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post #56551 of 56712 Old 05-21-2020, 10:27 PM
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Dual TV42 – Longer Term Follow-up

It’s been a while since I’ve posted in the thread and wanted to provide an update on my dual TV42s (serial numbers 10 and 11) along with a couple of in-room photos of them.

I continue to be amazed by the sound quality of these subs – they are truly phenomenal, end-game subs for virtually any theater. The sound from them is incredibly clean, precise, and articulate. Whether used for music, movies, or gaming, they are simply incredible with the accuracy of sound and the prodigious amount of intense bass they can produce.

The output of the TV42s are amazing and the limit for most people will likely be their concern for sheetrock screws popping, pictures falling off neighboring walls or precious vases crashing down from shelves. You have been warned – I learned the hard way but fortunately have a loving and understanding wife!!! (Special hint – use Blu-Tack reusable adhesives on things that might move prior to cranking up your subs to prevent rattles and things crashing).

My room is roughly 1,700 cubic feet (16’ wide x 12’ deep x 9’ high) – a mid-size bedroom converted for home theater use on a lower level concrete floor. While many would say I’m nuts for having a pair of these in this relatively small room, I’m thrilled that I got the TV42s after a long progression of subs over the years (various Velodynes, several SVS subs including PB12-Plus/2 and dual PB13 Ultras, JTR Orbit Shifter LFU, dual SVS S3600s). For me it was the right choice in that I no longer wonder “What if?” or have other sub envy along with the knowledge that I have the best sounding subs I could possibly buy for my room. There are gobs of untapped power but that’s great for proper EQing, using BassEQ for movies or simply frightening guests during demos.

One of the things I really hoped for during this upgrade from dual S3600s to TV42s was a spectacular increase in tactile response in my room. There is a big / huge difference, but for me, it was still less than I was hoping for. Don’t get me wrong these things will pound you and make your arm hair stand on end but I must be a fool looking for / hoping for even more. I already use Crowsons but am unfortunately on a concrete floor. I think there is some strange phenomena with small rooms on concrete as the people sitting on the sofa in the room above my theater feel and hear the whole house shaking and pop cans / glass rattling on the end tables next to them. If you are in a small room with a concrete floor, the best solution is to get the best subs you can afford and build a BOSS platform if you’re looking for tactile response and/or add Crowsons to the mix. I think @CallingMrBenzo described this being the optimum solution for his setup as well. While I wish I had more tactile response, I think it’s a personal thing as I think most “normal” people would be overwhelmed with the pressurization and tactile response in the room.

With some of the posts related to hum, I’ve attached a couple of sweeps of the noise floor of my two TV42 subs as it relates to some of the apparent variability in the SpeakerPower plate amps that are used. I’ve posted a graph with the base noise floor in my room with nothing running (the spike at 120 Hz is from a freezer in my mechanical room) along with the sound levels in my room with both my quiet and noisy TV42 amps individually measured. These levels were recorded in the daytime with related exterior noise and the whole family home due to COVID restrictions. I attached one graph from my main listening position which is 9 feet from the noisy sub and 7 feet from the quiet sub. I also posted both subs as measured at 2 feet from the face of the grill which makes the difference between them clearer.

I know Tom is working extremely hard to find a solution and I saw a recent post that SpeakerPower is working to resolve the problem with variability in some of the amps. I trust in Tom and know that he’ll find a solution for this and make it right with all TV42 owners who happen to have a humming amp that isn’t related to a grounding issue. Keep in mind there have been an on-going issues with this particular version of the SpeakerPower plate amp used that you’ll also find with other products using this amp. I believe this was the same model SpeakerPower amp in the JTR Orbit Shifter LFU I once owned where the hum seemed markedly louder due to the horn design.

