SVS Unleashes 16-Ultra Series Subwoofers Featuring 8" Voice Coil Drivers - Page 130 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #3871 of 3932 Old 02-01-2018, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Thebarnman View Post
I've been thinking of getting two of those PB-16s, and this issue of chuffing has me a bit worried. Has it been a issue lately? Or was that it only an issue with some of the early ones when they first started coming off the assembly line?
You could get dual SB16's like what i did, and don't have to worry about chuffing.

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post #3872 of 3932 Old 02-01-2018, 01:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Balbolito View Post
You could get dual SB16's like what i did, and don't have to worry about chuffing.


Are you saying you bought them without worrying about it; even though it chuffs now and then?


Another words; your saying you don't let it bother you?

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post #3873 of 3932 Old 02-01-2018, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Thebarnman View Post
Are you saying you bought them without worrying about it; even though it chuffs now and then?


Another words; your saying you don't let it bother you?
i am more of a sealed guy so got the SB16's. not the ported PB version.

you could always increase the subs a few dbs if you need to and i just like the smaller cabinet size, and most rooms it would be a bit difficult to accommodate two PB16's.

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post #3874 of 3932 Old 02-01-2018, 02:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Balbolito View Post
i am more of a sealed guy so got the SB16's. not the ported PB version.

you could always increase the subs a few dbs if you need to and i just like the smaller cabinet size, and most rooms it would be a bit difficult to accommodate two PB16's.

Ah yes sorry...I missed the S of the SB16 part of that! Actually I was just thinking of putting the two PB16s in front of my system since there's plenty of room between the front of my A/V system, and the area where I sit. I hardly walk between that area anyway. The reason why I'm thinking of the PBs instead of the SBs; is my floor is a cement slab with carpet (and padding) over it.


I would actually like to place them behind the A/V system, but that would take too much work to move all that. I might possibly do that later when I have the time (and more importantly) the help to do that!

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post #3875 of 3932 Old 02-01-2018, 02:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Thebarnman View Post
Ah yes sorry...I missed the S of the SB16 part of that! Actually I was just thinking of putting the two PB16s in front of my system since there's plenty of room between the front of my A/V system, and the area where I sit. I hardly walk between that area anyway. The reason why I'm thinking of the PBs instead of the SBs; is my floor is a cement slab with carpet (and padding) over it.


I would actually like to place them behind the A/V system, but that would take too much work to move all that. I might possibly do that later when I have the time (and more importantly) the help to do that!
Sounds good, am sure you won't be disappointed with either of them. Also to move the PB16 i would say you would need 3 people to move around and adjust comfortably. 2 would be the minimum.

My room is all cement too with carpet covering the floor and 4 walls also have 3 rugs to cover most of the floor above the carpet. bass traps and acoustic panels installed also. both subs have the SVS rubber feet. placed both at 1/4 front mid-wall.

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post #3876 of 3932 Old 02-01-2018, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Thebarnman View Post
I've been thinking of getting two of those PB-16s, and this issue of chuffing has me a bit worried. Has it been a issue lately? Or was that it only an issue with some of the early ones when they first started coming off the assembly line?
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Originally Posted by duffus2 View Post
All ported subs will chuff if they are pushed hard.

My pb16s also chuff at the eot scene (I think most ported subs will chuff at this scene at loud volumes) and although it had me very worried when I first experienced it, it has only occured once since then and that was at -2MV (0 calibrated to ref) somewhere in the movie "Insurgent". I also run a 5db "house curve" from 50hz down to 15hz.

Unless you're going to be playing that particular scene all day, imho you need not worry at all
Owners who experience chuffing for their ported subs are pushing to the extremes. It's the equivalent of driving 120mph and detecting a rattle somewhere. How often, if ever, do most people drive their cars at that speed? I would have to agree with @duffus2 in that it is a non issue 99% of the time.
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Last edited by gene4ht; 02-01-2018 at 07:18 AM. Reason: typo
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post #3877 of 3932 Old 02-02-2018, 06:18 PM
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Owners who experience chuffing for their ported subs are pushing to the extremes. It's the equivalent of driving 120mph and detecting a rattle somewhere. How often, if ever, do most people drive their cars at that speed? I would have to agree with @duffus2 in that it is a non issue 99% of the time.
Well, pushing to the extreme is a matter of opinion.

I calibrate my subs for reference level (75 dB) and play my movies at reference level whenever possible as that's what the sound mixers intended.

