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post #1 of 22 Old 03-09-2014, 03:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I have read for about a month, just about every night on budget subwoofers haha...anyways I have a 16 by 16 by 8 room...mostly all movie watching...275 dollar limit...and from amazon (amazon credit) subwoofer...I have boiled it down to polk505...nxg bas 500...bic f12...acoustich h100...or jbles250 I believe it was...any input?
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post #2 of 22 Old 03-10-2014, 02:06 AM
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Check out the $300 Sub thread that is stickied at the top of the forum smile.gif

https://www.avsforum.com/t/1364182/list-of-budget-subwoofers-300-and-less

and this thread may be of interest?

https://www.avsforum.com/t/1521115/looking-for-input-on-sub-choice
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post #3 of 22 Old 03-10-2014, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choppsho View Post

I have read for about a month, just about every night on budget subwoofers haha...anyways I have a 16 by 16 by 8 room...mostly all movie watching...275 dollar limit...and from amazon (amazon credit) subwoofer...I have boiled it down to polk505...nxg bas 500...bic f12...acoustich h100...or jbles250 I believe it was...any input?

Been there, done that.

After you've had your "budget" sub-woofer for a few months, you will rapidly come to the conclusion that the USD275 spent was a waste of money.

Therefore, my recommendation is to continue to save and purchase a quality sub-woofer that will add something of value to any future purchases you might make. I would set my sights on the Rythmik LV12R. It's double your budget. but it will offer more long-term satisfaction than any cheap sub-woofer could hope to provide.

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/LV12R.html
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post #4 of 22 Old 03-10-2014, 08:20 AM
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I would watch for the BIC PL-200 to drop into your price range. As it stands right now it's at $330. However I've seen it drop down to around your $275 price point before, I would just watch it and be ready to grab it as soon as it hits a good price for you.

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post #5 of 22 Old 03-10-2014, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by AllenA07 View Post

I would watch for the BIC PL-200 to drop into your price range. As it stands right now it's at $330. However I've seen it drop down to around your $275 price point before, I would just watch it and be ready to grab it as soon as it hits a good price for you.
This retailer have been known to accept $280 Best Offers
http://www.acousticsounddesign.com/core/view_BigProduct.cfm?pid=1555&sc
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post #6 of 22 Old 03-10-2014, 08:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Choppsho View Post

I have read for about a month, just about every night on budget subwoofers haha...anyways I have a 16 by 16 by 8 room...mostly all movie watching...275 dollar limit...and from amazon (amazon credit) subwoofer...I have boiled it down to polk505...nxg bas 500...bic f12...acoustich h100...or jbles250 I believe it was...any input?

 



Do you have a subwoofer now??? Have you had one in the past if so which one? I ask so we know what you are expecting from a sub. Your room is fairly small so you may benefit from a sealed sub. I know this would be way out of your price range but 2 subs would probably be best.

Also you have pretty much the worst dimensions for a room as far as bass is conserned, but you can still achieve good bass. Make sure your listening position is NOT in the middle of the room front to back also make sure you are NOT sitting up against the back wall (give yourself a minimum of 1' behind your couch to the wall (I'd probably sit about 11 to 13 feet back)).

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post #7 of 22 Old 03-10-2014, 08:51 AM
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Save your money until you can buy a SVS PB-1000, HSU VTF-2 MK4, or a Rythmik LV12R. If that is not a option then buy a Dayton Sub 1500.
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post #8 of 22 Old 03-10-2014, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the feedback. I have come from a cerwinvega lw15 to a nice acoustic research with a bob carver amp 12 inch down firing I forget the model...to...and the suspense builds...the energy take classic set with its wonderful 8 inch woofer haha...I had sold my old theater setup and purchased the take classics when I went off to college...now it's time to get rid of that box set and back to the real world of home theater. There is a guy locally selling a used pb1000 for 400 that's on the threads here but he lives 2.5 hours away and I haven't had the time to go check it out. Then I got this amazon credit for returning some school books so I figured I'd use it there. But maybe I will put that towards some new mains and then take some tax return money and pick up the pb if he still has it or just bite the bullet on a new one....I know that it's my best option to just buy something nice to start off...I am just in a rush to have some real sound again....
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post #9 of 22 Old 03-10-2014, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Oh and the room may be a hair larger that was just an estimate late last night pondering this ongoing dilemma haha
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post #10 of 22 Old 03-10-2014, 10:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post

