Official Power Sound Audio Subwoofer Thread - Page 1712 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #51331 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by anjunadeep View Post
I probably won't have a chance to re-run Audyssey until this weekend, but I will certainly add that to the "to try" list. You really think the subwoofer amp could be clipping at -3 and -2.5 though? I wish the amps had a clip light on them.


Is your DEQ on?


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post #51332 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by imureh View Post
Is your DEQ on?


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I heard some port chuffing tonight on my v1811s watching Godzilla: King of the Monsters. I could hear it in the opening sequence (lots of bass). At first I thought it was distortion, but I turned on the lights and replayed the scene and the driver wasn't moving much so think it was from the port. -13 on MV, no DEQ, bass is +5dB hot. Should I lower the deep bass a little bit with a MiniDSP to make that less likely? I'm not running a house curve or anything. I pulled out my SPL meter on my phone which probably isn't that accurate and it was saying ~100dB so loud but not crazy loud.

This was his initial post on the subject.
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post #51333 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 09:24 AM
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According to https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...l#post58419046 that movie has a sharp high pass and very little content at or below 20 Hz. That makes me further doubt you were hearing chuffing. What time in the movie were you hearing it? I can check on my subs which definitely don't chuff :P
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post #51334 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 09:27 AM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
This was his initial post on the subject.


Thanks. Must have just read over it. Then it is really odd for that sub to chuff at those levels. Again I could never get them to chuff. Driver movement was never great but that is how they are designed to be.


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post #51335 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 10:01 AM
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I agree which is why I suggested turning Audyssey of and bypassing room correction. I have had Audy neuter my systems headroom before. So I turned it off and gained 15db of headroom back. I can about guarantee it's not a sub issue. Dual V1811's should be able to handle Godzilla at reference level.
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post #51336 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
Another thing you can do before going to far is simply turn Audyssey OFF and replay that movie scene. If the noise disappears you found the problem.


If turning Audy off fixes the issue, then try leaving RSC Large, set amp gains so the sub trim ends up -11 post calibration, manually raise to -6, then report back. Then you can manually adjust the low end with RSC if need be.
That's a good idea. The levels still stay set when Audyssey is turned off right? Seemed like when I was turning it on and off finding the best placements in my room that the average level certainly went up with the sub but was like roughly the same so I think so...

I'm not sure if it's better to set the RSC to Large and let Audyssey do ALL the EQ, or if it's better to try to get it as close as possible with RSC and then run Audysey. Seems like splitting hairs but not really sure.


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Also make sure you adjust the sub level via the sub trim in the Audyssey speaker settings and not the generic "sub level adjust". That subs level adjust does nothin but introduce clipping.
Yeah I just use that page I posted to adjust the levels, never the sub level adjust page.

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Is your DEQ on?
No, -13MV, +5dB hot on the subs, no post-Audyssey adjustment with RSC.
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post #51337 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
I agree which is why I suggested turning Audyssey of and bypassing room correction. I have had Audy neuter my systems headroom before. So I turned it off and gained 15db of headroom back. I can about guarantee it's not a sub issue. Dual V1811's should be able to handle Godzilla at reference level.
For sure will try that. It should be a lot louder easier since mostly what Audyssey does down low for me is remove bass to flatten.

I wonder if "cutting" also takes up headroom just like boosting does? I mean if I have a lot of room gain and Audyssey puts a filter at 20Hz with a pretty low Q, if the subwoofer calibration was based on having that peak in there then once Audyssey tames it will it lift up the overall level and have peaks on either end of the filter? Not sure if I'm being clear. I originally was thinking that if Audyssey is cutting it would leave more headroom, but, if you draw out what that cut would look like I'm not so sure when Audyssey sets the levels back.

If that is the case, even cutting would lower the headroom in the amplifier (the driver I imagine it would still help) because the signal would be left as peaks in the higher bass. Still, I should have plenty of headroom even if that's the case with the level I was at, I would imagine. I'm not convinced this is clipping but it is certainly worth checking out. I certainly hope it is!

