SVS Unleashes 16-Ultra Series Subwoofers Featuring 8" Voice Coil Drivers - Page 125 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3721 of 3934 Old 09-27-2017, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Pradeep2 View Post
Is this the current pricing?

SB16

Single: $1999
Dual: $3799

S1

Single: $2200+shipping
Dual: $4400+shipping - not sure what the quantity discount is.
3699$ two SB16's shipped (ebay)



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post #3722 of 3934 Old 09-28-2017, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Luis Amorim View Post
I changed my Sb13 for a sb16, so far I'm happy with it.
I have on my yamaha 2050 +0.5 db and is not SB16 -22 correct?
Low Pass filter at 100hz and 22db

trim is at +2 with extra bass on the yamaha
central at 80hz
front is 60hz
back to 80hz
What do you think?
Good advice above.

Recommend all speakers set to Small. Crossovers are fine. As an aside, Extra Bass will do nothing unless the mains are set to Large.

Recommend setting Yamaha trim to -8.5 and SVS trim to -14 (no change in calibration level but a more optimal gain structure in AVR and subwoofer)

Disable the low pass in the subwoofer - it's not needed - the AVR is already low passing the signal being sent to the subwoofer.

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post #3723 of 3934 Old 09-28-2017, 10:54 AM
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Hey group...


I just purchased and am setting up my new SB-16. I have a Denon AVR-X7200WA driving the fronts and surrounds of my home theater. I connected the subwoofer, and it appears there is absolutely no sound coming out of it? In doing the test tones, the subwoofer shows up but there is no sound coming out of it at all. All other speakers work fine. The front panel of the SB work as does the Bluetooth functionality with my iPhone app. Being that this is my 3rd Flagship Denon receiver in a row, I am pretty confident nothing is disabled (especially being that a subwoofer shows up in speaker set up and when I am calibrating via test tones). I have changed my RCA plug running between the receiver and sub in the event that was the issue...but still nothing.


Additionally, when I turn the subwoofer on and off...there is no definitive thud, or any indication (other than the front panel lighting up) that the subwoofer has been activated.


Is it possible that the front panel works, but the amp is not working? Has anybody had a similar issue that they were able to resolve (fuses in the sub?).


Thanks in advance for your help!!
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post #3724 of 3934 Old 09-28-2017, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by sathron View Post
Hey group...


I just purchased and am setting up my new SB-16. I have a Denon AVR-X7200WA driving the fronts and surrounds of my home theater. I connected the subwoofer, and it appears there is absolutely no sound coming out of it? In doing the test tones, the subwoofer shows up but there is no sound coming out of it at all. All other speakers work fine. The front panel of the SB work as does the Bluetooth functionality with my iPhone app. Being that this is my 3rd Flagship Denon receiver in a row, I am pretty confident nothing is disabled (especially being that a subwoofer shows up in speaker set up and when I am calibrating via test tones). I have changed my RCA plug running between the receiver and sub in the event that was the issue...but still nothing.


Additionally, when I turn the subwoofer on and off...there is no definitive thud, or any indication (other than the front panel lighting up) that the subwoofer has been activated.


Is it possible that the front panel works, but the amp is not working? Has anybody had a similar issue that they were able to resolve (fuses in the sub?).


Thanks in advance for your help!!
Sorry for asking, but did you turn up the gain on the sub itself?

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
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post #3725 of 3934 Old 09-28-2017, 08:37 PM
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Has anyone had any experience where the SB16 doesn't want to come out of auto stand by at lower volumes?

I can play the same scene 2 different times. One at a lower volume again at a lightly higher volume. Sub comes out of standby when volume is increased. Is there something I'm missing?
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post #3726 of 3934 Old 09-28-2017, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Sammie2980 View Post
Has anyone had any experience where the SB16 doesn't want to come out of auto stand by at lower volumes?

I can play the same scene 2 different times. One at a lower volume again at a lightly higher volume. Sub comes out of standby when volume is increased. Is there something I'm missing?
That's the way "auto" works. It detects the signal coming from your avr to the sub, if it isn't strong enough, it will not detect it and turn on
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post #3727 of 3934 Old 09-28-2017, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by duffus2 View Post
Sorry for asking, but did you turn up the gain on the sub itself?

