Official Rythmik Audio Subwoofer thread - Page 554 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16591 of 40485 Old 09-05-2014, 10:13 PM
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Unfortunately moving it isn't an option for me, and I love the super low stuff too much to filter any of it out. I'm really just wondering what the actual performance benefit is in going from 3 cu. ft. to 4. Has anyone measured it?
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post #16592 of 40485 Old 09-05-2014, 10:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldave View Post
Does anyone happen to know how much increase in output I'd get (at around 20 Hz) if I put my F15's driver and amp into the 4 cu. ft. cabinet from DIY Sound? I'm wondering if it would be a worthwhile "upgrade". Any chance I'd achieve F15HP-equivalent output?
The greater output of the F15HP is because of the DS1510 driver and H600 amp (the enclosure is the exact same as that of the non-HP F15). Putting your DS1501 driver and A370 amp in a 4cu.ft. box will buy you a very marginal increase in output, but it will be in the very low frequencies. The 4cu.ft box is $120 plus shipping each. Add to that the cost of glue, clamps, and the cost to either paint or veneer the boxes.

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post #16593 of 40485 Old 09-05-2014, 11:51 PM
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Sounds like it might be better just to save up for an F15HP or F25. Or maybe buy an F15HP kit and put that in the 4 cu. ft. box.

Thanks for the input!
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post #16594 of 40485 Old 09-06-2014, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldave View Post
Sounds like it might be better just to save up for an F15HP or F25. Or maybe buy an F15HP kit and put that in the 4 cu. ft. box.

Thanks for the input!
If you get the HP kit AND put it in a 4cu.ft. box, the sub will outperform a factory assembled F15HP, with it's 3cu.ft. box.
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post #16595 of 40485 Old 09-06-2014, 02:31 PM
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Any idea by how much? My whole question is based on my noticing that the difference between an F15 and an F15HP is 2 dB. Then I also noticed people had mentioned that a 4 cu. ft. cab would increase output for those subs. So I got to wondering just exactly how much increase you'd get with the bigger size. 2 db? 1 dB? 0.5 dB? Less than that?

A bigger cab wouldn't bother me at all, but there comes a point where it's just not worth it if the increase is not noticeable by anything other than an SPL meter. I'm wondering if anyone has measured the difference, so we can get an idea whether or not it's big enough to matter.
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post #16596 of 40485 Old 09-06-2014, 06:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eldave View Post
Any idea by how much? My whole question is based on my noticing that the difference between an F15 and an F15HP is 2 dB. Then I also noticed people had mentioned that a 4 cu. ft. cab would increase output for those subs. So I got to wondering just exactly how much increase you'd get with the bigger size. 2 db? 1 dB? 0.5 dB? Less than that?

A bigger cab wouldn't bother me at all, but there comes a point where it's just not worth it if the increase is not noticeable by anything other than an SPL meter. I'm wondering if anyone has measured the difference, so we can get an idea whether or not it's big enough to matter.
I would guess meter only territory, like 0.5 db.
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post #16597 of 40485 Old 09-06-2014, 06:39 PM
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In that case, 3 cu. ft. is probably a better way to go (at least for me). I kinda figured that would be the case, since obviously Brian knows what he's doing, and he's decided on 3 cu. ft. cabs.
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post #16598 of 40485 Old 09-06-2014, 09:29 PM
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^^ why don't you just get the fv15hp and be done unless I missed the part you want smaller size sub or sealed.
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post #16599 of 40485 Old 09-07-2014, 01:21 AM
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It's because I prefer sealed. I realize the Rythmik ported subs come very close in sound quality to the sealed ones, but I'm a real stickler for having absolutely the best sound quality possible. I also like the way the sub-20 Hz frequencies feel on my eardrums, and the way they can rattle my room, so I want the slower roll off way down deep that a sealed sub provides.

Actually, my F15 gives me all the level I need in my current place. I was just thinking if getting more output is as simple and cheap as building the 4 cu. ft. flat pack, then why not do it just for fun. But if the increase in output is tiny, then there's really no point... it would just take up more space.
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post #16600 of 40485 Old 09-07-2014, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
Hey Ace,

Which AVR did you get, the SR7008 or the X4000? Did you get the Parasound Halo P5 too?
I got the SR7008 and the P5. It sounds fantastic!

