SVS Unleashes 16-Ultra Series Subwoofers Featuring 8" Voice Coil Drivers - Page 50 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1471 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 04:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by januza View Post
Thats life in China... SVS is being sold and promoted as a high end brand which it also is..
Its like the car i drive.. Its around 45K USD in the USA but almost 100K USD in China.. all due to consumer tax, luxury tax and heavy mark up by Mercedes.

I might end up going for quads... but there is just something inside me pushing me towards the new product.. I have always wanted to get the new gadget and stuff... PB13 isn't new anymore.. Its a killer sub but that big boy of PB16 is so damn tempting.. ahaha

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I don't think you will get any disagreement here.

Edit: I decided to edit my post. If you are serious about overpaying to have the biggest and baddest, and also serious about having three, or even four subs, here is an idea. I currently have three PB16's distributed on opposing walls at 18', 18', and 12' from my MLP, in a 6000^3 room. And, I have a PB13 located nearfield--2' behind my MLP.

Although the PB16's have a significant advantage in SPL, the nearfield placement of the 13 makes up for that. And, although the 16's dig deeper than the 13, and have noticeably more ULF, compared to what I had with all 13's, the nearfield placement of the 13 gives me extra tactile response that also makes up for the difference. In short, due to placement, I'm really not losing anything at all, in my opinion, by combining the 13 with the three 16's. And, I am gaining advantages in additional bass envelopment and direct tactile response.

You could do something similar with a pair of PB16's, by locating them at a greater distance from your MLP, and running one or both of your 13's nearfield. You might still consider selling one, or flanking your MLP with two, or even mutually coupling them. I think that I gave you rational and objective advice in my original post, but since when has rationality really mattered when it comes to our toys?

If you really want to do this, something along the lines of what I described could be a very intense bass system.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

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post #1472 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by januza View Post
I might end up going for quads... but there is just something inside me pushing me towards the new product.. I have always wanted to get the new gadget and stuff... PB13 isn't new anymore.. Its a killer sub but that big boy of PB16 is so damn tempting.. ahaha
I and a lot of other people hear yea! That's why quite few of us have upgraded from the 13-Ultras to the 16-Ultras. You never want that feeling of "what if" - so if you have the cash, the 16-Ultras are pretty sweet. Everyone who has posted about upgrading to the 16U has not regretted it and appears to be quite happy, and so far Nobody has returned the 16-Ultras and kept their 13-Ultras.

If you decide to mix and match the PB13U and PB16U that's one of the reasons SVS kept the port tuning at the same frequency.

Let us know what you decide as you can't go wrong either way.
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SCG

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post #1473 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 05:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalGuy-99 View Post
I and a lot of other people hear yea! That's why quite few of us have upgraded from the 13-Ultras to the 16-Ultras. You never want that feeling of "what if" - so if you have the cash, the 16-Ultras are pretty sweet. Everyone who has posted about upgrading to the 16U has not regretted it and appears to be quite happy, and so far Nobody has returned the 16-Ultras and kept their 13-Ultras.

If you decide to mix and match the PB13U and PB16U that's one of the reasons SVS kept the port tuning at the same frequency.

Let us know what you decide as you can't go wrong either way.
FWIW, I am actually using the lower port tune on the PB16's, with a PB13, and that works too, as described in my previous post. Apparently we were thinking alike and at the same time.
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #1474 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by CCSchoch View Post
Did this step already with Darren, it does into Stand By fine. Display goes dark at 20 minute mark no problem.

As I am typing though, I just thought of something. Last night when I put the settings to your described settings, I never adjusted anything, I just set it to off and shut it down. So, maybe it's staying dark because once I set it to off I never adjusted anything???

So, tonight I'll turn on the sub to wake it up, adjust the volume, then shut it down so it goes into standby. Then I'll wake it up again to see if it displays anything.