*edit* For reference as to what Audyssey is doing, I attached what the auto-EQ filters would be for MiniDSP/REW. I never applied these since when I measured Audyssey was just doing the same thing as REW so I saw no need to put another box in the signal chain. No need to add the complexity. But I'm posting it because it basically shows what Audyssey does, although this autoEQ was cuts only and Audyssey does bring up some of those dips. The dips are in a very efficient range for the subwoofer though so I think that should be no problem.

Again, this MiniDSP and filter is not in the signal chain.
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post #51338 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 10:56 AM
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I just got an email back from Tom. He asked me to confirm the subs are time-aligned (which, I did this weekend so I know I'm good there) and confirm with an SPL meter where I'm at. He said it's possible I'm bumping up against the limits 30Hz and below, based on me seeing some improvement by making the room size knob set to smaller.

I'm going to bring up the suggestions here about that it might be clipping rather than chuffing and see what he says.

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Originally Posted by ratbuddy View Post
According to https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-s...l#post58419046 that movie has a sharp high pass and very little content at or below 20 Hz. That makes me further doubt you were hearing chuffing. What time in the movie were you hearing it? I can check on my subs which definitely don't chuff :P
Hey sorry I missed this some how, nice research! thanks! Based on Tom saying it would likely be hitting its limits below 30Hz, maybe it is clipping and not chuffing. I'm not sure I could tell the difference with certainty.

The time in the movie I am hearing it is in the opening credits, where the logo appears. I think it's like the third boom... the biggest one.

Depending on your room size our results might be different at the same volume, no?
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post #51339 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 11:11 AM
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Yes turning off Audy just removes the EQ correctio but levels and distance settings remain the same.

Excessive cutting can be as bad as boost. The best approach is the best placement that requires the least amount of EQ.
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post #51340 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 11:25 AM
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Hi to all,

With the news of S1812*/IPAL I decided to finally add a second sub. Also plan to upgrade the driver of my current S1801 to match the new sub. I've reading but still undecided between NEO/IPAL cost effectiveness vs performance. Any advice? What would be the main difference between them?

My current S1801 is in a 13x12x8 room almost sealed room. I'm still playing with REW and planing to add MiniDSP-HD in the following weeks. The room is fairly treated with 703 acoustic panels on the back and first reflections.

Side note: I live in PR, so shipping really add to the cost difference.

Thanks!
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post #51341 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
Also make sure you adjust the sub level via the sub trim in the Audyssey speaker settings and not the generic "sub level adjust". That subs level adjust does nothin but introduce clipping.


Good point bh. That setting really should be deleted from the options. Most people don't realize that number is based on a 0 db reference, not the -5, -10, etc. that you have your levels set to. It can equate to a +15 db boost and you think it's only 5.
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post #51342 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
Excessive cutting can be as bad as boost. The best approach is the best placement that requires the least amount of EQ.
I slid those subs every which way, there is big gain down deep regardless. I wish Audyssey would just leave it, or that there was some way to set Audyssey to not EQ below a certain frequency and then I could do it with a MiniDSP, if that's the problem. I mean I don't really mind if on the low end I have some extra bass, some downright recommend it. If Audyssey is knocking me down 6-7dB or so, I'd be cool if they just took it down 4dB or something.

Attached is when I was playing with the MiniDSP. It has NO minidsp Audyssey on versus off:
Green == an average of eight points around the listening position (within a grid of a 3ft or so) with no correction/Audyssey off
Blue == Audyssey back on in the main listening position.

The others were me messing around with MiniDSP with cut only filters, it basically matches Audyssey (although Audyssey boosts too) so I figured why have something else in the signal chain and just left the MiniDSP out and let Audyssey do the EQing.
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post #51343 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 12:16 PM
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Hey all, would you get the V1510DF right now or the V1512DF for possibly less than $100 more at the end of October?