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post #16601 of 40485 Old 09-07-2014, 09:38 AM
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instead of guessing...simply post a thread in the diy section requesting somebody to model the ds1501 driver in a 3cf and 4cf box with winisd. you will need the T/S specs of the driver to do this. Majority of sealed 15" subs like around 3cf and 18" subs like 4cf. I do not see a big difference in output by doing this.
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post #16602 of 40485 Old 09-07-2014, 01:03 PM
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Rythmik has an output comparison chart here:
http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products1.html

BTW, when I said maybe +0.5 db for a bigger enclosure, I was talking about for the same driver and amp.
It looks like going to an HP driver and amp gets you another +2-2.5 db.
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post #16603 of 40485 Old 09-07-2014, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
instead of guessing...simply post a thread in the diy section requesting somebody to model the ds1501 driver in a 3cf and 4cf box with winisd. you will need the T/S specs of the driver to do this. Majority of sealed 15" subs like around 3cf and 18" subs like 4cf. I do not see a big difference in output by doing this.
This was mentioned before here and in the DIY section but is good to remind that there is no point into model any of our servo drivers with Winisd because you will get the non-servo response only. To get the real response you will need a proprietary servo modeling software that unfortunatelly we can't share. That's one of the reasons we publish box sizes for each driver with a minimum and a maximum volume. With the max volume we recommend you will get the max excursion out of the driver.

Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio - Dialing In Rythmik Audio Subwoofers - REW for macOS
Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony 77A9G OLED |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |
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post #16604 of 40485 Old 09-07-2014, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace Deprave View Post
I got the SR7008 and the P5. It sounds fantastic!

WOW.. this looks pretty awesome!! I love my Marantz SR7008 + Parasound P5 combo.

Enrico Castagnetti @ Rythmik Audio - Dialing In Rythmik Audio Subwoofers - REW for macOS
Media Room: Sierra Towers w/RAAL, Horizon w/RAAL, Sierra 2s & Lunas | Rythmik F12SE(x2) + FV25HP | Denon X6500H | Panny 820 + ATV 4K | Bluesound Node 2 | Sony 77A9G OLED |
Desktop: Dynaudio BM5 mkIII | Rythmik L22 | Apogee Quartet | 27" iMac| Bedroom: B&W 685 S2 | Rythmik LVX12 | Marantz SR6013 | Sony X700 + ATV 4K | Sony XBR-65Z9D |
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post #16605 of 40485 Old 09-07-2014, 01:53 PM
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I've had my F15 since 2010, and I just noticed it has this weird line that I can't tell if it's glue or rust? I can't really feel it at all, and it won't really come off. Any have this on their sub? I have moved about 10 times since I got the sub and it was in a storage unit for awhile so I guess it could be rust. Sub works fine, just want it to look as well as it sounds.
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post #16606 of 40485 Old 09-07-2014, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by enricoclaudio View Post
WOW.. this looks pretty awesome!! I love my Marantz SR7008 + Parasound P5 combo.
Thanks! It was originally a formal living and dining room that was mostly used as storage for older furniture, my computer desk, and a kids' playroom...basically wasted space. We have taken it it back!

Here's how it looked a month ago when we started the project:

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post #16607 of 40485 Old 09-07-2014, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peen View Post
I've had my F15 since 2010, and I just noticed it has this weird line that I can't tell if it's glue or rust? I can't really feel it at all, and it won't really come off. Any have this on their sub? I have moved about 10 times since I got the sub and it was in a storage unit for awhile so I guess it could be rust. Sub works fine, just want it to look as well as it sounds.

Peen, what you have seen is the dis-coloration of glue in an earlier batch of DS1500. We also noticed that and notified the supplier to change the glue. It does not affect the sound.
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post #16608 of 40485 Old 09-08-2014, 06:01 AM
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Selling my FV15HP-SE if anyone is interested..

