Official Power Sound Audio Subwoofer Thread - Page 1293 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #38761 of 53060 Old 12-25-2017, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by climber07 View Post
Just as others have advised, dropping 125 bucks on a UMIK-1 and using REW will help you to dial in the dual subs so that you get the best response along with your speakers. Not having any bad habits or preconceived notions about crossovers or settings will help a lot too. I was resistant, at first, to use the higer (80 - 100 Hz) crossovers for my mains. I also wanted to initially use sub + mains. It didn't work at all. I now use a 100 Hz crossover all around for the speakers. Don't get me wrong, all speakers are different and some may play well with certain subs at certain freqs. Get a copy of REW, a UMIK-1, a few hours to play, and voila! Patience also goes a long way. You may not be pleased at first. Don't get discouraged. It takes time to get dual subs dialed in.
UMIK-1 ordered! Can't wait to tune the subs using REW

Merry XMAS

-Tony
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post #38762 of 53060 Old 12-25-2017, 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Todeseng3l View Post
UMIK-1 ordered! Can't wait to tune the subs using REW

Merry XMAS

-Tony
I was looking at the JTR facebook and someone commented:

"Captivator 4000 vs S7201, now that will be quite an interesting fight!"

Jeff replied:

"If you look at Data-Bass, four of the LMS Ultra 5400 18" drivers with thousands of watts each would fall short of Captivator 4000ULF on the bottomend. It would take eight Daytona UM18-22 drivers to match the Captivator 4000ULF output 10-16hz and the UM18-22 is a higher displacement driver than what psa has."

I have attached the image that Jeff was referencing. I don't know how he can make that assumption?
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post #38763 of 53060 Old 12-25-2017, 08:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todeseng3l View Post
I was looking at the JTR facebook and someone commented:

"Captivator 4000 vs S7201, now that will be quite an interesting fight!"

Jeff replied:

"If you look at Data-Bass, four of the LMS Ultra 5400 18" drivers with thousands of watts each would fall short of Captivator 4000ULF on the bottomend. It would take eight Daytona UM18-22 drivers to match the Captivator 4000ULF output 10-16hz and the UM18-22 is a higher displacement driver than what psa has."

I have attached the image that Jeff was referencing. I don't know how he can make that assumption?
Looks like he's comparing his ported 4000ULF to sealed UM-18s. Port the UM-18s and tune to 12-14hz and you have a much different outcome.
As noted, the UM-18 and TC Ultra "systems" were measured in sealed cabs, not LLT ported.

I also don't see a reason to only apply 1000 watts into the TC Ultra drivers when they can handle a bit more. There's probably some other content in that comment section that isn't pasted here.
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post #38764 of 53060 Old 12-25-2017, 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by scott_richardson View Post
Hi all. I have a S3600i that I purchased this year.



It's been working fine, but today it won't power on. Nothing. It's barely been used and I'm at a loss as to what might have happened.



Everything else in our room is working fine.



Is there any way to determine what the problem is? And any easy way to fix it? It's holiday season and we're about to have guests and a party and was looking forward to using the sub for movies and party.



Is it feasible to unscrew the amp plate to determine if a fuse inside is blown? (Again, unsure how since we have circuit breakers in the house, and nothing else is having issues, and the sub itself never goes past 3 / 12 on the dial.



Any help is greatly appreciated. Am a little bummed given the ~$4000 price tag I paid in AUD. Otherwise this unit has been incredible.



Scott


Have you checked the basic stuff like ensuring the power chord is plugged in properly and have tried plugging it into another outlet? Seems like the amp. I would try and get Tom on chat. He is always on.


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post #38765 of 53060 Old 12-25-2017, 11:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Todeseng3l View Post
I don't know how he can make that assumption?
It's not really an assumption, more like physics & math.

10 - 16 Hz is a pretty narrow band (⅔ of an octave). Rest assured the S7201 will produce more output above 30Hz or so. I believe this was all discussed in the 7201 thread a while back.
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post #38766 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 12:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott_richardson View Post



Is there any way to determine what the problem is? And any easy way to fix it? It's holiday season and we're about to have guests and a party and was looking forward to using the sub for movies and party.