Save your money until you can buy a SVS PB-1000, HSU VTF-2 MK4, or a Rythmik LV12R.

These would be my choice. Save until you can afford one. There is a good increase in quality going with one of these subs. You will appreciate the sound once you get one smile.gif

Your questions are answered: Speaker FAQ
Living room HT: Energy RC-50, Ascend Sierra Horizon w/RAAL, Ascend Sierra 1, PSB Imagine XA | PSA V1500 and CHT SS 18.1 | Denon X4200W | modified Dayton SA1000
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post #11 of 22 Old 03-11-2014, 06:20 AM
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Also, keep an eye on the outlet sections at SVS and Outlaw.  If you had the money now for example, you could snag the equivalent of the $630 HSU VTF2.4 from Outlaw for $499(LFM Plus).

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post #12 of 22 Old 03-11-2014, 06:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyrob425 View Post

This retailer have been known to accept $280 Best Offers
http://www.acousticsounddesign.com/core/view_BigProduct.cfm?pid=1555&sc

Try coupon code - TV15 and the price will be 279.65.
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post #13 of 22 Old 03-11-2014, 08:01 AM
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I can confirm: Buying a budget sub like a BIC F12 (got mine a couple weeks ago, from Amazon) will only leave you wanting more (I'm already wishing I'd saved that ~$200 so I could put it towards a more expensive sub...like $500 minimum but really more like $800). Slippery slope I know, there's always "for just -this- much more you can get that one", but apparently at about $500 (and then once more around $800) there is a very large jump in the quality/performance of subs. 

 

I mean, nothing against the F12, it is the best sub I have ever personally owned (had a Polk PSW10 the past 5 years) but it's still a budget unit, not a miracle worker.


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post #14 of 22 Old 03-11-2014, 08:37 PM - Thread Starter
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Now all I need is some people to use their year upgrades so I can save a little bit and get an outlet/bstock unit haha
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post #15 of 22 Old 03-12-2014, 07:18 AM
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Originally Posted by flickhtguru View Post

Make sure your listening position is NOT in the middle of the room front to back

What's wrong with sitting in the middle of the room?
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post #16 of 22 Old 03-12-2014, 07:54 AM
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A dead center MLP is almost always in a very bad null. For sub placement and MLP positioning its usually best to stick with 1/3 to 1/5 increments of the room.

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post #17 of 22 Old 03-12-2014, 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Iain- View Post


Been there, done that.

After you've had your "budget" sub-woofer for a few months, you will rapidly come to the conclusion that the USD275 spent was a waste of money.

Therefore, my recommendation is to continue to save and purchase a quality sub-woofer that will add something of value to any future purchases you might make. 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by basshead81 View Post

Save your money until you can buy a SVS PB-1000, HSU VTF-2 MK4, or a Rythmik LV12R. If that is not a option then buy a Dayton Sub 1500.

I agree with these posts. IMO it's a much better use of money to wait and save, if you can get to the point of a $500 budget the rewards would be well worth it. 


Subwoofers: PSA TV36 iPal X2 ...Speakers: PSA MTM-210T L/R - PSA MTM-210C Center- PSA MT110SR's Surrounds - RSL C34E Atmos... Motion Actuators: Crowson Shadow 8 - X2
Video: Samsung UN65KS9000 4K SUHD - Oppo UDP-203... AVR:Denon X4400... Gaming: XBOX ONE S

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post #18 of 22 Old 03-12-2014, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by flickhtguru View Post

A dead center MLP is almost always in a very bad null. For sub placement and MLP positioning its usually best to stick with 1/3 to 1/5 increments of the room.

