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post #6421 of 6445 Old 12-30-2016, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by TooPoor View Post
It's a SP1-4000 Torpedo SpeakerPower amp. I thought someone said earlier in the thread that I'd need a passive plate, but I may have misunderstood. That's even better news. The PE flatpack doesn't come with a cutout if I'm not mistaken (or the DIYSG flatpack).

Docethic, the PS18x will always be available to you if you're interested. I really want to start getting into DIY and another sub seemed like a good idea considering the availability of flatpacks, the fact I have a sub amp that can power a slave, and the low cost. I certainly don't need 2 18's in my current listening area...

EDIT: Yup... I get it now. I just need the Speakon Terminal Plate. Makes sense now.

You definitely don't need another amp. If you plug in a second sub, it'll get 2kw rms as long as the amp is seeing a 2ohm load. Your current driver is 4ohm, your second one should be the same - run it parallel and it'll be 2ohm. Aside from the box and driver you'll also need the following:
- 1 x neutrik connector http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-054
- 2 x speakons http://www.parts-express.com/neutrik...mount--092-050
- 12awg wire
- wood screws
- walmart pillow $3 each, you'll need 4 for each box. Go ahead and add them to your other box from Jeremy.
- paint/duratex

Assuming you can get a series 2k 18" driver from Paul Pierce, the entire project should cost you under $700.
I highly suggest you visit the DIY forum and start a thread there.
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post #6422 of 6445 Old 12-30-2016, 09:48 AM
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lz7j,

I contacted Paul and he knows exactly what I need (and has it). Your list will round out my BOM. I really appreciate the help.

Now about those active CX-10t...

DIYSoundgroup Titan LX 15 (WIP)
Philharmonic Audio BMR
Reaction Audio PS-18x (x2)
Denon X4000 - Schiit Mimby - Monolith 2
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post #6423 of 6445 Old 01-19-2017, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by TooPoor View Post
lz7j,

I contacted Paul and he knows exactly what I need (and has it). Your list will round out my BOM. I really appreciate the help.

Now about those active CX-10t...
Have you received the driver yet? Curious how the slave project is shaping up...Have you worked on fine tuning the ps18 any further ?
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post #6424 of 6445 Old 01-19-2017, 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by TooPoor View Post
lz7j,

I contacted Paul and he knows exactly what I need (and has it). Your list will round out my BOM. I really appreciate the help.

Now about those active CX-10t...
TP, if I remember correctly Nikko has the CX-12 active XOs.
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post #6425 of 6445 Old 02-02-2017, 07:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DotJun View Post
Unplug the signal cable going into the amp. Leave the amp on. Let it sit that way for a few days. Does it still pop? If not, your problem lies elsewhere.
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Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
Also, be sure when you are switching it from OFF to ON 15-20x...you give it enough time for all the relays/DSP. 10 seconds would be plenty of time.

EDIT---for clarity. What I mean is when you switch it to ON you need to wait a bit for all of the relays/DSP before the subwoofer will begin reproducing bass. Give it 10 seconds, that should be plenty.

Tom V. is Power Sound Audio
Sorry I got sidetracked and forgot to post back as it actually started working almost all the time. Unfortunately it doesn't work at all now though. Even if the sub seemingly engages and the power light is green there almost no output. If I play a test tone and turn the sub output on the receiver all the way up and the gain on the amp all the way up there is literally next to no output from the sub.

I got a new receiver from Denon under warranty so the sub was disconnected almost a week and it still doesn't work on the new receiver. At this point i'm not sure if there is anything I can do to repair it. I'm starting to research new subs but am somewhat skeptical of another internet direct sub...I've been burned now by Chase Home Theatre going out of business and now reaction audio seemingly disappearing. Just had some bad luck in picking them I guess.

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post #6426 of 6445 Old 02-02-2017, 08:36 PM
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There are some very reliable ID companies out there such as HSU and SVS which have been around for 20yrs+. Rythmik, PSA, and JTR also have a great track record.