Is it feasible to unscrew the amp plate to determine if a fuse inside is blown? (Again, unsure how since we have circuit breakers in the house, and nothing else is having issues, and the sub itself never goes past 3 / 12 on the dial.



Scott

If you’ve checked the power and RCA cables and outlets, and neither driver is moving at all, it’s likely the amp (could still be a signal or receiver issue). I’d say you can safely go ahead and pop out the plate amp, as you’ll need to do this to test the drivers anyway or if the amp needs to be returned. To test the drivers, touch a 9 volt battery to the leads of each driver and see if the cone moves in or out (movement either way is good).

I had a capacitor blow on one of my first PSA sub amps just a few months in, and Tom sent me out a new amp the next day. Failures like this are rare, but they do still happen. Tom has mentioned it’s often some very minor component, like a ten cent capacitor failure, that ruins even a well built amp. I hope this gets resolved quickly!

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post #38767 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 01:57 AM
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Originally Posted by imureh View Post
Have you checked the basic stuff like ensuring the power chord is plugged in properly and have tried plugging it into another outlet? Seems like the amp. I would try and get Tom on chat. He is always on.
Yeah definitely tried all that. I will say that the power cable that plugs into the sub plate amp doesn't feel all that snug. It wobbles quite a bit when it's "all the way in". Same for any cable I try though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sekosche View Post
If you’ve checked the power and RCA cables and outlets, and neither driver is moving at all, it’s likely the amp (could still be a signal or receiver issue). I’d say you can safely go ahead and pop out the plate amp, as you’ll need to do this to test the drivers anyway or if the amp needs to be returned. To test the drivers, touch a 9 volt battery to the leads of each driver and see if the cone moves in or out (movement either way is good).

I had a capacitor blow on one of my first PSA sub amps just a few months in, and Tom sent me out a new amp the next day. Failures like this are rare, but they do still happen. Tom has mentioned it’s often some very minor component, like a ten cent capacitor failure, that ruins even a well built amp. I hope this gets resolved quickly!
I did peer inside but didn't want to touch anything just yet - upon removing the plate, there's very tight cabling that connects that circuitry to even more circuitry mounted to another internal side of the sub - assuming that's the amplifier or power supply unit, while the plate is the DSP and connections?

There's no light at all when I flick the toggle to the permanent ON position, so it would suggest an amp/plate issue.

I'll wait for Tom/Jim to come back to me through my distributor who I have contacted today. Peter from Deep Hz audio jumped straight onto it and contacted Tom (Christmas Day for USA). I am super grateful for them even taking a look at my enquiry at this time of year. Such great guys at PSA and Deep Hz Audio.

As you can imagine - just desperate to enjoy this system now that I am FINALLY on 2 weeks holidays. 2 days in, and bam, no sub!!
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post #38768 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by scott_richardson View Post
Yeah definitely tried all that. I will say that the power cable that plugs into the sub plate amp doesn't feel all that snug. It wobbles quite a bit when it's "all the way in". Same for any cable I try though.



I did peer inside but didn't want to touch anything just yet - upon removing the plate, there's very tight cabling that connects that circuitry to even more circuitry mounted to another internal side of the sub - assuming that's the amplifier or power supply unit, while the plate is the DSP and connections?

There's no light at all when I flick the toggle to the permanent ON position, so it would suggest an amp/plate issue.

I'll wait for Tom/Jim to come back to me through my distributor who I have contacted today. Peter from Deep Hz audio jumped straight onto it and contacted Tom (Christmas Day for USA). I am super grateful for them even taking a look at my enquiry at this time of year. Such great guys at PSA and Deep Hz Audio.

As you can imagine - just desperate to enjoy this system now that I am FINALLY on 2 weeks holidays. 2 days in, and bam, no sub!!
That's great that Peter's already on the case.
As fantastic as Tom's customer service is, I think Peter may have bim beat. I have NEVER read a negative comment regarding Peter's customer service in all my years on Aussie AV forums. PSA couldn't have picked a better representative for their brand in Australia.

