Official Power Sound Audio Subwoofer Thread - Page 1574 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #47191 of 49731 Old 03-12-2019, 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
I can agree with that. The main issue I was addressing is the hearsay that it doesn't go very deep. I'm sure the sound signature is different. It would be similar as comparing a 30hz tune to a 18hz tune. 18hz sub sounds smoother up top. The problem is when you start tuning too deep you lose some upper end efficiency and that can effect how the upper end sounds. As you mentioned in your review, the V3601 sounded better with music and that is part of the reason. So now it comes down to simple fact, do we trade off upper end efficiency and Dynamics for 6hz deeper extension so we can gain a better experience less then 10% of the time unless we are playing test tones and cherry picked bass demo scenes?
The interesting question is whether it is only just <10% of the time. @Hopinater mentioned that with the 2400ULF, there was extra weight in the sound even in >20Hz frequencies. Perhaps @imureh has noticed this too with his FV18's vs his old V1801's.

With regards to losing some upper efficiency, those who spend the money on a low-tuned sub are serious about bass, and are likely getting duals (or more) as a consequence. With duals, I'm sure there's no deficiency from 20-120Hz even with low-tune subs.

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post #47192 of 49731 Old 03-12-2019, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Ferrari_1996 View Post
The interesting question is whether it is only just <10% of the time. @Hopinater mentioned that with the 2400ULF, there was extra weight in the sound even in higher-than-tune frequencies. Perhaps @imureh has noticed this too with his FV18 vs his old V1801's.

With regards to losing some upper efficiency, those who spend the money on a low-tuned sub are serious about bass, and are likely getting duals (or more) as a consequence. With duals, I'm sure there's no deficiency from 20-120Hz even with low-tune subs.
Most of what we hear/feel can be summarized quickly. Show us the FR, how the FR changes with volume, and any audible distortions along the way.

That's really it.

Now, please pay attention to the first word---MOST..

And then the last consideration as well---any audible distortions.

I would dare to say that if we minimize/eliminate the last then the first becomes all or almost all. Of course that is easier said than done.


Also, with regards to "mid/upper bass deficiency" that's may be equally as complex. How do we define that? I've seen countless posts suggesting one hop2400 would have so much mid/upper bass headroom it's "silly" for anyone to worry about that. But then if you look at it's capabilities objectively we find a single hsu 15 inch sub($900?) is something like +/- 0.75dB from 25-100hz. When we're talking "monster" subs in the $2500 and up range I don't think anyone prefers settling for hsu15 capabilities over the large majority of the operating bandwidth. And that's no dig on hsu of course...everything they offer is stout. But it is what it is---a single 15/$900. Of course many will say sacrificing a ton of headroom 25-100hz is fine with them because they must have super low tuned. And those models seems to be selling as fast as jtr and rythmik can ship them so that's not an unpopular POV..

So it's just best to keep perspective on all of it. Understand the compromises involved and all that.

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post #47193 of 49731 Old 03-12-2019, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
One myth that needs to be put to bed is that frequency response and compression sweeps tell the whole tale. Some of the conventional wisdom we may have had is being challenged now by actual testing/listening. The scientific method is alive and well.


Yes, the room is of utmost importance. I greatly applaud the efforts of @mthomas47 over the past year to really focus on how to recommend the right subs based on user's subjective preferences and the room [along with budget, WAF, and other smaller factors].
Tom has addressed this topic so many times. What is there to gain for PSA at this point? The V36xx has been wildly successful. The banter on this forum of late has been highly productive IMO. The ID subwoofer offerings are only getting better and better (Reaction Audio is a very distant, fading memory in my mind).

I'm not sure I follow 100%. Why do you say a 18Hz tuned sub sounds smoother than a 30Hz tune?
Not necessarily. There will always be trade-offs but it is being proven that balancing it all is possible.

I can't agree with your assumption. We aren't talking about a better experience 10% of the time. What if the experience could be better 25%... 50%... or even 90% of the time? Would that change anything for you?
I know it's not going to happen, I was figuratively speaking.


Most of the testing and listening was not done blind and all the subs being compared were not setup and eq'd the same...so not apples to apples.


Normally subs tuned higher especially in the audible frequency range(30hz>) tend to sound boomy….not always but more then not.