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Yes....turned it all the way up to 0
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post #3728 of 3934 Old 09-29-2017, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by duffus2 View Post
That's the way "auto" works. It detects the signal coming from your avr to the sub, if it isn't strong enough, it will not detect it and turn on
lol right I figured that. What I'm trying to figure out is this. Same content playing with an SVS SB12, auto standby on. Would pick up the signal and turn on. No problem. With the SB16, same content only comes out of auto standby when the volume at a certain level. I would think it would detect it and turn on. The signal is there. Just curious if anyone has experienced that scenario.

Will probably need to reference my calibration settings for SB12, just thought I would check here if anyone had any ideas of a setting I'm missing

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post #3729 of 3934 Old 09-29-2017, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sammie2980 View Post
lol right I figured that. What I'm trying to figure out is this. Same content playing with an SVS SB12, auto standby on. Would pick up the signal and turn on. No problem. With the SB16, same content only comes out of auto standby when the volume at a certain level. I would think it would detect it and turn on. The signal is there. Just curious if anyone has experienced that scenario.

Will probably need to reference my calibration settings for SB12, just thought I would check here if anyone had any ideas of a setting I'm missing

Sometimes it can help to reduce the Subwoofers gain/volume and add to the AVR's Sub trim (whilst keeping in the negative)
That's the great thing about the digital display on the Ultras, you can (for example) reduce the gain/volume on the SB16 by 5dB and then add exactly 5dB to the AVR's sub trim and, as Ed pointed out to Luis, still be at the exact same calibrated level. MUCH harder to do with the gain dial on my PB-2000's

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post #3730 of 3934 Old 09-29-2017, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sathron View Post
Hey group...


I just purchased and am setting up my new SB-16. I have a Denon AVR-X7200WA driving the fronts and surrounds of my home theater. I connected the subwoofer, and it appears there is absolutely no sound coming out of it? In doing the test tones, the subwoofer shows up but there is no sound coming out of it at all. All other speakers work fine. The front panel of the SB work as does the Bluetooth functionality with my iPhone app. Being that this is my 3rd Flagship Denon receiver in a row, I am pretty confident nothing is disabled (especially being that a subwoofer shows up in speaker set up and when I am calibrating via test tones). I have changed my RCA plug running between the receiver and sub in the event that was the issue...but still nothing.


Additionally, when I turn the subwoofer on and off...there is no definitive thud, or any indication (other than the front panel lighting up) that the subwoofer has been activated.


Is it possible that the front panel works, but the amp is not working? Has anybody had a similar issue that they were able to resolve (fuses in the sub?).


Thanks in advance for your help!!
Please contact SVS Customer Service at [email protected]. We'll assist you in troubleshooting to determine if the problem is the subwoofer or an upstream set-up issue. Thanks.
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post #3731 of 3934 Old 09-29-2017, 07:50 AM
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PC13 ultra or PB16 ultra new theater build

I already have one PC13-Ultra and a Klipsch SW12 in my current theater . All of the 6 dedicated seats also have tactile vibration ( bass shakers) . Overall the experience from this
in a 12 X 30ft theater has been more than sufficient .

Problem is, I am moving to a new home , building a new theater. The new theater will be bigger by volume in that it will have a high vaulted ceiling the footprint now 14 X 28ft
12ft high at the vaulted peak.

I'm sure these subs would be adequate BUT I'm thinking a bit more visceral for impact and wondered what needs to be done to bring this up a few notches . Would it be best to
add another PC13-Ultra or add a PB16-Ultra . Neither will be imposing in this space I have, in fact I can virtually tuck both out of sight in lowered side wall space as necessary .

Will two PC13-Ultra out perform one PB16-Ultra, should I mix them up, are there better options. I'm actually building out a screen wall, the subs could go there and be hidden, I
have plenty of options at this point.

All opinions and suggestions welcome .

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post #3732 of 3934 Old 09-29-2017, 09:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roxiedog13 View Post
I already have one PC13-Ultra and a Klipsch SW12 in my current theater . All of the 6 dedicated seats also have tactile vibration ( bass shakers) . Overall the experience from this
in a 12 X 30ft theater has been more than sufficient .

Problem is, I am moving to a new home , building a new theater. The new theater will be bigger by volume in that it will have a high vaulted ceiling the footprint now 14 X 28ft
12ft high at the vaulted peak.