That being said you should be able to send that ICE amp to Brian at Speaker Power(manufacturer) and he might repair it for free. I would assume that amp should still have some sort of warranty even though RA is no longer. JTR and PSA both are using those ICE amps in their products.
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post #6427 of 6445 Old 02-02-2017, 08:48 PM
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There are some very reliable ID companies out there such as HSU and SVS which have been around for 20yrs+. Rythmik, PSA, and JTR also have a great track record.

That being said you should be able to send that ICE amp to Brian at Speaker Power(manufacturer) and he might repair it for free. I would assume that amp should still have some sort of warranty even though RA is no longer. JTR and PSA both are using those ICE amps in their products.
I will check out that option, thank you very much! i had actually researched HSU the first time around and HSU and PSA the second time around. No real good reason I didn't pick one of those 2 companies, but I will definetly keep them in mind in the future - even if I can get this amp repaired I would like to add a second sub to the mix again.

Thank you very much!

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post #6428 of 6445 Old 02-03-2017, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by codee View Post
Sorry I got sidetracked and forgot to post back as it actually started working almost all the time. Unfortunately it doesn't work at all now though. Even if the sub seemingly engages and the power light is green there almost no output. If I play a test tone and turn the sub output on the receiver all the way up and the gain on the amp all the way up there is literally next to no output from the sub.

I got a new receiver from Denon under warranty so the sub was disconnected almost a week and it still doesn't work on the new receiver. At this point i'm not sure if there is anything I can do to repair it. I'm starting to research new subs but am somewhat skeptical of another internet direct sub...I've been burned now by Chase Home Theatre going out of business and now reaction audio seemingly disappearing. Just had some bad luck in picking them I guess.
Could you remind me of the product we were discussing? Which model ra do you have? ICE powered?

The newer klipch 15 slot port sub is a very good "big name" product at $699-749(?) if you go that route. Also, remember that hsu has been at this since 1990(?)...which is *much* longer than the majority of non ID companies..

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post #6429 of 6445 Old 02-03-2017, 10:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by codee View Post
Sorry I got sidetracked and forgot to post back as it actually started working almost all the time. Unfortunately it doesn't work at all now though. Even if the sub seemingly engages and the power light is green there almost no output. If I play a test tone and turn the sub output on the receiver all the way up and the gain on the amp all the way up there is literally next to no output from the sub.

I got a new receiver from Denon under warranty so the sub was disconnected almost a week and it still doesn't work on the new receiver. At this point i'm not sure if there is anything I can do to repair it. I'm starting to research new subs but am somewhat skeptical of another internet direct sub...I've been burned now by Chase Home Theatre going out of business and now reaction audio seemingly disappearing. Just had some bad luck in picking them I guess.
Could you remind me of the product we were discussing? Which model ra do you have? ICE powered?

The newer klipch 15 slot port sub is a very good "big name" product at $699-749(?) if you go that route. Also, remember that hsu has been at this since 1990(?)...which is *much* longer than the majority of non ID companies..

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
I have a Echo 18 that is seemingly dead at this point in time. I feel I can get much more "bang for my buck" going ID vs a brand sold at b&m stores primarily.

I looked at PSA and hsu in the past and they would be my leading contenders at this point in time I'd say.
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post #6430 of 6445 Old 02-03-2017, 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by codee View Post
I have a Echo 18 that is seemingly dead at this point in time. I feel I can get much more "bang for my buck" going ID vs a brand sold at b&m stores primarily.

I looked at PSA and hsu in the past and they would be my leading contenders at this point in time I'd say.
Before anything, I'd pop out the driver AND amp. Take all of 5 minutes with a power screw driver. This will let you check internal connections, and you can test the driver and possibly the amp too. Do you happen to have a good DMM?

When removing the driver be careful. One slip of the screw driver and you can easily put a hole in the surround. That is often an easy fix but best not to get to that point of course..

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post #6431 of 6445 Old 02-03-2017, 11:38 AM
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Tom makes a good point here...Could be a simple connection issues because many of RA products were poorly assembled.
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I have some RA products and can verify that the assembly varies wildly from product to product. If I were to do it over again I would go with PSA. Once my RA gear decides to die or if I can sell it for a decent price locally then I will be looking at PSA.