Will report my findings back.
WORKED!!! In order to get display to light up, then time out....you have to set app settings as described, then do some sort of adjustment, like set volume up or down a dB, then power down sub for 20 mins to put in standby....coming out of standby it should then light up and the go dafk at desired time set in the settings.
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post #1475 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 06:18 PM
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3rd round of 16-Ultras now shipping 12/21/16

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Vodhanel View Post
bet they sell these things as fast as they can import them. I say well done svs.

Tom V.
Power Sound Audio
3rd round of 16-Ultras now shipping 12/21/16 depending on version and finishes... I guess Tom V was right they going to sell them as fast as they build and import them

https://www.svsound.com/pages/16-ultra-series

SCG

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post #1476 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by januza View Post
Thats life in China... SVS is being sold and promoted as a high end brand which it also is..
Its like the car i drive.. Its around 45K USD in the USA but almost 100K USD in China.. all due to consumer tax, luxury tax and heavy mark up by Mercedes.

I might end up going for quads... but there is just something inside me pushing me towards the new product.. I have always wanted to get the new gadget and stuff... PB13 isn't new anymore.. Its a killer sub but that big boy of PB16 is so damn tempting.. ahaha


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I was in the same boat as you. What I finally end up doing was keeping my dual pb13 and putting them in the rear of my room and getting dual pb16 for the front. My subs get here this weekend will let you know how the 16s Perform with the 13s
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post #1477 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 07:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by januza View Post
... but there is just something inside me pushing me towards the new product.. I have always wanted to get the new gadget and stuff... PB13 isn't new anymore.. Its a killer sub but that big boy of PB16 is so damn tempting.. ahaha
Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
I don't think you will get any disagreement here.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoCalGuy-99 View Post
I and a lot of other people hear yea! That's why quite few of us have upgraded from the 13-Ultras to the 16-Ultras. You never want that feeling of "what if" - so if you have the cash, the 16-Ultras are pretty sweet. Everyone who has posted about upgrading to the 16U has not regretted it and appears to be quite happy, and so far Nobody has returned the 16-Ultras and kept their 13-Ultras.
It appears the majority of us in this thread have very similar mindsets! Sooo...I don't believe you were going to get any dissenting opinions but rather overwhelming support for what your decision will ultimately be!! Win Win for consumers and SVS!
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post #1478 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by SoCalGuy-99 View Post
I guess Tom V was right they going to sell them as fast as they build and import them
Bought my first SVS sub (20-39 PC) from Tom back in the day! He was then and still is now a class act!
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post #1479 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 08:46 PM
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So a quick question regarding the dimming of lights whenever a bass note is played. I have another smaller 300 watt sub that dims the lights including on my receiver and I can't imagine what'll happen my SB-16 arrives. Be like a total flicker. I don't know if that will affect the sound quality, that I won't get as much authority from the new sub or what have you.

But we're renting our house and can't make any upgrades in the electric system of the house. Any ideas as to a quick fix or am I stuck with the dreaded bass dimming?

Thanks,

James
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post #1480 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 08:57 PM
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I recently moved and went from 2100 cubic feet to roughly 5400 cubic feet. Would one of these be enough to fill 5400 cubic feet? Also note that I have an open stairwell going to upstairs/rest of the house. See attached photo.

I am 95% movies/HDTV and 5% music. I like to "feel" the bass in my chest, chairs, etc.

Thoughts?
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post #1481 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sarantis View Post
So a quick question regarding the dimming of lights whenever a bass note is played. I have another smaller 300 watt sub that dims the lights including on my receiver and I can't imagine what'll happen my SB-16 arrives. Be like a total flicker. I don't know if that will affect the sound quality, that I won't get as much authority from the new sub or what have you.

But we're renting our house and can't make any upgrades in the electric system of the house. Any ideas as to a quick fix or am I stuck with the dreaded bass dimming?

Thanks,

James
From what I noticed when I had 2 SB13's and 2 SB16's connected on a single 15amp breaker the lights in my house did not dim. I suspect these SB16's only draw 2-3Amps max draw. I would see what is sharing the load on the breaker that you intend to connect these subs to and try to find an alternative breaker if possible. Sounds like you really need to call your landlord though and have an electrician come out and see what is wrong with your house wiring. In no way shape or form should a 300watt stereo be dimming the lights in your house! Even if the sub you have is powered by a class A amp (which I doubt), that would pull at max 2.5Amps which would still only be at 16% current capability of a 15Amp breaker.

