SVS Unleashes 16-Ultra Series Subwoofers Featuring 8" Voice Coil Drivers - Page 127 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3781 of 3934 Old 11-13-2017, 01:13 PM
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Sadly, none of those events are near San Francisco...

The accumulated filth of all their sex and murder will foam up about their waists and all the whores and politicians will look up and shout "Save us!"... and I'll whisper "no."
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post #3782 of 3934 Old 11-13-2017, 07:05 PM
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Originally Posted by duffus2 View Post
...what?
In your reply you wrote God Damnit. Still obvious what you meant. That is what I was referring to.

I’m curious to see how many likes I get...

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post #3783 of 3934 Old 11-13-2017, 07:06 PM
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Back to 4 KW subs.

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post #3784 of 3934 Old 11-13-2017, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by mmiles View Post
In your reply you wrote God Damnit. Still obvious what you meant. That is what I was referring to.

I’m curious to see how many likes I get...
Yeah.. I'm still at a loss. Did my two words offend you? If so, I'm sorry.

Yes, back to 4 KW subs

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post #3785 of 3934 Old 11-14-2017, 03:04 AM
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Increasing the power doesn't really help if nothing has been done to reduce chuffing on the PB.
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post #3786 of 3934 Old 11-14-2017, 03:41 PM
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I hope the top secret product is new monster 10 inch voice coil! It will change the subwoofer game forever! Nothing will ever match its greatness!!!

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post #3787 of 3934 Old 11-14-2017, 10:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Snowmanick View Post
So the current Ultra’s become the 4000 series. Hmmmm, and the Ultra name goes to? That also leaves room for a 3000 series, which would be a logical replacement for the Plus series.
I ordered a SB-13 ultra a few days ago - as we Australiana don't have the same 45 day risk free trial as in the US, do you think it's safe to assume I'll be able to source a similar sub in the new range when I'm ready to go dual?

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post #3788 of 3934 Old 11-14-2017, 11:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Crustnut View Post
I ordered a SB-13 ultra a few days ago - as we Australiana don't have the same 45 day risk free trial as in the US, do you think it's safe to assume I'll be able to source a similar sub in the new range when I'm ready to go dual?

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Probably. Although the exact model number may be different, if you are looking sometime in a reasonable timeframe I’d wager you could get a matching unit or a unit close enough to make no difference.
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post #3789 of 3934 Old 11-14-2017, 11:38 PM
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Where does SVS build these? Are they made in Ohio or China? Just curious.

I'm considering getting a SB16 or two.
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post #3790 of 3934 Old 11-15-2017, 04:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioQuestions View Post
Where does SVS build these? Are they made in Ohio or China? Just curious.



I'm considering getting a SB16 or two.


Made in China. Final inspection and testing in Ohio. Does it matter? Not really. How much stuff in your life isn’t made in China?


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post #3791 of 3934 Old 11-15-2017, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by jbrazda View Post
Made in China. Final inspection and testing in Ohio. Does it matter? Not really. How much stuff in your life isn’t made in China?


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No need to get overly touchy, I think he was just asking. I’m sure your svs sub still sounds good


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post #3792 of 3934 Old 11-15-2017, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by David Charles View Post
No need to get overly touchy, I think he was just asking. I’m sure your svs sub still sounds good


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Uhhh, it does. Which is why I said it doesn’t matter that it’s made in China.


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post #3793 of 3934 Old 11-15-2017, 06:22 AM
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Everything else being equal, if they do in fact go to 4,000 watt amps, what impact would that have on both price & performance? Would you guys anticipate a price increase?

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post #3794 of 3934 Old 11-17-2017, 01:44 PM
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Anyone elses display timeout not functioning? Neither of my subs display times out.

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post #3795 of 3934 Old 11-17-2017, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duffus2 View Post
Anyone elses display timeout not functioning? Neither of my subs display times out.


It’s a setting. Don’t remember which one, but if you look around you can find it.


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post #3796 of 3934 Old 11-17-2017, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by B T C View Post
Everything else being equal, if they do in fact go to 4,000 watt amps, what impact would that have on both price & performance? Would you guys anticipate a price increase?
I like the way you are thinking, but I don't think there is even a slim chance of a 4000 watt amp. I would love to see an 18" version with a slightly larger cabinet to accommodate the larger driver and larger ports, and with a 2500 or so watt amplifier. That might be a worthy competitor for the JTR Cap 2400 or the Rythmik FV25.

