Official Power Sound Audio Subwoofer Thread - Page 1536 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #46051 of 50341 Old 12-02-2018, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by satsok View Post
Tom Vodhanel
when will we have products here?

https://www.powersoundaudio.eu/home
Have you asked ricky?
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post #46052 of 50341 Old 12-02-2018, 10:51 AM
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no

link ;
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post #46053 of 50341 Old 12-02-2018, 12:13 PM
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no

link ;
I believe this is it:

https://www.chromapure.co.uk/contact.asp

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post #46054 of 50341 Old 12-03-2018, 07:50 AM
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I am having my cousin come look at my power situation in my TV area , he had a couple recommendations like splitting the line in the breaker or something like that since my 20A is obviously not enough for 3 S36's . TV , AVR etc. A question I do have , is this affecting the performance on the S36's in any way or bad on the amps? I really dont hear a lack of performance except when I turn it loud on low bass heavy scenes/music and the breaker pops...Am I currently putting 87 octane in a car that requires 91???
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post #46055 of 50341 Old 12-04-2018, 06:28 AM
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I am having my cousin come look at my power situation in my TV area , he had a couple recommendations like splitting the line in the breaker or something like that since my 20A is obviously not enough for 3 S36's . TV , AVR etc. A question I do have , is this affecting the performance on the S36's in any way or bad on the amps? I really dont hear a lack of performance except when I turn it loud on low bass heavy scenes/music and the breaker pops...Am I currently putting 87 octane in a car that requires 91???

Triple 3600 series pushed far will definitely bring the single 20A to its knees. A couple years ago, I measured (at the breaker, Fluke tools) about 27A peak pull from a single S3000i on its own breaker using the Bass I Love You track. A single 15A will handle short bursts of that, but not sustained, obviously. I only mention the measured current so you have an idea of what you're working with. Now, these are absolute peaks and would represent the 0.0001% of the time you may actually use the system at those levels and playing tracks that are specially mastered for the extreme ULF. (Read: not real world tests) I'm not an electrician by any means, but I'd wager you'd want a pair of 20A breakers and, dare I say, a fourth S3600 series to help increase your amp and driver efficiencies across the board. When you don't have to run the gear as hard and you create more electrical headroom, it's simply easier on everything and would reduce your peak electrical requirements.


These SpeakerPower amps are amazing and can make some ridiculous power. I've never seen anything damaged by the handful of times I've tripped my breakers, but I did replace the breaker that feeds those outlets as it became easier and easier to trip over time. I didn't know it before then, but breakers do wear out in time and now I haven't tripped it a single time since replacing it. My home is only 13 years old, too.


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post #46056 of 50341 Old 12-04-2018, 12:28 PM
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And less than 24 hours later, my wife does this. Still lovin’ the new sub though, even if the setup is not optimal.

Looks like the Nutcracker is in for a good ride.
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post #46057 of 50341 Old 12-04-2018, 12:35 PM
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Looks like the Nutcracker is in for a good ride.
Ironically you post this. Nutcracker fell over while cranking the opening theme for Doctor Who! Love the avatar!
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post #46058 of 50341 Old 12-04-2018, 02:18 PM
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Originally Posted by k1n3t1k View Post
Triple 3600 series pushed far will definitely bring the single 20A to its knees. A couple years ago, I measured (at the breaker, Fluke tools) about 27A peak pull from a single S3000i on its own breaker using the Bass I Love You track. A single 15A will handle short bursts of that, but not sustained, obviously. I only mention the measured current so you have an idea of what you're working with. Now, these are absolute peaks and would represent the 0.0001% of the time you may actually use the system at those levels and playing tracks that are specially mastered for the extreme ULF. (Read: not real world tests) I'm not an electrician by any means, but I'd wager you'd want a pair of 20A breakers and, dare I say, a fourth S3600 series to help increase your amp and driver efficiencies across the board. When you don't have to run the gear as hard and you create more electrical headroom, it's simply easier on everything and would reduce your peak electrical requirements.


These SpeakerPower amps are amazing and can make some ridiculous power. I've never seen anything damaged by the handful of times I've tripped my breakers, but I did replace the breaker that feeds those outlets as it became easier and easier to trip over time. I didn't know it before then, but breakers do wear out in time and now I haven't tripped it a single time since replacing it. My home is only 13 years old, too.