When I was looking, Tom wasn't offering any tower speakers and Jeremy was so that's all it took for me. Now that Tom is offering them I would definitely be interested in those.
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post #6433 of 6445 Old 02-03-2017, 12:51 PM
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Quote:
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I have a Echo 18 that is seemingly dead at this point in time.
Please reach out to Brian or Carol at SpeakerPower, as they supplied and can most certainly service the amplifier in your subwoofer. Let them know you purchased the subwoofer from Reaction Audio which uses the 700W amplifier (that's what SpeakerPower labels it) and you need it serviced. I'm sure they will take care of you. @SpeakerPower
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Originally Posted by TooPoor View Post
lz7j,

I contacted Paul and he knows exactly what I need (and has it). Your list will round out my BOM. I really appreciate the help.

Now about those active CX-10t...
Since it doesnt matter and RA is defunct, ask Paul to give you the TS parameters after the driver is built and before shipping. It would be good to know if the enclosure is a match for the driver. Ive had Pierce do a few builds for me, and I feel that IB is his strong point and being a car audio guy thats fine.

@tuxedocivic commented on a driver someone local bought and he helped with a box that was large and should have been larger. Im quite happy with the IB specific 18's he made. The 12's we're supposed to go a in a 2cuft box and need closer to a 12cuft box so I spent quite a bit of time with dsp to get it where I wanted it.
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post #6435 of 6445 Old 02-05-2017, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
Before anything, I'd pop out the driver AND amp. Take all of 5 minutes with a power screw driver. This will let you check internal connections, and you can test the driver and possibly the amp too. Do you happen to have a good DMM?

When removing the driver be careful. One slip of the screw driver and you can easily put a hole in the surround. That is often an easy fix but best not to get to that point of course..

Tom V.
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I will try to take it apart tomorrow after work, I have a DMM that I use for work - not sure if I would consider it "good" though" It's about a $80 unit

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I will try to take it apart tomorrow after work, I have a DMM that I use for work - not sure if I would consider it "good" though" It's about a $80 unit
That will work just fine for what you need, it could very possibly be what Tom said, I would physically check all wiring and connections and you may get lucky. Like BH and others have said who knows how the unit was assembled or if the DSP was done properly. Good luck.
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post #6437 of 6445 Old 02-27-2017, 07:42 PM
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I will try to take it apart tomorrow after work, I have a DMM that I use for work - not sure if I would consider it "good" though" It's about a $80 unit
That will work just fine for what you need, it could very possibly be what Tom said, I would physically check all wiring and connections and you may get lucky. Like BH and others have said who knows how the unit was assembled or if the DSP was done properly. Good luck.
Just got around to this finally, have to say I'm surprised at how small the amp actually is. It's very light, I guess the majority of the weight in this unit is the box.

All visible connections were tight but i repeated them anyways. No luck, I contacted the amp manufacturer and they said to ship it to them and they would repair it under warranty.


I got a SVS ultra 16 or whatever it's called to accompany this currently broken sub so once I get the amp back I should be in great shape!

Thanks for all the help guys -

Cody
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post #6438 of 6445 Old 02-28-2017, 12:05 AM
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I will try to take it apart tomorrow after work, I have a DMM that I use for work - not sure if I would consider it "good" though" It's about a $80 unit
That will work just fine for what you need, it could very possibly be what Tom said, I would physically check all wiring and connections and you may get lucky. Like BH and others have said who knows how the unit was assembled or if the DSP was done properly. Good luck.
Just got around to this finally, have to say I'm surprised at how small the amp actually is. It's very light, I guess the majority of the weight in this unit is the box.

All visible connections were tight but i repeated them anyways. No luck, I contacted the amp manufacturer and they said to ship it to them and they would repair it under warranty.


I got a SVS ultra 16 or whatever it's called to accompany this currently broken sub so once I get the amp back I should be in great shape!