I currently don't have a sub in my basement so that's a pretty long wait. But I need to wait for a bit because we are waiting to hear about an insurance claim for almost $4k in against some rental car fraudsters.

3500 cubic foot room, but the "theatre" area is only about half of it.

I'm coming from an SVS SB-2000 which I moved upstairs to make a 2.2 audio system. This is 100% HT.



Wow this thread moves fast! Great enthusiasm. Does anyone have comments about V1510DF right now or the V1512DF for possibly less than $100 more at the end of October? What about compared to the HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP? Given the room specs, etc.
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post #51344 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by anjunadeep View Post
I just got an email back from Tom. He asked me to confirm the subs are time-aligned (which, I did this weekend so I know I'm good there) and confirm with an SPL meter where I'm at. He said it's possible I'm bumping up against the limits 30Hz and below, based on me seeing some improvement by making the room size knob set to smaller.

I'm going to bring up the suggestions here about that it might be clipping rather than chuffing and see what he says.



Hey sorry I missed this some how, nice research! thanks! Based on Tom saying it would likely be hitting its limits below 30Hz, maybe it is clipping and not chuffing. I'm not sure I could tell the difference with certainty.

The time in the movie I am hearing it is in the opening credits, where the logo appears. I think it's like the third boom... the biggest one.

Depending on your room size our results might be different at the same volume, no?
Opening credits as well as Movie main menu are much louder in level than the actual movie itself. It would be a good idea to turn down the volume til the movie starts and then reduce the volume again when opening credits starts.
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post #51345 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post
Yes turning off Audy just removes the EQ correctio but levels and distance settings remain the same.

Excessive cutting can be as bad as boost. The best approach is the best placement that requires the least amount of EQ.
Basshead: I forgot if Audy sees a dip or peak how much of it will it try to eq before it gives up?

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post #51346 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 01:35 PM
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Opening credits as well as Movie main menu are much louder in level than the actual movie itself. It would be a good idea to turn down the volume til the movie starts and then reduce the volume again when opening credits starts.
Cheers, did you just figure that out by ear or measure it or?

I have a very good SPL meter (or can use REW + UMIK) I can record the levels with, but I don't feel like I had it /that/ loud even if it was mixed hot. Tom asks me to check it with a good SPL meter and get back to him.

Thanks again for looking
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post #51347 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 01:35 PM
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Hey sorry I missed this some how, nice research! thanks! Based on Tom saying it would likely be hitting its limits below 30Hz, maybe it is clipping and not chuffing. I'm not sure I could tell the difference with certainty.

The time in the movie I am hearing it is in the opening credits, where the logo appears. I think it's like the third boom... the biggest one.

Depending on your room size our results might be different at the same volume, no?
Ahh, crud, didn't realize it was a new-ish movie, not on Netflix or whatever yet. Anyway, at only 100 dB, it really shouldn't matter how big the room is or even really what the content is, unless we're talking about a 10 Hz sine wave or something.

Can you set up REW's RTA and play the scene to see what frequencies it's hitting? I'd be curious to see a screenshot of the peaks from that.
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post #51348 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 01:52 PM
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Ahh, crud, didn't realize it was a new-ish movie, not on Netflix or whatever yet. Anyway, at only 100 dB, it really shouldn't matter how big the room is or even really what the content is, unless we're talking about a 10 Hz sine wave or something.

Can you set up REW's RTA and play the scene to see what frequencies it's hitting? I'd be curious to see a screenshot of the peaks from that.
I might be getting a reprieve from a work dinner tonight I might be able to test that. I've never actually used the RTA on REW (I'm a REWbie ... I couldn't help myself...sorry), but I imagine I'll be able to figure it out.