I'm sure these subs would be adequate BUT I'm thinking a bit more visceral for impact and wondered what needs to be done to bring this up a few notches . Would it be best to
add another PC13-Ultra or add a PB16-Ultra . Neither will be imposing in this space I have, in fact I can virtually tuck both out of sight in lowered side wall space as necessary .

Will two PC13-Ultra out perform one PB16-Ultra, should I mix them up, are there better options. I'm actually building out a screen wall, the subs could go there and be hidden, I
have plenty of options at this point.

All opinions and suggestions welcome .
Hi,

If the two subs are going to be on the front wall, and about the same distance from the main listening position, then I would prefer to go with two identical subs if I were you. If you were going to be putting a PB16 on the front wall, and a PC13 nearfield behind your listening position, it would be relatively easy to make up the roughly 5.5db difference in max SPL (from about 35Hz down) with the difference in distance from the MLP.

But, with both subs roughly equidistant from your listening position, I would either go with dual PC13's, or if you want a really big upgrade, with dual PB16's. Just for comparison purposes, a PB13 is about 1.5db more powerful than a PC13 (due to the slighter larger cabinet volume), and a PB16 is about 4db more powerful than a PB13 from about 35Hz and under (down to about 15Hz). That's how I came up with the 5.5db difference between the PC13 and the PB16, although most of that difference will be concentrated in the <35Hz frequencies.

Two PC13's would be a nice upgrade. Two PB16's would be a very substantial upgrade. But, in this particular circumstance, I wouldn't mix them.

Regards,
Mike
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* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #3733 of 3934 Old 09-29-2017, 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

If the two subs are going to be on the front wall, and about the same distance from the main listening position, then I would prefer to go with two identical subs if I were you. If you were going to be putting a PB16 on the front wall, and a PC13 nearfield behind your listening position, it would be relatively easy to make up the roughly 5.5db difference in max SPL (from about 35Hz down) with the difference in distance from the MLP.

But, with both subs roughly equidistant from your listening position, I would either go with dual PC13's, or if you want a really big upgrade, with dual PB16's. Just for comparison purposes, a PB13 is about 1.5db more powerful than a PC13 (due to the slighter larger cabinet volume), and a PB16 is about 4db more powerful than a PB13 from about 35Hz and under (down to about 15Hz). That's how I came up with the 5.5db difference between the PC13 and the PB16, although most of that difference will be concentrated in the <35Hz frequencies.

Two PC13's would be a nice upgrade. Two PB16's would be a very substantial upgrade. But, in this particular circumstance, I wouldn't mix them.

Regards,
Mike
These are similar problems/choices in my room. I'm currently without a working sub and am looking at SVS. The PB16 is desirable sitting in the front position under the TV but I'm concerned that it's depth may be a bit much for my wife to swallow. If I go dual, I'd rather put a sub behind the couch but and there clearly isn'y enough room for a PB16 and barely enough for a PB13. But having the woofer of the PB13 so close might have the effect of a transducer.

Anyway, two 13s may end up being my path...
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post #3734 of 3934 Old 09-30-2017, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
Good advice above.

Recommend all speakers set to Small. Crossovers are fine. As an aside, Extra Bass will do nothing unless the mains are set to Large.

Recommend setting Yamaha trim to -8.5 and SVS trim to -14 (no change in calibration level but a more optimal gain structure in AVR and subwoofer)

Disable the low pass in the subwoofer - it's not needed - the AVR is already low passing the signal being sent to the subwoofer.
Thank you for the help.
I already did the calibration and it was in AV-8.5 and in SB16 -15, I'm probably going to go to -14 but I want to listen first.


Extra Bass is OF now.
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post #3735 of 3934 Old 09-30-2017, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sevenfeet View Post
These are similar problems/choices in my room. I'm currently without a working sub and am looking at SVS. The PB16 is desirable sitting in the front position under the TV but I'm concerned that it's depth may be a bit much for my wife to swallow. If I go dual, I'd rather put a sub behind the couch but and there clearly isn'y enough room for a PB16 and barely enough for a PB13. But having the woofer of the PB13 so close might have the effect of a transducer.

Anyway, two 13s may end up being my path...
Hi,

Two PB13's could be very nice. As you consider your options, remember that you can turn the subs 90 degrees to make them fit better in tight spaces. I have PB16's with a nearfield (2') PB13 and they play very well together. I also find that most of us adjust very quickly to the size of the large subwoofers, particularly if they have good proportions and a nice finish, as the big SVS subs do.