Even theaters too often run films at low levels, so really at home is one of the few places other than studio screening rooms and chains that actually care like ArcLight where you can hear a movie presented properly.

So it's not like detecting a rattle at 120 MPH, but more like when at the speed limit of 75 MPH prevalent in many western states.

On the other hand, if you have a rattle at 120 MPH and live near an Autobahn in Germany, you have every right to believe that's not "pushing" your vehicle at all.

My personal experience is that I heard it while watching War of the Worlds and it caused me to seek out program content that could exacerbate it, which EoT obviously does. I had to turn War of the Worlds down to -8 dB before it wouldn't do it at all, and for me that was just too much to ask of a potential $2000 purchase since for me subs are not for music but explicitly as movie LFE subs.
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post #3878 of 3932 Old 02-02-2018, 11:23 PM
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If there are two; are they both driven at a lower level to get the same effect as if there was only one?

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post #3879 of 3932 Old 02-03-2018, 02:36 AM
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Originally Posted by duffus2 View Post
All ported subs will chuff if they are pushed hard.

My pb16s also chuff at the eot scene (I think most ported subs will chuff at this scene at loud volumes) and although it had me very worried when I first experienced it, it has only occured once since then and that was at -2MV (0 calibrated to ref) somewhere in the movie "Insurgent". I also run a 5db "house curve" from 50hz down to 15hz.

Unless you're going to be playing that particular scene all day, imho you need not worry at all


Yet both my PB13s do not chuff no matter how much and hard I push them but my PB16s surely do like to chuff away... I still think that the ports simply are too short or small for the PB16s..


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post #3880 of 3932 Old 02-03-2018, 03:36 AM
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Yet both my PB13s do not chuff no matter how much and hard I push them but my PB16s surely do like to chuff away... I still think that the ports simply are too short or small for the PB16s..


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Do your pb13s play as loud as the pb16? The ports are too small, no doubt.

Still, the chuffing is not a problem for me at least.

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post #3881 of 3932 Old 02-03-2018, 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by duffus2 View Post
Do your pb13s play as loud as the pb16? The ports are too small, no doubt.

Still, the chuffing is not a problem for me at least.


I’m not complaining. I’ve been able to tune in all 4 and they play so hard it becomes uncomfortable at loud volumes. Mission accomplished!




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post #3882 of 3932 Old 02-03-2018, 07:52 AM
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Originally Posted by kucharsk View Post
Well, pushing to the extreme is a matter of opinion.

I calibrate my subs for reference level (75 dB) and play my movies at reference level whenever possible as that's what the sound mixers intended.

Even theaters too often run films at low levels, so really at home is one of the few places other than studio screening rooms and chains that actually care like ArcLight where you can hear a movie presented properly.

So it's not like detecting a rattle at 120 MPH, but more like when at the speed limit of 75 MPH prevalent in many western states.

On the other hand, if you have a rattle at 120 MPH and live near an Autobahn in Germany, you have every right to believe that's not "pushing" your vehicle at all.

My personal experience is that I heard it while watching War of the Worlds and it caused me to seek out program content that could exacerbate it, which EoT obviously does. I had to turn War of the Worlds down to -8 dB before it wouldn't do it at all, and for me that was just too much to ask of a potential $2000 purchase since for me subs are not for music but explicitly as movie LFE subs.
Perhaps the 120 mph analogy is not totally on point but the intent is. I'm also calibrated and level matched at 75 db, run 5-6 db hot, but usually listen between -10 and -20 MV. I've also listened to WotW, EoT, FotP, and all the other usual LFE suspects. I occasionally listen at -5 to reference but usually only for short periods or for demo purposes as it's uncomfortably loud for me...even in my 4800cf space. For owners or potential owners who have similar listening tastes, chuff should not be an issue. For enthusiasts like yourself, there are other options...perhaps multiple sealed units? In any case, I would be interested in your solution...please post.
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Last edited by gene4ht; 02-03-2018 at 11:41 AM. Reason: typo
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post #3883 of 3932 Old 02-03-2018, 01:40 PM
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Not really a "solution" per se, but I currently own a Velodyne DD-18 and was looking to replace it with the PB-16.

When I experienced the chuffing (and after the literal pain of having to get it back into its box, onto a handcart and onto a Home Depot rental truck alone so as to avoid a $100 pickup fee charged by my dealer), I decided there was no point in going from a sealed sub to a sealed sub.