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post #1482 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaF17 View Post
I recently moved and went from 2100 cubic feet to roughly 5400 cubic feet. Would one of these be enough to fill 5400 cubic feet? Also note that I have an open stairwell going to upstairs/rest of the house. See attached photo.

I am 95% movies/HDTV and 5% music. I like to "feel" the bass in my chest, chairs, etc.

Thoughts?
In that size room get the pb13s or pb16s. And duals if you can.
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post #1483 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 10:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruvolok View Post
From what I noticed when I had 2 SB13's and 2 SB16's connected on a single 15amp breaker the lights in my house did not dim. I suspect these SB16's only draw 2-3Amps max draw. I would see what is sharing the load on the breaker that you intend to connect these subs to and try to find an alternative breaker if possible. Sounds like you really need to call your landlord though and have an electrician come out and see what is wrong with your house wiring. In no way shape or form should a 300watt stereo be dimming the lights in your house! Even if the sub you have is powered by a class A amp (which I doubt), that would pull at max 2.5Amps which would still only be at 16% current capability of a 15Amp breaker.
Great explanation. I think everything is running through that one line including various components and 2 DefTech BP3000TLs with the 18 inch subs. I'll try some other outlets.
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post #1484 of 3934 Old 12-01-2016, 10:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mthomas47 View Post
I'm not being facetious when I say that, if your current SB13's are in optimal positions, then those same positions should be optimal for the new models. You might end up moving them a few inches one way or another, but I wouldn't expect their fundamental positioning to need to change at all.
Thanks! I thought the same as well, though I've heard that sometimes positions would change, especially if the replacement subs are from a different manufacturer. Differences in phase response and bandwidth between the different subs, me thinks, would cause this to happen.

Thanks again ...

- David
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post #1485 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 05:55 AM
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make sure the other outlets you try aren't on the same breaker. It's very common for multiple rooms to share the same breaker.
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post #1486 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 06:06 AM
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I wanted to post an update on my setup. I have been playing with the phase and polarity options in the SVS phone app and came to the best listening position for the SB16's. After moving them inside the mains (my original placement of the SB13's) and moving them outside of the mains I found the sweetspot for my room is placing the SB16's under my mains and setting the polarity to positive and phase to zero. This has also boosted the original bass delivery by a few decibals since they are in the corners (this has boosted the bass frequency), I went from having the SB16's at -20db on music playback to -24db and movie mode from -17db to -20db.
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post #1487 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 06:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruvolok View Post
From what I noticed when I had 2 SB13's and 2 SB16's connected on a single 15amp breaker the lights in my house did not dim. I suspect these SB16's only draw 2-3Amps max draw. I would see what is sharing the load on the breaker that you intend to connect these subs to and try to find an alternative breaker if possible. Sounds like you really need to call your landlord though and have an electrician come out and see what is wrong with your house wiring. In no way shape or form should a 300watt stereo be dimming the lights in your house! Even if the sub you have is powered by a class A amp (which I doubt), that would pull at max 2.5Amps which would still only be at 16% current capability of a 15Amp breaker.
Look at my signature! Everything is running 7.2 setup but only only drawing 4.7 Amp.....

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post #1488 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 07:07 AM
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Look at my signature! Everything is running 7.2 setup but only only drawing 4.7 Amp.....
Hello, that may be quasi-accurate for your idle or average load cases, but I promise they can pull much more than that. There's several factors that ought to be included such as your measuring equipment (do not use a power conditioner display as a real load measurement), the content being played, amp settings and gain structure, and remote loads sharing the same circuit breaker.