Travis
Good to know , at first I thought my contractor screwed me over somehow because it initially blew with just 2 playing the EOT intro fairly loud! I also had my 2500watt Samsung GIGA series bumping outside during a pool party , so that probably had something to do with it as well. I do have a 4th sitting in the garage , its an S3000i that I thought about adding to the mix but I dont think I need it lol..I will usually play at a moderate volume that has sufficient bass with the current 3 S36's , occasionally during parties after a few drinks I tend to go into show off mode only to have the breaker pop lol..."Nice show Conehead" comes to mind..I will see what my cousin recommends doing with my breaker.. He made it seem like it would be pretty easy , but of course he is an electrician for Caltrans so it may take 6 days and might have 4 other guys standing around supervising...
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post #46059 of 50341 Old 12-04-2018, 09:44 PM
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@basshead81 These would look nice with your subs https://www.powersoundaudio.com/coll...ShnJHrWEFXAKrY
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post #46060 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 06:50 AM
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I was looking at them and going back through the data. The thing is under 30hz a V1510 measures right with it. If they were SE drivers with ICE power it would be tempting. Damn good looking subs though. That design should of never been discontinued.
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post #46061 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
I was looking at them and going back through the data. The thing is under 30hz a V1510 measures right with it. If they were SE drivers with ICE power it would be tempting. Damn good looking subs though. That design should of never been discontinued.
It's interesting you mention the V1510. I noticed the response curve of this sub seems to dig even deeper than the v1811. Does it seem accurate to say the v1510 has better extension than then v1811?

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post #46062 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 02:24 PM
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Yippee, just order my second v1811. They will be placed in opposite front corners. Should I level match volume and distance before running YPAO? I’m assuming they should be as close as possible before messing with YPAO. They will be on the same output. I use the other output for shakers. Thanks
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post #46063 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by butie120 View Post
It's interesting you mention the V1510. I noticed the response curve of this sub seems to dig even deeper than the v1811. Does it seem accurate to say the v1510 has better extension than then v1811?


I think so. Bigger cabinet



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post #46064 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 03:49 PM
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Yippee, just order my second v1811. They will be placed in opposite front corners. Should I level match volume and distance before running YPAO? I’m assuming they should be as close as possible before messing with YPAO. They will be on the same output. I use the other output for shakers. Thanks
If both subs are going to be up front (probably not ideal) and equidistant to the MLP, there should be no need to mess with the delay knobs. If they are not equidistant to the MLP and you have REW, you can use the impulse response to time align them before or after running YPAO.

Before running YPAO, you will want to gain match the subs (both gain dials at the same setting) so they are contributing equally to the room.
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post #46065 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 03:51 PM
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If both subs are going to be up front (probably not ideal) and equidistant to the MLP, there should be no need to mess with the delay knobs. If they are not equidistant to the MLP and you have REW, you can use the impulse response to time align them before or after running YPAO.

Before running YPAO, you will want to gain match the subs (both gain dials at the same setting) so they are contributing equally to the room.
Awesome. Thanks
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post #46066 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 05:09 PM
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Random: I'm going to finally be changing the sensitivity on my umik-1 tonight and remember Jeff giving a pretty good detailed explanation on this thread of how to do it. My phone doesn't allow me to search anything on here but if someone can point me in the right direction plz, thank you.
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post #46067 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 05:13 PM
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It's interesting you mention the V1510. I noticed the response curve of this sub seems to dig even deeper than the v1811. Does it seem accurate to say the v1510 has better extension than then v1811?


Yes that is correct.


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post #46068 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by GeoJustGeo View Post
Random: I'm going to finally be changing the sensitivity on my umik-1 tonight and remember Jeff giving a pretty good detailed explanation on this thread of how to do it. My phone doesn't allow me to search anything on here but if someone can point me in the right direction plz, thank you.


https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...6&share_type=t


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post #46069 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 06:14 PM
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Ray, thanks but the link didnt come thru
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post #46070 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 06:38 PM
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Ray, thanks but the link didnt come thru