But, without the larger driver and port diameter, it's hard to see why SVS would even try to increase the amplifier power that much. I think that the current 16 Ultra series could still have benefited from a little more amp power---perhaps 2000 or 2500 watts (as the subs appear to be amp-limited rather than excursion-limited) but more than that wouldn't seem to me to be helpful. There's about 2 cents worth.

Unfortunately, right now, I think that we are just looking at a renaming of the 16 Ultra line, along with the introduction of a cylinder (PC) version in this series.

Regards,
Mike
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post #3797 of 3934 Old 11-17-2017, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
I like the way you are thinking, but I don't think there is even a slim chance of a 4000 watt amp. I would love to see an 18" version with a slightly larger cabinet to accommodate the larger driver and larger ports, and with a 2500 or so watt amplifier. That might be a worthy competitor for the JTR Cap 2400 or the Rythmik FV25.

But, without the larger driver and port diameter, it's hard to see why SVS would even try to increase the amplifier power that much. I think that the current 16 Ultra series could still have benefited from a little more amp power---perhaps 2000 or 2500 watts (as the subs appear to be amp-limited rather than excursion-limited) but more than that wouldn't seem to me to be helpful. There's about 2 cents worth.

Unfortunately, right now, I think that we are just looking at a renaming of the 16 Ultra line, along with the introduction of a cylinder (PC) version in this series.

Regards,
Mike


But I’m trying to figure out why they are saying it will “shake the audio world to its foundation” if it’s just a simple renaming?


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post #3798 of 3934 Old 11-17-2017, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbrazda View Post
But I’m trying to figure out why they are saying it will “shake the audio world to its foundation” if it’s just a simple renaming?
It's similar to calling it PB16-Ultra when in fact it is PB15.2470001-Ultra...

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post #3799 of 3934 Old 11-17-2017, 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrazda View Post
But I’m trying to figure out why they are saying it will “shake the audio world to its foundation” if it’s just a simple renaming?

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Who knows why marketing departments in any industry say the things they do? That sort of hyperbole seems particularly at home in the audio industry. Perhaps it's related to the release of a big cylinder sub. That may be a first from a commercial standpoint, if not from a DIY standpoint.

If you are going to say something like that, though, you had better have some meat in the sandwich. So, we'll see. The release of the Cap 4000 ULF, or of the S7201, or Funk's new 24" sub, would probably be better candidates for that kind of language.
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post #3800 of 3934 Old 11-17-2017, 08:49 PM
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Combining ported and sealed enclosure subwoofers

I am looking for some advice about how to best incorporate a JBL 18 inch subwoofer driver in an 8 cu ft ported sub with two SB 16 ultras to gain chest compressing punch. I have the two SVS 16 ultras in the front just behind my right and left front speakers(JBL 4343 homebuilts) outboard of my screen. The single JBL 18 inch subwoofer is roughly centered in the rear of the room between two homebuilt JBL L-300 speakers. The sub is ported with a box tune of 26 cps with about 4 dB boost at about 25 cps copied after the JBL 460 subwoofer built in the 1980's. I am tempted to run the 4 big JBLs full range to take advantage of the front and rearr 15 inch drivers and 27 cps box tunes just adding in the big 18 inch sub at the low end to help out.
My goal is to gain some of the "chest punch" at the 40 to 80 cps range from the JBL while the main SVS ultras provide the strong sub 30 cps frequency range. I have the JBL on a bridged Crown XTi 1002 amplifier does provide a bandpass function and some control of parametric eq and cone control below 25 cps.

Any recommendations on the best way to incorporate the JBL? I am just looking to add "punch" to the upper bass range. I have a Y connector sending the "subwoofer out" line level from my Anthem MRX 1120 to one front SVS sub and to the rear JBL sub. The second output (really the same as the first but a duplicate jack on the Anthem) feeds the second SVS. The room is about 27 ft long with seating (just a couch) about 15 ft from the front subs and projector screen and 8 ft from the front of the big JBL sub and two rear JBL surrounds behind the couch and against the rear wall. Front right and left as well as rear right and left speakers are ported and capable of pretty decent response well over 110 dB down slightly below 30 cps with their box tunes of 27 cps. Side surrounds are JBL 12 inch midbass drivers in 4 cu ft ported enclosures good just below 50 cps to about 40 cps. All 7 floor level speakers use the identical JBL midrange compression drivers for decent balance of voicing.

I do have a 6 foot archway beside the seating to a dining room and kitchen raising the total volume of the space to about 4800 cubic ft. Kind of tough to get a lot of compression with that volume without some very large ported drivers but maybe one 18 inch JBL could help. .

