$5 infinity PS sub series amp overheat repair.(with pictures) - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1 of 13 Old 12-25-2011, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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This is my first post on here, so I hope I'm obeying all the group rules, but I did want to share a fix for a problem I've encountered with my subwoofers.

If you have an infinity ps8, ps38, ps10, ps212, ps410 etc, you may get an issue with your amp overheating, (blowing capacitors, e.g.) which i have read a lot about on here. Options to cool it regarding drilling holes in the plastic amp enclosure, yanking the amp board etc, seemed to be what I've seen as alternative fixes. Another was to pull the amp and build a new enclosure for it. Well, I'd like to throw an idea in the ring that worked for both of my PS-10's.

I was reticent to start drilling vents into the amp enclusure, so I thought, why not offest the mount? Heres what I did. I strted by going to a local hardware store. the original 10 main screws are a #6 x 3/4" full thread cabinet screw, and the two smaller ones are a #4 x 1/2". I replaced them with a screw half an inch longer, as shown below.(actually, I cant upload any photos until my third post, sorry) they were silver instead of black, but I'm ok with that. I also bought matching spacers - 1/2" long, by 3/8" wide, with a hole whose ID matched the #6 screw OD.



I then added the spacers between the amp face and the enclosure, as seen in the following pictures. It gives a 1/8" air gap around most of the board, and at the bottom, you can see more air spacing around the power cord. I don't know what the exact torque used on the screw was, but hand tight worked for me. No sound degradation whatsoever, and it hasn't rattled apart with me thumping them out when I'm in the mood for more bass. I hope this helps some people out there. The total cost of the fix was $4.31 with tax.







Oh, and if anyone has a PS-10 they'd like to sell&ship for under $150.... I'd like two more.....
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post #2 of 13 Old 12-28-2011, 05:09 AM
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Hey, neat :-) Thanks for sharing!

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post #3 of 13 Old 12-28-2011, 08:40 PM
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I think what you've done is basically added another port and ruined the design tune of the enclosure. The cabinet is no longer restricted to only putting air through the port. You may think it doesn't sound different but I'm sure it does.

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post #4 of 13 Old 12-28-2011, 08:56 PM
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+1, that was my first thought. The enclosure is compromised without a seal.

Instead of adding stand offs, take the amp completely out of the box. Put a piece of ply or particle board over the hole as a block off plate, installing binding posts in the board. Terminate the speaker wires and place the amp in a small ventilated box.

Or turn down the gain so that little amp doesn't overheat.

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post #5 of 13 Old 12-29-2011, 09:27 AM
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I was wondering about the port. Find a way to get air through the port to cool the amp. Maybe push some of the insulation out of the way.
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post #6 of 13 Old 12-29-2011, 09:45 AM
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The amp area is completely sealed off from the rest of the cab if I remember right, its completely contained within its own plastic box... and that's actually what causes the issue with the overheating related problems in the first place (the power resistors literaly burn the circuit board and components over time). What the OP has done is off-set the faceplate that covers that plastic box. Thus, I believe, what he has done will work. However there are already grill slots molded into that cover plate to begin with, its just that its got the black stick 'em sheet with the labels glued down over those slots... surely some label designer's goof-up. It might have been easier to simply cut the thin plastic sheet off from over those molded-in grill slots to open them up. That's what I did with the one I had before I gave it to a friend.

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post #7 of 13 Old 12-29-2011, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monomer View Post

The amp area is completely sealed off from the rest of the cab if I remember right, its completely contained within its own plastic box... and that's actually what causes the issue with the overheating related problems in the first place (the power resistors literaly burn the circuit board and components over time). What the OP has done is off-set the faceplate that covers that plastic box. Thus, I believe, what he has done will work. However there are already grill slots molded into that cover plate to begin with, its just that its got the black stick 'em sheet with the labels glued down over those slots... surely some label designer's goof-up. It might have been easier to simply cut the thin plastic sheet off from over those molded-in grill slots to open them up. That's what I did with the one I had before I gave it to a friend.

Ah! I see now. Then he did nothing wrong. My mistake.

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post #8 of 13 Old 12-30-2011, 02:05 AM
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The enclosure is compromised without a seal.

"Women and cats will do as they please, and men and dogs should relax and get used to the idea." -Robert A. Heinlein
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post #9 of 13 Old 12-30-2011, 02:03 PM - Thread Starter
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monomer, you are correct, the amp enclosure still makes a complete seal with the main woofer enclosure, so the airflow is still relegated only to the port. I had noticed those two areas I could have cut out of the back plate you'd mentioned, and had considered it as well, but thought it might not be enough airflow.
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post #10 of 13 Old 01-12-2012, 08:21 AM
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thanks for this...I am going to try it today on my busted ps12. I noticed that while the 10 screws are all the same size, the two towards the middle are different lengths. I'm terrible at this sort of thing, but I'll just buy a bunch of different sizes and try to wing it. if it fails, I'll just buy a new sub, which is what I was already planning on doing.
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post #11 of 13 Old 01-12-2012, 09:33 AM - Thread Starter
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The middle screws are an m4 screw, iirc. Measure their length, and look for a #4 screw half an inch longer
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post #12 of 13 Old 01-12-2012, 01:25 PM
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I think I got the correct middle screws, but I couldn't really see what I was doing once the spacers were in place. I just left them off. I don't know if this will be a permanent fix, but the sub has been going strong for a few hours after this, where it used to start cutting out in minutes. thanks a lot for the tip.
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post #13 of 13 Old 10-17-2019, 11:55 PM
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As someone who was researching subwoofers and came across Infinity Primus PS312 and PS410 as inexpensive options, I'm wary of all the fried amp postings I've seen. This "fix" gives me hope.

Can anyone who's tried this technique verify that it's stood the test of time?

Any info appreciated.
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