he recommended FV15HP for my room size and speakers setup but wanted to get second opinion.

I’m local so I can always try 😊
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post #40066 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 11:08 AM
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If my Rythmik F25 shipped with black cones instead of silver cones, does that mean I got "paper cones"? And if so, is that more-or-less desireable from a performance standpoint (or are there pros-vs-cons to one vs the other)? Again, asking from a purely from a performance/sound quality standpoing.


From an aesthetic standpoint I really like how the Silver Cones look in pictures, and was planning to pay a little extra to get a "silver cone upgrade" back when i was targeting the 15" Ported "HP" option... but this forum and Rythmiks' buyer's guide steered me towards the F25 from a performance standpoint. FWIW - I have no regrets performance-wise. It's the fastest, tightest, most responsive bass I've ever heard... in copious quantities when called upon to be...

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post #40067 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by rossandwendy View Post
Look forward to hearing your impressions on the dual FV18's. What other subs have you had in your room?

Ross
As far as what I consider big boy subs, I started out with a PSA V1510 and another random ported 15" sub I had together in my HT. I quickly moved up to dual PSA S3010s which I currently have.

Even thought the S3010s are outstanding and have HUGE amplifiers I feel that am missing the TR that I felt even with the lesser ported subs. I recognize that this could be entirely due to my lack of expertise around setup/placement/EQing of the S3010s but in this case I will be able to do some real AB testing in my own room with all 4 subs hooked up at the same time. I believe that this process will really get me the answer I'm looking for and allow me to choose a sub depending on my own personal preferences vs just reading about what they sound like.

If there is no difference in TR, a lessening in quality of the bass (highly doubt it), placement/measurement issues, or anything else that comes up I can simply return the FV18s which is nice.
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post #40068 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by psuKinger View Post
If my Rythmik F25 shipped with black cones instead of silver cones, does that mean I got "paper cones"? And if so, is that more-or-less desireable from a performance standpoint (or are there pros-vs-cons to one vs the other)? Again, asking from a purely from a performance/sound quality standpoing.


From an aesthetic standpoint I really like how the Silver Cones look in pictures, and was planning to pay a little extra to get a "silver cone upgrade" back when i was targeting the 15" Ported "HP" option... but this forum and Rythmiks' buyer's guide steered me towards the F25 from a performance standpoint. FWIW - I have no regrets performance-wise. It's the fastest, tightest, most responsive bass I've ever heard... in copious quantities when called upon to be...
The F25 only ships with aluminum cone drivers. Silver and black are both aluminum cone and perform exactly the same. We don't make 15" paper cone drivers.
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post #40069 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 11:45 AM
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The F25 only ships with aluminum cone drivers. Silver and black are both aluminum cone and perform exactly the same. We don't make 15" paper cone drivers.

Cool.


I can google it (probably well), but care to educate at all on the pros-vs-cons of Paper vs. Aluminum cones? Why use one vs. the other for a design? I'm genuinely interested...
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post #40070 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 11:55 AM
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Enrico or Brian have posted before and can provide a more-informed answer, but IME/IMO Al is generally stiffer for the same mass and thus should exhibit lower distortion and higher breakup frequency. Paper is widely reputed to offer greater tactile feedback which could be due to lighter weight so "faster" response (not something I relate to with subwoofers) or higher distortion. With the servo circuit I would expect the differences to be slight at best unless you are pushing them to extremes.

Oh, wait, forgot where I was posting...
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post #40071 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 03:08 PM
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one point for people buying subs....what can your main front 3 do? if my front 3 can only play 95 db you probably wouldnt see any benefit for movies over 110db. the avr processing gonna intervene. so even tho my subs can do 130db, would that sound right if rest of speakers can only do 95db? now if you have front speakers that can do 110db, I can see wanting subs that can do 125db. if you listen at 85db, I can recommend some awesome 200 dollar speakers that with a 12 in sub will make ya happy. these large subs are for playing loud, otherwise you wasting space and money.
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post #40072 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 04:40 PM
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I am looking to replace a 15 year old Polk 12 inch rear ported sub. PSW505. I am looking at the Rythmik L12 based on recommendations from another thread. My sub placement is not ideal as it is in a custom cabinet in a wall unit with an acoustic screen door. The room is also pretty large and the ceilings as high as 15 ft. Is this sealed sub the way to go? Unfortunately, the dimensions of the cabinet are about 18 W 17 D 16.5 H, so I am a bit limited. Ported options tend to be too large. I am looking at the RSL Speedwoofer 10S as well, and the SVS SB-1000. I probably listen to music and movies about the same amount.
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post #40073 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 06:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by imsatasia View Post
Thanks Mike for detailed response.