Hopefully, they will solve the problem soon as the TV42 is an absolutely incredible sub to hear and I feel extremely fortunate to have a pair of these BEASTS!
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7.2.4 with Denon X4300W, Kef Reference 205 Mains, 202c Ctr, 203, 201, Ci200RR-THX for surrounds/ATMOS, Power Sound Audio PSA Dual TV42 Subs, ATI 2005 & 1807 and Crown DCI 8|300N Amps,
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post #56552 of 56712 Old 05-21-2020, 10:41 PM
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There are always trade-offs. To get an idea what lowering the tuning point with the same size cabinet does to the output capabilities, you can look at the data-bass measurements for the Rythmik FV15HP which has multiple tuning options by plugging a port. Basically, you get a substantial increase in the ultra low frequencies and a slight decrease in output around the tuning point of the higher tuned option.

Even if the cabinet size for the TV1512 was substantially larger, the higher tuned sub would still have an output advantage around its port tune.
Tough decision. I see you went FV18 w/paper. But if your room was only 1430 cu ft and 15" was your size limit...

FV15HP - awesome tuning options, stronger output?
TV1512 - intrigued about the midbass, preorder pricing is tempting
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post #56553 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 01:11 AM
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Any ICEpower owners with the hum?
Yup. In both of my S3000s and my S3600 (so older, less sensitive eminence drivers). Happens whether they're on:
- a dedicated 20amp circuit
- upstairs or downstairs ring
- a pure sine wave UPS
- my DC blocker (that I use to clean my line up before my big toroidal transformers in my power amps)

It rises and falls with the gain, happens when only power is connected, and isn't ground loop.

I've solved my issue by running a much hotter signal into the sub (duplicating the input into the minidsp using routing and splitting the output of the minidsp into both the L and R of each sub) which allows me to reduce the gain. I also dropped the crossover to 80Hz. It's almost inaudible now.
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post #56554 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 03:02 AM
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@zorax2 pm me. I want to discuss how your crowsons are set up up. You should be wanting for nothing with your set up. I think I can hlep
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post #56555 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 04:23 AM
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What a great set up @zorax2 ! Nice room, but that is great for viewing. I too am on a concrete floor, but did like wat @CallingMrBenzo did and I have a modified BOSS. They do well, and I do love my PSA subs. If I had that set up, I think my wife and 2 daughters would leave me....leaving only the middle child, as she likes it when the couch shakes....
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post #56556 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 05:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soulburner View Post
Tough decision. I see you went FV18 w/paper. But if your room was only 1430 cu ft and 15" was your size limit...



FV15HP - awesome tuning options, stronger output?

TV1512 - intrigued about the midbass, preorder pricing is tempting
I agree. That is a tough decision especially when only one of them is currently available. There isn't a bad option.

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post #56557 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 07:43 AM
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Originally Posted by CallingMrBenzo View Post
@zorax2 pm me. I want to discuss how your crowsons are set up up. You should be wanting for nothing with your set up. I think I can hlep
Definitely take @CallingMrBenzo up on this offer @zorax2 . Zach literally called me up one day and offered for him and Aron to take a look at how I had my Crowsons set up. Before I had the subwoofer out running from my Oppo 203 directly to my Crowsons so they had a good bass feed and it was great (or so I thought). But when Zach and Aron tuned my system we ran the Crowsons through the miniDSP and Aron added in his settings for the Crowsons and it was a dramatic difference in TR. It's far more accurate and far more powerful and goes down to 3Hz which means they are in sync with the BEQ settings. Game changer.

The key here is Crowsons are not cheap so you want to make sure you utilize them to their full potential.

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post #56558 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 07:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zorax2 View Post
With some of the posts related to hum, I’ve attached a couple of sweeps of the noise floor of my two TV42 subs as it relates to some of the apparent variability in the SpeakerPower plate amps that are used. I’ve posted a graph with the base noise floor in my room with nothing running.
Thanks for doing this. So it appears that the ground loop hum is at the expected 60 hz and the high sensitivity hiss is at 180 hz. This would explain why lowering the crossover on the sub has helped in a lot of cases. Setting it to around 120-150hz likely filters out that signal.
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post #56559 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 07:48 AM
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Originally Posted by lizrussspike View Post
What a great set up @zorax2 ! Nice room, but that is great for viewing. I too am on a concrete floor, but did like wat @CallingMrBenzo did and I have a modified BOSS. They do well, and I do love my PSA subs. If I had that set up, I think my wife and 2 daughters would leave me....leaving only the middle child, as she likes it when the couch shakes....
Russ just ordered a MiniDSP 2x4 HD, I cant wait till Aron and I get our hands on his 3 Sub woofers and BOSS, and get him BEQ'ing!