In my own testing at home, measuring at the panel with a bare circuit load and a Fluke MM on the breaker, nominal loads with average music and movie can pull anywhere from 3-6 amps. If I load the right content and play at loud volumes, like I do with parties and friends over, I have measured over 27 amps burst on a 20A breaker with non-SVS amps/subs. FWIW, I have tripped a 15A breaker multiple times with my gear load with dual SB13U up front.

If your finances can support it, anyone would be best off with a dedicated 20A home theater breaker installation and outlets to play it safe, reducing risk of damage to your electronics and home.

Travis
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post #1489 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 07:49 AM
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Thanks! I thought the same as well, though I've heard that sometimes positions would change, especially if the replacement subs are from a different manufacturer. Differences in phase response and bandwidth between the different subs, me thinks, would cause this to happen.

Thanks again ...

- David
Hi David,

You are very welcome! It's a perfectly reasonable question, but I agree with Bear that it would probably take a pretty significant change in subs to make a very significant difference in placement. One hypothetical example I thought of might involve a large room with two small subs positioned in the corners for maximum SPL. Let's stack the deck, and say they are PB1000's. And, even with corner loading, they are not quite able to produce the SPL you want. You are willing to put up with some boominess, and even some distortion, to get the SPL you want. So, that is their best placement in that situation.

Then, one day, you decide to go all out and replace the 1000's with PB13's or PB16's. Now, you are able to achieve the SPL you want, and you have enough headroom to play without distortion, but you are no longer willing to tolerate the boominess of much more powerful subs playing at even higher SPL's. So, what was formerly the best sub placement is no longer acceptable.

It is possible that there are similar scenarios that would involve exciting room modes differently, but I think most of the scenarios involving different subs requiring different placements, would be related more to user preference issues than to frequency response issues. In any event, it's an interesting question, but not one that should be a problem in moving from PB13's to PB16's.

Regards,
Mike
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* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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^^^:+1:^^^ another words we're saying don't do this sarantis!!
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post #1491 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 12:42 PM
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^^^:+1:^^^ another words we're saying don't do this sarantis!!
And that's about what my plug situation looks like.
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Anyone know what the CEA 2010 @ 2 meters would be for these subs?
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post #1493 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 01:11 PM
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My pb16's arrived today at magnolia! Can't wait to hook them up
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post #1494 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaF17 View Post
I recently moved and went from 2100 cubic feet to roughly 5400 cubic feet. Would one of these be enough to fill 5400 cubic feet? Also note that I have an open stairwell going to upstairs/rest of the house. See attached photo.

I am 95% movies/HDTV and 5% music. I like to "feel" the bass in my chest, chairs, etc.

Thoughts?
Hi,

Unless you are trying to listen at Reference volumes (0.0 in master volume) it isn't necessarily a matter of "filling" the space. It's more a matter of achieving the amount of bass, in sound and feel, that you want at your listening position. If the bass effect is mostly for you, then it's about the MLP (main listening position).

The PB16 is a very powerful sub which can go both low and loud, and I would recommend it to almost anyone looking for a good sub. Whether one of the PB16's would be enough for you depends on it's placement in the room (and it's distance from you), how loudly you like to listen (MV), and how much bass boost you use.

One of the nice things about buying an SVS sub is the 45-day trial period. I would probably order one of these, put some furniture sliders under it so I could move it around easily, and then test several different positions. You might try a sub crawl to find the best location for it. In general, in a big room, the closer the sub is to your listening position, the easier time it will have in producing the sound and feel you want.

I would say to give one of these a try, and if over time you find yourself wanting even more, you will be able to plan your next step. Frankly, predicting someone else's desire for bass can be a pretty dicey business, as you can see from all of the people who add more subs or who upgrade in sub size. Of course, part of that is the fact that our desire for bass is not necessarily a stationary target. As we experience more, we may find that our interests intensify.

I hope this helps!

Regards,
Mike

CEA tests for these subs have not been published yet, but Ed Mullen of SVS says to expect a +3 to +4db increase at most frequencies, compared to the PB13. I would personally expect the difference to be even greater than that below about 15Hz, but that has not been officially verified yet. They definitely do produce more ULF than the PB13's.
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.