My test tonight if time allows and I sneak out of this dinner is going to be:
Use a good SPL meter (or REW with UMIK) to check what the output really is rather than my quickie with the phone late last night. C weighted, Slow.
Reconfirm time alignment of subwoofers (Tom said just confirm I get a ~5dB jump in SPL when I play test tones with both running versus each individually) - I did that this weekend but hey something could have gotten bumped.
Turn Audyssey off and see if that fixes it
Turn Audyssey back on and use the RTA to see what frequencies it is hitting

As I don't want to damage anything I'll run these tests just below the level I can sense a problem except for testing if removing Audyssey fixes it. When I had the problem last night it was right on the edge so I don't think I'm blowing anything up anyways, but, better to play it safe.
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post #51349 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by BeMurda View Post
Wow this thread moves fast! Great enthusiasm. Does anyone have comments about V1510DF right now or the V1512DF for possibly less than $100 more at the end of October? What about compared to the HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP? Given the room specs, etc.
Not a PSA owner, but I'd wait for the new model.

As for a comparison to the HSU, well the HSU is or will be quite a bit less expensive but also quite a bit larger and based on owners here the SQ of the new drivers is very, very good. Plus PSA's CS is about the best there is.

I'd wait.
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post #51350 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ratbuddy View Post
Ahh, crud, didn't realize it was a new-ish movie, not on Netflix or whatever yet. Anyway, at only 100 dB, it really shouldn't matter how big the room is or even really what the content is, unless we're talking about a 10 Hz sine wave or something.

Can you set up REW's RTA and play the scene to see what frequencies it's hitting? I'd be curious to see a screenshot of the peaks from that.
Yep. Room size really only matters as the frequencies drop down to ULF range. For the rest, it's the distance that matters. That's why near field placement is so effective. Going from 9' to 3' doubles the volume- for free

As an aside, I don't think you're hearing "chuffing". Chuffing is very distinct. They don't call cheap subs "fart boxes" for nothing.
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post #51351 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 02:01 PM
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Yep. Room size really only matters as the frequencies drop down to ULF range. For the rest, it's the distance that matters. That's why near field placement is so effective. Going from 9' to 3' doubles the volume- for free

As an aside, I don't think you're hearing "chuffing". Chuffing is very distinct. They don't call cheap subs "fart boxes" for nothing.
Some other friends here said it could be clipping. That's kind of the investigation right now.
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post #51352 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike Butny View Post
Basshead: I forgot if Audy sees a dip or peak how much of it will it try to eq before it gives up?


If I recall correctly, cut up to 20db and boost 12db.


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post #51353 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by anjunadeep View Post
Cheers, did you just figure that out by ear or measure it or?

I have a very good SPL meter (or can use REW + UMIK) I can record the levels with, but I don't feel like I had it /that/ loud even if it was mixed hot. Tom asks me to check it with a good SPL meter and get back to him.

Thanks again for looking
In my system its obvious the closing credits are louder than movie itself on most films. I find myself having to grab my remote at the end of the movie. Its mostly due to music with a lot of bass that plays with the credits. Not sure how much louder but its pretty noticeable.
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post #51354 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BeMurda View Post
Wow this thread moves fast! Great enthusiasm. Does anyone have comments about V1510DF right now or the V1512DF for possibly less than $100 more at the end of October? What about compared to the HSU VTF-3 MK5 HP? Given the room specs, etc.
Without a doubt I would wait.
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post #51355 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by ereed View Post
In my system its obvious the closing credits are louder than movie itself on most films. I find myself having to grab my remote at the end of the movie. Its mostly due to music with a lot of bass that plays with the credits. Not sure how much louder but its pretty noticeable.
+1 I agree.

It's very normal for trailers and opening credits to be louder. If you go to the BEQ thread you will see that they display a warning that in effect says after you have adjusted the bass settings for BEQ be sure to turn down the MV for the trailers and all credits because they are normally mixed much louder.
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post #51356 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 03:32 PM
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@webie I am interested in the neo/Ipal differences too. From the following posts it seems the advantage of the iPal over the neo is most noticeable when the subs are driven harder.