Marantz 7011- Panasonic UB-820- Xbox One X - JVC RS4910 (FOR THE TIME BEING) * - Elite Screen's 2:35:1 AT 115' - PSA MTM 110's L/C/R - Mixed Surrounds - SVS Elevations Atmos X2 - Dual PSA TV36 B&C Neo's *MiniDSP HD* Took the Red Pill BEQ *HOVER BOSS*
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post #56560 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 08:04 AM
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Thanks @CallingMrBenzo ! A little peer pressure will pay off in beer pressure.
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post #56561 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 08:08 AM
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Russ just ordered a MiniDSP 2x4 HD, I cant wait till Aron and I get our hands on his 3 Sub woofers and BOSS, and get him BEQ'ing!
That's going to be HUGE!!!! Optimized set up, BEQ and TR. I can't wait to read his impressions.

Better strap yourself in @lizrussspike because your life's about to change.

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post #56562 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by chucks0 View Post
Thanks for doing this. So it appears that the ground loop hum is at the expected 60 hz and the high sensitivity hiss is at 180 hz. This would explain why lowering the crossover on the sub has helped in a lot of cases. Setting it to around 120-150hz likely filters out that signal.
In this particular instance, it is definitely not just ground loop hum. I have a Furman IT-Ref 20i which is a 20-amp discrete symmetrical power filter. It uses a huge transformer to produce balanced power and completely eliminates any and all potential of a ground loop. The measurements posted are my current calibrated setup without the Furman balanced power being used for all equipment as it can’t support the load of the dual TV42s and everything else. However, I did previously test with just each individual TV42 connected only to the AVR and all powered by the Furman with similar results and I forgot to save those results to post.

I’ve had a total of 4 SpeakerPower amps to test with only one being silent and the other 3 all having different noise or hum characteristics. The “noisy” amp in the graphs attached earlier was upon installation reasonably quiet and for unknown reasons is now on the loud side. In replacing / swapping amps, I did notice differences in how the wires were wrapped from the inputs to the amp itself which does actually affect the signal as I found during testing. I think the input wires may be acting as an antenna of sorts that enters the signal. Wrapping / twisting the wires similar to my quiet amp did improve the noisy ones but there were still differences for whatever unknown reason. Hopefully, SpeakerPower will be able to determine why some of these amps are noisy and some aren’t.

On a cautionary note for others, don’t assume that an amp is the sole reason for hum. In most cases, the hum is actually from a ground loop, poor cables or connectors or elsewhere. For that reason, it’s currently challenging with the variability of the noise floor of some of the high powered amps to easily diagnose where the root of the problem is.

If you are spending the big bucks for any brand of high powered sub that requires an external ground, do yourself a huge favor and purchase a Jenson VRD-1FF isolator for your cable TV signal and a Jensen Sub-1RR or Sub-2RR isolator to have on hand when the sub arrives. I believe everyone should have the VRD-1FF if they have a cable TV feed as the cable TV feed often introduces noise into the system. You may or may not need the sub isolators so try to purchase them somewhere with a decent return policy. Also, be sure to use the best sub cables you can buy – particularly for a lengthy cable run. I am using the Blue Jeans Cable LC-1 for its shielding to help prevent external interference get into the signal.

If you are having hum, start with simple steps in troubleshooting. First, try the sub only hooked up to the outlet with nothing else attached. Hook up only the sub to your AVR. Try both with and without a cheater plug. If you are lifting the ground with a cheater plug for both your AVR and the sub and there is still substantial loud humming, I think there is a high likelihood that there is an amp issue rather than a ground loop issue keeping in mind that the AVR is still a possible source of noise. Another important thing – use a short, high quality sub cable while troubleshooting as cables can also be the source of the problem.