So rather than demo the SB-16, I decided to stick with my Velodyne.
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post #3884 of 3932 Old 02-24-2018, 05:39 PM
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Hey Group:

I know there are several variable, but I wanted your opinion. Finally have my HT done, and about the set up my 7.1.4 Atmos set-up. Have a Denon 7200WA, and all SVS speaker set up (except for height speakers which are Golden Ear). My Speakers are as such:

Mains: SVS Ultra Towers
Center: SVS Ultra Center
Surrounds: SVS Prime Elevations
Rear Surrounds: SVS Ultra Surround (I know - truly should be regular surrounds, but it doesn't work with room config)
Heights: Golden Ear Invisa 650 (x4)

So....again I know there are variables....but what are your opinions for Cross-Over's? Meaning do I go full range on the Towers, 60HZ on the Center...etc... I have yet to run Audyssey, but I really value your opinion(s).

Thanks in advance!

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post #3885 of 3932 Old 02-24-2018, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by sathron View Post
Hey Group:

I know there are several variable, but I wanted your opinion. Finally have my HT done, and about the set up my 7.1.4 Atmos set-up. Have a Denon 7200WA, and all SVS speaker set up (except for height speakers which are Golden Ear). My Speakers are as such:

Mains: SVS Ultra Towers
Center: SVS Ultra Center
Surrounds: SVS Prime Elevations
Rear Surrounds: SVS Ultra Surround (I know - truly should be regular surrounds, but it doesn't work with room config)
Heights: Golden Ear Invisa 650 (x4)

So....again I know there are variables....but what are your opinions for Cross-Over's? Meaning do I go full range on the Towers, 60HZ on the Center...etc... I have yet to run Audyssey, but I really value your opinion(s).

Thanks in advance!
Well, if you have a 7.1.4 system the ".1" part of that indicates you have one subwoofer but I don't see it listed. If you have one, let your AVR's room correction procedure (Audyssey) set the crossover level, adjust manually later if it's not sounding right.

Be aware, Audyssey often sets speakers to large when they should all be set to small.

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post #3886 of 3932 Old 02-24-2018, 06:31 PM
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Well, if you have a 7.1.4 system the ".1" part of that indicates you have one subwoofer but I don't see it listed. If you have one, let your AVR's room correction procedure (Audyssey) set the crossover level, adjust manually later if it's not sounding right.

Be aware, Audyssey often sets speakers to large when they should all be set to small.


I apologize...not sure why I’ didn’t include the subwoofer! The .1 is an SVS SB16 Ultra. So in your opinion, even though my mains are the Ultra Towers, and the center is The Ultra Center, I should set all speakers to Small?
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post #3887 of 3932 Old 02-24-2018, 06:41 PM
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I apologize...not sure why I’ didn’t include the subwoofer! The .1 is an SVS SB16 Ultra. So in your opinion, even though my mains are the Ultra Towers, and the center is The Ultra Center, I should set all speakers to Small?


Yes let the AVR set the crossover and then you can raise it but not lower it form where the AVR sets it. You can experiment but when the ultra towers can’t match a sub.


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post #3888 of 3932 Old 02-24-2018, 06:44 PM
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I apologize...not sure why I’ didn’t include the subwoofer! The .1 is an SVS SB16 Ultra. So in your opinion, even though my mains are the Ultra Towers, and the center is The Ultra Center, I should set all speakers to Small?
Hi,

Yes, once Audyssey has run, you would definitely benefit by making sure that all of your speakers are set to Small. And, I would suggest that you begin with at least an 80Hz crossover. There are a lot of misconceptions about what is happening in the Audyssey calibration process and how crossovers are set during that process.

I recommend that you read the Guide, linked in my signature. That will explain what is happening during your Audyssey calibration and how to use the various Audyssey settings afterward. There is also a separate section on setting crossovers. Others can advise you to set all of your speakers to Small with an 80Hz crossover, as I just did, but I think you will be able to enjoy your HT system more if you understand how and why it works the way it does.

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Mike
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Hi,

Yes, once Audyssey has run, you would definitely benefit by making sure that all of your speakers are set to Small. And, I would suggest that you begin with at least an 80Hz crossover. There are a lot of misconceptions about what is happening in the Audyssey calibration process and how crossovers are set during that process.