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post #38769 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by scott_richardson View Post
Yeah definitely tried all that. I will say that the power cable that plugs into the sub plate amp doesn't feel all that snug. It wobbles quite a bit when it's "all the way in". Same for any cable I try though.



I did peer inside but didn't want to touch anything just yet - upon removing the plate, there's very tight cabling that connects that circuitry to even more circuitry mounted to another internal side of the sub - assuming that's the amplifier or power supply unit, while the plate is the DSP and connections?

There's no light at all when I flick the toggle to the permanent ON position, so it would suggest an amp/plate issue.

I'll wait for Tom/Jim to come back to me through my distributor who I have contacted today. Peter from Deep Hz audio jumped straight onto it and contacted Tom (Christmas Day for USA). I am super grateful for them even taking a look at my enquiry at this time of year. Such great guys at PSA and Deep Hz Audio.

As you can imagine - just desperate to enjoy this system now that I am FINALLY on 2 weeks holidays. 2 days in, and bam, no sub!!
I believe the 3600 and 3000 amps consist of two ~700W? amp modules, one for each driver, the other board you see is the other half of the amp.
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post #38770 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 05:48 AM
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The cat finally decided to check out the 7201 for hidden Christmas presents after walking along the back of the couch. Needless to say it was powered off and I was watching closely. Fortunately he prefers to claw the cloth on the couch versus the PSA textured finish.
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post #38771 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Todeseng3l View Post
I was looking at the JTR facebook and someone commented:

"Captivator 4000 vs S7201, now that will be quite an interesting fight!"

Jeff replied:

"If you look at Data-Bass, four of the LMS Ultra 5400 18" drivers with thousands of watts each would fall short of Captivator 4000ULF on the bottomend. It would take eight Daytona UM18-22 drivers to match the Captivator 4000ULF output 10-16hz and the UM18-22 is a higher displacement driver than what psa has."

I have attached the image that Jeff was referencing. I don't know how he can make that assumption?
Hi,

First, congratulations on your purchase of dual S7201's! To add to the two good posts that already addressed your question, I don't think there is anything especially negative in what was said. Ported subs just have a huge advantage within a certain limited bandwidth, and 10Hz to 16Hz is a very limited bandwidth.

There have always been some discussions about just how important SPL drag racing is when we compare subwoofers. The fact that a particular sub can produce more max output than another sub, at a particular frequency, is completely irrelevant if both subs produce sufficient undistorted SPL at the frequencies we care about.

You may very well have the most powerful sealed subs currently produced. I would be extremely surprised if you don't have all of the SPL you could want at every frequency. And, as for the 10Hz to 16Hz range, even in a large room you will be getting some room gain at those very low frequencies, which will augment the SPL that your subs can produce on their own. Depending on subwoofer placement, you may get some pretty serious SPL well into single digits.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #38772 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 07:43 AM
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Exactly...well put Mike. It's common on AVS to focus solely on 10-20hz..but the reality is very little content ever digs down that low. Now I am not saying 10-20hz does not matter because it does. What I am saying is do not strictly compare subs based on that output alone. Also it takes a much greater amount of SPL difference in those frequencies to realize a difference. Around 30hz we can tell +3db of difference pretty easily. Down below 16hz it might take 6-8db more spl to notice a difference. Infrasonics are not impressive on thier own. What they do is add a weight or presence to the fundamental or higher frequencies. So yes it is important to have a sub imo that can reach down into the teens, but I would not get worried about comparing which one has 2db more output.

That being said, Jeff is right. The Cap4000 ULF will be substantially stronger then a S7201 down in the 10-16hz, but the S7201 will be no slouch. The S7201 will also sound more powerful 90% of the time with most source material, unless you play the EOT intro on loop back.
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post #38773 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 07:47 AM
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Comparing ported to sealed doesn't make much sense. There's a market for sealed and ported, which is why Jeff sells the S1 and S2 in addition to his ported subs.
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post #38774 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Pradeep2 View Post
I believe the 3600 and 3000 amps consist of two ~700W? amp modules, one for each driver, the other board you see is the other half of the amp.
This is true. The subs with dual drivers actually have two amp modules, one connected to each driver... that's why anyone with dual drivers hear a "click click" when their subs come on, it's both modules powering up.