Quote:
Originally Posted by David Charles View Post
They are both excellent drivers but the latter of the two is simply better in every metric. A couple hundred more dollars spread over several years is pennies in my book. Plus you don’t have the “what if” factor. At least you know with the iPals that you’re getting the best of what’s out there right now and can sit back confidently for quite some time and not worry about massive upgradeitis. There’s always better things out there at any given time, I understand that, but these subs should be able to split your skin with those pro audio drivers and their high efficiency.

If I’m a betting man, I would say that they (tv36 ipal) will be about like a cap 2400 ulf from 12.5 hz to 20 hz and beat it handily it above 20 hz. It should beat the 4000 above 30 Hz as well given the efficiency at which pro drivers, ipal efficiency at that, produce midbass. Below 12.5 Hz, you have to give the nod to the caps. The one thing I’m most looking forward to is supposedly how musical these iPals are Their SQ is supposed to be great.

I’m truly hoping that this Long, straight Port makes this sub able to be cranked on at any frequency without any audible noises. The reviews of the monoprice subs, especially the 15 inch, is similar to what I’m hoping for with port performance. You can lay on those things hard and you hear nothing. It’s like the confidence of sealed with ported performance.


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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucks0 View Post
The way Tom described it to me is that the difference becomes more apparent the harder they are pushed. I am getting a single sub and opted for the iPal version. This will give me more clean headroom over the standard Neo. If I was opting for 2 subs, I likely would have went with the Neo version as each sub wouldn't be working quite as hard and the difference wouldn't be as noticeable.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hopinater View Post
Man that's a tough question. I asked Tom the same question you asked and he said there was a difference and it was audible but it wasn't huge. And it depends on how hard you will push the sub. Which makes sense, the Neo driver is really good... but then again the iPal is even better. So the real question comes down to just HOW audible is the difference and is it worth the extra price? To some it will be audible and worth every penny and to others not so much (that's the beauty of having three versions available).

To prove my point...the iPal version and the Neo version are almost neck and neck in sales right now (but the iPal version is a little ahead). So it seems some guys have decided the upgrade is worth it and others have decided it's not. All I know is this preorder pricing is insanely low, it's a great deal that won't be seen again and that goes for all three versions of this subwoofer... but IMO it's especially true for the iPal version. So my advice is if you even think you want the iPal now is the time get it.

Personally, if I were getting one TV36 I would, without a doubt, have ordered the iPal version. But since I'm getting duals I ordered the Neo version... first to save money and secondly I feel confident that two Neo's will easily handle my room so I probably wouldn't hear enough of a difference with the iPals to warrant the extra $800 for duals. But in my heart of hearts I really would like to have dual iPals just to say I have them and I may still end up upgrading before the subs are built... but I doubt it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hop,

I hope you don't mind if I comment on this. When you chose to get two TV36-Neo's, I was excited for you, and I thought that you had made a nice conservative, middle-of-the-road choice. I also knew that you were knowledgeable enough and experienced enough to know what you wanted to do. So, I liked your choice.

But, that was before you said that in your heart-of-hearts, you really want the iPal's. Different people put a different amount of emphasis on their audio components, and are more or less conservative in their willingness to spend money. To some people, this is just one of many hobbies, and to others, having what they really want in their systems is very important to them. I fall into the latter category, and I think you do, too.

If you have set a firm budget for yourself, and you really want to stick with it, or if the $800 difference is going to get in the way of something else that is important, then the decision to compromise with the Neo's still makes perfect sense. But, if neither of those things applies, then I think that you should buy the iPal version. I don't think there is any way to be sure whether you would have noticed audibly significant differences between the two versions, but if you really want the iPal's, in your heart-of-hearts, then you will always wonder.