I recommend that you read the Guide, linked in my signature. That will explain what is happening during your Audyssey calibration and how to use the various Audyssey settings afterward. There is also a separate section on setting crossovers. Others can advise you to set all of your speakers to Small with an 80Hz crossover, as I just did, but I think you will be able to enjoy your HT system more if you understand how and why it works the way it does.

Regards,
Mike


Thanks! I will definitely read through the guide! One more question Should the I set the sub to Main + LFE in the receiver? Or just LFE ?

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post #3890 of 3932 Old 02-24-2018, 08:07 PM
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Thanks! I will definitely read through the guide! One more question Should the I set the sub to Main + LFE in the receiver? Or just LFE ?
You are welcome! Definitely just LFE.
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* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #3891 of 3932 Old 02-26-2018, 07:55 PM
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You are welcome! Definitely just LFE.
I disagree. Once Audyssey has been run I would set the AVR/Receiver to Main + LFE. Why spend the money for large Main Speakers and not get the full use out of them? Setting them to small, you may as well just purchased small or bookshelf size speakers for your Mains. Furthermore, even if you set the Mains to Large before running Audyssey it will change them to Small if they do not play back what the setup is looking for. Experiment. Once the setup is finished, playback something 2 channel and listen with Main + LFE, then just with LFE. You can then decide which you like better and whether or not you hear a difference.

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post #3892 of 3932 Old 02-26-2018, 08:04 PM
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I disagree. Once Audyssey has been run I would set the AVR/Receiver to Main + LFE. Why spend the money for large Main Speakers and not get the full use out of them? Setting them to small, you may as well just purchased small or bookshelf size speakers for your Mains. Furthermore, even if you set the Mains to Large before running Audyssey it will change them to Small if they do not play back what the setup is looking for. Experiment. Once the setup is finished, playback something 2 channel and listen with Main + LFE, then just with LFE. You can then decide which you like better and whether or not you hear a difference.
You want it to be LFE so the subs can handle all the bass and let the towers free up headroom to play non LFE notes. Just because they are towers or able to play lower frequencies over bookshelfs does not give it a good reason to run bass with mains + LFE. Yes, it does seem like a waste of money and if you are on a budget it makes sense you only need bookshelfs with subs and not towers, but also depends on the speakers and if you plan on using it full range for 2.0 listening without a sub.

Take my speakers for example.....I have Klipsch RF280 mains and its crossed over at 80hz while my subs handle LFE only. Sure, I could use bookshelf RP160 that has horn and 6.5 inch midbass.....but even with my mains (dual 8 inch midbass) set as small I get more punch or presence or the midbass doesn't have to work as hard as smaller midbass would. This results in able to play louder without strain. While my mains can play down to 32hz, the sub does a much better job and lets the speaker do what its best at (midbass/mids and highs). Also having your mains and subs both play LFE signal will likely result in cancellations/nulls and much harder to integrate.

But if you like the sound of main + LFE, then more power to you.

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post #3893 of 3932 Old 02-26-2018, 11:41 PM
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While my mains can play down to 32hz, the sub does a much better job and lets the speaker do what its best at (midbass/mids and highs). Also having your mains and subs both play LFE signal will likely result in cancellations/nulls and much harder to integrate.
Agree. Let the subs handle all LF. Will likely result in more headroom and tighter bass overall. And just because you divide at, say, 80Hz does not mean that the mains are silent at 40Hz (only 12 dB down in my case). But make sure that the response around the crossover frequency is handled okay. IMHO, anyone who is serious about getting good sub+main integration should get a microphone and get familiar with REW, and measure, regardless of what room correction they might be using. It is not that difficult
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post #3894 of 3932 Old 02-27-2018, 04:50 AM
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I disagree. Once Audyssey has been run I would set the AVR/Receiver to Main + LFE. Why spend the money for large Main Speakers and not get the full use out of them? Setting them to small, you may as well just purchased small or bookshelf size speakers for your Mains. Furthermore, even if you set the Mains to Large before running Audyssey it will change them to Small if they do not play back what the setup is looking for. Experiment. Once the setup is finished, playback something 2 channel and listen with Main + LFE, then just with LFE. You can then decide which you like better and whether or not you hear a difference.
Hi,

In the case of the post you quoted, I gave the OP a brief answer, rather than writing out a detailed explanation on the thread. But, I certainly respect other points of view, and anyone who prefers to use LFE+Main is certainly welcome to do so. As you say, some experimentation may be helpful as long as it is informed experimentation.