I don't believe what folks "Think" they are hearing is the port tune difference...imo it's a difference in frequency response and harmonics.
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post #47194 of 49731 Old 03-12-2019, 11:29 PM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
Normally subs tuned higher especially in the audible frequency range(30hz>) tend to sound boomy….not always but more then not.
How do you attribute this to the port tune? That is not my experience, that the port tune explains boominess.
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I don't believe what folks "Think" they are hearing is the port tune difference...imo it's a difference in frequency response and harmonics.
That is your prerogative.
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post #47195 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
Also, with regards to "mid/upper bass deficiency" that's may be equally as complex. How do we define that? I've seen countless posts suggesting one hop2400 would have so much mid/upper bass headroom it's "silly" for anyone to worry about that. But then if you look at it's capabilities objectively we find a single hsu 15 inch sub($900?) is something like +/- 0.75dB from 25-100hz. When we're talking "monster" subs in the $2500 and up range I don't think anyone prefers settling for hsu15 capabilities over the large majority of the operating bandwidth. And that's no dig on hsu of course...everything they offer is stout. But it is what it is---a single 15/$900. Of course many will say sacrificing a ton of headroom 25-100hz is fine with them because they must have super low tuned. And those models seems to be selling as fast as jtr and rythmik can ship them so that's not an unpopular POV..

So it's just best to keep perspective on all of it. Understand the compromises involved and all that.

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
You keep saying Hop2400. I think you meant Cap2400? Just clarifying in case others who reads this know what you're talking about.
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post #47196 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
I know it's not going to happen, I was figuratively speaking.


Most of the testing and listening was not done blind and all the subs being compared were not setup and eq'd the same...so not apples to apples.


Normally subs tuned higher especially in the audible frequency range(30hz>) tend to sound boomy….not always but more then not.


I don't believe what folks "Think" they are hearing is the port tune difference...imo it's a difference in frequency response and harmonics.
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How do you attribute this to the port tune? That is not my experience, that the port tune explains boominess.

That is your prerogative.
I may be wrong but I believe you're trying to say subs with 30hz rolloff and not playing ULF very well? Usually boomy means too much bass piling up in corners and that is usually with below 40hz frequencies. So with higher port tune sub it should be less muddy since it rolls off much quicker than lower tune ported sub.

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post #47197 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
How do you attribute this to the port tune? That is not my experience, that the port tune explains boominess.

That is your prerogative.
Because subs that are tuned low( <20hz) output is not influenced by the port above 30hz where the frequencies are audible...you are hearing primarily the driver. If you tune a sub above 30hz, then the port is contributing to the output in the audible frequency range...so you can hear the port per say. Take a box store Klipsch sub12 and play some bass oriented music, place your head equidistant from the driver and port, you can hear the output switch between the port and driver. Now perform the same test with a sub tuned below 20hz and you wont hear the bass output switch between port and driver. On the Klipsch sub when the output switches to the port in the 35hz area the tonal balance of the sub changes.
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post #47198 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 07:33 AM
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You keep saying Hop2400. I think you meant Cap2400? Just clarifying in case others who reads this know what you're talking about.
Correct. I keep saying S3050 on the phone too instead of S3010...even after 8 months(?) of shipping them. I think I'm beginning to lose it.

Also, just so no one thinks i'm unfairly singling out the hop2...errr...cap2400....you can compare the fv18 to it as well. 25-80hz the $895 hsu actually outguns the fv18 slightly. Not quite the price differential of the cap2400/hsu but still HALF the pricing for the same output capabilities 25-80hz!

So?

Well, just be aware when shopping that going super low with the tuning point can mean you're literally halving the system capabilities(when comparing top notch ID stuff) over the majority of the operating bandwidth. It is worth it? Obviously that is a resounding yes for a sizable portion of the marketplace. This doesn't need Dick Tracy to figure out. We see daily comments from people receiving their new "low tuned" products as well as Enrico talking about being sold out on their offerings on a regular basis.

Flavor of the month? Maybe. But it's been the flavor of the month going on a year(?) now.

And how many times have we heard---lower output but deeper extension(sealed) means you can always add another sealed to raise headroom.(usually in reference to getting a vented sub limited to 16-18hz extension like ours, or monoprice or whatever).

The same process directly applies to the super low tuned stuff. If you need more headroom >25hz you can always add another and another or whatever.