One other helpful trick listed on the SpeakerPower website is to use a wire from your outlet cover’s receptacle screw to your AVR and possibly daisy chain that ground to your other connected components.

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post #56563 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 02:03 PM
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Thanks @Hopinater , looking forward to finally getting that 2x4 HD mini, and getting optimized. I imagine that there is so much more to this, as each day there are newer things...hoverboss, DUAL TV42...stuff is getting crazy, and foundations are gonna get pummeled! Have a great holiday weekend all!!
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post #56564 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by zorax2 View Post
My room is roughly 1,700 cubic feet (16’️ wide x 12’️ deep x 9’️ high) – a mid-size bedroom converted for home theater use on a lower level concrete floor. While many would say I’️m nuts for having a pair of these in this relatively small room, I’️m thrilled that I got the TV42s after a long progression of subs over the years (various Velodynes, several SVS subs including PB12-Plus/2 and dual PB13 Ultras, JTR Orbit Shifter LFU, dual SVS S3600s). For me it was the right choice in that I no longer wonder “What if?” or have other sub envy along with the knowledge that I have the best sounding subs I could possibly buy for my room. There are gobs of untapped power but that’️s great for proper EQing, using BassEQ for movies or simply frightening
Congratulations, what an amazing pair of subs!

I own the JTR Captivator 4000ULFs, which are amazing, but I still wonder how the TV42 iPals compare. How does a sing TV42 iPal compare to a single JTR Orbit Shift LFU? I believe the TV42s are tuned much lower but which has a better slam in your gut midbass? Thanks!

BTW I have the amp and no hum from mine regardless of volume/ gain or input connected. I purchased min Q2 of 2019 so maybe SpeakerPower is running into some bad batches in 2020. Hopefully it gets resolved as if like to add another 4000ULF (or possibly move to two TV42 ipals).
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post #56565 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 05:25 PM
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Congratulations, what an amazing pair of subs!

I own the JTR Captivator 4000ULFs, which are amazing, but I still wonder how the TV42 iPals compare. How does a sing TV42 iPal compare to a single JTR Orbit Shift LFU? I believe the TV42s are tuned much lower but which has a better slam in your gut midbass? Thanks!

BTW I have the amp and no hum from mine regardless of volume/ gain or input connected. I purchased min Q2 of 2019 so maybe SpeakerPower is running into some bad batches in 2020. Hopefully it gets resolved as if like to add another 4000ULF (or possibly move to two TV42 ipals).
For fun, I found my old JTR LFU measurements and posted it with a measurement from a TV42 in the same location / room. As you can see, the PSA TV42 eats the OS LFUs lunch until about 19 Hz where the OS LFU gains a lot of steam up to about 60 Hz when the TV42 regains the upper hand.

To add to the fun, I added the predicted response of REW generated house curves that try to take advantage of the frequency response for each. The TV42 curve shows awesome low frequency response and follows the curve very nicely with a predicted 115.6 dB overall response. The OS LFU curve has much lower output down low and equalization lops off a ton of output along the way in trying to achieve some relative flatness over the house curve throwing away much of the LFUs capability with a predicted 110.3 dB overall response. If I recall correctly, having tried every possible location in my room, there was simply no way to get a decent response using Audyssey without throwing out the LFU's prodigous output in trying to flatten the response.

In my room, the LFU was a big disappointment in terms of getting good sound. It had poor in-room response, lots of ringing frequencies and the SpeakerPower amp in that thing hummed very LOUD no matter what I tried.

With uncorrected response, the LFU could certainly pound the room with a lot of intensity. However, the TV42 does a tremendous job with much more refinement and finesse.
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post #56566 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 06:50 PM
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How much does Ricci at data-bass charge to test a sub? I don´t remember if it was here that people was making something like joining and paying a buyer so he can ship a sub to Ricci in order to test it.
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post #56567 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 09:42 PM
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How much does Ricci at data-bass charge to test a sub? I don´t remember if it was here that people was making something like joining and paying a buyer so he can ship a sub to Ricci in order to test it.
I was thinking the same thing.
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post #56568 of 56712 Old 05-22-2020, 11:11 PM
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Hi Gents, upgrade advice please?