I actually had to replace an amp on my first V3600. I called Tom, told him the problem and he literally had a new amp in my hands the very next day. Jim sent me an email with pictures showing step by step instructions on how to change out the amp. I was up and running in an hour. It did require removing both drivers because the wiring is tight and the drivers have to be disconnected first. A little forewarning, the 18" drivers are on the heavy side.

My take away from this was electrical things can have issues so you want to make sure you buy from a company that cares about its customers and no one cares more about its customers than Tom and Jim.

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post #38775 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

First, congratulations on your purchase of dual S7201's! To add to the two good posts that already addressed your question, I don't think there is anything especially negative in what was said. Ported subs just have a huge advantage within a certain limited bandwidth, and 10Hz to 16Hz is a very limited bandwidth.

There have always been some discussions about just how important SPL drag racing is when we compare subwoofers. The fact that a particular sub can produce more max output than another sub, at a particular frequency, is completely irrelevant if both subs produce sufficient undistorted SPL at the frequencies we care about.

You may very well have the most powerful sealed subs currently produced. I would be extremely surprised if you don't have all of the SPL you could want at every frequency. And, as for the 10Hz to 16Hz range, even in a large room you will be getting some room gain at those very low frequencies, which will augment the SPL that your subs can produce on their own. Depending on subwoofer placement, you may get some pretty serious SPL well into single digits.

Regards,
Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
Exactly...well put Mike. It's common on AVS to focus solely on 10-20hz..but the reality is very little content ever digs down that low. Now I am not saying 10-20hz does not matter because it does. What I am saying is do not strictly compare subs based on that output alone. Also it takes a much greater amount of SPL difference in those frequencies to realize a difference. Around 30hz we can tell +3db of difference pretty easily. Down below 16hz it might take 6-8db more spl to notice a difference. Infrasonics are not impressive on thier own. What they do is add a weight or presence to the fundamental or higher frequencies. So yes it is important to have a sub imo that can reach down into the teens, but I would not get worried about comparing which one has 2db more output.

That being said, Jeff is right. The Cap4000 ULF will be substantially stronger then a S7201 down in the 10-16hz, but the S7201 will be no slouch. The S7201 will also sound more powerful 90% of the time with most source material, unless you play the EOT intro on loop back.
Great points by both of you. Another thing to remember when you start drag racing subs is your own listening habits. If you aren't pushing your sub to its limits in a particular range then it really doesn't matter if another sub is stronger in that range. If your sub still has gas in the tank then if you want more output just turn up the sub's gain or go into the AVR and turn up the trim (this is assuming the two subs being compared have similar capabilities to start with of course).

On another note, if someone who owns a single sub is finding that they are at or near their the subs limits I would suggest buying a 2nd sub instead trading in and trading up to a bigger sub. That way you get the added output capabilities and you get the benefit of smoothing (if set up properly).

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The cat finally decided to check out the 7201 for hidden Christmas presents after walking along the back of the couch. Needless to say it was powered off and I was watching closely. Fortunately he prefers to claw the cloth on the couch versus the PSA textured finish.
Those dang cats lol! Luckily I dont have any ports or slots at the moment with my subs or else she would be the one inside them! At the moment she takes refuge on top of the AVR , I'm pretty sure she enjoys the warmth it gives off. Expensive cat heater!
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Man been missing alot on the PSA site , hope everyone had a great Christmas holiday! Not much sub wise on my end , been contemplating the 3rd PSA sub thing for a bit but seeing my lights dim when the 2 S36's get pushing makes wonder if the house could handle it? Though I dont need it!! The GF got me an Xbox1X for Xmas and I was fighting with the audio settings for a bit trying to get the atmos thing going , but thats an XB1 thread question. But I will tell you one thing , that XB1X has some power to it. I downloaded Gears of War 4 and have been playing it most of the weekend. The GFs sisters family came over while I was playing it and they commented that it felt like they were in a movie theater! Gears has some really bass heavy light flickering scenes to it and is absolutely gorgeous to look at , its like you are directing a sci-fi movie in some scenes. I dont know if I have the atmos thing running correctly , but the bass is definitely working and sounds great!
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post #38778 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 12:52 PM
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Your lights dimming could indicate you have too much on one circuit? How many cicruits and amps do you have to play with?
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post #38779 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 12:58 PM
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Those dang cats lol! Luckily I dont have any ports or slots at the moment with my subs or else she would be the one inside them! At the moment she takes refuge on top of the AVR , I'm pretty sure she enjoys the warmth it gives off. Expensive cat heater!
Just finished watching Dunkirk again and cat was sitting on the other arm of the couch. I guess he likes the rumble of the couch. Wife's been telling me he gets nervous when its cranked now I have video of him totally chilling while he experiences the bass thru his ass. At the end there's a scene where you are below the water and the height channels are in heavy use he's cocking his head around at the ceiling like a curious pup.
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post #38780 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 03:05 PM
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Wanted to give a shout out to Tom V. for the PSA Fantasy Football league this year. Somehow I snuck by with a 7-6 record to win the league. Top prize is the ANTI-MODE 8033S-II, which looks to be a really cool gadget. Thanks again to Tom and look forward to playing in the league again next year.