So none of this is a dagger to any of the above. It's just about OBJECTIVELY looking at all of the compromises involved in each design and trying to figure out the best purchase for each individual scenario.

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post #47199 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 07:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
Correct. I keep saying S3050 on the phone too instead of S3010...even after 8 months(?) of shipping them. I think I'm beginning to lose it.



Also, just so no one thinks i'm unfairly singling out the hop2...errr...cap2400....you can compare the fv18 to it as well. 25-80hz the $895 hsu actually outguns the fv18 slightly. Not quite the price differential of the cap2400/hsu but still HALF the pricing for the same output capabilities 25-80hz!



So?



Well, just be aware when shopping that going super low with the tuning point can mean you're literally halving the system capabilities(when comparing top notch ID stuff) over the majority of the operating bandwidth. It is worth it? Obviously that is a resounding yes for a sizable portion of the marketplace. This doesn't need Dick Tracy to figure out. We see daily comments from people receiving their new "low tuned" products as well as Enrico talking about being sold out on their offerings on a regular basis.



Flavor of the month? Maybe. But it's been the flavor of the month going on a year(?) now.



And how many times have we heard---lower output but deeper extension(sealed) means you can always add another sealed to raise headroom.(usually in reference to getting a vented sub limited to 16-18hz extension like ours, or monoprice or whatever).



The same process directly applies to the super low tuned stuff. If you need more headroom >25hz you can always add another and another or whatever.



So none of this is a dagger to any of the above. It's just about OBJECTIVELY looking at all of the compromises involved in each design and trying to figure out the best purchase for each individual scenario.



Tom V.

Power Sound Audio


I like “hop2400” I honestly think jtr should consider a name change! In all seriousness, I’m pretty sure most people following along now what u mean! I know people like to pick apart everything you say but.... come on!!!


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post #47200 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 10:18 AM
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@chucky7 why must you troll? It was @Hopinater who called the subs Hop2400s originally. Not some slip-up. I think you missed a bit of context.
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post #47201 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 10:26 AM
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@chucky7 why must you troll? It was @Hopinater who called the subs Hop2400s originally. Not some slip-up. I think you missed a bit of context.
It was???

I feel like I just woke up from a coma...

BTW, when do you want to come over?

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post #47202 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 10:43 AM
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I think he wanted to remind EVERYONE that it was Hopinator, not the other diehard PSA fans, who switched to a pair of JTR Cap2400ULFs...

It's interesting that he started to lose it once Hopinator announced that he wanted to try the Cap2400ULFs and sold his V3601s.

Crystal ball: He might start calling the Cap 4000ULF bas4000 if basshead81 ever gets the 4000ULF.
Wow, you do know hop and I have probably spoken on the phone more than ANY other psa customer? And not just abotu subs. Just life and family in general. And this friendship has continued up to this day. I'm not going to think less of someone because of which subwoofer they own. But, of course, that may be an alien mindset for some.

Actually I think the whole *hop2400* started when hop contacted me after getting zero response for days(weeks?)from the company that sold him his DOA sub. We were trying to figure out the error code flashes, why one hummed(or boht?)very loudly, and a variety of other "quirks". So at some point during all of this troubleshooting I just began to call it the hop2400 in the office instead of saying" its a jtr2400ulf that was DOA and I'm trying to figure all of this out for him so he can actually just relax and watch one movie without worrying about his brand new sub not working... It was easier for me to just say "hop2400" talking with jim here about it.

We ended up finding a good solution to the grounding issue. But the error codes aren't anything he can resolve on his own. That amps needs to be sent back to SP.

You don't have to despair if I offer low tuned subs I'm sure it won't put your brand out of business. There's plenty of pie to go around

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post #47203 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 11:29 AM
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It was???
The first I read it at least.
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BTW, when do you want to come over?
I'll be right over
{REDACTED}
You have plenty to contribute to the forum. https://www.netmanners.com/658/messa...rum-etiquette/
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RE: Sacrificing mid and upper bass output, is there any kind of enclosure trickery that would make a sub with great output from (say) 8-10hz up to 20hz, and a rapid falloff above that (which we don't care about since we already have 'regular' subwoofers to cover the high teens to 80hz or whatever), while keeping a reasonable size and parts list?
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post #47205 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 12:42 PM
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RE: Sacrificing mid and upper bass output, is there any kind of enclosure trickery that would make a sub with great output from (say) 8-10hz up to 20hz, and a rapid falloff above that (which we don't care about since we already have 'regular' subwoofers to cover the high teens to 80hz or whatever), while keeping a reasonable size and parts list?
Low-pass filtering.