Last edited by mthomas47; 12-02-2016 at 03:35 PM.
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post #1495 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 04:59 PM
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My pb16's arrived today at magnolia! Can't wait to hook them up
Still waiting!
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post #1496 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 05:09 PM
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Still waiting!
Just got them home they are massive. I am leaving for the bedlam game tonight so I won't get to run them until sunday
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Hi,

Unless you are trying to listen at Reference volumes (0.0 in master volume) it isn't necessarily a matter of "filling" the space. It's more a matter of achieving the amount of bass, in sound and feel, that you want at your listening position. If the bass effect is mostly for you, then it's about the MLP (main listening position).

The PB16 is a very powerful sub which can go both low and loud, and I would recommend it to almost anyone looking for a good sub. Whether one of the PB16's would be enough for you depends on it's placement in the room (and it's distance from you), how loudly you like to listen (MV), and how much bass boost you use.

One of the nice things about buying an SVS sub is the 45-day trial period. I would probably order one of these, put some furniture sliders under it so I could move it around easily, and then test several different positions. You might try a sub crawl to find the best location for it. In general, in a big room, the closer the sub is to your listening position, the easier time it will have in producing the sound and feel you want.

I would say to give one of these a try, and if over time you find yourself wanting even more, you will be able to plan your next step. Frankly, predicting someone else's desire for bass can be a pretty dicey business, as you can see from all of the people who add more subs or who upgrade in sub size. Of course, part of that is the fact that our desire for bass is not necessarily a stationary target. As we experience more, we may find that our interests intensify.

I hope this helps!

Regards,
Mike

CEA tests for these subs have not been published yet, but Ed Mullen of SVS says to expect a +3 to +4db increase at most frequencies, compared to the PB13. I would personally expect the difference to be even greater than that below about 15Hz, but that has not been officially verified yet. They definitely do produce more ULF than the PB13's.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Tapatalk
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post #1497 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 05:16 PM
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mthomas47 i have a question that may be difficult for you to answer. I'm finally a audyssey believer as when i first joined AVS and received my SB13 Ultra i went back to manual mode after not liking what it took away from my new subs performance

I'm still stubborn as after doing my sweeps and calibration i end up running all my channels hot so that i feel i dont need to go louder than -16 master volume. I'm guessing i should leave my outputs as audyssey set other than running the sub a bit hotter based on what i've read here and maxing out my master volume at 0.0?

My main question is,, today i watched (Don't Breath). Master volume was at -18 and sub channel was at -4 on my Integra. I dont know if it was the source material, but to me for the first time it sounded like my sub may have been bottoming out a little. It didn't seem really loud but just wondering if maybe there was some low content that may have been a bit much? Is -4 on the LFE and master volume at -18 too much?? Thanks.
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post #1498 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 05:37 PM
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Hmm, please let us know your initial impressions (since reviews slow to arrive) once set up and played a few sources. My 2) PB16Us got delayed and hope to get shipped Mon or Tues. Also agreed to have ultra tower package sent, while waiting on back-ordered Ultra center.

Hi, my name is Dan....and I am a bass addict! Planning initially to put these side by side, all 6 ports sealed, in the center of room so I can see the beauty and feel the air pressure (will have to get out the SPL meter) of the drivers blowing wind through my toes! As far as ideal placement, my room is not ideal, but will put my 2) PC13Us, and 2) PB13Us in the corners, running all 6 subs eventually. If house falls down, no worries...it is a rental.

System may be overboard but I like overkill. 2 pair of towers, 2 centers, 6 bookshelfs, 2 bi-directional surrounds, and 6 huge subs, all SVS. New 11 channel AVR will arrive first. Can bi-amp, and or bi-wire form another AVR if necessary.