I agree with Dave that, in the big picture, an $800 difference is negligible if it allows you to have what you really want. FWIW, I practice what I preach in that regard. I don't like to waste money at all, but I do like to get exactly what I want, if and when I can. So, I'm not just giving you the standard bit about enjoying watching other people spend more money. I think I know you well enough to believe that if you don't get what you really want, you will still be second-guessing yourself a year from now. I hope you don't mind me jumping into your business a little bit here.

Regards,
Mike
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
1)you can remove the feet.

2)technically yes but it's not a simple resistance/wattage formula because it's not a giant resistor bank. Speaker/subwoofer impedance varies with frequency(and other variables). And there's some other aspects of the total system that will impact things as well. In short, anyone thinking "ipal18--gotta have it!" should mainly do so because they love the woofer tech and not assume they are getting significantly more wattage along with that.

Tom V.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by webie View Post
Hi to all,

With the news of S1812*/IPAL I decided to finally add a second sub. Also plan to upgrade the driver of my current S1801 to match the new sub. I've reading but still undecided between NEO/IPAL cost effectiveness vs performance. Any advice? What would be the main difference between them?

My current S1801 is in a 13x12x8 room almost sealed room. I'm still playing with REW and planing to add MiniDSP-HD in the following weeks. The room is fairly treated with 703 acoustic panels on the back and first reflections.

Side note: I live in PR, so shipping really add to the cost difference.

Thanks!

Spoiler!
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post #51357 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 04:34 PM
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(hopefully you guys don't mind the callout, but, I apprecated all your help and figure you'd want to know the result)

OKAY! So I ran some tests (attached) and while this is my first time messing with the RTA and probably I didn't have the right graphing settings, it seemed to be doing the job. For example, testing the opening at -17.5 the graph says all kinds of different numbers but you can see it's about 96dB. When I raise it up to -13.5 it goes over 100. I was getting the funny noise there. I re-checked that my subwoofers were time aligned and confirmed that adding the second was yielding a 5dB or so gain per Tom's instructions (that's what the subwoofer 1, 2, and 1+2 graphs are). Note that for the tests with the RTA I mostly had the amplifiers to the mains turned off since I was sitting close to speakers with my laptop.

I turned Audyssey off and put it at -15dB. No funky sound. So I raised it to -13.5, where I originally had the problem and..... drum roll.... no funky sound. So Audyssey is causing the problem.

My next question is: What do I do now? I know Audyssey is causing problems, but it seems to do a good job with everything else (setting distances and levels, configuring my speakers, EQing my mains, and yeah it was giving me a pretty flat response in the bass too). So..What do I do? Is there a way I can tell Audyssey to not EQ the subs and then do it myself with a MiniDSP? Or something along those lines?

Audyssey actually cuts, not boosts, my bass quite a bit - so that's causing a headroom issue?

I tried tricking Audyssey the one time when another member recommended I turn the RSC knob down, but it still EQ'd the bass. Even with the RSC knob down very far I still have a lot of output low so it keeps EQing.

What's my next step oh wise ones?
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post #51358 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by zeuspaul View Post
@webie I am interested in the neo/Ipal differences too. From the following posts it seems the advantage of the iPal over the neo is most noticeable when the subs are driven harder.

Thanks @zeuspaul ! I did read most of the posts. If I was upgrading to the TV36 I'll probably get the IPAL without much hesitation. But I'm not sure how much of a difference it will make on the Sealed 18xx vs cost for my current setup. Other than the info on this thread, there's no much more out there. I think in the end I'll probably decide on the IPAL just to eliminate the what-if factor...