I am actually doing this. I have dual Funk 15.h horns for ≥35Hz (~125dB before distortion rises above 1%!) and dual 21" custom Funks in a sealed enclosure optimized ≤40Hz. I considered a JTR Cap 4000ULF-lp for the ULF but Jeff recommended I stick with sealed for the room. True story
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Well yeah, low pass filtering, but I'm specifically wondering if there's an enclosure design possible with a giant natural hump at those really low frequencies, in exchange for a sharp rolloff above them. Throw in some kind of specialized driver with huge excursion that couldn't play at 60hz to save its life but hits 10hz with authority in that enclosure, and ... profit?
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post #47207 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 01:12 PM
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The first I read it at least.

I'll be right over
{REDACTED}
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post #47208 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
Wow, you do know hop and I have probably spoken on the phone more than ANY other psa customer? And not just abotu subs. Just life and family in general. And this friendship has continued up to this day. I'm not going to think less of someone because of which subwoofer they own. But, of course, that may be an alien mindset for some.

Actually I think the whole *hop2400* started when hop contacted me after getting zero response for days(weeks?)from the company that sold him his DOA sub. We were trying to figure out the error code flashes, why one hummed(or boht?)very loudly, and a variety of other "quirks". So at some point during all of this troubleshooting I just began to call it the hop2400 in the office instead of saying" its a jtr2400ulf that was DOA and I'm trying to figure all of this out for him so he can actually just relax and watch one movie without worrying about his brand new sub not working... It was easier for me to just say "hop2400" talking with jim here about it.

We ended up finding a good solution to the grounding issue. But the error codes aren't anything he can resolve on his own. That amps needs to be sent back to SP.

You don't have to despair if I offer low tuned subs I'm sure it won't put your brand out of business. There's plenty of pie to go around

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
The statement above is why I will be a PSA customer for life.

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Well yeah, low pass filtering, but I'm specifically wondering if there's an enclosure design possible with a giant natural hump at those really low frequencies, in exchange for a sharp rolloff above them. Throw in some kind of specialized driver with huge excursion that couldn't play at 60hz to save its life but hits 10hz with authority in that enclosure, and ... profit?
You could probably just get high excursion driver such as 18s or larger such as 24s with huge sealed box and lots of amp power and just use the xover on the sub amp to like 50hz. That would allow the sub to play 50hz and below. I don't know of any driver that is limited to only ULF....they all go to 100hz as far as I know. But I do know that for sealed subs the larger the box, the more output at ULF and it sacrifices some top end at same time.

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Well yeah, low pass filtering, but I'm specifically wondering if there's an enclosure design possible with a giant natural hump at those really low frequencies, in exchange for a sharp rolloff above them. Throw in some kind of specialized driver with huge excursion that couldn't play at 60hz to save its life but hits 10hz with authority in that enclosure, and ... profit?
Maybe a rotary sub?
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The statement above is why I will be a PSA customer for life.
How many ID speaker/sub companies do you know that take a defunct ID company's subs in on trade........
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post #47212 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by ratbuddy View Post
Well yeah, low pass filtering, but I'm specifically wondering if there's an enclosure design possible with a giant natural hump at those really low frequencies, in exchange for a sharp rolloff above them. Throw in some kind of specialized driver with huge excursion that couldn't play at 60hz to save its life but hits 10hz with authority in that enclosure, and ... profit?
For profit? Highly unlikely. What you describe is a bandpass. But likely ridiculous to build [let alone design] to your stated frequency bands.

https://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/s...ofer-boxes.asp

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The transient response of a sixth order enclosure is worse than any other enclosure with the exception of an eighth order enclosure. The power handling is excellent within the bandpass region and SPL can be intense. This is what makes these a great choice for some SPL competitors, but for everyday listening, they are less than desirable.
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post #47213 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
Normally subs tuned higher especially in the audible frequency range(30hz>) tend to sound boomy….not always but more then not.