Thanks for all the help guys -

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post #6439 of 6445 Old 08-22-2018, 10:11 PM
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I hate to resurrect an old thread, but........ I have an Echo 18 that the woofer went out shortly after receiving the unit, back in 2016. After Jeremy bailed and I couldn't get a replacement under warranty, it sat for awhile. I moved and just now got around to replacing the woofer. I pulled the defective unit out and there isn't an ounce of poly-fill in the cabinet. Has anyone else done maintenance on their sub and come across the same thing, is this the way all were built or is mine one of the last units out the door and no one cared? I discovered that Paul Pierce built the woofers for Reaction and he was extremely helpful in building another HT unit to meet the specs of the original.
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post #6440 of 6445 Old 08-23-2018, 04:22 AM
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I hate to resurrect an old thread, but........ I have an Echo 18 that the woofer went out shortly after receiving the unit, back in 2016. After Jeremy bailed and I couldn't get a replacement under warranty, it sat for awhile. I moved and just now got around to replacing the woofer. I pulled the defective unit out and there isn't an ounce of poly-fill in the cabinet. Has anyone else done maintenance on their sub and come across the same thing, is this the way all were built or is mine one of the last units out the door and no one cared? I discovered that Paul Pierce built the woofers for Reaction and he was extremely helpful in building another HT unit to meet the specs of the original.
There should be some polyfill in the box. I’m thinking at least a couple of pounds. If you could contact Paul I’m sure he could tell you how much.

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post #6441 of 6445 Old 08-23-2018, 06:53 AM
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There should be some polyfill in the box. I’m thinking at least a couple of pounds. If you could contact Paul I’m sure he could tell you how much.

DJ
djreef,

Thanks for the response. That was my thinking on the polyfill too. I have an email in to Paul but wanted to see if this was a common build practice on the RA subs. I`m looking forward to getting my HT set back up and I`m hoping this new woofer will last much longer than the last.
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post #6442 of 6445 Old 08-23-2018, 07:00 AM
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I hate to resurrect an old thread, but........ I have an Echo 18 that the woofer went out shortly after receiving the unit, back in 2016. After Jeremy bailed and I couldn't get a replacement under warranty, it sat for awhile. I moved and just now got around to replacing the woofer. I pulled the defective unit out and there isn't an ounce of poly-fill in the cabinet. Has anyone else done maintenance on their sub and come across the same thing, is this the way all were built or is mine one of the last units out the door and no one cared? I discovered that Paul Pierce built the woofers for Reaction and he was extremely helpful in building another HT unit to meet the specs of the original.
If the picture right above (post on 2-27) is indicative of ra's "polyfill" you're better off polyfill-less.

There's not a whole lot of variance with sub lining. Some quality brands don't use anything. Some use a thin layer, some use a thick layer. If the idea is to try to increase the effective enclosure volume thicker home insulation is always a common goto.

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post #6443 of 6445 Old 08-23-2018, 07:30 AM
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Yea if I remember correctly the whole idea of filling the box with poly-fill is to simulate the internal volume of the enclosure being larger then what it is. Often times large enclosures have nothing. I think it can also help with cab resonance too if the panels used are not very thick?
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post #6444 of 6445 Old 08-27-2018, 10:12 AM
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Thanks for the response. That was my thinking on the polyfill too. I have an email in to Paul but wanted to see if this was a common build practice on the RA subs. I`m looking forward to getting my HT set back up and I`m hoping this new woofer will last much longer than the last.
Paul is actually a good choice for info about RA subs as he helped design them (Jeremy wasn't an engineer nor did he have any practical experience so Paul handled a lot of those chores). He was instrumental with things like cabinet volume, drive parameters, etc. He likely helped with the amount of the acoustic damping as well.
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post #6445 of 6445 Old 09-02-2018, 11:04 AM
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Yea if I remember correctly the whole idea of filling the box with poly-fill is to simulate the internal volume of the enclosure being larger then what it is. Often times large enclosures have nothing. I think it can also help with cab resonance too if the panels used are not very thick?
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