I started here with a HTIB sub > $500 PB100 > SB1801 > *Now thinking of dual + driver upgrade. Maybe I should get out of this sub-forum and save the $.
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post #51359 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anjunadeep View Post
Thank you:
@basshead81
@jamiebosco
@ratbuddy
@ereed
@GatoGoat
@CallingMrBenzo
@imureh
@zeus33
@Mike Butny
(hopefully you guys don't mind the callout, but, I apprecated all your help and figure you'd want to know the result)

OKAY! So I ran some tests (attached) and while this is my first time messing with the RTA and probably I didn't have the right graphing settings, it seemed to be doing the job. For example, testing the opening at -17.5 the graph says all kinds of different numbers but you can see it's about 96dB. When I raise it up to -13.5 it goes over 100. I was getting the funny noise there. I re-checked that my subwoofers were time aligned and confirmed that adding the second was yielding a 5dB or so gain per Tom's instructions (that's what the subwoofer 1, 2, and 1+2 graphs are). Note that for the tests with the RTA I mostly had the amplifiers to the mains turned off since I was sitting close to speakers with my laptop.

I turned Audyssey off and put it at -15dB. No funky sound. So I raised it to -13.5, where I originally had the problem and..... drum roll.... no funky sound. So Audyssey is causing the problem.

My next question is: What do I do now? I know Audyssey is causing problems, but it seems to do a good job with everything else (setting distances and levels, configuring my speakers, EQing my mains, and yeah it was giving me a pretty flat response in the bass too). So..What do I do? Is there a way I can tell Audyssey to not EQ the subs and then do it myself with a MiniDSP? Or something along those lines?

Audyssey actually cuts, not boosts, my bass quite a bit - so that's causing a headroom issue?

I tried tricking Audyssey the one time when another member recommended I turn the RSC knob down, but it still EQ'd the bass. Even with the RSC knob down very far I still have a lot of output low so it keeps EQing.

What's my next step oh wise ones?
If you have a later model denon then you can use the Audyssey app to limit the EQ frequencies
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post #51360 of 57489 Old 08-27-2019, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anjunadeep View Post
Thank you:
@basshead81
@jamiebosco
@ratbuddy
@ereed
@GatoGoat
@CallingMrBenzo
@imureh
@zeus33
@Mike Butny

(hopefully you guys don't mind the callout, but, I apprecated all your help and figure you'd want to know the result)



OKAY! So I ran some tests (attached) and while this is my first time messing with the RTA and probably I didn't have the right graphing settings, it seemed to be doing the job. For example, testing the opening at -17.5 the graph says all kinds of different numbers but you can see it's about 96dB. When I raise it up to -13.5 it goes over 100. I was getting the funny noise there. I re-checked that my subwoofers were time aligned and confirmed that adding the second was yielding a 5dB or so gain per Tom's instructions (that's what the subwoofer 1, 2, and 1+2 graphs are). Note that for the tests with the RTA I mostly had the amplifiers to the mains turned off since I was sitting close to speakers with my laptop.



I turned Audyssey off and put it at -15dB. No funky sound. So I raised it to -13.5, where I originally had the problem and..... drum roll.... no funky sound. So Audyssey is causing the problem.



My next question is: What do I do now? I know Audyssey is causing problems, but it seems to do a good job with everything else (setting distances and levels, configuring my speakers, EQing my mains, and yeah it was giving me a pretty flat response in the bass too). So..What do I do? Is there a way I can tell Audyssey to not EQ the subs and then do it myself with a MiniDSP? Or something along those lines?



Audyssey actually cuts, not boosts, my bass quite a bit - so that's causing a headroom issue?



I tried tricking Audyssey the one time when another member recommended I turn the RSC knob down, but it still EQ'd the bass. Even with the RSC knob down very far I still have a lot of output low so it keeps EQing.



What's my next step oh wise ones?


I would re run audyssey again with room size on middle and try to get a return of -11 on the AVR trims and go at it again.

I re ran audyssey 4 times in a row on Saturday to get what I needed. I think brought out the spl meter and REW and fine tuned the gain on my subs so I had 81 dB combined both subs and 75 dB on my left sub

I’m at -10 in the AVR and everything finally sounds where it should be o

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