There are a number of bass enthusiasts who deliberately put subwoofers right up against their chairs or sofas, with the drivers and ports firing directly into their backs. That greatly increases the tactile effects. But, others turn subs to the side to make them fit. If a PB13 (or a PB16, for that matter) is a tight fit in the space behind your couch, turning the sub sideways wouldn't affect what you hear at all, and you would still get increased tactile energy from the close proximity.

Regards,
Mike

GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
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post #3736 of 3934 Old 09-30-2017, 07:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Luis Amorim View Post
Thank you for the help.
I already did the calibration and it was in AV-8.5 and in SB16 -15, I'm probably going to go to -14 but I want to listen first.


Extra Bass is OF now.

forget to thank Ben Tan and jamiebosco , Thank you for the help.
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post #3737 of 3934 Old 09-30-2017, 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by jamiebosco View Post
Sometimes it can help to reduce the Subwoofers gain/volume and add to the AVR's Sub trim (whilst keeping in the negative)
That's the great thing about the digital display on the Ultras, you can (for example) reduce the gain/volume on the SB16 by 5dB and then add exactly 5dB to the AVR's sub trim and, as Ed pointed out to Luis, still be at the exact same calibrated level. MUCH harder to do with the gain dial on my PB-2000's
Thx man that fixed it right up. That was exactly what it was. I checked my previous sub calibration and set the trim to the previous setting and lowered the volume on the SVS and that did teh trick. Now it kicks on when I am expecting it to
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post #3738 of 3934 Old 09-30-2017, 12:06 PM
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Happy to help!
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post #3739 of 3934 Old 09-30-2017, 01:14 PM
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Thx man that fixed it right up. That was exactly what it was. I checked my previous sub calibration and set the trim to the previous setting and lowered the volume on the SVS and that did teh trick. Now it kicks on when I am expecting it to
now I also want to see if my SVS 16 also wakes up with the settings I put, with the low sound

How did you put the calibrations?

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post #3740 of 3934 Old 09-30-2017, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Luis Amorim View Post
now I also want to see if my SVS 16 also wakes up with the settings I put, with the low sound

How did you put the calibrations?
AVR trim from -4.5 to -2.5 Sub volume from -9 to -11.

I'm probably going to redo everything because I want to experiment with delay so will be adding distance to sub and changing some items in ARC, but now that I know that is what was causing it I'm good now.
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post #3741 of 3934 Old 10-01-2017, 10:16 AM
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Hi Hop,

Thank you for your thoughtful and insightful post. You and I frequently seem to think alike. I also find myself taking less pleasure in this aspect of the hobby, when there is so much conflict and negativity on some of the threads. FWIW, I made up my mind some time back to do what I could to try to offset some of the negativity on the threads that I regularly visit.

At times I will use euphemisms, such as "I don't understand..." to introduce something that I want to say, because I am not trying to scold other people as much as I am trying to persuade them to see things from a slightly different perspective. I am not always sure how well it works, but since I am trying to damp down conflicts and negativity, rather than to ignite them, it's the best method I can think of.

I agree with you that most of the passionate defense of our preferred products is ego-driven. And, I don't really expect that kind of conflict and negativity to ever completely disappear, since our egos are so much a part of all of us. But, to the extent that you and I, and others, can remind and inspire each other to reach for more of the maturity that you mentioned, I think it is worth trying.

Regards,
Mike

In this forum, AVS, the S stands for science. It appears many of the participating members take that very seriously, as they are only able to see things in a manner consistent with what their charts and graphs report.

As an example, because we have a subwoofer discussion going on, the timbral differences between subwoofers and how that correlates to mains integration are especially difficult to measure. Indeed, extended frequency waterfall decays are the closest thing we have to predicting what a subwoofer will actually sound like, though even that is not as good of a tool as your own two ears.

When pointing this out, I'm typically met with "every subwoofer operating within the same distortion sounds the same...50hz is 50hz". The ugly part is that when they believe that, they also believe it is justified by their charts and graphs, thereby making their position absolutely irrefutable and giving them the scientific high ground to dole their negativity from. If someone disagrees based on his enjoyment of his own product, doesn't matter, he's still wrong.