Bass junkie, who does not want a cure. Should be a fun X-mas!
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post #1499 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by indebtbassfreak View Post
mthomas47 i have a question that may be difficult for you to answer. I'm finally a audyssey believer as when i first joined AVS and received my SB13 Ultra i went back to manual mode after not liking what it took away from my new subs performance

I'm still stubborn as after doing my sweeps and calibration i end up running all my channels hot so that i feel i dont need to go louder than -16 master volume. I'm guessing i should leave my outputs as audyssey set other than running the sub a bit hotter based on what i've read here and maxing out my master volume at 0.0?

My main question is,, today i watched (Don't Breath). Master volume was at -18 and sub channel was at -4 on my Integra. I dont know if it was the source material, but to me for the first time it sounded like my sub may have been bottoming out a little. It didn't seem really loud but just wondering if maybe there was some low content that may have been a bit much? Is -4 on the LFE and master volume at -18 too much?? Thanks.
Hi,

If I understand what you are saying, after Audyssey sets all of your channels to play at the same volume at your MLP (based on a 75db test tone) you manually increase the trim levels on all of your channels rather than just using your master volume control. Is that correct?

Part of the problem with doing that is that it makes it impossible for someone else to know what volume you are actually listening to when you say that you are at -18MV, because we don't know how much you raised your trim levels. Another problem with doing it is that DEQ will boost the bass in all of your channels, including the sub channel, by 2db for every 5db you are below Reference (0.0). But, if you have raised all of your trim levels, that boost may not be necessary, and may in fact, contribute to your sub clipping sooner than expected.

If I were you, I would re-run Audyssey (or you could just hit restore to return to the original Audyssey settings). Then watch something while raising your MV gradually and see where you are. DEQ will fall away as you approach Reference (0.0). That way you will be able to relate how much bass boost you added to your sub with your AVR trim, and what your gain level on your sub is. And, you will be able to describe your actual master volume accurately.

If your sub is starting to clip, you may need to raise the gain level, even though you are currently at -4. Ed was clear in a recent post that even a trim level in negative numbers may not keep a sub from clipping, and that is particularly true as you go above -10 in master volume. If, after all of this, it turns out that you are exceeding your sub's inherent capacity, instead of just employing the settings in a slightly improper manner, then you will at least know where you stand. At that point, it may be time for an upgrade to a more powerful sub, or to a second sub. But, right now it is difficult to tell based on the information provided.

Try what I suggested, and then let us know what happens, starting with more appropriate settings, and then reporting on your MV, sub trim, etc.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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post #1500 of 3934 Old 12-02-2016, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 300amp View Post
Hmm, please let us know your initial impressions (since reviews slow to arrive) once set up and played a few sources. My 2) PB16Us got delayed and hope to get shipped Mon or Tues. Also agreed to have ultra tower package sent, while waiting on back-ordered Ultra center.

Hi, my name is Dan....and I am a bass addict! Planning initially to put these side by side, all 6 ports sealed, in the center of room so I can see the beauty and feel the air pressure (will have to get out the SPL meter) of the drivers blowing wind through my toes! As far as ideal placement, my room is not ideal, but will put my 2) PC13Us, and 2) PB13Us in the corners, running all 6 subs eventually. If house falls down, no worries...it is a rental.

System may be overboard but I like overkill. 2 pair of towers, 2 centers, 6 bookshelfs, 2 bi-directional surrounds, and 6 huge subs, all SVS. New 11 channel AVR will arrive first. Can bi-amp, and or bi-wire form another AVR if necessary.

Bass junkie, who does not want a cure. Should be a fun X-mas!

Wow, Dan! You really are a bass junkie. Even a 12-step program might not be enough to help.

You know, if you seal all of the ports, you won't feel as much air pressure. If you want to feel the tactile effect (and the wind through your toes), I would either leave all of the ports open, or only seal one.

Regards,
Mike
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GUIDE TO SUBWOOFER CALIBRATION AND BASS PREFERENCES

* The Guide linked above is a comprehensive guide to Audio & HT systems, including:
Speaker placements & Room treatments; HT calibration & Room EQ; Room gain; Bass
Preferences; Subwoofer Buyer's Guide: Sealed/ported; ID subs; Subwoofer placement.
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