Is it best to just follow the Anthem room correction (ARC) with an 80 cps crossover to the subs? With a Radioshack sound level meter I reach in the area of 115 dB with significant floor shake movement at the seating area with loud bass events on blu ray. Just no "chest slap" pressurization.

Bill Shenefelt; JBL 4343 monitors on Audire and Crown 1502 amps. 2 SVS 16 SB subs. 8 cu ft ported enclosure with 18 inch jbl driver on a Crown 1002 XTi amp (below 30 cps cut via eq), 4 Klipsch in-ceiling atmos. Anthem MRX 1120 receiver. Accuphase C-200, PS P600, Sony 4k projector and tv, SOTA Saphire turntable and Oppo 205 disk player .
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post #3801 of 3934 Old 11-17-2017, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Shenefelt View Post
I am looking for some advice about how to best incorporate a JBL 18 inch subwoofer driver in an 8 cu ft ported sub with two SB 16 ultras to gain chest compressing punch. I have the two SVS 16 ultras in the front just behind my right and left front speakers(JBL 4343 homebuilts) outboard of my screen. The single JBL 18 inch subwoofer is roughly centered in the rear of the room between two homebuilt JBL L-300 speakers. The sub is ported with a box tune of 26 cps with about 4 dB boost at about 25 cps copied after the JBL 460 subwoofer built in the 1980's. I am tempted to run the 4 big JBLs full range to take advantage of the front and rearr 15 inch drivers and 27 cps box tunes just adding in the big 18 inch sub at the low end to help out.
My goal is to gain some of the "chest punch" at the 40 to 80 cps range from the JBL while the main SVS ultras provide the strong sub 30 cps frequency range. I have the JBL on a bridged Crown XTi 1002 amplifier does provide a bandpass function and some control of parametric eq and cone control below 25 cps.

Any recommendations on the best way to incorporate the JBL? I am just looking to add "punch" to the upper bass range. I have a Y connector sending the "subwoofer out" line level from my Anthem MRX 1120 to one front SVS sub and to the rear JBL sub. The second output (really the same as the first but a duplicate jack on the Anthem) feeds the second SVS. The room is about 27 ft long with seating (just a couch) about 15 ft from the front subs and projector screen and 8 ft from the front of the big JBL sub and two rear JBL surrounds behind the couch and against the rear wall. Front right and left as well as rear right and left speakers are ported and capable of pretty decent response well over 110 dB down slightly below 30 cps with their box tunes of 27 cps. Side surrounds are JBL 12 inch midbass drivers in 4 cu ft ported enclosures good just below 50 cps to about 40 cps. All 7 floor level speakers use the identical JBL midrange compression drivers for decent balance of voicing.

I do have a 6 foot archway beside the seating to a dining room and kitchen raising the total volume of the space to about 4800 cubic ft. Kind of tough to get a lot of compression with that volume without some very large ported drivers but maybe one 18 inch JBL could help. .

Is it best to just follow the Anthem room correction (ARC) with an 80 cps crossover to the subs? With a Radioshack sound level meter I reach in the area of 115 dB with significant floor shake movement at the seating area with loud bass events on blu ray. Just no "chest slap" pressurization.
Hi,

I have a couple of preliminary thoughts and perhaps someone else can add some others. First, I would not run the front speakers as full-range. Without bass management, I don't believe you will be able to take full advantage of your subs. And, if your Anthem has a double-bass feature, where the front speakers and the subs play the same frequencies, that is likely to be a mess. What I might do, though, is to use the tone control to increase the bass in the front speakers with a 60Hz or 80Hz crossover. That will increase your mid-bass.

If I really wanted to get more chest punch, which is typically in the 50 to 100Hz range, I would probably buy a Behringer B1200D and place it nearfield behind my listening position. The closer the better. Ported subs generate much more tactile energy near their tuning points, and the 1200 has a tuning point of about 60Hz. That will be by far the best way to add chest punch to your system.

I am not very familiar with ARC, so I'm not sure whether you will do better to try to EQ everything together, or just EQ the SB16's; or the 16's and the JBL; and then add the 1200 in after the calibration. If you use a Y-Connector, ARC will never know that you added it and it won't interfere with your EQ. Both Audyssey and Dirac work that way. I would probably use one sub out for the two 16's in front, and the other sub out for the JBL and the Behringer in the rear. That will help with respect to setting distances. The Behringer is small enough that it can fit on top of the JBL if you do end up using all four subs.