Currently have a S3600i at the rear of my smallish room (5.3x3.2M) and am considering the following options.


Trade in my S3600i x 2 Ipal 18"s (they could go at the rear or raise my screen a little but lose my IMAX setup, which isn't a big problem as its pretty much permanently masked)



Trade in for 2 x S1512 which will fit under my screen without the hassle of raising it. (am I gonna be happy coming from a S3600 to 2 S1512s though?)


Keep my S3600 and buy 2 S1512s for the front under my screen again lose the IMAX?


I think REW room sim suggests one front and one rear would be best response wise. The lure of the new ipals is strong but Im a little worried about the hum and Ive recently suffered a similar issue with my 1080ti and Madvr at high settings.



Any other suggestions?



Thanks
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post #56569 of 56712 Old 05-23-2020, 03:53 AM
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Hi Gents, upgrade advice please?


Currently have a S3600i at the rear of my smallish room (5.3x3.2M) and am considering the following options.


Trade in my S3600i 2 x Ipal 18"s (they could go at the rear or raise my screen a little but lose my IMAX setup, which isn't a big problem as its pretty much permanently masked)



Trade in for 2 x S1512 which will fit under my screen without the hassle of raising it. (am I gonna be happy coming from a S3600 to 2 S1512s though?)


Keep my S3600 and buy 2 S1512s for the front under my screen again lose the IMAX?


I think REW room sim suggests one front and one rear would be best response wise. The lure of the new ipals is strong but Im a little worried about the hum and Ive recently suffered a similar issue with my 1080ti and Madvr at high settings.



Any other suggestions?



Thanks
Edit....I see you are saying keep the S3600's and add S1512's up front...actually this is probably a good plan.

Or how about a complete change and go with quad TV1512's? Lay the pair up front down on their sides....17" baffle.

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post #56570 of 56712 Old 05-23-2020, 03:59 AM
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Originally Posted by bear123 View Post
Edit....I see you are saying keep the S3600's and add S1512's up front...actually this is probably a good plan.

Or how about a complete change and go with quad TV1512's? Lay the pair up front down on their sides....17" baffle.

Sorry, there was a mistake in my post. I only have the one S3600i. Not considered vented tbh because of my small sized room, always thought sealed would be the way to go.
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post #56571 of 56712 Old 05-23-2020, 06:14 AM
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Sorry, there was a mistake in my post. I only have the one S3600i. Not considered vented tbh because of my small sized room, always thought sealed would be the way to go.
I've had both sealed and ported subs in a room just slightly bigger than yours (including dual S3600i in that room) and I prefer the ported subs which have substantial output and more tactile response. The LT (low tune) series subs are incredible alternative to sealed subs if you desire strong low frequency response.

In fact, I have dual TV42s (dual 21" iPal vented sub) in a similar size room. Get the best subs (at least duals) you can afford for best response, lots of headroom for EQing and to prevent upgraditis which gets expensive.

Everyone here can provide some good options to consider for your room.
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post #56572 of 56712 Old 05-23-2020, 07:09 AM
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Spoiler!
Do you use Audyssey at all or just leave it off?

