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post #391 of 891 Old 06-01-2015, 10:54 PM
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[quote=carp;34686521]
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Originally Posted by Peterc613 View Post
Which 18" are you using for near field? Is it sealed/ported? how large is the box volume?


It's a SI 18. It's a sealed box, 4 cu. ft.
How's that working for tactile response - are you on a slab foundation?

Was the box from someone like DIY sound group or did you make it?
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post #392 of 891 Old 06-03-2015, 09:23 AM
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Anybody else receive shipping confirmation yet? I know Jeff said there's a few more going out today, hopefully mine will be in that batch. Maybe I should give Jeff a call since he hasn't been responding to emails.
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post #393 of 891 Old 06-03-2015, 09:53 AM
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All the Captivator 1400 (minus custom) ordered on the pre-sale (may15 or before) will be out the door by the end of the week. If I missed anyones email than I'm terribly sorry and will go through all emails and voice mails again today.
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post #394 of 891 Old 06-04-2015, 08:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff Permanian View Post
All the Captivator 1400 (minus custom) ordered on the pre-sale (may15 or before) will be out the door by the end of the week. If I missed anyones email than I'm terribly sorry and will go through all emails and voice mails again today.
Building shipping speakers and subs essentially by yourself, moving your entire business operation to another state and you can't keep up with a few emails/voice mails?

Come on you slacker ...
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post #395 of 891 Old 06-04-2015, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by RMK! View Post
Building shipping speakers and subs essentially by yourself, moving your entire business operation to another state and you can't keep up with a few emails/voice mails?

Come on you slacker ...
Oh, and don't forget engineering, designing, and hand picking every components by himself too..
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post #396 of 891 Old 06-05-2015, 12:38 PM
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All but two pre-ordered Captivator 1400 has shipped. JTR is still the only one to have Data-Bass test subwoofers with the new ICE Power modular amplifiers

Last edited by Jeff Permanian; 06-05-2015 at 12:49 PM.
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post #397 of 891 Old 06-06-2015, 03:03 PM
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Christmas in June !

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post #398 of 891 Old 06-06-2015, 06:20 PM
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Finally got my cap 1400. Ran Dirac on it and got a big null from 37hz to 55hz regardless of where I put my sub. I sit around 12 ft from the sub. Any idea what I can do to solve this? Can hardware cause a null like that?
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post #399 of 891 Old 06-06-2015, 08:21 PM
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Just got it yesterday from South Cal group buy. I took it out of my small hatchback, put it on a utility dolly and moved it into my family room all by myself (I am 5'6", 160 ). It was not easy but if you have some boards and empty boxes, and really think about what you are gonna go, it is manageable.

Please pardon the background wall. It still needs another coat of paint.

Cap 1400, grill on. I put my 24" speaker stand next to it for scale.


Cap 1400, grill off.


Since I am a stickler for fit and finish, I took some close-up shots.

Closeup of Cap 1400 matte black paint finish.






I was afraid I was going to see some seams or imperfection because I know it is harder to work with Baltic Birch. But I can't see any seams.
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Last edited by chucky7; 06-06-2015 at 09:33 PM.
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post #400 of 891 Old 06-06-2015, 09:49 PM
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^^ Yes, JTR's craftsmanship on the cabs are tops. No visible seams. And solid as tanks..
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post #401 of 891 Old 06-06-2015, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhed View Post
^^ Yes, JTR's craftsmanship on the cabs are tops. No visible seams. And solid as tanks..

While it never bothered me with my 228's I could still clearly see seams with my cabinets.







That doesn't take anything away from them though, they were still rock solid top quality cabinets though.
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post #402 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 06:52 AM
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If I did not already have subs, 3 of these would be in my room. Love that beastly driver.
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post #403 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 07:12 AM
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so regardless of where I move the sub and listening position, I get the same drop on the curve. Maybe this is the wrong thread to ask? If so, I am sorry.


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post #404 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aspen0220 View Post
so regardless of where I move the sub and listening position, I get the same drop on the curve. Maybe this is the wrong thread to ask? If so, I am sorry.


That's odd that the same dip is there no matter where the sub is... any chance you could move where your main seat is? Even if you can't I would try measuring from a different seat and see if that dip is gone.
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post #405 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 07:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aspen0220 View Post
so regardless of where I move the sub and listening position, I get the same drop on the curve. Maybe this is the wrong thread to ask? If so, I am sorry.