Anytime you mix different subs (and especially different types of subs) like that, the results are unpredictable. So, no guarantees with respect to frequency response, but the 1200 will be a good way to get more chest punch, and it's relatively inexpensive. I hope this helps!

Regards,
Mike

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post #3802 of 3934 Old 11-17-2017, 10:16 PM
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It’s a setting. Don’t remember which one, but if you look around you can find it.


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Yep, and if I activate it, it doesn't work..


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post #3803 of 3934 Old 11-18-2017, 07:07 PM
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Yep, and if I activate it, it doesn't work..

So finally after waiting for weeks on my order for a second SB16 which i received about a week ago i didn't have the opportunity to really test it out until today, unfortunately it seems there is something wrong with it.

I first noticed that the output was way lower then my other SB16 and felt that it didn't go as low, however the main problem is when i increase the volume the sub will turn off an on again during a demanding part in a movie.

Waiting on a reply from the store i bought it from, they don't have the sb16 piano gloss in stock anymore so a replacement could take weeks again. I suspect that its a faulty amp and tolled them that if its faster to just sent me a replacement amp that will be fine.

So what do you guys think, is it a faulty amp? Is there something else i can do or check what the problem could be?
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post #3804 of 3934 Old 11-18-2017, 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by B T C View Post
Everything else being equal, if they do in fact go to 4,000 watt amps, what impact would that have on both price & performance? Would you guys anticipate a price increase?
Every doubling of power equates to a +3db increase in performance. So 3.5 db gain roughly. However the cab and ports are already too small for the current driver demands. SVS seems to want to use smaller cones and more excursion...I agree with Mike Thomas that SVS needs to move up to a 18" driver with more internal volume and larger ports.
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post #3805 of 3934 Old 11-18-2017, 09:31 PM
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SVS Unleashes 16-Ultra Series Subwoofers Featuring 8" Voice Coil Drivers

Quote:
Originally Posted by duffus2 View Post
Yep, and if I activate it, it doesn't work..



That’s because the display needs to be set to off.




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Originally Posted by B T C View Post
Everything else being equal, if they do in fact go to 4,000 watt amps, what impact would that have on both price & performance? Would you guys anticipate a price increase?
SVS would be better off keeping the price the same and offering more...Their pricing beyond the 2000 series is a bit off....

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post #3807 of 3934 Old 11-18-2017, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by jbrazda View Post
That’s because the display needs to be set to off.




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That just turns the display off with no lighting up whatsoever. My right sub has a display that never turns off. Both subs, same settings. It is a bug that some subs have and some don't. There is nothing you can do to get it to turn off after a certain amount of time. Sorry to tell you this, but hope this helps.

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post #3808 of 3934 Old 11-18-2017, 10:05 PM
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Originally Posted by muscles View Post
That just turns the display off with no lighting up whatsoever. My right sub has a display that never turns off. Both subs, same settings. It is a bug that some subs have and some don't. There is nothing you can do to get it to turn off after a certain amount of time. Sorry to tell you this, but hope this helps.


No, when it is set to off, it will remain off, until you change a setting with the app, remote, or button on the sub, then it will light up, but turn back off after the time you have set.


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post #3809 of 3934 Old 11-19-2017, 07:57 AM
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If the Subwoofer Standby is set to Auto, it should time-out within ~20 min. This will occur regardless of that the Display is set to - but it's easier to determine if the amp dropped into standby if the display is set to Volume or Logo.

If the amp doesn't drop into standby when set to Auto, contact Customer Service at [email protected] and we'll take care of you.
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post #3810 of 3934 Old 11-19-2017, 10:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Ed Mullen View Post
If the Subwoofer Standby is set to Auto, it should time-out within ~20 min. This will occur regardless of that the Display is set to - but it's easier to determine if the amp dropped into standby if the display is set to Volume or Logo.

If the amp doesn't drop into standby when set to Auto, contact Customer Service at [email protected] and we'll take care of you.
My 'problem' is that the displays don't time out after turning on. I might be misunderstanding what it's supposed to do though? If the display is set to default "volume" and I set the timeout it doesn't have any effect. I was hoping it would be possible to have the displays turn on when the subs detect a signal, and then automatically turn off the display after the set amount of time.

Might just be that they will do this if they are set to off though? I will give it try when I get home.

Edit: Disregard this, setting the displays to "off" and using the timeout works exactly the way I wanted it to.

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