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WAF is currently at DEFCON ORANGE

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post #3742 of 3934 Old 10-02-2017, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

Two PB13's could be very nice. As you consider your options, remember that you can turn the subs 90 degrees to make them fit better in tight spaces. I have PB16's with a nearfield (2') PB13 and they play very well together. I also find that most of us adjust very quickly to the size of the large subwoofers, particularly if they have good proportions and a nice finish, as the big SVS subs do.

There are a number of bass enthusiasts who deliberately put subwoofers right up against their chairs or sofas, with the drivers and ports firing directly into their backs. That greatly increases the tactile effects. But, others turn subs to the side to make them fit. If a PB13 (or a PB16, for that matter) is a tight fit in the space behind your couch, turning the sub sideways wouldn't affect what you hear at all, and you would still get increased tactile energy from the close proximity.

Regards,
Mike
Agree with Mike. On a similar note, I am not sure if using a SW-12 together with a PC-13 (or two) is optimal due to the differences in spec and design (ported vs sealed), LF extension, etc etc. It is possible that it will work OK but only after some experimentation. I would check how the combined vs individual output looks like, using REW or similar software. I would not be surprised if you get a better result (output + low end extension) with only the PC-13 alone (or even better: 2x PC-13), without the SW-12. At least this is my experience from trying to combine a Velodyne SP-1200 with two PC-13.

Currently I have two PB-16 as my front subwoofers and two PC-13 as back subwoofers in approximately equal distance from the MLP. Running all subs in "extended mode". Even that setup requires quite a bit of experimenting with phase and volume before it will sound "optimal".. After measuring each sub individually (with REW), then in pairs and then in 2xpairs, and setting gain and delay for each pair in an attempt to optimise LF extension and minimise cancellations (using MiniDsp DDRC-88BM), I finally ran a Dirac calibration on the combined output for all 4 subs (one Dirac channel but on two separate output channels with different gain/delay). Now this sounds quite fantastic!

However, now I have just ordered a Lyngdorf MP-50 (http://lyngdorf.com/mp-50/), which supports very sophisticated bass management in 5 channels! (front L Sub, front R Sub, rear L sub, rear R sub, + LFE). This will be much simpler (less boxes, less cables, less trial and error) and much more flexible/powerful than the MiniDsp in my setup. With that flexibility, combined with Room Perfect, I hope to experience something exceptional below 100Hz (and above 100Hz:-)

cheers,
Erik
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post #3743 of 3934 Old 10-02-2017, 08:18 AM
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Please let us know how you get on with configuring the Lyngdorf, and obviously back it up with some nice REW graphs!!!
That's a pretty expensive bit of kit you're getting, hope it takes you to Bass nirvana!
Regards, Mike.
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post #3744 of 3934 Old 10-02-2017, 03:22 PM
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I just did a measure of my dual pb16 gain with REW and UMIK and found that there's a 2-3db difference between them even though they're at the same level on the display. They are chained by XLR cables and the one at the end is 2-3 dB lower than the first. Anyone else experience the same?

I measured by placing the mic dead center of the cones 3" away. Is the signal strength perhaps lower coming out of the first sub? Should I rather use a splitter from my DDRC-88?(Dirac) Or maybe I should just don't care and carry on....

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post #3745 of 3934 Old 10-02-2017, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duffus2 View Post
I just did a measure of my dual pb16 gain with REW and UMIK and found that there's a 2-3db difference between them even though they're at the same level on the display. They are chained by XLR cables and the one at the end is 2-3 dB lower than the first. Anyone else experience the same?

I measured by placing the mic dead center of the cones 3" away. Is the signal strength perhaps lower coming out of the first sub? Should I rather use a splitter from my DDRC-88?(Dirac) Or maybe I should just don't care and carry on....

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
Hi,

I would probably not care and just carry on. But, if you really want to measure their relative SPL, you should do it at your MLP. When you measure so close to the subwoofer, you take the room completely out of the equation. But, you presumably calibrated and EQed the subs with the room in the equation. Boundary gain, or different room modes, could cause one sub to produce more (or less) SPL than the other one.