Why is it almost always in a very bad null?
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post #19 of 22 Old 03-12-2014, 12:41 PM
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Rather than me try to explain it and screw it up I'll let you read. And who knows maybe im just not understanding correctly. So heres a good read on standing waves room modes and nulls.

http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=48286

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post #20 of 22 Old 03-12-2014, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by flickhtguru View Post

Rather than me try to explain it and screw it up I'll let you read. And who knows maybe im just not understanding correctly. So heres a good read on standing waves room modes and nulls.

http://forum.blu-ray.com/showthread.php?t=48286

I don't think you understand it correctly.

There's nothing special about the middle of the room with regards to room nulls. What happens is people publish papers explaining room nulls and provide a simple example whereby they pick a frequency that happens to correspond to a wavelength that fits evenly with a room dimension and then demonstrate how a room null forms in the middle of the room at that one frequency. People conclude that the middle of the room is bad because they don't fully understand what they're reading.. In reality, every room has nulls at different locations at varying frequencies. If you have a single sub, it's almost impossible to not have nulls at different frequencies all over the room. That's why it's recommended to use multiple subs in a room.

Think about it. If the middle of the room always had a null, then if you placed a subwoofer in the middle of the room and did a sub crawl, you wouldn't be able to hear it anywhere in the room. Does that make sense?
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post #21 of 22 Old 03-12-2014, 02:38 PM
 
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Originally Posted by flickhtguru View Post

Rather than me try to explain it and screw it up I'll let you read. And who knows maybe im just not understanding correctly.
Close. IMO the information in that link is of limited value, as it doesn't deal with the actual cause of nulls, which is the distance from the subs and the LP to the room boundaries. The number one bass killer is the distance from the LP to the wall behind it. If that's 1/4 wavelength and there isn't a sub at that rear wall there will be a null at the LP. 1/4 wavelength varies from 3.5 feet at 80Hz to 14 feet at 20Hz, so placing the LP anywhere in that zone from the rear wall will cause a null. If it's unavoidable to do so then a second sub at the rear of the room is a necessity. In the OPs case middle of the room is about 8 feet, so a single sub would cause a null centered around 35Hz, and that would not be good. Moving the LP to less than 3.5 feet from the rear wall would be a good idea.
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post #22 of 22 Old 03-13-2014, 10:14 AM
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This calculation is spot on. In my 20 foot long room, my MLP is 6 feet away from the back wall and 14 feet away from the front wall. The front subs have a null at (1130/6)/4 ~ 47 Hz and the back sub has a null at (1130/14)/4 ~=20 hz both of which exactly match my graphs. Is there a way to figure the effect of the side walls as well?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Fitzmaurice View Post

Close. IMO the information in that link is of limited value, as it doesn't deal with the actual cause of nulls, which is the distance from the subs and the LP to the room boundaries. The number one bass killer is the distance from the LP to the wall behind it. If that's 1/4 wavelength and there isn't a sub at that rear wall there will be a null at the LP. 1/4 wavelength varies from 3.5 feet at 80Hz to 14 feet at 20Hz, so placing the LP anywhere in that zone from the rear wall will cause a null. If it's unavoidable to do so then a second sub at the rear of the room is a necessity. In the OPs case middle of the room is about 8 feet, so a single sub would cause a null centered around 35Hz, and that would not be good. Moving the LP to less than 3.5 feet from the rear wall would be a good idea.

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Speakers: 3 JTR 212HTR (LCR), 2 Jtr Single 8LP (S), 2 JTR Triple 12LF (SB)) , 4 Volt 10LX (Atmos)
Subwoofers: 10 Sealed UXL-18, 5 Crowson Shadow 8 transducers, 3 Buttkicker LFE
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