I think, though, that a lot of people who may be reading along may not understand some of the reasons why LFE+Main is not generally recommended, even for situations where we have very capable full-range speakers. There is a good explanation for the reasons why it is typically advisable to set our speakers to Small, after an automated calibration, and why we wouldn't usually want to use LFE+Main, in the Setting Crossovers section of the subwoofer guide that I am linking. People may find the more detailed explanation helpful.

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/113-su...erences.html#C

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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

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post #3895 of 3932 Old 02-27-2018, 05:26 AM
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I disagree. Once Audyssey has been run I would set the AVR/Receiver to Main + LFE. Why spend the money for large Main Speakers and not get the full use out of them? Setting them to small, you may as well just purchased small or bookshelf size speakers for your Mains. Furthermore, even if you set the Mains to Large before running Audyssey it will change them to Small if they do not play back what the setup is looking for. Experiment. Once the setup is finished, playback something 2 channel and listen with Main + LFE, then just with LFE. You can then decide which you like better and whether or not you hear a difference.
I disagree. IMO It should be LFE. Subs are made to do one thing and one thing only... Powerful Bass! Let them do all the heavy lifting of playing demanding LFE (using their their external amps to do it). This will allow your system to have ample headroom to play all else.

EDIT: I'll add this thought as well. Another point to consider is cancellations. Proper placement is vital when setting up anything that will be playing bass. While multiple bass playing speakers is nice to have, it can also cause serious cancellation issues. For instance two subs in a room will can cancel one another out at certain frequencies if placed incorrectly (this will be dependent upon the room of course). Multiple subwoofers are great but they require a lot of effort to dial in to get a proper room response.

Now say you have a sub playing bass and your towers playing bass, you now have three speakers playing bass and they will all need to be placed correctly and time aligned to make sure they don't cancel one another out at certain frequencies. But since towers are very limited where can they go in a room proper placement will be an issue. Therefore IMO it makes more sense to go with the setting of LFE.

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post #3896 of 3932 Old 02-27-2018, 05:50 AM
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You want it to be LFE so the subs can handle all the bass and let the towers free up headroom to play non LFE notes. Just because they are towers or able to play lower frequencies over bookshelfs does not give it a good reason to run bass with mains + LFE. Yes, it does seem like a waste of money and if you are on a budget it makes sense you only need bookshelfs with subs and not towers, but also depends on the speakers and if you plan on using it full range for 2.0 listening without a sub.

Take my speakers for example.....I have Klipsch RF280 mains and its crossed over at 80hz while my subs handle LFE only. Sure, I could use bookshelf RP160 that has horn and 6.5 inch midbass.....but even with my mains (dual 8 inch midbass) set as small I get more punch or presence or the midbass doesn't have to work as hard as smaller midbass would. This results in able to play louder without strain. While my mains can play down to 32hz, the sub does a much better job and lets the speaker do what its best at (midbass/mids and highs). Also having your mains and subs both play LFE signal will likely result in cancellations/nulls and much harder to integrate.

But if you like the sound of main + LFE, then more power to you.
I agree with you 100%. While my system was evolving this last year, I went through several Klipsch speakers. The only ones that could handle the volume I occasionally listen to music at are the Rp-280f, specifically in the mid bass. Tower speakers don't just play lower, they play louder, at least with the Klipsch RP line, and I suspect that is true of most manufacturers. And, I have experimented a little with crossovers, and a/b ing with and without subwoofers. I am hardly a golden ear, but even I could tell my SVS subwoofers play cleaner than my towers.
I really like the concept of the PSA loudspeakers that trade off extension for sensitivity, and you really need a subwoofer with them. I'm surprised that more manufacturers don't design speakers like that.
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post #3897 of 3932 Old 02-27-2018, 06:39 AM
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I agree with you 100%. While my system was evolving this last year, I went through several Klipsch speakers. The only ones that could handle the volume I occasionally listen to music at are the Rp-280f, specifically in the mid bass. Tower speakers don't just play lower, they play louder, at least with the Klipsch RP line, and I suspect that is true of most manufacturers. And, I have experimented a little with crossovers, and a/b ing with and without subwoofers. I am hardly a golden ear, but even I could tell my SVS subwoofers play cleaner than my towers.
I really like the concept of the PSA loudspeakers that trade off extension for sensitivity, and you really need a subwoofer with them. I'm surprised that more manufacturers don't design speakers like that.
Makes a lot of sense to me too....especially with Tom's lifelong love of subs and his tenure with SVS!
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post #3898 of 3932 Old 02-27-2018, 09:58 AM
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I disagree. IMO It should be LFE. Subs are made to do one thing and one thing only... Powerful Bass! Let them do all the heavy lifting of playing demanding LFE (using their their external amps to do it). This will allow your system to have ample headroom to play all else.