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-au...subwoofer.html

*ENTERTAINMENT PURPOSES ONLY*
*TV: Sony XBR65Z9D* - *BD Player: Pioneer UDP-LX 500* - *AVR: Yamaha RX-A3070* - *Audio System: (2) Funk Audio 6.1P’s towers - (2) Funk Audio 3.4D’s surrounds - (1) Funk 18.0C sub*
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post #16609 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 11:04 AM
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Stacked subwoofers

What do you guys think of this?

Chris
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post #16610 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 11:09 AM
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^^^ I feel confident in saying that I don't think anyone has seen that before. Legos?

Display - LG OLED
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post #16611 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by gregcss View Post
I don't have a lot of placement choices for my F15HP, but before I try I wanted to know how significant the dips around 58hz and 90hz are.
A graph should give an accurate visual representation of your FR. Scale your graph properly from 45-105 dB and 10-200 Hz to get a more standardized subwoofer graph. Despite the improper scaling, I am going to say that your FR is quite poor with what looks to be a variance of more than 15 dB between certain frequencies, vs the desired +/- 3 dB. In other words, some frequencies will be much louder or quieter than others.
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post #16612 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 12:05 PM
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A graph should give an accurate visual representation of your FR. Scale your graph properly from 45-105 dB and 10-200 Hz to get a more standardized subwoofer graph. Despite the improper scaling, I am going to say that your FR is quite poor with what looks to be a variance of more than 15 dB between certain frequencies, vs the desired +/- 3 dB. In other words, some frequencies will be much louder or quieter than others.
Like this? I think 20hz is the lowest it will show. Red is measured, green is corrected.
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post #16613 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 12:11 PM
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Like this? I think 20hz is the lowest it will show. Red is measured, green is corrected.
If green is sub only(no mains) it looks pretty good.
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post #16614 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 12:14 PM
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If green is sub only(no mains) it looks pretty good.
Yes, sub only. I uploaded a new graphic possibly while you were looking at the old one.
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post #16615 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 12:16 PM
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The room correction appears to have boosted where there were dips. Do you know if the Antimode 8033 Cinema would do the same?
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post #16616 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 12:17 PM
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Yes, sub only. I uploaded a new graphic possibly while you were looking at the old one.
I personally prefer to see graphs with mains in play. I care more about the combined frequency response with sub and mains interacting in the room. This tends to change the FR over a fairly broad spectrum above and below the crossover. So my goal is to work on the combined response.
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post #16617 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 12:19 PM
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I personally prefer to see graphs with mains in play. I care more about the combined frequency response with sub and mains interacting in the room. This tends to change the FR over a fairly broad spectrum above and below the crossover. So my goal is to work on the combined response.
I am limited to what ARC can do so only one at a time (as far as I know). I'd like to get REW setup but need a mic and an external sound card first.
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post #16618 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 12:35 PM
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I am limited to what ARC can do so only one at a time (as far as I know). I'd like to get REW setup but need a mic and an external sound card first.
Not very familiar with subwoofer automatic room correction. I use mini-DSP since I can make it do whatever I want regardless of what amp or receiver I use.
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post #16619 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 01:45 PM
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Has anyone tried stacking their FV15HP's? I'm considering this just to see what kind of tactile response I will get at the MLP. The subs would go from 12 ft away to about 5 ft away. I realize I would lose the smoothness throughout the rest of the room, but I rarely have company over to watch movies. Also, they would be corner loaded. They are just so damn big and heavy that it's keeping me from doing it.

Display - LG OLED
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Subs - Rythmik

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post #16620 of 40485 Old 09-09-2014, 02:06 PM
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Revel speakers and Rythmik sub?

I am close to purchasing some Revel speakers and a (one) Rythmik F15inch sealed subwoofer. Anyone have this set-up with the Revel Performa 3 F206 or F208?
Thanks,
Tom
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f12g subwoofer , integra dtc 9.8 , lv12r , Rythmik , Rythmik Audio , Rythmik Audio F12 Direct Servo Subwoofer , Rythmik Audio F15 Subwoofer , servo sub

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