I don't believe what folks "Think" they are hearing is the port tune difference...imo it's a difference in frequency response and harmonics.
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How do you attribute this to the port tune? That is not my experience, that the port tune explains boominess.
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
Because subs that are tuned low( <20hz) output is not influenced by the port above 30hz where the frequencies are audible...you are hearing primarily the driver. If you tune a sub above 30hz, then the port is contributing to the output in the audible frequency range...so you can hear the port per say. Take a box store Klipsch sub12 and play some bass oriented music, place your head equidistant from the driver and port, you can hear the output switch between the port and driver. Now perform the same test with a sub tuned below 20hz and you wont hear the bass output switch between port and driver. On the Klipsch sub when the output switches to the port in the 35hz area the tonal balance of the sub changes.
I think the association of higher port tunes and boomier subs has lead you to a conclusion which may not accurate. Port tune is not what makes a sub boomy or not IMO (it can be a factor in the whole design). I believe you unintentionally made a case for lower-tuned subs. I am not a sub designer by any means but here is my understanding:

The port in a bass-reflex system is contributing to the output closer to a full octave (than half) above tune and maybe ⅓ octave below. Above this range the system operates as an acoustic suspension (sealed). No air should escape the port. Lowering the tuning frequency not only increases the ULF efficiency (sacrificing some efficiency 1-2 octaves above). It also increases the range in which the driver is operating in "sealed mode". I find this desireable as I prefer sealed designs in most cases.

I.E. if we choose 20Hz as the lower threshold of audibility, then a 10Hz tune makes perfect sense. 25Hz is actually much more audible than 20Hz (16Hz is barely audible to me). 12.5Hz is a tune which Rythmik has been offering for almost 10 years now. I don't find it a stretch to say that the FV15HP has been the standard of 15" ported subs and still is. Their recent port improvement has mitigating the chuffing issue in single port mode.

In regards to boominess I have been using Energy S8.3 (same as the Mirage Omni S8) subwoofers for years (office, exercise room, etc.). The tune is ~30Hz and they are far from boomy. I have dual Acoustic Research FPS-10's under the bed in our master BR. Their tune is ~40Hz and they aren't boomy (by my standards at least). I have a few TurboSound PA subs tuned closer to 50Hz. They are fairly boomy inside. However they are designed for large open spaces, not small rooms.

Maybe not to your satisfaction, but I believe we have proven that there is more to it than amplitude response and compression sweeps. The PSA V1801s (and likely the V36xx) was far more suitable in @imureh 's room than the JTR Caps 1400 & 2400ULF (which he documented very well).
@basshead81 what first-hand experience do you have with low-tuned subs? Are you willing to host a GTG (the more ears the better)? We can arrange for a couple of low-tuned subs to test. The JTR 2400 and Rythmik FV15 or FV18 are quite manageable in size. You would then be able to control all of the variables and test your hypotheses. I'd be very interested to participate and see what differences are actually detected blind (I do believe that psychoacoustics often affects our perceptions). What do you say? (No rush, anytime in 2019 would do)
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post #47214 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Alexander View Post
I think the association of higher port tunes and boomier subs has lead you to a conclusion which may not accurate. Port tune is not what makes a sub boomy or not IMO (it can be a factor in the whole design). I believe you unintentionally made a case for lower-tuned subs. I am not a sub designer by any means but here is my understanding:

The port in a bass-reflex system is contributing to the output closer to a full octave (than half) above tune and maybe ⅓ octave below. Above this range the system operates as an acoustic suspension (sealed). No air should escape the port. Lowering the tuning frequency not only increases the ULF efficiency (sacrificing some efficiency 1-2 octaves above). It also increases the range in which the driver is operating in "sealed mode". I find this desireable as I prefer sealed designs in most cases.

I.E. if we choose 20Hz as the lower threshold of audibility, then a 10Hz tune makes perfect sense. 25Hz is actually much more audible than 20Hz (16Hz is barely audible to me). 12.5Hz is a tune which Rythmik has been offering for almost 10 years now. I don't find it a stretch to say that the FV15HP has been the standard of 15" ported subs and still is. Their recent port improvement has mitigating the chuffing issue in single port mode.

In regards to boominess I have been using Energy S8.3 (same as the Mirage Omni S8) subwoofers for years (office, exercise room, etc.). The tune is ~30Hz and they are far from boomy. I have dual Acoustic Research FPS-10's under the bed in our master BR. Their tune is ~40Hz and they aren't boomy (by my standards at least). I have a few TurboSound PA subs tuned closer to 50Hz. They are fairly boomy inside. However they are designed for large open spaces, not small rooms.