Did your previous sub produce the same dip at about 45 hz? Moving the sub is the best way to try to tame that dip. Even just moving the sub 90 degrees can make a difference. Is your room sealed? What are your rooms dimensions? What locations in your room did you try? Can you post a picture of your room?
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post #406 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
That's odd that the same dip is there no matter where the sub is... any chance you could move where your main seat is? Even if you can't I would try measuring from a different seat and see if that dip is gone.
I will try to move around more. Even though my room is not treated, I have an option of moving my sub anywhere I want. So far I tried a bunch of different positions, from the left, from the right, facing straight on both sides, and facing toward LP on both sides, all have the same result. I moved my sofa from 15ft to 12ft and still get the same result. I'm not expecting a perfect flat response but that's a big dip. Hopefully it's just room acoustic problem and nothing else.
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post #407 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 08:41 AM
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I thought that turning the sub make no difference.

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post #408 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 09:07 AM
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I use the Velondyne SMS for bass management in my room. i used Outlaw Audio's tutorial for setting it up. I liked they way they added a little humor into it. One good point they made when looking for the best subwoofer spot was to place the sub at the listening position and then move the mic around the room instead of the sub to find the best spot. Once found then place the sub there. If you have a long enough mic cord with the set up that you have it might be worth a try.

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post #409 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 10:50 AM
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Make sure to turn off your sms-1, and audyssey, and any other form of eq, before you move and measure.
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post #410 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 10:59 AM
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Christmas in June !

Pete, how many did you get? I can't remember...2 or 3?

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post #411 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 11:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chucky7 View Post
Just got it yesterday from South Cal group buy. I took it out of my small hatchback, put it on a utility dolly and moved it into my family room all by myself (I am 5'6", 160 ). It was not easy but if you have some boards and empty boxes, and really think about what you are gonna go, it is manageable.

Please pardon the background wall. It still needs another coat of paint.

Cap 1400, grill on. I put my 24" speaker stand next to it for scale.


Cap 1400, grill off.


Since I am a stickler for fit and finish, I took some close-up shots.

Closeup of Cap 1400 matte black paint finish.






I was afraid I was going to see some seams or imperfection because I know it is harder to work with Baltic Birch. But I can't see any seams.

Congrats Chucky, lets us know your impression when you get it dialed in.

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post #412 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 11:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post
That's odd that the same dip is there no matter where the sub is... any chance you could move where your main seat is? Even if you can't I would try measuring from a different seat and see if that dip is gone.

Agree here...if the sub is moved but the response is the same it's almost like the same measurement is being loaded from cache or something because moving the sub (and your seating) should produce different results. It shouldn't be the identical response.

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post #413 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nabs17 View Post
Agree here...if the sub is moved but the response is the same it's almost like the same measurement is being loaded from cache or something because moving the sub (and your seating) should produce different results. It shouldn't be the identical response.
I want to start eliminating problems before I do more measurement. What is the best way for me to test to make sure the sub is working as intended before I move to another solution. If I place the mic closer to the sub, will that be a good way to eliminates sub problems?
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post #414 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 11:19 AM
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Do a nearfield measurement with no EQ at all in place.


Turn the volume down, and put the mic tip right next to the subwoofer cone's center dust cap. Then run a frequency response sweep. The close proximity to the speaker cone's center dust cap should largely remove any room issues (modes or nulls) and give you assurance that the sub is not measuring strangely.
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post #415 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aspen0220 View Post
I want to start eliminating problems before I do more measurement. What is the best way for me to test to make sure the sub is working as intended before I move to another solution. If I place the mic closer to the sub, will that be a good way to eliminates sub problems?
I think I would do what other's have recommended which is the sub crawl....put the sub at the LP and measure around your room, specifically in places where you had the sub to verify the measurements you've been receiving.
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post #416 of 891 Old 06-07-2015, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aspen0220 View Post
Finally got my cap 1400. Ran Dirac on it and got a big null from 37hz to 55hz regardless of where I put my sub. I sit around 12 ft from the sub. Any idea what I can do to solve this? Can hardware cause a null like that?

Are your room dimensions approximately 10' x 15' x 8' ?

You could have a Null at those two frequencies because of a problem with Room Modes or Standing Waves caused by the shape of your room. These two issues are inextricably related to the physical dimensions of your home theater.

A room mode is essentially a resonance, an area of increased amplitude that results when a sound wave reflects off a boundary surface (wall, floor, or ceiling) and combines in phase with the original direct sound wave. What causes the direct and reflected waves to combine in phase is simply a whole-number correlation between the length of the sound wave and the length (or width, or height) of the room.