Try this Geo


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/showt...2020?page=4182



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post #46071 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 08:35 PM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
I was looking at them and going back through the data. The thing is under 30hz a V1510 measures right with it. If they were SE drivers with ICE power it would be tempting. Damn good looking subs though. That design should of never been discontinued.
I love the look of them too. Ask Tom for a ICE/SE package quote
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post #46072 of 50341 Old 12-05-2018, 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by butie120 View Post
It's interesting you mention the V1510. I noticed the response curve of this sub seems to dig even deeper than the v1811. Does it seem accurate to say the v1510 has better extension than then v1811?
Yes I have mentioned this before. The V1811 bursts higher, but if you notice the burst output is much stronger then the Long term compression output. So the last 3-4db of it's headroom down low is suffering from vent compression. The V1510 on the other hand LTC sweep tracks right with it's burst numbers. So it can reach it's limits with no vent compression. The V1811 is much stronger above 30hz, but it's not any stronger down low then the other premium 15" subs. Not a bad thing, it's still a great sub with a ton of mid bass slam. That is where I noticed it's advantage over my 15's.
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post #46073 of 50341 Old 12-06-2018, 01:35 AM
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Thanks Ray!
I finally did it! After going from 18db to 6db gain, I checked to see if the gain was still the same after editing the file and I'm 0.5db - 1.0db off, not bad. Its 2am so i couldnt get to do compression sweeps but I got to 110db with lots of headroom on the Mic left, that in itself feels great cuz usually by 110db it would tell me I only have like 3db left of headroom. Can't wait till the morning to really see the limits of my setup!
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post #46074 of 50341 Old 12-06-2018, 06:20 AM
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Originally Posted by scottiemon View Post
And less than 24 hours later, my wife does this. Still lovin’ the new sub though, even if the setup is not optimal.
I remember those days . It's all good, happy wife happy life, lol.
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post #46075 of 50341 Old 12-06-2018, 06:30 AM
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Yes I have mentioned this before. The V1811 bursts higher, but if you notice the burst output is much stronger then the Long term compression output. So the last 3-4db of it's headroom down low is suffering from vent compression. The V1510 on the other hand LTC sweep tracks right with it's burst numbers. So it can reach it's limits with no vent compression. The V1811 is much stronger above 30hz, but it's not any stronger down low then the other premium 15" subs. Not a bad thing, it's still a great sub with a ton of mid bass slam. That is where I noticed it's advantage over my 15's.
Remember the days when as long as you had 20hz and above covered you were golden. I remember buying subs from the local AV store like Sound and Vision and Tweeter and thinking they were monsters and I was completely happy then I had to join AVS and then the sickness got worse and then before you know it you have 6 18inch drivers and you still want moar . I really think in the " real world" a pair of V1810's would blow the average person away and they wouldn't even think about another sub for the next 20 years. I bet your non AVS friends walk into your family room and see your 3 subs and they think you are completely nuts .

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Last edited by Mike Butny; 12-06-2018 at 06:33 AM.
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post #46076 of 50341 Old 12-06-2018, 07:41 AM
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Thanks Ray!
I finally did it! After going from 18db to 6db gain, I checked to see if the gain was still the same after editing the file and I'm 0.5db - 1.0db off, not bad. Its 2am so i couldnt get to do compression sweeps but I got to 110db with lots of headroom on the Mic left, that in itself feels great cuz usually by 110db it would tell me I only have like 3db left of headroom. Can't wait till the morning to really see the limits of my setup!
With the sensitivity tweak, I went from 18dB to 0dB gain. I can measure more then 125dB. Your subs are closer to the MLP as well.
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post #46077 of 50341 Old 12-06-2018, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post
Remember the days when as long as you had 20hz and above covered you were golden. I remember buying subs from the local AV store like Sound and Vision and Tweeter and thinking they were monsters and I was completely happy then I had to join AVS and then the sickness got worse and then before you know it you have 6 18inch drivers and you still want moar . I really think in the " real world" a pair of V1810's would blow the average person away and they wouldn't even think about another sub for the next 20 years. I bet your non AVS friends walk into your family room and see your 3 subs and they think you are completely nuts .
Agree 100% ....a pair of V1811's is well beyond what most normal people would ever utilize. Hell even a pair of 1510DF's would check that box. My brother has a single XV15 in his 10k basement with 110" PJ and honestly it does well. It's sounds about like my system at half volume...lol

And yes anytime I mention my setup or anybody sees it they think I am nuts. Then I explain how modest my system is in compared to other bassheads out there...nothing but blank stares.
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post #46078 of 50341 Old 12-06-2018, 09:00 AM
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With the sensitivity tweak, I went from 18dB to 0dB gain. I can measure more then 125dB. Your subs are closer to the MLP as well.
My headroom on the Mic seems to maybe max out at about 124-125 going from 18db gain to 6db gain.

On another note, I found each subs limit individually and their limit together! Now I gotta tweak my system to reach those max safe zones (pre-compression)...this is gonna be fun
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post #46079 of 50341 Old 12-06-2018, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by GeoJustGeo View Post
My headroom on the Mic seems to maybe max out at about 124-125 going from 18db gain to 6db gain.

On another note, I found each subs limit individually and their limit together! Now I gotta tweak my system to reach those max safe zones (pre-compression)...this is gonna be fun
So if you change the gain to 0dB gain, your mic's headroom will be higher.

I never paid much attention to the UMIK-1 headroom numbers. I just take the measurements. Since the sub is 14 ft from my MLP, the sub's limit is reached before the UMIK-1's limit is.

Yes on finding the limits. Many people run the FR. Not many run the compression sweeps. Of course CS is not for REW beginners.
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Speakers: L/C/R: JTR Neosis 212HT. Surrounds: Jamo C103, KEF Q100, Polk Audio RTiA3.
Subwoofer: JTR Captivator 4000ULF.
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FS: Jamo C103, KEF Q100 and Polk RTiA3
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Have any of the PSA products been submitted to data-bass.com for testing?

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