This really isn't something that I would worry about much, even if there is a slight difference in SPL at the MLP. But, measuring at the subwoofer would not be inherently valid with respect to what is actually happening with the room in play.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #3746 of 3934 Old 10-02-2017, 11:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

I would probably not care and just carry on. But, if you really want to measure their relative SPL, you should do it at your MLP. When you measure so close to the subwoofer, you take the room completely out of the equation. But, you presumably calibrated and EQed the subs with the room in the equation. Boundary gain, or different room modes, could cause one sub to produce more (or less) SPL than the other one.

This really isn't something that I would worry about much, even if there is a slight difference in SPL at the MLP. But, measuring at the subwoofer would not be inherently valid with respect to what is actually happening with the room in play.

Regards,
Mike
My fake OCD is fighting with itself right now... Knowing that one sub is lower than the other or seeing that one sub says "-15" while the other says "-17"
What I was actually 'concerned' with was that one of the subs might reach it's max output sooner than the other one and I might end up hurting it. But then again, I never really do play that loud
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post #3747 of 3934 Old 10-03-2017, 06:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duffus2 View Post
I just did a measure of my dual pb16 gain with REW and UMIK and found that there's a 2-3db difference between them even though they're at the same level on the display. They are chained by XLR cables and the one at the end is 2-3 dB lower than the first. Anyone else experience the same?

I measured by placing the mic dead center of the cones 3" away. Is the signal strength perhaps lower coming out of the first sub? Should I rather use a splitter from my DDRC-88?(Dirac) Or maybe I should just don't care and carry on....

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalk
This brings up Level Matching vs. Gain Matching. Theoretically speaking, two of the same subs with the same amps should be able to be gained matched just by using the same setting. But theory and practice are not always the same thing.

I've added a post by Craig John regarding gain matching from a thread discussing gain matching and level matching from seven years ago. It's really informative.
http://https://www.avsforum.com/forum...-matching.html


Quote:
I am a proponent of gain-matching. I have 3 Submersives, asymmetrically placed around my room. I want them all to drive the room with same energy, no matter what the relative SPL's are at any one listening position. This ensures they all have the same headroom, and they are all contributing equally to the sound. I don't hear any directionality from any of the subs anywhere in the room, even if I stand or sit very close to one of them.

To gain-match identical subs, the most rigorous method is to move each sub to the middle of the room, place a mic very close to the driver, and measure the SPL. Then move each of the other subs to the exact same position with the mic exactly the same distance away, and set the level to the same SPL as the first one. I place tape on the floor around the first sub, so I can ensure the subsequent subs are located in the exact same place. I don't move the mic between measurements. This works for identical subs, and the level knobs should be at the exact same point, assuming the amps are consistent from unit to unit. It also works for different subs, but then you should expect different settings on the amps.

Mark Seaton was the one who suggested this method to me, and if it's good enough for him, it's good enough for me.

Craig

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post #3748 of 3934 Old 10-03-2017, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
Hi,

Two PB13's could be very nice. As you consider your options, remember that you can turn the subs 90 degrees to make them fit better in tight spaces. I have PB16's with a nearfield (2') PB13 and they play very well together. I also find that most of us adjust very quickly to the size of the large subwoofers, particularly if they have good proportions and a nice finish, as the big SVS subs do.

There are a number of bass enthusiasts who deliberately put subwoofers right up against their chairs or sofas, with the drivers and ports firing directly into their backs. That greatly increases the tactile effects. But, others turn subs to the side to make them fit. If a PB13 (or a PB16, for that matter) is a tight fit in the space behind your couch, turning the sub sideways wouldn't affect what you hear at all, and you would still get increased tactile energy from the close proximity.

Regards,
Mike
I may start with one and get a second at a later date. Even getting two PB13s is still a nearly $4K exercise. So getting a PB16 first and then another one later may end up being better for budget.
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post #3749 of 3934 Old 10-03-2017, 06:13 PM
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I see Mere Bulles moved from downtown. Fabulous place!

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post #3750 of 3934 Old 10-05-2017, 05:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Hopinater View Post
This brings up Level Matching vs. Gain Matching. Theoretically speaking, two of the same subs with the same amps should be able to be gained matched just by using the same setting. But theory and practice are not always the same thing.

I've added a post by Craig John regarding gain matching from a thread discussing gain matching and level matching from seven years ago. It's really informative.
http://https://www.avsforum.com/forum...-matching.html
Thanks for the link. I might just give it a try, but moving these beasts around is quite the chore.
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