Subs>RBH I-12e, I-12. HSU VTF-15H mk2. Monolith THX 12(x2), THX 10(x2). XTZ 1X12. SVS PB-1000(x2). Speakers>JBL Studio 270/235c/230/225c. Sony CS3/CS8/CS5. QA 3020i/3090Ci, 2020i/2000c. Monolith Cinema 5bs. Polk RTiA1/CSiA4. Other Audio>Sony MDR-Z7m2,V6, XB900n,700,XB32,XB31. Sennheiser HD58X,HD4.50,PC37X. HiFiMAN HE4XX. Philips SHP9500. SIVGA SV004. SA HDTwo. HyperX CloudPS4. TB Elite AtlasAero. LG FH6,RK8,RK7,PK5. HK Onyx Studio4(x2).
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post #38781 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 03:40 PM
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Anti-mode are great devices...especially if your AVR lacks a good room correction program.
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post #38782 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 04:06 PM
 
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Originally Posted by Pradeep2 View Post
Your lights dimming could indicate you have too much on one circuit? How many cicruits and amps do you have to play with?
When we remodeled during the summer , the guy told me he was putting a 20amp just for my entertainment area. I think its a 15amp. I just have TV , 2 S3601's , AVR , XBOX , cable box that I know of hooked up to it. It did pop one day when I was showing off for buddies with the EOT intro fairly loud , but I did have another 80inch and cable hooked up outside that runs off that circuit. I may try to run 1 S36 off another part of the house to see how it acts. When they lights do dim , its not the TV area just other parts of the house. Not sure if that matters.

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Just finished watching Dunkirk again and cat was sitting on the other arm of the couch. I guess he likes the rumble of the couch. Wife's been telling me he gets nervous when its cranked now I have video of him totally chilling while he experiences the bass thru his ass. At the end there's a scene where you are below the water and the height channels are in heavy use he's cocking his head around at the ceiling like a curious pup.
lol...Mine will usually sit on the seat that is closest to the corner loaded S36 and just sleep right thru everything. Or right on top of the AVR as shown haha...I dont play overly loud so maybe thats why they are cool with it.
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post #38783 of 53060 Old 12-26-2017, 06:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Jsnow17 View Post
When we remodeled during the summer , the guy told me he was putting a 20amp just for my entertainment area. I think its a 15amp. I just have TV , 2 S3601's , AVR , XBOX , cable box that I know of hooked up to it. It did pop one day when I was showing off for buddies with the EOT intro fairly loud , but I did have another 80inch and cable hooked up outside that runs off that circuit. I may try to run 1 S36 off another part of the house to see how it acts. When they lights do dim , its not the TV area just other parts of the house. Not sure if that matters.
Did you have it inspected when it was installed? Doesn't sound like the breaker box is wired correctly. Voltage sag in other parts of the house for a 15A or 20A line isn't right. Was the outlet wired straight to the breaker box?