EDIT: I'll add this thought as well. Another point to consider is cancellations. Proper placement is vital when setting up anything that will be playing bass. While multiple bass playing speakers is nice to have, it can also cause serious cancellation issues. For instance two subs in a room will can cancel one another out at certain frequencies if placed incorrectly (this will be dependent upon the room of course). Multiple subwoofers are great but they require a lot of effort to dial in to get a proper room response.

Now say you have a sub playing bass and your towers playing bass, you now have three speakers playing bass and they will all need to be placed correctly and time aligned to make sure they don't cancel one another out at certain frequencies. But since towers are very limited where can they go in a room proper placement will be an issue. Therefore IMO it makes more sense to go with the setting of LFE.
All good points. However, I too have been doing this a long time. Currently I run 3 Subs and very familiar with frequency cancellation. Yes it took a lot of time to place and align each so there's no cancellations taking place. Running LFE + Mains does not cause me to have a lack of headroom since I have more than enough power coming from my Pwr Amps. In a system with limited headroom I will agree with you. We all like different levels of Bass. A perfect example for me was listening to someone else's setup they felt they had nice Bass. I kept saying to myself where's the Bass? I like a deep strong Bass but not over powering the rest of the music or sound. I can sit you just about any where in my room and you cannot localize where the Bass is coming from. However, if I shut any of the Subs off you will notice a difference.

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post #3899 of 3932 Old 02-27-2018, 10:18 AM
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^^^

For others who may be considering trying LFE+Main, here is something from the Guide which I think is relevant to the discussion. Obviously, this is a YMMV issue.


"I decided to add another note to this section, since I have emphasized individual preference in the title of the Guide. People who are looking for bass clarity are more likely to find it when they use some system of room EQ. Turning off room EQ will generally introduce some muddiness to the sound, as bass frequencies randomly peak and cancel. That may create the impression that there is more bass, as described in the first section, because we will typically hear some frequencies much more loudly than we will hear others.

That same thing may happen when we engage LFE+Main. It may increase the apparent quantity of the bass in exchange for some quality, in the form of bass clarity. There is nothing wrong with experimenting to determine which setting we prefer. But I believe that it may be important to understand the potential trade-offs we are making, and that it may be important to listen objectively to our overall sound quality. AVR makers added the LFE+Main feature, over the objections of the creators of Audyssey, who believed that it was contradictory to the fundamental concept of room EQ, as a means to enhance bass clarity.

One of the distinctions that I might personally make would be between the use of our full-range speakers for some types of music, and their use for other listening material. As noted earlier in this section, some people may prefer to use just their full-range speakers for music that doesn't have a lot of low-bass content. In that case, simply setting the front speakers to Large would enable the listener to enjoy properly EQed bass played entirely by his front speakers.

But, as a general rule, if we need to have our subwoofer(s) playing in order to have sufficient low-bass to begin with, I believe that we are better off bass-managing our speakers, with a crossover. Then, if we ever want even more bass, we can just boost our subwoofer volume to get it. That way, we can still benefit from having properly EQed transducers and the improved bass clarity which should result from that."
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #3900 of 3932 Old 02-27-2018, 10:38 AM
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All good points. However, I too have been doing this a long time. Currently I run 3 Subs and very familiar with frequency cancellation. Yes it took a lot of time to place and align each so there's no cancellations taking place.
Sure! As you get more familiar with your speakers and room, and gain enough experience to avoid the typical pitfalls, I think your combo can work, and it probably does in your case! But it should not be the "startup config".
BTW, in my living room (not the main system), and after a bit of moving things around, I can divide the mains at 80 Hz but the subs at 40Hz, just because of a peak around 60Hz from my mains... the end result is pretty good without any room correction software. Funny thing is, I can change it around so that the mains are divided at 50Hz and the sub at 80Hz, adjust phase and level slightly on the sub, and then I get a mild cancellation between the subs and mains in the overlapping region that also works (although I prefer the first setup)
Point being, don't just dial in the processor defaults and leave it there... start simple (and in my view, that means letting the sub(s) do all the heavy LF) but you have to work a bit to get *all* the potential juice out of your system and room
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