Yup I do love low frequency effects but was worried about bass taking over my SVS Ultra Bookself in small room. I talked to Brian yesterday and he recommended FV15HP for my room size and speakers setup but wanted to get second opinion.

I’m local so I can always try 😊
Since you are local to Rythmik, try the FV15 to see if you are happy.
If not, it would be very easy to exchange them for a couple FV18.
While the price difference of $400 each, can be too steep for some.

I know myself while been lots of money, I am not taking a chance since I live in Canada.
I will buy eventually two FV18 (still saving the funds for them, and have lots of patience for this process).
I do not want the "what if factor", due to my location.


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Last edited by darthray; 09-16-2019 at 06:21 PM.
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post #40074 of 40466 Old 09-16-2019, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
The F25 only ships with aluminum cone drivers. Silver and black are both aluminum cone and perform exactly the same. We don't make 15" paper cone drivers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by psuKinger View Post
If my Rythmik F25 shipped with black cones instead of silver cones, does that mean I got "paper cones"? And if so, is that more-or-less desireable from a performance standpoint (or are there pros-vs-cons to one vs the other)? Again, asking from a purely from a performance/sound quality standpoing.

From an aesthetic standpoint I really like how the Silver Cones look in pictures, and was planning to pay a little extra to get a "silver cone upgrade" back when i was targeting the 15" Ported "HP" option... but this forum and Rythmiks' buyer's guide steered me towards the F25 from a performance standpoint. FWIW - I have no regrets performance-wise. It's the fastest, tightest, most responsive bass I've ever heard... in copious quantities when called upon to be...
While Enrico, already answer your question for what type of drivers your are getting. I will answer the difference between paper cone and aluminum ones.

Directly from the Rythmik site, for the FV18;
Paper Cone vs Metal Cone and Independent Lab Test Results
Standard FV18 version uses metal cone DS1820 for its stiffness and low distortion. The independent test lab site www.data-bass.com has published the max distortion numbers for our metal cone FV18 and F18. The F18 has lower distortion and yet more output than Velodyne DD18+ for 1/3 of the price. Paper cone like the one used in Velodyne DD18+ can be made lighter than metal cone and therefore improve outputs above 50hz by up to 3db with the sacrifice of slightly higher distortions. For those who are after the maximum headroom in HT application may consider the paper cone version FV18SW (with paper cone SW1825).

So in short, for the user wanted to achieve the maximum output.
Since myself, I never play my movies near reference level. I will get my future FV18, with the aluminum cone that have rubber surround for suspension.
Due to my new young Kitten, while been easy to train. He love anything that is foam, but do leave rubber alone.
And already damage, one of my sound reflection panel
That said, it is life with a new Cat


Darth
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Last edited by darthray; 09-16-2019 at 06:54 PM.
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post #40075 of 40466 Old 09-17-2019, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by torii View Post
one point for people buying subs....what can your main front 3 do? if my front 3 can only play 95 db you probably wouldnt see any benefit for movies over 110db. the avr processing gonna intervene. so even tho my subs can do 130db, would that sound right if rest of speakers can only do 95db? now if you have front speakers that can do 110db, I can see wanting subs that can do 125db. if you listen at 85db, I can recommend some awesome 200 dollar speakers that with a 12 in sub will make ya happy. these large subs are for playing loud, otherwise you wasting space and money.
One caveat: equal-loudness curves say you'll need from 10 to 30 dB or so extra headroom in the subs to match the mains. So, if your mains can do 95 dB, you would probably want subs that can actually do 115 dB or so, if you want the deep bass to sound as loud (or reach the same loudness at max volume) as the midrange.

See e.g. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equal-loudness_contour

"After silence, that which best expresses the inexpressible, is music" - Aldous Huxley
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post #40076 of 40466 Old 09-17-2019, 04:15 PM
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I haven't had a chance to post my impressions on the F18 I ordered. When my roommate first saw it after installing the sub into my HT, he seemed worried and thought I was going to blow out the neighborhood! It's definitely a sub that looks like it could bring down the house. Having said that, once I integrated the sub into my system with MiniDSP and the UMIK, I was surprised by how quiet the sub is. When I say quiet, I don't mean that the sub isn't as loud as it should be, but rather how well it performs its role within the system without drawing unnecessary attention to itself.