You can always check out the breaker box and see what amperage the circuit breaker for that circuit is. You can also open up the outlet and check to see if you have 12 AWG wire installed. 12 AWG is the minimum for 20A circuits. 14 AWG is used for 15A circuits.
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Power Sound Audio S7201 Quad 18" 4000W Sealed Subwoofer - Onkyo TX-NR3009 - Emotiva XPA-2 300 WPC - Polk Audio RTiA9 Mains - CSiA6 Center - F/XiA6 Surrounds - Epson 5030UB Projector - Multi-format 106" HD Gray screen - Samsung BD-F5900 3D Bluray - WDTV Live HD Media Player with 6TB External Storage - Nintendo Wii - XBox 360 - - XBox One S - Logitech Harmony One, and custom DIY media console...
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post #38784 of 53060 Old 12-27-2017, 09:14 AM
 
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Originally Posted by climber07 View Post
Did you have it inspected when it was installed? Doesn't sound like the breaker box is wired correctly. Voltage sag in other parts of the house for a 15A or 20A line isn't right. Was the outlet wired straight to the breaker box?

You can always check out the breaker box and see what amperage the circuit breaker for that circuit is. You can also open up the outlet and check to see if you have 12 AWG wire installed. 12 AWG is the minimum for 20A circuits. 14 AWG is used for 15A circuits.
Im having the box re-looked at soon. It does seem a bit odd after thinking I would have plenty of power going that way. I believe the 2nd guy I had look said it was 14awg , so that 15 amp thought seems true. We are in the middle of remodeling the restroom right now , so the power thing is next!
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post #38785 of 53060 Old 12-27-2017, 11:05 AM
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First, I hope everyone got what they wanted for Christmas.

I've been trying to talk my wife into a new sub ever since the last one died in 2015 with no success. But I think I've finally convinced her in a way I didn't expect. One of her stocking stuffers was the 2L.no recording of Kim Arnesan's Magnificat which is an amazing multichannel recording featuring an orchestra, female choir, soloist and a big pipe organ recorded in one of Norway's biggest cathedrals. And it's a beautiful sounding disc in our home theater room...but the lower vibrations of the pipe organ just aren't there since my AV123 RS750 tower speakers roll off below 38 hz. And she noticed! Not surprising since we met in college in the concert choir class where we sung in the college's large chapel which has a killer pipe organ.

So while everyone else is looking to get the best explosion or other low frequency movie sound out of their sub, my "in" with my wife looks like it will center around music. Go figure.

I'm still thinking the S3601 is going to be my choice considering that it fits behind my couch exactly according to the measurements. A ported sub still might be better considering trying to match the velocity of the pipe organ music and the fact we listen to more movies than music in this room, but form factor of the sub is a bit deal in a this room and the S3601 works well.
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post #38786 of 53060 Old 12-27-2017, 11:58 AM
 
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First, I hope everyone got what they wanted for Christmas.

I've been trying to talk my wife into a new sub ever since the last one died in 2015 with no success. But I think I've finally convinced her in a way I didn't expect. One of her stocking stuffers was the 2L.no recording of Kim Arnesan's Magnificat which is an amazing multichannel recording featuring an orchestra, female choir, soloist and a big pipe organ recorded in one of Norway's biggest cathedrals. And it's a beautiful sounding disc in our home theater room...but the lower vibrations of the pipe organ just aren't there since my AV123 RS750 tower speakers roll off below 38 hz. And she noticed! Not surprising since we met in college in the concert choir class where we sung in the college's large chapel which has a killer pipe organ.

So while everyone else is looking to get the best explosion or other low frequency movie sound out of their sub, my "in" with my wife looks like it will center around music. Go figure.

I'm still thinking the S3601 is going to be my choice considering that it fits behind my couch exactly according to the measurements. A ported sub still might be better considering trying to match the velocity of the pipe organ music and the fact we listen to more movies than music in this room, but form factor of the sub is a bit deal in a this room and the S3601 works well.
I have 2 of the S36's in quite a large room , roughly 30x30x8 probably a little less but regardless they fill up our whole house with bass!I havent played much organ music on them but there is one song that I listen to that has an organ , Lukas Graham "Once I was 7 years old" , towards the end of the song they have a pipe organ that digs fairly deep. I had the ported V1801's prior and really preferred the S36's sound over them. Granted its just a little piece of a song compared to a whole one , its all I gots to go off .
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post #38787 of 53060 Old 12-27-2017, 02:30 PM
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@Sevenfeet what are the dimensions of your room? A S3601 will fit the bill in smaller, sealed rooms [which allow for flat extension down to 16Hz with room gain & EQ]. Low-tuned ported subs are better able to reach flat to 16Hz without the aid of cabin gain.