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post #56573 of 56712 Old 05-23-2020, 07:19 AM
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Sorry, there was a mistake in my post. I only have the one S3600i. Not considered vented tbh because of my small sized room, always thought sealed would be the way to go.
I think the TV1512's would work well because they will give you just as much extension as sealed since they are low tuned, with a lot more clean output capability and better TR for less cost. Room size control should work really well to help you tailor the low end to taste. If a pair of S1512's gives you all the clean output you can use including running subs hot, house curve, etc, then it may be a good solution.
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post #56574 of 56712 Old 05-23-2020, 10:18 AM
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Thanks for those of you that posted in my separate thread about sub recommendations.....I ordered a PSA S3012 which arrived yesterday and was able to get it set-up and run Audessey on a Marantz S8012 AVR. According to the calibration threads I saw pinned above the trim level for the sub came in at -11.5 which seems to be OK for Marantz/Denon AVRs. I have Dynamic EQ turned off for now and did go and reset the speaker sizes to small after the calibration and the crossovers to 80 Hz with the exception of the front Atmos speakers which are 200 Hz. Audessey set my from LCR to Large by default (I am running a 7.2.1 set-up). When I did the initial set-up with the sub gain at 12 O'clock the Audessey had me turn it down to get into the "green zone" but now after reading the pinned thread I'm not sure if I should re-run the calibration and have the sub level be a bit into the red zone though I think with my sub trim already at -11.5 then it would set it too low? Would it be better to turn the gain down and re-run so the trim that comes back is a little higher at say -10 to -9? Or just leave well enough alone at this point and experiment with the boost from dynamic EQ, boosting a bit from using the sub gain control, or using the AVR subwoofer trim control. I can definitely hear the sub output as-is right now but would like a bit of boost, particularly in the mid-bass range. I can say that when I was running the calibration the sub was rattling the pictures on the wall before the app asked to turn the trim down and it by far is an upgrade to the 12" Epik Vanquish I was running previously (the S3012 is probably 2.5 x larger)! I know there are other methodologies for sub-EQ but beyond my level of expertise so trying to get the most out of Audessey for the time being. Thanks for any advice!
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post #56575 of 56712 Old 05-23-2020, 12:06 PM
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Thanks for those of you that posted in my separate thread about sub recommendations.....I ordered a PSA S3012 which arrived yesterday and was able to get it set-up and run Audessey on a Marantz S8012 AVR. According to the calibration threads I saw pinned above the trim level for the sub came in at -11.5 which seems to be OK for Marantz/Denon AVRs. I have Dynamic EQ turned off for now and did go and reset the speaker sizes to small after the calibration and the crossovers to 80 Hz with the exception of the front Atmos speakers which are 200 Hz. Audessey set my from LCR to Large by default (I am running a 7.2.1 set-up). When I did the initial set-up with the sub gain at 12 O'clock the Audessey had me turn it down to get into the "green zone" but now after reading the pinned thread I'm not sure if I should re-run the calibration and have the sub level be a bit into the red zone though I think with my sub trim already at -11.5 then it would set it too low? Would it be better to turn the gain down and re-run so the trim that comes back is a little higher at say -10 to -9? Or just leave well enough alone at this point and experiment with the boost from dynamic EQ, boosting a bit from using the sub gain control, or using the AVR subwoofer trim control. I can definitely hear the sub output as-is right now but would like a bit of boost, particularly in the mid-bass range. I can say that when I was running the calibration the sub was rattling the pictures on the wall before the app asked to turn the trim down and it by far is an upgrade to the 12" Epik Vanquish I was running previously (the S3012 is probably 2.5 x larger)! I know there are other methodologies for sub-EQ but beyond my level of expertise so trying to get the most out of Audessey for the time being. Thanks for any advice!
11.5 is perfect. If you turn your gain up and re-run Audyssey it will return at -12 which is maxed out for Audyssey, the numbers stop there... but Audyssey may have actually turned it down lower. The problem is, you don't know if -12 is actually correct or if it would have read -13 or or lower. You have no way of knowing just how much Audyssey turned down your subs.

I would keep my Audyssey calibration if it sounds good because you know you have a lot of room to increase the bass. Now, you turn up your gain up to where you like it best. Or you can go into your trim setting and turn that up a few dB. Or do a little of both.

Question... where did you have the RSC knob set when you ran Audyssey?

Final Note: if you turn up the trim or the gain, be careful about running DEQ because that will boost things a lot more and may throw things out of whack.

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post #56576 of 56712 Old 05-23-2020, 12:19 PM
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11.5 is perfect. If you turn your gain up and re-run Audyssey it will return at -12 which is maxed out for Audyssey, the numbers stop there... but Audyssey may have actually turned it down lower. The problem is, you don't know if -12 is actually correct or if it would have read -13 or or lower. You have no way of knowing just how much Audyssey turned down your subs.