Maybe not to your satisfaction, but I believe we have proven that there is more to it than amplitude response and compression sweeps. The PSA V1801s (and likely the V36xx) was far more suitable in @imureh 's room than the JTR Caps 1400 & 2400ULF (which he documented very well).
@basshead81 what first-hand experience do you have with low-tuned subs? Are you willing to host a GTG (the more ears the better)? We can arrange for a couple of low-tuned subs to test. The JTR 2400 and Rythmik FV15 or FV18 are quite manageable in size. You would then be able to control all of the variables and test your hypotheses. I'd be very interested to participate and see what differences are actually detected blind (I do believe that psychoacoustics often affects our perceptions). What do you say? (No rush, anytime in 2019 would do)

I might make the drive if this happens.
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Equipment List: Benq W6000, Darbee DVP-5000S Video Processor, JKP Affinity 100 inch 16x9 .9 gain reference screen, Marantz SR7013 Receiver, 3-Marantz Ma700 and 2-Ma6100 monoblocks, 7.4.2 Atmos, B&W Nautilus 805 front speakers, B&W Nautilus HTM2 center speaker, Volt 6 Atmos Speakers, Mirage HDT-R side speakers, Jamo THX surround one rear speakers, 2 PSA S3600I'S, and 2 UM18-22/iNUKE6000DSP DIY subs.
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post #47215 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 03:10 PM
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How many ID speaker/sub companies do you know that take a defunct ID company's subs in on trade........
When I found out Tom did this I wanted to jump in on chat and ask him if I can send him my old washer and dryer in on a trade
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Equipment List: Benq W6000, Darbee DVP-5000S Video Processor, JKP Affinity 100 inch 16x9 .9 gain reference screen, Marantz SR7013 Receiver, 3-Marantz Ma700 and 2-Ma6100 monoblocks, 7.4.2 Atmos, B&W Nautilus 805 front speakers, B&W Nautilus HTM2 center speaker, Volt 6 Atmos Speakers, Mirage HDT-R side speakers, Jamo THX surround one rear speakers, 2 PSA S3600I'S, and 2 UM18-22/iNUKE6000DSP DIY subs.
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post #47216 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 03:14 PM
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I am looking at the v1510DF, Outlaw Ultra 13 and HSU VTF 3 MK5..... possibly V1811 but size of room is 24x16x8. Not really open but to a small dining area. No WAF needed.....

My goals:
Play loud for fun sometimes
Mainly great sound at midto high mid volume
60%movie rest music

Any recommendations?
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Oh yes can go duals as well!
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post #47218 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Phiggs View Post
I am looking at the v1510DF, Outlaw Ultra 13 and HSU VTF 3 MK5..... possibly V1811 but size of room is 24x16x8. Not really open but to a small dining area. No WAF needed.....

My goals:
Play loud for fun sometimes
Mainly great sound at midto high mid volume
60%movie rest music

Any recommendations?
I would be looking at an S3010 or V1811 and adding a second sub at some point at a later date. Since the room is partly open and larger than 3000cu you may want to go the V1811 route.
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Equipment List: Benq W6000, Darbee DVP-5000S Video Processor, JKP Affinity 100 inch 16x9 .9 gain reference screen, Marantz SR7013 Receiver, 3-Marantz Ma700 and 2-Ma6100 monoblocks, 7.4.2 Atmos, B&W Nautilus 805 front speakers, B&W Nautilus HTM2 center speaker, Volt 6 Atmos Speakers, Mirage HDT-R side speakers, Jamo THX surround one rear speakers, 2 PSA S3600I'S, and 2 UM18-22/iNUKE6000DSP DIY subs.

Last edited by Mike Butny; 03-13-2019 at 06:28 PM.
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post #47219 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 03:36 PM
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Oh yes can go duals as well!


Dual V1811 no question.


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Subwoofers: Dual Rythmik FV18s Rev2 with Paper cone, BOSS Platform mini riser
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post #47220 of 49731 Old 03-13-2019, 05:51 PM
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When I found out Tom did this I wanted to jump in on chat and ask him if I can send him my old washer and dryer in on a trade
He probably would and send shipping boxes as well..............
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