My Philharmonitor BMR's already play pretty low (~25Hz), so the Rythmik isn't necessarily giving dramatically deeper extension than what I'm used to. Right now, if I switch between "Direct" and "Stereo" mode on my receiver, which switches between Full Range 2.0 and 2.1, it's difficult for me to tell if the subwoofer is even on unless I listen very closely. When I did some REW measurements of my system without the sub, I was surprised to see how flat my bass response is for my Phil BMR's. It was very flat from 25Hz all the way up to 300Hz, with a dip (likely caused by my room) at 80Hz. Even below 25Hz there's "audible" (or felt) output.

When I hooked up my sub, the first thing I had to do was get the volume output of the subwoofer relatively in line with my speakers. To achieve this, I had to set the output volume of the sub within MiniDSP all the way to -18dB. Using this and the EQ (following advice form everyone in this thread), I've created for myself a generous house curve. After re-measuring, I'm very impressed with how flat the response is along the curve I've aimed for. Most of my music listening isn't done at high volumes, but if I'm cranking the volume then I've found myself turning output volume of the sub as low as -28dB.

I watched Edge of Tomorrow on VUDU. Based on what I was reading, I was under the impression there would be so much bass I'd find myself changing my pants. I heard a lot of deep bass, but aside from maybe a helicopter passing by in the beginning, I don't particularly remember being blown away by the amount of bass. Perhaps, if I turned the volume back to normal on my sub just for the sake, I would imagine there would be an uber amount of bass, but then it would excessively louder than my speakers. I suppose the point is that I thought, even in a system with a balanced response, the bass was going to be dangerously loud. I thought I would need the limiter and Rumble Filter on, considering the Rythmik guide specifically mentioned using these for this movie, but I'm having difficulty figuring out why I would need it. Are these protections exclusively for people running serious theater-sized rooms? If I'm running my sub at -18dB, does that mean I'm not really making the sub sweat much? Frankly I'm tempted to not worry about it that much because it's very rare there's a bass-heavy Blu-Ray that I want to see.

I'm sure I'll be spending a lot more time working on my EQ curve and moving around my 6 GIK 244 bass traps before I get the best sound out of the sub. At this moment I'm very satisfied. The low-end hits with much more ease and authority than it did through my BMR's. It also sounds like BMR's sound tightened up all-around now that they aren't on bass duty anymore, which is nice because I'm running them with a lot less powerful of an amp than what Dennis Murphy recommends. I've been using the cheapest Denon Bluetooth receiver from Accessories4Less for a few years now, so there's a lot more power now going into my system with this 900w sub

I'm sure in the near future I'll come back with pictures of my measurements and ask for specific advice or recommendations, but for now I'm very satisfied.
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post #40077 of 40466 Old 09-18-2019, 06:19 AM
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^ sounds like someone's sub trim is too low
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post #40078 of 40466 Old 09-18-2019, 07:49 AM
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Yeah, we need to see the measurements you've taken. Keep in mind, though, that the Edge of Tomorrow intro everyone talks about is super low bass (like 10 Hz low) You should be getting output from the sub there, but not a ton of it with one sub. It takes really high SPL to perceive sound at those sorts of frequencies. Multiple sealed subs in a smallish sealed room are required.

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Transducers: Revel Concerta2 F36 (3), M16 (4); Tannoy AMS 6DC (4); Rythmik F18 (2)
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post #40079 of 40466 Old 09-18-2019, 09:18 PM
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I will add that it doesn't take a lot of SPL to hear that 10 Hz tone because your room will let you know about it
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post #40080 of 40466 Old 09-19-2019, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkeeler10 View Post
Yeah, we need to see the measurements you've taken. Keep in mind, though, that the Edge of Tomorrow intro everyone talks about is super low bass (like 10 Hz low) You should be getting output from the sub there, but not a ton of it with one sub. It takes really high SPL to perceive sound at those sorts of frequencies. Multiple sealed subs in a smallish sealed room are required.

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It's flat to ~12Hz in the measurements, a few Db less at 10 but not a steep drop-off. Having two subs would be a complete waste in my case. Why would I use 2 subs if I'm not even fully using one?

If I turned up my subwoofer really high just to hear it - then it means I'm also turning my speakers really high - and then I'll be deaf because I'm seriously blasting my big gear in a tiny room.

Even if that I did that just for fun - isn't the rumble filter and limiter just going to cut down the bass anyways?

Last edited by t1337Dude; 09-19-2019 at 01:35 PM.
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