I would keep my Audyssey calibration if it sounds good because you know you have a lot of room to increase the bass. Now, you turn up your gain up to where you like it best. Or you can go into your trim setting and turn that up a few dB. Or do a little of both.

Question... where did you have the RSC knob set when you ran Audyssey?

Final Note: if you turn up the trim or the gain, be careful about running DEQ because that will boost things a lot more and may throw things out of whack.

Thank you for the advice! I'll leave it as-is then because I think overall it sounds good. Aside from the sub I think the curve/settings for the other speakers are pretty much close to where they were with the old sub. RSC=Room Size Correction knob, right? If so, I had that set to large since it's a generally big space even though the listening area is a bit compact. In the pinned thread it was saying to try DEQ without changing the trim level to see what that may do and then turn off and adjust the trim to see what sounds better. But maybe better to just use the trim?

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post #56577 of 56712 Old 05-23-2020, 01:13 PM
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Thank you for the advice! I'll leave it as-is then because I think overall it sounds good. Aside from the sub I think the curve/settings for the other speakers are pretty much close to where they were with the old sub. RSC=Room Size Correction knob, right? If so, I had that set to large since it's a generally big space even though the listening area is a bit compact. In the pinned thread it was saying to try DEQ without changing the trim level to see what that may do and then turn off and adjust the trim to see what sounds better. But maybe better to just use the trim?
DEQ compensates for different volume levels your system will be used it, which is something a static trim or tone control can not do. I know which one is better in my systems

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post #56578 of 56712 Old 05-23-2020, 01:47 PM
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Thank you for the advice! I'll leave it as-is then because I think overall it sounds good. Aside from the sub I think the curve/settings for the other speakers are pretty much close to where they were with the old sub. RSC=Room Size Correction knob, right? If so, I had that set to large since it's a generally big space even though the listening area is a bit compact. In the pinned thread it was saying to try DEQ without changing the trim level to see what that may do and then turn off and adjust the trim to see what sounds better. But maybe better to just use the trim?
Try DEQ if you want but don't boost your trim or gain if you do until you are familiar with how things sound and then be careful with how hot you try running things with DEQ on.

I suggest playing around. Try your system with DEQ engaged. Then turn it off and try adjusting your gain and/or your Trim. Write down how much you change things so you can change them back to where you have them now. Keep playing around with things so you can learn your system and how it sounds with different settings. Audyssey is just your starting point for subwoofer levels. You should tweak it to your personal preferences.

The three ways to increase your subwoofer levels is DEQ, Trim and Gain. The Room Size Correction is another way to play with the lower frequencies in the room. Play around and enjoy your new sub.

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post #56579 of 56712 Old 05-23-2020, 07:09 PM
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I spent the day watching movies. Ready Player 1, Lone Survivor and Dunkirk. These TV42 subs just do not run out of steam. The low end is just medieval and the mid/high bass just as absurd. Explosions and gunshots literally feel like someone punching you in the chest. After the last 30 minutes of RP1 my wife said she was feeling nauseous. I can't imagine it getting any better than a set of dual TV42s. Best way to describe the experience is chaos and vilolence with finesse. Worth every cent. Absolute home run for PSA.

Edit: I have had a few people PM me with questions. Another good point I thought of with these subs is I now feel like I am in the movie vs just watching it.
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post #56580 of 56712 Old 05-24-2020, 05:41 AM
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I spent the day watching movies. Ready Player 1, Lone Survivor and Dunkirk. These TV42 subs just do not run out of steam. The low end is just medieval and the mid/high bass just as absurd. Explosions and gunshots literally feel like someone punching you in the chest. After the last 30 minutes of RP1 my wife said she was feeling nauseous. I can't imagine it getting any better than a set of dual TV42s. Best way to describe the experience is chaos and vilolence with finesse. Worth every cent. Absolute home run for PSA.

From your description, it sounds like we have reached the pinnacle of home subwoofer performance with the 42’s: I can’t imagine anyone wanting more.


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