Antinodes and nodes

Areas of maximum amplitude, representing the maximum change in air pressure, are called Antinodes. Areas of minimum change in air pressure (essentially the zero-crossings between positive and negative halves of the pressure wave cycle) are called Nodes.

If a sound wave is exactly one-half the length of any single room dimension, its nodes will be at that boundary surface. The reflection off of that parallel surface will be in phase with the initial sound wave, the antinodes will line up in space/time and reinforce one another, and there will be an increase (Peak) or decrease (Null) in amplitude at that fundamental frequency.

This phenomenon not only occurs for frequencies whose wavelength is one-half a room dimension; it also occurs at any whole number multiples of that frequency…i.e., harmonics of that fundamental. Double that fundamental frequency and a full wave cycle now fits in the space between boundaries. The nodes will still occur at the room boundaries, causing the reflections to be in phase.

Standing waves

These sound waves whose wavelength is equal to one-half (or any whole number multiple of) a room dimension, and hence whose nodes occur at boundary surfaces, are called Standing Waves. There are three types of standing waves: Axial Mode is the name given to standing waves that exist between two parallel surfaces (front and back walls, left and right side walls, or floor and ceiling). Other types of standing waves include the Tangential Mode, where the sound wave bounces off of four distinct surfaces, and the Oblique Mode, where all six room boundaries are involved. Since axial modes are the most troublesome standing waves in home theaters, they are the primary concern.

Axial Room Modes






Tangential Room Modes






Oblique Room Modes






How to measure and calculate

To calculate the axial modes of a rectangular room, one uses the formula

1130 / 2L = f

1130 is the approximate speed of sound in feet per second, and L represents the length of a room dimension in feet. The result f is the frequency of the axial mode in Hertz. So for example, if your home theater ceiling is 8' :

1130 divided by (2 times 8), or

1130 divided by 16

equals 70.6

...there will be a standing wave (between floor and ceiling) at 70.6 Hz. For any rectangular room, there will be a standing wave at each of the three fundamental axial modes (corresponding to the room’s length, width, and height) as well as at the whole number multiples of those three frequencies.

And this is only the effect of the first two axial modes of one dimension (height). You can calculate the fundamental axial modes for each of the three dimensions of your room using the formula 1130 / 2L = f. Multiply each of those three frequencies by 2 through 8 to figure out the first eight multiples of each axial mode. (You’re only concerned with the first eight multiples because above 300–400 Hz, standing waves have less of a destructive influence on sound.)

You should wind up with a list of of 24 frequencies (for each of the three types of standing waves) with a standing wave at each one of those frequencies. If they’re fairly evenly spread out, it should not be a problem. However, if any of those standing waves are within 5 Hz of each other, these will be problem areas in your room’s frequency response.


Axial, Tangential and Oblique Standing Waves



If your overall home theater dimensions are 15' x 10' x 8', plotting the axial modes would indicate potential problems around 37.7 Hz (the 15' dimension), . It also points to the likelihood of problems at 56.5 Hz (the 10' dimension). You can also use one of the room mode calculator's available on-line:


Room Mode Calculators


Graphic

http://amroc.andymel.eu/


List - Frequency/Amplitude

http://www.bobgolds.com/Mode/RoomModes.htm
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post #417 of 891 Old 06-08-2015, 05:25 AM
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I'm sure he has room mode issues, but that is not the problem in this case. Something is wrong in the measurement chain for him to get the exact same null in a sweep no matter where the sub is located in his room.

Aspen, what are your main speakers?
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post #418 of 891 Old 06-08-2015, 07:10 AM
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^^ Yes, JTR's craftsmanship on the cabs are tops. No visible seams. And solid as tanks..
My 2012 Triple 12s showed the seam like JBrowns pictures above. My 2015 212s do not show the seam and the textured finish is more rigid. Somewhere along the way the finishing process has gotten better. Even the cabinet's round over edges are more pronounced.

Chris
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My 2012 Triple 12s showed the seam like JBrowns pictures above. My 2015 212s do not show the seam and the textured finish is more rigid. Somewhere along the way the finishing process has gotten better. Even the cabinet's round over edges are more pronounced.
Guess the cabs got improved over the years? No seams showing on any of the 11 JTR cabs I got..
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post #420 of 891 Old 06-08-2015, 08:28 AM
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Guess the cabs got improved over the years? No seams showing on any of the 11 JTR cabs I got..
Well I have no idea how many cabinets I have owned and I never saw a seam. Of course, I also never looked that close ... it was unpack, install and use (usually behind an AT screen).

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