For reproducing pipe organ you generally want high-excursion drivers. While the S3601 may be the best fit from PSAs line-up at the moment… I would speak to Tom about this prototype he showed: 18" driver with high-excursion (higher than the standard PSA driver) and dual passive radiators. I believe this would be the ultimate sub for reproducing pipe-organ for its size.


Edit: Tom stated that the PRs are reversed/facing-out in the picture for testing. A final product would keep the baskets inside of the box.
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Last edited by Marc Alexander; 12-27-2017 at 02:40 PM.
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post #38788 of 53060 Old 12-27-2017, 03:28 PM
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@Sevenfeet what are the dimensions of your room? A S3601 will fit the bill in smaller, sealed rooms [which allow for flat extension down to 16Hz with room gain & EQ]. Low-tuned ported subs are better able to reach flat to 16Hz without the aid of cabin gain.

For reproducing pipe organ you generally want high-excursion drivers. While the S3601 may be the best fit from PSAs line-up at the moment… I would speak to Tom about this prototype he showed: 18" driver with high-excursion (higher than the standard PSA driver) and dual passive radiators. I believe this would be the ultimate sub for reproducing pipe-organ for its size.


Edit: Tom stated that the PRs are reversed/facing-out in the picture for testing. A final product would keep the baskets inside of the box.
My room is irregular shaped since it's a bonus room in our house and the laundry room intrudes into it. But overall it's about 17'x22'x12' where the ceiling is a barn style. So I estimate about 4300 cu ft. I can close the doors to the room (two) but we usually leave them open.

I'm very curious about the prototype. I have time since I'm not looking to make a purchase immediately, especially after this past Christmas. I'll have to reach out to Tom about specs and when this thing might see the light of day.

The V3601 is appealing except I think the form factor is all wrong for me. I don't think I'd ever convince my wife to take in a 44" high large box. Much easier to hide a lower profile box behind the couch.

Last edited by Sevenfeet; 12-27-2017 at 03:36 PM.
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post #38789 of 53060 Old 12-27-2017, 04:11 PM
 
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My room is irregular shaped since it's a bonus room in our house and the laundry room intrudes into it. But overall it's about 17'x22'x12' where the ceiling is a barn style. So I estimate about 4300 cu ft. I can close the doors to the room (two) but we usually leave them open.

I'm very curious about the prototype. I have time since I'm not looking to make a purchase immediately, especially after this past Christmas. I'll have to reach out to Tom about specs and when this thing might see the light of day.

The V3601 is appealing except I think the form factor is all wrong for me. I don't think I'd ever convince my wife to take in a 44" high large box. Much easier to hide a lower profile box behind the couch.
I am interested in that prototype too!! lol....since you were going to put it behind the couch anyway , a V36 can be laid on its side also.
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post #38790 of 53060 Old 12-27-2017, 06:45 PM
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Quote:
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@Sevenfeet what are the dimensions of your room? A S3601 will fit the bill in smaller, sealed rooms [which allow for flat extension down to 16Hz with room gain & EQ]. Low-tuned ported subs are better able to reach flat to 16Hz without the aid of cabin gain.

For reproducing pipe organ you generally want high-excursion drivers. While the S3601 may be the best fit from PSAs line-up at the moment… I would speak to Tom about this prototype he showed: 18" driver with high-excursion (higher than the standard PSA driver) and dual passive radiators. I believe this would be the ultimate sub for reproducing pipe-organ for its size.


Edit: Tom stated that the PRs are reversed/facing-out in the picture for testing. A final product would keep the baskets inside of the box.
With a 4kw speakerpower amp and the performance of a v3601 in the size of a v1801 I wouldn't expect much change from $3k when this comes out.
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